It's an amazing feeling to have my pickup back on the road after over a year! As mentioned in the video, we want to say a very big thank you to Skull Bliss for sharing their work with us and our audience. From 8/14/22 to 9/14/22, we have secured a one time $50 off coupon on any order at shop.skullbliss.com/WWaA0udXEg when you use our code: JIM50 Thank you all for your support! 😁
Hi nick I am in pueblo which is a bit of a distance from you but if you ever wanted to tune it or need help with tuning it I would help you out for sure. I can do remote tuning for you to. I would do it to help you out as a thankyou for the killer videos and the help it provides us gearheads. I will be calling this week to set up a time to have my BBF block work done and can chat with you then if your interested. I would do it free of charge
I had an engine built for me by a shop but per the cam card specs I had to install a second set of valve springs after it was broken in. I did the job and still haven't started the engine after 4 months. Just been working around it scared to death I've got my valve adjustment wrong. I've got $30k in this thing and scared to death.
I've built a ton of motors and they're always thoughts that run through your head of what was missed or may have been wrong. Generally they're unfounded and everything is alright but every now and then you find something will mess up
Have you seen Richard Holdener's videos on the Truck Norris cam? Also, what would your current turn around time for a new bbc build (dart heads & block)
I think the most satisfying part of first engine start up is smelling your fingerprints burning off !!! Smells like burnt skin along with any oil from on the outside of the engine if any was spilled.. LOL
I love this channel - the camaraderie between you and your dad is just brilliant. My dad was REME (Royal Electrical & Mechanical Engineers) in the British Army. He was an engine builder specialising in American V8's. He was highly respected in his trade and as father and son we built some really great engines for some great cars. He lost his battle with cancer aged just 59. This channel reminds me of those happier days when dad was still around and helps keep my mind fresh with the things he taught me. Thanks again Jimmie and Nicolaus :-) Greetings from Finland!
Your attention to details is impressive guys. Doing such quality work for customers as you do for yourself says a lot about your character. God bless you all.
I can see you are putting lot of work not only into this engine but also into filming, voice over and editing - all with a greate result. Due to not having the resources - tools, parts, time and knowledge - I have just dingleberried the cylinders, plastic guaged bearings roughly according to spec, slapped it together with a prayer in fath of not having to clean up its guts within a mile or three. Watching you doing a rebuild the correct way is not only entertaining - but in deed educating. Thank you for posting - much appreciated. Blessings from Norway, Helge
Thank you for the hard work that goes into producing the videos you share. This youtube thing has been really neat getting to see what real "reality" is like. You and your father are a great team, and do a wonderful job explaining what you do in each process. Keep them coming.
I’m sure it’s a little nerve racking doing the delete and tuning for the first time but how awesome is it to have your own shop to build your own engine in! That’s the real dream here. Thanks for sharing
A topic for a video: Angle matching/machining an intake manifold to head interface after milling heads. My local machine shop said my small block didn't need it, wrong, the intake gaskets totally failed along the bottom edge on all 8 and leaked like a sieve into the intake ports with 5k of a total rebuild. The Cleaning Guy probably knows all about this potential issue.
Thanks for sharing the build on your engine - & all your vids. My dad is no longer with us. It's good to see you two (& your mom!) working together. May y'all enjoy many years doing precision production.
You people are delightful. I'm a long retired mechanic (not machinist) and I learn so much from your videos. It makes me wonder if the machine shops I used to deal with were as comprehensive as you are in your knowledge and work.
Congratulations on getting your rig back up and running. After watching you as long as I have I had all faith in your attention to detail that you would be successful.
That is going to be a really good basic engine. The extended skirt on the block remind me of the old Ford 427's I've built...a good, strong bottom end. I liked the engine start up.....no matter whether it is your first engine or one of many, it's a great feeling when it fires up!
Thanks for the ride along! Always a great feeling when she takes off running on her own on that first startup...the lifters clattering always causes that adrenaline rush feeling in your stomach doesn't it? Nice throaty sound with your stock muffler; congrats on the cam and compression homework you did for the rebuild, just that little bit on the front end made an outstanding mill for your truck, should serve you well. Cool runnings!
I really admire all the steps and time you take checking your parts while assembling. I had a 1979 MGB LE that developed a water leak into the oil. I replaced the head gasket 3 times and that was all she wrote. I gave up and told my Dad I’d was done w the car.
