When I was working with the Fords several years ago, I was given a new key fob to program. It was a big key "unit." First, had to program the key so it could start the engine, THEN program the key to open and close the door locks. Finally got it to work! Of course at my old shop, once you've done one key fob, your the expert! LOL!
Same problem here. Your troubleshooting is what I did and glad I found your video. I replaced to battery and bend all the contacts just a bit but instead of soldering those mini contacts I use a fine nail file to just give them a light stroke and all is working now. Just by replacing the battery and bending the contacts it did nothing the nail file must have cleaned off the mini contacts enough to do the job . Thanks PHAD .
Fixing the old FOB was worth a try. I was happy to see the 708 in action. Oh, that would have been funny to see Amanda try and go to work with a no crank no start. It's a good thing you caught that. :)
Ivan first off great video. Secondly, it seems the hardest part of being a mechanic nowadays is having an array of scan tools. Every time you go to do something you have to choose a scanner. Your lucky you have that luxury. Autel snap-on launch unreal for the average guy. Now another one is shown by Paul Danner. anyway, thanks for the video. ❤️️
I have purchased fobs from online sources in the past and performed the weird steps to get the car to recognize them... Worked successfully for me. Oh yeah, this was for a 2004 Nissan Altima
Thanks for not doing a “Scotty” where the whole job is a 2 minute fix. Sometimes things don’t go as easy as they should and everyone including customers should know it. Good techs are worth every penny! Another informative video.
How many comebacks can you handle? Well.... the wife is the only comeback that **really** matters... lol 😂 It's rare for you to have a comeback otherwise. You're too thorough. 😉
As a matter of interest Ivan I always have quick release on my key chain for the car key , as I was told the weight of all the other keys in the ignition can wear out the key barrel swinging around . I always enjoy thanks for all the help & tips .
Something to be said for someone that tries to do things the most economical way if it's practical. In this case, tried to repair the fob, then searched around and beat the auto parts stores and dealers price by a mile. Love it!!!
As you said.... happy wife=happy life! As a fellow tech, although very very few ever and far between, the wife is always entitled to infinite comebacks! :)
My wife's Subaru FOB had same issue. I wonder if it is because women toss their keyrings into their purses, and the keys get banged around, possibly pressing the buttons on the FOBs all day long? My OEM Subaru FOB works fine, but had to replace my wife's FOB a few times.
Since the light was on, the pilot was almost certainly operational. In my case, after slightly bending all three pairs (!) of the contacts (one pair at the PCB, two pairs at the battery) nothing happened. I bent them tighter, especially the ones that cover the battery, and everything started working. Thanks for the movie.
Had the same issue with my Xterra. My simple fix was to soak the circuit board in contact cleaner. Over the years a build up of gunk prevents the micro switches from making contact.
I had a similar problem with a 2000 Volvo fob. Poor battery contact because the plastic battery holder was worn. However, it was removable so I bought another fob off eBay and just replaced the battery holder because I couldn’t be fussed reprogramming the fob.
Key in and out ignition switch and door lock switch procedure works fine. Only on non I-key remotes. I do them in the parking lot for customers at no charge and they ask me , how did you do that so fast? 30 years with Nissan , I know it like the back of my hand. I do charge for NATS key and I-key programming. Got to hook up the scan tool. Nice fix, however I have tried to program some aftermarket or refurbished remotes that just would not go. I still use the original remotes for my 2004 Titan with a battery or 2 changed so far.
I used the lock door put key in and out of ignition 6 times method to program key fob's on my 2011 frontier. Factory failed in 3 years. Cheap Ebay units still going 4+ years. Mine didn't have integral keys.
Im not sure if the pcb was faulty on the original pcb or it was weak contacts, anyhow the other half is happy, phew lol. Put Lada stickers on the car, no one will steal it :)
Great video Ivan, I have the Autel Elite I’ve programmed a lot of nissans and keyless chip works great. My local hardware store cuts keys luckily no problem. Autel Elite works great for Nissans
Hey Ivan, wow you actually part cannon it. Hahaha!!! That is weird being not work with sand paper and pushing the contacts etc. At least the primary key works fine plus the back up key as well. Few parts swapped out haha
Hi Ivan, i have a Vauxhall Corsa here, (General Motor in US) and i have had problems with key, as you found there made in 2 bits, with mine the chip for the immobilizer is in the front bit and the battery and PCB for doors, is in the back bit, anyway i found you could buy a kit off ebay which had 2 microswitches in and some other parts, but the problem with mine was the switches didn't work...as i am 70 now i got a radio friend to fit them for me and that cured the problem....i have done both my keys....from Fred in Uk.
