Just a warning. @3.39 he places the cam in a closing crack. You should use a nut or hex in this situation because a cam can easily slide back up and out of a closing crack. In the scenario here the cam falls back and opens but is too wide to come out so it's okay but it's more prone to walking in tapering cracks than in parallel ones. Also, not all cams work as passive protection so be careful there.
yes agree. I was going to say this. It's not the only critical thing I would say about this video. He also says the 0.75 at the beginning is "100 %". It is not, it is quite shallow particularly in sandstone. That would be a marginal placement in my opinion. The bit at the mid-end though, showing the multiplicative forces of the cam lobes is an excellent thing for new climbers to thing about.
@gobprnosirve You can use any non-locker that is obviously for climbing. Most people like to use a lightweight carabiner, normally a wire gate. You can also use a locking carabiner if you're using cams to build a top rope anchor for some extra security. Please let me know of any other questions or video suggestions you may have.
Absolutely right with most cams out there. The Camelots that have the double axle however can withstand being passively placed. But in that case you should probably place a large nut or a hex.
could someone please do a video on placing tricams.. the only video I've seen that actually places a tricam (lots of people mention them, no one places them) is an expert village, and I don't think I need to explain why that is not a good source of the information
That .4 placement that walked into a "passive placement" was really sketchy. And no mention was made of why/how BD cams work as passive placements; it is not in a feature like that. It should also be noted that the .4 was placed perpendicular to fall line in a shallow crack, which is NEVER a good placement. Really poor stuff for a video claiming to be instructional.
I've bee browsing through you tube climbing videos and having a look at the occasional instructional. Almost all the others are so bad they are dangerous, this was a great vid, good work
I like the detail of your vid. 50%-90%? you should look up data related to constant angle cams...which most are (i think). therefore, the outward force is constant no matter how open or closed they are within about 5% on each end. My understanding is that the best range is 5%-95% on constnat angle cams...thoughts?
I think the placement at 3:45 is one of a few that might be better served by a well-placed hex. As freeskier has said, cams aren't usually designed to take a passive force like that.
+Den Joh Kinda, it looks like it is backwards, but it also looks like its a different setup. In that setup the orange carabiner seems to be the one for the rope.
In no way is this comment meant to disparage the wonderful video this user has produced. However, trad climbing is an art, not a science, and you need hands-on training and good experience to be good at it. This is a wonderful refresher video once you have been taught but DO NOT SKIP PROFESSIONAL TRAINING! This is your one and only life we're talking about. Don't skimp on paying for some good hands-on training for an inherently dangerous sport. Also, that said, have fun. It's so worth the effort
excellent video. only comment is that cams are not designed to hold a fall when they are expanded into an open position. So in the example where the C4 0.75 walks back into an open position in the rear flare of the crack, it is not safe in this type of situation. A C4 is not designed to hold a fall in a passive placement nor is any other that I'm aware of. Spot on video and excellent demonstrations. Brilliant
The double axel cams can be placed as passive, the smaller single axel ones cannot.
Just a warning. @3.39 he places the cam in a closing crack. You should use a nut or hex in this situation because a cam can easily slide back up and out of a closing crack. In the scenario here the cam falls back and opens but is too wide to come out so it's okay but it's more prone to walking in tapering cracks than in parallel ones. Also, not all cams work as passive protection so be careful there.
yes agree. I was going to say this. It's not the only critical thing I would say about this video. He also says the 0.75 at the beginning is "100 %". It is not, it is quite shallow particularly in sandstone. That would be a marginal placement in my opinion. The bit at the mid-end though, showing the multiplicative forces of the cam lobes is an excellent thing for new climbers to thing about.
@gobprnosirve
You can use any non-locker that is obviously for climbing. Most people like to use a lightweight carabiner, normally a wire gate. You can also use a locking carabiner if you're using cams to build a top rope anchor for some extra security. Please let me know of any other questions or video suggestions you may have.
go ahead
I believe the camalots are designed to be full strength when fully open and in a passive application.
did anyone see the spider walking through the crevice?
Absolutely right with most cams out there. The Camelots that have the double axle however can withstand being passively placed. But in that case you should probably place a large nut or a hex.
Very interesting.Thank you and thanks to speak slowly...Then,as french,I could undestand everything..
could someone please do a video on placing tricams.. the only video I've seen that actually places a tricam (lots of people mention them, no one places them) is an expert village, and I don't think I need to explain why that is not a good source of the information
That .4 placement that walked into a "passive placement" was really sketchy. And no mention was made of why/how BD cams work as passive placements; it is not in a feature like that. It should also be noted that the .4 was placed perpendicular to fall line in a shallow crack, which is NEVER a good placement. Really poor stuff for a video claiming to be instructional.
Wow that is terrifying that a cam can move that boulder but also goes to show how strong they are thanks!
Can you do a vid on stopper placements. So many people have them on there racks but 90% of the time they use there cams instead. Thanks
I've bee browsing through you tube climbing videos and having a look at the occasional instructional. Almost all the others are so bad they are dangerous, this was a great vid, good work
hi can i use any non locking carabiner for the cams ??
and another video on stopper placement would be nice as well.
look at the bug in the dirt at 1:37
I like the detail of your vid. 50%-90%? you should look up data related to constant angle cams...which most are (i think). therefore, the outward force is constant no matter how open or closed they are within about 5% on each end. My understanding is that the best range is 5%-95% on constnat angle cams...thoughts?
I think the placement at 3:45 is one of a few that might be better served by a well-placed hex. As freeskier has said, cams aren't usually designed to take a passive force like that.
Great video! Though, you might want to add an annotation to the video that only dual axle cams are usable as passive gear.
some of what you said only applies to c4s.... you'll ruin a passively placed cam that isn't a c4.
Thank you stay safe.
Excellent video, great tips, thanks for posting.
5:07 should probably have that krab the other way around
At exactly 5:00 - 5:12, is the carabiner oriented incorrectly for lead climbing? Isn't the gate suppose to point down and away from the rock?
+Den Joh Kinda, it looks like it is backwards, but it also looks like its a different setup. In that setup the orange carabiner seems to be the one for the rope.
Great video mate!! Really clear and easy to understand.. thank you
look my friends!! more is better!!
one of mine is worth four
@UnclippedClimbing Thanks a lot
Best explanation to date thanks!
Get the net ... Great teaching .
lol yeah
In no way is this comment meant to disparage the wonderful video this user has produced. However, trad climbing is an art, not a science, and you need hands-on training and good experience to be good at it. This is a wonderful refresher video once you have been taught but DO NOT SKIP PROFESSIONAL TRAINING! This is your one and only life we're talking about. Don't skimp on paying for some good hands-on training for an inherently dangerous sport. Also, that said, have fun. It's so worth the effort
excellent video. only comment is that cams are not designed to hold a fall when they are expanded into an open position. So in the example where the C4 0.75 walks back into an open position in the rear flare of the crack, it is not safe in this type of situation. A C4 is not designed to hold a fall in a passive placement nor is any other that I'm aware of. Spot on video and excellent demonstrations. Brilliant
all C4 cams are rated as passive pro. most all double axle cams are aswell