Here are a few things I learnt whilst owning a timber boat for 20 yrs. Salt water is a timber boats best friend. The salt water does not rot boats, its the fresh water that destroys them. They rot from the top down. Festool rotex 150 is a great sander. A little pricey but a hell of a sander, a great investment if you can afford it. Highly recommend it. International brand Everdure from Whitworths will become your best friend. Its a 2 part mix and sinks into wood killing rot and densifying the timber it seals out water. Norglass has something similar. Check that all your bolts and thru hulls are stainless to stainless, Bronze to Bronze. I thought I saw a stainless washer on what I think would be a copper thru bolt. Rip that off before it destroys the copper. Stainless Steel and bronze, copper, aluminium, brass will never be friends. Tru design have a composite ball valves and skin fittings which does not have a metallic signature. Do not over anode a timber boat. If you can replace the whole length of timber with rot in it do it. Otherwise cut and scarf a new piece in. That stringer with the rot in it will be a big job. Be prepared to find more rot the deeper you dig. Good luck with it and great video's Mark.
Wow, thanks Mark for the detailed advice. I'm looking at Everdure so great to see I was on the right track. Likewise, I'm conscious of the mixed metals issue, particularly stainless and that's high on my list. Totally agree with replacing timbers rather than the splicing, scarfing but some will be easier than others. Thanks again for the awesome tips and thanks for watching. James
@@Classic_Halvorsen_Restoration Altex Timbercote, you can get that from Whitworths. Look at varnish for a boat as sunscreen for people, you have to re-apply it. I would do it every 9 to 10 months, you have to do it before it cracks otherwise water gets in and its back to bare wood. So from bare wood, wipe down with Acetone then 7 coats of varnish, 1st coat 50/50 with turps so it sinks into the wood, let each coat dry, you can rub in with 320 grit. (the higher you go the flatter and better the finish) wipe down with turps let dry between coats once you have 7 coats you need to maintain that so every 9 - 10 months wash it down, give it a rub back 320 wet and dry and once dry give it 1 coat. That builds up the UVs on the varnish and will keep it looking good. It shouldn't take too long once a year but don't let it go too long otherwise the varnish will crack and it will be a massive job. That's for exterior, interior you can be a little bit lazy, a few less coats, longer time between coats as interior is mostly protected. Also, if you are using glue, use epoxy Techniglue. This stuff would have held Jesus to the cross it is that strong. You can get it from Carbatec at Auburn, Sydney Wood Industries at Mona Vale, another place that you will get to know as they do all kinds of wood and teak as well. Anything else you want to know just ask. I have been thru it all before. Mark
Isn't it amazing how a bit of spit and polish makes a difference? It looks like she's still solid, apart from that one spot, which I'm sure is a big relief to you. Thanks for sharing.
You are doing a great job! I have restored several wooden boats ranging from 30ft to 48ft., carvel, double diagonal ply, etc. re calking, steam bending, splining, etc., so I feel your pain :) I have friends here in Adelaide with a Halvorsen 25 and they are enjoying your vids as well. Keep up the good work. Cheers from Steve and Millie 'steve shier does stuff'
Thanks Steve, really appreciate the encouragement. It's labour of love but I'm slowly making progress. I've been watching your vids also. How's Dragonfly coming along? Thanks for watching. James
I know nothing about boats but I’m wondering if it would make your life a lot easier to use a wet/dry vac? You could really soak the dirt and suck it up quickly? It would clean all the nooks and crannies easier by flushing it out.
@Classic_Halvorsen_Restoration Penetrol can be used on any material to stop corrosion and rot. It is the perfect primer for oil based paints. Penetrol is formulated to wick deep into wood grain, sealing out moisture. Again, it is not to be used below water. Penetrol can be purchased at Bunnings. I undercoated my new bare metal reconditioned engine before overcoating eleven years ago and the finish still looks new. Cheers
Here are a few things I learnt whilst owning a timber boat for 20 yrs. Salt water is a timber boats best friend. The salt water does not rot boats, its the fresh water that destroys them. They rot from the top down. Festool rotex 150 is a great sander. A little pricey but a hell of a sander, a great investment if you can afford it. Highly recommend it. International brand Everdure from Whitworths will become your best friend. Its a 2 part mix and sinks into wood killing rot and densifying the timber it seals out water. Norglass has something similar. Check that all your bolts and thru hulls are stainless to stainless, Bronze to Bronze. I thought I saw a stainless washer on what I think would be a copper thru bolt. Rip that off before it destroys the copper. Stainless Steel and bronze, copper, aluminium, brass will never be friends. Tru design have a composite ball valves and skin fittings which does not have a metallic signature. Do not over anode a timber boat. If you can replace the whole length of timber with rot in it do it. Otherwise cut and scarf a new piece in. That stringer with the rot in it will be a big job. Be prepared to find more rot the deeper you dig. Good luck with it and great video's
Mark.