Great video! I have been building and rebuilding LS engines since about 2000 and I still learned a nugget in this video; I didn’t know that those thicker valve cover gaskets and corresponding hardware existed. There were a few times I wish I knew that!! I have added that to my mental arsenal 👍
Very impressed how easy it turned over by hand - a real tribute to your skill and attention to detail. Yellaterra? Still get a chuckle at how much Aussie product is used world wide😅🇦🇺
Awesome job, really like you paying attention to details, this is how a do-it-yourself job should look like. One of the better rebuilds of an LS 5.3 on YT, thank you for sharing.
Great job on the rebuild of your 5.3 LS Chevy engine. I like how you and your father work so great together. Loved the video and thanks for sharing.☺️☺️☺️☺️👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You have no idea how blessed you are to be able to say "as my dad..." I miss my dad every day. Call him and buy him breakfast tomorrow (watching this on a Saturday night)....don't wait for Sunday!
So good to see somebody finally using an external pre-luber tank. Saves the battery and starter. On all the diesel marine engines we do we fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge into the system as well. Brilliant units not only for pre-lubing but for finding possible leaks. Better to find a problem on the floor before its run or goes to the engine dyno then into the boat.
Your father taught you well. It’s the attention to detail that serves you well and will for all your years. Thank for sharing this interesting journey you are on. You will win in all things! 💪👍😎✅
I recommend next time BEFORE you start it up the first time, to crank it with just the starter for 15 seconds. I usually do this with the spark plugs removed for a no load oil pressure build up, and i use either a starter remote or a bypass relay for the starter (to avoid any fuel or spark activation, key off). Then I install the plugs and fire it up. Typically the engine is quiet as it is fully primed. Excellent video otherwise, i like seeing "standard builds" as they are more rare on the interweb.
No need to crank the engine. Did you bother to watch the video?? They used a trick external pressurized oil tank which pre-lubes the engine perfectly! Your method is fine, but they did it the “pro” way!
@@paulcopeland9035 you are correct I missed the whole priming part where they used an external oiler, which is an amazing piece of equipment and I'm glad they use it. I still think it's prudent to turn it over with no plugs just before the first startup, gets the oil going under no load through the whole oiling circuit. Hard to say what their actual timeline was but I do very much appreciate their hard work
Great channel you have! I use one half of a standard bearing with one half of a plus or minus 1 bearing of the same brand and style to get the clearance needed on all builds that I have concerns with. Really enjoy your channel.
Even though the engine was primed with oil it always a good idea to disable the actual starting and crank till you build oil pressure, confirm with a gauge if there is not one in the vehicle. Cheers, love the work.
You guys do a great job of sharing your experience. I just watched a UA-cam video of an old time machinist who also shares a lot of his tricks. Brand Racing Engines. Great stuff from both of you. Keep up the good work!
May I suggest an inclusion to the more technical episodes such as this one that had 6 or 8 abbreviated terms or acronyms that left old wrenches such as me completely out of touch. If you could put the full names on the screen of the XMQs and the ZZZs you toss around, it would be wonderful.
Honestly I was pretty nervous lol but at the same time I knew I had done all of my checks, so unless there was a defective part I felt pretty confident it would be okay. Sounds silly but I guess I was both confident and not 😂
I know I've felt anxiety starting up my stuff. Even though I've followed the manuals and done everything right there's still a what if. The damages are the engine and a massive waste of time if parts get destroyed.
@@JAMSIONLINE I build automatic transmissions and never think twice about them when it's someone else's car. Anytime I upgrade/rebuild one for one of my own cars, thought start racing. My business partner will tell me "separate yourself from ownership!" LOL!
So i just watched this video,,,, awesome you used the y/t rocker gear,,,,, i had a set on my old 83 5.0 litre holden i had built many years ago,,,, they are an awesome upgrade on that engine,,,, but i really appreciated the work you put into that engine with the deleted parts etc, not that ill ever bother building a engine like this myself as i have associates who have all the gear,,,, i mainly build myself a few go fast outboards and the aftermarket performance parts for those is flooded with similar information like necessary piston clearances, ring gaps etc,,,,, loved this build
I learned a few assembly tips on that today.. Ive only built one so far... LQ9 6.0 that 5.3 should run great! Next one im working on is a 5.3 with a turbo in a 71 chevelle 4 door
You should have done a time lapse for the engine install. Love your videos. I live in Texas but if I lived closer y'all would be my go to engine machinist/builder. The quality of work coming out of your shop is exactly what I want in an engine builder. 👍👍🇺🇲
Jim,I am a non automotive tool and die maker. When you talk about clearance,would you PLEASE specify if you are talking about clearance per side or diferance in diameter? This question also comes up when we are talking about any angle such as on a 60 degree v thread. IIs it the included angle or per side. Thank you for the clear video and sound,you are the best.