Happy wife - happy life Don’t we all know it. Better beware Ivan mine wasn’t happy with just the remote lock and unlock. She wanted her car warm when she got off work so guess who got to put in a remote start? Oh well wife was extremely happy.
i have an old radio hack battery tester that my dad had for 3v buttons it puts a 1ma load on them so you might want to put a 3k resister in series to test them like others say they will hold a surface charge
In my experience, when the open circuit button cell voltage (Voc) is less than 3.0 volts the battery is depleted and it won't provide enough voltage/current to activate the key-fob, i.e., the batt. has a high internal resistance. (Cold temps. will exacerbate the problem.) The correct solution would've been to install a new battery whose Voc will be about 3.15 volts at room temperature. And, I'd recommend replacing the batt. annually or sooner based on experience, to avoid this malfunction due to a worn out battery. If the problem still exists after a new batt. then it's time to buy a new key-fob.
Solder the little sheetmetal battery contact to the board and install the battery on the board before you put it together. The problem is the two halves are getting loose when snapped together and that will effect the battery connection continuity. So if you solder the ground tab to the board lined up correctly it should work
Hello. Thanks for your video. I tinned the PCB pads for the positive and reflowed the negative pads. The fob works now. I noticed the positive PCB pads were pitted. Bending the battery contacts didn’t work for me either. Thanks for your help.
Nice you bought a new part lol. Think I would of had the key cut and programmed it to the car just to have another functional key. Great job wonder if you soldered some very small wires to the contacts and to the circuit board if it would then work.
Had same issue after replacing battery . All I had to do was hold the unlock and lock button at the same time and it programmed itself . Hold until you hear the beep and you’ll be good .
But did your key work after programming her key? Some manufacturers replace the last key as the one unless they were done at the same time. You have like 30 seconds to program all the keys and fobs you want up to like 4 at the same time. If not the most recent overwrites the previous one or group.
Some fobs make contact with a carbon film pads deposited on the silcone/rubber membrane. The film makes a connection directly across the switch pads on the small printed circuit board. Jaguar does this. I've rejuvenated fobs a couple of time by gently cleaning the membrane with alcohol and a light touch. The idea is to clean the carbon pads without scraping them off the rubber. I don't know how you'd recarbon those pads without buying a new part like you did.
Great! I have no experience programmin keys yet, I can see your Autel Ds708 is pretty useful for it, (Now I'm regreting selling mine to buy the latest one even thou has the same functions) that same procedure you have performed in Dominican Republic is about US$250. I'm curious about the bonus part, I though the small chip you left in the other key case was need it in the programming procedure but it seems that there's actually two separate systems within the key, the remote entry circuit and the turn on vehicle circuit and the one that did not worked properly was the entry one. Thank you for this video Ivan!
Hi there, I have the same key for a nissan 2009 x trail key is sending out signal (tested) but nothing. is there a way to program key to car? i have tried youtube suggestions, but no joy. Dave australia
I often try to reflow keyfobs with a hot air reflow station and some flux. Most of the time it fixes broken keyfobs. If you don't have a rework station, you can try a hot air paint stripper.
I lost my key so I bought one on ebay, programmed it by holding down the unlock button on the driver door, etc. It worked fine for a few weeks and then it would not start the car and triggered the immobilizer. Now I'm looking for on OBD scanner that can register keys, but not as expensive as the autel.
My VW keyfob has been through the washer. I replaced the housing once with a knock-off from ebay and it's still working after 17 years. It's probably on the 5th battery now.
I watched just to see what scanner you used to reprogram the key (s) as a lot of aftermarket 1s won't do it, even though they are advertised so. I'm sure the system in my Dodge and Acura are different, but I get a message on the display stating that the fob's battery is low and to replace it, even though they still work.
