Great video. Thank you. I love the performance of the 2270 but the "338* for 45 seconds" that Epson documents is completely bogus. I appreciate you guiding people in the right direction by suggesting 350* at 115 seconds. For me, it's even more. Even without an underbase, prints don't hold up after one wash for me at anything less than 2 minutes at 350. And I pretreat white shirts as well. I started trying on an 8 foot belt dryer but you have to have the conveyor so slow and temp so high that it becomes pointless. I'm adding a third dehumidifier to the print shop to possibly help.
Keep in mind, if you use standard pretreat on white shirts and don't use white ink the color ink will wash out. There are pretreats for color ink only if you insist on using pretreat for white shirts. Your conveyor dryer must have forced air to fully cure the waterbed print. You can dry it in a standard convection oven but must heat press it afterwards to "cure" the print.
@@MelcoEmbroidery Thanks for the reply. I currently use Epson's cotton pretreatment at the 1 to 9 ratio suggested for light garments. I do have a forced air belt dryer. Working with sensitive tech fabrics, the belt dryer is a must for me. Even at 260 to 280 degrees, 3.7 ounce poly/spandex shows heat lines. I think I will explore some other pretreatments and heed some other advice I received which is to not overheat the pretreat in the heatpress process. Thanks for your help!
Nice Video. Fyi if your Dtf transfer starts to peel after the first press the print is destroyed. You'll find after the first wash that area that peeled will come away
Yes the F1070 is a great starter unit. Keep in mind it's slower than the F2270 and has a limited area of 10x12 but it does DTG and DTF and will always be a productive, reliable unit even if you upgrade down the road.
Yeah the F1070 will print the same high quality, just about 30% slower. But the F1070 is an awesome and affordable little unit. We're taking preorders on Shopmelco and I have a few really detailed videos you can review.
If I am going on vacation for 2 weeks, and the printer is not being used. What is going to prevent the white inks from clogging in the Tubes, Print Head and Capping Station?
Epson ink is less likely to clog than other brands. The printer is designed to be turned off for extended periods of time. If you are gone for 2 weeks you could consider two options. Have someone come in and turn the printer on, let it cycle, then turn it off. I would do that once per week. Or you could replace the white ink and replace with cleaning cartridges. I think that's a little overkill however. Honestly though, you could probably just leave it off. I left the 2100 off for a month last a few years back and it was fine.
Great video on the F2270 DTG and DTF processes! Thanks for posting!
You bet!
amazing stuff - straight to the point. Much appreciated man
That's what I like to hear! Thanks man
Great video. Thank you. I love the performance of the 2270 but the "338* for 45 seconds" that Epson documents is completely bogus. I appreciate you guiding people in the right direction by suggesting 350* at 115 seconds. For me, it's even more. Even without an underbase, prints don't hold up after one wash for me at anything less than 2 minutes at 350. And I pretreat white shirts as well. I started trying on an 8 foot belt dryer but you have to have the conveyor so slow and temp so high that it becomes pointless. I'm adding a third dehumidifier to the print shop to possibly help.
Keep in mind, if you use standard pretreat on white shirts and don't use white ink the color ink will wash out. There are pretreats for color ink only if you insist on using pretreat for white shirts. Your conveyor dryer must have forced air to fully cure the waterbed print. You can dry it in a standard convection oven but must heat press it afterwards to "cure" the print.
@@MelcoEmbroidery Thanks for the reply. I currently use Epson's cotton pretreatment at the 1 to 9 ratio suggested for light garments. I do have a forced air belt dryer. Working with sensitive tech fabrics, the belt dryer is a must for me. Even at 260 to 280 degrees, 3.7 ounce poly/spandex shows heat lines. I think I will explore some other pretreatments and heed some other advice I received which is to not overheat the pretreat in the heatpress process. Thanks for your help!
Nice Video. Fyi if your Dtf transfer starts to peel after the first press the print is destroyed. You'll find after the first wash that area that peeled will come away
Good intel, I wasn't aware of that.
Hello excellent video. I'd like to start in this business with the epson 1070. Do you consider it to be a business that leaves good profits?
Yes the F1070 is a great starter unit. Keep in mind it's slower than the F2270 and has a limited area of 10x12 but it does DTG and DTF and will always be a productive, reliable unit even if you upgrade down the road.
Do you know if the upcoming 1070 will print the same?
Yeah the F1070 will print the same high quality, just about 30% slower. But the F1070 is an awesome and affordable little unit. We're taking preorders on Shopmelco and I have a few really detailed videos you can review.
If I am going on vacation for 2 weeks, and the printer is not being used. What is going to prevent the white inks from clogging in the Tubes, Print Head and Capping Station?
Epson ink is less likely to clog than other brands. The printer is designed to be turned off for extended periods of time. If you are gone for 2 weeks you could consider two options. Have someone come in and turn the printer on, let it cycle, then turn it off. I would do that once per week. Or you could replace the white ink and replace with cleaning cartridges. I think that's a little overkill however. Honestly though, you could probably just leave it off. I left the 2100 off for a month last a few years back and it was fine.
@@MelcoEmbroidery Ok Perfect. Thanks for your speedy reply. I will be in contact soon.