This is my second first printer. My first first printer was an Ender 3.... It taught me all the things I didn't know I didn't want to know about 3d printing. :) The A1 mini is fun right out of the box without having to learn bed leveling, e-steps and firmware updates. Take it out of the box, pick a print and you're off to the races. That's what a first printer should be.
So true. It's so tempting. But if you use logical it's not a very useful tool. The only people being benefited by 3d printers are the youtube reviewers, the 3d printer manufacturer, innovators, hobbiest, and designers. People should not be thinking of these machines as consumer electronics. But I have to admit it's appealing, but I'm sure it'll end up as a dust collector for the majority of the people.
Some things to remember about multi-color waste are that the amount of waste is dependent on how many times the model requires color changes and how many copies of the model can be printed on the same build plate. Minimize color changes throughout the model (which side it prints on can help) Make duplicates on the same build plate. Not only will you minimize waste, you will ensure your print is successful in the event one of the models fails, as it won’t be the only chance at success.
The only thing I would change about advice to the person buying their first printer, is to get the mini without the AMS. Just print a bunch of stuff with one color. Keep it simple. After 5 years with Ender 3s, I just got my Bambu mini without the AMS. The projects I do don't require color changes. If I decide I want an AMS, I can always add that later. Without the AMS, it was only $250! Unreal!
A good alternative I would recommend for entry and mid level if willing to drop some features, are the sovol sv06 and sv06 plus. $210-310 and have a bigger build volume and all the important stuff, like autoleveling, runout sensor, and hot temps. Very reliable and took less than 20 min to assemble and start up.
The FLIR accuracy depends on how close the emissivity of the material is to the emissivity setting in the software. It will also be effected by the temperature of the air between the surface and the sensor. These could explain a chunk of the discrepancy.
Add some PVC (electrical insulation) tape to the surface for vaguely accurate temperature measurements with the usual standard default emissivity setting (0.95-1.0)
The printer has an actual probe to measure the temperature accurately but the firmware isn't using it to compensate for the results & it's closed so nobody can mod it either.
If anybody isn't sold on the bed size, it's been hinted that because of the naming of this printer (A1 Mini), there will be larger versions of this printer, one of which is apparently helmet-class, so larger than the X1C. There isn't a confirmed date for any of these, but it does get me a little hyped.
im honestly very skeptical of that; i definitely believe bambu has a larger format printer in the works, its a market segment people really want them to fill and its a no brainer, but im extremely doubtful that their large format will be a bedslinger of any kind, it just does not scale well when it comes to the speed that bambulab likes to deliver
@@aoife8415 Hindsight glasses always give 20/20 vision. The A1 might not be a 'helmet-class' printer (unless you have a small head) but Bambu definitely had something in mind when the named their baby printer the A1 Mini. Who knows where Bambu will go with their next printer, a P1P max with enclosure and AMS options perhaps.
I love my X1C and P1P and that is because I can use them as tools. I love the fact that I don't have to tinker(much) with things to just get a print to work. I love the changes to the AMS they ma de for the A1, but I use the AMS for holding multiple materials as opposed to multi-color prints and I liked it so much on the X1C that I purchased one for my P1P (for those less demanding material prints). I am glad that Bambu Labs have released a more approachable model and I love what it had done to the market. I am just holding off for something bigger as the larger offerings I've seen from the competition as nice, but aren't quite at the 'tool' level just yet with maybe one exception but if I'm paying over a $1K for a printer, I don't also want to have to put it together. Can't wait to see some fans printed with the A1 in future showdowns.
I built the creality ender 3 v2 over a year ago. Wasn't ready to tighten everything down before checking everything was connected correctly. This was a late night 3 hr project while watching a movie. So I put it on my desk with the intent to test and tighten everything up in the morning. That is still the plan...
😂 I can understand that. I have an RC plane hanging from my ceiling to remind me to install the flight controller and GPS so I can start learning to use it for autonomous flights so I can build a bigger one for photography reasons... That's been there since before corona. And my original 3D printer needs a new nozzle and possibly heatbreak after cooking the PTFE inside them... That's been the case for a similar amount of time. I do have a better 3D printer too, so that's sort of why I haven't bothered. But it would be nice to get going again.
As someone who was in the same boat, starting with an ender 3, I just got a bambulab p1s and I will never turn back. I used to love tinkering on my printer but it gets old fast when you need to get parts done quick. My Voron 0.1 now sits in the corner of shame because this printer just works so well.
@@SvRider512 It should be better, assuming the poster knows how to build 3d printers. All 3D printers come down to one thing, quality of the print. Bambu is getting in on the Apple marketing method. Design something nice using tech from everyone else, and mark up the price. My 5 year old Creality CR20 prints better than most modern "plug and play" printers. No reason to upgrade unless the print is better. Tinkering with the printer is just part of the job. Bambu is still new. Give it 3-4 years when they start to fail and people need to replace / repair the part. Good luck.
