Improve Your POWER for Bouldering ft. Alex Puccio
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
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This week's coaching session with @roapcoaching917 on the Kilter Board might be one of my favourite climbing technique sessions yet - we’re jumping into into a technique masterclass with a focus on being powerful and decisive in your climbing with non other than multiple time US National Champion Alex Puccio.
00:00 Introduction to Alex Puccio
01:00 Secrets to Board Climbing
01:35 Warm-Up Board Climb
05:55 Alex on V4 - Practicing Momentum
07:00 Hannah on V4
08:30 Squarespace
09:40 Alex Explains Generating Power Through Lower Body
Alex is an incredible athlete, known for her impressive power and mind-boggling achievements both rock and plastic, and it was great to chat to her about what she terms “fluency in the language of climbing.”
We headed to the Kilter space in Colorado and made use of a brilliant climbing training tool for power, the Kilterboard - we hope you find it useful.
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1:42 "ford focus" by samgtmeyer 6a/v3 @ 10°
5:56 "proj braj" by jwebxl 6b/v4 @ 30°
14:47 "Kevin noooo" by jwebxl 6a+/v3 @ 30°
21:04 "proj braj" by jwebxl 7a+/v7 @ 40°
23:55 "wagon lite" by keenan 8a/v11 @ 40°
I know projbraj and wagon lite were included in the video but I figured I would write them here anyway for completeness.
PS Alex has such a great vibe, she is always great in videos!
You looked so purposeful on the board moves, definitely unlocked new momentum.
Thank you!!! 🥹
Alex is so jacked dude - i'm always impressed by her physique and control.
I love what Alex said about leaving ego behind the door when you're training. This is one of the best advices, really. The moment I stopped caring what other people at the climbing gym might think was the moment I started to progress. Because to be honest, no one really cares about grades you can or can't do :) At the end of the day, everyone wants to do their training/to socialise with friends and have fun. And also, Kilter board is one of the best training tools ever.
Loved the episode Hannah, your progression was amazing in this one! Best wishes for you guys!
It’s so true! Climbing is such an individual pursuit and I always love to think that regardless of grade, we’re all having just as much fun trying at our max and learning new stuff about how to climb! Really glad you liked the episode 💥🙌
All that matters is your having fun:)
@@Ericxnugz Personally, I think that the will to improve is the special sauce that makes super-fun possible and gets you thru the times when the fun just isn't there. So, IMHO, trying to become a better climber *in some way* is also important.
Totally agree that realizing that everyone is doing their thing is freeing and helpful for your own sessions. Thank you for the nice compliment about the board!
@@KilterClimbingGrips your board helped me to go from struggling on V4s to flashing V5s on '40 in just one month. I'm mostly a lead climber, not a boulderer and it was an intense month on Kilter board but the progression is huge, so thank you
Of all the videos I've watched from you, the changes and improvements in your climbing over the past few months have been so noticeable! This was such a good video too - I feel so inspired and also confident to finally try out board climbing. Thanks for everything you, Nathan, and your guests do! 🙌
Ahhhh thank you so much! Really hope you enjoy incorporating board climbing into your training. It can be a lot of fun for working big, powerful moves and the Kilter especially is a really fun one ☺️
Energy pods! Love watching y'all climb and listening to Alex talk about tactics. Her comment about the need for confidence really head home for me with regard to board climbing. I've been climbing since the '90s and generally feel pretty solid on vertical outside climbing where it can be on my feet, And getting on the board I have to really embrace beginner mindset and let go of the idea that "I'm experienced and my movement should always feel flowy". Boards are a really wonderful space to become comfortable failing and flailing in in front of other people. Dave McLeod talks about imports of this in "9 out of 10 Climbers" and Alex really drives the point home here. Thank y'all
So cool that Alex did this with US!!
Damn you're getting a lot better Hannah, super powerful in this one!
Thank you! I had a lot of fun trying my proj and unlocking some power 💥
Alex is the best!! You really look like you were taking on everything she said, could see her style in your movements
I love seeing your confidence beam through!! Crushing new ceilings that you had set yourself. Thanks for sharing!
You are so welcome! Thanks so much for your kind comment :)
Love this. Super motivational
Great video! Alex's notes on mindful footwork and hip placement were a really good reminder.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching ✌️
Fantastic video and so helpful. This is one that I will watch again and again.
Really glad to hear it. Alex and Robin were great to work with and sooooo knowledgeable 💪☺️
Seeing you’re progression and implementing all the instructions was awesome. You’re a great learner and applicator
Glad you enjoyed it & that you can see the progression 🥹
So excited to see you continue to master momentum! Very exciting
Thank you! Been working on it 🥹
Very informative. I've often seen advice to focus on technique rather than strength. But I think the two go hand in hand. The reason Alex can move so fluidly and utilize momentum to work more efficiently is because of how dialed in her strength is. Great climbing from Alex and Hannah. Thank you for sharing this content.
