7.3 POWERSTROKE Injection Control Pressure Sensor (ICP) for ...
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- 7.3 POWERSTROKE Injection Control Pressure Sensor (ICP) EXPLANATION / TESTING / LOCATION ///////////BONUS MATERIAL
Injection Injector Control Pressure ICP
amzn.to/3MEno3l
#customworks
#icp
#sensor
#7.3powerstroke
#oilleak
#powerstroke
#valleyoilleak
#sensor
#whitesmoke
#idle
#losspower
#vgg
#scotty
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Great video! Love it that you show the parts and what you need to replace the parts! Keepem comming!
Thank you sir. I have been chasing a rough idle/surging issue since I got 30% over injectors installed a couple weeks ago and it turns out the ICP sensor pigtail was full of oil. Cleaned it right up and running smooth now! I appreciate your detailed breakdown and common causes section.
You are right with the OEM sensors. Just had a guy who tried a auto parts store IPR. With in a day it left him on the side of the road. Never had a issue with a motorcraft and I have installed dozens over the years.
Clint, I only see one link for a IPC sensor. You said there is 2. Also it seems like your forgetting about the guys that have a OBD 1, 94-96 model. Really like your Attitude.
great content, informative, technical and witty.
bless you America 🇺🇸 good video from NJ this family of Guatemala 🇬🇹 I, send my like 👍🏼
On the harness connector at the left valve cover, if you take the mounting bracket off and put the tab on the bracket in a vise and bent the tab up that the engine harness slides into that will prevent the harness chaffing.
Good advice thanks!!
You bet!
Wish I came across your videos earlier!!! Rant warning from a new owner of an old 2000 7.3 Excursion. Had slow starting, rough idle, but no CEL... Replaced with a "highly rated" sensor from Amazon F6TZ-9F838-A and it lasted about 2 days before the o-ring gave out and blew oil all over the engine compartment... but even before that, something was weird with the fueling and the exhaust was almost unbearably stinky. I got another o-ring which lasted a few miles... used the spare o-ring that I purchased "just in case" and it blew out again. Hobbled to into the next auto parts store and picked up some green a/c o-rings which lasted until we could get to an Auto Zone store that had a replacement sensor in stock. The black o-rings don't last at all! In a pinch - use the green a/c o-ring if you can't find any of the orange ones. I later found out that the sensor is supposed to bottom out metal to metal with the o-ring squished the proper amount. This (not so cheap) Amazon sensor completely tightened down on the o-ring and damaged it... I was only using a socket (no handle or ratchet) and tightening lightly. It sealed well upon start-up but blew out within minutes. It looked right and seemed right, but the design was just different enough to cause it to completely fail every time... not to mention the wrong o-ring to begin with. The Auto Zone sensor with an orange o-ring solved both the stinky exhaust issue and sealed well. It lasted a few hundred miles before internally failing (thankfully not spraying down the engine with oil again!) The engine was running ok and then suddenly died running down the highway at 65 mph... Pulled over and unplugged the Auto Zone sensor and it fired right up. I ended up purchasing the International / Navistar sensor through a reputable diesel parts site and it finally arrived today... hoping it lasts a lot longer than the last two pieces of garbage!!! So instead of spending $150 one time, I spent over $200 in crap sensors and about 3 extra hours on a family road trip with some worried kiddos before (hopefully) purchasing the correct one! Good luck out there! If this one fails, I will add to my comment and try one of the sensors on the Custom Works list.
Heard tell of a scan tool video in the future. Definitely looking forward to that one. I’m looking for the scan tool that has the best bang for the buck.
Hey guys, I just bought my dream truck, and I'm getting her tuned in. Was 1st directed to the fuel filter, then fuel filter heating element (relates to the lack of Wait to Start light) and now onto these sensors. Each little repair makes her run better. Honestly, she ran great in the first place, but I'm pretty conscious of mechanical stuff even though I'm a bookkeeper 😂. With all your help and videos like this, I keep her on the road and tuned up before she breaks down. In this case, a slight vibration with lack of power at 40mph and 1500rpm and a few Ford enthusiasts chat sites and I'm a grease monkey too!!! ❤❤
Did you ever figure out what caused it? Mine has the same issue currently around 40 mph it seems to vibrate and rough idle
I ordered the Ford icp sensor you recommended from Amazon and it is for 6.0 powerstroke. I attempted to install it and the threads were different. You should take that part number off UA-cam. I do like your videos.
now with the new alternator and the intake pre heater disconnected i can drive the truck to work but it don't go over 50 mph unless it is warmed up and in fifth gear or sixth gear going downhill.
