When I was 14 (1970's) and living in NSW on the Central Coast, me and my mate cut the forks off one bike and hammered em on to another bike's forks as extensions, no welding involved. So cool to ride but sketchy as. The time of choppers. Dad made me take em off. Long live bikes born in a shed! Another great video Tim, cheers from me.
Haha, thats awesome, and yes super sketchy. I love it. sounds like something I would have tried growing up. I remember having some random bike that I called the Harley Timson, It was a laid back thing, can't remember the length of the forks but I remember thinking it was like a Harley. I probably found it in street clean up as I was always looking for bikes. It had a 3 speed hub with a big lever on the top tube. It was the best.
Omafiets! Love that place. Such a good shop. Didn't realise you lived so inner city Tim. Makes it even more impressive how many great trips you go on. I like the two tone blue mate, gives it character!
Yeah mate. I’m about 9km from the city. So pretty close. I have a love hate relationship with Sydney. It’s a beautiful city but I also love to get out as often as I can. I don’t have to drive far for work so I waste all my fuel on weekends away 😂 Omafiets is awesome. Every time I walk in there I have to go tunnel vision to what I’m after and get out before I’m tempted to buy something 😂 I’ve just put on my fork racks and they sit nearly perfectly in line with the two tone. It’s hard to even see really. Cheers 🍻
@@sirbarryvee-eight6485 haha, My 40th birthday is this year. Maybe you should send this to my wife as a hint 😂 On a serious note. I think I’d like a new bike but I honestly don’t know what style I want. I currently have a dual suspension XC bike that bearly gets ridden. Part of me what’s to get rid of all my bikes and get one for everything I do. A hard tail would be good but I’m short and the frame size doesn’t provide much real estate for a frame bag on the small frames. This makes me want something like the Ghost Grappler which isn’t designed for suspension. But what if I occasionally want suspension. It’s all too hard 😂
It's always great to have a go and I think building a bike is a grand idea. I do have an early 2000's Voodoo with disc brakes and on the rear there's a fillet or support from the seat stay down to the chain stay where the brake mounts. Similar to 90's MTBs the seat stays are on the thin side and there's a fair amount of pressure there from disc brakes. Great build though 👍
I know the exact support you’re talking about. Pretty much all conversions I’ve seen online have added it. Plus a lot of new bikes also have it in place. I did think of added one but decided I’d like to see if it’s even required. Nothing like a good test to find out. I’m not convinced I do though. On my old Raleigh I’ve been riding, I dodged up a bracket to hold a rear calliper using one of the rack mounts and a hose clamp. It’s been working perfect for close to 2 years now. The frame hasn’t bent, the dodgy bracket hasn’t even moved. If you want to see what I’m talking about go to the very end of my last Barrington tops video. I show it there. 42nd minute. Time will tell if my frame starts to bend. I’m only a light weight so that helps, I do load the bike up a bit though. ua-cam.com/video/nvvpi0VSPSM/v-deo.htmlsi=6J-qkQSXTbfHhHoR
Well done Tim! I did the same thing to an old Surly fork and... the heat pulled the disc tab across to one side and the alignment went to crap. Oh well... lesson learned. I have it on the bench waiting to cut it, realign it and re-weld it. And LOL at taking a bag of rattle cans down the park to paint the bike - where I grew up the cops would have arrested you for graffiti. 🤣
I was a little worried about melting a hole through the frame so I think my amps were a bit low. Probably why my welds weren’t as nice as I’d hoped. It may have helped though as I had no issues with alignment. Saying that the jig did hold it in place pretty well. I’ve watched a few UA-cam videos of people welding bikes and a lot use the pulsing function. I guess this is to keep heat down. I’m very much a rookie at welding but there is only one way to get better. As for Graffiti, that bench seat was covered in it and there’s me with spray paint in my hand 😂 Nothing suss there.
Great work Mate. I still have my Mongoose Comp SX I bought in 1995 and still ride it a couple of times a year for giggles. It is actually a pretty good bike. Looking forward to your next bikepacking video.
Cheers mate. Is that the IBOC Comp SX? I’ve seen an IBOC similar to mine but it has the double butted lightweight TANGE tubing and 1 1/8 headset. I’m so tempted to buy it 😂 I’m packed ready for a trip this weekend. Hopefully my ideas plan out ok and the weather is kind. 🤞
@advanturest no Mate not the IBOC, it's the Y shape light blue frame one. Bit of a radical frame but a comfy ride. Hope the weather holds out for your trip Mate, safe travels.