Wow, thanks Mark for the detailed advice. I'm looking at Everdure so great to see I was on the right track. Likewise, I'm conscious of the mixed metals issue, particularly stainless and that's high on my list. Totally agree with replacing timbers rather than the splicing, scarfing but some will be easier than others. Thanks again for the awesome tips and thanks for watching.
James
What do you recommend as a good varnish?
@@Classic_Halvorsen_Restoration Altex Timbercote, you can get that from Whitworths. Look at varnish for a boat as sunscreen for people, you have to re-apply it. I would do it every 9 to 10 months, you have to do it before it cracks otherwise water gets in and its back to bare wood. So from bare wood, wipe down with Acetone then 7 coats of varnish, 1st coat 50/50 with turps so it sinks into the wood, let each coat dry, you can rub in with 320 grit. (the higher you go the flatter and better the finish) wipe down with turps let dry between coats once you have 7 coats you need to maintain that so every 9 - 10 months wash it down, give it a rub back 320 wet and dry and once dry give it 1 coat. That builds up the UVs on the varnish and will keep it looking good. It shouldn't take too long once a year but don't let it go too long otherwise the varnish will crack and it will be a massive job. That's for exterior, interior you can be a little bit lazy, a few less coats, longer time between coats as interior is mostly protected.
Also, if you are using glue, use epoxy Techniglue. This stuff would have held Jesus to the cross it is that strong. You can get it from Carbatec at Auburn, Sydney Wood Industries at Mona Vale, another place that you will get to know as they do all kinds of wood and teak as well.
Anything else you want to know just ask. I have been thru it all before.
Mark
Nice work! I am one of those who also wants his boat hull interiors clean. The best part is that allows to perform a complete inspection.
Thanks Luis, it's a lot of work cleaning years of dirt out but it does let you see what you're dealing with. Thanks for watching.
Isn't it amazing how a bit of spit and polish makes a difference? It looks like she's still solid, apart from that one spot, which I'm sure is a big relief to you. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, you're right. It's the small jobs like cleaning that makes you feel you're moving forward.
You are doing a great job! I have restored several wooden boats ranging from 30ft to 48ft., carvel, double diagonal ply, etc. re calking, steam bending, splining, etc., so I feel your pain :) I have friends here in Adelaide with a Halvorsen 25 and they are enjoying your vids as well. Keep up the good work. Cheers from Steve and Millie 'steve shier does stuff'
Thanks Steve, really appreciate the encouragement. It's labour of love but I'm slowly making progress. I've been watching your vids also. How's Dragonfly coming along? Thanks for watching.
James
@@Classic_Halvorsen_Restoration Really well thanks James, I am currently working on the 'poo' tank hahaha at least it is a new one.
I know nothing about boats but I’m wondering if it would make your life a lot easier to use a wet/dry vac? You could really soak the dirt and suck it up quickly? It would clean all the nooks and crannies easier by flushing it out.
Yeah, I thought about that but I wanted to keep the moisture down on the exposed timber. Thanks for the suggestion though and thanks for watching.
Paint with Penetrol. This stuff is not just a suface finish but as the name says penetrates, not for underwater use.
Thanks, you mean the rot section or the whole hull?
@Classic_Halvorsen_Restoration Penetrol can be used on any material to stop corrosion and rot. It is the perfect primer for oil based paints. Penetrol is formulated to wick deep into wood grain, sealing out moisture. Again, it is not to be used below water. Penetrol can be purchased at Bunnings. I undercoated my new bare metal reconditioned engine before overcoating eleven years ago and the finish still looks new. Cheers
@@AquaMarine1000 Awesome thanks. I'll check it out.