Dude, I have been thinking about making one of these for a while and still plan to but this is one of the best designs I’ve seen other than 3x3’custom, all her jigs are amazing 😂 with that said, you are becoming one of my favorite youtubers! Keep up the good work. 👏🏻🤙🏼
@@SpencleyDesignCo sometimes simple is best. And other than wood (which is sounded like you already had some laying around) using the dovetail saved you from spending more on T track. 👍🏻 win win to me.
@@jonathangaliano2617 If you’ve not found it yet, her channel is 3X3Custom. If you’re a new woodworker her earlier videos when she just had basic tools will be most helpful.
Professional woodworkers: This should be the first jig every beginner woodworker makes! Also professional woodworkers: Use all the scrap wood and tools you've accumulated over years of woodworking to make this beginners jig.
I love that every time it’s “luckily, I had some 3/4 Baltic birch lying around” 😅 In Australia not only is it very hard to find, but also massively expensive.
I’m a beginner table saw owner in fact just got it today for Christmas.. I am curious if you don’t have a lot of tools specifically a router what tool could you use to make the gap to collect the saw dust so it doesn’t build up?.. I enjoyed your video and I subbed you up as well.. I look forward to learning and watching more projects of yours.. God bless Craig
You could use your table saw at a 45 degree angle and just keep it from barely sticking out the blade guard. The number 1 thing to remember with wood working (especially when watching YT) is there is always more than one way of doing things 👍🏼
With no thru rails. The sled travels inaccurately a short distance. Wood in a steel rail channel is sloppy wears out. Miter guage" doesn't make any cuts! Wave your hands and arms around while I explain how a long work pc, cut at a 45° wouldn't work at all here. No stop block. No scale to measure any cuts. It's right around useless . This is typical rookie work because I tossed my cheap chop box miter saw. An 18" square to set it up accurately . Nope! How many 45° samples will be cut to see if you're even close? It's a joke. A plywood sled is for lazy budget shops.
I love your videos, Spencley, but I hate the clickbait titles. You can keep the clickbait title but please consider adding the video's actual subject to the title as well. I've got four videos open and they're named: "I don't understand why people make this so difficult?", "I don't know why more people dont do this?", "seriously... dont do it" and "I don't understand why people don't teach this" Not useful titles. 😢
Here's a question, lots of tuber's make projects out of scrap wood, but don't show where the scrap wood came from? It's like it just grows there all by itself?
You already had the "T" track from the old fence, why not just use it??? Wast of money that it!!!!! Haven't seen that hardware so where did you get it??? Where did you find dark CA glue?? I"ve never seen it...
4:50 You wouldn't be tricking us a little bit over there huh? You didn't have that scrap plywood 'just laying around' when you took the plywood for the fences ;P Just saying...
My favorite part is when you said you like to put hard wax on the surface to help it slide better, and then proceeded to put it on the top, where you "don't" want your wood to slide better...but you have 114k subscribers, and I don't even have a channel so.....nice sled still. I may make one that big myself.
Cheese, I subscribed today after watching a number of your videos on UA-cam. I am really impressed by your work ethic, very much like mine. I was an electrical and mechanical contractor for 38 years but I always loved woodworking and now that I am retired I can enjoy it more. Thanks for your insight about BIG MEDIA. OldEddie
Eric, did you realize that you glued the back (or is it the front??) fence to the base when you glued that safety block on. Just something I noticed that apparently no one else did. I do like your videos though.
Why do ALL you guys assume that everyone has unlimited amounts of 'scrap' plywood lying around? Plywood is very expensive here and I only really have pallet wood and recovered barnwood to work with
Olá, parabéns hoje e sempre, o conteúdo do seu vídeo é fantástico sua oficina é fantástica vc é fantástico, teu trabalho é nota 1000 e muito presçiso o erro as vezes um abraço
Couldn't you just square up both fences, so you'll be able to turn the sled around and have more space on the right? You'll have two kerf marks, but it might be the best of both worlds?
New subscriber and new to woodworking. I've been needing to make one of these and your video has me confident that I can actually do it. Thanks for the simple explanation 👍
Please take this comment as love not hate....cool job bro You Americans are so weird with timber work! (Aussie here) We pretty much got rid of rip saws 30 years ago in aus to swap out for panel saws because they're so much better. It seems Europe, U.K. America, Canada, no one ever has a panel saw. Perhaps it's all to do with available space? Surely y'all know of panel saws and how brilliant they can be..... Oh, and, the dumb and dumber thing....classic 🤣
The Microjig dovetail is a big improvement over T track. One of my sleds is about the same size as the one you made here. It's a beast to handle but it will crosscut a panel a little over 24" wide. My most used crosscut sled had a depth capacity of about 10" or so and it's about 20" wide. It so much lighter and easy to handle that I get the big one up on the saw only when I have to. A good portion of my cutting is for smaller work rather than cabinetry and furniture. Your squaring method is easy but it only works if the blade is parallel to the miter slots. If the fence is perpendicular to the miter slots then the cuts will be square even if the blade is off of parallel to the miter slots. The five cut method is accurate even if the blade is off of parallel.
