Hey Suzie, Missing your videos, hope you are ok, i am a carpenter with 35 years experience and learnt so much from you. If you have given up, many thanks and i appreciate the hard work you put in.
Susan, I am pleased to be acquainted with your site/channel. I, too was a commercial carpenter (wood butcher) most of my career. I am not a very good student, but some of my teachers, professors, Masters had an innate ability to reach the way my mind works and the 'light bulb' came on. Most did not. You have that ability and I thank The Universe for it. I truly hope that whatever endevours (sic. for you Americans) you pursue, you continue to remember and utililise (sic.) Your gift. I have been a drummer all my life, but my grandfather, Ernest Montoya, tried to teach me guitar when I was ten years of age and gifted to me a cheap old guitar and when i moved away I messed around with it for a while but soon gave up and went back to my beloved drums. I am now, 53 years later, just learning the magic secrets of the guitar, and the mistake i made by giving up back then. Thank you for helping me understand things that my grandfather probably did not know, even though he was a precision machinist. Cheers!
Like many others, I miss your videos and hope things are going well. The videos are entertaining and extremely informative. Following the project has been great.
Hi Susan, I have watched your youtube for the full guitar build. Then heard you on the Crimson Guitar two day build a few days ago. So glad to see you are OK and look forward to the remainder of the build. Good luck with the new workshop. From South Africa. 😀
Susan, I hope all is well with you? I know I speak for alot of your fans were waiting on a new vid for this guitar.. Again I hope you are well. God Bless
This is the most recent Video I can find and it's four months old, "your videos are very conspicuous by their absence" I hope you are well & OK and am looking forward to seeing more videos soon. I would like to wish you a Happy New Year .
Susan I've just binge-watched your whole guitar build series and it's awesome!!! I discovered that this is the last video you've updated and that's already a long time ago. Hope you're healthy and happy!! Thanks a lot for the series and if there will be more videos i would love to see them!!
@@SusanGardener fingers crossed soon although I imagine Covid probably didn’t help. I had a similar holdup with the demolition of a large office building then the building of 400 flats next to my workshop preventing me from working there for 3 years. 😢
Sue, I hope you are well. I have been searching for your posts but can't find them. We believe that you present amazing videos and are missing seeing them. Best wishes
center punch the holes, it stops the drill walking. Use a center drill bit that machinists use to start the holes. They are very short and will not flex. Push the drill table as high up as possible so that the quill has less travel required. The jig must be held parallel to ensure it will give a straight line of holes.
Broadly agree but: 1. You would need to test first, an awl would be better than a centre drill as the hole that leaves would be larger than the spear point of the harpoon bit. 2. I did think that you ought to check the drill is parallel, but the fence actually does that. (The error at the end was due to the way the wood was tapered).
Stephen Gent there might be a problem using a centre drill and then a brad point drill. What might be better is to drive the brad point, non rotating, deeply into the wood and then start the drill.
the beauty of a brad point bit is that once the tip has acquired it runs quite true. these machines have too much slop in the quill and spindle to do really accurate work. so sticking an awl into the first cross for the first hole would plenty good enough. the jig and index pin will keep the spacing well within a tenth of a mm if you allow it to float slightly but still keep some finger pressure to keep the work and table from walking away. the real key to success with one of these junky little drill presses is to run the drill as fast as you can. the slower it turns, the more torque is being applied to the work, making it wander. a 5mm brad point drill should be spinning at 1500 to 2500 rpm if the machine can give it up. rule of thumb is that smaller drills need to spin faster than larger diameters, it's to do the optimal cutting speed of the drill material itself..
thank you Susan . if i may offer a bit of advise . use a center drill it is for starting holes . i used them in machine shops . they will help. center drills are short as a drill bit is long there by exacerbating the run out of the quill .
I did message her a while ago to make sure all was well with her, and she said it was, and that a new video would be a "few days away". But that's getting more than a few now. Might be worth others sending msgs of support, just in case there is a problem?
