Get 10% OFF SUNPOWER Semi-Flexible solar panels (like the ones in the video) at SunPoweredYachts.com with the "RVWITHTITO" discount code. Check current prices at www.sunpoweredyachts.com/shop.
@@jeannie8262 Hi Jeannie. Have you seen this video? ua-cam.com/video/aB8ic6x9DAM/v-deo.html. This is how I do it. I can add new holes for more cable glands as needed. Right now I have 4. Hope that helps.
Genius idea! I am just an hour away from installing my flexible solar panel, but now I have to run to the hardware store. Thanks for saving me from making the mistake of gluing my panel directly to the roof!
Excellent solution for: 1. Stealth install with a very low profile. 2. Air flow to cool the panels and water drainage. 3. No holes in the roof. 4. Front of panel secured to prevent air sailing. This type of install will extend the life of the panel.
Most panels fail due to the abuse that UV radiation can dish out. Adhering directly to metal can actually act as a heat sink yet with a quality panel...heat is not an issue. BTW...stealth is a lost art. Law enforcement and concerned citizens are usually supported by the latest ordinances to prevent anyone to stealth camp in many, if not most, neighborhoods and business districts. It was easy in the 80's and 90's...nowadays...not so much. I recomends getting out of the cities onto public land. Its wonderful.
Thanks for sharing. I like that you have a written summary in your notes. I also like that you did not have to cut into your van to mount the flex panels.
I used this method to install my 3 flexible solar panels three years ago and about 20k miles and it has served me well. My corrugated plastic has begun to get brittle and will need replacement but this worked and worked well.
I don't think that I would have cut out around the heads of the carriage bolts. They will compress up when tightened and leave the double thickness for strength. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Exactly what I was thing. Just use a flat top carriage bolt instead of round top and a washer. Slap a piece of tape over it to keep metal from rubbing the rubber roof.
Awesome video, personally I would use elevator bolts. Maybe epoxy them to the roof as well. Also remember if you are using ANY stainless to use anti-seize or STL to prevent galling. If you line up the wing nuts forward to back before you set them to the roof all you have to do is take a quick look on top to see if any wing nuts have turned off of the forward to rearward orientation. Nice job!!
A slot cut in the threaded end of the bolts, would be a good idea. Then if they ever spin in the hole, you could hold them with a screwdriver when you take the nut off.
I really like the idea of being able to easily change out the panel at a later date and no holes drilled in the roof. I will definately use this method.
I just recently completed installing 6 of the Sunpower 100w flexible panels on my travel trailer using this method and I like how everything turned out. I will definitely report back after I hit the road for a couple months. I opted for elevator bolts as others have suggested. Excited to hit the road next month. Thanks Brian for the inspiration!!
BRILLIANT! I have a fiberglass high top that I wouldn't want to drill holes through, this is a great low-cost and low-tech solution. The corrugated plastic panels also go by the name Coroplast. The aluminum piece looks like the z-flashing I used to join the 4x8 panels on the outside of my shed.
I'm not even into RV'ing and so far I enjoy your videos. I watched one video just to gather info about lithium batteries. Now this is the 3rd video I've watched from your channel tonight. 👍
I was skeptical about how you were going to make it stay on the roof without any drilling. I was pleased to see that it looks very secure. Your real world test has proven your system to be successful. Great job!
I already bought my flexible, solar panel. I already have portable ones and I drive a minivan which I created into a little camper. I love your idea here I didn’t want to put the tape all the way around it and that gives me some great ideas especially with that that barrier you put between the solar panel and the RV!!
Brian, I always love how you think outside the box and come up with something brilliant. I'm still in awe of your solar canopies but this goes beyond that. I imagine this will be a game changer for the solar community wanting the lighter weight panels. Kudos to you for your genius ideas.
Wow I have been racking my brain to figure out how to install panels on fiberglass. So excited to cross you path.... best solution I’ve seen so far... I think I have a winner. Thank you 😊
@Teresa Noel You need an air gap under solar panels to keep them cool so they don't overheat and fail. Rigid panel are the way to go. You should not puncture the roof to mount them. Use adhesive to mount ABS blocks that hold the rigid panels. See www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYPFSGJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07RYPFSGJ
That looks like a pretty nice solution. I've been considering adding a solar panel to the top of my pop-up camper and I might use this method. However, I would probably use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts. Elevator bolts usually have a larger, flatter, head so you wouldn't have to cut out material to accommodate the carriage bolt head. You can also find elevator bolts with spike grippers under the head that would help keep them from spinning.
TY Tito... I'm about to put some budget flexible panels on the roof of my rig and you just saved me a lot of time and headache when one inevitably needs to be replaced.
I am so thankful I found you! I'll be bringing my first RV home in just a couple more weeks. Class C 32 ft. Beyond excited. I'm hooked on your videos. Your work, patience and craftsmanship is impeccable! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and AWESOME ideas! Happy camping! 😁
Finally, a way to mount safely and securely yet easily replace panels as needed and take them off should you sell your unit! Recently I've seen a couple of used class 'A' RV's all decked out with solar. I just can't imagine putting all that money into a system and then leaving it all and having to do it all over again on the new rig! Now I'm willing to start planning a solar setup for our 5th wheel. I got your solar guide too, thank you so much!
if you copy this design, before installing it, cut screwdriver slots in the ends of the carriage bolts, just in case they try and rotate when you remove the PV panels then you can use a screw driver to stop the carriage bolt from spinning
Wikipedia adds: Corriboard - also known under the tradenames of Cartonplast®, Polyflute, Coroplast, FlutePlast, IntePro, Proplex, Correx, Twinplast, Corriflute or Corflute. Wish I could find the affordable version. Its kinda spendy.
@@ravendon Missing the point, getting heat away from the flexible panel with the core flute is the best thing as that's a major problem that shortens flexible panels life span dramatically...
Nicely done. Great minds think alike. I did a similar mount simpler still. Cut a 4" diameter circle of Eternabond tape and then put a 3/8" hole in the middle. Use that to tape 5/16" x 1" big headed elevator bolts to the trailer roof. Cut a circle of plastic milk bottle to keep the bolt head from scratching the roof. Then bolt the panels down with Coroplast backing. I've got about 5,000 miles on it so far with good result.
Excellent! Just what I needed to see. This was my idea too but nice to see it materialize. I have some Lexan Polycarbonate panels which are more UV resistant and shatter resistant than Coroplast but pricier. If you can get used ones from a greenhouse...! They are slightly more raised. On Cheap RV Living, this guy uses tubular aluminum and mounts panels to that, but I think they still need a Coroplast backing to stiffen them up. The tubular aluminum is useful if you have a domed roof and acts like a mini rack. Your idea of chopping up the tile edging to use as brackets is brilliant and saves money. Use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts for a flat not curved surface. I think cutting away at that Coroplast was not smart as it will degrade faster with the wind shear forces. The elevator bolt will compress the plastic enough to sink in. I think you absolutely nailed it on the flex mounting. Everyone should follow this example. If you had a roof rack, this could also be mounted on the rack and that might be easier to replace for maintenance, but this is a simple, elegant solution to this pesky problem. I'm really grateful! Many thanks, Tito! I have 4 to mount. I was worried about having to add a deflector but with that front strip of metal on each one, problem solved. No wind shear issues. I see that the hollow tube section of the Coroplast is facing side to side. Initially I thought it should face front to rear for good airflow under the panels to keep them cool, then realized the wind shear would be too strong that way, so side to side is more than enough wind getting redirected to there. Superb. I would add a dab of Dicor self leveling lap sealant on top of every tightened up, Loctite'd wing nut. Now it is truly waterproof, corrosion proof and also insulated against heat. Also viewers - use stainless steel hardware all the way. Pro tip - I used a Wagner heat gun (cheapest brand) to heat up Dicor when I have to remove it. It comes off so easily. Use a flat blade putty knife and a heat gun when you have to remove those wing nuts, it really is a breeze. I see that Eternabond tape also loosens up with a heat gun. You made a video on that too. Your info is so practical and applicable. Very useful videos! Q: 1:39 - What sort of wire loom (wire cover) did you use on the roof for the cords from solar panels? It looks white, and is probably heat reflective and insulated so the wiring stays cool. I'd love to know if its anything special?