I ordered both this and the Neptune 4 Plus. I wanted to go bigger from my Ender 3 S1, but also wanted colour. The Bambu printers just weren't big enough, and these 2 are a very affordable package. Sure the Neptune can't do colour, but I wouldn't do colour prints that large anyway.
good review. Only thing I have to add is that the music is from the motors themselves, and I don't think A1 mini uses a speaker for active noise cancellation. they probably use some algorithm to optimize the waveform going to the steppers.
Bambu Lab really flipped the prosumer segment on its ear. I'm glad to see them continue to push the market to make a better printer. This one seems to aim to be a Prusa mini killer. Exactly the same build volume. The market really needed printers that could be tools.
Honestly I also hate fiddling with printers BUT even the best printer will fail you at some point and when that happens imo it's good to already have the necessary knowledge when that happens. That's why I'm glad my first printer was the Ender 3, the ultimate thinker machine.
The only thing you learned is how to work on an Ender 3. When parts on the Bambu break, you'll be able to buy replacement parts for it and learn to repair the Bambu. You genuinely have to decide if you want projects and electronics to be what you learn, or just how to work on a cheap printer. It's a waste of time and money.
@@Michael-hn8bo Since I had my first printer I serviced many others and sure they might have different parts but the process behind repairs is fairly similar. The main transferable skill is trouble shooting.
@@Michael-hn8bo While I somewhat agree. You can learn a lot about the many different facets of printing. Having to think about how to design your print and how to tune you settings to get good results is something you learn quite fast on a crappy printer. And it helps you make better prints in general.
Got Prusa MK2, MK3, MK4 and now Bambu A1 mini with AMS Lite. If you tune settings a little it prints even better than MK4 and ofc much faster. Look at the price. A1 mini is no brainer here.
I've had the Ender 2 for many years now, and I've upgraded a few things on it. New motherboard with silent stepper drivers, glass build plate, PEI build plate. It's a fairly reliable machine for me, as long as the first couple of layers don't mess up. In the beginning, I was constantly tweaking and tinkering things, I even wrote my own firmware to use ESP3D (which barely works sometimes). Back then it was very feature packed for such a cheap machine. These days however, I just want the same as you: a tool that works and that just gives me the output I want. I buy very expensive power tools because I don't want to mess around with a lack of power or lack of quality, so why am I messing around with a cheap printer? This one really seems to be a great balance between affordable, good user experience, high speed and good quality. I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet, but I'm definitely keeping my eye on it.
I can't wait to sell my right hand to buy the new flagship when they combine all the new features from all these printers into one. X1 Titanium has a nice ring.
After watching this video. I decided this was the perfect FIRST 3D printer for our household. When talking about the Bambu printers at Micro Center, it occurred to me that as much as I love this one. I am positive my cats would love it just as much. LOL So maybe the P1S with the covered multi spool???
The active noise canceling is something I was trying to make for my generator. If I was smarter I could get it to work better Cause different frequency travel at different speeds and directions so its harder to do than you'd think. So you have to pick the frequencies you want to cancel. Lower frequency sounds are easier. To really do it well you woukd need a microphone you place a distance away in the direction and distance you want the noise canceled. And it records and modifies the cancel waves for the sounds that reaches that spot. Modifying the phase separately for various frequencies. With my basic skills I could reduce the DB some what with just a microphone and amplifier that had a phase correction pot. I'm sure I wasn't 180 out of phase but with a one cyl engine that keeps the same RPM for the most part I could be seconds out of phase but the waves still looked simular.
I'm just starting out with 3D printing, I was originally thinking I should go with a larger one, mostly because it's probably better quality, but this video really showed that the smaller one is still really good... Price was also a problem, the bigger one is obviously more expensive and considering it's something I MIGHT keep as a hobby, do I really wanna spend so much money on something that I end up not being that much of a fan of? So now I'm questioning myself on whether I should get this, sure the lower price is great, it makes me feel more confident that if i buy it I'm not gonna be bummed if I don't enjoy it or find much use for 3D printing, but on the other hand what if it's just too small and I've handicapped myself with my purchase. Then I'd need to buy a larger one and be out of more money. I know you can print smaller things, but it looking dodgy when glued together is a fear of mine, it's something I haven't looked that much into, hopefully there are ways to make cut larger pieces look great when glued together. If there is, this might just be perfect for me.
As far as I know the "speakers" are actually the stepper motors and the noise cancelling is not your typical noise cancelling like when using speakers.
I might pickup one of these, when just the non-bundle A1's go on sale. Then I can use it while I wait for the next generation of their larger printers come out (X1C/P1S v2); since I like the idea of having the upgrade path for 4+ color prints on those machines. Don't plan on doing the print farm thing (this time around), so one small and one large multi-color printer will work for my needs.
