Great info, thanks for sharing! I’ve been building wheels as a hobby for 20 years, and every one of them tensioned using the same Park Tools TM-1 tension gauge. I also keep a copy of “the Bicycle Wheel”, 3rd edition, by Jobst Brandt on my bench, and I refer to it often when explaining wheel building to friends and customers. I am very impressed by how well balanced the tension readings were on the wheel you built, well done! I also noticed how much radial runout there was on the problem wheel your customer brought to you. I’m curious to see how well that wheel came together, or if you had to replace the rim or other components. Again, a well done video, I’m now a subscriber and fan, looking forward to seeing more content from you. Thanks again for sharing!😁❤
The freehub on the friends wheel also need to be overhauled. The rim looks good and if my friends desires to use it, I'll overhaul the freehub and use some new spokes to build it back up. My friend has another wheel set and I haven't found the time yet to work this wheel. Thanks for the compliment. I have used Brandt's book over the years as a wheel building guide but with bladed and carbon spokes, there are many new things to learn. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I was hoping to see you you address the problem with the wheel, make the proper adjustments, and then show the final results after rechecking the tension. And was it something broken or damaged, wrong spoke size, or something as simple as a loose spoke(s)?
A loose spoke is not something simple since it often related to rim damage or other causes. In this case, I think it was a prior crash with subtle damage to the rim (although I can't see it) and have yet not undertaken any kind of rebuild. The freehub also appears to be a problem and needs an overhaul. My tendency is to build a new wheel rather with a new rim and the overhauled freehub rather then undertake a rebuild with the old rim. Regards, Tony
Great information Tony. Two immediate questions I have, 1. Can the online Park Tool WTA app be used with a non-Park Tool tension meter? 2. How do you find out the proper spoke tension value for your wheel? Thanks, Brad
Good questions Brad. I wasn't thinking about it but now that you mention it, I would like to know as well. 🙂 Especially since the Park Tool tension meter is one of their most overpriced items, when compared to similar products from other reputable brands.
No, the Park Tool Wheel Tension App (WTA) is only designed to work with the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter. The WTA uses the TM-1's factory calibration to generate statistics, which can help you achieve consistent spoke tension. To convert the reading to actual tension in kilogram-force readings, you can either use the charts included with the meter (or download them from Park Tool) or use the Park Wheel Tension App. Each tension meter should come with it's own charts or on-line app. It is important to know the material and certain dimensions of the spoke in order to use the correct conversion chart or app. Good questions. Regards, Tony
@@Nain1993 See reply above. As to your other concern, the Park Tool tension meter is more expensive but the advantages, at least for me, is that it is calibrated to a high stand. Park will also recalibrate the tension meter for a minimal cost and shipping. This is important in case the meter is dropped but also, over time (every few years depending on use), the meter needs to be recalibrated since the spring in all such meters will loose some effect and needs to be replaced and recalibrated. By the way, I am an independent user and not paid by Park Tool or associated with the Company. Thanks for your comment. Tony
See reply above. As to your other concern, the Park Tool tension meter is more expensive but the advantages, at least for me, is that it is calibrated to a high stand. Park will also recalibrate the tension meter for a minimal cost and shipping. This is important in case the meter is dropped but also, over time (every few years depending on use), the meter needs to be recalibrated since the spring in all such meters will loose some effect and needs to be replaced and recalibrated.
Making the simple complicated. We didn't need computers and spoke tension meters when I learnt to build wheels in 1974 and I'm still not using a computer with or without apps. My tention meter is used when components have low tension limits. A badly tensioned wheel doesn't just collapse without a reason. If a round wheel has very uneven spoke tension or the odd loose spoke, then there's a problem with the rim. A good rim will have even tension when it's true. I'm a professional wheelbuilder with 50 years in the business and I'm amazed at the amount of nonsense on the internet about wheelbuilding
That's very interesting! Would be nice to upgrade that spoke tension meter thingy with BlueTooth which connects to your phone and would immediately show if the spoke was out of whack and by how much.
Yes. You strum it like a guitar. It does give you a rough idea of the tension and was the way we built wheels some years ago when tension meters were not available or too expensive. Some still swear by the method and it does a fair job. I guess I'm just a stickler for percesion and use a tension meter. Great question! Thanks and regards Tony
There isnt that much danger if you arent running meme carbon rims with meme hubs with less than 32 spokes. I have built all my wheels as lazily as possible, dont think a single one of my bikes has a 100% true wheel, the worst that ever happens is a rear wheel spoke breaking because i tensioned it too much.
That is true with 32 or 34 spokes. Although I have seen the wheel go out of true such that it rubs against the rim brake pads such that it's difficult to ride, even with 32 spokes. There is currently a trend to use far lower spoke numbers but with stronger spokes and we seem to see less spoke breakage these days. One problem I forgot to mention is too high a spoke tension. I've seen that cause cracks in rims where the spoke nipple comes through the rim. Regards and safe cycing, Tony
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glad to see youre doing good tony
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Very informative video, thank you Tony
You're Welcome. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
You rock Tony! Thanks for another helpful video 😊
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice video. Great information!