I noticed the plastic corrugations run width wise not length wise on your panel. I had to "rewind" the video to verify as I thought sealing up the front edge would block any air flow if the corrugations ran front to back. I made a PVC awning/portable mount using your previous video. Thank you for that. And boy, those panels get HOT in direct sunlight.
The front edge is covered by the aluminium piece so front to back orientation wouldn't work. The side orientation is also for proper drainage since the panels are on a very slight downward side angle.
Panel heating has been the demise of many a panel made with the wrong materials. Do some research and you will find panels that can take tremendous heat and still have most of their output after 10-15 or even 20 years. I have a Uni-Solar panel that is 13 years old... very little degredation. My neighbor has had all his panels (four identical from the same manufacturer) die within 3 years. He went the lesser quality route. They were beautiful panels but the materials just did not hold up well. I have a total of 13 amorphous panels that all look about the same as when I bought them yet were never fancy looking. They are also larger than the equivilant crystaline panels so more real estate is needed.
This is for all you RV goers... Hehehe, the only trick i came up with... I have hooked my "hot water" side of the sink tap to the external water inlet so that i can use the external water and save the one from my tank just by swinging the handle towards the hot water... It might be helpful to someone with a simpler set up like myself! GREAT VIDEO thanks so much for posting it.... The only thing i would do differently would be to run the front tape only dead aligned with the edge of the floor transition strip edges and i would cut a 'U' shaped notch to house the front bolts so that if i want to remove the solar panel i could just easily flip the aluminium transition up as these panels don't last a super long time in good working order.
One of my two panels flew off my van using this method, going 80mph down a highway in high winds. Panels were mounted horizontally across the roof, one in front of the other (that's one point of difference; these are mounted "vertically" down the length of the roof). I also didn't attach that transition strip to the back panel, the one that flew off, so maybe that's what did it in. Panel was still attached to the corrugated plastic when it flew off. But I can't risk trying this method again. Not sure why no one else seems to have had problems.
Seriously Brian. This is the best flex panel install anywhere I've seen. I'm going to install mine exactly the same. BTW>That corrugated plastic panel is called "'Coreflute"'.
Really nice setup and even though the semi-rigid panels are more expensive and potentially more problematic I definitely prefer the much lower profile appearance versus the rigid panels which can be a bit of an eyesore with multiple panels installed. Thanks for the time and effort it took to put this presentation together.
Just finished installing 4 HQST 100w panels using the plastic cardboard method shown on this video and everything went great. Thanks to this video I am now set up for off grid very well.. Thank you Tito your videos are great and it gave me the confidence I needed to do it without drilling. No thread lock tight and I’m sure I don’t need it.
What I like the best is that they can be removed and installed only when your leaving for a trip and plan on boon docking. An excellent, low wear on panels idea.
Nice work , one comment . Drilling thin small pieces of a sharp things will send you to the first aid box or the emergency room. I speak from experience. Now that flexible panels have improved (may 3 2021) I am revisiting flexible panels for my ordered Rv coming .my new ordered rig comes with a wopping 100 watts . So I am back watching your videos again for ideas. Thank you.
This is wonderful solution. I was looking hard at the tubing you installed your panel cables through....would love to see more on that portion of the installation. We are running a 2019 Ford Transit conversion and I have 2 panels to cable and am struggling over making it "look" somewhat good.
Wow, you've done it again. A very well thought out and executed DIY install. Nearly genius. If I can only overcome the fear of that first big step, which panels to buy, what else do I need, controllers, etc. Like you, I am a planner, but sometimes I over think things. I always learn from your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Nothing wrong with over thinking it. Better than regrets. But don't get analysis paralysis. Sometimes jumping in and buying one item and tackling a small project illuminates bigger ones. If you want to now best products - see Humble Road videos for electrical components. Solar panels are independent from rest of the items. Stick to lightweight panels not heavy glass ones. Mount like Tito did, best way I've seen. Keep them covered up so you don't get a shock or electricity being generated till you are ready to use them. Run a fake line like a string thru your existing roof vents like Fridge. Once the string is inside the RV decide where it needs to go for hookup and how long it needs to be. Your wire thickness depends on length. Mock it up first. Then make cardboard mockups of all the electrical devices you need and mount them in RV. Once it is all set in place and you worked out the kinks, do your ordering. Best Inverter is Victron. The Multiplus 2 can handle both lithium and AGM (Lead acid) batteries, and is also a battery charger and inverter. It is a True Sine Inverter not Modified Sine. Do not use a Modified Sine or your 110V appliances will fry. Always True Sine! Get a 2000 Watt inverter for most things as 3000 watt is pretty high. The bigger inverters will also sip more power as they are turned on. You only need an inverter turned on when you use 110V power from the batteries. 12V lights and fans, water pump, fridge mostly run without the inverter. Best solar charge controller (SCC) is Victron MPPT (not PWM). For a 30 amp SCC, you can mount a max of 400 watts of solar. If you mount 420 watts, you need another 30 amp SCC. It is better to get two SCCs at 30 amps each than one at 60 amps. Easier to have two systems if one malfunctions. The other one is still working. Safety code issues with your wiring diagram, wire gauges, wire heating all covered by Greg Virgoe. He is a great teacher and UK certified electrician. Where do you start? With your own requirements. Start camping and note what you want and need. Hair dryer? Toaster, coffee maker or French Press? Run AC on batteries or no AC? Run fridge on AC or use old tech propane fridge? Make a list. Then determine size of inverter you need. Then decide how much lithium battery bank size you need and can afford. You can keep adding batteries, and solar panels but not inverters. Also you could have a small dedicated inverter for your CPAP machine at night so the big power hog can be turned off. Requirements are key and you need to know yours first.
Hi My Name is Rich &I Really liked Your Video on Solar, We Don't know Much About it But Want to Learn All We Can Befor We Purchase, But Until Your Video's We Didn't know Who To Trust So Thank You Rich
I tried nylon insert nuts... I couldn't get them to work easily because the bolt would spin. I ended up going back to 2 normal nuts to do the lock. Not sure what I did wrong?
Jeff, I'm getting ready to use Brian's method of mounting panels and also agree that "elevator bolts" seem to be a good option over standard carriage bolts. With the flush heads it seems it will eliminate cutting out a layer of the plastic card board so this will retain integrity and strength of the PCB. I'm also going to use 3/4" bolts rather that 1" to eliminate the extra threads sticking up above the wing nuts. I'm considering 3M VHB tape rather than Eternabond for bonding but would appreciate comments. Lastly, Brian thanks for a great site/channel !!
Excellent video Brian. Great research and presentation. The work doesn't require a full shop of professional tools and expert level skills. Most importantly there's no drilling into the RV roof. Something few of us want to do. Again great video Brian. Thanks.
