Brian, I am happy you posted this video. After I watched your first video on mounting solar panels on channel strut, I decided to do the same. However, after speaking with a professional installer, I opted to drill a few holes to provide additional support. The installer said he had seen panels detach from RV roofs, particularly rubber roofs. Also, I spoke with 3M engineers who said 3M did not recommend using their VHB tape for solar panel roof mounting since they had not done the type of testing necessary to validate its suitability. In addition, I leaned there are several types of VHB tape for different type applications, some for metal-to-metal bonding, others for metal to non-metal materials, etc. 3M also recommended a primer to strengthen the bond to certain non-metallic surfaces. I used solid aluminum channel (without the slots), a 45 mill thickness VHB tape for metal to non-metal applications, a 3M primer applied to my EPDM roof, and drilled three holes in each piece of strut, one at each end and one in the middle. Everything has held up fine so far.
Back in my solar installer days, I was often asked to do RV installs. I did at least 50 modules of various sizes on various types roofs. My first way to do it was to work off of a roof rack, if there was one. Most often though I used EPDM rubber "donuts", 7/16" dia., that had a brass 1/4" threaded insert bonded into them. I'd bolt my stand off legs to the modules first, then when on the roof and where I wanted them (away from shadowing structures as much as possible) I'd drill thru my braket legs into the roof with a 1/4" drill, all 4, then shift it enough to enlarge the hole to 7/16", and with a twisting motion insert the rubber bushing into the roof, re-position the module, and using 3/4" stainless 1/4" bolts, torque them down. NO caulk, no leaks, and never had one come loose. I bench tested the holding power of them first of course, to prove the concept to myself. Your no fastener at all method is yet another approach. For the last 5 years or more, my go to caulk OR glue is a product called Lexal, I get it at Ace Hardware. It outperforms silicone types hands down, and it's best described as an "adhesive caulk." It stays pliable, is crystal clear (or white) and is especially rated for any plastic to any other plastic, though I use it about anywhere.
@@RVwithTito They are hard to find, short of a specialty commercial hardware outfit , like Fastenal, even then you have to order them in. Lexal spendy? I like the smaller tubes, rather than the caulk gun sizes, they are less then 10 bucks I think, worth it! I have used it on my LSA plane a lot, one favorite trick is, for instance, when routing something like a GPS or Sirius SAT radio coax cable inside the cabin, rather than use mechanical fasteners of some type, I use the clear Lexal, just a dab every few inches, and some masking tape until it sets up. Next day, tape off, cable stays put and you can't see the Lexal.
Tito: thank you for your never-ending ideas. I'm grateful to you for your idea of mounting flexible panels on the corrugated plastic cardboard....a brilliant solution!
VHB worked well for us. We did not need track but had extra large brackets. We even had ours set a little high to ensure the panels didn't overheat. Did the whole Alaska loop over 5 months and all was well.
Tito, I used your last system (aluminum T-track and VHB tape) to install 850 watts of solar on my Leisure Travel Van and after 30,000 miles it was still solid. I did add a few bolts in strategic spots where the T-track didn’t perfectly follow the curve of the roof. With 8000+ watt-hours of 24v lithium BigBattery and the converter from the alternator, I could go indefinitely without plugging in. I didn’t even have a generator on that rig. Thanks for the great insights!
@@joeboxter3635 Over a 24 hour period, we typically run the batteries down about 15%-20%. During the day, we charge batteries from the chassis alternator (about 40 amps) and the solar arrays (the 850 watts usually produces 300-500 watts in most conditions). With a few hours of driving and/or some decent sunlight, we get that 20% back within four to six hours. We’re essentially able to go indefinitely without shore power. Of course, running the AC changes everything. I get 2-4 hours before the batteries are depleted with the AC running.
I started watching you ~6 years ago as I was learning about solar. I did a “chase the sun” system out of fear of drilling holes & leaks. I applaud your experience and follow up. I am looking at a permanent installation on our new tt but very cautiously evaluating which way. Thanks again for the follow up.
hmm.... for solving some issues like: - having options to re-do panel configuration in future, - better height for improved hot air escape etc. P/Starb + B/Stern mounting solution- might could solve above - Permanent Base Rails @ P/Starb direction : mount like you did; one's chosen rail system, across roof in Port to Starboard direction (P/Starb) at a measured planned distance apart... say from bow end of roof, bond permanently rails in P/Starb direction, every 2 feet? Do this all way to the back Bow to Stern. - Reconfigurable upper rails @ B/Stern direction : atop Permanent Base rails; using that rails bolt on mount system, place sections of rails that run Bow to Stern (B/Stern). Place these sections to match where needed for panel mounting, All the panels etc. are mounted with these upper B/Stern rails. Bolt atop the Base; where needed, some small P/Starb, or B/Stern sections of rail , to use for clamping the panels on an edge where needed. Now your panels are further off roof by 0.50 to 0.75 inches than just one rail as you did . This should aid heat escape issue.. AND best of all... now your panel lay out is completely reconfigurable. Just unbolt Bow/Stern rails from their Permanent Base Rail and move them, and the panel attached to them, to where newly desired. Hmmm on second thought. for those with curved RV roofs etc.. the Permanent base rails going P/Starb may need to be in sections and not one rail all the way across in order to help deal with the curve. ... or guess one could slice the vertical sides of Base Rail in a few places allowing one to bend the bottom face till whole thing matches the roofs' curve. Luckily a problem I wont have with my Ambulance boxes flat roof..
I recently did the same with strut and VHB tape, added 3, 210 watt panels, but I did run a few large screws to each rail. I used silicone rubber to secure each long side.
I'm glad u put the scews in your roof. No matter what, relying on just adhesive strength is risky, especially for this application. Also, high quality stainless steel mounting hardware and tilt bars can be purchased from AM Solar.