Ohh im gonna need to get one of thoose. I have a Cetus that i got from a friend sadly the powercord is nowhere to be found and i cant find a new one so this will be a great buy when i can afford it. Thanks for sharing buddy. Keep up the good work
I really hope they make an extension mod or hack for it or someone in the community 😉 lol but I'm thinking of getting it just for the ANC like that's crazy good to think it works in a outside environment 😮
There was a system being created idrm by whom, but it was a hot swappable hotel nozzle assembly. Where it would swap out not even the cooler...etc. it would just swap out the hot end ensemble and make it so you didn't have to purge you hot end, because well you're swapping it. You'd just run your extruder in reverse, the hot end would swap in this time, and then with a set up like this with an extruder all hooked up to one feed assembly you could then just let the next filliment fill the new nozzle. And if you color code your nozzles, or even material code them. You don't need a purge block to do it, and the system to my knowledge is fairly cheep. Because you're not having to replace the heater block...etc. its only the nozzle and heat assembly *that attaches to the heater block and cooling when its switched.* I think the model i saw was Petg based because it was a prototype but it did completely eliminate the purge block, but only down side was the filament needed to be hand changed. Which with the stand aside extruder set up of the bambu labs A1 shouldn't be a problem. The major change would be the hot end assembly. I believed they used something like the rapid change e3d nozzle but modified.
I can't modify or make any significant changes to this thing it's all closed source and proprietary so for me Bambu Lab is far from the "BEST" & it really depends who you ask.
@@yoyominYou don't have to close your source or serialize all your parts to have a great-working printer. You only do that crap if you're following Apple's lead. 🖕Bambu.
I don't know about the speed, but those benchies look worth then those that I get from my stock Ender 3 in about 20 minutes of printing. And I am re-building the printing head and adding the Klipper firmware to improve the performance.
You are 100% right. There is a trend in 3d printing where people actually dont care about the final quality of the print, but they care more about how the printer itself looks. This is why you never see people actually trying to print a perfect benchy. They just print a benchy and thats it. No... the whole point of a benchy is to benchmark the printer. If your benchy has anomalies, then your printer needs tuning. Tune the printer till the benchy is perfect, then give us a review of the printer.
Just because it's not the cheapest doesn't mean it's not entry level. Back when I started printing like 6-7 years ago the Anet A8 was considered THE entry level printer of choice. It was like $150 and everyone started with that machine and spent money upgrading. I'm already seeing tons of people getting into printing with this $300 machine and it's a perfect way to start out for those who don't like to tinker with things too much. If people spend over $1000 on a phone every few years I don't see how a $300 printer can't be entry level.
For me one thing wasn't really clear for the AMS system, can you also print multi-material? For instance print with waterdissovable material for supports.
@Major Hardware with the multi material system have you ever thought about making a fan with different density material like light weight PLA and with regular pla
They've said that they may be able to offer tge noise cancellation on the Carbon later as a firmware update, no additional hardware should be necessary.
I thought the "speakers" it uses for sound and noise cancelling was actually the motors. Am I just misinformed? I heard they were planning on updating the other printers to do the noise cancelling at some point too.
See. I've used 3D printers as tools as well. But I also view my tools to do what they need to do with no bells and whistles. I don't think $300 is a good entry level price. That seems more like a price for a hobbyist. I did learn that the FL sun printers $200 though. So there's that.
My biggest question would be - is it expandable. Usually the issue comes in with being able to configure the firmware to a larger size. Then, doing the hardware mods. Not that I don't mind it as is, but if I wanted to make it better, I kind of like having the option if I want to - affordably.
Do they sell that hot end kit as a standalone? I'd totally buy one that isn't a pain in the ass to change out. Always leaks at least once when I change a nozzle.
Would the AMS Lite work if it was hung upside down above the printer to reduce table space? I suspect the length of each tube must remain uncut do to presets for the filament changes?
The color change poop you showed off for the multicolor benchy was deceiving, because those colors are stacked. Had you had the colors running 90 degrees in a side by side pattern, the poop would be tremendously worse. I dabbled in these "Multi-color" contraption for years now. They are extrememly wasteful. However if you selling the item and you account for the waste in the sale, then it might not bother you. It really comes down to what your printing, and how the colors are oriented. Also keep in mind that batch printing will also save filament, because whether it's one item or twenty of them. It's only pooping the same as 1 item would.
You can dial in your purge volume and get very minimal waste. Stock settings are very generous because they want to make sure it's fully purged. If you don't care as much about that or if your colors are similar it's not a huge deal. You do need to be careful with PVA supports though, because you don't want to get PVA mixed with your PLA, but even then, like 1/4 of what's shown in the video should be fine.
