I like your down to earth method of explaining things, and the way you incurage the viewer to not be afraid to do it for themselves. I wish I had someone like you helping me.
you are not alone. i started pulling mine and once i get it pulled im ordering a new engine to complete the swap. Getting the top transmission bolt off with the use of a jackhandle has been a PITA for me since trying it last night but I was tired. Im going to try and make some more progress today. Wishing you luck
Noshi your videos have been incredibly helpful to me, especially your original multi-part series. This is the icing on the cake. Hopefully I'll have something cool to show soon.
@@nOshi2x My project ran for the first time on Thanksgiving day. I have a video up if you want to see it. The video is not long because it isn't ready to drive yet.
Great video bro watching ur video gave me confidence to remove my n52 by myself for the first time. I thought it was going to be hard and complicated but it was a good learning experience saved me a lot of money doing it myself.
Fantastic video. I need to replace my n52 (snapped timing chain, grenaded piston 2). I have been trying to find somebody who demonstrates the process without pulling the tranny. Brilliant. Thanks so much.
Bro you are a savior! my head on my single turbo 135i went KAPUT so I decided to purchase another engine Ill be swapping it soon this video is going to help me so much! does not look so intimidating, you made it sound simple! Thank you!!!!!
I want to add, I removed the engine and separated the trans and left the trans in the car. It really wasnt too bad lining it back up. Once i got it onto the motor mounts, the bolts lined right up
No prob glad it was of help in your process!! It’s crazy since some cars it lines up easy and others it’s a struggle lol, in either case happy it worked out smooth
I love how when you undo a bolt you put it right back in the same place after taking it apart. Every video I watch I say that. It’s so much easier everybody else labels a bunch of zip lock bags and its just to much to do the whole project like that. Great video my friend! 🤙
I used this for my Single turbo build that lost timing. I normally make my own videos whenever I can't find any good information. Amazing video! Definitely won't be making my own version
Thanks a lot appreciate it! Yea, just in the hopes it help someone else doing the same task. Giving you a follow it’s great to see other peoples experiences and different techniques working on these cars
so i just got hired at a garage with no professional experience and my first job is removing an n54 from a 335d. i’ve only worked on my 2 honda’s in my garage lol so this should be fun. thanks for the vid
No prob and congrats on the job. They threw a wild one at you. But should go over good. The only swap I did was with a d16y8 and then I did an n54 years later. So should translate good working on the 335d.
@@rayzor285 swap went great. Car was a monster. We sold it to a guy that ended up trading it for a shiesty "showcar" e34. So its somewhere in Georgia, now
Awesome video man! 20:05 had me rolling. Pro tip: if you don’t know which way to turn a fastener based on your body’s orientation to it, than you shouldn’t be pulling any engines.
Nice work and great commentary as always! I just finished swapping the motor in my xi, huge pain having to remove subframe and axles.Do you think it's easier to pull it out with the transmission attached instead of messing with all the extensions?
Thanks! Sorry for the late response. Thats a good question. Most of the time I just pull the motor and transmission out together. In this instance I separated the engine from the transmission in the car since I usually always pull the transmission and engine together. So I was just seeing if going this route would be any quicker. I can now say it would be easier to pull it out as one. The main reason I say that is it can be a pain to mate the transmission and the engine together inside the car.
great job on this video, good work on nice car! if you have access to a lift and a table to drop the entire front cradle on to its easy to drop everything out in a few hours. It makes everything very easy to work on and is very time efficient.
Than you for posting this video. I have an E90 N54, That Just broke the timing chain. I Have pulled the valve cover and the intake manifold. I am in the process of removing the head. My quesition would be if you think it is easier to pull the engine from the car or just remove head while still in the vehicle . Thanks again for a great video,
Thanks for viewing, I’d find it easier to just pull the motor, and work on it on a stand. Since the turbos have to be disconnected from the head, and while the head can come off with the motor in the car. With the engine out i find it’s less of a headache to work on it. Also great time to do other preventative maintenance such as oil pan gasket, front and rear main seals, etc.
@@nOshi2x Great Point! I suspect I will be watching your video a few more times in the coming days. I may reach out to you for some more advice if I get stuck along the way.. Thanks again
Was wondering if you had any tips for clearing the AC line that runs across the front of the car. The Charge Air pipe coming off the turbos. Not sure if I have the clearence as I am lifting the engine. Thanks
I just let lift the motor and slide the compressor down as low as possible without putting strain on the a/c hose and lines and you should be able to lift it right over. One variable that might be different is how high the car is on jack stands and the amount of clearance the engine hoist have to lift the motor out. If thats the case, I would lower the jack stands to their lowest level and you should have more clearance. Since your not doing anything else under the car anymore it’s okay to have it lower. Just remember about supporting the transmission unless your pulling the engine and transmission together.