Could you do an output test with a watt meter with those flex panels? I would love to see how well they have held up. How long have you been using the sunpower ones? Those are the only flex panel cells that work well
So far they are a top performer, They are the 110 watt ones, but I've only used them for 3 months. I haven't isolated and measured them since installing, but I'd love to make them last a long time.
@@RVwithTito So you are a year in with the panels, how are they holding up? I'm thinking of ordering 12 to use on a boat instead of rigid panels (to save weight). Sunpower certainly seem to be the best, but still not sure of how long they will last...
I would like to personally thank you for you very informative videos. You explained very well. I was gona ask some questions, but I will wait until I complete reading the free guode you included. Thank you so much. I am an single 67yr. Old female, with a 93yr old mom, who will be traveling with me in a 1990 Winnebago Elandin. I want to do the solar power thing, nd am so happy you decided to share your knowledge. I definitely will be in touch as we progress on iur journey. Bless you.
I know I'm a little late to the party but that piece on the leading edge seems to me like it will negate one possible advantage of the corrugated panel. If you orient the "tubes" in the panel toward the front of the RV you will get airflow through the panel which will basically cool the panel to ambient temperate while you are underway. I'm thinking that VHB tape between the roof, the corrugated panel and the solar panel will provide plenty of strength to prevent lift and give you good air flow through the panel. I'm getting ready to do this project so I'm thinking I might try this. Keep the good stuff coming.
Just drilling a series of small holes in the front face of the anti-lift strip would suffice. It would not reduce strength and could allow enough airflow to pass to make a small but noticeable difference?
Thanks for sharing I live in my Escalade I’ve been wanting to do flexible panels so they are not seen. My concern was the heat underneath. Brilliant use of the corrugated plastic 😊 Like that u can change them out if needed.
Another awesome vid! You do such great work! It’d be interesting to see a 6-month or 1-year update on the flexible panels. Heard a lot of them delaminate fairly quickly. Of course, with your ingenious mounting system, they’ll be easy to replace if need be (as you mention). Thanks for making these videos. Your efforts are truly appreciated.
If you purchase quality flexible panels you will be far ahead. UniSolar and Xunlight made panels so good that they could not compete price-wise with the glut of overseas panels of lesser quality. Even though both companies are now gone...If you hurry... jnew panels from several years ago can still be purchased on eBay.
1. Scissors for aluminum? 2. Drilling aluminum bare handed? 3. Locktite - now we're talking! I really wanted to use a polycarbonate greenhouse panel. They usually run 3/8" - 1/2" thick flutes. Air flow would be fantastic. The sheets are super expensive and unavailable in any stores where I live. Looks like Coroplast is the only other alternative. I really like the idea of being able to remove the panel as it sounds like they have a rather short life span. Your vid couldn't come any sooner. I've been waiting for this update cuz I was planning on doing mine next week. I'd like to hear any naysayers better ideas for doing flexibles. I'm going to give this a shot! Thanks Brian!
Using 3M extreme mounting tape where the EBT is might eliminate the need for the EternaBond. Also how important is the front edge long aluminum piece? Wouldn’t it be good to have the air flowing through the plastic as one is driving?
Thx Brian! I like it. Did you ever take your temperature gun and check how much heat comes through your roof with the new design versus the old versus no solar? I like the idea of corplast just to keep the suns heat out, but you went one further with the solar! Well done!
Excellent video. I am thinking of doing a solar setup to operate a refer/freezer with my side by side for daytrips and maybe an overnight camping trip. This is a really good idea.
Thank you for sharing you experience and expertise, I'm a new subscriber and I have been binge watching your channel for the last few days. See you out there.
Awesome "how to" video Tito. This is the best You Tube video I have ever seen! Your design is simple yet effective, and I really like how you actually show every step without rushing through. Very thoughtful.
@@RVwithTito I'm assuming you need some kind of converter/transformer to link the Sunpower panels to your RV's battery system. Do they sell the necessary connection hardware? Also, have you done a video lesson on making the final hookup?
@@dneeld52 The outputs from solar panels feed into a solar charge controller which then regulates the charge to the batteries. You can see our entire setup here if you're interested www.rvwithtito.com/articles/our-solar
Hey guys. The output has been really good but it will be hard to nail down what the impact of the mounting method really is because these are higher quality panels over the previous ones. I imagine the operating temperature during peak hours are about the same (around 140 degF). We will see how they hold up over time.
great videos and ideas, keep up the good work ! I was wondering if you can take a thermo reading with a laser gun to a solar panel that has the plastic cardboard and one that does not ... just to see the difference ... thank you !
As I type this I'm going through this procedure. I had assembled one solar panel onto the corrugated plastic base and set it on the grass in the sun - I had been in the shade - while I assembled the second one. I noticed that apparently the solar panel and the plastic base expand or contract at different rates. The first assembly sitting in the grass started to buckle after sitting in the sunlight for a few minutes. When drilling holes into the backing you may want to keep that in mind. Also it might be a good idea to do the assembly/cutting/drilling with everything in the sunlight. I think I'm going to have to go back and enlarge my holes that I drilled in the plastic base.
I like all your projects. This is a super simple way to attach the flexible solar panels. I wonder if the plastic corrugated cardboard will hold up to UV radiation in the long run and I wonder if the core will clog with dirt and maybe grow mold in the long run as well. With that said, I think it is a great idea and I like not poking holes in your roof. I think I like your solar panel window awnings the best. Do you still use those?
Perfect. I would have reinforced the brackets onto the corrugated carboard with epoxy glue. The best I've found is Loctite P and L max. It's construction adhesive and cures almost like a solid plastic.
Nice job guy I had the same concerns. I just bought my first flex panel .I had limited space and limited contour on the top of my pickup topper since I have a rack up there also. I especially like the way you worked that leading edge. In some cities I heard they frown upon seeing solar on your vehicle so I wanted something a little more stealthy and not advertise that I have a solar setup. Your installation technique is commendable. Here's to smooth sailing Bro.
One suggestion: You might tell viewers to be aware of the "grain" of the plastic cardboard when cutting and mounting to a curved surface. If you are mounting to a school bus roof, for example, you need the cardboard to be able to follow the curve of the roof. The cardboard is flexible in one axis and not in another. I really appreciate the detail of your videos, thanks.
Good point for a domed roof which I have. It will bend better if lines on coroplast are front to back. However....! You don't want the panel to bend but to remain as level as possible. The narrow width won't make much difference. If you did mount it front to back, the air holes for venting would be covered up by the metal strip. If you mounted it the way Tito did, the side airholes would still get a lot of air circulation from the swirling air but not enough to shear off. So its a toss up.
Thanks Brian. Very helpful. You should set up a method where we can buy you a cup of coffee every one in awhile. I forgot the name of the site that does this. Thanks again!
If you buy QUALITY (usually american or european made) flexible solar panels you will be happy. I might suggest amorphous type panels for better low light and partially shaded performance. They are less efficient so are sized larger for a given wattage. Often the warranty is 25 years yet you may well never need any warranty assistance. Have fun!
Thank you for the effort you put into this. This informative, very detail-oriented, and cut/paced to be respectful of your viewers time -- but the icing on the cake is your location/shot. Beautiful scenery. Tremendous attention-to-detail and production quality, thank you!
THANK YOU! This has answered my issue about installing lightweight solar panels to a pop top campervan. Never liked the idea of gluing the solar panel to the roof or drilling holes in the roof. I've used and love the lightweight coreflute for various projects including adding some insulation to my side widows. GREAT IDEA! Watched your follow ups on this project and gives me more confidence that this system works long term. Cheers Australia
Brian, I'm curious about the RV withTito name. While reading through the comments many refer to you as Tito instead of by your name. Is that an acronym for something? While out RV shopping, you found it and said "This is the one" ~ T i t o ~ or name of a puppy, or?