First climb is Ford focus set by samgtmeyer! It's a v6 at 45 I've tried a few times, the unwind move is quite hard, but a really cool boulder that hopefully I'll get eventually
Thanks for the info! I’d be really interested to try it at 45! It has some really fun moves ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering You should for sure! Imo 45 is the best angle for the board, really makes you focus on keeping tension through your feet
Nice and informative video! Really admiring that transition at 6:20 from the explanation commentary to her talking directly again. Well done!
Awesome, thank you! Really glad you enjoyed the video
Killing it! And her tip about the hips makes so much sense!! Shows climbing isn’t just about strength .. mostly good technique!
Absolutely! You can get so much better without getting any stronger. ☺️
Listened to this today during my session and these tips helped so much! Could definitely see the difference in your attempts as well which was so cool 🧡
Great to hear! Glad it was helpful for you :)
I just did my first K board session last Sunday and felt it really out of my comfort zone. I was only able to climb 2 grades down from my level at 40 degree and it was exhaustive. This new video came out at the right time and I’m learning so much from it. Thank you Hannah!
Ahhh that’s great to hear, hope you enjoyed your first session on the board.
Definitely a humbling style of climbing but has been teaching me lots of skills ☺️
I’m only halfway through and this video is already so helpful, thanks so much!
Really glad you’re finding it useful. I found the session so good for focussing on momentum & driving my hips 🥰
Another really interesting and helpful video. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks so much for watching and all your support in the comments ✨🙌
Some stuff in this one about generating momentum that I want to bring with me to my next session! 😊
Alex is soo knowledgeable! (And seems really cool) 😁
Hope you find it helps in your next session :)
I liked how you talked about not leaving your legs behind and using all your limbs (legs/arms). Also remembering to not lock off. I don't think I've ever used all my limbs in that way, so it's something I want try to see how it feels. GREAT climging Hannah!👍🏽 You were smashing it🤙🏽
Great tip! Really glad you enjoyed the video and glad it was useful 🙌
Alex's insight was so interesting !! Also the campus moove at 24:13 was crazyyy
Hannah looked so strong, and every video she inspires me to learn new things and get out of my confort zone !!
Really glad to hear it! Thanks for watching ☺️
well done ! most dynamic ive seen you climb
Thank you!
Alex is so incredible at explaining technique!!
Great coach!
I am a begginer and your chanel is so inspiring. I watch at leader 3-4 videos per day ! Climbing is a really good sport but you learn it all by yourself so your vidéos are really helping me.
Thank you from France !
Welcome aboard! Hope you’re loving climbing so far and I’m so glad to hear that you’re finding the videos useful!
the explanation of the momentum nice
I've been projecting the same boulder the last few sessions. Those pinches are no joke, especially when you don't hit em good! Excited to focus on driving with hips for next time and as always great vid!
Ahhh what a coincidence! Hope you find these tips useful ☺️
Both Hannah and Alex make it look easy, these problems are no joke.
Do you have the name of the boulders ? :)
@@RedTigerGermany
1:42 "ford focus" by samgtmeyer 6a/v3 @ 10°
5:56 "proj braj" by jwebxl 6b/v4 @ 30°
14:47 "Kevin noooo" by jwebxl 6a+/v3 @ 30°
21:04 "proj braj" by jwebxl 7a+/v7 @ 40°
23:55 "wagon lite" by keenan 8a/v11 @ 40°
I posted these in another comment too, but here they are.
Alex has the most amazing arms
Another great video! I jumped on your Christmas shop wagon and ordered a t-shirt for my daughter.
Awesome! Thank you! Hope your daughter loves the tee ☺️
awesome video as always! me and my partner are also getting into board climbing right now, so we were wondering if you have a list of all the problems! thank you so much!
I’ll try and find the complete list - I didn’t quite know after the session but a few people have mentioned climb names ☺️
Proj braj is such a great kilter boulder. I recommend every try it, it’s the second boulder in this video. It’s v4 at 30° and v7 at 40°, and it works great at both
Oh wait, they did it at 40 in this as well😅 anyway, my recommendation still stands
Wow, no wonder that last move is a lot harder at 40 degrees, that's a big jump!
proj braj is such a sick boulder and the last move looked absolutely impossible when I tried it the first time... Really strong climbing Hannah!
It's such a cool set of moves - excited to try it again once I'm near an adjustable Kilter :)
@@hannahmorrisbouldering What actually helped me was trying it at a steeper angle, after that, the moves at 40 didn't feel so bad anymore lol
So insightful, great video 🦥
Really glad to hear it was useful 💪☺️
😍WIII!!! NEW HANNA'S VIDEO!!!
Love this board climbing content! Recently got into board climbing and I think for intermediate level climbers that are reaching a plateau this is such a great tool. What do you think Hannah?