Could the RFID fob (for building access) that is on the primary keyfob affect general operation? Obviously, there was a problem with the original key not working as well....
Ivan thanks for this ... im struggling to a RKE to work on my sons Hyundai Accent ... he lost all keys and has an aftermarket transpnder key to start and manually open ... is it the case that no code should be needed to program an aftermarket RKE only?? Intend to just leave transponder as a seperate key unit. Thnx Alex
@@urahaman1479 Thanks Umar. Not sure what market you are in. Can assure you that in Australia 2004 models have immobiliser and ETACS controlling remote keyless access and the factory alarm, as well as other things. However, I believe you are correct that ETACS requires no codes, although transponder key registration does require a code. Nevertheless the ETACS needs to be put into programming mode, which I'm not clear on how to do. There are many references to a "off-set" switch on the ETACS module, though mine and many others do not have such a switch. Best info I can find is that the switch existed on a few very early 2000s UK models.
@@alexmessina3383 i am in the usa and thought you were too. Didnt know they were different in Australia. Im not sure of any shortcuts to program without a scan tool
Came over here on Eric's nickle, glad you weren't giving parachute lesson???? oops brain fart after jumping out of the plane then remembering your chute??
Just got my launch x431 a few days ago. My friend has a Nissan Infiniti 06 with no key fob,just a working key. He ordered 1 on Ebay and got it cut ,I had the key programmed but not the fob. Then I tried to program the fobs then the new key stopped working. Omg then on the 3rd try the engine would not start, I thought I bricked the ECU. But I just killed the battery lol.
I have had experience with fobs not working when the battery voltage was 3.0 volts. A new battery is usually 3.3 volts. The new battery always fixed the problem as long as the circuit board hadn't gone bad. Go figure?
@@nicknicu1787 yes and I own a 2003 Nissan Pulsar and have owned a Datsun 180B as my first car so I agree with Scotty with first hand experience. I've also owned a 1993 toyota Corolla but it wasn't as bulletproof as he makes out they are.
Matowix Unplugged Fair enough,but let me tell you : I have seen failures with all brands-some of them are pretty ridiculous. So I always laugh when I see Scotty’s lines. If you watch enough UA-cam you will immediately identify the bias coming from the US UA-cam creators : “ European cars are the sum of all evil “...” Nissan was great until Renault bought them “ and “ Fiat completely destroyed Chrysler as they were great before! “ LOL. All hilarious lines! 😁😁😁 Also Toyota are so reliable but they like to drink oil like water,rust like they’ve been under water and develop oil leaks “ just for fun “. LOL!
Help my brother fix his car one day. He couldn't get the car to stay running. It would start but would die after a couple of second running. At first, I thought it was a bad fuel pump but when I connected my fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail I could see that there was plenty of pressure. When I went in the car to start it I notice that the security key light was on. Looked at the key that my brother was using and saw that it was just an Ace hardware key that he had made. Asked him if he had the original key for the car and after searching for a while he came up with the original key. Started the car with the original key and it remains running. Told him that the Ace hardware key didn't have a chip to keep the engine running once it was started.
My key & fob are separate but cut key with chip got worn out (had a good backup key to open doors but no chip in it). Taped chip key to steering column. (Chevy 1500)
Yep! Happy wife....next, it will be that she is tired of her car always breaking down, and having to wait for you to have time to fix it. So, she wants a new one!! Remember that HAPPY WIFE.......new car on the horizon.
Upallnight...that would be a good thing, he's replaced almost everything on it, except the year, make, model, and mileage. Those are still original equipment! I want to see the video where he replaces those things! I bet Keith has a scanner that can do just that!! KEITH: "This is the new Snapon Bottle of Water. It cost more than Trump towers, can only be used once, is faster than molasses in the winter time, and can reprogram a Nissan Rogue with a Subaru (with the head gaskets already replaced), program!" IVAN: "Cool, let's take it apart, to see if we can fix it!" That's starting to sound like an Andrew Camarata video! Or a Mustie1 video. MUSTIE1: "we found this rock on the side of the road, with moss growing on it, an a sign that said "FREE! Will it ever run again?"
I have an old Nissan Rogue with those same fobs...they fobs work....however, I am missing the little screw that holds the key in place in both fobs...anyone know what size those screws are?