I love your videos. I have a problem with my 03 7.3 driving down the road. Give it a little throttle in town and the check engine light comes on for just a couple minutes and gives me a code. P1211. I’ve checked my IPR percentage, it’s at maybe 40% and the psi gets up to about 5000 have not checked fuel pressure yet wondering if that may be what it is doesn’t do it all the time first time was after oil cooler reseal then again a little over a month later passing a car starts up great hot and cold can feel a little rough idle but other than that it’s a great truck
Great video. Looks like I'm going shopping for sensors after I put my excursion in my name
oh boy a fresh 7.3 excursion.... nothin better.. ENJOY!
Mine started with an idle surge then it started bucking then it started cutting off now the cel just comes and goes and when it do the revs drop. I see my icp sits at 729psi untill i rev the engine
well i felt like it was the FICM so i got a used one from a 2002 and installed it. now the truck starts fine and has power. however there is some vibration. i'm thinking one or more cylinders have a bad injector or something. could i be running on 5 or 6 or 7 cylinders instead of all 8? vibration is not as noticeable at 2000 rpm. I towed a 1979 GMC C20 long bed about 20 miles this morning with no problem at all. I just kept it under 50 mph and stayed in fifth gear most of the time. the GMC was on a U-haul trailer.
I just changed all the Orings on my injectors and then the ICP crapped out. P1280 code. Light came on and now when it starts it’s rough idle till it warms up. Ordered a new Ford ICP which will be here Monday. Looking foreword to getting it back to normsk
Sir I took my 2003 F250 to O'Reilly Auto Parts today and they scanned my computer. I also had Autozone test my batteries and charging system. I learned a few things...
well i replaced the alternator today. before i replaced it the voltage was 12.44 with the truck off and also with the truck running. after it was 13.22 with the truck running.
ok so i have other problems. no power rough idle or truck dies when starting cold. i learned that if i hold down the accelerator pedal it is less likely to die when starting cold. I drove the truck today 20 miles to town. once warmed up you can get 50mph or better in 5th gear(it is a six speed) but low power.
O'Reilly codes are P0678, P0677 (Glow plug circuit), P1247 Turbo Boost Pressure Low, and P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected.
i still think it's the icp sensor but not sure.
13.22 is not good, at the alternator after start wait 2 minutes it should be 13.8 to 14.8 usually 14.2 or 3 There is a heavy draw, a poss ground issue or short to ground or your relay in the cluster is shorting or the security is shorting under the dash , glow plug relay shorting , glow plug wire or glow plug short The engine isn't running correct so it will throw false codes The codes below can also be caused by UVC wire short or a injector short
I just did this job. Even after taking the alternator off I couldn't get a good grab at that nut. Was too tight and the wrench wanted to open. I ended up cutting the top off with a Sawzall and was easily able to get it off with a deep well socket.
You can use a pry bar against the alternator and a shortish wrench to get it loose if you hold your tongue right. YMMV
I already changed the icp. But I am having trouble finding out what all the different sensors are and I’m working on the 7.3 Van. So it’s hard to find any info. Do you know what sensor sits directly in front of the fuel filter? It is single prong
Thanks for your great 7.3 tech videos....can you go into detail on how to test for 5 volts and how to test the old one/new one? Thanks Ron
future video's will go in depth on testing when we start our hands on series
My fuel acceleration pressure sensor keeps going out ,put new one in i have full pedal but last a day n out again whyis that
Again I owe you a thanks I wanted to ask a question I just recently did quite a bit to my 2001 7.3 I ordered the high pressure oil lines you suggested from cr performance with the cross over line also installed two new banjo bolts riff raff also from riff raff was the frx kit also diesel fuel line SS HOSE KIT ALSO A BOOST FOOLER SO I NOTICED THAT THE TRUCK SEEMS A LOT QUITTER BUT ALSO WAS WONDERING IF IT TAKES TIME FOR THE CPU TO ADJUST TO THE NEW EVERYTHING THANKS AGAIN BROTHER SORRY SO MUCH from Albuquerque
Yes it can Yet its odd,,, So I have 14 7.3's in my fleet for One of my business's The 2 dually's That I only drive one is mostly stock has the upgrades I've discussed it always takes a few weeks for it to come around and be happy and then its clear sailing with no problems The other dually I rebuilt frame up and no tuner it pushes 900 hp that's before the meth fogger and the CPU never has to ease into further upgrades nor do the other fleet truck so it happens The first dually always get fussy when I work with the hpo system it always takes a few days to stop the idle fluctuation Also never rule out bad parts over half of the new parts we use in the Custom Works shop have to be sent back non function right out of the box
Hi! Thanks a lot for your videos , I’m having a strange problem , only in Sumer conditions when the truck is hot I don’t have all the power until I accelerate and accelerate and accelerate and in the final sometimes feel good the engine like the turbo sound good , before that it’s sound rough, can you Help me ?
