Bambu X1 Carbon 3D Printer Review
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- Опубліковано 31 сер 2023
- "In world where Ben made a feature-length review of the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Printer"... wait! That's THIS world! Join me as we take a deep dive into of the coolest "new kid on the block" printers and build several fun things with it.
bambulab.com/en-us - Наука та технологія
OK I will look into the filament selection on the touch screen!
Ha, I was just watching and thinking "I wonder if he knows that if you set the filament info on the printer when you load it, most of those issues go away". Of course the YT comment section has already taken care of that...
@@EricMBlogNot this time, but sometimes I'll leave mistake in on purpose because it drives engagement.
@@BenHeckHacks That's what your dad said
@@LeesChannelHahaha
i have a favor to ask there is another youtuber who what to one day build a pinball of his own when you said your doing yours i had to say something one he doing it from scratch and two he will need help his name is www.youtube.com/@JoeHillsTSD ..he is a minecraft you tuber but want to do more ... most of all he like to make dumb joke like you do cant say if they are the same dont know you both that much ...help him if you can later when he is doing his i dont think he knows you
you know those beds flex so the parts pop right off. Seemed like you kept trying to yank them off. Also the toolhead has magnets not for easy access, if the head crashes into something and pops it off, it'll stop the print. It's designed to be a collision detection. I've forgotten to pull the previous print off, and it's knocked into it making the head pop off and stop the print so it wouldn't damage itself.
I don't think i've ever needed to flex my bambu pei bed. the prints self-release the moment they cool to room temp, its so much better than fighting with a damn scraper on my wanhao i3v2 :D
Yanking is valid. If your dad did that instead we would not have to put up with your annoying comments.
In the year 2023, Ben Heck built a wicked movie, since then, we’ve appreciated it immensely.
This printer was a game changer for me. I had many before it, but when I actually received it and started using it, it blew me away.
Cardboard spool adapters are readily available on most of the 3D print sites to fix the cardboard spool issue. Also print time is greatly reduced by saving the profile (calibrate) the spool then turn off 'flow dynamics shaping' option when printing, it will use the stored 'calibrated' one you have in the AMS.
Does that sync for non chipped spools?
@@BenHeckHacksNot automatically, it is up to you to tell it when you change filament and either re-run calibration or reference a stored profile for the filament.
I liked this video very much. You can put loads of practical experience from over a decade into the reviews. Many other UA-camrs are very dry and elaborate on what the package says. And thanks for putting a few projects into the video. As weird as it may sound, watching you build things inspires my to get back to my own projects.
This man designed/made his own PCB, made an enclosure for it and made a game for it? Wow
Ben, you can get Bambu Lab AMS Cardboard Spool adapter from Printables (and other places) that just snap around the edge of the cardboard spool, give it a good grip, and don't ding up the soft edge of the cardboard. They are of course reusable, so after I printed a couple/few sets I had all I needed.
I can’t believe I watched the whole video. I don’t even have the means for a 3D printer.
you're possibly the only guy I'd trust for a 3d printer "review".
Your first layer issues. You can change layer height for first layer in Bambu Studio. Under quality setting, you can set first layer height and first layer line width. If your trying to get more or less squish into the bed, these settings will accomplish this. You can also lower the Elephants Foot compensation setting, also under the “quality” settings.
I finally got thru this. The effects quality at the end. Amazing! 😊
Love the intro! I'm ready to pop up some popcorn and enjoy the show!
What a fantastic video! Quentin Paw-rantino would be extremely proud of you XD
Finally got a bambu carbon after 13 years hassle full 3d printing beginning with having to build your own hot end with nichrome wire and PTE tubing, constantly rebuilding extruders, mucking with glue stick and hair spray and ABS on your 4” square self leveled non heated build platform. I have to say the bambu has made things hassle “less”.
Not really a product for me- BUT this is also the first time since I bought the ender 3 that I see some notable improvements including the print quality.
@@olik136 I’m very happy with it. This is my 4th printer in 13 years starting with the original makerbot cupcake cnc. It still requires maintenance but it’s getting very close “appliance” level. I got tired of always having to tinker with the printer while in the middle of other projects. This one I can just turn it on and send my jobs to it over Wi-Fi and it just works. I’ve had to swap nozzles and clean them from clogging a couple times because of using carbon fiber filament but they’ve made swapping hot ends and nozzles a 5 minute process vs and hour or two with other printers.
Bro is having WAY too much fun with this.
Great video Ben.
