How To Make Saber Cuts - 7 Cuts To The Body
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 січ 2020
- In this video I explain how to make proper saber cuts.
Thanks for watching! As always, please like, share, and subscribe.
I hope these tips bring you improved results!
Filmed, Edited and preformed by Tyler Kvols-Riedler
Support my videos using the following links:
One Time Contribution: @edgetyler
Monthly Subscription: @ler
Purchase My Merchandise: @fencers-edge
Contact me for sponsorship information.
Email: @er333@gmail.com
Phone: (352) 682-2738 - Спорт
Love the vids man. Could you do a parrying for Sabre video? I'd also love to hear details like how it actually happens during the bout, what your looking for to parry, how fast you need to be to get it, to sort of understand it from like, inside an experienced fencers mind like yourself.
.. that's just me thou, would be cool!
I am so happy watching your video sir I love it so much.
Hey coach! Welcome back and a Happy New Year!!
SUPERB!
🤺
It really helped me a lot thank you.
❤❤❤❤loved this video
Thank you so much for the really useful videos. I'm a novice fencer and I can really see an improvement in my fencing from watching your videos and using the drills during practice. Do you do any gym work to help with fencing? I'd really like to have a few gym workouts that would also help with my fencing
Great video!
Just started fencing 1 month ago. Thanks i can use to practice when i don't have school
Such a helpful video, thank you! Please make the arms cut video!
Concerning your pull-through belly cut. I learned something like that 20+ years ago, called the Bandeliero. The idea was to extend at an angle that the opponent couldn't quite parry with a 5 or a 4, since it would be coming down at a 45 degree angle between the two. You would hit pretty much with the flat of the blade on the opponents' top left chest, then flick the wrist down to the bottom right, transcribing a bandelier, aka a bunch of rifle bullets fixed across a leather belt, hung crosswise over the shoulder. Image something that Pancho Villa would wear.
As for squeezing the fingers together to complete the cut. After working with high school students for 20 years, I have learned that they just don't want to do it that way, like I was first taught. Sometimes, especially with the girls, they just don't have the hand strength to do it. So I compromise. I let them do the cuts from the wrist, but not the elbow.
As for the back cut to get around the 4 parry. I have to say I have never seen it before, at any level. And I've never seen it at the world champion level. If you have an example of it we could see, I would appreciate it.
Love your vids.
Oh yes, one of my coaches called that a roll cut.
That reverse cut is basically unusable as an attack against a competent opponent because of the poor reach and speed. It is very useful, however, as a riposte from a seconde parry at close range (though usually aimed at the cheek) and reasonably common at WC level.
Amazing
time to try each of these 100 times
Nice one
Just learned the First three cuts. Now I am prepared for more 🤺
Thanks sir I hope we will meet in olempic.
I do a mix of sport and hema fencing but do really like the F1 speed of the sport version.
큰 도움이 됬습니다~!
Really helpful video. Idont really understand the purpose of the pull through though, what's the advantage to just simply touching?
Awesome video! First time someone explain the proper way to complete the cut.
Tha ks for the video my saber is on the heavy side since its a cheaper replica but I use it for cutting bottles etc. Issue is I'm only used to arming swords, katanas and longswords so I've never used something like this. Everytime I did a traditional slice it just seemed to knock the bottles over or do poor cuts but I never knew about the squeezing of the wrist and not cooking the wrist back. Tried it on some boxes so gonna try it on a bottle tomorrow
This is video specific to sport fencing. It sounds like what you have is a HEMA product, which is pretty much a different sport entirely.
I'm curious if this worked better, though? I'm assuming its kind of applicable still?
Have you ever tried historical heavy saber fencing?
Amazing how far modern fencing is from actual fencing.
Yep. This is why I'm switching to epee and foil. Right of way is one thing, but there's just too many changes to cutting mechanics in sabre. (Moulinets surrender right of way, for example.)
in fact the base technique is the same, as in "actual" fencing, i study the military sabre from XIX century. the main difference is more of a strategical kind rather than technical. In actual fencing people wouldn't lounge at each other hoping to land the first hit and not caring if they receive the afterblow like in sports nowadays. They surprisingly wanted to live.
If you think that the technique shown in the first part of the video doesn't convey enough power to split your skull open with an actual saber, you are gravely mistaken, the second part is questionable, especially the horizontal cut to the stomach when rotating your wrist, that definitely wouldn't work out
@@zerobuddha lol at after blow
i inuitively wondered about this and found out most duels eneded up with two dead ppl . riggt away one guy, the next a week later from the infection.
really valid point zero :P
Thanks!!