Thanks for this! I'm trying to drill holes for a string-thru-body bridge, as you mentioned, so this is very inspiring and helpful. The issue I have is that I can't align the edge of the curved body with a fence, but I could make a jig and use it to drill the holes. That is, after I've plugged the ones I messed up...! The perfect practise piece you did made me laugh. I'm glad I'm not the only one who does that! Thanks again, and this video got a subscribe from me :)
The jig will almost ensure 'pairs' of holes are a 'close' to your requirement. However, as an example if your centre distance was 10mm and you jig was in error by 0.3mm (about as good as the vernier will give you the way it is being used) that is a 3% error. As we move from one side to the other the errors will compound. If we drill the two end holes at 55mm centres using the same method with the same measurement accuracy, the error is now only 0.55%. If you drill another 3 holes at 66, 77 and 110mm on your jig, you can drill your first hole and your sixth hole from the jig using the 55mm centres and then you can use the extra three holes with the jig reversed to give you exact replicas into the centre of your bridge. Looking at your drill, you need more speed to prevent the tip wandering or a much stiffer drill (a carbide or cobalt one). The jig needs to be a lot harder than the wood piece you are using. I saw from when you were aligning the drill with the jig the drill was pushing over. As the jig is as soft as the material you are cutting and the flutes of the drill are cutting edges, you will alter the top surface of you jig every time you use it, whichever way the drill pushes. A piece of brass or mild steel would be much better at guiding the drill. Finally you need a back stop between your bridge fence and the jig, otherwise it will always wander and it needs to be clamped down. Just turning the drill one caused it to move as can be seen in the video.
Glad somebody is addressing this challenge. I've been asking myself "is it just me or is it really hard to pull off perfectly spaced holes in a straight line?" Indeed I think if one has used a punch to mark the spots with precision and they're still running into problems then it likely comes down to the lack of quality of the drill press. And I agree that a six hole jig is the way to go for this job. Thanks.
Hello Susan.I hope all is well with you and you are keeping yourself and family safe. All my love for a speedy return to your viewers and subscribers. Regards. Raymond.
I use a nail or punch to make an indentation.Then I use a tiny drill bit to make a starter hole. This one tends not to travel at all.Then a little bit bigger one. Slowly working my way to the final size. Graph paper and using an electronics circuit prototype board work good to make evenly spaced holes.
Just marking the holes accurately with an awl along a ruler gives you good precision too. The center point drill will follow the awl mark. You always need to mark the position with an awl or center punch on hard material, or use a jig, even if you use a 100 000 € drill. A drill is always flexible. If you don't guide it, it will find it's own way from irregularities in the material or something. Wenge will throw the drill randomly around. All woods that have a big difference in the hard and soft grain are difficult to drill accurately without a rigid jig. Wenge is probably the worst.
Nice method ! I'm looking for a method to drill the tuner holes. Your method will probably do. However I think I'm going to fabricate a metal template which I can stick onto the headstock and then using those holes to guide a drill bit used for metal. Anyway thank You for this nice idea
I don't work to anything like that level of accuracy but I would always - measure, mark, prick (with an awl or centre punch) before drilling. Once there is a hole, the bit will find it (within reason) and will follow it. You can do a first prick for accuracy, then a give it a go with something stronger which will widen and deepen the hole (same principle as Paul Seller's knife wall - a gentle but accurate pass to establish the line, then a firmer deeper pass to give the guide).
Susan - a more serious matter - I just watched 'I am not a lawyer' and I was not aware of things at all. You are a very attractive and super intelligent lady. I am sorry to hear about all the hardship during the 80's, but glad you never have let anybody put you down, stating your rights. I am so looking forward to this build to finish and wish you all the luck. I learned so much from your videos! Much love, George.
You are effectively making a dowelling jig. I would say look at commercial dowelling jigs for inspiration. I use the Joint Genie dowelling jig. Something like that might work, don’t know if one of their dowelling bars has the correct hole diameter for your needs and then just use indexing pins if required.