@@jttech44 It really depends on your print geometry and colors. IE: white, takes a bit to purge all the other colors out of it, while black doesn't. I've had prints where the waste was 50/50 or even less. But then I've also had waste where the waste weighed 10x the amount of the finished print. If your only printing simple objects with just a few colors in a few spots, then sure, it's not all that bad. But if your printing complicated 4+ color models, it's gonna cost you filament, it's just the nature of the beast. There's no way around it on these style of systems. Other than letting the colors blend together, and that's not always a wanted visual. I guess what it ultimately comes down to is if you care or just don't care about the waste. That's the subjective part.
I think that I would still recommend an Ender 3 as a first printer. Not that this isn't a cool printer but the Ender 3 is 100 bucks less and still reliable enough to work out of the box for the most part. Also that build plate is just too small. I also worry that all of the extra tech on it will make it less reliable overall.
I clicked link to but one. It said $299. Happy, ready to pay. Next page opens $459. Now I'm skeptical. Not gonna buy now. I hate bait and hook tactics.
Like all Bambu printers there is too much poop with the AMS, sometimes more required than the print. One would think that with all their so called great engineers they would solve this issue. Oh, but wait. They do sell filament, don't they. Until this issue is solved I would not even consider buying with AMS. On the other hand, using it without the AMS (that is using one color) makes it a great entry level system.
The AMS is great for so much more than multi-color printing, and with some fine tuning the waste amount is very low. There is no good way to do multi-color prints in a cheap and reliable way without this waste. Just look at the way more expensive Prusa XL with multiple hot-ends, it solves the issue of waste but a lot of people are already struggling with the machines being unreliable. You can't expect to have a solution only found on $2500+ machines, on a $300 machine. They aren't doing it this way to earn extra money, they are doing it because the market for a multi hot-end $2500+ machine is really low. I have 600+ hours on my X1C and have probably made less than 100 grams of waste, it's brilliant for just having different filament types and colors loaded up and ready to print. Instead of dealing with manually loading and unloading filaments for every print I just select it in the slicer.
This is my second first printer. My first first printer was an Ender 3.... It taught me all the things I didn't know I didn't want to know about 3d printing. :) The A1 mini is fun right out of the box without having to learn bed leveling, e-steps and firmware updates. Take it out of the box, pick a print and you're off to the races. That's what a first printer should be.
Don’t tempt me to get it, I’m already broke enough
It's too expensive for you.
Sammmeeeeee
I don’t have a 3D printer problem….. the world just needs a lot of fixing….. which feeds my 3D printer problem
Same!!!
So true. It's so tempting. But if you use logical it's not a very useful tool. The only people being benefited by 3d printers are the youtube reviewers, the 3d printer manufacturer, innovators, hobbiest, and designers. People should not be thinking of these machines as consumer electronics. But I have to admit it's appealing, but I'm sure it'll end up as a dust collector for the majority of the people.
you can adjust the multiplier in flushing volumes for the color changes and minimize the amount of waste for anyone that's considering the AMS stuff.
It doesnt have speakers. It uses the stepper motors to make the sounds. You can even upload gcodes to produce MIDI music on them. Pretty neat.
you are correct
like toothbrush
Some things to remember about multi-color waste are that the amount of waste is dependent on how many times the model requires color changes and how many copies of the model can be printed on the same build plate.
Minimize color changes throughout the model (which side it prints on can help)
Make duplicates on the same build plate.
Not only will you minimize waste, you will ensure your print is successful in the event one of the models fails, as it won’t be the only chance at success.
The only thing I would change about advice to the person buying their first printer, is to get the mini without the AMS. Just print a bunch of stuff with one color. Keep it simple. After 5 years with Ender 3s, I just got my Bambu mini without the AMS. The projects I do don't require color changes. If I decide I want an AMS, I can always add that later. Without the AMS, it was only $250! Unreal!
A good alternative I would recommend for entry and mid level if willing to drop some features, are the sovol sv06 and sv06 plus. $210-310 and have a bigger build volume and all the important stuff, like autoleveling, runout sensor, and hot temps. Very reliable and took less than 20 min to assemble and start up.
Believe the SV06 has been discontinued. I have a new one that has bed level issues if anyone wants to buy it.
The FLIR accuracy depends on how close the emissivity of the material is to the emissivity setting in the software. It will also be effected by the temperature of the air between the surface and the sensor. These could explain a chunk of the discrepancy.
Add some PVC (electrical insulation) tape to the surface for vaguely accurate temperature measurements with the usual standard default emissivity setting (0.95-1.0)
The printer has an actual probe to measure the temperature accurately but the firmware isn't using it to compensate for the results & it's closed so nobody can mod it either.
If anybody isn't sold on the bed size, it's been hinted that because of the naming of this printer (A1 Mini), there will be larger versions of this printer, one of which is apparently helmet-class, so larger than the X1C. There isn't a confirmed date for any of these, but it does get me a little hyped.
im honestly very skeptical of that; i definitely believe bambu has a larger format printer in the works, its a market segment people really want them to fill and its a no brainer, but im extremely doubtful that their large format will be a bedslinger of any kind, it just does not scale well when it comes to the speed that bambulab likes to deliver
@@aoife8415 Hindsight glasses always give 20/20 vision. The A1 might not be a 'helmet-class' printer (unless you have a small head) but Bambu definitely had something in mind when the named their baby printer the A1 Mini. Who knows where Bambu will go with their next printer, a P1P max with enclosure and AMS options perhaps.