Great Video. The attention to detail is appreciated. That build should last quite a while, unless you get crazy with add-on’s. You guys look to be AC Fans as well, I have a soft spot for the orange tractors as well. It’s nice to know there is a great machine shop still around, when I need some work, I will have to look you up. Thanks for the videos.
I watched the breakdown of the 327 You guys did a great job 👍👍 I could have not done it any better or told the story Is everything I saw you guys were correct
Probably in the minority, but I like the sound with the stock exhaust. Has good sound without being obnoxiously loud. If you wanted to add a bit more, you could go with some headers attached to the stock cat back for more power and a bit more noise.
I’m running a set of .040 over 3.780 (5.3) Icon pistons forged 4032 material. It’ll see max 12 lbs boost in my daily crew cab cat eye. P.S. when I fire up a fresh motor on these platforms, I hold the pedal all the way to the floor and it goes into flood prevention mode and won’t allow it to fire and it’ll turn over for 10 seconds. After the third time of doing this you’ll see your oil pressure gauge register pressure and you’re good to go.
When you put the trans to the motor, and did the converter mount to the flex plate, did you check to make sure you still had enough converter engagement into the front pump? Many times a washer of some varying thickness will be needed between the converter (at the bolts) and flex plate, to gain the proper from pump engagement.
Just an FYI- I read through Eaton's white paper on LS lifters (they're who actually builds them, GM actually designed the engine around them; same lifter is in other things, like my Harley 🤣) LS7 lifters have a design preload of .090-.110", with .100" being nominal, out of .200-.220" total travel. For those Yella Terras, the instructions aren't the best, and their included shims aren't very consistent in thickness or seem to be thick enough; Determine the shim required to get the best wipe pattern on the stem ( I wound up going with .095" shims under the pedestals to get the wipe pattern centered on the stem and thin), and *THEN* measure for pushrod length, and add in your preload. I actually wound up machining the factory rocker stands into one-piece shims at that thickness, so I didn't have to keep track of shims or washers; they make life easier and have little ears to index them on the rocker bosses in the head, and that's something you have the equipment to do. Also, YellaTerra sells a thicker valve cover gasket that spaces the cover out enough to clear the rockers without having to remove any metal from inside the valve covers.
It definitely helps a bit with power for an application like this, as well as mpg. That being said I didn’t really do this build with mpg high on my list of concerns (I have other vehicles if I’m trying to save gas). I explained in another comment but in short, my thought process was to eliminate as many possible weak links considering the slightly higher spring pressures w/ the setup on the heads I built. Hope that makes sense!
Hope mine goes as smooth. I'm getting parts together for mine. Literally as close to same job as possible. 2012 red ltz lol. Mine is ext cab is the only difference. I'm going to keep the VVT I'm thinking though.
Pro tip: I don’t think there is an O2 sensor behind the last cat in the exhaust. If it disappeared some how it really opens up the exhaust note without making it annoying to drive.
That is exactly what I am going to do with my Lc9 motor when it dies, I have 166 thousand miles on it now. The cam and the roller rockers and everything else you did. Except maybe a stronger oil pump.
I like your videos, like how you explain procedures. Only thing I disagree with is using assembly lube on cylinders. It takes to long for it to wash out and the possibility of it burning and gluing the rings in the grooves. Total Seal recommends wd-40 on the cylinder and ring pack. I use wd-40 on cylinders and a very light coat of oil on the skirts only.
It is very interesting and educational to watch you at work! Like watching your videos! I just don't understand why you would removed the VVT? I know that with a Japanese engine it is a simple technique to reliably create more power...
should the second ring gap be bigger than the top ring by .002 " to prevent pressure build up between the two rings and prevent ring chatter. I am no professional builder but I heard this
I hope you used a Melling M365. The aluminum engine needs more volume than pressure to deal with greater tolerances due to heat expansion. The iron block oil pumps generate low oil pressure when used in these motors.