Hey man you should do a video on how you’ve put it back and how it went, personal opinion in doing it idk man, a lot of questions haha You’re doing great keep up
Out of curiosity wouldn't it be easier to just drop the entire subframe with engine transmission all in one go? Just disconnect steering shaft, loosen struts, vacuum and cooling lines it should all come down as a unit and reinstall as a unit.
Yes definitely! The only thing is if your work area or car support methods is restrictive it will be sketchy to lift the body of the car high enough pull the whole assembly from underneath. In my case I’m restricted by jack stands and my garage. For example just removing the automatic transmission and having it on the floor under the car there is no room to slide it out from the sides, or the front. So with the subframe and the engine being taller than the transmission , I’d have to lift the body way higher. In either case a lift would make dropping the subframe with motor and transmission a lot easier especially if you have an xi awd model.
Just had 2/3 of my power steering pump bolts break off in the engine block. Instead of fighting it I thought maybe I should just pull the engine since I already have a new set of turbos I need to install. Thanks to your video I now see it is not crazy hard as I thought and should be fine to do. Just one question, On the regular automatic do I need to unbolt the torque converter bolts?
I will be starting this process on my 135i next week and this video makes it look pretty straight forward. I think I will leave the 6MT attached though, whatchu think? The engine I'm putting in is from a 335xi. Simply swap oil pan and oil pickup, correct?
Yea you can leave the transmission in, saves sometime. Lining up the engine and transmission in the car can be a pain, but as long as you have another person with you it will go smoother. Yes just get a N54 rwd oil pan and you you should be good to go. I haven’t seen the oil pickup tube inside an N54 xi, but getting the oil pick up would save some headaches in case it is oriented different in the rwd version. Quite sure it’s different.
@complexnoshi After doing this yourself with a DCT, it is easier to leave the transmission in like you did in the video or if you had to do it again, would you take the transmission out with the engine?
So you already got me saving for the On3 kit! My current engine has 153k on it, i feel like once the ST gets installed the engine will go soon after! I'm using this video to remove my engine when it does go! Hands down the most detail and well explained engine removal! How much more difficult will it be since im AWD?
Thanks a lot appreciate it. Glad it will be of use to you. For AWD I haven’t done one of those before, but I’d say it’s the same steps plus some additional steps. Such as disconnecting front axels and diff. So maybe like 30 more minutes extra. Shouldn’t be to bad
I find it easier to just leave the downpipe side untouched besides the motor mount and bracket. Once the motor is out can tackle the downpipe and turbo easier, since you’ll have more visibility and access to everything.
With my removal my torque converter or gear box stayed attached to my engine, is that ok ? Nothing seems damaged with the gear teeth grooves or whatever. How do I reinstall it to make sure it’s fine? I guess if it lines up rigjt and the trans bolts back tight and flush then it’s fine right? I’m just tryna figure out how u don’t have tori Torque converter attached to ur engine when u don’t even show the part of you removing the Tori’s converter u only showed u removing the transmission bolts
You can leave it in park if automatic or neutral if 6-speed. It’s only if your pulling the transmission along with the engine, where you will need to alternate between park and neutral. Since you will need to rotate the driveshaft to get access to the bolts holding it to the transmission. So neutral to rotate the driveshaft so you can have access to one of the four bolts, and park to keep the driveshaft from spinning. But if just removing the engine, I’ve left it in both park and neutral no difference motor still comes out.
No prob. Yea you can drop the subframe and pull it, or even pull it from the top without disconnecting the front clip. But if on jack stands and in most home garage going to be pretty hard to get the car high enough or get the engine lift high enough to clear front clip.
I use M12x1.75 x 80mm bolts with washers. Def don’t use the stock bolts from the transmission they are non reusable and have a high chance of snapping.
Hello👋 Quick question. Might sound dumb but Is anyone able to get the “height, width and length” of the N54 with turbos. Height= from bottom of oil pan to top most point over valve cover, Width= from left most side of the engine to the right most side, Length= from flywheel to front most part near the belts, Also “height, width and length” of Transmission Any help would be greatly appreciated😁
Yes can do it that way also if you want to remove it all in one piece. In this instance I just wanted to pull the motor. In a prior video I pulled the whole thing on a automatic car. By far easiest would be just dropping the whole subframe, but only caveat is needing a lift.