Tito I too added screws almost right away after using the 3M tape. Though the tape will not let go I started seeing videos of winnebago roof repairs where the layers separated in the wind or going down the road. I also thought the panels would put even more force helping cause a separation. So I added a screw to each panel leg
Thank you for another great video. Living in Arizona, I’ve always been afraid to glue things on /down for fear our extreme heat will loosen it up. I love the way you describe things. Thank you again.
Hi Brian! I’ve been watching your vids for a couple years now. I thought I was already subscribed, but turns out I wasn’t, so I just subscribed! I always come back to watch some of your older vids, like this one, because you do a very thorough job of describing your DIY process. Thanks again and I hope your rv solar system is still holding up well. Take care and keep doing what you’re doing. God bless!
I just found your video and thanks for your video. It’s I’m getting ready to buy a Provo 1980 or 90 and I want to put a solar panel on top like yours. Where did you buy yours at if you don’t care did gonna be 40 or 45 foot?
Tito your an excellent Mechanic in whatever you do. You remind me of myself I like suspenders and a belt when your mounting something like that to the roof ya never know. Thanks for all your very detailed videos
Your solar panels look really nice Brian. They're never gonna go anywhere! I'm glad they're working out really well for you. Keep up the great work and please stay safe and healthy God bless.🙏🏻👍
@@RVwithTito 🇦🇺 plenty of sun down under. Yep I’ve turned blue as well, I’ve done exactly the same thing with my solar, but I use ground panels because I park in the shade. It gets hot in AUS. 🍻🌮
Yes on rubber roof didnt feel confident with just VHB tape. my roof has 1/8 inch wood substrate. Screws have torn out under high wind. So I use Well nuts that grip under the surface of the wood and tpo. So far excellent with the T track.
At 14:20 it shows 4 MPPT, 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. these are the 4 MPPT 100/50. what if you bought two MPPT 150/35. if two of the solar panels are put in series the current would remain at about 11 A. but the VOC would be about 49.1v + 49.1v. = 100 v. The MPPT 150/35 would give room to grow in case you replace with 490 w or above. The panels in series would be the ones with 36w panel + 113w panel (giving the MPPT a chance to work) perhaps bringing them both above 100 w giving 200 w. I'm assuming the 36w panel is being shaded in some way of course!, but the MPPT would bring voltage up! This is a test you could do. Most don't understand what I'm suggesting here and may sound nuts, but that is what MPPT's are supposed to do. you can test it. So on a day where you get 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. you can video the wattage like normal. Then disconnect all MPPT, connect the panels giving LOW and HIGH voltage in series, and install the two MPPT 150/35. So two panels to one MPPT and the other two panels to the other MPPT making sure the panels giving the low voltage and high voltage are put in series. and see what happens.
The video clip you mention was on a day parked in the woods (heavily shaded - future video). I just added it here to show the display. Definitely not normal conditions. These are 425 Watt panels with over 70VOC each and a potential output current (after MPPT) of around 46A at 12V.
Hi Tito, guess my other comment on the first install of these panels hasn't been read but you've done what I saw as a potential lift and your solution of the leading edge baffle in a word, excellent! Unfortunately to tilt the panels means a trip to the roof each time, this is where the solar panel side shade idea you had would be less work to aim at the sun and keep the side of the RV cooler being shaded by the panels. The side mount with your baffle is just getting better, I finished my initial lithium battery install yesterday so my project is moving forward. Thanks for your tips and insight.
You and other few UA-camrs inspired me do a big solar install of 3800w with sliding panels. I also used VHB tape and later found need a few screws. But with my 3800w, the best I have ever seen is about 2000~2500w.
Cosine error will kill the efficiency of a flat roof solar install especially in the winter. The panels need to be facing perpendicular to the sun for full output. You’ll lose 30% of your power at a 45 deg angle, and 65% at a 20 deg angle.
@@stargazer7644 I understand. That's for sure in winter time. But the number I refered to (2-2.5 kw) is in summer time which the cosine error is relatively small. Recent days (November), I am getting only 1600 to 1800w now. 😅
@@timmysrvlife Are you using an MPPT (tracking) controller? That will also make a significant difference. Make sure there are no shadows at all on your panels. Even just the slight shadow of a power line or a guy wire or antenna or bird droppings across any part of a panel will drastically reduce the entire panel (or string) output by partially shading one or more cells since they're in series.
Brian, the slope to the roof to which you referred is called "tumblehome." At least, that is the engineering term used in the automobile industry. You will make yourself clearly understood when discussing this aspect of your vehicle with automotive engineers and designers.
Have you noticed any water pooling next to the struts causing a dam effect? I’m thinking about doing this, but raising the struts 2/4 inch using washers under the attachment points.
👍 Nice job, thanks. I plan on doing that very same mounting technique as to allow for some of those appliance lifting air bags to be utilized underneath the panels (cross member mid way with plate) to raise the panel. A spring or springs would work to keep the panel wind safe while stationary and some quick type of lock downs for traveling. As you have two rows of panels a simple selection valve at the air pump would suffice. Combine the air bag release tubes together and have a single going to a convenient place to lower. A proper timer to the pump could be programmed for it to "follow" the sun, and just drop them back down in the morning.
Lock washers next to the bracket are pretty useless(if not counter productive) on the bolt head in a pivot. L washers are meant to dig in to stop rotation. I would suggest going with nylock nuts instead. ( A locknut with a nylon insert) and ditch the lock washers in that situation. A flat washer in place of the L washers would be a better arrangement. If you used nut-serts in the panel, a dab of blue lock-tite would be appropriate.