Good job mate. I’ve been thinking of doing it on my old Rockhopper for years yet I’m afraid the original fork legs are designed for rim brakes and the left one may bend under braking. Legs for disc brakes are thicker near the dropouts whole legs for rim brakes are thicker near the canti studs. For this reason Thorn didn’t make touring disc bikes for years, just started relatively recently.
I now know what the next video is 😂 When I was editing this I was thinking the same, “I bet people will want to know how I made the jig / fixture”. Well I didn’t film that part because I made it after hours at work. I made the dummy axle in the lathe and then used the Magura ISO drawings to mark out a piece of steel that pivots on the dummy axle. A step in the axle and some specific size spaces have me the centre line.
Could you go more in Detail about the fixture you made to put the disc mounts in the right place? Really interested cause I want to try it as well but there's slim to none detail online to where they should be 😞 So you have any links/measurements for the placement? Love the work!
Hey mate, I’ve had a few questions about this so I’m planning to make a quick video about it. Works a bit crazy at the moment so it may be a few weeks. Here is a link to the measurements. This is how I worked out how to make my jig. I’ll explain more when I do film something but this should help for now. drive.google.com/file/d/103VPCjcqZun2pmUOlFm_5O-Qmd4zBDj2/view?usp=drive_link
Hey mate, There is a link in this video below where I got the measurements. although I just tried clicking it and the link no longer works. The video is worth a watch anyway as he seems to know what he is doing. I'll put the file on my own google drive and I'll put the link at the bottom of this message. The measurements give you the hole positions relative to the axle, but it's not super clear on the (what I'm going to call) the depth measurement. I just worked this out by putting a wheel, caliper, and adaptor on and took some measurements. It looks like the rear tab sits flush with the dropout but the front is about 4mm offset. On the front the tab sits a little wider than the dropout. I used a lathe to make the dummy axle and put a step in it which set that depth. In this video his jig slid hard against the dropout which gave that position. I think I'll make a new jig without using a lathe and make a video on it. I think it could be handy for others. Below is the Cobra Framebuilding video and the ISO standard PDF ua-cam.com/video/gr8ths8B0fk/v-deo.html drive.google.com/file/d/103VPCjcqZun2pmUOlFm_5O-Qmd4zBDj2/view?usp=drive_link
Hi! Great Video! I like the bike and your workshop. Try to lay your hands down on something solid when you are tig welding. It's too shaky. Just like writing with a pen, it's super difficult without laying the hand on the table. I often use clamps for it. You can place them anywhere you want to put your hands down. It's also easier to hold the perfect distance.
Cheers mate! You sound like you know what you're doing 😄 And yes, I agree with what you're saying. I have a tig at work and a much larger bench. While I rarely use it, I always seem to do better welds there. I think just being more comfortable makes a huge difference. After filming this video I've had to weld up 2 things because the fitters were away, and I also think I had the amps too low on the bike project. I was worried about blowing through the frame. After running some bigger amps on these work jobs, the filler rod seemed to suck in so much nicer and just left a much neater weld. I really do need to just keep practicing. Back to the bike job. Unfortunately, I didn't have heaps of space where I was welding it. A bigger bench would have been awesome to give me more room to rest my arms on. I probably could have set something up but with all my filming, by the time it was ready for welding, I was getting a little impatient and just wanted to get it done. This was at my parents' house, and I live an hour away. Coming back another day just pushes everything out and I just wanted it finished. I need to move out of my apartment and into a house with a shed haha. Oh and in case you're wondering, filming this at work would have been so handy. More space, better lighting, close to home. I'm just not sure management would like me doing that haha Thanks, heaps, for your tips and thanks for watching. Very much appreciated. Cheers!
haha, they wouldn't be far off it. These are Shimano BR-M486 brakes. They came off a bike I bought in maybe 2010. The bike was a Giant Filter 2. They work fine so I'll keep using them until they die.