@@nOshi2x thanks for the fast reply man! i’m in the process of pulling my motor and trans hopefully by not having to remove the subframe, only thing left is motor mounts. it’s just a auto 335i. my motor blew and cracked the bell housing with it 😂 . just one question tho, is it necessary to drop the power steering and ac compressor? and do you think i can wiggle the trans out without dropping the subframe? i already replaced the transmission once 😂 thanks again!
No prob, you don’t have to drop the power steering or a/c compressor. The only reason I did it was so I don’t have to remove Freon from the system, or drain out the power steering. I guess good time to replace the power steering fluid though. Yes you can pull the engine and trans out without dropping the subframe, as long as the front clip is removed. If you use a engine leveler attachment to your hoist it will make it a whole lot easier, since it’s all about those angles 📐 lol
I did everything you've done and for the life of me I can't get the engine and trans to separate. I took out all the tranny bolts took off the engine mounting bolts and the exhaust literally everything you've done. Am I suppose to take the torque converter off too or does that come with the motor?
This video was on an 335is so don’t have to do that step. If your car is a 335is, I’d recheck everything and if all is good, more than likely your motor is stubborn and have to rock the motor a bit while the transmission is supported and you have the motor connected on the hoist. But if your automatic the only thing holding you up is the torque converter and flywheel bolts, once you remove those you will be golden. In this video at 3:10 is how you remove it. m.ua-cam.com/video/iTw32UEj-0s/v-deo.html
Actually no, had to think about it some more. You should be able to pull it out with the torque converter attached. So more than likely just stuck and need to rock it free
It will be similar but with more steps. The main thing would be disconnecting the front axels and xdrive components. I haven’t done one personally but from doing turbos on them that would be the biggest difference.
This was done on a 335is that comes with the dct transmission so no torque converter. Once you disconnect it, the engine and transmission come apart. If your doing this on a automatic, you can pull it without removing torque converter. ua-cam.com/video/m5cI8lH4IGw/v-deo.html
Do you absolutely have to disconnect the belt and all that I just want to take the whole thing out with everything included Edit: Im at the stage where I need to be unbolting the engine from that trany and the mounts. I feel like that’s the most confusing for me
You can leave the belt on if your Freon and power steering fluids are evacuated. I just disconnect the belt so I can leave the a/c compressor and power steering untouched. Once the engine is supported up top, starting with the starter bolts loosen the trans bolts some can be removed easier from the top or use a couple extensions with a wobble socket head to reach them from under the car. Once that’s done take the engine mount brackets off and you should be good. You can also pull the transmission with the engine. Just would have to disconnect the drive shaft and loosen the shifter connection.
Yea but when lifting just lift and watch carefully to make sure nothing is snagged or something. Also the transmission might not separate easily, sometimes a little shake of the motor and it will loosen.
@@nOshi2x cool and one more question then I’ll let you go How many mounts am I expecting to run into, I have the whole front end gone, and the majority of intake hoses and the manifold all out. So I can see one, also is the engine also bolted to the bottom where the cross member I think it’s called sits, or it’s literally just mounts
Only two mounts. The engine is held in by just those two plus the transmission and it’s mount. You more than likely seeing the driver side mount since it’s the most visible. Especially with the intake off. For the passenger side it’s a bit covered, you might be able to see it more clearly from the bottom. Look where the downpipes protrude from and you will see a bracket going from the engine toward the mount. Once you take off the driver side one you can tackle the passenger side easily.
I feel like that's the worst part of the install lol. But I found using an engine leveler and having the trans front tipped up allows them to mate up easier. As I lower the engine I lower down the transmission in tandem, and it generally slips right in. Most of the time when your dropping it in, it will snag on the top of the firewall area, or the pan is hitting the subframe. Main thing is just have to get your angles right.
@@nOshi2x Honestly the best way is a second set of hands and eyes. This is pretty similar to the way BMW drops their N54s, but they keep 2 techs on each job thats how they get em done so quick.
Haven’t pulled a 328ix, so can’t really give an insightful answer. But the concept should be similar minus having to deal with the front x drive system.
Generally will slide out once unbolted and lift up a little with the hoist. If it doesn’t just rock the motor a little to wiggle it free. Or can also use a pry bar to help separate it by leveraging the spot at the bottom of the between the engine and transmission and has that black flap.
You don’t have to leave the auto or manual in neutral. Only time you’ll switch to neutral is if your disconnecting the driveshaft from the transmission to get access to the bolts or on the auto if your disconnecting transmission from the engine to reach the torque converter bolts.