Hi guys, I am so glad it as worked out well I’m doing mine soon and will definitely copy your way. I really don’t want to drill my roof in our caravan so I won’t copy you there but the rest great. Also using the plastic guttering is a great idea but I won’t be doing that as our temperatures here in Australia can get very high and I think we should use the breeze to keep it a bit cooler. So thanks for all your ideas and may you both stay safe. 🇦🇺Jon
Brian, thanks for this great info. I’ve noticed that there are many versions of VHB Tape. Could you let us know which model of tape you used? Thanks again.
Hi Brian! Thanks allot for the update, Thanks to you I'm planning to add a solar sistem on my Semi Truck cab. Please keep up with the great projects you do.
I only realised recently that the single solar panel on my motorhome has just been glued down with no drilling. Its a 2008 model motorhome. I wish i knew what adhesive they used.
I like the idea of no drilling but eventually the adhesive will give up due to temp changes. Even tiles on the shuttle eventually came loose. I would have a safety leash for when they come loose so no one dies on the highway.
Just wondering. Is the roof on your motor home a pebble grain or smooth. I want to use VHT tape but the roof on my new coach is pebble grain. In the past I used the tape on a smooth Tiffin Wayfarer roof and it stayed put after almost 3 1/2 years. Thanks in advance.
Was wondering why you didn't just use one of the K2 system rails which are aluminum made for home rooftop solar. Price is about the same as the rails you got from Home Depot. Santan solar sells the K2 system made for bolting down to metal roofs called the MiniRail XPRess.
Thanks for the great videos! Just curious what size mounting brackets you used initially and also on the higher ones you updated in this video? Thank you!!
Brian, great video. Thank you for posting your diagram for download- I just got it. I’m looking at putting the sore on my fifth wheel now and have been trying to find a high power solution what’s up having solar panels everywhere. Thank you for all you’ve done
I'm glad I saw this video! I saw your earlier one and was all set to do a no drill mounting of my panels but then I saw this one and you mentioned the delamination problem that I would run into with the rubber roof. I guess I'm just not feeling great about the idea of having to drill 48 holes into my roof instead of using the strut channel solution.
I didn’t have as good success. I followed your previous install with flexible panels to the T and first trip out 2 days ago lost a solar panel on I5 south near Toledo WA.
QQQ At what point do you decide you need to tilt? How much improvement do you see when you tilt? Have you ever considered tilting all 4 at the same time?
The improvement can be significant 10-25%. If I tilt them a little higher then I might get more. It's typically something you consider doing in the winter months when the sun is lower on the horizon. If I'm staying somewhere for a longer period (at least a week) then I'll consider tilting the outer panels to face the sun. I haven't had the need to tilt all four since one side will be slightly tilted to the sun anyway. Plus they might block the other side if tilted.
The improvement is the cosine of the angle to the sun. So if the sun is at a 45 deg angle, you get cos(45)=70% output. You’d get 30% more lifting the panel 45 deg. In winter at high latitudes the difference could be 60%. In summer at low latitudes it is much less.
Brian, don't all these roofs have some sort of framing in their ceiling, even if it's sparse? Wouldn't a screw into the framing be better (if we could figure out where it is)?
Not sure. If so I couldn't tell you where. Initially I hoped to screw into some kind of support. I believe it's the fiberglass and curve of the roof that gives it it's strength.
Hi Brian, have a Renogy 200 watt solar suitcase, it has a charge controller. What I wanted to ask or if anyone would know, can I take out the charge controller, and just connect MC4 connectors to the junction box????. Dave ( UK ).
Thanks for the followup, I plan on putting solar on my motor home whenever the heat breaks, and I'm going to follow your idea. Just out of curiosity, did you just put the screws in out of an abundance of caution, or were starting to notice some delamination of the filon or the unistrut? I really don't want any holes in my roof, even if I have to put more unistrut on it.
Someone recommended I try it a while back instead of Dicor. So I have been. Here it is: amzn.to/3wU5UJt It works just as well plus you get more and it stores easily for repeat applications.
I chose SunPower because I'm familiar with the cell technology and quality. I've seen them come and go from the used SanTan stock and debated on buying more. I'm not familiar with the other used inventory and their used. They do have spec sheets for their panels and also provide a one year warranty on all of their used panels. I also researched the specific panel and manufacturer to see what others said about them. Some folks have told me that Canadian Solar is a good quality and inexpensive option, but I don't have any first-hand experience with them. One recommendation is to pick them up in Arizona or Georgia if possible. You'll save a few hundred bucks in freight chargers. Good luck!
Another great video! I have learned a lot from you and I just purchased a 2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V. I have a quick question though concerning your 50 Amp service. My rig came from the factory with a 30 amp cable, but the transfer switch shows it is 110/240 50 amp. Did you have to change your cable out or did your rig already have the 4 wire 50 amp?
Hi Brian. What make and model is your RV? Is it Canadian built as opposed to US given that it has a fibreglass roof in stead of a rubber roof? Thank you for taking the time to make and share your videos..
Always impressed with your projects, and innovative design and installs. Glad to hear it held up so well and just proves you really know what you are doing. Nice job and thanks for the videos.
We need more RVs that are entirely off grid; more solar, larger battery compartments, larger propane containers, recycled water system for the grey tank (sinks, shower, washer) that reuses the water and filters it (easy cleanable filters), air to water systems that generate 5 to 10 gallons of water a day (filtered), "Cinderella Propane Incinerating Toilet or Composting Toilets (get rid of black tanks)" hot water on demand, mini-wood stoves with electric heating to reduce the massive condensation from propane heating, and more.
I have 2ea 3ft x 5 foot 285 watt panels I'm putting on my 38 ft Newmar. It's got the rubber roof so I'm screwing them down. You got rid of your antenna and satellite. What are you using for reception?