I love my X1C and P1P and that is because I can use them as tools. I love the fact that I don't have to tinker(much) with things to just get a print to work. I love the changes to the AMS they ma de for the A1, but I use the AMS for holding multiple materials as opposed to multi-color prints and I liked it so much on the X1C that I purchased one for my P1P (for those less demanding material prints). I am glad that Bambu Labs have released a more approachable model and I love what it had done to the market. I am just holding off for something bigger as the larger offerings I've seen from the competition as nice, but aren't quite at the 'tool' level just yet with maybe one exception but if I'm paying over a $1K for a printer, I don't also want to have to put it together. Can't wait to see some fans printed with the A1 in future showdowns.
Purchased! I've wanted a printer for a long time and this is the first I haven't felt like I'm missing something with an entry level device.
I built the creality ender 3 v2 over a year ago. Wasn't ready to tighten everything down before checking everything was connected correctly. This was a late night 3 hr project while watching a movie. So I put it on my desk with the intent to test and tighten everything up in the morning. That is still the plan...
😂 I can understand that. I have an RC plane hanging from my ceiling to remind me to install the flight controller and GPS so I can start learning to use it for autonomous flights so I can build a bigger one for photography reasons... That's been there since before corona.
And my original 3D printer needs a new nozzle and possibly heatbreak after cooking the PTFE inside them... That's been the case for a similar amount of time. I do have a better 3D printer too, so that's sort of why I haven't bothered. But it would be nice to get going again.
I have an Ender 3 v2.
Great first printer, if a little finicky with leveling
I love how this is both true, and a constantly changing statement.
As someone who was in the same boat, starting with an ender 3, I just got a bambulab p1s and I will never turn back. I used to love tinkering on my printer but it gets old fast when you need to get parts done quick. My Voron 0.1 now sits in the corner of shame because this printer just works so well.
Dang the Voron should be an even better machine
@@SvRider512 It should be better, assuming the poster knows how to build 3d printers. All 3D printers come down to one thing, quality of the print. Bambu is getting in on the Apple marketing method. Design something nice using tech from everyone else, and mark up the price.
My 5 year old Creality CR20 prints better than most modern "plug and play" printers. No reason to upgrade unless the print is better. Tinkering with the printer is just part of the job. Bambu is still new. Give it 3-4 years when they start to fail and people need to replace / repair the part. Good luck.
I ordered both this and the Neptune 4 Plus. I wanted to go bigger from my Ender 3 S1, but also wanted colour. The Bambu printers just weren't big enough, and these 2 are a very affordable package. Sure the Neptune can't do colour, but I wouldn't do colour prints that large anyway.
good review. Only thing I have to add is that the music is from the motors themselves, and I don't think A1 mini uses a speaker for active noise cancellation. they probably use some algorithm to optimize the waveform going to the steppers.
Bambu Lab really flipped the prosumer segment on its ear. I'm glad to see them continue to push the market to make a better printer. This one seems to aim to be a Prusa mini killer. Exactly the same build volume.
The market really needed printers that could be tools.
Honestly I also hate fiddling with printers BUT even the best printer will fail you at some point and when that happens imo it's good to already have the necessary knowledge when that happens.
That's why I'm glad my first printer was the Ender 3, the ultimate thinker machine.
The only thing you learned is how to work on an Ender 3. When parts on the Bambu break, you'll be able to buy replacement parts for it and learn to repair the Bambu.
You genuinely have to decide if you want projects and electronics to be what you learn, or just how to work on a cheap printer.
It's a waste of time and money.
@@Michael-hn8bo Since I had my first printer I serviced many others and sure they might have different parts but the process behind repairs is fairly similar. The main transferable skill is trouble shooting.
@@Michael-hn8bo While I somewhat agree. You can learn a lot about the many different facets of printing. Having to think about how to design your print and how to tune you settings to get good results is something you learn quite fast on a crappy printer. And it helps you make better prints in general.
I have the ender 3 v2 that I got in 2020 and it's had such a bad bed wobble for so long it's been sitting unused for 2 years now
@@keithmcdonald3359 also had some on mine, have you tried tuning the wheels?
6:37 its probably not recommended because the bed moves and so does the part through "cool" air
Got Prusa MK2, MK3, MK4 and now Bambu A1 mini with AMS Lite. If you tune settings a little it prints even better than MK4 and ofc much faster. Look at the price. A1 mini is no brainer here.