Absolutely! Board climbing is something I’ve done more consistently this year to work on momentum and more explosive movement and I think I’ve definitely see a difference in how I climb. Glad you liked the video - hopefully more board content in the future!
Such impressive climbing Hannah! Inspiration 😄😁😁
Thank you so much! Thanks for watching ✨✨
Hi Hannah. Well done on the climbs. Learning a lot from these videos. I wonder if you have tried the moonboard or could share some more board climb videos with different boards and how different the style of climbs across the boards?
I’ve tried the Moonboard in videos before but I find it super difficult. I also have a wooden board near me that’s quite nice to train on but other than that my board climbing experience is a bit limited. I do love the Kiler though ☺️✨
Alex Puccio!!!!! AAAAAHHH
Queen
I've been bouldering and climbing on and off for about 10 years and I still learned a lot from this video! Can't wait to apply these things in my next session!
Am I the only one who would have loved to cuddle that dog in the background? 🥰
That’s really nice to hear, glad you find the videos useful ✌️
We constantly are cuddling the dogs here. : )
Moving smoooooth! Something I've noticed you do that I used to do frequently and have had to re-learn when to actually do it, is the leg flick done when you only have three points of contact (both hands and one foot) example @27:53 - often a handy move to generate a moment of weightlessness, thus allowing an opportunity to readjust a hand when necessary. It kinda becomes woven in to your style of climbing and sometimes occurs when not needed (such as in the example time, in which you flick your right leg as described but do not adjust your hands because they were already in the best spot for the holds) in theory this'll sap energy that could be needed for a move later on in the climb, especially on steeper boulders.
Not meant to be a negative criticism just thought it may be useful to point out.
I actually disagree, a leg flick like that is to dissapate momentum. It helps you reduce the load placed on your fingers and arms compared to if you just tense your body and don't flick your leg
Think about what would happen if you tensed your body while on a bad hold with momentum pulling you away from the wall, either you need to grip harder to avoid your body swinging away from the wall or your entire body position will change forcing you to grip harder to avoid swinging away from the wall/having your grip position on the hold change
It's not like she was stationary and just arbitrarily did a leg flick, she had momentum which she wanted to stop
@@xinsanedefeatx I agree in contexts where there is momentum to kill. That is another great example of a necessary use of this movement. However in the example timestamp you can see there is no momentum heading leftwards at the time of the flick as her center of mass had already shifted back to the right and had settled in the optimum position
@@xinsanedefeatx your description is often referred to as the "Janja flick", what I was discussing is applied differently and is a flick done when in a stationary position. Think of it as a pogo in order to readjust a hand
💪 💪 energy
POOOWWER
Good stuff!
Thank you!
Whenever a V3 shuts me down, i just say it has some major issues it should work on, probably with the help of a professional, and that there are just too many red flags to continue seeing eachother.
I feel that Puccio dropped some deep knowledge in that session
Pucc Power 💥
so much good infos
Glad to hear it ☺️
It was nice to meet you today! Are there many full sized Kilter boards around? It would be great to train on one without having to drive hundreds of miles.
Great to meet you too - hope you had a good session. Not sure about full size. I know there’s a few adjustable, further up north mostly but Harrowall just got one. The closest Kilter I know of is Stronghold or Harrow, and Matchworks Hangar just installed one!
@hannahmorrisbouldering thank you for the info! I am planning the next road trip now.
There are a ton of 12x12 in the world and this new larger 16x12 expansion size is starting to get out there! Luckily it shares all the 12x12 problems, it just ads even more on the edges!
Nice job team!
Thanks for having us, we loved the space! :)
I haven't had a smart phone in over 18months and just literally bought a 200$$ nokia smart phone just so I can start getting into kilter board.
Worth every penny 🤩🙌
Wow, big compliment, thank you!
🗽 Hannah is VERY LUCKY to have a mentor like Alex, a world-class climber.
A friend of mine is in my gym probably one of the best boulderers, but he doesn't tell me so much about technical things.
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Goddamn your channel dope, love it!
Appreciate that! ✨
Can you maybe post the names and the grades/steepness of the climbs? :)
The name and grade for the main project should be on screen as we change the angles - for Proj Braj, we started off at 30 and progressed to 40, with a couple of attempts at 35 to learn the move. I'm not sure what it is that we warmed up on. :)
What is this climbing gym?!
Its the Kilter office space in Boulder, CO
If you are in Boulder hit us up and you can visit!
When you're not feeling confident, just be confident instead.
Definitly ways to train confidence, or find it when you’re not feeling it in the moment 💪
seeing these two together reminds me the level of appropriate climbing cleavage when choosing an outfit to make a professional climbing video considering the trash on instagram that is popular in climbing. As the bar gets lower, so do the shirts.
DOGGY
🗽 Hanna probably needs a lot more strength training... Alex is amazing strong, stronger than most male climbers, I know!
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