This is something that I would need to hook up to the computer to monitor who is being the bad boy , try forscan app and amzn.to/3VojgHR Set your self up to monitor PIDS IPR ICP VOLTAGE CAM sensor Oil pressure Then shoot a guy back
I have a stunner for you, when at idle i disconect the icp wire truck dies, all new sensors, injectors and wire harness, slow to fire off even just a few seconds after turning it off, hpop res not draining no code reader oil pressure drop fast after shut down. 😢
😊
Cuestión have 2003 f250 7.3 code p0603
bought one from orielY's and bucking down the road I thought I would never make it ,I was in the middle of no where SD MDE IT BUT NEVER AGAIN
Hi Clint 👋 you are a king of the 7.3👏👏😃👍👍I was wondering about this sensor!! I have a 2001excursión 7.3 and this sensor starts leaking oíl exactly on electric connector!! exactly like on your vedeo show!! I buying a iCP from "rockauto" and is not the same 🤔 looks like a thread not the same 🤔 on my oldest sensor put:(987329/C91031) I don't finding any sensor similar like this 😏😑 if I buying the sensor you have on your vedeo description it's fit on this engine?? I appreciate your helpful and your caind attention 👏👏👌👍 the original FORD have a ref: F6TZ-9F838-A if I buying this! that's a really original for this engine?? thanks mate 👍 cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 👍 have a great day 👍
i've been driving my truck 16 miles to work. if i let it warm up i can go 50mph or faster in fifth gear with no problems. it's a six sped manual. sometimes i can drive in sixth gear but any hill kills the speed. i don't know if it is a wiring harness, icp or ipr. i does not surge but does kind of knock when idling especially when cold. it won't start and idle cold unless i depress the accelerator pedal first. if i press the gas pedal down before trying to start then it will run and not die.
well it was surging a little this morning while i was letting it warm up before attempting to drive 16 miles to work. it won't go over 1000 or 1500 rpm when cold but after holding down the accelarator and letting it warm up then it will go to 2000 or 2500. i hold down the gas pedal to help it warm up sometimes. when i get paid in a few days i would like to buy the sensor or maybe just let the shop scan it with their computer for 100 bucks. i do have a volt meter.
@@dolinick Its very difficult to diagnosis over messages But now I see your electrics are at there normal range I would look at the IPR I have a video that is very detailed take it apart and clean it and test the solenoid then see if that corrects the issue if all good on the testing next rent a pressure tester for oil 0 to 5000 and hook it up to the head inlet(oil rail) there are several on top of the head each side and see if while starting you get over 500 and 700 at idle and how much at 60mph let me know on that Plus the other ideas like UVCH
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD sir this morning i started the truck and let it idle for about 30 minutes when i got off from work. it won't go over 10 mph when cold. and i recorded some audio of it running after warm up. then i tested it by turning on the ac and fan on high and turning on the headlights. when i turned on the fan on high the rpms dropped down to about 600 or 625 from i forgot 750 or a little less. then when i turned off the fan it went up and then down and up again. it's noisy when starting cold and kind of noisy when warmed up. i'm gonna try and troubleshoot it moar on my day off wednesday. clean the oil off of everything with some brake cleaner or something and pull the icp plug. it runs fine but low power 16 miles to and from work. accelerates slowly. my work may have a scanner we run late model mack trucks.
um, i've owned this truck 5 years or something and i drove it from 116k miles to 225k miles and only changed the oil 3 times. sometimes i drive it from texas to Dalton Georgia and Washington DC or from San Antonio, Texas to Central New york. i might have driven it to florida once. i mean i have done these trips only once each. in Hagerstown Maryland a couple years ago we diagnosed the intake heater was killing my batteries so we disconnected it. then when i tried to drive back to texas the upper um boot ripped and i drove home with no turbo. it ran better with no boost than it is running now. the local autp parts yard has an old 7.3 i may get the icp off of. is 1994-2003 icp gonna work on my 2003?