No need for TV or Satellite. We stream all of our entertainment and don't use the antenna or satellite. Check out the install video and you'll see me remove those antennas.
The flex panels went with our class C when it was sold earlier this year. Still a good solution for that rig...the new owner loves it. I still have some flex panels, but the class A had lots of space available. So I wanted to find some large panels to maximize my energy density. You won't find anything like that in a flex module.
Larger panels have higher energy density (more power per sq ft). I recommend getting the largest panels you can to fit your layout. Fewer panels also means less mounting requirements.
Brian, another great video. It doesn’t look like you have air conditioners up on your roof. Is this so? Did you remove them? How do you deal with the heat? Looking forward to seeing your video on your other solar components especially how the Multi Plus II has performed.
Peter is correct. Our A/C heatpump unit is in the basement. That was a feature I really love about this rig. In case you're wondering...yes I can run the A/C with my setup. I don't even need a soft start to fire it up.
@@stewartmhyre1528 Coleman basement AC has two compressors, and most RV builders bolted them in not a slide out rack for repairs and cleaning and service. They are not easy to drop and repair. Also AZ Expert has shown his channel over the years they have had circuit board issues and updates. Not a lot of room to work.
Great follow-up review. I can't recall if you purchased the SUNPower as used or new? What would a good source be? I will be going full time off grid next year.
Hi Brian, I am a new subscriber and curious to know why you gave up on the FLEXIBLE SOLAR PANELS (SUNPOWER in your case)? Have some unforeseen cons shown up? Which were they? I am asking this question, as I have a solar power-up project ahead of me and my main concern is the weight of the superstructure that I am going to add on top of my camper.
Probably. I've only done it on mine. One reason I kept the panels lower was to minimize any upward pulling at high speeds. So be aware of the aerodynamics of your bus and how the wind will hit the panels from the front or side.
Brian, I am happy you posted this video. After I watched your first video on mounting solar panels on channel strut, I decided to do the same. However, after speaking with a professional installer, I opted to drill a few holes to provide additional support. The installer said he had seen panels detach from RV roofs, particularly rubber roofs. Also, I spoke with 3M engineers who said 3M did not recommend using their VHB tape for solar panel roof mounting since they had not done the type of testing necessary to validate its suitability. In addition, I leaned there are several types of VHB tape for different type applications, some for metal-to-metal bonding, others for metal to non-metal materials, etc. 3M also recommended a primer to strengthen the bond to certain non-metallic surfaces. I used solid aluminum channel (without the slots), a 45 mill thickness VHB tape for metal to non-metal applications, a 3M primer applied to my EPDM roof, and drilled three holes in each piece of strut, one at each end and one in the middle. Everything has held up fine so far.
Thanks for sharing that additional information. Great job!
Back in my solar installer days, I was often asked to do RV installs. I did at least 50 modules of various sizes on various types roofs. My first way to do it was to work off of a roof rack, if there was one. Most often though I used EPDM rubber "donuts", 7/16" dia., that had a brass 1/4" threaded insert bonded into them. I'd bolt my stand off legs to the modules first, then when on the roof and where I wanted them (away from shadowing structures as much as possible) I'd drill thru my braket legs into the roof with a 1/4" drill, all 4, then shift it enough to enlarge the hole to 7/16", and with a twisting motion insert the rubber bushing into the roof, re-position the module, and using 3/4" stainless 1/4" bolts, torque them down. NO caulk, no leaks, and never had one come loose. I bench tested the holding power of them first of course, to prove the concept to myself. Your no fastener at all method is yet another approach. For the last 5 years or more, my go to caulk OR glue is a product called Lexal, I get it at Ace Hardware. It outperforms silicone types hands down, and it's best described as an "adhesive caulk." It stays pliable, is crystal clear (or white) and is especially rated for any plastic to any other plastic, though I use it about anywhere.
Great info. Thanks! I found the Lexel (spendy) and will have to look into those rubber donuts.
@@RVwithTito They are hard to find, short of a specialty commercial hardware outfit , like Fastenal, even then you have to order them in. Lexal spendy? I like the smaller tubes, rather than the caulk gun sizes, they are less then 10 bucks I think, worth it! I have used it on my LSA plane a lot, one favorite trick is, for instance, when routing something like a GPS or Sirius SAT radio coax cable inside the cabin, rather than use mechanical fasteners of some type, I use the clear Lexal, just a dab every few inches, and some masking tape until it sets up. Next day, tape off, cable stays put and you can't see the Lexal.
@@portnuefflyer Hmm. That cable routing idea sounds interesting. I'll have to try that. Thanks!
Tito: thank you for your never-ending ideas. I'm grateful to you for your idea of mounting flexible panels on the corrugated plastic cardboard....a brilliant solution!
Thanks for the update, it’s always great to hear how things are working almost a year down the road. Great job and great video
Glad you liked it. I'm glad things are holding up well.
VHB worked well for us. We did not need track but had extra large brackets. We even had ours set a little high to ensure the panels didn't overheat. Did the whole Alaska loop over 5 months and all was well.
Nice! Good to hear.
Tito, I used your last system (aluminum T-track and VHB tape) to install 850 watts of solar on my Leisure Travel Van and after 30,000 miles it was still solid. I did add a few bolts in strategic spots where the T-track didn’t perfectly follow the curve of the roof. With 8000+ watt-hours of 24v lithium BigBattery and the converter from the alternator, I could go indefinitely without plugging in. I didn’t even have a generator on that rig. Thanks for the great insights!
That's nice to hear. I appreciate that 30K miles follow up. Great job!
How do you bet 8000wh out of 850w. That'd be 10 hours of sunlight and 94+% effective.