Agreed 1:05
very good video
Question: on the point attack, should the arm be extended in a straight line toward your opponent in line with the blade, or at a slight angle? My coach taught me to do point attacks with my arm held across to the right (I'm a right-hander) and blade angled slightly from right to left; you lose a bit of reach, but the angle means your wrist is better protected from wrist cut counter attacks by the guard and angle of your blade
Idk but my coaches teaches me there should be an angle. Keep in mind there are many techniques, there are many ways to cook as there are many ways to fence.
@@nikolaslavov3498 Very true, thanks for the reply! I guess if you go in for a point attack and your opponent is retreating and doesn't look like they'll go for a stop cut (you'd have right of way anyway, so long as they don't parry your blade) a thrust with a straight arm would be preferable to ensure that your attack lands. Just have to determine the situation and make an appropriate decision in a split-second, no different from usual XD
Point in line's main purporse is not to attack with it but rather make your oponent think about more things before he can proceed with his attack. Sure you can score with it but this doesn't happen often espesially in pro games
Nice video!
Is it possible to cut with this technique using a real saber?
Yep, Roworth notes this in his manual, as do Hutton and Barbasetti. However, Roworth does say that the finger powered cuts are difficult to do with heavier sabers and impossible to do with short hilted ones. Makes sense given the weapons of the time and area.
Not really, technically you can perform these techniques, however due to the greater weight of historical weapons compared to olympic sabers, you wouldnt be able to perfrom them as quickly. Additionally the cuts if performed with an actual sword would be shallow and mostly insignificant at best and not even cloth penetrating at worst. Its a different thing, so youd have to adjust the techniques for it to work
real blades are far more effective when using proper techniques which is something olympic fencing does not do.
Great video etc. One question/thing: Could you go more into detail in what scenarios the "advanced" moves are superior to the regular ones? Avoiding the parry is a little bit too mundane for me :D
Do a double backflip to avoid the blade then ;D
Thanks for posting this. I'm a coach as well and enjoy your channel. Why do you think it matters to perform the cuts like this knowing full well that with the electronic scoring box it doesn't really matter what part of the blade makes contact with the target area to get your light on?
The box doesn't care. But bad habits add up. The sabre is balanced and built for you to get touches with the cutting edge, not the flat. Of course there are exceptions. But teaching students to hit with the flat of the blade will make for bad form and weak cuts.
@@donaldbadowski290 I agree but I my question was attempting to lead one more to the historical aspect of why we use the saber in the modrn game. There is a lot of baggage from the historical connection that still to this today, has become dogma but without the obvious reasons as to why it ever existed.
@@esgrimaxativa5175 , a little side bar about that. Did you fence sabre before 2000, when the blade changed to the stiffer type? I was only dabbling in sabre at that time, but got what I'm about to tell you from various sources I trust. Whipover was common in sabre ever since the modern (not historic) sabre came into being, because the blade is so flexible. It got to the point where referees couldn't tell whether to call at attack that was parried "mal-parry" or not. For instance Fencer A attacks to the chest, Fence B takes 4 parry and completely closes the line, but the point of the blade whips around the defenders blade and touches valid. Of course in dry fencing the side judges knew to throw these out and call Attack Parried. But in electric? Making it worse was that Fencer A would purposely attack chest with the flat of the blade, where it is thinner and increase the whipover effect.
In 1998 the FIE sent a directive (not a rule) to the referees, and it goes like this. If you see Fencer A make an attack and Fencer B make a parry riposte, and you are not sure if the attack landed or not, you give it to Fencer B's riposte and call Fencer A's light a remise.
Since then we have the 2000 blades where whipover is less likely, and shorter two-light timings, making it less likely the ref will make a mistake in if it was the attack or remise that landed. Funny thing about that. I've had to explain to students, who where sure their attack landed before the parry, why they don't get the touche.
So this is an example of the tail wagging the dog. Blade, timing and directive changes to get around those who would take advantage of something. You are asking about the historical aspect of it, of course. But fencers taking advantage of whipover is also part of our history.
Last point. Did you see the videos out of Japan, of the foil fencers being tracked with streaks of light? This is a big step up in the technology a referee can use to see what exactly happened. I can see it developing into a way the ref can tell if whipover landed or not.