The other comment is correct. Little Tito still sits on the dash. You can find the original "Big Tito" is on the top shelf in the shop. I originally started the RVWITHTITO website over 10 years ago long before becoming what it is today. Tito has also become a nickname of sorts, so I answer to both.
😲🤯Its crazy! I had the exact same idea in my head with the bolts and wingnuts and under panel of coroplast and VHB tape and eterna-bond tape. Im doing it with my 100 watt solar-saga foldable panel. I want to remove it when it rains. So glad i found this video. I might use bolts with a hole on the tip, so s pin can be used instead of wingnuts. I want to be able to remove them quickly in case of sudden downpour and when im awake from the van.
Well thought out installation procedure. Please let us all know how this weathers over the years. NOTE: there have been reports of flexible solar panels totally failing if installed directly to metal roofs with no thin layer of insulation underneath the panel. This seems likely to be a thermal overload failure, especially with flexible panels that have an aluminum backing that was probably intended to be a rustproof heat sink. Most likely solar heating accumulation on a metal roof with insulation on the passenger compartment side was transferred to the solar cells via their aluminum backing, thus overheating them. (It would be useful to verify this if others have had the same experience.)
Looks like a modification of "Hobotech's" attachment method but he used glass panels. They've lasted several years and haven't blown off. I like that leading edge metal idea! I wonder if the plastic sheet will retain water and freeze in the winter ...maybe it won't affect the flexible panels since they flex a little anyway. I still appreciate your window awning idea the most because those might catch the best angle of the sun and do double-duty shading the windows. Thanks for all these creative approaches!
Excellent Video!! I am still a bit skeptical about the life of flexible panels vs "rigid"; not sure if it is general/overall heat dissipation but I think you have pretty much nailed it. I guess for me, if this is pretty much a permanent mount I wouldn't have used wing-nuts and locking nuts instead, and perhaps applied a little adhesive in the central area to ensure the panel doesn't "vibrate" and weaken the internal crystalline structure via venturi effect. (My wind tunnel is down at the moment and I can't test - j/k). If the panel goes bad I am not wasting much money throwing away the insulated backing along with it... as to warranty replacement, yeah they are going to want a pristine panel so maybe no adhesive or something that can be peeled off if / when needed. Anyway, this is one of the best thought out installation ideas I have ever seen!! -Many Thanks!
Some panels are noy crystaline at all and are a bit more hardy. They are amorphous panels. As for warranty...many companies are now reluctant to help the DIY'r. On the bright side, if you purchase quality equipment...panels, controller, inverter and batteries...you will likely not need a warranty.
I've got a Class B with a bunch of stuff on the roof, not much room left and not flat. I've installed as many conventional panels as I could fit using brackets. With this new method, I believe can add some skinny flexible panels around the AC in the back. Thanks for this great idea! I already used a variant of your roof cable access method.
I suggest you replace the wing-nuts with a nut with nylon lock thus eliminating the need for locktite. These nuts are available in stainless steel in most if not all metric and sae sizes. I have even seen a wing-nut version but these maybe hard to find particularly in stainless.
Get 10% OFF SUNPOWER Semi-Flexible solar panels (like the ones in the video) at SunPoweredYachts.com with the "RVWITHTITO" discount code. Check current prices at www.sunpoweredyachts.com/shop.
can you tell us what do you use for cable roof box ? i'm having a hard time find one that can be adjustable or adding / removing more cables ?
@@jeannie8262 Hi Jeannie. Have you seen this video? ua-cam.com/video/aB8ic6x9DAM/v-deo.html. This is how I do it. I can add new holes for more cable glands as needed. Right now I have 4. Hope that helps.
How are the panels working now? Still like new? Have you noticed any performance drop? And other issues?
I need someone to help me install on my Roadtrek know anyone?
That corrugated plastic is call "'Corflute"'.
Drill a hole in the wing nut a safety wire it to the stud . Aviation tip.👍
Or just use a nylon nut!
Or just use a lock nut.
Skateboarder tip just use lock nuts. Same thing we use to keep the wheels on the trucks.
😊
Jap nuts are known to come loose, that's why they drill a hole in the stud and put a cotter pin in .
Genius idea! I am just an hour away from installing my flexible solar panel, but now I have to run to the hardware store. Thanks for saving me from making the mistake of gluing my panel directly to the roof!
Excellent solution for: 1. Stealth install with a very low profile. 2. Air flow to cool the panels and water drainage. 3. No holes in the roof. 4. Front of panel secured to prevent air sailing. This type of install will extend the life of the panel.
I'm hoping it helps extend the panel life.
Most panels fail due to the abuse that UV radiation can dish out. Adhering directly to metal can actually act as a heat sink yet with a quality panel...heat is not an issue. BTW...stealth is a lost art. Law enforcement and concerned citizens are usually supported by the latest ordinances to prevent anyone to stealth camp in many, if not most, neighborhoods and business districts. It was easy in the 80's and 90's...nowadays...not so much. I recomends getting out of the cities onto public land. Its wonderful.
Thanks for sharing. I like that you have a written summary in your notes. I also like that you did not have to cut into your van to mount the flex panels.
I used this method to install my 3 flexible solar panels three years ago and about 20k miles and it has served me well. My corrugated plastic has begun to get brittle and will need replacement but this worked and worked well.
I don't think that I would have cut out around the heads of the carriage bolts. They will compress up when tightened and leave the double thickness for strength. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Exactly what I was thing. Just use a flat top carriage bolt instead of round top and a washer. Slap a piece of tape over it to keep metal from rubbing the rubber roof.
it only locates the coreflute, you could actually cut or punch it completly out, the alloy strip and panel secure the coreflute
Awesome video, personally I would use elevator bolts. Maybe epoxy them to the roof as well. Also remember if you are using ANY stainless to use anti-seize or STL to prevent galling. If you line up the wing nuts forward to back before you set them to the roof all you have to do is take a quick look on top to see if any wing nuts have turned off of the forward to rearward orientation. Nice job!!
Thanks for the suggestions. Check out my more recent mount and let me know what you think. ua-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/v-deo.html
A slot cut in the threaded end of the bolts, would be a good idea.
Then if they ever spin in the hole, you could hold them with a screwdriver when you take the nut off.
What an excellent idea. Sounds like a job for my mini cordless Dremel. Thanks!!
I really like the idea of being able to easily change out the panel at a later date and no holes drilled in the roof. I will definately use this method.
I recently posted a video showing a new method. If you like this one then the other is better. 👍
I just recently completed installing 6 of the Sunpower 100w flexible panels on my travel trailer using this method and I like how everything turned out. I will definitely report back after I hit the road for a couple months. I opted for elevator bolts as others have suggested. Excited to hit the road next month. Thanks Brian for the inspiration!!
You bet. Enjoy!
What are the long term results?
BRILLIANT! I have a fiberglass high top that I wouldn't want to drill holes through, this is a great low-cost and low-tech solution. The corrugated plastic panels also go by the name Coroplast. The aluminum piece looks like the z-flashing I used to join the 4x8 panels on the outside of my shed.
So how do you get the wires through? I also have a fiberglass high top and would love to know some alternatives
I'm not even into RV'ing and so far I enjoy your videos. I watched one video just to gather info about lithium batteries. Now this is the 3rd video I've watched from your channel tonight. 👍
Hey there! Glad you're enjoying the videos. Cheers.
I did something similar, I used neoprene padding beneath each flexible panel. Your corrugated plastic is much less expensive. Excellent idea.