Some great advise in the comments(using an awl, drilling before shaping, registering fence with template, etc. ) should eliminate a lot of error. If you use that same stick on template regularly, you might also consider making a router jig.
Good idea Susie, but needs refining.A twist drill ,either a lip and spur, or ordinary jobbers twist drill, will remove some material from the helix lands. So it will get increasingly more inaccurate. Use a centre/slocomb drill to drill a small pilot. The slocomb has no helix, therefor no side cutting.You can also get a centre drill mounted in a No 2 morse taper, to replace the chuck in the drill's quill.
No DoNaSbaR, you was mistaken. She did not come back with new videos. Something very wrong has happened here and nobody know what! Not even a simple clue. It's so sad. Well, let's wait a couple more years for news. Bye😮💨
Hope all is well! It occurred to me that the longitudinal accuracy could be improved if the jig extended to the fence, with a surface parallel to it. That way the first hole registers off the fence. The subsequent holes will each register against it as well. So in using the pin, you will now have a constant in two dimensions.
Thank you for this could you have clamped another fence at the front so locking the wood in, I have seen Peter Millard @10minuteworkshop using a router and a fence to drill accurate shelf holes
You need a Machinists Wriggler. It's a tool that machinist uses to find the location of the center lines for a hole. It has a shaft with a ball-joint. The other end has ball on the end of a pin point shaft. The way it works is, you chuck it up, and turn the drill press on. The pin point shaft will spin around. You, then push on the shaft, slowly, to align this tip of the shaft till it runs true. It's some what awkward to describe how it works, but it is easy to do. The are relatively, inexpensive. under $50.00 US. I own one from England. If you have good eyesight you can locate a hole with in 0.005 of an inch true position.
i just meet you channel and i think is great! you are building a guitar or guitars for a years... i like all the theory, but i would like to see the results where are your finished guitars?
Sue, Wouldn't some degree of clamping during the drilling process have made everything easier, and more accurate? Also, how about a jig of some sort that positioned the work to the exact spacing you needed?
Might I Make a suggestions for what I think the problem to be. Seems to me the problem is your jig is not consistently staying parallel with your drill press fence. My suggestion to correct this would be to add a temporary fence That is the correct width between your jig and your drill press fence. This way as you moved your gig along you would have a surface to bear against. providing everything Is square all should work fine. There are other ways but I believe this to be the easiest.
Hi Susan, I hope you're ok. Sending lots of good vibes your way. I used to watch your videos years ago and recently went searching for you and noticed you haven't made anything for 2 years. That's of course your prerogative if you just decided to stop but I am sending wishes that you are well!
Hi Susan, why not use the perfect test piece as your guide? I would recommend using the small jig to create a bigger jig, stick it, clamp it or hot glue to your final piece, or let wo nails in the guide just protrude so it won't slip.
Good solid thinking here. I wonder if there is a way to register your two-holed template against a back fence as well as having a pin in that first hole. Otherwise there is potential for pivoting that little block ever-so-slightly for the subsequent holes, no?
I thought about adding a 3rd hole to the template but the danger is you end up with a curve of holes if your template isn’t absolutely spot on. Maybe the UA-cam hive mind has a solution
@@SusanGardener I'd think a precisely made 3 hole jig with two pins would guarantee straight holes. First the 3 holes could be drilled against the fence to ensure they are in a straight line, so once you've got 2 holes drilled into the bridge you can fix the jig with 2 pins that would then ensure perfect alignment every time i.e. a straight line. Your 2-holed jig bears the danger of misalignment. Does that make sense?
A three hole, two pin version was my first thought as well since eyeballing the linearity along a drawn/routered line can be as inaccurate as drilling on a paper template. Then I started thinking about putting a bridge piece into the slot as a fence for the jig to lean on. The center drill bit mentioned by Stephen Gent sounds like the perfect tool for the job.
