Aircraft Oil Filter Removal, Installation, and Inspection

In this video I will share with you how I change the oil filter on our Lycoming O-360. I’ll share with you the steps taken, the tools used, and the frequency of oil and filter replacements. Ill cover filter installation, and safety wires, and Ill share with you how to use your old oil filter as an important diagnostic tool to monitor the health of your engine, and finally I’ll share with you where to get help. Hope you find this useful.
DISCLAIMER
Much of the information presented here is based on our own knowledge and research and should be considered for informational purposes only. Ensure that all safety measures are utilized. Any action you take upon the information in this video is strictly at your own risk.

[@JK-rv9tp]

Very nice video. Put a folded paper towel in the bag. Helps a lot with limiting what inevitably leaks out. I inspect the pleats visually, then I throw them in a container of varsol and agitate for a while to wash any particles out. Then I use a neodium magnet from an ID badge held in forceps, and stir the varsol, being careful to rub the magnet against all the surfaces as well as all though the liquid. By then pretty much any ferrous metal is stuck to the magnet. Then I let the magnet dry off and inspect. I usually get a bit of ferrous mud and microscopic fuzz sticking and a maybe couple of tiny metal particles like shavings, which may have come from hacking the can open. I then dump the varsol into a black plastic tray, let it sit to settle for a while, than carefully drain the varsol and check what's left behind, like panning for gold. Non-ferrous particles are obvious against the black plastic. I normally see just tiny flecks of what are probably aluminum, but nothing significant. Breathe a sigh of relief for another 50 hrs. Yes that tool is awful. I get a cleaner job using a sharp wood chisel. My engine is an O-290. It has moderately high oil consumption, about a US qt in 5 hrs, so I don't change the oil until 50 hrs since the entire supply is replaced over 30 hrs. I use Aeroshell 5W50, because running on mogas there are no downsides to using it and it's far superior to any other multigrade if you aren't running on leaded fuel, being half PAO synthetic.

[@LifeIsShortDIY]

Love your folded paper towel in the bag idea. I will be doing that moving forward. Thank you.
Please share more of your knowledge on the 5W50 aeroshell, if not using 100LL. I would like to learn more about that.
Cheers

[@JK-rv9tp]

@@LifeIsShortDIY Polyalfaolefin (PAO) based synthetic oils are superior to mineral oil in every way. Multigrade ability without adding thickening agent (VI index improver), better lubrication, doesn't "wear out", lower pour point, higher flash point. Mobil introduced AV1 full synthetic in the late 80s but it was a disaster b/c the molecule is *too slick*, and even with dispersants, can't hold lead byproducts from 100LL in suspension and it was withdrawn (a mineral hydrocarbon is a like a piece of fuzzy string - a PAO hydrocarbon molecule is like a wet noodle). Google "AV1 lead paint class action suit". Shell makes 15W50 with half and half, enough mineral to keep lead in suspension, enough PAO synthetic to achieve a 15/50 multigrade rating without VI Improvers. Mike Busch the Savvy guy doesn't like AS 15W50 on engines using avgas because on some big Lycs with small sumps they still see lead paint (not enough mineral oil at 50/50). But on unleaded fuel that is not an issue and he is a big booster. If the unleaded avgas really catches on so it's in wide use, you might even see Mobil bring back AV1. There are articles on Shell's website about 15W50's composition and characteristics. Amazon sells an automotive filter cutter that looks like a proper design for about $30 but you have to drill a hole in it to allow for the male threaded boss on the filter. Gonna get one of those.