Maybe use 1/2" sheet of foam insulation.
Brian. You are a genius. Nobody has done this. This is going on my pop up truck camper for sure. Thank you.
Great! Good luck.
I was skeptical about how you were going to make it stay on the roof without any drilling. I was pleased to see that it looks very secure. Your real world test has proven your system to be successful. Great job!
I already bought my flexible, solar panel. I already have portable ones and I drive a minivan which I created into a little camper. I love your idea here I didn’t want to put the tape all the way around it and that gives me some great ideas especially with that that barrier you put between the solar panel and the RV!!
Brian, I always love how you think outside the box and come up with something brilliant. I'm still in awe of your solar canopies but this goes beyond that. I imagine this will be a game changer for the solar community wanting the lighter weight panels. Kudos to you for your genius ideas.
Thanks so much. It was time for a new method. I hope it helps.
Wow I have been racking my brain to figure out how to install panels on fiberglass. So excited to cross you path.... best solution I’ve seen so far... I think I have a winner. Thank you 😊
Awesome! Good luck.
@Teresa Noel You need an air gap under solar panels to keep them cool so they don't overheat and fail. Rigid panel are the way to go. You should not puncture the roof to mount them. Use adhesive to mount ABS blocks that hold the rigid panels. See www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYPFSGJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07RYPFSGJ
That looks like a pretty nice solution. I've been considering adding a solar panel to the top of my pop-up camper and I might use this method. However, I would probably use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts. Elevator bolts usually have a larger, flatter, head so you wouldn't have to cut out material to accommodate the carriage bolt head. You can also find elevator bolts with spike grippers under the head that would help keep them from spinning.
I've also started putting tape under the bolt so it doesn't make direct contact to the roof. Good luck with your project!
Elevator bolts is the exact method I'll also be using - with a 1 1/4" head, I can use pre-cut VHB circles for easy install.
Hi,,, may be instead of wing nut a lock nut would be more satisfying.
Great info, thank you!
TY Tito...
I'm about to put some budget flexible panels on the roof of my rig and you just saved me a lot of time and headache when one inevitably needs to be replaced.
Great to hear. Here is a better solution ua-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/v-deo.html
Good luck!
As usual, your vlogs continue to set the bar for how to communicate and show the correct way for project's. Keep them coming.
Thanks Wayne!! I'll keep them coming for sure.
Brilliant. This should become the standard method for installing flex panels. Thanks, Brian!
You're welcome Kathy.
I am so thankful I found you! I'll be bringing my first RV home in just a couple more weeks. Class C 32 ft. Beyond excited. I'm hooked on your videos. Your work, patience and craftsmanship is impeccable! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and AWESOME ideas! Happy camping! 😁
Finally, a way to mount safely and securely yet easily replace panels as needed and take them off should you sell your unit! Recently I've seen a couple of used class 'A' RV's all decked out with solar. I just can't imagine putting all that money into a system and then leaving it all and having to do it all over again on the new rig! Now I'm willing to start planning a solar setup for our 5th wheel. I got your solar guide too, thank you so much!
Glad you got something out of all this :) Good luck!
what a great idea. You truly are the Macgyver of RV's
if you copy this design, before installing it, cut screwdriver slots in the ends of the carriage bolts, just in case they try and rotate when you remove the PV panels then you can use a screw driver to stop the carriage bolt from spinning
That’s always a good idea or you can use to nuts snug down the lower not encounter tighten the upper one
Great Job , The Plastic is called COREFLUTE , used in sinage ,,, very strong stuff ,,
Wikipedia adds: Corriboard - also known under the tradenames of Cartonplast®, Polyflute, Coroplast, FlutePlast, IntePro, Proplex, Correx, Twinplast, Corriflute or Corflute. Wish I could find the affordable version. Its kinda spendy.
I'd go with plywood for cost and stability.
@@ravendon Missing the point, getting heat away from the flexible panel with the core flute is the best thing as that's a major problem that shortens flexible panels life span dramatically...
I don’t use roof mount panels, I tend to park under shady areas. I set panels in sunny areas, I have a rack for my panels in the back of my truck.
Nicely done. Great minds think alike. I did a similar mount simpler still.
Cut a 4" diameter circle of Eternabond tape and then put a 3/8" hole in the middle. Use that to tape 5/16" x 1" big headed elevator bolts to the trailer roof. Cut a circle of plastic milk bottle to keep the bolt head from scratching the roof. Then bolt the panels down with Coroplast backing. I've got about 5,000 miles on it so far with good result.
Nice. Thanks for sharing your setup. 👍
Interesting twist on a familiar theme. Thanks for the ideas!
Very nice pro tip, many thanks!!!
Excellent! Just what I needed to see. This was my idea too but nice to see it materialize. I have some Lexan Polycarbonate panels which are more UV resistant and shatter resistant than Coroplast but pricier. If you can get used ones from a greenhouse...! They are slightly more raised. On Cheap RV Living, this guy uses tubular aluminum and mounts panels to that, but I think they still need a Coroplast backing to stiffen them up. The tubular aluminum is useful if you have a domed roof and acts like a mini rack.
Your idea of chopping up the tile edging to use as brackets is brilliant and saves money.
Use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts for a flat not curved surface. I think cutting away at that Coroplast was not smart as it will degrade faster with the wind shear forces. The elevator bolt will compress the plastic enough to sink in.
I think you absolutely nailed it on the flex mounting. Everyone should follow this example. If you had a roof rack, this could also be mounted on the rack and that might be easier to replace for maintenance, but this is a simple, elegant solution to this pesky problem. I'm really grateful! Many thanks, Tito! I have 4 to mount. I was worried about having to add a deflector but with that front strip of metal on each one, problem solved. No wind shear issues. I see that the hollow tube section of the Coroplast is facing side to side. Initially I thought it should face front to rear for good airflow under the panels to keep them cool, then realized the wind shear would be too strong that way, so side to side is more than enough wind getting redirected to there. Superb.
I would add a dab of Dicor self leveling lap sealant on top of every tightened up, Loctite'd wing nut. Now it is truly waterproof, corrosion proof and also insulated against heat. Also viewers - use stainless steel hardware all the way.
Pro tip - I used a Wagner heat gun (cheapest brand) to heat up Dicor when I have to remove it. It comes off so easily. Use a flat blade putty knife and a heat gun when you have to remove those wing nuts, it really is a breeze. I see that Eternabond tape also loosens up with a heat gun. You made a video on that too. Your info is so practical and applicable. Very useful videos!
Q: 1:39 - What sort of wire loom (wire cover) did you use on the roof for the cords from solar panels? It looks white, and is probably heat reflective and insulated so the wiring stays cool. I'd love to know if its anything special?
I noticed the plastic corrugations run width wise not length wise on your panel. I had to "rewind" the video to verify as I thought sealing up the front edge would block any air flow if the corrugations ran front to back. I made a PVC awning/portable mount using your previous video. Thank you for that. And boy, those panels get HOT in direct sunlight.
The front edge is covered by the aluminium piece so front to back orientation wouldn't work. The side orientation is also for proper drainage since the panels are on a very slight downward side angle.
Panel heating has been the demise of many a panel made with the wrong materials. Do some research and you will find panels that can take tremendous heat and still have most of their output after 10-15 or even 20 years. I have a Uni-Solar panel that is 13 years old... very little degredation. My neighbor has had all his panels (four identical from the same manufacturer) die within 3 years. He went the lesser quality route. They were beautiful panels but the materials just did not hold up well. I have a total of 13 amorphous panels that all look about the same as when I bought them yet were never fancy looking. They are also larger than the equivilant crystaline panels so more real estate is needed.