Haha cheers mate. I'm a big fan of eye and ear protection, but must admit, my wife made me wear the mask when painting. She's a nurse and had some from work. No idea if it was the right type of mask but probably better than nothing. Spray booth was 👌
No I haven’t although I can probably give you some info here. I first welded tabs on a bike about 4 years ago and it was rough and position was all wrong. After watching a heap of videos I came across the Cobra Framebuilding channel. This video I’ve linked below is where I realised what I needed to do. He has the link to a PDF document with iso dimensions on it. I used this in my video. This gave me the dimensions I needed to make my jig. The central position was a little harder, I had to measure that. It’s a bit hard to put in words though. Have a watch of this video below and he may be able to explain things a little better. ua-cam.com/video/gr8ths8B0fk/v-deo.htmlsi=c8skE2fOZqhZOfLy
@@BikesnLikes haha, when I first welded the tabs on, I put the rear (left hand) lever on the bars with the caliper on the forks. On the right hand I had the cantilever front brakes. Double front's, It was a death trap front flipping machine 🤣 It would be sick to somehow double up each lever to pull both brakes on. The ultimate stopping beast. I'm going to try 🤣
@@advanturest There are levers that pull 2 cables, made for people with a weakness in one hand due to injury, stroke etc. Grab two of those, some cable discs, keep the cantis - hit all 4 brakes hard and it will be like hitting a wall! You know you want to try it... 😂
I've had no problems on multiple bikes. One of my bikes I've even got the rotor clamped on with a hose clamp and its been fine. All these bikes have been used mainly for bikepacking so the bikes are pretty heavy generally.
@@advanturest yea i posted the same comment on multiple video for finding more infos i can.... i spent a lot of money to make a fun build and it's sad to see people react in hard way... for example one dude said "in italy you don't pay healt care, try with your own bones and keep us updated" is kinda rude!! in my mind the use of this bike is nothing extreme but i just want to be sure that is nothing dangerous if i chose a long descend or a long route.... ps the brake mount itself has been braze-soldered at the best local metal-worker, i'm not hazardous to try making things i never done. :)
Sorry to disturb here... maybe I am not, but if so, am I the only one who sees an issue with this build? I mean, sure, you can (if you can weld) weld the weirdest stuff to a frame, but did ever come to Your mind, that safety relevant parts, like e.g. frame and brakes, to name a few, are designed in correlation to each other? What do you think the momentum goes to, while braking? That fork leg looks like a daddy longleg, the rear triangle has the silouette of a ballet dancer. You did not even consider welding a tube between seat- and chainstay. Maybe that old iron horse can take it, I don't know, but if not, good luck! The only good thing is, steel does not collaps suddenly....
2 points to make here: 1) I’m not an engineer, but everything g I have read and seen has told me that yes, adding that extra piece of metal in the stays will help make them stronger, but it’s not necessary because most stays are strong enough without them. It’s fairly order dependent too. Like, I would add the extra piece because I’m a big dude and want all the support of the frame I can get. But this guy seems a bit smaller and these bikes were way over built back in the 80s through the early 2000s. 2) Does it matter? He did it to practice welding and to have fun filming something. You could die driving your car or walking home or doing whatever. Some things in life are worth doing just to put a smile on your face or to keep you curious. It’s not like he’s building these for customers or anything like that.
Hello! Of all the stupidest things you can do, it's good to turn perfect V-(rims) brakes especially with BBB Tristop pads (cheap, reliable in all conditions) for disc brakes which are by definition anti-mechanical and which block the wheels, create falls! I go downhill with my travel and cargo bike. Given my load, I can count on progressive and extremely reliable braking with rim brakes. In addition, I can carry out maintenance quickly and anywhere at a reasonable price. The disc brakes lobby has created crappy rims that crack. Modern bicycles are consumer products that require permanent maintenance. I hope you will not have any accident due to sudden braking and wish you lots of fun with the whistles and costs of structurally obsolescent equipment.
It seems you're a big fan of rim brakes! The Cantilever brakes on this Mongoose worked flawlessly. The pads also last forever which I love. As mentioned in the video. I've braised on bottle bosses on the forks and underneath the bottom tube for bikepacking equipment to attach to. The bike needed some paint and I wanted to practice welding. I needed a project to make that happen. Before painting I thought why not. I genuinely loved the feel of the rim brakes on this bike too. It was a tough decision to go ahead with this project but what put me over the line was the fact the bike cost me $25. If I decide I don't like it, I've seen plenty others on Marketplace. I can also put the rim brakes back on. Saying all this, Disc brakes have some major advantages and I have no concerns giving them a try. Also, the rims I've been using, they're nearly due to be replaced, not from cracking, from just been worn out from the brakes.