@@donaldbadowski290 Yeah, I started with those blades back in late 90's. Back of hand was a target area too back then. I think the whipover crap and brush remises that we still see even with 2000 blades and the latest timing change 2016 could be mitigated by an updated verion of the old sensor system but with 2020 technology. My orginal comment was meant to be a bit ironic as we have this whole tradition going back to duels and much of the technique is still related to this but why does it matter anymore? You can hit with the side of the blade and use it as whip if you want. If you can get the light on with the current interpretation of the right of way rules you're good to go. There's also that part in the video where he deals with thrusts and says it is only correct to thrust in pronation. I was taught this as well but never understood why. Why does a line have to be with the hand in pronation and the fingernails down? nothing in the rules says this. Beleieve it or not, I could show you at least a half dozen manuals on saber where thrusts were taught from a variety of hand positions in order to close out the opponent's blade yet the way that is taught now is only in pronation. Kind of strange. There are number of issues with modern saber that when looked at from a historical fencing perspective leaves one wondering how we got here and if any so called correct technique really matters anymore. Just look at the blade we use. Why are they almost always "Y" shaped in cross section for the first two thirds and then flat for the cutting part and always straight when a saber by defenition is a curved sword? How did that happen and why?
@@esgrimaxativa5175 , can't reply on everything you wrote, because I'm exhausted from giving lessons tonight. But I will reply about the pronated hand on the thrust. If we were fencing foil, both right handed, I would be attacking your chest with my thumb at about 1:30 to 2 o'clock, partially supinated, because the foil is bent to get the touche that way. If it was me right handed and you left handed, I would be attacking your chest with my thumb an 9:30 to 10 o'clock. With the sabre, depending on the cant you put on the blade, it is not really required, since you don't have to "fix" the point to score. But, putting the hand in pronation feels more comfortable. Why is that? Well, I don't hold a sabre grip like I do a French grip or an orthopedic (pistol) grip.
Well, you need to change something about this video:
It is not saber cuts, it is OLYMPIC saber cuts, feel the difference
Fencing is a sport. When, how, in this day and age would you be in an actual duel with heavy, sharp sabers?
@@badminton5920 we have another sport, a lot closer to actual dueling with real blade - Hema.
And saber cuts in Hema is a lot closer to real ones.
Olympic swords can't be called so, now it's just a sports equipment.
@@morgulusthetrollslayer6672 That's fine. I've nothing against hema. In Olympic sport fencing the blades are light and flexible so they are safe to bout with, and fencers don't kill each other. What I like about Olympic fencing is the fencers in a bout must respond spontaneously at lightning speed to the opponents attacks and defenses. Also, Olympic fencing has not been turned into a spectator sport for the entertainment of an audience. It has remained pure fencing for the fencers.
@@badminton5920 I also like Olympic fencing as a sport, but not as fencing.
For example - we have Olympic shooting. In real life people still shoot each other, so this sport is closer to reality. And poses and weapons used there are quite specific, and almost fully useless in real gunfight
@@morgulusthetrollslayer6672 I do both mate, the only real issue with fencing equipment and technique is that modern sabre has unreliable parries bc of whipover. Otherwise its honestly all the same shit and while I personally prefer historical sabre to modern sabre (primarily bc the parry mechanics work), I prefer modern epee to old smallsword and epee du combat bc its a better game played by better fencers, and doesnt have the same issue that makes fundamentals weird at a basic level. Take it as someone who does both a fair bit, the differences are largely exaggerated or imagined
Would be fascinated to see how poorly an olympic fencer would perform if they were actually sparring someone that knows the proper way to wield a sword.
The "HEMA adjacent" must be the most obnoxious online clique to exist.
@@matthewpham9525 only for those of you who deny reality little kid
@@justaguyonyoutube
Your first day of high school starts in a few weeks, I hope you have fun.
@@matthewpham9525 lmao awww is that the best you have casual?
@@justaguyonyoutube
Touch grass
funny how good olympic fencing advice is the absolute worst practical fencing advice.
with a real sabre, or swords in general, you hit with the centre of percussion, because a lot of swords have narrow tips, they wont even cut through the clothes of your opponent a lot of the time. with broad tips, they will cut but really poorly compared to a cut done with proper distance.
and just extending your arm isnt enough with a sabre either, rotation = cutting power, and if theres no rotation in the cut at all, then it most likely wont cut, because by the time your strike connects, the blade wont have enough speed to cut across material and follow through.
in real fencing, you should never think "at" the target, and should always think "through" the target, including thrusts, overpenetration is a thing, and you do not want your line of defence stuck inside your opponent when he's following up with a suicide blow. people dont just drop dead in 0.25th of a second with cutting/penetrating instruments.
most likely not duel ending cuts. superficial even. there are three ways to power a cut, with the wrist, the elbow, and the full arm. (you should still use your entire form with each one)
now, because of reach issues, you should almost always (99%) lunge with your cuts too. a lunge isnt a wild extension of your leg into your opponents arms, the lunge is made with a solid extension, so you just straighten your back leg, and then push with your front leg out of the lunge, aka make a recovery.