So you will see the spools OPEN and you can easily load them! I figured it out weeks later. They sell no spool units.
You can change the speed at any point in the print
Thank you. Most useful review on this.
Good overview and you give an interesting look at the BL X1C. I just got this model a few weeks back and have done lots of printing since then. My particular AMS seems to have issues with slot #3 and the filaments get stuck when it retracts after a print. That has happened 3 times already, but luckily the other 3 slots are fine. When you want to change a filament color in the prepare mode, select the object and then just hit the number of the filament slot in the AMS (1-16 since you can daisy chain multiple AMS units together with an additional hub) and the slicer will change the color to the spools color if you’ve changed that in the software. Also, for the Ying-Yang-Cat model you could separate the two colors and just print “By Object” instead of “By Layer” and the print time will be a lot less. It’s good to see you back on UA-cam. I always enjoyed watching your techno-videos.
Ahhh love those wheels. It's pretty much exactly what I've thought few times moving yard, but haven't got into even measuring if I could print ones on my printer.
Good review btw 👍
Watching this during hurricane, rain splash outside sounds great.
Long form content isn't dead~!
All jokes aside, I appreciated how this continued to progress. I've had the X1C since February and have been curious how you'd see it stacking up to your farm of existing printers. I bought it without the AMS but have been surprised at it's quality and reliability since day 1. The more I watch videos where the ams is used outside of simple color switching, the more I'm seeing it's added value. I don't' care much about multi color but you made some solid use cases for multi material otherwise.
Cheers.
I'm happy they sponsored you since you're doing cool things with the printer
Regarding 1st layer issues, some might have been due to left over partially used glue. IIRC, Bambu suggests cleaning the bed each time and regluing. That's not practical for all prints but in some cases you can move your print to unused areas of the bed until the whole surface area is printed on - then reglue. Great review!
Alright. That intro was gold. I literally (actual literal) laughed out loud.
Love the callout to Steve and his MREs!
You can print some rings that go on the outside of cardboard spools that makes them run well on the ams rollers
Ha ha. I’m an airline pilot, love the O’hare comment, so true. Thanks for the review.
The plant thing is a BEAUTY! 👍😃
Should make Bud a thunder cats multi badge.
Great video. Convinced me I want a Bambu Printer now.
There's a setting in the printer that allows you to color the model yourself. You do not need to use two separate models.
I really enjoyed this. Than k you.
"Catskillvania" looks fun!
This is very impressive, you made your own game AND handheld console, you're like the one-man-nintendo.
I have a few of those plants. We usually chop it in half when it gets too long and shove the top half back into the dirt. Seems to grow fine.
The top half will regrow roots? (I know NOTHING about plants sorry)
@@BenHeckHacks I cannot speak for all top halfs, but I have, what looks to be the same plant, and we've topped it several times now. And the bottom. Seems to happily grow out more leaves
I have a P1P and the Bambu dual side textured plate is the one to use for PLA. Like others have said you go to device in the bambu software and you can setup the filaments and then you resync them to match the slicer setup. In the newer software it shows the K value for each filament so you don't need to do the flow scan each time if you already know what it is. I have a love hate relationship with the P1P, I love the print quality for the speed and it has taken over as my 1st choice printer, but the P1P has some very limited firmware so you can't just print again from the screen or the studio onlyy from the mobile app, You can't organize files into folders on the SD card it just shows them as one long list.Also the sprinter has speed settings one slower called silent and then two faster all the way up to ludicrous.
Lol, Bamboo Comedian. Love it I'll be back to ask questions as I'll be making my own on it. Thanks sub
Also if you set up the filament on the touchscreen screen when you load it. It will show up in the slicer when you sync it.
Dude your commentary is hilarious! 😂😂😂
they are arent they? hehehe thats what draws me back
@3:15, loved the Steve1989Mre joke!
Love mine, tinkering to get it working is at an all time low compared to my enders. Rarely have to change a setting or fix an issue. I spend more time printing now! I do miss tinkering with my enders from time to time though. I hope they make a resin printer at some point. Also use the ams as my lazy man filament storage unit.
With aftermarket PEI plate, I had issue as well with print not adhering to the bed.
What worked for me was to clean with Isopropyl alcohol. There must have been residue left from manufacturing.
Also you could try raising the bed temperature a bit.
I've seen others suggest this. I should try it thanks!
I quit watching when I realized that this printer is much better than my Ankermake M5.