Hahaha! Comebacks are definitely unwanted, in your industry! Unless it's Mrs. P.H.A.D!! Then, you want some comebacks, maybe even a few!! Maybe even break something else, in hopes that she will still need you to help her!!
Hey Ivan, I'm a mechanic in Michigan, not to good at electrical diagnoses, I'm working on an 09 Acadia 3.6l, there is no communication with any module, you turn the key to start it and nothing happens but the cluster fades out, and the check engine light stays on the whole time, it says in the cluster area service all wheel drive and also there is no shift indicator around the prndl, no matter what gear it's in, done checked the tsb's for the rubbing wires on the bolt on floorboards and between front and back door, everything seems fine, can you please help, I'm at a loss...
Dirk Check the battery first. LOAD TEST IT! Next will be Positive and Negative battery connections THEN load test Positive and Negative connections at the PCM. A test light is ok, using the stop light filament of a combo stop/tail light bulb will give it a good load. I know parts houses have light bulb sockets to hold the bulb. Hope This Helps.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
When I was working with the Fords several years ago, I was given a new key fob to program. It was a big key "unit." First, had to program the key so it could start the engine, THEN program the key to open and close the door locks. Finally got it to work! Of course at my old shop, once you've done one key fob, your the expert! LOL!
I had to watch the video twice. But you really bought a new part!😉 Everything to keep the wife happy!👍
I thought the same. Nooo Ivan it is a sad day. Happy wife is the ultimate challenge. Thanks Ivan
Don't worry Dan I got some goon "NO PARTS REQUIRED" case studies coming up ;)
Same problem here. Your troubleshooting is what I did and glad I found your video. I replaced to battery and bend all the contacts just a bit but instead of soldering those mini contacts I use a fine nail file to just give them a light stroke and all is working now. Just by replacing the battery and bending the contacts it did nothing the nail file must have cleaned off the mini contacts enough to do the job . Thanks PHAD .
Fixing the old FOB was worth a try. I was happy to see the 708 in action. Oh, that would have been funny to see Amanda try and go to work with a no crank no start. It's a good thing you caught that. :)
He broke it in the first place.
Solved mine by prying the prongs up a little to give better contact. Thanks for the idea worked a charm. 👍🏻
Ivan first off great video. Secondly, it seems the hardest part of being a mechanic nowadays is having an array of scan tools. Every time you go to do something you have to choose a scanner. Your lucky you have that luxury. Autel snap-on launch unreal for the average guy. Now another one is shown by Paul Danner. anyway, thanks for the video. ❤️️
I have purchased fobs from online sources in the past and performed the weird steps to get the car to recognize them... Worked successfully for me. Oh yeah, this was for a 2004 Nissan Altima
That last quote is completely right!
Thanks for not doing a “Scotty” where the whole job is a 2 minute fix. Sometimes things don’t go as easy as they should and everyone including customers should know it. Good techs are worth every penny! Another informative video.
How many comebacks can you handle? Well.... the wife is the only comeback that **really** matters... lol 😂
It's rare for you to have a comeback otherwise. You're too thorough. 😉
It's also to have to replace parts too.
Haha you aren't kidding "Happy Wife=Happy Life" keep her satisfied lol
I see a ZTS pulse load multi battery tester, in your future. Those coin cells will show OCV near 3 volts, and be at or below 10% capacity.
How about a 3V test light ;)
FYI your wife is entitled to an infinite number of comebacks.
As a matter of interest Ivan I always have quick release on my key chain for the car key , as I was told the weight of all the other keys in the ignition can wear out the key barrel swinging around . I always enjoy thanks for all the help & tips .
That’s would take 15 years and up .
Good try on the no parts repair Ivan! Can't win em' all. Thanks!
Something to be said for someone that tries to do things the most economical way if it's practical. In this case, tried to repair the fob, then searched around and beat the auto parts stores and dealers price by a mile. Love it!!!
Having the wife come back for bad repairs is a dangerous game Ivan. Smart man just buys a new key and is able to sleep good at night. :P
As you said.... happy wife=happy life! As a fellow tech, although very very few ever and far between, the wife is always entitled to infinite comebacks! :)
You forgot to hit START on the confirmation screen when testing the 2nd key. Is that why you didn't see the OK confirmations?