@@advanturest Thank you for your long response 😊 To all those interested, good pads for V-rims-brakes cannot (and should not) last long because in this case they will be very hard and abrasive hence the aluminum rims which are worn (other old steel rims were not at risk). Hence the importance of using, for example, BBB Tristop or Shimano pro and replacing them as soon as they are visibly damaged. And when it rains, I have to loosen the cable a little because the braking is a little more abrupt. Another advantage, sometimes the braking is still a little brutal and you just need to put a little organic oil (e.g. olive oil) with your finger on each side of the rim and this ensures smoother braking.
@@dpierre Very interesting. When I got this Mongoose I'd had a few old 90's bikes and all the brakes sucked. They were terrible. When I picked up the Mongoose the owner said it had been serviced. Not sure what that means exactly but the brakes worked really well and I just assumed the other bikes had old hard pads. hence the bad braking. I've been riding it for about 2 years now and the pads look due for replacement. I've been surprised at how long they have lasted. I've done quiet a few fully loaded trips too. I might have to purchase some of these pads you speak of and give them a try.
Absolutely in love with how well shot and edited this video is!! Just goes together to smoothly
Cheers mate.
When I was 14 (1970's) and living in NSW on the Central Coast, me and my mate cut the forks off one bike and hammered em on to another bike's forks as extensions, no welding involved. So cool to ride but sketchy as. The time of choppers. Dad made me take em off. Long live bikes born in a shed! Another great video Tim, cheers from me.
Haha, thats awesome, and yes super sketchy. I love it. sounds like something I would have tried growing up.
I remember having some random bike that I called the Harley Timson, It was a laid back thing, can't remember the length of the forks but I remember thinking it was like a Harley. I probably found it in street clean up as I was always looking for bikes. It had a 3 speed hub with a big lever on the top tube. It was the best.
Great job there on the fabrication part and welding.
Very cool build! I really enjoyed the editing and story telling as well. 👍
@@ThunderStruckMTB thanks mate.
I love the video has no music in it it feels so real
Omafiets! Love that place. Such a good shop. Didn't realise you lived so inner city Tim. Makes it even more impressive how many great trips you go on.
I like the two tone blue mate, gives it character!
Yeah mate. I’m about 9km from the city. So pretty close. I have a love hate relationship with Sydney. It’s a beautiful city but I also love to get out as often as I can. I don’t have to drive far for work so I waste all my fuel on weekends away 😂
Omafiets is awesome. Every time I walk in there I have to go tunnel vision to what I’m after and get out before I’m tempted to buy something 😂
I’ve just put on my fork racks and they sit nearly perfectly in line with the two tone. It’s hard to even see really.
Cheers 🍻
Sunset shot was awesome, especially with the shed in the foreground!
@@advanturest You know a Surly Ghost Grappler would really work for you...
...it's calling you... "Timmm... buuuuy meeeee..." 😁
@@sirbarryvee-eight6485 haha, My 40th birthday is this year. Maybe you should send this to my wife as a hint 😂
On a serious note. I think I’d like a new bike but I honestly don’t know what style I want. I currently have a dual suspension XC bike that bearly gets ridden. Part of me what’s to get rid of all my bikes and get one for everything I do. A hard tail would be good but I’m short and the frame size doesn’t provide much real estate for a frame bag on the small frames. This makes me want something like the Ghost Grappler which isn’t designed for suspension. But what if I occasionally want suspension. It’s all too hard 😂
It's always great to have a go and I think building a bike is a grand idea. I do have an early 2000's Voodoo with disc brakes and on the rear there's a fillet or support from the seat stay down to the chain stay where the brake mounts. Similar to 90's MTBs the seat stays are on the thin side and there's a fair amount of pressure there from disc brakes. Great build though 👍
I know the exact support you’re talking about. Pretty much all conversions I’ve seen online have added it. Plus a lot of new bikes also have it in place. I did think of added one but decided I’d like to see if it’s even required. Nothing like a good test to find out. I’m not convinced I do though. On my old Raleigh I’ve been riding, I dodged up a bracket to hold a rear calliper using one of the rack mounts and a hose clamp. It’s been working perfect for close to 2 years now. The frame hasn’t bent, the dodgy bracket hasn’t even moved. If you want to see what I’m talking about go to the very end of my last Barrington tops video. I show it there. 42nd minute. Time will tell if my frame starts to bend. I’m only a light weight so that helps, I do load the bike up a bit though.
ua-cam.com/video/nvvpi0VSPSM/v-deo.htmlsi=6J-qkQSXTbfHhHoR
Well done Tim! I did the same thing to an old Surly fork and... the heat pulled the disc tab across to one side and the alignment went to crap. Oh well... lesson learned. I have it on the bench waiting to cut it, realign it and re-weld it.