This is for all you RV goers... Hehehe, the only trick i came up with...
I have hooked my "hot water" side of the sink tap to the external water inlet so that i can use the external water and save the one from my tank just by swinging the handle towards the hot water...
It might be helpful to someone with a simpler set up like myself!
GREAT VIDEO thanks so much for posting it.... The only thing i would do differently would be to run the front tape only dead aligned with the edge of the floor transition strip edges and i would cut a 'U' shaped notch to house the front bolts so that if i want to remove the solar panel i could just easily flip the aluminium transition up as these panels don't last a super long time in good working order.
One of my two panels flew off my van using this method, going 80mph down a highway in high winds. Panels were mounted horizontally across the roof, one in front of the other (that's one point of difference; these are mounted "vertically" down the length of the roof). I also didn't attach that transition strip to the back panel, the one that flew off, so maybe that's what did it in. Panel was still attached to the corrugated plastic when it flew off. But I can't risk trying this method again. Not sure why no one else seems to have had problems.
GUI the people that I’ve tried it I have not actually returned for input🚚
Seriously Brian. This is the best flex panel install anywhere I've seen. I'm going to install mine exactly the same. BTW>That corrugated plastic panel is called "'Coreflute"'.
Really nice setup and even though the semi-rigid panels are more expensive and potentially more problematic I definitely prefer the much lower profile appearance versus the rigid panels which can be a bit of an eyesore with multiple panels installed. Thanks for the time and effort it took to put this presentation together.
Just finished installing 4 HQST 100w panels using the plastic cardboard method shown on this video and everything went great. Thanks to this video I am now set up for off grid very well.. Thank you Tito your videos are great and it gave me the confidence I needed to do it without drilling. No thread lock tight and I’m sure I don’t need it.
What I like the best is that they can be removed and installed only when your leaving for a trip and plan on boon docking. An excellent, low wear on panels idea.
Nice work , one comment . Drilling thin small pieces of a sharp things will send you to the first aid box or the emergency room. I speak from experience. Now that flexible panels have improved (may 3 2021) I am revisiting flexible panels for my ordered Rv coming .my new ordered rig comes with a wopping 100 watts . So I am back watching your videos again for ideas. Thank you.
Finally, a technique that just might get me moving toward a solar installation (in conjunction with your previous solar “how tos”). Thanks Brian.
You're welcome! Good luck.
This is wonderful solution. I was looking hard at the tubing you installed your panel cables through....would love to see more on that portion of the installation. We are running a 2019 Ford Transit conversion and I have 2 panels to cable and am struggling over making it "look" somewhat good.
I’ve just found u this past week have gone through 7 yrs ago and watched u . Learning so much thank u
Wow, you've done it again. A very well thought out and executed DIY install. Nearly genius. If I can only overcome the fear of that first big step, which panels to buy, what else do I need, controllers, etc. Like you, I am a planner, but sometimes I over think things. I always learn from your videos. Thanks for sharing.
RedRoofRetriever I hear ya!
@@secondwindphotos This dude posted this in spring - ua-cam.com/video/Dvqvhl18dO4/v-deo.html
Nothing wrong with over thinking it. Better than regrets. But don't get analysis paralysis. Sometimes jumping in and buying one item and tackling a small project illuminates bigger ones.
If you want to now best products - see Humble Road videos for electrical components.
Solar panels are independent from rest of the items. Stick to lightweight panels not heavy glass ones. Mount like Tito did, best way I've seen. Keep them covered up so you don't get a shock or electricity being generated till you are ready to use them. Run a fake line like a string thru your existing roof vents like Fridge. Once the string is inside the RV decide where it needs to go for hookup and how long it needs to be. Your wire thickness depends on length. Mock it up first.
Then make cardboard mockups of all the electrical devices you need and mount them in RV. Once it is all set in place and you worked out the kinks, do your ordering.
Best Inverter is Victron. The Multiplus 2 can handle both lithium and AGM (Lead acid) batteries, and is also a battery charger and inverter. It is a True Sine Inverter not Modified Sine. Do not use a Modified Sine or your 110V appliances will fry. Always True Sine! Get a 2000 Watt inverter for most things as 3000 watt is pretty high. The bigger inverters will also sip more power as they are turned on. You only need an inverter turned on when you use 110V power from the batteries. 12V lights and fans, water pump, fridge mostly run without the inverter.
Best solar charge controller (SCC) is Victron MPPT (not PWM). For a 30 amp SCC, you can mount a max of 400 watts of solar. If you mount 420 watts, you need another 30 amp SCC. It is better to get two SCCs at 30 amps each than one at 60 amps. Easier to have two systems if one malfunctions. The other one is still working.
Safety code issues with your wiring diagram, wire gauges, wire heating all covered by Greg Virgoe. He is a great teacher and UK certified electrician.
Where do you start?
With your own requirements. Start camping and note what you want and need. Hair dryer? Toaster, coffee maker or French Press? Run AC on batteries or no AC? Run fridge on AC or use old tech propane fridge? Make a list. Then determine size of inverter you need. Then decide how much lithium battery bank size you need and can afford. You can keep adding batteries, and solar panels but not inverters. Also you could have a small dedicated inverter for your CPAP machine at night so the big power hog can be turned off. Requirements are key and you need to know yours first.
@@mjremy2605great info!
Hi My Name is Rich &I Really liked Your Video on Solar, We Don't know Much About it But Want to Learn All We Can Befor We Purchase, But Until Your Video's We Didn't know Who To Trust So Thank You Rich
You're welcome Rich. Thanks for adding my to your list of resources.
You can buy lock wingnuts, they have the plastic inserts, so they won't come off easily....great job!
Thanks!
WHO SELLS THEM?
I tried nylon insert nuts... I couldn't get them to work easily because the bolt would spin. I ended up going back to 2 normal nuts to do the lock. Not sure what I did wrong?
I'd pick elevator bolts over carriage bolts- thinner head.
Here is Seattle, I'd worry about moss and mung accumulating under the plastic board.
Use elevator bolts they have large flat heads with anti rotating tabs
Jeff, I'm getting ready to use Brian's method of mounting panels and also agree that "elevator bolts" seem to be a good option over standard carriage bolts. With the flush heads it seems it will eliminate cutting out a layer of the plastic card board so this will retain integrity and strength of the PCB. I'm also going to use 3/4" bolts rather that 1" to eliminate the extra threads sticking up above the wing nuts.
I'm considering 3M VHB tape rather than Eternabond for bonding but would appreciate comments.
Lastly, Brian thanks for a great site/channel !!
Disregard the 3M VHB comment which was included in error.
Jeff, thank you for the tip did not even know elevator bolts existed
Excellent video Brian. Great research and presentation. The work doesn't require a full shop of professional tools and expert level skills. Most importantly there's no drilling into the RV roof. Something few of us want to do.
Again great video Brian. Thanks.
Thanks Jack. Yeah. It's a pretty easy project.
Hey great job! Looks great. Gotta love that eternabond tape. Super strong.
Could you do an output test with a watt meter with those flex panels? I would love to see how well they have held up. How long have you been using the sunpower ones? Those are the only flex panel cells that work well
Thanks Will. I've used eternabond for tons of stuff. I've even used it to patch a leaky fuel line in a pinch until I could fix it. Worked!
So far they are a top performer, They are the 110 watt ones, but I've only used them for 3 months. I haven't isolated and measured them since installing, but I'd love to make them last a long time.