@@joeboxter3635 Over a 24 hour period, we typically run the batteries down about 15%-20%. During the day, we charge batteries from the chassis alternator (about 40 amps) and the solar arrays (the 850 watts usually produces 300-500 watts in most conditions). With a few hours of driving and/or some decent sunlight, we get that 20% back within four to six hours. We’re essentially able to go indefinitely without shore power. Of course, running the AC changes everything. I get 2-4 hours before the batteries are depleted with the AC running.
Hi tito from the UK..was watching you putting these on , can't believe its a year ago, I'm getting old too quick 😂
Almost a year...I installed them in late Sept but didn't release the video right away.
I started watching you ~6 years ago as I was learning about solar. I did a “chase the sun” system out of fear of drilling holes & leaks. I applaud your experience and follow up. I am looking at a permanent installation on our new tt but very cautiously evaluating which way. Thanks again for the follow up.
Thanks for following along. Good luck with the project!
hmm.... for solving some issues like:
- having options to re-do panel configuration in future,
- better height for improved hot air escape etc.
P/Starb + B/Stern mounting solution- might could solve above
- Permanent Base Rails @ P/Starb direction :
mount like you did; one's chosen rail system, across roof in Port to Starboard direction (P/Starb) at a measured planned distance apart... say from bow end of roof, bond permanently rails in P/Starb direction, every 2 feet? Do this all way to the back Bow to Stern.
- Reconfigurable upper rails @ B/Stern direction :
atop Permanent Base rails; using that rails bolt on mount system, place sections of rails that run Bow to Stern (B/Stern). Place these sections to match where needed for panel mounting, All the panels etc. are mounted with these upper B/Stern rails. Bolt atop the Base; where needed, some small P/Starb, or B/Stern sections of rail , to use for clamping the panels on an edge where needed.
Now your panels are further off roof by 0.50 to 0.75 inches than just one rail as you did . This should aid heat escape issue.. AND best of all... now your panel lay out is completely reconfigurable. Just unbolt Bow/Stern rails from their Permanent Base Rail and move them, and the panel attached to them, to where newly desired.
Hmmm on second thought. for those with curved RV roofs etc.. the Permanent base rails going P/Starb may need to be in sections and not one rail all the way across in order to help deal with the curve. ... or guess one could slice the vertical sides of Base Rail in a few places allowing one to bend the bottom face till whole thing matches the roofs' curve. Luckily a problem I wont have with my Ambulance boxes flat roof..
Paul Simon's illegitimate son can really rock the solar! Cheers!
That's a first. I can see it 😀
Rainy day, good chance to catch up on my favorite you tubers. Impressive results on that system.
Enjoy! 😊
I recently did the same with strut and VHB tape, added 3, 210 watt panels, but I did run a few large screws to each rail. I used silicone rubber to secure each long side.
Great. Hope they last a long time for you.
I'm glad u put the scews in your roof. No matter what, relying on just adhesive strength is risky, especially for this application. Also, high quality stainless steel mounting hardware and tilt bars can be purchased from AM Solar.
Very cool, just one note....ANYTHING not aluminum or s/s will soon enough drip rusty lines down your RV if not handled...
Glad you posted follow up video. Glad it still hanging in there.
Thank you.
Tito I too added screws almost right away after using the 3M tape. Though the tape will not let go I started seeing videos of winnebago roof repairs where the layers separated in the wind or going down the road. I also thought the panels would put even more force helping cause a separation. So I added a screw to each panel leg
Yeah. I feel better about it now...same reasons.
Very nice DIY install. I like to see the innovation of using other parts in different systems. Love the tilt option. Great job.
Glad you like it! That tilt option makes a big difference this time of year.
Thank you for another great video. Living in Arizona, I’ve always been afraid to glue things on /down for fear our extreme heat will loosen it up.
I love the way you describe things.
Thank you again.
Hi Brian! I’ve been watching your vids for a couple years now. I thought I was already subscribed, but turns out I wasn’t, so I just subscribed! I always come back to watch some of your older vids, like this one, because you do a very thorough job of describing your DIY process. Thanks again and I hope your rv solar system is still holding up well. Take care and keep doing what you’re doing. God bless!
Genius little rain gutter hijacking there ... that was good thinking...
Thanks. Only $5 for the 8ft section of gutter.
I just found your video and thanks for your video. It’s I’m getting ready to buy a Provo 1980 or 90 and I want to put a solar panel on top like yours. Where did you buy yours at if you don’t care did gonna be 40 or 45 foot?
The solar panels? I got them from SanTan Solar in AZ.
I've used Silicon mounting pads for many years on several trailers that travel year round. Never had any issues at all.
Great to hear. I can't see these coming off without my help.
Tito your an excellent Mechanic in whatever you do. You remind me of myself I like suspenders and a belt when your mounting something like that to the roof ya never know. Thanks for all your very detailed videos
Thanks!
Your solar panels look really nice Brian. They're never gonna go anywhere! I'm glad they're working out really well for you. Keep up the great work and please stay safe and healthy God bless.🙏🏻👍
Thanks. Yeah there solid.
Good job, solar controller for each panel. Perfect. Victron rocks….👍
Totally agree. Once you go blue, eventually everything turns blue.
@@RVwithTito
🇦🇺 plenty of sun down under.
Yep I’ve turned blue as well, I’ve done exactly the same thing with my solar, but I use ground panels because I park in the shade. It gets hot in AUS. 🍻🌮
Yes on rubber roof didnt feel confident with just VHB tape. my roof has 1/8 inch wood substrate. Screws have torn out under high wind. So I use Well nuts that grip under the surface of the wood and tpo. So far excellent with the T track.
At 14:20 it shows 4 MPPT, 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. these are the 4 MPPT 100/50.
what if you bought two MPPT 150/35.
if two of the solar panels are put in series the current would remain at about 11 A. but the VOC would be about 49.1v + 49.1v. = 100 v.