And LOL at taking a bag of rattle cans down the park to paint the bike - where I grew up the cops would have arrested you for graffiti. 🤣
I was a little worried about melting a hole through the frame so I think my amps were a bit low. Probably why my welds weren’t as nice as I’d hoped. It may have helped though as I had no issues with alignment. Saying that the jig did hold it in place pretty well. I’ve watched a few UA-cam videos of people welding bikes and a lot use the pulsing function. I guess this is to keep heat down. I’m very much a rookie at welding but there is only one way to get better.
As for Graffiti, that bench seat was covered in it and there’s me with spray paint in my hand 😂
Nothing suss there.
So cool ! That jig is very clever ! 🎉
Great work Mate. I still have my Mongoose Comp SX I bought in 1995 and still ride it a couple of times a year for giggles. It is actually a pretty good bike. Looking forward to your next bikepacking video.
Cheers mate. Is that the IBOC Comp SX? I’ve seen an IBOC similar to mine but it has the double butted lightweight TANGE tubing and 1 1/8 headset. I’m so tempted to buy it 😂
I’m packed ready for a trip this weekend. Hopefully my ideas plan out ok and the weather is kind. 🤞
@advanturest no Mate not the IBOC, it's the Y shape light blue frame one. Bit of a radical frame but a comfy ride. Hope the weather holds out for your trip Mate, safe travels.
Love the park painting Tim!!
After a few private comments I’m a little concerned I shouldn’t have done that 😂
Beats getting overspray on my neighbours cars though.
@@advanturest it's basically tinnies in the park. Age old tradition. 😆
Good job mate. I’ve been thinking of doing it on my old Rockhopper for years yet I’m afraid the original fork legs are designed for rim brakes and the left one may bend under braking. Legs for disc brakes are thicker near the dropouts whole legs for rim brakes are thicker near the canti studs. For this reason Thorn didn’t make touring disc bikes for years, just started relatively recently.
Amazing job mate! Love the content
Looks like you have a prefect property and shop for working. You could build Mad Max police cruisers at that place.
nice work mate!
Love this vid mate🏆 my first bmx was a mongoose, 👍
I had a Mongoose Expert growing up. Loved that BMX
I'm actually intrigued as to how you made the jigs...
I now know what the next video is 😂
When I was editing this I was thinking the same, “I bet people will want to know how I made the jig / fixture”. Well I didn’t film that part because I made it after hours at work. I made the dummy axle in the lathe and then used the Magura ISO drawings to mark out a piece of steel that pivots on the dummy axle. A step in the axle and some specific size spaces have me the centre line.
Looks unusual with 90s fork and disc brake on the front
Could you go more in Detail about the fixture you made to put the disc mounts in the right place? Really interested cause I want to try it as well but there's slim to none detail online to where they should be 😞
So you have any links/measurements for the placement?
Love the work!
Hey mate, I’ve had a few questions about this so I’m planning to make a quick video about it. Works a bit crazy at the moment so it may be a few weeks. Here is a link to the measurements. This is how I worked out how to make my jig. I’ll explain more when I do film something but this should help for now.
drive.google.com/file/d/103VPCjcqZun2pmUOlFm_5O-Qmd4zBDj2/view?usp=drive_link
Great job! I'd love to know measurements and how you made the jig. Been wanting to do this on a bike I have.
Hey mate, There is a link in this video below where I got the measurements. although I just tried clicking it and the link no longer works. The video is worth a watch anyway as he seems to know what he is doing. I'll put the file on my own google drive and I'll put the link at the bottom of this message. The measurements give you the hole positions relative to the axle, but it's not super clear on the (what I'm going to call) the depth measurement. I just worked this out by putting a wheel, caliper, and adaptor on and took some measurements. It looks like the rear tab sits flush with the dropout but the front is about 4mm offset. On the front the tab sits a little wider than the dropout.
I used a lathe to make the dummy axle and put a step in it which set that depth. In this video his jig slid hard against the dropout which gave that position. I think I'll make a new jig without using a lathe and make a video on it. I think it could be handy for others.