Can do it that way also. But didn’t want to mess with dct and the cooler lines etc so just left it in. Generally try to leave as little disturbance as possible. If it was a 6 speed def would just pull the engine and transmission out together.
For the transmission. Off rough memory. Remove the bolts holding the driveshaft to the transmission. Will need someone to rotate the drive shaft and pull the ebrake while loosening each bolt (rear should be jacked up to so the wheel can spin). Loosen the accessories on the driver side of the transmission. Get a jack and support the transmission, loosen the transmission support bar at the back of the transmission. Once that is out the way, lower the transmission down a little so you can disconnect the shifter arm to the transmission. Once that’s done should be good to pull everything out. That’s just a rough description, but I’d disconnect the engine stuff first and leave the transmission stuff for last.
Most any engine can fit in an e90 chassis. Just will have to do custom fabrication and testing to get things to work. Unless you go with a documented swap, in which the path to install is more clear.
I like your down to earth method of explaining things, and the way you incurage the viewer to not be afraid to do it for themselves. I wish I had someone like you helping me.
Thanks a lot appreciate it!
Incurage
Pretty sure this is the most detailed video out now! Thanks
Appreciate it!
He’s using a long method.... I have pulled it will everything he took off attached still
I agree
At 16:13 “Clip, found the clip, put the clip back on.” Spitting bars without even trying.
Haha 😂
I'll be pulling my N54 in November, thanks for this guide man. Doing wonders for the E9X community.
No prob hope it will be of help!
you are not alone. i started pulling mine and once i get it pulled im ordering a new engine to complete the swap. Getting the top transmission bolt off with the use of a jackhandle has been a PITA for me since trying it last night but I was tired. Im going to try and make some more progress today. Wishing you luck
@@regulus8319at how many miles did you swap your engine mines at 165xxx i haven’t had any engine problems like that
Great video man. Saving me a lot of trial and error doing my engine removal currently. Much appreciated 💪🏾
Thanks man, glad it was of some help!
Noshi your videos have been incredibly helpful to me, especially your original multi-part series. This is the icing on the cake. Hopefully I'll have something cool to show soon.
Thanks man ! Really appreciate that. Yea man def post it up!
@@nOshi2x My project ran for the first time on Thanksgiving day. I have a video up if you want to see it. The video is not long because it isn't ready to drive yet.
That’s what’s up glad got it fired up!
my old single turbo n54 engine blw up this video helped me a lot for taking it out
Great video bro watching ur video gave me confidence to remove my n52 by myself for the first time. I thought it was going to be hard and complicated but it was a good learning experience saved me a lot of money doing it myself.
Glad it was of help!
Very thorough video bolt sizes, tools, etc. Excellent job, well done, thanks a lot!
Thank you for this video. Videos like these make me feel good about keeping my N54 car forever
Thanks for watching, yea I’ve had mines for 12 years so far no intention of selling it
@@nOshi2x 12 years damn you a OG
Haha yea man been a long minute with this car.
Fantastic video. I need to replace my n52 (snapped timing chain, grenaded piston 2). I have been trying to find somebody who demonstrates the process without pulling the tranny. Brilliant. Thanks so much.
This came in super handy when it came to separating the harness wires at the one ecm plug. Thanks for posting!
No prob, glad it was of help in some way!
Bro you are a savior! my head on my single turbo 135i went KAPUT so I decided to purchase another engine Ill be swapping it soon this video is going to help me so much! does not look so intimidating, you made it sound simple! Thank you!!!!!
Just finished my swap, thanks to you. Its been a long time coming. Just thought I should thank you for the video man. So thank you!!
I want to add, I removed the engine and separated the trans and left the trans in the car. It really wasnt too bad lining it back up. Once i got it onto the motor mounts, the bolts lined right up
No prob glad it was of help in your process!! It’s crazy since some cars it lines up easy and others it’s a struggle lol, in either case happy it worked out smooth
I love how when you undo a bolt you put it right back in the same place after taking it apart. Every video I watch I say that. It’s so much easier everybody else labels a bunch of zip lock bags and its just to much to do the whole project like that. Great video my friend! 🤙
Thanks a lot appreciate it. Yes definitely, saves a lot of time and don’t have to waste zip locks lol.
Love how u put the screws back in place 👍🏾. Detailed video 👌🏾
Thanks 🙏🏽 makes reassembly a whole lot easier. Now to figure out how to stop loosing the 10 mm haha
I used this for my Single turbo build that lost timing. I normally make my own videos whenever I can't find any good information. Amazing video! Definitely won't be making my own version
Thanks a lot appreciate it! Yea, just in the hopes it help someone else doing the same task. Giving you a follow it’s great to see other peoples experiences and different techniques working on these cars
I was just looking at 335i vert blown motor might have to buy it now. Great video
2023 and this video helped me pull out my motor in my E92 ty
Smooth as silk bro, I think you just made me a better tech looking at that execution. Well done 👍👍👍.