The MPPT 150/35 would give room to grow in case you replace with 490 w or above.
The panels in series would be the ones with 36w panel + 113w panel (giving the MPPT a chance to work) perhaps bringing them both above 100 w giving 200 w.
I'm assuming the 36w panel is being shaded in some way of course!, but the MPPT would bring voltage up!
This is a test you could do.
Most don't understand what I'm suggesting here and may sound nuts, but that is what MPPT's are supposed to do. you can test it.
So on a day where you get 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. you can video the wattage like normal.
Then disconnect all MPPT, connect the panels giving LOW and HIGH voltage in series, and install the two MPPT 150/35. So two panels to one MPPT and the other two panels to the other MPPT making sure the panels giving the low voltage and high voltage are put in series.
and see what happens.
The video clip you mention was on a day parked in the woods (heavily shaded - future video). I just added it here to show the display. Definitely not normal conditions. These are 425 Watt panels with over 70VOC each and a potential output current (after MPPT) of around 46A at 12V.
Hi Tito, guess my other comment on the first install of these panels hasn't been read but you've done what I saw as a potential lift and your solution of the leading edge baffle in a word, excellent!
Unfortunately to tilt the panels means a trip to the roof each time, this is where the solar panel side shade idea you had would be less work to aim at the sun and keep the side of the RV cooler being shaded by the panels.
The side mount with your baffle is just getting better, I finished my initial lithium battery install yesterday so my project is moving forward.
Thanks for your tips and insight.
You and other few UA-camrs inspired me do a big solar install of 3800w with sliding panels. I also used VHB tape and later found need a few screws. But with my 3800w, the best I have ever seen is about 2000~2500w.
Cosine error will kill the efficiency of a flat roof solar install especially in the winter. The panels need to be facing perpendicular to the sun for full output. You’ll lose 30% of your power at a 45 deg angle, and 65% at a 20 deg angle.
@@stargazer7644 I understand. That's for sure in winter time. But the number I refered to (2-2.5 kw) is in summer time which the cosine error is relatively small. Recent days (November), I am getting only 1600 to 1800w now. 😅
@@timmysrvlife Are you using an MPPT (tracking) controller? That will also make a significant difference. Make sure there are no shadows at all on your panels. Even just the slight shadow of a power line or a guy wire or antenna or bird droppings across any part of a panel will drastically reduce the entire panel (or string) output by partially shading one or more cells since they're in series.
You are amazing, you think about everything. Please open up a custom upgrade gadget install shop.
I wish. Can barely get my RV down our road :)
Brian, the slope to the roof to which you referred is called "tumblehome." At least, that is the engineering term used in the automobile industry. You will make yourself clearly understood when discussing this aspect of your vehicle with automotive engineers and designers.
Didn't know that. Thanks! Creates added strength I'm sure.
Have you noticed any water pooling next to the struts causing a dam effect? I’m thinking about doing this, but raising the struts 2/4 inch using washers under the attachment points.
👍 Nice job, thanks. I plan on doing that very same mounting technique as to allow for some of those appliance lifting air bags to be utilized underneath the panels (cross member mid way with plate) to raise the panel. A spring or springs would work to keep the panel wind safe while stationary and some quick type of lock downs for traveling. As you have two rows of panels a simple selection valve at the air pump would suffice. Combine the air bag release tubes together and have a single going to a convenient place to lower. A proper timer to the pump could be programmed for it to "follow" the sun, and just drop them back down in the morning.
Lock washers next to the bracket are pretty useless(if not counter productive) on the bolt head in a pivot. L washers are meant to dig in to stop rotation. I would suggest going with nylock nuts instead. ( A locknut with a nylon insert) and ditch the lock washers in that situation. A flat washer in place of the L washers would be a better arrangement. If you used nut-serts in the panel, a dab of blue lock-tite would be appropriate.
Looks good, I also purchased a newer rv and have to do this job over.
Good luck. Sometimes it's nice to apply new knowledge to a new project though.
I think you did a good job, long rail fitted with a good glue all the way that will make a strong attach to the roof.
Thanks. I think it's held up pretty well and we've been through some extreme conditions.
Hi guys, I am so glad it as worked out well I’m doing mine soon and will definitely copy your way. I really don’t want to drill my roof in our caravan so I won’t copy you there but the rest great. Also using the plastic guttering is a great idea but I won’t be doing that as our temperatures here in Australia can get very high and I think we should use the breeze to keep it a bit cooler. So thanks for all your ideas and may you both stay safe. 🇦🇺Jon
really interesting video. thank you for sharing. how often do you end up tilting the panels to maximize the input?
Often in the winter months when the sun is lower.
What exactly did you drill into to make it seem more secure for you? It sounds like you just drilled into 3 inches of foam board and 1/4 inch plywood?
Just a comment on the wind baffles. We lost one panel in the desert because the wind came from the rear end of the trailer. Blew it right off.
Yikes. We've been in some heavy gusts as well. Luckily dirty is all we got.
Brian, thanks for this great info. I’ve noticed that there are many versions of VHB Tape. Could you let us know which model of tape you used? Thanks again.
I used 1.5" RP62, but it's really hard to find now unless you buy in bulk (amzn.to/3Ywprfi)
Such great ideas and clever building. Not to mention good video footage and editing. Thank you!
I really appreciate that. Thanks!
What brand are those Solar panels? 12V, 24V 48V ?
They are commercial SunPower Panels at 72V
I love your channel. You’re so friendly and your information is useful.
Awwe :) I appreciate that.
Thank you very much Tito, I am at that stage in my RV and the video has been very illustrative.
Great to hear. Good luck with your projects.
Como pasaste los cables desde el techo hasta el interior de la van sin hacer rotos?