Perfect suggestion for this jig technique, plus any remaining error will be symmetrical to the center. (As long as she can keep the jig parallel to the fence.)
Try cutting some length off the drill bit. I think the shorter the bit the less wobble it will produce. Also making the jig wide enough to ride against the back fence should result in holes that line up perfectly.
I'm thinking that the jig with the pin was still relying on how parallel you held it to the fence. Without a way to stop it's rotation, you are still "eyeballing" the straightness of the row of holes. I would make a stop that would limit its rotation.
Susan, There is a third dimension that can be important. How level is the drill table? Use a spirit level in each direction to assure vertical drilling. You may need to put a false (and larger) top on the table, with hanger bolts through the slots and designed to take clamps, the fence ,and maybe shaped corners. The comments below confirm your locating pin method is standard practice, preferably with two pins. Bernard.
Hey Suzie,
Missing your videos, hope you are ok, i am a carpenter with 35 years experience and learnt so much from you. If you have given up, many thanks and i appreciate the hard work you put in.
Where are you, Susan? The 'build' suspense is killing us! :-)
I've asked the same question hope nothing has happened to her love see it finished
Nothing from her since 3 yrs ago,did the bandsaw eat her up??
Where are you susan? Can we have an update. Hope you are okay x
@@wayneoconnell55314 year old mystery!!
Susan, I am pleased to be acquainted with your site/channel. I, too was a commercial carpenter (wood butcher) most of my career. I am not a very good student, but some of my teachers, professors, Masters had an innate ability to reach the way my mind works and the 'light bulb' came on. Most did not. You have that ability and I thank The Universe for it. I truly hope that whatever endevours (sic. for you Americans) you pursue, you continue to remember and utililise (sic.) Your gift. I have been a drummer all my life, but my grandfather, Ernest Montoya, tried to teach me guitar when I was ten years of age and gifted to me a cheap old guitar and when i moved away I messed around with it for a while but soon gave up and went back to my beloved drums. I am now, 53 years later, just learning the magic secrets of the guitar, and the mistake i made by giving up back then. Thank you for helping me understand things that my grandfather probably did not know, even though he was a precision machinist. Cheers!
Like many others, I miss your videos and hope things are going well. The videos are entertaining and extremely informative. Following the project has been great.
Are you still here ? It´s been 4 years since the last video.
Hello Susan. Where you hiding yourself these days? I am pretty sure that I am not tthe only one missing your presence. Thanks for the videos!
Still craving more Susan Gardener videos, really want for see how the guitar turned out.
Hi Suzzie - really missing your posts. Can't seem to contact you any other way. Hope you are okay. Cheers Terry (Paintpash)
Hi susie, just wondering where you are??? I really really miss your videos, please please please post more :)
Susan, I hope you continue making these videos, I've been learning a lot from them. They've even inspired me to put up a few build videos of my own.
Hello Susan. How are you? We miss your videos. I hope everything is ok. Looking forward to some future videos. Greetings from 🇨🇦 Canada
No sign of you Sue for 11 months,I am seriously worried but hoping you're ok.xxx
Come back to us Susie, We miss you.
Hi Susan, I have watched your youtube for the full guitar build. Then heard you on the Crimson Guitar two day build a few days ago. So glad to see you are OK and look forward to the remainder of the build. Good luck with the new workshop. From South Africa. 😀
We miss you,Susan!.
✌🏻❤️
What happened to your videos? You do an awesome job of explaining instrument building . . . you are missed by many!!!
Susan, I hope all is well with you? I know I speak for alot of your fans were waiting on a new vid for this guitar.. Again I hope you are well. God Bless
This is the most recent Video I can find and it's four months old, "your videos are very conspicuous by their absence" I hope you are well & OK and am looking forward to seeing more videos soon. I would like to wish you a Happy New Year .