Thank you. Also visit our UA-cam home site at:
ua-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great info, thanks for sharing! I’ve been building wheels as a hobby for 20 years, and every one of them tensioned using the same Park Tools TM-1 tension gauge. I also keep a copy of “the Bicycle Wheel”, 3rd edition, by Jobst Brandt on my bench, and I refer to it often when explaining wheel building to friends and customers. I am very impressed by how well balanced the tension readings were on the wheel you built, well done! I also noticed how much radial runout there was on the problem wheel your customer brought to you. I’m curious to see how well that wheel came together, or if you had to replace the rim or other components. Again, a well done video, I’m now a subscriber and fan, looking forward to seeing more content from you. Thanks again for sharing!😁❤
The freehub on the friends wheel also need to be overhauled. The rim looks good and if my friends desires to use it, I'll overhaul the freehub and use some new spokes to build it back up. My friend has another wheel set and I haven't found the time yet to work this wheel.
Thanks for the compliment. I have used Brandt's book over the years as a wheel building guide but with bladed and carbon spokes, there are many new things to learn.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I was hoping to see you you address the problem with the wheel, make the proper adjustments, and then show the final results after rechecking the tension. And was it something broken or damaged, wrong spoke size, or something as simple as a loose spoke(s)?
A loose spoke is not something simple since it often related to rim damage or other causes. In this case, I think it was a prior crash with subtle damage to the rim (although I can't see it) and have yet not undertaken any kind of rebuild. The freehub also appears to be a problem and needs an overhaul. My tendency is to build a new wheel rather with a new rim and the overhauled freehub rather then undertake a rebuild with the old rim.
Regards, Tony
Great information Tony. Two immediate questions I have,
1. Can the online Park Tool WTA app be used with a non-Park Tool tension meter?
2. How do you find out the proper spoke tension value for your wheel?
Thanks, Brad
Good questions Brad. I wasn't thinking about it but now that you mention it, I would like to know as well. 🙂
Especially since the Park Tool tension meter is one of their most overpriced items, when compared to similar products from other reputable brands.
No, the Park Tool Wheel Tension App (WTA) is only designed to work with the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter. The WTA uses the TM-1's factory calibration to generate statistics, which can help you achieve consistent spoke tension. To convert the reading to actual tension in kilogram-force readings, you can either use the charts included with the meter (or download them from Park Tool) or use the Park Wheel Tension App.
Each tension meter should come with it's own charts or on-line app.
It is important to know the material and certain dimensions of the spoke in order to use the correct conversion chart or app.
Good questions. Regards, Tony
@@Nain1993 See reply above. As to your other concern, the Park Tool tension meter is more expensive but the advantages, at least for me, is that it is calibrated to a high stand. Park will also recalibrate the tension meter for a minimal cost and shipping. This is important in case the meter is dropped but also, over time (every few years depending on use), the meter needs to be recalibrated since the spring in all such meters will loose some effect and needs to be replaced and recalibrated.
By the way, I am an independent user and not paid by Park Tool or associated with the Company.
Thanks for your comment. Tony
See reply above. As to your other concern, the Park Tool tension meter is more expensive but the advantages, at least for me, is that it is calibrated to a high stand. Park will also recalibrate the tension meter for a minimal cost and shipping. This is important in case the meter is dropped but also, over time (every few years depending on use), the meter needs to be recalibrated since the spring in all such meters will loose some effect and needs to be replaced and recalibrated.
Making the simple complicated. We didn't need computers and spoke tension meters when I learnt to build wheels in 1974 and I'm still not using a computer with or without apps.
My tention meter is used when components have low tension limits.
A badly tensioned wheel doesn't just collapse without a reason.
If a round wheel has very uneven spoke tension or the odd loose spoke, then there's a problem with the rim. A good rim will have even tension when it's true.
I'm a professional wheelbuilder with 50 years in the business and I'm amazed at the amount of nonsense on the internet about wheelbuilding
That's very interesting! Would be nice to upgrade that spoke tension meter thingy with BlueTooth which connects to your phone and would immediately show if the spoke was out of whack and by how much.
That would. If you come across such a meter, let me know. Regards, Tony
Does anyone ever listen to the sound of the spoke when tapped?
Yes. You strum it like a guitar. It does give you a rough idea of the tension and was the way we built wheels some years ago when tension meters were not available or too expensive. Some still swear by the method and it does a fair job. I guess I'm just a stickler for percesion and use a tension meter. Great question! Thanks and regards Tony
There isnt that much danger if you arent running meme carbon rims with meme hubs with less than 32 spokes. I have built all my wheels as lazily as possible, dont think a single one of my bikes has a 100% true wheel, the worst that ever happens is a rear wheel spoke breaking because i tensioned it too much.
That is true with 32 or 34 spokes. Although I have seen the wheel go out of true such that it rubs against the rim brake pads such that it's difficult to ride, even with 32 spokes. There is currently a trend to use far lower spoke numbers but with stronger spokes and we seem to see less spoke breakage these days. One problem I forgot to mention is too high a spoke tension. I've seen that cause cracks in rims where the spoke nipple comes through the rim.
Regards and safe cycing, Tony