Hi Brian!
Thanks allot for the update, Thanks to you I'm planning to add a solar sistem on my Semi Truck cab.
Please keep up with the great projects you do.
Awesome. Good luck! Have you considered Merlin solar merlinsolar.com/tractor-semi-class-8/
Is the hassle of climbing on the roof worth it, installing the riser brackets to tilt panels for optimal charging? How much more power do you get?
Actually think your tape method is stronger then using wood screws into that thin plywood.
I only realised recently that the single solar panel on my motorhome has just been glued down with no drilling.
Its a 2008 model motorhome.
I wish i knew what adhesive they used.
I like the idea of no drilling but eventually the adhesive will give up due to temp changes. Even tiles on the shuttle eventually came loose. I would have a safety leash for when they come loose so no one dies on the highway.
What was the total cost of all the DIY materials?
well done explanation. no annoying music either
Just wondering. Is the roof on your motor home a pebble grain or smooth. I want to use VHT tape but the roof on my new coach is pebble grain. In the past I used the tape on a smooth Tiffin Wayfarer roof and it stayed put after almost 3 1/2 years. Thanks in advance.
mine is smooth.
Was wondering why you didn't just use one of the K2 system rails which are aluminum made for home rooftop solar. Price is about the same as the rails you got from Home Depot. Santan solar sells the K2 system made for bolting down to metal roofs called the MiniRail XPRess.
Wonderful! I need a list of all these staff ;)
Ok, so, another year in ..... How is it all holding up? Still happy with the VHB tape? and problems with the install? TIA!
No issues. Holding strong after Alaska to Southern Baja and back.
Thanks for the great videos! Just curious what size mounting brackets you used initially and also on the higher ones you updated in this video? Thank you!!
The smaller ones were about 2" and the larger ones were about 3"
Brian, great video. Thank you for posting your diagram for download- I just got it. I’m looking at putting the sore on my fifth wheel now and have been trying to find a high power solution what’s up having solar panels everywhere. Thank you for all you’ve done
Great! Let me know if there's something missing from the diagram or equipment list. I'll try and keep it updated.
I'm glad I saw this video! I saw your earlier one and was all set to do a no drill mounting of my panels but then I saw this one and you mentioned the delamination problem that I would run into with the rubber roof. I guess I'm just not feeling great about the idea of having to drill 48 holes into my roof instead of using the strut channel solution.
Yeah. The track is a great solution for multiple panels and also allows for greater flexibility down the road. Good luck!
I didn’t have as good success. I followed your previous install with flexible panels to the T and first trip out 2 days ago lost a solar panel on I5 south near Toledo WA.
QQQ At what point do you decide you need to tilt?
How much improvement do you see when you tilt?
Have you ever considered tilting all 4 at the same time?
The improvement can be significant 10-25%. If I tilt them a little higher then I might get more. It's typically something you consider doing in the winter months when the sun is lower on the horizon. If I'm staying somewhere for a longer period (at least a week) then I'll consider tilting the outer panels to face the sun. I haven't had the need to tilt all four since one side will be slightly tilted to the sun anyway. Plus they might block the other side if tilted.
The improvement is the cosine of the angle to the sun. So if the sun is at a 45 deg angle, you get cos(45)=70% output. You’d get 30% more lifting the panel 45 deg. In winter at high latitudes the difference could be 60%. In summer at low latitudes it is much less.
Awesome video Brian! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
It's hilarious you just posted this, I just bought some panels and will be putting some money into my RV and was wondering how this system aged.
Funny. Great timing :) I'm hoping this lasts a long time and don't see why it wouldn't.
Great update video. Like the small changes you made.
Glad you enjoyed it
Definitely do that video on your setup…
Good job Tito love the channel. Hope to see you on the road sometime. I’m on the west coast..👍🏼
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. If you happen to see us, say hi!
Brian, don't all these roofs have some sort of framing in their ceiling, even if it's sparse? Wouldn't a screw into the framing be better (if we could figure out where it is)?
Not sure. If so I couldn't tell you where. Initially I hoped to screw into some kind of support. I believe it's the fiberglass and curve of the roof that gives it it's strength.
Hi Brian, have a Renogy 200 watt solar suitcase, it has a charge controller. What I wanted to ask or if anyone would know, can I take out the charge controller, and just connect MC4 connectors to the junction box????. Dave ( UK ).
Great update. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks Don
You bet
Thank you so much for this follow up! Loved the idea so much I'm doing something almost identical with residential panels on my travel trailer.
Glad it helped. Good luck. I'm doing another one on my garage with the extra panels I have. It should power my shop no problem.
I thought about using dual lock by 3m maybe not the best idea but i would like to know how strong the stuff really is. 73
Why did you replace the flexible panels with these?
Do you have an idea of the total cost to do this? Thank you. Great video
Very nice setup. Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Thanks for the followup, I plan on putting solar on my motor home whenever the heat breaks, and I'm going to follow your idea. Just out of curiosity, did you just put the screws in out of an abundance of caution, or were starting to notice some delamination of the filon or the unistrut? I really don't want any holes in my roof, even if I have to put more unistrut on it.
Just out of an abundance of caution since I knew we'd be hitting some major bumps up north. I figured a little anchor on each end couldn't hurt.
Great video! I like that clean look also. You can't tell that you have solar panels on the roof. Great job!
Yes! Thank you!
That’s great Brian I’m glad it’s working well very nice setup that sealant you were using in that bag what was it I’m curious thanks 😊
Someone recommended I try it a while back instead of Dicor. So I have been. Here it is: amzn.to/3wU5UJt It works just as well plus you get more and it stores easily for repeat applications.
Thanks, that was a great review. Happy camping.
Thanks!