I agree. I just found the channel and love it. I can't find any other social media posts either, unless I'm overlooking them.
Susan I've just binge-watched your whole guitar build series and it's awesome!!! I discovered that this is the last video you've updated and that's already a long time ago. Hope you're healthy and happy!! Thanks a lot for the series and if there will be more videos i would love to see them!!
There will be more videos once I’ve moved workshops - nearly there.
@@SusanGardener that's awesome!! Good luck with your 'workshop moving business'😁😁
@@SusanGardener BS
@@SusanGardener Have you given up with the vids ??
@@SusanGardener fingers crossed soon although I imagine Covid probably didn’t help. I had a similar holdup with the demolition of a large office building then the building of 400 flats next to my workshop preventing me from working there for 3 years. 😢
Hi Susan. All is well? Hope so!!
Loyal fan and viewer, still here :) Waiting to see how your build turned out. I would have rebuilt that bridge too!
Really missing your videos. Hope all is well.
Simple fix in the end. With the taper for the pins, it will never show. Well done. Another informative and fun video.
Susan, I hope all is well. Like many others I'm concerned by your absence.
Sue, I hope you are well. I have been searching for your posts but can't find them. We believe that you present amazing videos and are missing seeing them. Best wishes
Excellent work and big respect for your idea !
Are you ok Susan? Miss your videos. You got me into wood working ❤️
center punch the holes, it stops the drill walking. Use a center drill bit that machinists use to start the holes. They are very short and will not flex. Push the drill table as high up as possible so that the quill has less travel required. The jig must be held parallel to ensure it will give a straight line of holes.
Broadly agree but:
1. You would need to test first, an awl would be better than a centre drill as the hole that leaves would be larger than the spear point of the harpoon bit.
2. I did think that you ought to check the drill is parallel, but the fence actually does that. (The error at the end was due to the way the wood was tapered).
Stephen Gent there might be a problem using a centre drill and then a brad point drill. What might be better is to drive the brad point, non rotating, deeply into the wood and then start the drill.
I was wondering if someone would mention a center punch -- good call.
the beauty of a brad point bit is that once the tip has acquired it runs quite true. these machines have too much slop in the quill and spindle to do really accurate work. so sticking an awl into the first cross for the first hole would plenty good enough. the jig and index pin will keep the spacing well within a tenth of a mm if you allow it to float slightly but still keep some finger pressure to keep the work and table from walking away.
the real key to success with one of these junky little drill presses is to run the drill as fast as you can. the slower it turns, the more torque is being applied to the work, making it wander. a 5mm brad point drill should be spinning at 1500 to 2500 rpm if the machine can give it up.
rule of thumb is that smaller drills need to spin faster than larger diameters, it's to do the optimal cutting speed of the drill material itself..
Good tip, showing the mistakes helps too, & enjoyable to watch. Thanks!
thank you Susan . if i may offer a bit of advise . use a center drill it is for starting holes . i used them in machine shops . they will help. center drills are short as a drill bit is long there by exacerbating the run out of the quill .
Hello, found your interesting channel I think you have a good idea for drilling the holes, look forward to the next episode.
I’d suggest raising the table to get the workpiece within 5mm of the drill to minimise drill ‘wobble’
Great info. I have exactly that drill press under Wolf branding.
Hi Susan just got hooked on your cool guitar video's,are you gonna put out more vids we miss you 😊
Hi Susan... still waiting to see how the acoustic project works out. No videos for a while. Hope all is OK. Please let us know if all is well???
I did message her a while ago to make sure all was well with her, and she said it was, and that a new video would be a "few days away". But that's getting more than a few now. Might be worth others sending msgs of support, just in case there is a problem?
Dean Penny Yes. Hoping all is well, Susan. Even just a post to let us all know that you are well would be nice.