with the wrist cut, you give the blade rotation, powered by the wrist, and cut that way. the arm remains extended, and the cutting action starts right before the lunge, continues with the lunge, and lands with the lunge, same thing for an elbow cut, except this time its the entire forearm that gives power and rotation. with the full arm, the entire body rotates, engaging the core muscles, and powering the cut with the whole body, this type of cut is the most powerful, and the one that requires a lot more practice, because it's just also the most unnatural way to strike. the wrist cut is the quickest and the body cut is the slowest cut. full body/arm cuts tend to be rare, theyre a lot more common in longsword, because full body engagement is a lot faster and efficient in longsword, with the added leverage, also because its a passing footwork system. everything followed by a recovery and a respective parry/guard (in lunge & recover systems such as sabre, in passing footwork systems its backing passing step & parry).
because (with a one handed sword) moving the sword and giving it rotation all by yourself is harder, you can turn your parries into strikes using hanging guards/parries. this is when the hilt is higher than the blade. basically, you end up parrying further up the blade, which gives some energy that you can use to assist you in the rotation of your sword, accelerating it faster, and exhausting you less, giving you more energy to play with. but these parries are trickier than non-hanging parries. if you think your opponent is coming in really hot, you should probably catch it on the strong(er) of your blade.
when cutting, edge alignment is crucial, not flat hits, the edge should follow the same path as the rotation. if it doesnt, then the blade flexes (not at all as much as an olympic fencing wire thing) upon contact and bounces off target. your sword may also stop dead in its tracks inside your opponent, gifting him a painful opportunity to smite you down for being a newbie.
the cuts should travel in straight lines, scooping cuts may look or feel cool but they mess up your body and cutting mechanics, and result in bad cuts. often this type of cut is a result of overrotation of the core, a mistake extremely common in new fencers.
lastly, sabres do not have false edges.
this is how you actually cut with a sabre:
ua-cam.com/video/c3ngUTZgSpI/v-deo.html
Two things:
1) Who asked?
2) A pretty decent portion of what you wrote in your miniature essay is either wrong, irrelevant, or obvious. I suppose I'll break everything down.
"with a real sabre, or swords in general, you hit with the centre of percussion"
Tip cuts exist.
"because a lot of swords have narrow tips, they wont even cut through the clothes of your opponent a lot of the time. with broad tips, they will cut but really poorly compared to a cut done with proper distance."
???? ??? ??????
What does this even mean?
"and just extending your arm isnt enough with a sabre either"
John Musgrave Waite disagrees, as mentioned in the Matt Easton video that you linked, but didn't watch.
"rotation = cutting power"
No it's not. Simply drawing your hand back and extending provides more than enough velocity to make a good cut at your opponent.
"in real fencing, you should never think "at" the target, and should always think "through" the target"
In a duel to first blood or satisfaction, cutting at the opponent is more than enough. In fact, in the video that you linked but didn't watch, he mostly cuts *at* his target*. In fact, he often cuts in a way that's weaker due to the height of his hand.
"now, because of reach issues, you should almost always (99%) lunge with your cuts too"
Duh?
"hanging guards...basically, you end up parrying further up the blade, which gives some energy that you can use to assist you in the rotation of your sword"
The retracted position of a simple outside/inside guard provides you with enough elastic potential energy to make an effective cut.
"when cutting, edge alignment is crucial, not flat hits"
Also duh?
"lastly, sabres do not have false edges."
Completely false, there is nothing that prevents a saber from having a false edge by any definition. Many Eastern European sabers as well as their descendants have sharpened false edges at least on the upper quarter. collections.royalarmouries.org/battle-of-waterloo/arms-and-armour/type/rac-narrative-469.html
This is a sport bro, not an actual duel to the death
Olympic sabres are not the equivalent of a heavy military sabre, it is a derivative of a duelling sabre, a fundamentally different weapon, which, surprise surprise, looks and handles very similarly to a modern olympic sabre. For all your supposed historical fencing knowledge, I'm surprised you don't know that. So maybe don't crap all over modern fencing without knowing what you're talking about.
@@matthewpham9525 lmao you are so very wrong, tip cuts do next to nothing in real fencing and olympic forms would get you hurt quickly.
@@brynmorticus wrong, a dueling sabre was far more rigid and designed to cut deep.
I am a fencer of bangladesh... i want to contact with you, sir.... how can i do that?
Please give me your other social or facebook account.