Awesome advice. One additional tidbit…if you continually get seepage around the 6 oil pan studs, it’s likely because someone forgot to install 2 paper gaskets, one above the screen and one below. This little bit of thickness can allow the cap nuts to bottom out before the plate is tight.
Thanks for the video. Worth mentioning originally my bus wasn't fitted with a drain plug so there was no option but to remove the plate. Now fitted with and aftermarket plate which has a drain plug included, and a magnetic plug is a good idea I think. I removed the plate recently because I had one of the studs 'easing up' and I was concerned that it might strip out of the casing. However a new stud did the trick , though I was prepared to drill & tap M8 to accept an M8-M6 stud available for this purpose. The strainer was perfectly clean, so I agree that if you change the oil regularly there is no need to remove this plate and risk stripping the studs in the soft engine alloy, and causing yourself extra work.
I had a mechanic do some work on my 64' and I don't know if he had to change out the strainer and gaskets, the oil is dark and I know he adjusted the valves to get it running. I never asked if he changed the oil and that's been a year and I'm getting ready to change it. I hate to open it up and something to break or get stuck, already purchased the strainer and gaskets. Also, I got the car 4 years ago, it sat in my garage for about 3 years before I got serious with it not sure how long it sat before I bought it, or when that strainer/gaskets got changed last. Thx for any suggestions....
Awesome advice. One additional tidbit…if you continually get seepage around the 6 oil pan studs, it’s likely because someone forgot to install 2 paper gaskets, one above the screen and one below. This little bit of thickness can allow the cap nuts to bottom out before the plate is tight.
good point. Using just the center drain bolt also minimizes the risk of broken studs. I'm dealing with this now and it's no fun!
Damn every 10th oilchange, I was afraid I don’t do it enough every 3rd oil change, and my motor got the spin on filter even, Thanks for the relief 😀
Thanks for the video. Worth mentioning originally my bus wasn't fitted with a drain plug so there was no option but to remove the plate. Now fitted with and aftermarket plate which has a drain plug included, and a magnetic plug is a good idea I think. I removed the plate recently because I had one of the studs 'easing up' and I was concerned that it might strip out of the casing. However a new stud did the trick , though I was prepared to drill & tap M8 to accept an M8-M6 stud available for this purpose. The strainer was perfectly clean, so I agree that if you change the oil regularly there is no need to remove this plate and risk stripping the studs in the soft engine alloy, and causing yourself extra work.
I had a mechanic do some work on my 64' and I don't know if he had to change out the strainer and gaskets, the oil is dark and I know he adjusted the valves to get it running. I never asked if he changed the oil and that's been a year and I'm getting ready to change it. I hate to open it up and something to break or get stuck, already purchased the strainer and gaskets. Also, I got the car 4 years ago, it sat in my garage for about 3 years before I got serious with it not sure how long it sat before I bought it, or when that strainer/gaskets got changed last. Thx for any suggestions....
How often should I change the oil right after putting in a new motor?
Thanks for being real and honest
Interesting idea. Not doing the gasket and screen would encourage me to change it more often
exactly just never let it get dirty and dump and fill it lots. easy.
great tips, thanks!
What oil would you recommend?
My screen always has goop in it because I think the motor is in need of a rebuild so i use brake clean to clean the metal screen
Metal shavings can only be found if you clean the basket
this is different for my AAZ diesel, right? I definitely havd an oil filter, and it holds a bit more
no this only applies to the bug and flat 4 engine. diesel your good for 5k miles if you use synthetic which I highly recommend. AAZ shell rotella t6