@@RVwithTito they look great!! Can't wait to see how they hold up. Your mounts look amazing!! So cool
@@RVwithTito So you are a year in with the panels, how are they holding up? I'm thinking of ordering 12 to use on a boat instead of rigid panels (to save weight). Sunpower certainly seem to be the best, but still not sure of how long they will last...
I would like to personally thank you for you very informative videos. You explained very well. I was gona ask some questions, but I will wait until I complete reading the free guode you included. Thank you so much. I am an single 67yr. Old female, with a 93yr old mom, who will be traveling with me in a 1990 Winnebago Elandin. I want to do the solar power thing, nd am so happy you decided to share your knowledge. I definitely will be in touch as we progress on iur journey. Bless you.
Nice job, Tito. I wondered about the panels "lifting" when traveling; hadn't thought of the heat issue. Thanks for sharing this! Y'all Be Safe!
There's been no lifting at all with this setup.
You can cover sides of van, too. Most of the time sun is fron side, not top. On top is just 3h a day. Cover all van and put Tesla PowerWall.
@@simonci5177 except that the Tesla Powerwall weighs almost 350#. Most people would not want to add that kind of weight to a small camper.
I know I'm a little late to the party but that piece on the leading edge seems to me like it will negate one possible advantage of the corrugated panel. If you orient the "tubes" in the panel toward the front of the RV you will get airflow through the panel which will basically cool the panel to ambient temperate while you are underway. I'm thinking that VHB tape between the roof, the corrugated panel and the solar panel will provide plenty of strength to prevent lift and give you good air flow through the panel. I'm getting ready to do this project so I'm thinking I might try this. Keep the good stuff coming.
Cooling airflow thru the coreflute under the panel could increase the efficiency of the panel.
Just drilling a series of small holes in the front face of the anti-lift strip would suffice. It would not reduce strength and could allow enough airflow to pass to make a small but noticeable difference?
GENIUS. I was going to ruin my fiberglass roof. Tito, 🏆 you deserve it. Thank you, so much!
Check out this solution
ua-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/v-deo.html
@@RVwithTito Thank You!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for, thank you so much!
You're welcome. Glad it helped.
Thanks for sharing
I live in my Escalade
I’ve been wanting to do flexible panels so they are not seen. My concern was the heat underneath. Brilliant use of the corrugated plastic 😊
Like that u can change them out if needed.
Another awesome vid! You do such great work! It’d be interesting to see a 6-month or 1-year update on the flexible panels. Heard a lot of them delaminate fairly quickly. Of course, with your ingenious mounting system, they’ll be easy to replace if need be (as you mention).
Thanks for making these videos. Your efforts are truly appreciated.
I will certainly be sharing updates. Thanks for your kind words.
If you purchase quality flexible panels you will be far ahead. UniSolar and Xunlight made panels so good that they could not compete price-wise with the glut of overseas panels of lesser quality. Even though both companies are now gone...If you hurry... jnew panels from several years ago can still be purchased on eBay.
@@RVwithTito amazing video! any updates?
1. Scissors for aluminum?
2. Drilling aluminum bare handed?
3. Locktite - now we're talking!
I really wanted to use a polycarbonate greenhouse panel. They usually run 3/8" - 1/2" thick flutes. Air flow would be fantastic. The sheets are super expensive and unavailable in any stores where I live. Looks like Coroplast is the only other alternative. I really like the idea of being able to remove the panel as it sounds like they have a rather short life span. Your vid couldn't come any sooner. I've been waiting for this update cuz I was planning on doing mine next week. I'd like to hear any naysayers better ideas for doing flexibles. I'm going to give this a shot! Thanks Brian!
Good luck. I'll have to look into those and other materials.
Using 3M extreme mounting tape where the EBT is might eliminate the need for the EternaBond. Also how important is the front edge long aluminum piece? Wouldn’t it be good to have the air flowing through the plastic as one is driving?
Really nice set up! Just got my first flexible panel. Adding it to 3 ridged solar panels. The cleanliness of the install is very impressive.
Thx Brian! I like it. Did you ever take your temperature gun and check how much heat comes through your roof with the new design versus the old versus no solar? I like the idea of corplast just to keep the suns heat out, but you went one further with the solar! Well done!
Thanks. I haven't measured temps yet in a controlled setting.
Excellent video. I am thinking of doing a solar setup to operate a refer/freezer with my side by side for daytrips and maybe an overnight camping trip. This is a really good idea.
check this one out too: ua-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/v-deo.html
Thank you for sharing you experience and expertise, I'm a new subscriber and I have been binge watching your channel for the last few days. See you out there.
If you see me. Say hi!
Awesome "how to" video Tito. This is the best You Tube video I have ever seen! Your design is simple yet effective, and I really like how you actually show every step without rushing through. Very thoughtful.
Glad it was helpful!
@@RVwithTito I'm assuming you need some kind of converter/transformer to link the Sunpower panels to your RV's battery system. Do they sell the necessary connection hardware? Also, have you done a video lesson on making the final hookup?
@@dneeld52 The outputs from solar panels feed into a solar charge controller which then regulates the charge to the batteries. You can see our entire setup here if you're interested www.rvwithtito.com/articles/our-solar
Interesting and creative idea and implementation. Any way to tell if you're getting improved output from the panels being cooler?
Hey guys. The output has been really good but it will be hard to nail down what the impact of the mounting method really is because these are higher quality panels over the previous ones. I imagine the operating temperature during peak hours are about the same (around 140 degF). We will see how they hold up over time.
@@RVwithTito Can't wait to see 'em in person. 😊
@@RVwithTito
How are we doing so far?
@@unenslaver1333 curious about an update on these panels as well.
@@RVwithTito Compared to say, Renogy, are the Sunpower panels better at producing/converting light to energy? I'm looking at both.
One of the better / best flex Panel installs I've seen. Don't know how I missed this video.
great videos and ideas, keep up the good work ! I was wondering if you can take a thermo reading with a laser gun to a solar panel that has the plastic cardboard and one that does not ... just to see the difference ... thank you !
I'm not in a position to do it now, but I will at some point.
As I type this I'm going through this procedure. I had assembled one solar panel onto the corrugated plastic base and set it on the grass in the sun - I had been in the shade - while I assembled the second one. I noticed that apparently the solar panel and the plastic base expand or contract at different rates. The first assembly sitting in the grass started to buckle after sitting in the sunlight for a few minutes. When drilling holes into the backing you may want to keep that in mind. Also it might be a good idea to do the assembly/cutting/drilling with everything in the sunlight. I think I'm going to have to go back and enlarge my holes that I drilled in the plastic base.
Very nice! Wish you had come up with this about 6 weeks ago before I put flexible panels on my RV. This is a much better method.
Oops. Sorry about that.
@@RVwithTito LOL, nothing to be sorry about. I just really like the way you did it, versus the way I did it.
I like all your projects. This is a super simple way to attach the flexible solar panels. I wonder if the plastic corrugated cardboard will hold up to UV radiation in the long run and I wonder if the core will clog with dirt and maybe grow mold in the long run as well. With that said, I think it is a great idea and I like not poking holes in your roof.
I think I like your solar panel window awnings the best. Do you still use those?
Thanks! I still use the awnings on occasion. For a quick setup, I'll typically put them on the ground.
UV should be fine as it's covered by the panel and mounting hardware. Mold could be an issue but not in the climates they seem to frequent.
This mateial is used for 90% of roadside signs and they last forever being hit rand over stepped on etc im sure its perfectly happy on that roof
Thanks!
Thanks a bunch Ed for the support!