This is the kind of performance I would expect from a printer, but not at that price. It seems the cheaper the printer, the deeper the rabbit hole of tinkering and fussing you fall into, I don't want to become a printer mechanic, I just wanna print things. Still waiting for an affordable printer that doesn't require monk-like devotion.
Jump scare made my cat fly off of my desk.
It's because she was the color of a cucumber :)
it made me fucking jump holy fuck
9:40 the spool has residual oils on it or the rubber on the drive is dusty. It is trying its absolute best to rotate the spool backwards but it can't (not enough traction).
Cardboard spools tend to flake a bit, that is the reason why they are not recommended. You can put drive tyres made from printed TPU on them to help with that, PLA is too slippery.
35:00 if you edit the AMS slots manually it knows the type of material and the color and presents it in this screen. You can edit it on your touchpanel or in the Device tab of the slicer.
for your, 'having to select the filament gripe', you added all the filaments to 1 profile. i made a profile per filament because thats what makes sense since you would prolly tweak settings per manufacturer etc. as is your running the same settigns for everything or have to tweak them every print.
you can change the print speed on the fly by selecting that 100% next to the lamp button on the print monitor screen
@BenHeckHacks For your cardboard spool reels, you can just 3D print a reusable ring to slide the cardboard into for that AMS system.
The bambu spool is reusable, it twists apart to add more filament refills in. You can also just print something to go on edge of the cardboard spool to make them roll properly
Oh good to know. So I but refills? Normally I'd be against that because of tangling but this printer does spool slack so less of an issue.
@@BenHeckHacks i mean they are pre spun into rolls like normal you just slide them on and undo the stuff securing them
Pretty awesome 3D printer I used the same brand name Filiment The stuff works awesome Especially fast shipping in Wisconsin 😮
The rfid spool is not needed for the printer to work.....yet.
Flashback to Dymo printer nonsense.
Good timing, I just got one last weekend from MicroCenter. I'm currently printing the "Bambu Lab P1 / X1 / X1C / X1CC Filament Spool Switcher & Winder if you use AMS" on printables by Miklos Kiszely to unroll my cardboard spools onto old saved plastic spools. Check out his UA-cam videos showing off his sweet project! I learned too late that there is a handy flow chart for types of filament and build plates. For most materials it pays to remove the top cover and leave the door open.
I just ripped the cardboard sides off of mine, and the bambu reusable spool fitted nice and snug within the remaining cardboard tube.
Your new refrigerator makes noises like the robots out of the Oblivion movie. By the way how many beers can it hold? 😊 Its always cool when we get a new Ben Heck movie. Also love the music that links the movie sections together. Very cool 👍
Can It produce structural Elements Like a balustrade table legs with the carbon fiber?
@Benheckhacks Which mid range (£800 avg), core xy, enclosed printer do u recommend?
Hi Ben, do you test for fiber marking machine?
The TV series "Life after People" actually goes through in full detail how long it would take for the planet (animals and plants) to take it all back after we are gone.
Very well done series I feel.
Could you make a 3d print rim set for the cardboard spool?
I have two of these things and exclusively use PEI plates with PLA just because Im lazy and cant be bothered with glue and somehow my first layers always come out amazing and I never have adhesion issues...but now that I said that outloud Im sure both with halt and catch fire. Yours seemed to have slight under extrusion issues too? Not setting the filament type could be the problem...
What PEI bed do you recommend? Got links? I like PEI as well. I also find the glue dumb when you're supposed to flip the surface.
@@BenHeckHacks it’s just the standard Bambu Dual-Sided Textured PEI Plate on sale for $28 on the Bambu labs store right now, I’d send you a direct link but I’ve had trouble recently with UA-cam holding/comments or deleting comments if I paste a link. I mostly use Bambu labs basic PLA too but also overture with cardboard spools and eSun PLA+ all with good results in AMS. Thanks for your review and content, been a long time fan and you always get me rolling!
will it be available in IMAX theatres worldwide?
Nice Jump scare at the end
Got this with 15 kg of filaments and Rhino3d for some design. Let´s start printing.
16:00 it will probably do the input shaping every time because with 4 full spools or only 1 half-used spool the values must be quite different.
wen can haz bud game?
I appreciated the Steve1989MRE reference :)
I don't know why but reading A Benjamin J Heckendorn Film took me back to Port Washington days.
13:22 what’s up with the first layer? It is not squished correctly.
16:55. You know what's even more recyclable than cardboard? Reusing the same spool over and over again. The spools that Bambu sent you are designed to come apart, so you can buy a filament reload from Bambu, and stick it onto your existing spool.