Appreciate it glad it was of some use!
Awesome Video, alot of good info, I think my favorite part is you are using harbor freight hand tools and still got the job done, #noexcuses
Yea definitely, just have to get it done with what you have 🙏🏽
so i just got hired at a garage with no professional experience and my first job is removing an n54 from a 335d. i’ve only worked on my 2 honda’s in my garage lol so this should be fun. thanks for the vid
No prob and congrats on the job. They threw a wild one at you. But should go over good. The only swap I did was with a d16y8 and then I did an n54 years later. So should translate good working on the 335d.
This is an amazing video. Thank you. Im sure my friend and i will appreciate you this week with swapping a built low mile n54 into a 335i
How'd the build go?
@@rayzor285 swap went great. Car was a monster. We sold it to a guy that ended up trading it for a shiesty "showcar" e34. So its somewhere in Georgia, now
Awesome video man!
20:05 had me rolling. Pro tip: if you don’t know which way to turn a fastener based on your body’s orientation to it, than you shouldn’t be pulling any engines.
Haha thanks lol good point 😂
Good content brother, I feel like I can do an engine swap now. Very detailed, good job!
Thanks a lot appreciate it!
you’re a maaaan bro finally thanks for that guide
This video helped a ton with me swapping the motor in my 335is E91
Glad it was of help!
@@nOshi2x well I still have to do the work, but this helped a ton. There's a lot of stuff I was planning to pull with the motor that I don't need to.
Ok cool. You can also leave the front clip on to save more time, but I like to take it off for the added room and ease of getting to certain things.
Well done noshi !! Thanks for the detailed explanation
Thanks appreciate it
Nice work and great commentary as always! I just finished swapping the motor in my xi, huge pain having to remove subframe and axles.Do you think it's easier to pull it out with the transmission attached instead of messing with all the extensions?
Thanks! Sorry for the late response. Thats a good question. Most of the time I just pull the motor and transmission out together. In this instance I separated the engine from the transmission in the car since I usually always pull the transmission and engine together. So I was just seeing if going this route would be any quicker. I can now say it would be easier to pull it out as one. The main reason I say that is it can be a pain to mate the transmission and the engine together inside the car.
Thank you for posting this.
great job on this video, good work on nice car! if you have access to a lift and a table to drop the entire front cradle on to its easy to drop everything out in a few hours. It makes everything very easy to work on and is very time efficient.
Thanks a lot! Yes for real man a lift would be the most efficient way. Jack stand life is no fun 😂
Than you for posting this video. I have an E90 N54, That Just broke the timing chain. I Have pulled the valve cover and the intake manifold. I am in the process of removing the head. My quesition would be if you think it is easier to pull the engine from the car or just remove head while still in the vehicle . Thanks again for a great video,
Thanks for viewing, I’d find it easier to just pull the motor, and work on it on a stand. Since the turbos have to be disconnected from the head, and while the head can come off with the motor in the car. With the engine out i find it’s less of a headache to work on it. Also great time to do other preventative maintenance such as oil pan gasket, front and rear main seals, etc.
@@nOshi2x Great Point! I suspect I will be watching your video a few more times in the coming days.
I may reach out to you for some more advice if I get stuck along the way..
Thanks again
@@jessicasteinmuller7246 yea no prob.
Was wondering if you had any tips for clearing the AC line that runs across the front of the car. The Charge Air pipe coming off the turbos. Not sure if I have the clearence as I am lifting the engine. Thanks
I just let lift the motor and slide the compressor down as low as possible without putting strain on the a/c hose and lines and you should be able to lift it right over. One variable that might be different is how high the car is on jack stands and the amount of clearance the engine hoist have to lift the motor out. If thats the case, I would lower the jack stands to their lowest level and you should have more clearance. Since your not doing anything else under the car anymore it’s okay to have it lower. Just remember about supporting the transmission unless your pulling the engine and transmission together.
Hey man you should do a video on how you’ve put it back and how it went, personal opinion in doing it idk man, a lot of questions haha
You’re doing great keep up
Thank you 🙏🏽 yea drove fine no leaks or anything a little smoke initially but cleared up after a couple of miles. Will def post some updates.