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD rent a pressure tester. ah, ok. i just got off work. i worked 39 hours in 3 days at night in the oilfield. :)
hey i just replaced batteries, idm, and cps. still crank no start. i got the p0603 code through my edge does that mean i need a pcm??
That code is usually a faulty or corrupt tune in the pcm do you have a tuner ? if so get it out If not there is a faulty PCM or IDM program fault you could try a pcm reset with a bidirectional scanner if the fault comes right back then a new PCM is in order
That damn video of homer simspon workin on their station wagon jacked up while bart films him and barts kicking the car trying to make the car fall on homer cracks me up! My youngest son might try some shit like this thats why i work alone and use two othe safety jacks and my excursion is high anyway so im good , just gotta watch out for those evil kids man!
Question, 1996 f-350 7.3 below 50 degrees crank no start, until I plug it in and warm the black, or until I hit it with a small shot of ether. What would thank is the cause. Thanks, Mark Cooper. A text would be good for me.
I keep notes in my repair logs The highest prob would be PCM/ECM IPR ICP Fuel pressure tired hpop Best is to have a start and running diagnostic most small diesel shops would do this and it only takes a hour in labor
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you!
Clint after 8 months do you still recommend these after market sensors? I've got a P1280 code. I'll check wiring for the 5 volt reference but do you know what the other 2 wires should reading KOEO or KOER?
file:///C:/Users/Admin/Downloads/2000%20PCED%20Pinpoint%20Test%20DC%20Intro.pdf
You can Back-Probe the ICP using a "T" Pin and use a DVOM to view the Voltage.
ICP: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 1.0 vdc @ 580 psig, and 3.22volts @ 2520 psig.
ICP Vdc
(psi)
0 0.2
200 0.4
400 0.73
600 0.96
800 1.2
1000 1.4
1200 1.6
1400 1.9
1600 2.1
1800 2.3
2000 2.6
2200 2.8
2400 3.0
2600 3.3
2800 3.5
3000 3.8
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Good info thanks. Do you still recommend after 8 months or should I go with OEM?
@@flmeade Most poor sensors would have failed by now so I would see no reason to change it There are a hand full of companies that do mfg products to exact oem So if you are running good go keep it
Besides the code the truck has a long crank to start an after running the idle will surge up to 1000 rpm and then back to normal idle.
Back probed the ICP and got these voltages.
KOEO. Idle. 1000rpm. 2000rpm
Blu/grn .34. .9 1.27. 2.0
Gry/red .027. .027. .012. .031
Brown/white 5.02
Does that seem normal.
I clicked on the link to amazon icp sensor. Description said for a 6.0 Is that what I should put in my 7.3??
they are one in the same but old links have been updated thanks for heads up !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope you see this comment soon I went and bought a new sensor and the new plug-in I rewired it exactly like it was taken off and it's hard to start and has an engine code automatically now what should I do
So mine is surging when I come to a stop. Or at idle. If I put it in drive it goes away. If I unplug the ICP it idles fine… does that mean it’s messed up
ICP IPR or bad connector or wire should be your issue with the information you have given
I have a 1995 XLT f250 7.3 what scanner works for it? I have yet to find one that works. It does have the OBD2 port not the port in the eng bay.
You need an OBD1 scanner. OBD2 is for 1996 and newer.
@@stevedresen8497 as far as I know the OBD1 port is in the eng bay drivers side behind the fuse box and I don't have that in my truck. Mine is under the dash on the messenger side. My OBD2 scanner plugs into it but doesn't read anything (I didn't get my OBD2 scanner for the 1995 truck I got it for my families cars)
We are working on a scanner video testing all kinds of products so far I know you need to find a scanner that is ford f2 rated
@@jacobn516 I've tried my OBD2 cable with forscan and was never able to communicate with a 95 PCM.
Question- ICP has 3 wires coming from it. One wire shows 5v but the other two shows nothing. Is that normal? Both pig tail and sensor was bought at a Ford dealer and is new. I tested while key on and while running as well. Truck runs rough and at idle. Thoughts?
There are 3 wires going to the ICP.
1. 5v reference voltage: Should ALWAYS have 5v on it
2. Signal Return: This varies from about 1v to 4v
3. Signal Ground: Should be a direct short to ground. No voltage
1280 = Signal voltage was less than .039 volts for more than .2 seconds.
1281 = Signal voltage was greater than 4.90 volts for more than .2 seconds.
1212 = Signal above 1.625 volts with engine off. (1160 psi, 8 MPa)
Will there ever be a part 2 of the caliber?