The arms of an angel cover killed me lmao
If you set up your generic filaments on the touch screen, I think that you'll have a much better time when it comes to the multiple filaments issue that you had. I've had no issues with it so far and I set up the filaments every time.
Watching a review of him doing like 90% of things wrong is rough, seeing as the printer is mainly controlled from the printer screen not the slicer lol
@@icey_projects yeah, if he had done any research on the printer before getting it Bambu Lab he would have had a much better time seeing as there are guides and videos for literally everything.
@@thepfeiffenator2990 Right like at the beginning he was like whats this arm...it tells you its a filament cutter lol, then he struggles so much with the different filaments I'm over here screaming like click the damn button on the printer and tell it the filament you loaded and simply hit sync after you are done in the slicer lol, then on the build plate code like just go in settings and turn off scan build plate it takes like 3 seconds lol
Wow Buds agent was really earning his fee this time. He got Bud in the credits above Ben.
@Ben Heck Hacks I love ya buddy but I hope after you learn how to properly use this printer you do another review, to load filament you need to use the printer itself and load it and then hit edit and select the type and color you loaded, after you do this you can hit sync on the slicer and it will fix all the issues you were having...it didnt work before because you loaded filament and didnt tell the printer what you loaded so how was it to know when you clicked sync what was going on? Then on the build plates if you use a plate without a qr code just go in settings and tell the printer not to look for the qr code so it skips that and ensure you set correct plate in slicer, also I doubt anyone uses bambus slicer I'm pretty sure everyone uses orca slicer instead it is much better. Basically everything to do with the printer is done using the screen on the printer itself and the slicer primarily slices, furthermore after you do a lidar just save that as a custom filament in the slicer so it doesnt recalibrate the filament everytime...hope this helps
P.S. that scraping on the back of the plate is done on purpose to ensure no filament on tip of nozzle before it taps the bed to set z offset and leveling, also you can change the speed of the printer on the printers screen aswell after you start a print, also the filament cutter is that little arm on the tool head you mentioned at the start of the video, it pains me greatly that you gave filament handling as a con simply because you did it wrong the entire time...I've had this printer since day 1 and have never had a filament issue given you simply set the filament and color on the printers screen first when you load it as you are supposed to and then re-sync in the software after that is complete.
I think Ben does have an important point tbh, The relatively unique way that bambu handles filament is not described at any point in the quick start guide. It would be worth maybe a 2 page display showing how to properly add both bambu and 3rd party filaments to the AMS. It's easy sure, and my goodness I absolutely love my AMS setup here, but whilst Ben got the wrong end of the stick regarding loading, there is nothing in the manual or guides to suggest he was taking the wrong route in the first place.
@@lmaoroflcopter while I agree completely the quick start guide could indeed cover this better the question still remains "would he have read it?" The quick start guide specifically says in all caps red letters to not remove the foam under the build plate until after initial calibration is complete yet he ignored/didn't read that, so who is to say he read any of it anyways? I guess the main issue is I see it unfair to give filament loading etc as a con when He was doing it wrong then blames the software etc, what would have been fair is to give the instructions themself a con as the loading and software work fine given you use it correctly. Furthermore it is a quick start guide which assumes you will not be using an AMS or any other filament other than the included rfid tagged spool, the point of a quick start is just that...a quick start, so if using the AMS why not look up the guide specifically for the AMS since what he had differed from the quick start, these are just my thoughts obviously if you purchase an AMS you would also assume there would be a quickstart ams version aswell.
@icey_projects The quick start guide includes sections on using the AMS. It does not assume you will not being using the AMS.
@@lmaoroflcopter Right I meant the quick start guide is a "quick start" so it shows the most simple method for a "quick start" which is the spool holder with a single roll using their rfid spools and built in presliced files...because that is a quick start lol if you want to slice your own files or do anything further it expects you to look up the normal documentation on how to slice files use ams load filament using ams etc...the quick start is not meant to cover everything hence the quick start aspect would be lost lol, I have watched probably 20+ reviews of this machine and noone else had this issue so I would assume it isn't so convoluted of a task that they seem feesable to change the literature on, especially when it is documented quite well in their wiki on the website which the quickstart guide urges you to read. Anywho it isn't anything to argue over, if 1000's of people that are less intelligent was able to figure it out just by simply reading the documentation on their wiki then I'm sure it should have been a non issue for someone as smart as Ben to figure out.