Nope, Melling M295. While the difference in tolerances of an iron block vs an aluminum block should definitely be taken into consideration, I would invite you to reference the second to last page of this catalog from Melling: www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Melling-Performance-GM-LS-Mini-Catalog-updated-4.21.22-LINEAR.pdf You'll see in the list from Melling that the M295 is listed as the replacement for numerous engines, both Aluminum block and iron block. Haven't had any issues w/ pressure so far but I guess I'll keep ya updated lol.
@@JAMSIONLINE Do keep us posted, I prefer the volume over pressure. There were several guys earlier this year with low oil pressure problems and all replaced their M365s with the M295s but I never heard back from them. Appreciate your videos, you did great work getting that motor ready for the next couple hundred thousand miles! Would love to see some torque and horsepower numbers to see how much power the precise machining increased performance or rather, let more power to the ground.
Additional note on priming the oil system for the engine. It's important to make sure the engine has been primed just before engine start up. Not one or two days earlier as you can tell by the lifter noise. Although the lifter noise went away within about 5 seconds of engine start up, in all of my experience, that's not acceptable. Disable ignition and spin the engine over one last time before turning on (plugging it in ) the ignition. Preferably using an oil pressure gauge test tool type or oem gauge on dash to confirm oil pressure before starting engine for first start up.. Great deal on pre priming engine though. Wish you well..
@@JAMSIONLINE I’m just a mechanics son. No where near skill level you have. But I know what it’s like when you can fix your own thing, your way. Love you channel!
Always a bit of anxiety starting up an engine after big repairs. There are so many steps and moving parts that you feel maybe you forgot about something 😱
It's an amazing feeling to have my pickup back on the road after over a year!
As mentioned in the video, we want to say a very big thank you to Skull Bliss for sharing their work with us and our audience. From 8/14/22 to 9/14/22, we have secured a one time $50 off coupon on any order at shop.skullbliss.com/WWaA0udXEg when you use our code: JIM50
Thank you all for your support! 😁
Hi nick I am in pueblo which is a bit of a distance from you but if you ever wanted to tune it or need help with tuning it I would help you out for sure. I can do remote tuning for you to. I would do it to help you out as a thankyou for the killer videos and the help it provides us gearheads. I will be calling this week to set up a time to have my BBF block work done and can chat with you then if your interested. I would do it free of charge
There are VLOM delete kits by Scoggin Dickey
I had an engine built for me by a shop but per the cam card specs I had to install a second set of valve springs after it was broken in. I did the job and still haven't started the engine after 4 months. Just been working around it scared to death I've got my valve adjustment wrong. I've got $30k in this thing and scared to death.
I've built a ton of motors and they're always thoughts that run through your head of what was missed or may have been wrong. Generally they're unfounded and everything is alright but every now and then you find something will mess up
Have you seen Richard Holdener's videos on the Truck Norris cam? Also, what would your current turn around time for a new bbc build (dart heads & block)
The first startup is simultaneously the the most nerve wracking and satisfying part of any engine build. Congratulations!
agreed. it makes a guy fall in love with roller lifters too
I think the most satisfying part of first engine start up is smelling your fingerprints burning off !!! Smells like burnt skin along with any oil from on the outside of the engine if any was spilled.. LOL
I love this channel - the camaraderie between you and your dad is just brilliant. My dad was REME (Royal Electrical & Mechanical Engineers) in the British Army. He was an engine builder specialising in American V8's. He was highly respected in his trade and as father and son we built some really great engines for some great cars. He lost his battle with cancer aged just 59. This channel reminds me of those happier days when dad was still around and helps keep my mind fresh with the things he taught me. Thanks again Jimmie and Nicolaus :-) Greetings from Finland!
Sorry for your loss.
Sorry for your loss. My dad is doing battle also. Cancer is horrible.
Great story, sounds like you had a great dad. Sorry for your loss.
The sense of fulfillment when your own built motor start at the first crank....nothing on earth can beats it...
Your attention to details is impressive guys. Doing such quality work for customers as you do for yourself says a lot about your character. God bless you all.
I can see you are putting lot of work not only into this engine but also into filming, voice over and editing - all with a greate result. Due to not having the resources - tools, parts, time and knowledge - I have just dingleberried the cylinders, plastic guaged bearings roughly according to spec, slapped it together with a prayer in fath of not having to clean up its guts within a mile or three. Watching you doing a rebuild the correct way is not only entertaining - but in deed educating.
Thank you for posting - much appreciated.
Blessings from Norway,
Helge
Thank you for the hard work that goes into producing the videos you share. This youtube thing has been really neat getting to see what real "reality" is like. You and your father are a great team, and do a wonderful job explaining what you do in each process. Keep them coming.