My wife's Subaru FOB had same issue. I wonder if it is because women toss their keyrings into their purses, and the keys get banged around, possibly pressing the buttons on the FOBs all day long? My OEM Subaru FOB works fine, but had to replace my wife's FOB a few times.
Great find on the security chip! Happy wife. Happy life.
Since the light was on, the pilot was almost certainly operational. In my case, after slightly bending all three pairs (!) of the contacts (one pair at the PCB, two pairs at the battery) nothing happened. I bent them tighter, especially the ones that cover the battery, and everything started working. Thanks for the movie.
I replaced battery in my wife's mazda car remote with same 2.9v od battery and it worked. I think remote needed at least 3v to work properly
Dude U helped me out ... back of the housing assy. is the security transponder SWEET.
Had the same issue with my Xterra.
My simple fix was to soak the circuit board in contact cleaner.
Over the years a build up of gunk prevents the micro switches from making contact.
Thank you so much. This video will forever work...
Thanks Ivan. Happy Wife = Happy Life, AMEN
I had a similar problem with a 2000 Volvo fob. Poor battery contact because the plastic battery holder was worn. However, it was removable so I bought another fob off eBay and just replaced the battery holder because I couldn’t be fussed reprogramming the fob.
Key in and out ignition switch and door lock switch procedure works fine. Only on non I-key remotes. I do them in the parking lot for customers at no charge and they ask me , how did you do that so fast? 30 years with Nissan , I know it like the back of my hand. I do charge for NATS key and I-key programming. Got to hook up the scan tool. Nice fix, however I have tried to program some aftermarket or refurbished remotes that just would not go. I still use the original remotes for my 2004 Titan with a battery or 2 changed so far.
Ivan,
Great video with the key swaptronics! Thanks
God bless
Paul
I used the lock door put key in and out of ignition 6 times method to program key fob's on my 2011 frontier. Factory failed in 3 years. Cheap Ebay units still going 4+ years. Mine didn't have integral keys.
Im not sure if the pcb was faulty on the original pcb or it was weak contacts, anyhow the other half is happy, phew lol.
Put Lada stickers on the car, no one will steal it :)
Great video Ivan, I have the Autel Elite I’ve programmed a lot of nissans and keyless chip works great. My local hardware store cuts keys luckily no problem. Autel Elite works great for Nissans
The ms906bt does 2018 Toyota and nissan all keys lost no passcodes needed..only cars it wont do are ford gm Chrysler
@@urahaman1479 do you know by any chance what computer scanner tool that do all cars brands ? At least Japanese and Americans brands together
Ahh sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. All worked out! Nice fix! 👍
Hey Ivan, wow you actually part cannon it. Hahaha!!! That is weird being not work with sand paper and pushing the contacts etc. At least the primary key works fine plus the back up key as well. Few parts swapped out haha
Hi Ivan, i have a Vauxhall Corsa here, (General Motor in US) and i have had problems with key, as you found there made in 2 bits, with mine the chip for the immobilizer is in the front bit and the battery and PCB for doors, is in the back bit, anyway i found you could buy a kit off ebay which had 2 microswitches in and some other parts, but the problem with mine was the switches didn't work...as i am 70 now i got a radio friend to fit them for me and that cured the problem....i have done both my keys....from Fred in Uk.
Nice fix. Now if I can just find the key my wife lost after 20 years.
Happy wife - happy life
Don’t we all know it. Better beware Ivan mine wasn’t happy with just the remote lock and unlock. She wanted her car warm when she got off work so guess who got to put in a remote start? Oh well wife was extremely happy.
nice vid, i have learned a lot following your channel, regards from south america
Thank you, Julio!
i have an old radio hack battery tester that my dad had for 3v buttons it puts a 1ma load on them so you might want to put a 3k resister in series to test them like others say they will hold a surface charge
In my experience, when the open circuit button cell voltage (Voc) is less than 3.0 volts the battery is depleted and it won't provide enough voltage/current to activate the key-fob, i.e., the batt. has a high internal resistance. (Cold temps. will exacerbate the problem.) The correct solution would've been to install a new battery whose Voc will be about 3.15 volts at room temperature. And, I'd recommend replacing the batt. annually or sooner based on experience, to avoid this malfunction due to a worn out battery. If the problem still exists after a new batt. then it's time to buy a new key-fob.