You did a really great job and put a lot of thought into it.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I just checked out SanTan and am overwhelmed by all the different types of solar panels. Can you make a recommendation and why you chose that brand?
I chose SunPower because I'm familiar with the cell technology and quality. I've seen them come and go from the used SanTan stock and debated on buying more. I'm not familiar with the other used inventory and their used. They do have spec sheets for their panels and also provide a one year warranty on all of their used panels. I also researched the specific panel and manufacturer to see what others said about them. Some folks have told me that Canadian Solar is a good quality and inexpensive option, but I don't have any first-hand experience with them. One recommendation is to pick them up in Arizona or Georgia if possible. You'll save a few hundred bucks in freight chargers. Good luck!
Another great video! I have learned a lot from you and I just purchased a 2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V. I have a quick question though concerning your 50 Amp service. My rig came from the factory with a 30 amp cable, but the transfer switch shows it is 110/240 50 amp. Did you have to change your cable out or did your rig already have the 4 wire 50 amp?
Hi Brian. What make and model is your RV? Is it Canadian built as opposed to US given that it has a fibreglass roof in stead of a rubber roof? Thank you for taking the time to make and share your videos..
It's an '03 Winnebago Adventurer. Not Canadian built as far as I know.
Always impressed with your projects, and innovative design and installs. Glad to hear it held up so well and just proves you really know what you are doing. Nice job and thanks for the videos.
You bet. Glad to share :)
We need more RVs that are entirely off grid; more solar, larger battery compartments, larger propane containers, recycled water system for the grey tank (sinks, shower, washer) that reuses the water and filters it (easy cleanable filters), air to water systems that generate 5 to 10 gallons of water a day (filtered), "Cinderella Propane Incinerating Toilet or Composting Toilets (get rid of black tanks)" hot water on demand, mini-wood stoves with electric heating to reduce the massive condensation from propane heating, and more.
I have 2ea 3ft x 5 foot 285 watt panels I'm putting on my 38 ft Newmar. It's got the rubber roof so I'm screwing them down. You got rid of your antenna and satellite. What are you using for reception?
Great update thanks
No need for TV or Satellite. We stream all of our entertainment and don't use the antenna or satellite. Check out the install video and you'll see me remove those antennas.
Does anyone know what happened to the Flex solar panels Brian installed a while ago? Curious to know why he switched back to rigid panels.
The flex panels went with our class C when it was sold earlier this year. Still a good solution for that rig...the new owner loves it. I still have some flex panels, but the class A had lots of space available. So I wanted to find some large panels to maximize my energy density. You won't find anything like that in a flex module.
Were you able to run your A/C off of solar/batteries? Also. remind me where IS your A/C system? (not on the roof)
Oh yeah. Sure we do. It's in the basement and not on the roof. More room for solar.
@@RVwithTito that is awesome, A/C on solar! Genius having A/C in basement seems new rigs should do that, yup more solar on top AND clearance.
My question may have been asked but how do the panels stand up to large hail?
I don't know. I'm sure they have a hail rating but I'd have to dig the up somewhere.
Hi Brian, since you’ve had both smaller and larger panels, which would you buy all over again?
Larger panels have higher energy density (more power per sq ft). I recommend getting the largest panels you can to fit your layout. Fewer panels also means less mounting requirements.
What type of charge controller do you use and how many batteries should I use for a 400 watt system
Here's a DIY kit for you - www.continuousresources.com/collections/solar-kits/products/430w-kit?aff=70
I'd start with 400Ah of lithium batteries.
I have a 1999 Winabego Adventure what year is yours
2003
How does the middle bracket not interfere when you raise the panel?
Nice set up by the way
I loosen up the middle bracket before I tilt it.
Brian, another great video. It doesn’t look like you have air conditioners up on your roof. Is this so? Did you remove them? How do you deal with the heat? Looking forward to seeing your video on your other solar components especially how the Multi Plus II has performed.
The Adventurers of this era had basement A/C units.
Peter is correct. Our A/C heatpump unit is in the basement. That was a feature I really love about this rig. In case you're wondering...yes I can run the A/C with my setup. I don't even need a soft start to fire it up.
@@RVwithTito wow I didn’t know that was something they did. I wonder why there was a change to roof top units
@@stewartmhyre1528 It's great, but everyone asks..."what's that in the back?" It does limit the amount of storage space you'd have I suppose.
@@stewartmhyre1528 Coleman basement AC has two compressors, and most RV builders bolted them in not a slide out rack for repairs and cleaning and service. They are not easy to drop and repair. Also AZ Expert has shown his channel over the years they have had circuit board issues and updates. Not a lot of room to work.
Great follow-up review. I can't recall if you purchased the SUNPower as used or new? What would a good source be? I will be going full time off grid next year.
I purchased them used from SanTan Solar. Availability varies. Here's what they currently have available: rvwithtito.com/santansolar
Always good information! Thanks Brian for sharing 🤙
You bet!
No overheating problems,as very little gap for air flow...
No problems. It's slightly angled with a couple inches on the lower side and 3.5" on the high side.
@@RVwithTito .ok.great.....looking at putting 1 200watt panel...
Hi Brian, I am a new subscriber and curious to know why you gave up on the FLEXIBLE SOLAR PANELS (SUNPOWER in your case)? Have some unforeseen cons shown up? Which were they? I am asking this question, as I have a solar power-up project ahead of me and my main concern is the weight of the superstructure that I am going to add on top of my camper.
Do you think this no drill setup will work with a metal roof on a bus?
Probably. I've only done it on mine. One reason I kept the panels lower was to minimize any upward pulling at high speeds. So be aware of the aerodynamics of your bus and how the wind will hit the panels from the front or side.
How is your battery capacity working out with your solar.
Working great. It has been the perfect amount.