Thank you for the comment! I won’t lie, the videos do take a lot of work, but it’s rewarding.
Thank you for watching!
A good way to make sure you don't damage the crank with the rod is to get some vacuum hose or something like it and put it on the rod bolts/studs
Yep! Or bolt boots! However in this case the rods use capscrews, so they aren’t in the rod during install. Still gotta be careful lol
Ls engines use cap screws, no bolts or studs to crash into crank.
@@JAMSIONLINE especially with a fractured cap rod, one little ding in mating surface and your buying a new rod.
Awesome buddy, dad and mom should be very proud.
You are so fluent with how you talk with no mistakes or pauses. Very professional... you sound like you would've been a english major in college
I’m sure it’s a little nerve racking doing the delete and tuning for the first time but how awesome is it to have your own shop to build your own engine in! That’s the real dream here. Thanks for sharing
There's something so satisfying about putting together a clean engine with a bunch of new parts.
A topic for a video: Angle matching/machining an intake manifold to head interface after milling heads.
My local machine shop said my small block didn't need it, wrong, the intake gaskets totally failed along the bottom edge on all 8 and leaked like a sieve into the intake ports with 5k of a total rebuild.
The Cleaning Guy probably knows all about this potential issue.
Thanks for sharing the build on your engine - & all your vids. My dad is no longer with us. It's good to see you two (& your mom!) working together. May y'all enjoy many years doing precision production.
Congratulations, it feels good to hear that first start after major work like that. All the time and effort will be well worth it.
You people are delightful. I'm a long retired mechanic (not machinist) and I learn so much from your videos. It makes me wonder if the machine shops I used to deal with were as comprehensive as you are in your knowledge and work.
Congratulations on getting your rig back up and running. After watching you as long as I have I had all faith in your attention to detail that you would be successful.
That is going to be a really good basic engine. The extended skirt on the block remind me of the old Ford 427's I've built...a good, strong bottom end. I liked the engine start up.....no matter whether it is your first engine or one of many, it's a great feeling when it fires up!
Damn! Mom and Dad are awesome for all the help! You are definitely Blessed!
Thanks for the ride along! Always a great feeling when she takes off running on her own on that first startup...the lifters clattering always causes that adrenaline rush feeling in your stomach doesn't it? Nice throaty sound with your stock muffler; congrats on the cam and compression homework you did for the rebuild, just that little bit on the front end made an outstanding mill for your truck, should serve you well. Cool runnings!
I really admire all the steps and time you take checking your parts while assembling. I had a 1979 MGB LE that developed a water leak into the oil. I replaced the head gasket 3 times and that was all she wrote. I gave up and told my Dad I’d was done w the car.
Those heads are known to crack. Did you have it magnafluxed?
Great video! I have been building and rebuilding LS engines since about 2000 and I still learned a nugget in this video; I didn’t know that those thicker valve cover gaskets and corresponding hardware existed. There were a few times I wish I knew that!! I have added that to my mental arsenal 👍
Yells Terra P/N YT5132! jamsionline.com/valve-cover-spacer-seal-gm-ls-series-yella-terra-yt5132/
Very impressed how easy it turned over by hand - a real tribute to your skill and attention to detail.
Yellaterra? Still get a chuckle at how much Aussie product is used world wide😅🇦🇺
Nice bulid ,
Putting an engine together is like an artist painting on a canvas.
The cam chosen has a nice sound and power band as well.
Be safe all !
It appears to be a fantastic job! Good quality work, and very clean as well. And you get to work with your old man…you should be very proud.
Awesome job, really like you paying attention to details, this is how a do-it-yourself job should look like. One of the better rebuilds of an LS 5.3 on YT, thank you for sharing.
Impressive "precise" craftsmanship. As a mechanic, I admire your work and learn from you. More videos like this please
Thank you! 😁 will keep them coming!
Great job on the rebuild of your 5.3 LS Chevy engine. I like how you and your father work so great together. Loved the video and thanks for sharing.☺️☺️☺️☺️👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You have no idea how blessed you are to be able to say "as my dad..." I miss my dad every day. Call him and buy him breakfast tomorrow (watching this on a Saturday night)....don't wait for Sunday!
🙌 Congratulations 🎊.
Many Many miles await you and your new engine. Great job 👍.
Really enjoyed this series. Your truck is better than new!