The biggest con with this printer is first layer adhesion. Yeah I missed the filament thing but that's my fault not the printers. Bad first layer? Printers fault.
For half a second I was thinking we were gonna get the old Portable Productions logo.
Maybe you realize this later in the video, and if so I will go back and edit this. But the engineering plate is on the reverse side of your included cool plate. That would have been what to use the PC for! EDIT: Yes, you realized this
Also, I believe the glue is important to use on those plates to keep from pulling up bits of the plate with the prints. A big reason why I avoid using that one and use the textured PEI plate that they sell. EDIT: You realized this too
Also, for certain filaments, PLA being one of them, it is recommended to leave the top glass off of the printer and open the door. Helps with cooling for filaments that don't need the high temp chamber.
And you can set the filament type and color with the touch screen on the unit or in your slicer by going to device and clicking the edit icon on the filament bay that you want to modify in the AMS
having gotten mine on Wednesday, I can honestly say i had the same experience setting it up, except im selfish and lazy, so i didnt film the unboxing. having said that, its pretty much as plug and play as you can get. I have a few modern (less than 3 yr old) bed slingers, but they are friggin dinosaurs compared to the X1. i am completely satisfied with my machine.
Surprised enclosed chambers don't cause more nozzle clogs & require a lower nozzle temperature to avoid heat creep.
And this has been a Ben Heck movie production.
I want you to test a Prusa MK4.
So...
... send him one?
delete the cloud dependency,
then I'd be interested.
this and open source
you can use the printer in LAN only mode and it has almost all, if not all features and they contine to add the ones that were previously not supported in LAN only mode to it.
Hi Ben have you got a VCF Mid West Show Video coming soon?
Nice!
Totally agree with remake on Rocketeer... with a flyby shot of a B17 bomber being torn up by antiaircraft ordnance where he waves to the belly gunner who stops shooting and with a confused look waves back.
There's SO MUCH MORE he could do in a war vs sleepy 1930s LA.
Plants are like fine twine.
52:11 exactly the same questions I have.
The RFID in the Bambu reel must give the machine the full info on what colour, material, optimal settings and preprogramme the machine for that filament etc... to make it worth the effort and expense of creaating the RFID in the reel in the first palce.
They cost like 4 cents now in bulk not too expensive
Automatic Material System System.
Seriously this is the only channel I watch that mentions Menards.
Did you watch it on your phone's LCD display? :) I've thought about making a hidden camera Menards video and narrating it later, like LGR did with Goodwill.
You missed @technology connections
Lost in the pond
Green Paris Hilton is scary!
I am sure it was mentioned but some of these models should have been printed in a different orientation so there are no supports, as they were not needed ie. game badge case.
did you find Ludicrous speed mode on the printer? in settings on the touch screen under temp/axis there is a speed-o-meter icon with 100% listed. select and you can run silent at 50% speed, standard 100%, Sport 124% and Ludicrous at 166% . it's a little disappointing there is no ridiculous speed. Make sure to secure all the animals in the zoo (including Bud) before attempting.
It has to be done on the LCD? It's weird how much relies on the LCD considering the P1P's screen is so basic.
@@BenHeckHacks you can set it on bambu studio's device page
You can do it from the “device” screen on your computer too. Also that’s where you can enter filament info. You can also change the temp on the fly or skip objects on the fly. And speaking of objects you can just load stls simultaneously and the software will ask if they are one object.
did this man just BITE the printer and say yeah it's aluminum?
Never grow up Ben
I can agree with a good deal of Ben's movie opinions, but The Rocketeer is perfect as is.
I loved it when I was 15 but when I revisited it decades later.... Meh. Now TMNT 1990... That movie still holds up. See also Monster Squad.
How to recognize a veteran...
Do you ever livestream the pinball builds anymore.
printing in air sounds very similar to getting on your back and looking up at the floor
Somebody got to recycle those bits of PLA . They count as much as those cardboard ones for napkins. Recycle the printed doodles too
"who's that guy that's like I'm gonna buy 5 broken playstations and fix em"! which one..about 14k of those dudes surfin the tubes at any given moment
For those of you who are watching in black and white, the pink is next to the green. Snooker back in the days before colour television.
Awesome video. The chapters fade, and music was epic.
Old video so maybe you already know this. When you have an ams and print say PLA with supports you can make an interface layer with petg. So print all supports with PLA until the last interference layer is being printed. When it prints with petg you can have z 0 as interface distance and you can barely tell support was used.