I've had the Ender 2 for many years now, and I've upgraded a few things on it. New motherboard with silent stepper drivers, glass build plate, PEI build plate. It's a fairly reliable machine for me, as long as the first couple of layers don't mess up. In the beginning, I was constantly tweaking and tinkering things, I even wrote my own firmware to use ESP3D (which barely works sometimes). Back then it was very feature packed for such a cheap machine. These days however, I just want the same as you: a tool that works and that just gives me the output I want. I buy very expensive power tools because I don't want to mess around with a lack of power or lack of quality, so why am I messing around with a cheap printer? This one really seems to be a great balance between affordable, good user experience, high speed and good quality. I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet, but I'm definitely keeping my eye on it.
I can't wait to sell my right hand to buy the new flagship when they combine all the new features from all these printers into one. X1 Titanium has a nice ring.
After watching this video. I decided this was the perfect FIRST 3D printer for our household.
When talking about the Bambu printers at Micro Center, it occurred to me that as much as I love this one. I am positive my cats would love it just as much. LOL
So maybe the P1S with the covered multi spool???
300$? Neat!
This is the printer I have been holding out for.
The active noise canceling is something I was trying to make for my generator. If I was smarter I could get it to work better
Cause different frequency travel at different speeds and directions so its harder to do than you'd think. So you have to pick the frequencies you want to cancel. Lower frequency sounds are easier. To really do it well you woukd need a microphone you place a distance away in the direction and distance you want the noise canceled. And it records and modifies the cancel waves for the sounds that reaches that spot. Modifying the phase separately for various frequencies. With my basic skills I could reduce the DB some what with just a microphone and amplifier that had a phase correction pot. I'm sure I wasn't 180 out of phase but with a one cyl engine that keeps the same RPM for the most part I could be seconds out of phase but the waves still looked simular.
I'm just starting out with 3D printing, I was originally thinking I should go with a larger one, mostly because it's probably better quality, but this video really showed that the smaller one is still really good... Price was also a problem, the bigger one is obviously more expensive and considering it's something I MIGHT keep as a hobby, do I really wanna spend so much money on something that I end up not being that much of a fan of? So now I'm questioning myself on whether I should get this, sure the lower price is great, it makes me feel more confident that if i buy it I'm not gonna be bummed if I don't enjoy it or find much use for 3D printing, but on the other hand what if it's just too small and I've handicapped myself with my purchase. Then I'd need to buy a larger one and be out of more money. I know you can print smaller things, but it looking dodgy when glued together is a fear of mine, it's something I haven't looked that much into, hopefully there are ways to make cut larger pieces look great when glued together. If there is, this might just be perfect for me.
🎉Gd on you m'dude. I'm pulling the trigger on this minia!
As far as I know the "speakers" are actually the stepper motors and the noise cancelling is not your typical noise cancelling like when using speakers.
Fix the AMS to the wall above the printer. Perfect design for wall mounting that triangle footing.
I might pickup one of these, when just the non-bundle A1's go on sale. Then I can use it while I wait for the next generation of their larger printers come out (X1C/P1S v2); since I like the idea of having the upgrade path for 4+ color prints on those machines. Don't plan on doing the print farm thing (this time around), so one small and one large multi-color printer will work for my needs.
For ABS I like to put my printer in the closet with a small heater. Also helps to dampen the sound
Your reveal...cut?...at 2:00'ish was flawless. I see you bein' clever :)
Funny thing is, I've been printing for 2 almost 3 years and I've never printed a benchy
Ohh im gonna need to get one of thoose. I have a Cetus that i got from a friend sadly the powercord is nowhere to be found and i cant find a new one so this will be a great buy when i can afford it. Thanks for sharing buddy. Keep up the good work
I really hope they make an extension mod or hack for it or someone in the community 😉 lol but I'm thinking of getting it just for the ANC like that's crazy good to think it works in a outside environment 😮
There was a system being created idrm by whom, but it was a hot swappable hotel nozzle assembly. Where it would swap out not even the cooler...etc. it would just swap out the hot end ensemble and make it so you didn't have to purge you hot end, because well you're swapping it. You'd just run your extruder in reverse, the hot end would swap in this time, and then with a set up like this with an extruder all hooked up to one feed assembly you could then just let the next filliment fill the new nozzle. And if you color code your nozzles, or even material code them. You don't need a purge block to do it, and the system to my knowledge is fairly cheep. Because you're not having to replace the heater block...etc. its only the nozzle and heat assembly *that attaches to the heater block and cooling when its switched.* I think the model i saw was Petg based because it was a prototype but it did completely eliminate the purge block, but only down side was the filament needed to be hand changed. Which with the stand aside extruder set up of the bambu labs A1 shouldn't be a problem. The major change would be the hot end assembly. I believed they used something like the rapid change e3d nozzle but modified.
The X1C does have the noise canceling update available. It is so much quieter now.
Awesome, thank you. I'm looking for my first printer.
I was thinking about getting a bambu, but im not sure i dont like that its not open source.