That's a really nice setup. I can't stand the thought of drilling holes in my roof....
Why? Just seal it with silicone. The non flexible panels have a higher efficiency and much longer life.
Perfect. I would have reinforced the brackets onto the corrugated carboard with epoxy glue. The best I've found is Loctite P and L max. It's construction adhesive and cures almost like a solid plastic.
Awesome! I wonder how that would work on my curved roof on my Teardrop Trailer?
I believe it will work fine. Give it a try.
Really well done initial start. I’m now checking out your updated vid to see how you evolved this idea.
Just what I have been looking for! Another Goodun Tito.
Thanks!!
Nice job guy I had the same concerns. I just bought my first flex panel .I had limited space and limited contour on the top of my pickup topper since I have a rack up there also. I especially like the way you worked that leading edge. In some cities I heard they frown upon seeing solar on your vehicle so I wanted something a little more stealthy and not advertise that I have a solar setup. Your installation technique is commendable. Here's to smooth sailing Bro.
One suggestion: You might tell viewers to be aware of the "grain" of the plastic cardboard when cutting and mounting to a curved surface. If you are mounting to a school bus roof, for example, you need the cardboard to be able to follow the curve of the roof. The cardboard is flexible in one axis and not in another. I really appreciate the detail of your videos, thanks.
Good point! Thanks for sharing it.
Good point for a domed roof which I have. It will bend better if lines on coroplast are front to back. However....!
You don't want the panel to bend but to remain as level as possible. The narrow width won't make much difference. If you did mount it front to back, the air holes for venting would be covered up by the metal strip. If you mounted it the way Tito did, the side airholes would still get a lot of air circulation from the swirling air but not enough to shear off. So its a toss up.
Good video !
One suggestion, round the corners of the tape.
That’s a technique all roofers do when dealing with any type of flashing material.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been looking into heat welding material also.
Thanks Brian. Very helpful. You should set up a method where we can buy you a cup of coffee every one in awhile. I forgot the name of the site that does this. Thanks again!
Hmm. Coffee. Thanks for the support!
Home Deopt cheap'ish Lexan capillaries type sheeting under flexi solar panel = much needed cooling ;)
you are amazing, such an eye for detail - LOVE IT ! Thank you for sharing
You're very kind. Thanks!
I now use your process. I really like this because no holes in roof and if I want to use the panels I can remove them.
Great! Let us know if you come up with any ways to improve it.
Thanks for this video, are you still happy with the flexible panels after the failure in your last video?
Absolutely. I'm using higher quality panels/cells now though that should have more longevity.
If you buy QUALITY (usually american or european made) flexible solar panels you will be happy. I might suggest amorphous type panels for better low light and partially shaded performance. They are less efficient so are sized larger for a given wattage. Often the warranty is 25 years yet you may well never need any warranty assistance. Have fun!
I’m trying this out to avoid drilling holes in my fiberglass camper shell on my truck. Thanks for the video!
Glad to help
"Corex" is a common name for that plastic sheet.
and Coroplast, which is a specific brand of corrugated plastic.
Thank you for the effort you put into this. This informative, very detail-oriented, and cut/paced to be respectful of your viewers time -- but the icing on the cake is your location/shot. Beautiful scenery. Tremendous attention-to-detail and production quality, thank you!
You're very welcome. I really appreciate that feedback. Cheers!
Freakin' brilliant.
THANK YOU! This has answered my issue about installing lightweight solar panels to a pop top campervan.
Never liked the idea of gluing the solar panel to the roof or drilling holes in the roof. I've used and love the lightweight coreflute for various projects including adding some insulation to my side widows. GREAT IDEA!
Watched your follow ups on this project and gives me more confidence that this system works long term. Cheers Australia
Brian, I'm curious about the RV withTito name. While reading through the comments many refer to you as Tito instead of by your name. Is that an acronym for something?
While out RV shopping, you found it and said "This is the one" ~ T i t o ~ or name of a puppy, or?
I think he said it was the name of the dancing figurine on the dashboard of the RV
@@benningtoncamper2852 Correct!
The other comment is correct. Little Tito still sits on the dash. You can find the original "Big Tito" is on the top shelf in the shop. I originally started the RVWITHTITO website over 10 years ago long before becoming what it is today. Tito has also become a nickname of sorts, so I answer to both.
😲🤯Its crazy! I had the exact same idea in my head with the bolts and wingnuts and under panel of coroplast and VHB tape and eterna-bond tape.
Im doing it with my 100 watt solar-saga foldable panel.
I want to remove it when it rains.
So glad i found this video.
I might use bolts with a hole on the tip, so s pin can be used instead of wingnuts.
I want to be able to remove them quickly in case of sudden downpour and when im awake from the van.
to save costs wait until after elections and use political signs;)
Excellent idea!! I guess I'll have to settle for either a blue or red roof then :)
Well thought out installation procedure. Please let us all know how this weathers over the years.
NOTE: there have been reports of flexible solar panels totally failing if installed directly to metal roofs with no thin layer of insulation underneath the panel. This seems likely to be a thermal overload failure, especially with flexible panels that have an aluminum backing that was probably intended to be a rustproof heat sink. Most likely solar heating accumulation on a metal roof with insulation on the passenger compartment side was transferred to the solar cells via their aluminum backing, thus overheating them. (It would be useful to verify this if others have had the same experience.)
Looks like a modification of "Hobotech's" attachment method but he used glass panels. They've lasted several years and haven't blown off. I like that leading edge metal idea! I wonder if the plastic sheet will retain water and freeze in the winter ...maybe it won't affect the flexible panels since they flex a little anyway. I still appreciate your window awning idea the most because those might catch the best angle of the sun and do double-duty shading the windows. Thanks for all these creative approaches!
Excellent Video!!
I am still a bit skeptical about the life of flexible panels vs "rigid"; not sure if it is general/overall heat dissipation but I think you have pretty much nailed it.
I guess for me, if this is pretty much a permanent mount I wouldn't have used wing-nuts and locking nuts instead, and perhaps applied a little adhesive in the central area to ensure the panel doesn't "vibrate" and weaken the internal crystalline structure via venturi effect. (My wind tunnel is down at the moment and I can't test - j/k).
If the panel goes bad I am not wasting much money throwing away the insulated backing along with it... as to warranty replacement, yeah they are going to want a pristine panel so maybe no adhesive or something that can be peeled off if / when needed.
Anyway, this is one of the best thought out installation ideas I have ever seen!! -Many Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Some panels are noy crystaline at all and are a bit more hardy. They are amorphous panels. As for warranty...many companies are now reluctant to help the DIY'r. On the bright side, if you purchase quality equipment...panels, controller, inverter and batteries...you will likely not need a warranty.
I took this idea and applied it to my Canper Van.. Thanks Man..
You're welcome! Have you seen this one? ua-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/v-deo.html
I've got a Class B with a bunch of stuff on the roof, not much room left and not flat. I've installed as many conventional panels as I could fit using brackets. With this new method, I believe can add some skinny flexible panels around the AC in the back. Thanks for this great idea! I already used a variant of your roof cable access method.
I suggest you replace the wing-nuts with a nut with nylon lock thus eliminating the need for locktite. These nuts are available in stainless steel in most if not all metric and sae sizes. I have even seen a wing-nut version but these maybe hard to find particularly in stainless.
Thanks. This one is actually clearer to see orientation than the new improved method video.
I love this setup!... I'm just brainstorming ways to quickly cover up the panels in the event of hail. Inevitable where I live.
Been coping this exactly today as a project. Really helped seeing where you got stuff and all the steps
Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions about my setup.