So good to see somebody finally using an external pre-luber tank. Saves the battery and starter. On all the diesel marine engines we do we fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge into the system as well. Brilliant units not only for pre-lubing but for finding possible leaks. Better to find a problem on the floor before its run or goes to the engine dyno then into the boat.
Your father taught you well. It’s the attention to detail that serves you well and will for all your years. Thank for sharing this interesting journey you are on. You will win in all things! 💪👍😎✅
Another very satisfied customer. 👍 New shop looks really good.
Indeed! Thank you!
I recommend next time BEFORE you start it up the first time, to crank it with just the starter for 15 seconds. I usually do this with the spark plugs removed for a no load oil pressure build up, and i use either a starter remote or a bypass relay for the starter (to avoid any fuel or spark activation, key off). Then I install the plugs and fire it up. Typically the engine is quiet as it is fully primed. Excellent video otherwise, i like seeing "standard builds" as they are more rare on the interweb.
No need to crank the engine. Did you bother to watch the video?? They used a trick external pressurized oil tank which pre-lubes the engine perfectly! Your method is fine, but they did it the “pro” way!
@@paulcopeland9035 you are correct I missed the whole priming part where they used an external oiler, which is an amazing piece of equipment and I'm glad they use it. I still think it's prudent to turn it over with no plugs just before the first startup, gets the oil going under no load through the whole oiling circuit. Hard to say what their actual timeline was but I do very much appreciate their hard work
Great video! Thanks for taking us along for the ride
Great channel you have! I use one half of a standard bearing with one half of a plus or minus 1 bearing of the same brand and style to get the clearance needed on all builds that I have concerns with. Really enjoy your channel.
Even though the engine was primed with oil it always a good idea to disable the actual starting and crank till you build oil pressure, confirm with a gauge if there is not one in the vehicle. Cheers, love the work.
You guys do a great job of sharing your experience. I just watched a UA-cam video of an old time machinist who also shares a lot of his tricks. Brand Racing Engines. Great stuff from both of you. Keep up the good work!
May I suggest an inclusion to the more technical episodes such as this one that had 6 or 8 abbreviated terms or acronyms that left old wrenches such as me completely out of touch.
If you could put the full names on the screen of the XMQs and the ZZZs you toss around, it would be wonderful.
As an engine builder, is there any anxiety when you start up the engine you built? Second guessing anything? Or were you cool as a cucumber?
Honestly I was pretty nervous lol but at the same time I knew I had done all of my checks, so unless there was a defective part I felt pretty confident it would be okay.
Sounds silly but I guess I was both confident and not 😂
I know I've felt anxiety starting up my stuff. Even though I've followed the manuals and done everything right there's still a what if. The damages are the engine and a massive waste of time if parts get destroyed.
@@JAMSIONLINE I build automatic transmissions and never think twice about them when it's someone else's car. Anytime I upgrade/rebuild one for one of my own cars, thought start racing. My business partner will tell me "separate yourself from ownership!" LOL!
Nervous as hell gets my vote. I’m always terrified a rod will go flying.
Yes, Murphys Law......😁
So i just watched this video,,,, awesome you used the y/t rocker gear,,,,, i had a set on my old 83 5.0 litre holden i had built many years ago,,,, they are an awesome upgrade on that engine,,,, but i really appreciated the work you put into that engine with the deleted parts etc, not that ill ever bother building a engine like this myself as i have associates who have all the gear,,,, i mainly build myself a few go fast outboards and the aftermarket performance parts for those is flooded with similar information like necessary piston clearances, ring gaps etc,,,,, loved this build
I learned a few assembly tips on that today.. Ive only built one so far... LQ9 6.0
that 5.3 should run great! Next one im working on is a 5.3 with a turbo in a 71 chevelle 4 door
Those first 2 seconds during startup while it was building oil pressure were scary because it sounded off. Thankfully it cleared right up.
New lifters pumping up and expelling air, totally expected.
Sounds great with the stock muffler! Great job!!
You should have done a time lapse for the engine install. Love your videos. I live in Texas but if I lived closer y'all would be my go to engine machinist/builder. The quality of work coming out of your shop is exactly what I want in an engine builder. 👍👍🇺🇲
Jim,I am a non automotive tool and die maker. When you talk about clearance,would you PLEASE specify if you are talking about clearance per side or diferance in diameter? This question also comes up when we are talking about any angle such as on a 60 degree v thread. IIs it the included angle or per side. Thank you for the clear video and sound,you are the best.