Wow bro this is great. Appreciate this so much!! Subscribed for sure
Thanks a lot appreciate it!
Out of curiosity wouldn't it be easier to just drop the entire subframe with engine transmission all in one go? Just disconnect steering shaft, loosen struts, vacuum and cooling lines it should all come down as a unit and reinstall as a unit.
Yes definitely! The only thing is if your work area or car support methods is restrictive it will be sketchy to lift the body of the car high enough pull the whole assembly from underneath. In my case I’m restricted by jack stands and my garage. For example just removing the automatic transmission and having it on the floor under the car there is no room to slide it out from the sides, or the front. So with the subframe and the engine being taller than the transmission , I’d have to lift the body way higher. In either case a lift would make dropping the subframe with motor and transmission a lot easier especially if you have an xi awd model.
Just had 2/3 of my power steering pump bolts break off in the engine block. Instead of fighting it I thought maybe I should just pull the engine since I already have a new set of turbos I need to install. Thanks to your video I now see it is not crazy hard as I thought and should be fine to do. Just one question, On the regular automatic do I need to unbolt the torque converter bolts?
For the torque converter you can leave them or remove it once the motor is off
I will be starting this process on my 135i next week and this video makes it look pretty straight forward. I think I will leave the 6MT attached though, whatchu think? The engine I'm putting in is from a 335xi. Simply swap oil pan and oil pickup, correct?
Yea you can leave the transmission in, saves sometime. Lining up the engine and transmission in the car can be a pain, but as long as you have another person with you it will go smoother. Yes just get a N54 rwd oil pan and you you should be good to go. I haven’t seen the oil pickup tube inside an N54 xi, but getting the oil pick up would save some headaches in case it is oriented different in the rwd version. Quite sure it’s different.
Great vid now time for me to wire it back
Another great video!! Thanks! .......Stop makin it look so easy.
Haha thanks a lot appreciate it
@complexnoshi After doing this yourself with a DCT, it is easier to leave the transmission in like you did in the video or if you had to do it again, would you take the transmission out with the engine?
Great job...did you get it finished?
Great video!
Thank you glad it was of some help
So you already got me saving for the On3 kit! My current engine has 153k on it, i feel like once the ST gets installed the engine will go soon after! I'm using this video to remove my engine when it does go! Hands down the most detail and well explained engine removal! How much more difficult will it be since im AWD?
Thanks a lot appreciate it. Glad it will be of use to you. For AWD I haven’t done one of those before, but I’d say it’s the same steps plus some additional steps. Such as disconnecting front axels and diff. So maybe like 30 more minutes extra. Shouldn’t be to bad
@@nOshi2x Much appreciated bro, keep the content coming💪🏾💯
Thanks very helpful!
Thanks glad it was of help.
Very well done. Thanks
Would it be easier to remove the down pipes before the last bolt on the transmission? Attempting to take a motor out for the first time 😂😂
I find it easier to just leave the downpipe side untouched besides the motor mount and bracket. Once the motor is out can tackle the downpipe and turbo easier, since you’ll have more visibility and access to everything.
Bro you made that look hella easy! great video!
Thanks appreciate it
With my removal my torque converter or gear box stayed attached to my engine, is that ok ? Nothing seems damaged with the gear teeth grooves or whatever. How do I reinstall it to make sure it’s fine? I guess if it lines up rigjt and the trans bolts back tight and flush then it’s fine right? I’m just tryna figure out how u don’t have tori Torque converter attached to ur engine when u don’t even show the part of you removing the Tori’s converter u only showed u removing the transmission bolts
good job brother
Thanks appreciate it!
I think the sludge is power steering replace the pump
Up mi g well explained.
Thanks respect
ur a legend
nice video
Question, i have a 2008 335xi that i need to pull the engine out off
do i have to put in on Neutral or not and why
Thank you
You can leave it in park if automatic or neutral if 6-speed. It’s only if your pulling the transmission along with the engine, where you will need to alternate between park and neutral. Since you will need to rotate the driveshaft to get access to the bolts holding it to the transmission. So neutral to rotate the driveshaft so you can have access to one of the four bolts, and park to keep the driveshaft from spinning. But if just removing the engine, I’ve left it in both park and neutral no difference motor still comes out.
@@nOshi2x just trying to pull then
engine out
Thank you
Can I put 330i engine into 320i body,share a video or disadvantage of doing that kind of swap
Did I miss it or are there no bolt from fly wheel to torque converter? First time working on bmw
I think its a dct tranny
Honestly bro thanks! thought I was going to have to drop the sub from everything I heard
No prob. Yea you can drop the subframe and pull it, or even pull it from the top without disconnecting the front clip. But if on jack stands and in most home garage going to be pretty hard to get the car high enough or get the engine lift high enough to clear front clip.