Below is the Cobra Framebuilding video and the ISO standard PDF
ua-cam.com/video/gr8ths8B0fk/v-deo.html
drive.google.com/file/d/103VPCjcqZun2pmUOlFm_5O-Qmd4zBDj2/view?usp=drive_link
Hi! Great Video! I like the bike and your workshop. Try to lay your hands down on something solid when you are tig welding. It's too shaky. Just like writing with a pen, it's super difficult without laying the hand on the table. I often use clamps for it. You can place them anywhere you want to put your hands down. It's also easier to hold the perfect distance.
Cheers mate! You sound like you know what you're doing 😄 And yes, I agree with what you're saying. I have a tig at work and a much larger bench. While I rarely use it, I always seem to do better welds there. I think just being more comfortable makes a huge difference. After filming this video I've had to weld up 2 things because the fitters were away, and I also think I had the amps too low on the bike project. I was worried about blowing through the frame. After running some bigger amps on these work jobs, the filler rod seemed to suck in so much nicer and just left a much neater weld. I really do need to just keep practicing.
Back to the bike job. Unfortunately, I didn't have heaps of space where I was welding it. A bigger bench would have been awesome to give me more room to rest my arms on. I probably could have set something up but with all my filming, by the time it was ready for welding, I was getting a little impatient and just wanted to get it done. This was at my parents' house, and I live an hour away. Coming back another day just pushes everything out and I just wanted it finished. I need to move out of my apartment and into a house with a shed haha.
Oh and in case you're wondering, filming this at work would have been so handy. More space, better lighting, close to home. I'm just not sure management would like me doing that haha
Thanks, heaps, for your tips and thanks for watching. Very much appreciated.
Cheers!
Rount Amack is my new band name.
Haha, glad I could help 😂
Those disc brakes look like 1990s prototypes. Hope you spring for some new ones. What brand are the ones in video?
haha, they wouldn't be far off it. These are Shimano BR-M486 brakes. They came off a bike I bought in maybe 2010. The bike was a Giant Filter 2. They work fine so I'll keep using them until they die.
Love your content, full marks for PPE plus your spray booth is next level
Haha cheers mate. I'm a big fan of eye and ear protection, but must admit, my wife made me wear the mask when painting. She's a nurse and had some from work. No idea if it was the right type of mask but probably better than nothing. Spray booth was 👌
Have you done a video on how you found info on the fit up jig that you created
No I haven’t although I can probably give you some info here. I first welded tabs on a bike about 4 years ago and it was rough and position was all wrong. After watching a heap of videos I came across the Cobra Framebuilding channel. This video I’ve linked below is where I realised what I needed to do. He has the link to a PDF document with iso dimensions on it. I used this in my video. This gave me the dimensions I needed to make my jig. The central position was a little harder, I had to measure that. It’s a bit hard to put in words though. Have a watch of this video below and he may be able to explain things a little better.
ua-cam.com/video/gr8ths8B0fk/v-deo.htmlsi=c8skE2fOZqhZOfLy
Double brakes!? Now you can ride down 99% grades with 100kg of camera gear!
Next up, get all 4 brakes to run off one lever.
@@BikesnLikes haha, when I first welded the tabs on, I put the rear (left hand) lever on the bars with the caliper on the forks. On the right hand I had the cantilever front brakes. Double front's, It was a death trap front flipping machine 🤣
It would be sick to somehow double up each lever to pull both brakes on. The ultimate stopping beast.
I'm going to try 🤣
@@advanturest There are levers that pull 2 cables, made for people with a weakness in one hand due to injury, stroke etc. Grab two of those, some cable discs, keep the cantis - hit all 4 brakes hard and it will be like hitting a wall!
You know you want to try it... 😂
Awesome job you did tour mtb!, this is what i've been waiting for ..shoutout from the Philippines! 🤟
Is it possible to use the rear brake without adding the reinforcement tube?
I've had no problems on multiple bikes. One of my bikes I've even got the rotor clamped on with a hose clamp and its been fine. All these bikes have been used mainly for bikepacking so the bikes are pretty heavy generally.
@advanturest amazing thanks
do you had any problem after you converted to disc? i've converted my crossframe but on forums people seems quite mad....
@@ControlAltGar I just replied to your other comment on an earlier video. Same answer. I’ve had no problems. It’s good fun changing things up.