Eventually the guitar imploded over night and she don't want to talk about it , because she's ashamed about it and ............😠
Thanks for this! I'm trying to drill holes for a string-thru-body bridge, as you mentioned, so this is very inspiring and helpful. The issue I have is that I can't align the edge of the curved body with a fence, but I could make a jig and use it to drill the holes. That is, after I've plugged the ones I messed up...! The perfect practise piece you did made me laugh. I'm glad I'm not the only one who does that! Thanks again, and this video got a subscribe from me :)
I miss content from this channel :
Good call plugging the two wonky holes and redrilling using the "test jig".
This is a great solution. Thanks!
Still check your channel from time to time to see if you’re back. Wishing you well.
Hope you're well and come back Susie. You're a big help and just a great entertainer too!! :)
From her Facebook
Susan Gardener:
”I’ll be resuming eventually - I’m setting up a new workshop but the plague has delayed things somewhat”
The jig will almost ensure 'pairs' of holes are a 'close' to your requirement. However, as an example if your centre distance was 10mm and you jig was in error by 0.3mm (about as good as the vernier will give you the way it is being used) that is a 3% error. As we move from one side to the other the errors will compound. If we drill the two end holes at 55mm centres using the same method with the same measurement accuracy, the error is now only 0.55%. If you drill another 3 holes at 66, 77 and 110mm on your jig, you can drill your first hole and your sixth hole from the jig using the 55mm centres and then you can use the extra three holes with the jig reversed to give you exact replicas into the centre of your bridge. Looking at your drill, you need more speed to prevent the tip wandering or a much stiffer drill (a carbide or cobalt one). The jig needs to be a lot harder than the wood piece you are using. I saw from when you were aligning the drill with the jig the drill was pushing over. As the jig is as soft as the material you are cutting and the flutes of the drill are cutting edges, you will alter the top surface of you jig every time you use it, whichever way the drill pushes. A piece of brass or mild steel would be much better at guiding the drill. Finally you need a back stop between your bridge fence and the jig, otherwise it will always wander and it needs to be clamped down. Just turning the drill one caused it to move as can be seen in the video.
Another great video 👍
Glad somebody is addressing this challenge. I've been asking myself "is it just me or is it really hard to pull off perfectly spaced holes in a straight line?" Indeed I think if one has used a punch to mark the spots with precision and they're still running into problems then it likely comes down to the lack of quality of the drill press. And I agree that a six hole jig is the way to go for this job. Thanks.
Hello Susan.I hope all is well with you and you are keeping yourself and family safe. All my love for a speedy return to your viewers and subscribers. Regards. Raymond.
I use a nail or punch to make an indentation.Then I use a tiny drill bit to make a starter hole. This one tends not to travel at all.Then a little bit bigger one. Slowly working my way to the final size. Graph paper and using an electronics circuit prototype board work good to make evenly spaced holes.
Just marking the holes accurately with an awl along a ruler gives you good precision too. The center point drill will follow the awl mark. You always need to mark the position with an awl or center punch on hard material, or use a jig, even if you use a 100 000 € drill. A drill is always flexible. If you don't guide it, it will find it's own way from irregularities in the material or something. Wenge will throw the drill randomly around. All woods that have a big difference in the hard and soft grain are difficult to drill accurately without a rigid jig. Wenge is probably the worst.
Nice method !
I'm looking for a method to drill the tuner holes.
Your method will probably do.
However I think I'm going to fabricate a metal template which I can stick onto the headstock and then using those holes to guide a drill bit used for metal.
Anyway thank You for this nice idea
Susan, missing your videos!
You are amazing.multi task woman
I don't work to anything like that level of accuracy but I would always - measure, mark, prick (with an awl or centre punch) before drilling. Once there is a hole, the bit will find it (within reason) and will follow it. You can do a first prick for accuracy, then a give it a go with something stronger which will widen and deepen the hole (same principle as Paul Seller's knife wall - a gentle but accurate pass to establish the line, then a firmer deeper pass to give the guide).
Hi Susan
we miss you!
Ci manchi!!!