Always soak your needle bearings in oil and distribute the oil that is ingressed with finger pressure. This will greatly add life to the bearings.
I can see you taking the family business alittle further.. your a good engine builder man, go with the flow. Your destiny awaits brother
Awesome, learn all you can from your old man, he seems like a really smart guy! All your content is 👍
Great Video. The attention to detail is appreciated. That build should last quite a while, unless you get crazy with add-on’s. You guys look to be AC Fans as well, I have a soft spot for the orange tractors as well. It’s nice to know there is a great machine shop still around, when I need some work, I will have to look you up. Thanks for the videos.
Very nice. Grew up in Detroit in the 50-60's. Really enjoyed this. Thanks!
I watched the breakdown of the 327 You guys did a great job 👍👍 I could have not done it any better or told the story Is everything I saw you guys were correct
You can use scotchbrite to gently clearance your bearings when they are tight.
Very cool bud. Boy did all that look familiar ! ( You guys did my 6.0) Running strong....
congrats! that first start's always a thrill!
Very nice! A job well done. I admire your patience in achieving the tolerances.
Do I need to replace VLOM to the LS3-type or install oil line plugs if I just turn off AFM from the ECM ?
If that was genuinely the first start attempt what beauty and a cracking job as always!
Probably in the minority, but I like the sound with the stock exhaust. Has good sound without being obnoxiously loud.
If you wanted to add a bit more, you could go with some headers attached to the stock cat back for more power and a bit more noise.
I have a plan to hopefully get the best of both worlds lol. We will see how it pans out in a couple of months 😁
I’m running a set of .040 over 3.780 (5.3) Icon pistons forged 4032 material. It’ll see max 12 lbs boost in my daily crew cab cat eye. P.S. when I fire up a fresh motor on these platforms, I hold the pedal all the way to the floor and it goes into flood prevention mode and won’t allow it to fire and it’ll turn over for 10 seconds. After the third time of doing this you’ll see your oil pressure gauge register pressure and you’re good to go.
Very nice brother. Very good job. I like those rocker arms. I enjoyed the content very much.
Thanks! I like them too haha just a bit spendy 🤑🫤
For claiming to not be a mechanic, you did a very nice professional job .
Congratulations man! Nothing like that first start!!
She’s alive! Very cool
When you put the trans to the motor, and did the converter mount to the flex plate, did you check to make sure you still had enough converter engagement into the front pump? Many times a washer of some varying thickness will be needed between the converter (at the bolts) and flex plate, to gain the proper from pump engagement.
I’ve used a .001 under (or over) bearing with a std bearing half to get rod bearing clearances where I felt was neither too loose or tight.
I actually contemplated it, tried one rod w/ mixed but ended up deciding to just stick with the .001s
Just an FYI- I read through Eaton's white paper on LS lifters (they're who actually builds them, GM actually designed the engine around them; same lifter is in other things, like my Harley 🤣) LS7 lifters have a design preload of .090-.110", with .100" being nominal, out of .200-.220" total travel. For those Yella Terras, the instructions aren't the best, and their included shims aren't very consistent in thickness or seem to be thick enough; Determine the shim required to get the best wipe pattern on the stem ( I wound up going with .095" shims under the pedestals to get the wipe pattern centered on the stem and thin), and *THEN* measure for pushrod length, and add in your preload.
I actually wound up machining the factory rocker stands into one-piece shims at that thickness, so I didn't have to keep track of shims or washers; they make life easier and have little ears to index them on the rocker bosses in the head, and that's something you have the equipment to do.
Also, YellaTerra sells a thicker valve cover gasket that spaces the cover out enough to clear the rockers without having to remove any metal from inside the valve covers.
What a great job and that satisfying sound!
(it's too late now, but) IF the computer can handle it I'd think the VVT would be a good thing to keep.
I take it you mark the finished screws and bolts with a yellow marker to show it is torqued and done ?
That sounds really nice, really good engine build. You shouldn't get any trouble from that lump now.
Thank you! 😁
Awesome mate! Looking forward to hearing it at WOT 😊 (please!)
I can understand deleting VVT if it’s a race truck. My experience is the VVT helps with power and mpg on mild builds.
It definitely helps a bit with power for an application like this, as well as mpg. That being said I didn’t really do this build with mpg high on my list of concerns (I have other vehicles if I’m trying to save gas).
I explained in another comment but in short, my thought process was to eliminate as many possible weak links considering the slightly higher spring pressures w/ the setup on the heads I built.