Just waiting on mine to arrive. 5 years with the same Ender 3. I've managed to skip the Prusa stage altogether hah!
I can't modify or make any significant changes to this thing it's all closed source and proprietary so for me Bambu Lab is far from the "BEST" & it really depends who you ask.
if you want to mod the get an Ender. There are people out there who don't want to mess around with printers.
@@yoyominYou don't have to close your source or serialize all your parts to have a great-working printer. You only do that crap if you're following Apple's lead. 🖕Bambu.
Great review mate good work
Insane price. A little small for me but i want it
Lol, damn that ad really gave your pop filter a work out.
It lost the battle
I don't know about the speed, but those benchies look worth then those that I get from my stock Ender 3 in about 20 minutes of printing. And I am re-building the printing head and adding the Klipper firmware to improve the performance.
You are 100% right. There is a trend in 3d printing where people actually dont care about the final quality of the print, but they care more about how the printer itself looks. This is why you never see people actually trying to print a perfect benchy. They just print a benchy and thats it. No... the whole point of a benchy is to benchmark the printer. If your benchy has anomalies, then your printer needs tuning. Tune the printer till the benchy is perfect, then give us a review of the printer.
Gonna have to disagree with calling a $300 printer 'entry' level. Entry level is the $99 Ender 3 Pro.
Except it's listed as $459.00 on their website, so I'm not sure where the $300 price came from.
My bad, it defaulted with some combo, so base price is $299.00
Just because it's not the cheapest doesn't mean it's not entry level. Back when I started printing like 6-7 years ago the Anet A8 was considered THE entry level printer of choice. It was like $150 and everyone started with that machine and spent money upgrading. I'm already seeing tons of people getting into printing with this $300 machine and it's a perfect way to start out for those who don't like to tinker with things too much.
If people spend over $1000 on a phone every few years I don't see how a $300 printer can't be entry level.
For me one thing wasn't really clear for the AMS system, can you also print multi-material? For instance print with waterdissovable material for supports.
I want one, but they sold out immediately. I just want to redesign the ams to sit on top so it takes up less space.
Hmmm very tempting...its my birthday today and my brother just asked me whats something I've wanted for a long time but haven't been able to get lmao
@Major Hardware with the multi material system have you ever thought about making a fan with different density material like light weight PLA and with regular pla
It's actually the motors that make the music. Drone motors do the same thing.
They did say they are backporting the noise cancelling and I don't think need any new hardware
I'm still going for a Neptune 4 Pro or Neptune 4 Plus so I can build myself " The 100 " xD
Is this still the best entry level printer? I am looking to get one to build some toys my kids and I will design.
They've said that they may be able to offer tge noise cancellation on the Carbon later as a firmware update, no additional hardware should be necessary.
I thought the "speakers" it uses for sound and noise cancelling was actually the motors. Am I just misinformed? I heard they were planning on updating the other printers to do the noise cancelling at some point too.
Interesting. I just assumed they were speakers I could be wrong.
See. I've used 3D printers as tools as well. But I also view my tools to do what they need to do with no bells and whistles. I don't think $300 is a good entry level price. That seems more like a price for a hobbyist. I did learn that the FL sun printers $200 though. So there's that.
$300 is good for no fuss, out of the box quality prints. But for good self build kit it would be on steep end.
Wow that noise cancelling!
My biggest question would be - is it expandable. Usually the issue comes in with being able to configure the firmware to a larger size. Then, doing the hardware mods. Not that I don't mind it as is, but if I wanted to make it better, I kind of like having the option if I want to - affordably.
lol if you want to mod your printer don't buy Bambu. They are perfect as-is. Get an ender if you enjoy modding, tuning, etc.
@@yoyomin Fair. On the one hand, I like that it just works, on the other hand, I know I'll eventually want a bigger build plate.
Could you please compare this with the elegoo Neptune 4 pro, I'm looking for my first printer and I don't know what I should get.
What about purging it into the infill? Its a setting on the Bamboo Software.
No speakers, it actually uses the motors to make the sound.
@MajorHardware What do you recommend as an entry level / light use 3D printer that can do 250mm minimum in 3 dimensions.?
Can you use the AMS to do multi-material prints. E.g. PETG for pla support
You can print an adapter for the carbon spools.
Do they sell that hot end kit as a standalone? I'd totally buy one that isn't a pain in the ass to change out. Always leaks at least once when I change a nozzle.
They do sell the hotend, but it's only compatible with Bambu A1
Would the AMS Lite work if it was hung upside down above the printer to reduce table space? I suspect the length of each tube must remain uncut do to presets for the filament changes?
I think they will. I'm sure there will be lots of AMS lite mount models on makerworld very soon.
@@yoyomin Yep. I see that there already is. Thanks for sharing.
can you maybe do review on bambu labs a1 mini vs the prusa mini puls.?