These are the kind of projects where I plug my drill press into a footswitch. That helps so much.
It has a NVR switch so I’d have to bypass that to use a foot switch
If you use a momentary contact footswitch, rather than a latching switch, it won't invalidate the function of the NVR. wire them in parallel.
Susan - a more serious matter - I just watched 'I am not a lawyer' and I was not aware of things at all. You are a very attractive and super intelligent lady. I am sorry to hear about all the hardship during the 80's, but glad you never have let anybody put you down, stating your rights. I am so looking forward to this build to finish and wish you all the luck. I learned so much from your videos! Much love, George.
You are effectively making a dowelling jig. I would say look at commercial dowelling jigs for inspiration.
I use the Joint Genie dowelling jig. Something like that might work, don’t know if one of their dowelling bars has the correct hole diameter for your needs and then just use indexing pins if required.
Hope you are safe and well. Missing your videos.
Some great advise in the comments(using an awl, drilling before shaping, registering fence with template, etc. ) should eliminate a lot of error. If you use that same stick on template regularly, you might also consider making a router jig.
I use a dremel with a router base to make the holes, small carbide bit indexed on a template
Good idea Susie, but needs refining.A twist drill ,either a lip and spur, or ordinary jobbers twist drill, will remove some material from the helix lands. So it will get increasingly more inaccurate. Use a centre/slocomb drill to drill a small pilot. The slocomb has no helix, therefor no side cutting.You can also get a centre drill mounted in a No 2 morse taper, to replace the chuck in the drill's quill.
You ever coming back to your channel?
Today, is a happy day! I knew Susan Gardener is OK ! And she are coming with more videos! I can hardly wait !
No DoNaSbaR, you was mistaken. She did not come back with new videos. Something very wrong has happened here and nobody know what! Not even a simple clue. It's so sad. Well, let's wait a couple more years for news. Bye😮💨
looking forward to new updates. everything is ok?
Two years Susan!!. Fingers crossed you’re ok.
Hope all is well! It occurred to me that the longitudinal accuracy could be improved if the jig extended to the fence, with a surface parallel to it. That way the first hole registers off the fence. The subsequent holes will each register against it as well. So in using the pin, you will now have a constant in two dimensions.
@@henrycross8776 Women know how to use tools and make stuff with their hands, too. Don't be difficult.
What happened where are you
Hi Susan! You haven't posted a video in 4 month, why? I hope you are not sick or something. Please let us know!
Susan, Exactly, centre punch the holes. How important is it to be exact? You are really making hard work for yourself, Cheers
Thank you for this could you have clamped another fence at the front so locking the wood in, I have seen Peter Millard @10minuteworkshop using a router and a fence to drill accurate shelf holes
I know we will see that cool guitar finished some day!! :) Be well SuGar!
You need a Machinists Wriggler. It's a tool that machinist uses to find the location of the center lines for a hole. It has a shaft with a ball-joint. The other end has ball on the end of a pin point shaft. The way it works is, you chuck it up, and turn the drill press on. The pin point shaft will spin around. You, then push on the shaft, slowly, to align this tip of the shaft till it runs true. It's some what awkward to describe how it works, but it is easy to do. The are relatively, inexpensive. under $50.00 US. I own one from England. If you have good eyesight you can locate a hole with in 0.005 of an inch true position.
i just meet you channel and i think is great! you are building a guitar or guitars for a years... i like all the theory, but i would like to see the results where are your finished guitars?
Not heard anything from Susan for quite a while........hopefully all is well with her, and the project is on track.
Susan ? I’m up to 52, I’m sure I saw higher numbered episodes. Am I dreaming, I can’t find them now? Color me perplexed. Love your stuff. !
Are you still around Susan
You can fix the holes with the tapered reamer which you need to fit the pegs anyway...
Sue, Wouldn't some degree of clamping during the drilling process have made everything easier, and more accurate? Also, how about a jig of some sort that positioned the work to the exact spacing you needed?