Sadly the caliber a week after that show was made met a end from the next door shop where my storage yard is That shop had a fire and took the life of 7 vehicles including 2 Ford OBS 7.3 psd's even though insurance made good we first found a new OBS to replace one of them just 1 week ago so we can start our hands on series We are still looking for a 99.5 and up to replace the 2000 7.3 that got 1/2 cremated
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD so it doestnt work?
@@YSTYoshiOfficial we had it running but it now a burnt out shell
Also you forgot to mention the wrench size...if it is the original sensor it will be 9/16" (or 14mm); if aftermarket or new one from Ford it will be 1 1/16". A deep socket will not work, you need to use a wrench.
We didn,t forget , We feel for something as simple as this, One should be able to figure that out if not should stay away from wrenching
Original is 16mm just did mine today
hello. i've been busy working and haven't worked on my truck but i am drving it to work. today after it was warmed up and i drove several miles i stopped for fuel. i press the accelerator pedal down and turn the key. it surges really high to 2000 rpm very quickly. not sure that means anything. it idles rough but runs great. low power. it's pretty flat here but i can go 55 in fifth gear. it just takes a long time to accelerate. if i'm going down a small hill i can grab sixth gear. always WOT(wide open throttle) while driving though. it's a six speed manual. i was gonna try and get an icp at the auto salvage yard from an older truck. not sure i can afford to buy the new one this week but i don't even know it is the icp yet. the mechanic at work will scan it for me if i get there when his shift ends. i might can borrow his personal scanner. i think you said i need to to a pressure test. i may go into town tomorrow and get some brake clean or whatever. so much oil and dirt on top of the engine. but i filled up the tank today for the first time in months. put 30 gallons in. $107 dolla. i have to let the truck warm up for 20 minutes or it's not driveable. only goes 8 mph. it was around 75 degrees this morning and very humid.
i can get to almost 70 mph if slight down grade. also i'm still driving without a clutch. i learned how to float the gears pretty well. i think my master/slave clutch assembly went bad. i start the truck in low gear and it's pretty easy to drive without a clutch pedal once you practice a bit. i would drive a semi truck without a clutch no problem. i'm a truck driver. but now i drive an automatic MACK truck. you never have to take your hands off the steering wheel. it has wipers, high beams, engine brake, radio controls and blueteeth phone controls right on the steering wheel. turn signals... good air conditioning. also both driver and passenger windows roll down automatically if you press the switch down all the way. i usually open the windows when coming to an intersection and red traffic light or making a turn or driving in a parking lot/drive way. backing up... i drive nights so also roll them down to get rid of the glare on the glass.
97 7.3 will start and run for about 10 minutes then die.. wait 10 minutes and start.. replaced IPR and sensor.. fuel bowl and hoses.
cali model has a fuel pulsation damper screwed into fuel Y to lift pump. could that be leaking fuel?
Always good to hear some GREAT ADVICE especially with all the morons driving around with their huge end tail pipe and mirrors at full extension just saying hahaha don’t know why but come on are you trying to stretch out something lol 😂 great video as always thanks from Albuquerque NM
Right on
Will Farrel is a mechanic? Da f?
How bout cutting the intro in half.
Don't you know how to work the fast forward? Let him have his persona.
I have a 97 f250 heavy duty 7.3L powerstoke. My icp sensor had oil in it cleaned it, cleaned wire plug connector ran good, then stopped bought new one n doesn't run well. Do u know Why? fuel acceleration regulator sensor goes out in a day after putting new one in.wĥy is that happening? Please help I need this truck to run good to get to work only vehicle I have n can't be buying same part over,over again I don't have a lot of money to keep doing this. Love this truck n don't want to sell it!!! 4dr,manual really clean inside cab NICE!!!! might have to trade for another 4dr,3/4 ton truck automatic, gas if I can't figure this diesel engine out
What codes are in the ecm? when the accelerator goes out. are you replacing parts with ford oem ? when peddle goes out what is the voltage in the wires koeo and running as far as wire harness riff raff diesel , amazon, ebay fairway ford has them sometimes you need to buy one close and add the extra temp sensor at the pass side of the block
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD code thing doesn't work.i replaced them both with auto zone parts.when the fuel acceleration regulator sensor goes out I have half peddle and icp engine runs high n goes nowhere fast I'm gonna have to go to Ford dealership and get them 2 parts when I save more money for them I almost cut thumb off n out of work for almost 2wks already out of extra money now
ua-cam.com/video/ZSc89hMbOV8/v-deo.html