Solder the little sheetmetal battery contact to the board and install the battery on the board before you put it together. The problem is the two halves are getting loose when snapped together and that will effect the battery connection continuity. So if you solder the ground tab to the board lined up correctly it should work
Ivan teaches a lesson in key hokey cokey. In out in out shake all about. New parts never!!!!!!
Hello. Thanks for your video. I tinned the PCB pads for the positive and reflowed the negative pads. The fob works now. I noticed the positive PCB pads were pitted. Bending the battery contacts didn’t work for me either. Thanks for your help.
Always take care of your love ones first. Should have purchased new one 3 weeks ago getting in your car quickly is a safety issue, Bill N LI NY
Nice you bought a new part lol. Think I would of had the key cut and programmed it to the car just to have another functional key. Great job wonder if you soldered some very small wires to the contacts and to the circuit board if it would then work.
Had same issue after replacing battery . All I had to do was hold the unlock and lock button at the same time and it programmed itself . Hold until you hear the beep and you’ll be good .
But did your key work after programming her key? Some manufacturers replace the last key as the one unless they were done at the same time. You have like 30 seconds to program all the keys and fobs you want up to like 4 at the same time. If not the most recent overwrites the previous one or group.
I use oxideclean on a q-tip, and clean all contact surfaces, even the battery, it works on my remote control
Some fobs make contact with a carbon film pads deposited on the silcone/rubber membrane. The film makes a connection directly across the switch pads on the small printed circuit board. Jaguar does this. I've rejuvenated fobs a couple of time by gently cleaning the membrane with alcohol and a light touch. The idea is to clean the carbon pads without scraping them off the rubber. I don't know how you'd recarbon those pads without buying a new part like you did.
Great! I have no experience programmin keys yet, I can see your Autel Ds708 is pretty useful for it, (Now I'm regreting selling mine to buy the latest one even thou has the same functions) that same procedure you have performed in Dominican Republic is about US$250. I'm curious about the bonus part, I though the small chip you left in the other key case was need it in the programming procedure but it seems that there's actually two separate systems within the key, the remote entry circuit and the turn on vehicle circuit and the one that did not worked properly was the entry one. Thank you for this video Ivan!
Yup immobilizer and remote entry are two separate programmings :)
Hi there, I have the same key for a nissan 2009 x trail key is sending out signal (tested) but nothing.
is there a way to program key to car? i have tried youtube suggestions, but no joy.
Dave
australia
I often try to reflow keyfobs with a hot air reflow station and some flux. Most of the time it fixes broken keyfobs. If you don't have a rework station, you can try a hot air paint stripper.
Once again the Maxi Das comes to the rescue.
Yup it's a great scanner!
I lost my key so I bought one on ebay, programmed it by holding down the unlock button on the driver door, etc. It worked fine for a few weeks and then it would not start the car and triggered the immobilizer. Now I'm looking for on OBD scanner that can register keys, but not as expensive as the autel.
My VW keyfob has been through the washer. I replaced the housing once with a knock-off from ebay and it's still working after 17 years. It's probably on the 5th battery now.
So you have a modern VW that has been working for more than 17 years? We need to hear more about this!
What tool are you using to give the key registration to the car? Sorry if that’s the wrong terminology
... also is is DS708 you are using? I will try the 808
Dr Ivan: Happy Wife Happy Life👏👏🙏
Autel saves the day...AGAIN! 👍
Should have replaced the battery on the original key fob. You can't properly test battery voltage without a load.
True I seen this many times with CR battery’s test at 2.9 volts no good from door openers to car remotes they do not work with low battery
Very true. But even with brand new battery original fobs were not reliable.
Well done Ivan.
I watched just to see what scanner you used to reprogram the key (s) as a lot of aftermarket 1s won't do it, even though they are advertised so. I'm sure the system in my Dodge and Acura are different, but I get a message on the display stating that the fob's battery is low and to replace it, even though they still work.