Impossible to get Bambu Lab to answer emails, I've now given up
Not me thinking about how I can offload my E3V2 to subsidize getting an A1 kekw
So when are you replacing the fan in it with a silent fan from the showdown lol
The color change poop you showed off for the multicolor benchy was deceiving, because those colors are stacked. Had you had the colors running 90 degrees in a side by side pattern, the poop would be tremendously worse. I dabbled in these "Multi-color" contraption for years now. They are extrememly wasteful. However if you selling the item and you account for the waste in the sale, then it might not bother you. It really comes down to what your printing, and how the colors are oriented. Also keep in mind that batch printing will also save filament, because whether it's one item or twenty of them. It's only pooping the same as 1 item would.
You can dial in your purge volume and get very minimal waste. Stock settings are very generous because they want to make sure it's fully purged. If you don't care as much about that or if your colors are similar it's not a huge deal.
You do need to be careful with PVA supports though, because you don't want to get PVA mixed with your PLA, but even then, like 1/4 of what's shown in the video should be fine.
@@jttech44 It really depends on your print geometry and colors. IE: white, takes a bit to purge all the other colors out of it, while black doesn't. I've had prints where the waste was 50/50 or even less. But then I've also had waste where the waste weighed 10x the amount of the finished print. If your only printing simple objects with just a few colors in a few spots, then sure, it's not all that bad. But if your printing complicated 4+ color models, it's gonna cost you filament, it's just the nature of the beast. There's no way around it on these style of systems. Other than letting the colors blend together, and that's not always a wanted visual. I guess what it ultimately comes down to is if you care or just don't care about the waste. That's the subjective part.
Multi-tool for the win. No purge.
What red filament is the ghost made of. It looks darker the voxel red
@Microcenter get them in ASAP!
Looking for a 3D printer, thank you!!!
I hipe they do a spftware update to fix that camera fps
When Does it Poop is it only when switching colors?
$199usd now with their anniversary sale😮 ..even cheaper in canada at $249 cdn.
"It's the first thing you have to run it's required by law"
Will you review a the new ender 3 v3 se?
I think that I would still recommend an Ender 3 as a first printer. Not that this isn't a cool printer but the Ender 3 is 100 bucks less and still reliable enough to work out of the box for the most part. Also that build plate is just too small. I also worry that all of the extra tech on it will make it less reliable overall.
Hmm that printer sounds great but i would need the asl thingii
Can you try if the ams can be used on the p1p or p1s?
Unfortunately no.
I clicked link to but one.
It said $299.
Happy, ready to pay.
Next page opens $459.
Now I'm skeptical.
Not gonna buy now.
I hate bait and hook tactics.
It's 459 with the Ams lite it's 299 for just the printer
It just takes... A little bit of reading.. The $459 is with the AMS combo. $300 for the printer by itself. Please read the words on your screen.
Does the AMS lite work on the X1C?
No
Only ... it does NOT have speakers! All sounds that it makes and also the noise-cancelation are all done with the stepper motors!
Isn't that valve timing wayyyyyy off? 😆
Good review, will consider.
180 out of phase. Seconded
i think it good
its funny i just got the neptune 3 plus, i couldnt image going smaller xD
These machines are great for youtubers and as a tool but not as the 1st machine.
Like all Bambu printers there is too much poop with the AMS, sometimes more required than the print. One would think that with all their so called great engineers they would solve this issue. Oh, but wait. They do sell filament, don't they. Until this issue is solved I would not even consider buying with AMS. On the other hand, using it without the AMS (that is using one color) makes it a great entry level system.
The AMS is great for so much more than multi-color printing, and with some fine tuning the waste amount is very low. There is no good way to do multi-color prints in a cheap and reliable way without this waste.
Just look at the way more expensive Prusa XL with multiple hot-ends, it solves the issue of waste but a lot of people are already struggling with the machines being unreliable.
You can't expect to have a solution only found on $2500+ machines, on a $300 machine.
They aren't doing it this way to earn extra money, they are doing it because the market for a multi hot-end $2500+ machine is really low.
I have 600+ hours on my X1C and have probably made less than 100 grams of waste, it's brilliant for just having different filament types and colors loaded up and ready to print. Instead of dealing with manually loading and unloading filaments for every print I just select it in the slicer.
Your engine is running backwards
Correction.... your engine is running the right direction, your cams are out of phase by 180°
I'd get one for me, if they shiped to brazil.
Some people bring and sell them, at 3 times the price.
A1 has poop yeet mode!
I dont see many options to ship it out of asia
Edit: Nvm I was on a global page
Sure, 180mm… but how many rods to the hogs head?
From 319€ here... Not available now, though.
Can you please give away one to the subscribed comments? Its so cool, but so expensive! I think everyone likes it!
Like so he Can see!
Uhh.. the printer is listed at $459.00 on their US Store.. sooo... yeah..
My bad, it defaults with a combo (with AMS Lite).
I guess that's what happens when you comment before watching the entire video.