Hope that makes sense!
Your Dad should be a lecturer at local University..just like hickok45..your wealth of knowledge is admirable young man..
Quick question, why did you replace the VVT? Does it cause issues?
I love internal combustion engines. I love the smell of gasoline exhaust in the morning!
Im not even going to watch this, it will run like a dream.
If you need some tuning done take it to pfispeed down in Denver
Sounds nice. Would love to get my 5.7 hemi refreshed and eliminate the same things you did. What's the cost for something like that?
When you fitted the STD cracked cap rods did you bore and bush the small end of the rod to fit the fully floating pistons.
The good ol 5.3 afm dod delete rebuild is definitely next on my to do list.
Hope mine goes as smooth. I'm getting parts together for mine. Literally as close to same job as possible. 2012 red ltz lol. Mine is ext cab is the only difference. I'm going to keep the VVT I'm thinking though.
Pro tip: I don’t think there is an O2 sensor behind the last cat in the exhaust. If it disappeared some how it really opens up the exhaust note without making it annoying to drive.
That was an amazing process! Thanks for share ng these videos!
That is exactly what I am going to do with my Lc9 motor when it dies, I have 166 thousand miles on it now. The cam and the roller rockers and everything else you did. Except maybe a stronger oil pump.
Forged piston and are main and head studs you have to put a turbo on it
I like your videos, like how you explain procedures. Only thing I disagree with is using assembly lube on cylinders. It takes to long for it to wash out and the possibility of it burning and gluing the rings in the grooves. Total Seal recommends wd-40 on the cylinder and ring pack. I use wd-40 on cylinders and a very light coat of oil on the skirts only.
It is very interesting and educational to watch you at work! Like watching your videos!
I just don't understand why you would removed the VVT?
I know that with a Japanese engine it is a simple technique to reliably create more power...
should the second ring gap be bigger than the top ring by .002 " to prevent pressure build up between the two rings and prevent ring chatter. I am no professional builder but I heard this
Had I known about the afm valve in the oil pan my motor would still be running today
I hope you used a Melling M365. The aluminum engine needs more volume than pressure to deal with greater tolerances due to heat expansion. The iron block oil pumps generate low oil pressure when used in these motors.
Nope, Melling M295.
While the difference in tolerances of an iron block vs an aluminum block should definitely be taken into consideration, I would invite you to reference the second to last page of this catalog from Melling: www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Melling-Performance-GM-LS-Mini-Catalog-updated-4.21.22-LINEAR.pdf
You'll see in the list from Melling that the M295 is listed as the replacement for numerous engines, both Aluminum block and iron block.
Haven't had any issues w/ pressure so far but I guess I'll keep ya updated lol.
@@JAMSIONLINE Do keep us posted, I prefer the volume over pressure. There were several guys earlier this year with low oil pressure problems and all replaced their M365s with the M295s but I never heard back from them. Appreciate your videos, you did great work getting that motor ready for the next couple hundred thousand miles! Would love to see some torque and horsepower numbers to see how much power the precise machining increased performance or rather, let more power to the ground.
That's the way an engine should be assembled, better is not possible.
Can't wait to see some 0 to 60 tests I wanna here that engine while driving
Additional note on priming the oil system for the engine. It's important to make sure the engine has been primed just before engine start up. Not one or two days earlier as you can tell by the lifter noise. Although the lifter noise went away within about 5 seconds of engine start up, in all of my experience, that's not acceptable. Disable ignition and spin the engine over one last time before turning on (plugging it in ) the ignition. Preferably using an oil pressure gauge test tool type or oem gauge on dash to confirm oil pressure before starting engine for first start up.. Great deal on pre priming engine though. Wish you well..
LOL..
@@northface484 How many miles are taken from an engine for every second the oil pressure is zero or oil light is on while the engine is running ?
@@jamestsmith4500 LOL...
Congrats sir! I know you do this all the time but it’s extra special when you can do a project for yourself, your way!
Thank you! Very rewarding to work on one for myself 🙂.
@@JAMSIONLINE I’m just a mechanics son. No where near skill level you have. But I know what it’s like when you can fix your own thing, your way. Love you channel!
Always a bit of anxiety starting up an engine after big repairs. There are so many steps and moving parts that you feel maybe you forgot about something 😱
you did an amazing job building that engine WOW
Nice work! The first start is always so rewarding. Were you able to get the tuning nailed down?
Awesome video, loved it!