@@nOshi2x yeah already have it out got the new motor going in today just from what I heard it sounded like it was going to take the full 30 hours
Ohh wow 😯. Nice though tight work!
Thanks!!!
Could you please make a video about hardware you use to get it on the stand ? I wanna be prepared
I use M12x1.75 x 80mm bolts with washers. Def don’t use the stock bolts from the transmission they are non reusable and have a high chance of snapping.
You can leave torque converter bolts and just take those 11 bell housing?
He won’t reply to anyone regarding the torque converter it’s kinda weird
Hello👋
Quick question.
Might sound dumb but
Is anyone able to get the “height, width and length” of the N54 with turbos.
Height= from bottom of oil pan to top most point over valve cover,
Width= from left most side of the engine to the right most side,
Length= from flywheel to front most part near the belts,
Also “height, width and length” of Transmission
Any help would be greatly appreciated😁
wouldn’t it be easier to remove the drive shaft bolts, trans mount and tcm connector then pulling the engine and trans together?
Yes can do it that way also if you want to remove it all in one piece. In this instance I just wanted to pull the motor. In a prior video I pulled the whole thing on a automatic car. By far easiest would be just dropping the whole subframe, but only caveat is needing a lift.
@@nOshi2x thanks for the fast reply man! i’m in the process of pulling my motor and trans hopefully by not having to remove the subframe, only thing left is motor mounts. it’s just a auto 335i. my motor blew and cracked the bell housing with it 😂 . just one question tho, is it necessary to drop the power steering and ac compressor? and do you think i can wiggle the trans out without dropping the subframe? i already replaced the transmission once 😂 thanks again!
No prob, you don’t have to drop the power steering or a/c compressor. The only reason I did it was so I don’t have to remove Freon from the system, or drain out the power steering. I guess good time to replace the power steering fluid though. Yes you can pull the engine and trans out without dropping the subframe, as long as the front clip is removed. If you use a engine leveler attachment to your hoist it will make it a whole lot easier, since it’s all about those angles 📐 lol
You are the Goat!
Nice 👌 video.
Thanks glad it was of help
So there’s no fly wheels bolts ?
Nice!
Noshi could u do a manual N54 engine replacement v
How much would u charge for a job like this
Great bro
Thanks!
Alright so let me back up a minute can I just throw the shifter in neutral and leave the handbrake on?
Yea on the DCT cars. You can do it on automatics and manuals. But that’s a lot of faith to put in your hand brake.
I did everything you've done and for the life of me I can't get the engine and trans to separate. I took out all the tranny bolts took off the engine mounting bolts and the exhaust literally everything you've done. Am I suppose to take the torque converter off too or does that come with the motor?
This video was on an 335is so don’t have to do that step. If your car is a 335is, I’d recheck everything and if all is good, more than likely your motor is stubborn and have to rock the motor a bit while the transmission is supported and you have the motor connected on the hoist. But if your automatic the only thing holding you up is the torque converter and flywheel bolts, once you remove those you will be golden. In this video at 3:10 is how you remove it. m.ua-cam.com/video/iTw32UEj-0s/v-deo.html
Actually no, had to think about it some more. You should be able to pull it out with the torque converter attached. So more than likely just stuck and need to rock it free
Don’t have to take out flywheel bolts?
I have an n51, and want to do an n54 swap, would it fit on my chassis ? it's an e92 2009
Yea the motor itself will fit into the chassis.
How did you remove the flywheel from the toque converter
My engine blew on my 335 x drive. Will the process be the same if it’s all wheel drive? Or are there things I should watch for ?
It will be similar but with more steps. The main thing would be disconnecting the front axels and xdrive components. I haven’t done one personally but from doing turbos on them that would be the biggest difference.
@@nOshi2x hopefully the xdrive won’t make this process more difficult?
I’m attempting to do a 535i Xdrive that has unfortunately locked up!!! Any suggestions on making the job go easier???
Ahh man haven’t done an xdrive 535 before, but would be similar except the additional steps of removing the front axels and such.
What happened to the torque converter bolts??? Where’s the site hole to remove them??
This was done on a 335is that comes with the dct transmission so no torque converter. Once you disconnect it, the engine and transmission come apart. If your doing this on a automatic, you can pull it without removing torque converter. ua-cam.com/video/m5cI8lH4IGw/v-deo.html
Did you have to remove the torque converter bolts?