So you’re Ivan !!! Eric O. mentioned you in his videos and
I didn’t know you because I didn’t see any of your videos until now.
Could the RFID fob (for building access) that is on the primary keyfob affect general operation? Obviously, there was a problem with the original key not working as well....
So the Autel only programmed the door functions? How would you then program the anti-theft chip?
Nice fix ivan. You know what they say happy wifey easy lifey 🙄
That's how mine acts when the battery is bad. Change the battery, and it's good to go.
I changed the battery in both original keys not long ago but wife kept complaining xD
Did you have to use the old chip and I guess the new key fob did not come with chip
Ivan thanks for this ... im struggling to a RKE to work on my sons Hyundai Accent ... he lost all keys and has an aftermarket transpnder key to start and manually open ... is it the case that no code should be needed to program an aftermarket RKE only?? Intend to just leave transponder as a seperate key unit.
Thnx
Alex
Hyundai accents dont have immobilizers (assuming its not push button start which ive never come across) so no code needed
@@urahaman1479 Thanks Umar. Not sure what market you are in. Can assure you that in Australia 2004 models have immobiliser and ETACS controlling remote keyless access and the factory alarm, as well as other things. However, I believe you are correct that ETACS requires no codes, although transponder key registration does require a code. Nevertheless the ETACS needs to be put into programming mode, which I'm not clear on how to do. There are many references to a "off-set" switch on the ETACS module, though mine and many others do not have such a switch. Best info I can find is that the switch existed on a few very early 2000s UK models.
@@alexmessina3383 i am in the usa and thought you were too. Didnt know they were different in Australia. Im not sure of any shortcuts to program without a scan tool
been there done that the battery might be reading almost three volts ,but under load it will go even lower change the battery and be done trust me
For sure. But even with brand new batteries a few months ago the fobs would be unreliable at best. My wife complained more than once haha
Came over here on Eric's nickle, glad you weren't giving parachute lesson???? oops brain fart after jumping out of the plane then remembering your chute??
Just got my launch x431 a few days ago. My friend has a Nissan Infiniti 06 with no key fob,just a working key. He ordered 1 on Ebay and got it cut ,I had the key programmed but not the fob. Then I tried to program the fobs then the new key stopped working. Omg then on the 3rd try the engine would not start, I thought I bricked the ECU. But I just killed the battery lol.
Needles to say I got the car started and got the hell outta there in fear. I told him I'll be back after a few days after more research.
I have had experience with fobs not working when the battery voltage was 3.0 volts. A new battery is usually 3.3 volts. The new battery always fixed the problem as long as the circuit board hadn't gone bad. Go figure?
Nissan quality is terrible since Renault merged with them in 2000
That line sounds familiar : are you a Scotty subscriber? Lol!
@@nicknicu1787 yes and I own a 2003 Nissan Pulsar and have owned a Datsun 180B as my first car so I agree with Scotty with first hand experience. I've also owned a 1993 toyota Corolla but it wasn't as bulletproof as he makes out they are.
Matowix Unplugged Fair enough,but let me tell you : I have seen failures with all brands-some of them are pretty ridiculous. So I always laugh when I see Scotty’s lines. If you watch enough UA-cam you will immediately identify the bias coming from the US UA-cam creators : “ European cars are the sum of all evil “...” Nissan was great until Renault bought them “ and “ Fiat completely destroyed Chrysler as they were great before! “ LOL. All hilarious lines! 😁😁😁 Also Toyota are so reliable but they like to drink oil like water,rust like they’ve been under water and develop oil leaks “ just for fun “. LOL!
@@nicknicu1787 yeah my Toyota Corolla burnt oil even though I looked after it and it had done only 88,000 km
Yep look at Chrysler Dodge now that Fiat is ruining them.
Dealer wants $150 for a fob and $175 to program it! I am ordering two fobs today on amazon for under $30!
Nice job
Lol you ain’t never lying
It can be a voltage of 3V it is more important to measure the current and that is the ampere 😉
Too bad you didn't have a face-cam rolling when the key bit dropped out of the shell... :D
Well 2,95 volts without a load means to me a bad battery for FM sending signals, so replace it first. O, and when it's fixed avoid dropping the key.
Wow, Beckman DM78 DMM. My HD-100 died many years ago.