Great idea. I think id go further and make a 6 hole template out of metal, then drill and peg the end holes first.
What software do you use to create and print your templates? Thanks for this video, there are some great tips in here.
What had happened to you hopefully you are ok was looking forward to seeing it finished
Might I Make a suggestions for what I think the problem to be. Seems to me the problem is your jig is not consistently staying parallel with your drill press fence. My suggestion to correct this would be to add a temporary fence That is the correct width between your jig and your drill press fence. This way as you moved your gig along you would have a surface to bear against. providing everything Is square all should work fine. There are other ways but I believe this to be the easiest.
Hi Susan, I hope you're ok. Sending lots of good vibes your way. I used to watch your videos years ago and recently went searching for you and noticed you haven't made anything for 2 years. That's of course your prerogative if you just decided to stop but I am sending wishes that you are well!
Hi Susan, why not use the perfect test piece as your guide? I would recommend using the small jig to create a bigger jig, stick it, clamp it or hot glue to your final piece, or let wo nails in the guide just protrude so it won't slip.
hope all is well
Susan Gardener missing no action !
When is the next video? Not giving up are you?
Good solid thinking here. I wonder if there is a way to register your two-holed template against a back fence as well as having a pin in that first hole. Otherwise there is potential for pivoting that little block ever-so-slightly for the subsequent holes, no?
I thought about adding a 3rd hole to the template but the danger is you end up with a curve of holes if your template isn’t absolutely spot on.
Maybe the UA-cam hive mind has a solution
@@SusanGardener I'd think a precisely made 3 hole jig with two pins would guarantee straight holes. First the 3 holes could be drilled against the fence to ensure they are in a straight line, so once you've got 2 holes drilled into the bridge you can fix the jig with 2 pins that would then ensure perfect alignment every time i.e. a straight line. Your 2-holed jig bears the danger of misalignment. Does that make sense?
A three hole, two pin version was my first thought as well since eyeballing the linearity along a drawn/routered line can be as inaccurate as drilling on a paper template. Then I started thinking about putting a bridge piece into the slot as a fence for the jig to lean on. The center drill bit mentioned by Stephen Gent sounds like the perfect tool for the job.
@@bradstewart6319 Brad, that is what I tried to convey in my comment. Makes sense to me. :)
Why not start with one of the two middle holes, halving the margin for error?
Perfect suggestion for this jig technique, plus any remaining error will be symmetrical to the center. (As long as she can keep the jig parallel to the fence.)
We miss you , where you go , hope all is well
Try cutting some length off the drill bit. I think the shorter the bit the less wobble it will produce. Also making the jig wide enough to ride against the back fence should result in holes that line up perfectly.
I've been waiting five months for the next feature. Why the delay?
what brand of bandsaw blades do you use susan, cheers
If you drill the second hole first you'd get better alignment to the mark plus by moving the jig 180deg you would have the third hole perfect as well!
I'm thinking that the jig with the pin was still relying on how parallel you held it to the fence. Without a way to stop it's rotation, you are still "eyeballing" the straightness of the row of holes. I would make a stop that would limit its rotation.
Hi Hope all is well you haven’t uploaded for quite some time missing your videos I hope you will be back with us soon x
Susan, There is a third dimension that can be important. How level is the drill table? Use a spirit level in each direction to assure vertical drilling. You may need to put a false (and larger) top on the table, with hanger bolts through the slots and designed to take clamps, the fence ,and maybe shaped corners. The comments below confirm your locating pin method is standard practice, preferably with two pins. Bernard.
The table was level. Somewhere on my channel I have a video on levelling the table using a bent piece of coat hanger wire.
Hope you are well Susie? Loving the videos, but its been a long time since the last one. Hope all is well
Great job, but how did you make the dowel rod for the pins?
The metal dowel rod is a sawn off 4.5mm twist drill
love you !
good enough. Rob
Anyone know if Susan is going to be making more videos?