Not on this car since it’s a DCT equipped car.
Do you absolutely have to disconnect the belt and all that
I just want to take the whole thing out with everything included
Edit: Im at the stage where I need to be unbolting the engine from that trany and the mounts. I feel like that’s the most confusing for me
You can leave the belt on if your Freon and power steering fluids are evacuated. I just disconnect the belt so I can leave the a/c compressor and power steering untouched. Once the engine is supported up top, starting with the starter bolts loosen the trans bolts some can be removed easier from the top or use a couple extensions with a wobble socket head to reach them from under the car. Once that’s done take the engine mount brackets off and you should be good. You can also pull the transmission with the engine. Just would have to disconnect the drive shaft and loosen the shifter connection.
@@nOshi2x so basically just need to undo the trans bolts then the mounts and she’s free
I watched the video but I still have questions 😭
Yea but when lifting just lift and watch carefully to make sure nothing is snagged or something. Also the transmission might not separate easily, sometimes a little shake of the motor and it will loosen.
@@nOshi2x cool and one more question then I’ll let you go
How many mounts am I expecting to run into, I have the whole front end gone, and the majority of intake hoses and the manifold all out. So I can see one, also is the engine also bolted to the bottom where the cross member I think it’s called sits, or it’s literally just mounts
Only two mounts. The engine is held in by just those two plus the transmission and it’s mount. You more than likely seeing the driver side mount since it’s the most visible. Especially with the intake off. For the passenger side it’s a bit covered, you might be able to see it more clearly from the bottom. Look where the downpipes protrude from and you will see a bracket going from the engine toward the mount. Once you take off the driver side one you can tackle the passenger side easily.
bravo, time to get dirty & save myself some $ lol
when you drop the engine back, which is the easy way to line the engine with the trans?
I feel like that's the worst part of the install lol. But I found using an engine leveler and having the trans front tipped up allows them to mate up easier. As I lower the engine I lower down the transmission in tandem, and it generally slips right in. Most of the time when your dropping it in, it will snag on the top of the firewall area, or the pan is hitting the subframe. Main thing is just have to get your angles right.
@@nOshi2x Honestly the best way is a second set of hands and eyes. This is pretty similar to the way BMW drops their N54s, but they keep 2 techs on each job thats how they get em done so quick.
Hey bro I need to swap the motor in my 2010 bmw 328ix awd 6 speed manual transmition, so whats different?
Haven’t pulled a 328ix, so can’t really give an insightful answer. But the concept should be similar minus having to deal with the front x drive system.
how do i separate the engine from the transmission? is there a torque converter? thats the only thing i’m stuck on right now please help asap
Generally will slide out once unbolted and lift up a little with the hoist. If it doesn’t just rock the motor a little to wiggle it free. Or can also use a pry bar to help separate it by leveraging the spot at the bottom of the between the engine and transmission and has that black flap.
nOshi do you have an instagram or soemthing where i can get your number in case i have any questions about the engine removal? i’m new to this car
ig: el_noshi
Do I gotta put the regular n54 335i in nuetral?
You don’t have to leave the auto or manual in neutral. Only time you’ll switch to neutral is if your disconnecting the driveshaft from the transmission to get access to the bolts or on the auto if your disconnecting transmission from the engine to reach the torque converter bolts.
why not pull the engine with the trans?
Can do it that way also. But didn’t want to mess with dct and the cooler lines etc so just left it in. Generally try to leave as little disturbance as possible. If it was a 6 speed def would just pull the engine and transmission out together.
For the transmission. Off rough memory. Remove the bolts holding the driveshaft to the transmission. Will need someone to rotate the drive shaft and pull the ebrake while loosening each bolt (rear should be jacked up to so the wheel can spin). Loosen the accessories on the driver side of the transmission. Get a jack and support the transmission, loosen the transmission support bar at the back of the transmission. Once that is out the way, lower the transmission down a little so you can disconnect the shifter arm to the transmission. Once that’s done should be good to pull everything out. That’s just a rough description, but I’d disconnect the engine stuff first and leave the transmission stuff for last.
@@nOshi2x thanks for your help noshi !
No prob
Thanks for costing me hours telling me to put a 3/8" wrench on a starter bolt. Total shit move dude.
👍🏻
What was wrong with the N54 in the 335is you removed?
The motor is seized up.
What engine fits in e90 316 2007 model? Can we fit for example from the f30 1.6 turbo engine?
Most any engine can fit in an e90 chassis. Just will have to do custom fabrication and testing to get things to work. Unless you go with a documented swap, in which the path to install is more clear.
Great video !