@@advanturest yea i posted the same comment on multiple video for finding more infos i can.... i spent a lot of money to make a fun build and it's sad to see people react in hard way... for example one dude said "in italy you don't pay healt care, try with your own bones and keep us updated" is kinda rude!! in my mind the use of this bike is nothing extreme but i just want to be sure that is nothing dangerous if i chose a long descend or a long route.... ps the brake mount itself has been braze-soldered at the best local metal-worker, i'm not hazardous to try making things i never done. :)
Where did you get the tabs?
@@hawg_pound Hillbrick Bicycles. Just ordered online. Not sure where you’re based but this a store in the Sydney region Australia.
Sorry to disturb here... maybe I am not, but if so, am I the only one who sees an issue with this build? I mean, sure, you can (if you can weld) weld the weirdest stuff to a frame, but did ever come to Your mind, that safety relevant parts, like e.g. frame and brakes, to name a few, are designed in correlation to each other? What do you think the momentum goes to, while braking? That fork leg looks like a daddy longleg, the rear triangle has the silouette of a ballet dancer. You did not even consider welding a tube between seat- and chainstay. Maybe that old iron horse can take it, I don't know, but if not, good luck! The only good thing is, steel does not collaps suddenly....
2 points to make here:
1) I’m not an engineer, but everything g I have read and seen has told me that yes, adding that extra piece of metal in the stays will help make them stronger, but it’s not necessary because most stays are strong enough without them. It’s fairly order dependent too. Like, I would add the extra piece because I’m a big dude and want all the support of the frame I can get. But this guy seems a bit smaller and these bikes were way over built back in the 80s through the early 2000s.
2) Does it matter? He did it to practice welding and to have fun filming something. You could die driving your car or walking home or doing whatever. Some things in life are worth doing just to put a smile on your face or to keep you curious. It’s not like he’s building these for customers or anything like that.
i hate birds
Why? 😠
Hello! Of all the stupidest things you can do, it's good to turn perfect V-(rims) brakes especially with BBB Tristop pads (cheap, reliable in all conditions) for disc brakes which are by definition anti-mechanical and which block the wheels, create falls! I go downhill with my travel and cargo bike. Given my load, I can count on progressive and extremely reliable braking with rim brakes. In addition, I can carry out maintenance quickly and anywhere at a reasonable price. The disc brakes lobby has created crappy rims that crack. Modern bicycles are consumer products that require permanent maintenance. I hope you will not have any accident due to sudden braking and wish you lots of fun with the whistles and costs of structurally obsolescent equipment.
Was wondering how long it would take someone to come have a whinge. Very quick!
It seems you're a big fan of rim brakes! The Cantilever brakes on this Mongoose worked flawlessly. The pads also last forever which I love. As mentioned in the video. I've braised on bottle bosses on the forks and underneath the bottom tube for bikepacking equipment to attach to. The bike needed some paint and I wanted to practice welding. I needed a project to make that happen. Before painting I thought why not.
I genuinely loved the feel of the rim brakes on this bike too. It was a tough decision to go ahead with this project but what put me over the line was the fact the bike cost me $25. If I decide I don't like it, I've seen plenty others on Marketplace. I can also put the rim brakes back on. Saying all this, Disc brakes have some major advantages and I have no concerns giving them a try. Also, the rims I've been using, they're nearly due to be replaced, not from cracking, from just been worn out from the brakes.
@@advanturest Thank you for your long response 😊 To all those interested, good pads for V-rims-brakes cannot (and should not) last long because in this case they will be very hard and abrasive hence the aluminum rims which are worn (other old steel rims were not at risk). Hence the importance of using, for example, BBB Tristop or Shimano pro and replacing them as soon as they are visibly damaged. And when it rains, I have to loosen the cable a little because the braking is a little more abrupt. Another advantage, sometimes the braking is still a little brutal and you just need to put a little organic oil (e.g. olive oil) with your finger on each side of the rim and this ensures smoother braking.
@@dpierre Very interesting. When I got this Mongoose I'd had a few old 90's bikes and all the brakes sucked. They were terrible. When I picked up the Mongoose the owner said it had been serviced. Not sure what that means exactly but the brakes worked really well and I just assumed the other bikes had old hard pads. hence the bad braking. I've been riding it for about 2 years now and the pads look due for replacement. I've been surprised at how long they have lasted. I've done quiet a few fully loaded trips too.
I might have to purchase some of these pads you speak of and give them a try.
@dpierre chill out pdiddy!!
nice project