I did this 3 yrs ago I removed the key to keep it as a lock unlock only fob I just changed batteries in my 2 or fobs and same issues.
I got the same precision screwdriver set
Help my brother fix his car one day. He couldn't get the car to stay running. It would start but would die after a couple of second running. At first, I thought it was a bad fuel pump but when I connected my fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail I could see that there was plenty of pressure. When I went in the car to start it I notice that the security key light was on. Looked at the key that my brother was using and saw that it was just an Ace hardware key that he had made. Asked him if he had the original key for the car and after searching for a while he came up with the original key. Started the car with the original key and it remains running. Told him that the Ace hardware key didn't have a chip to keep the engine running once it was started.
My key & fob are separate but cut key with chip got worn out (had a good backup key to open doors but no chip in it). Taped chip key to steering column. (Chevy 1500)
That's one solution lol!
Ivan you broke her key fob again she won't let you use her car anymore.
xD
Yep! Happy wife....next, it will be that she is tired of her car always breaking down, and having to wait for you to have time to fix it. So, she wants a new one!! Remember that HAPPY WIFE.......new car on the horizon.
The good thing about a new car for the wife is that Ivan will get a new car for himself (the wife old car).
Upallnight...that would be a good thing, he's replaced almost everything on it, except the year, make, model, and mileage. Those are still original equipment! I want to see the video where he replaces those things! I bet Keith has a scanner that can do just that!!
KEITH:
"This is the new Snapon Bottle of Water. It cost more than Trump towers, can only be used once, is faster than molasses in the winter time, and can reprogram a Nissan Rogue with a Subaru (with the head gaskets already replaced), program!"
IVAN:
"Cool, let's take it apart, to see if we can fix it!"
That's starting to sound like an Andrew Camarata video! Or a Mustie1 video.
MUSTIE1: "we found this rock on the side of the road, with moss growing on it, an a sign that said "FREE! Will it ever run again?"
missed the opportunity to call it "project Blinky"
can you list all the tools you used and if you want amazon links so you can get credit. I want to try to become more handy
do u have j2534 for reflashing?
I have an old Nissan Rogue with those same fobs...they fobs work....however, I am missing the little screw that holds the key in place in both fobs...anyone know what size those screws are?
Hahaha! Comebacks are definitely unwanted, in your industry! Unless it's Mrs. P.H.A.D!! Then, you want some comebacks, maybe even a few!! Maybe even break something else, in hopes that she will still need you to help her!!
Just pull the back tab on the battery side up easy fix!
Will the Snap On do the key program ?
Not sure...
I think you have a broken trace on the circuit board.
Hey Ivan, I'm a mechanic in Michigan, not to good at electrical diagnoses, I'm working on an 09 Acadia 3.6l, there is no communication with any module, you turn the key to start it and nothing happens but the cluster fades out, and the check engine light stays on the whole time, it says in the cluster area service all wheel drive and also there is no shift indicator around the prndl, no matter what gear it's in, done checked the tsb's for the rubbing wires on the bolt on floorboards and between front and back door, everything seems fine, can you please help, I'm at a loss...
Pick one module and check powers and grounds with a test light. Then get a wiring diagram of the CAN BUS and check for signal on a scope :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thank you very much, I will keep in touch with you about it....
Dirk
Check the battery first. LOAD TEST IT! Next will be Positive and Negative battery connections THEN load test Positive and Negative connections at the PCM. A test light is ok, using the stop light filament of a combo stop/tail light bulb will give it a good load. I know parts houses have light bulb sockets to hold the bulb.
Hope This Helps.
Thanks alot
Why can't the car manufacturer make the old style keys. And give you a remote separate. Like the older cars do.
Probably cheaper to make just one unit...
SALUDOS DE VENEZUELA MUCHAS GRACIAS POR SUBIR EL VIDEO Y EXPLICAR COMO ES EL PROCESO
My fob looks completely different from yours and I own 4 rogue vehicles. I own 2 09 1 10 and 1 2019 They all look the same
lol i was just about to say ya didnt try starting it when the bonus footage came on. y couldda just taped the old cover on the steering column
use chisel tips better heat transfer. My fob works but I think the key lost it pairing.