Your are correct! I use to set up CNC machines in the early 80’s so being dead on was no joke. I have carried this into the wood shop using a dial indicator to align the arbor to the miter slots using a calibrated plate instead of the blade. Using a 100 thousands dial indicator I have 1 tenth of 100 thousands difference from from front to back. When I built my miter sled I used the 5 cut method. I want 90 degree cuts if need some other angle I get out the incra miter sled.
Something I learned (the hard way) was to not over-tighten the screws used to secure the t slot bars. That causes the wood to mushroom out and make it too tight to slide
When wooden slides begin to wear or shrink in the winter using the slide screws to expand the slide will remove the slop. Easing them out in the summer performs the same adjustment. I have not used wood for slides, quarter sawn or not, because of the movement due to equilibrium moisture. Instead spending a few dollars on Nylon or Delrin bars. Exact width and thickness are available for online purchase.
I love that you used the Microjig dovetail hardware. Great idea. However, I highly recommend using their router bits. I have used an undersized straight bit to make it easier on the dovetail bit but it just wasn't as good as the Microjig clearance bit and it was not expensive at all.
Hey there, this was a great video. I like your style, instruction method, and of course, the entertainment side of your content (movie add-ins). I love that you keep it real (mistakes happen, and we all have the oh F$&@ moments). And lastly, note, I like how you take care to link up your spoken video and transition flawlessly to your voiceover and vv. This is very cool; it shows you are detail-oriented and IMO something unique most content creators miss. Kudos! 👍🏽 PS: you look a little bit like a young Alexander Skarsgård 😉
I made a block as well, but placed a metal plate on the back as a safety precaution. I'd rather buy a new blade in worst case scenario....can't buy fingers.
Great video. I have been browsing UA-cam for a good sled for my new Delta saw. I watched one guy make his and he stated it took him 15 tries to get the 5 cut right. I used a square on my old sled and had no problems. I am going to try some of the dovetail hardware as well.
I laugh how Murican woodworkers casually all reach for the same ‘cheap offcut’ stock….no less than 3/4” Baltic birch ply! The most expensive sheet ply you can obtain!…even if you CAN find it these days. Meanwhile us poor folk overseas will have to make do with warped, void filled construction ply or OSB.🙄. Almost as casually profligate is the slathering all joints in pints of expensive Titebond, a luxury in UK at nearly two bucks an ounce. American woodworkers bathe in gallons of it ! 13:20 I feel your pain BUT, c’mon…you really can’t figure out how to cut a small dust relief channel in the mating corner without disassembly??? 1) osc multi tool doing a shallow plunge 2) Box cutter held at 45deg in the corner 3) hand drill with 1/4” bit pulled along the joint 4) round rasp bit in a drill pulled along the joint 5) Dremel etc etc Even IF glued it would not be a show stopper, just need some imagination.
To not use the five-cut method of fence adjustment is foolish. The modest effort is well worth it to get ppm accuracy. The math is simple and the only tools needed are a vernier caliper and a set if feeler gauges. The fence should be tested for STRAIGHT before the adjustment process as relying on clamping the fence to a workbench as a form for assuring flatness during the glue up will not, in general, be accurate enough. A purpose built work-board for glue ups will insure that the final state of a glue up will be flat, straight, and planar within the tolerances of the work board, which are as good as the setup of parallelism of the table saw use to construct them.
Where the CODE word so you will read the comment? Getting back to the REAL world. You always talk about how you got ride of your miter saw. Im like mmmmm, what you dont have is place for it in beach for you table saw. where you can take the saw in and out for the long cuts. When I say long, Im talking 4 or more feet on both side of the miter saw. and to where the saw is flat with the beach top. Any way that my take on how to deal with a miter saw and table saw. After all isn't that what the bench is for?
8:24 - "Just a bit" ... moves the sheet basically all the way over. Glad this guy doesn't eye ball his measurements and is big on using actual measuring tools because his language and what he thinks is just a bit doesn't correlate with the reality.
If you don’t have a square, or a square that is not 90 degree angle, you can always use a ew piece of copier paper and a piece of masking tape, just to temp secure the paper to the base.
I came across this excellent video but next time I looked for it I could not find it because it has a daft name. Please name your videos about what they are about!
I’m new to woodworking and I’m trying to decide whether I need a table saw or not. I’m just not sure what you can do on a table saw that you can’t do with other tools, but I have a lot of projects to build.
I do like the do like safety forward consciousness. Keeping fingerers, limbs and toes has always been important to me. Wear safety toed shoes and dont drop heavy things for thoughts wondering about the "toes" reference
Knuckle Puck... sick man. Always surprising to me for some reason when I'm randomly learning things from someone on UA-cam and notice after a handful of videos that they are into the same obscure music that I am. Hardcore isn't all that common among the channels I watch to improve my skills. Thank you a ton for all you do man! Keep up the good work!
Excellent video Eric! I appreciate your honesty and attention to detail. Don't sweat the mistakes, we all make them. Two questions if you have time to reply.... 1) Does have non-locking miter guides limit the cutting capacity (width of board)? As I think about designing my sled I'm wondering if T-shaped guides would make for better performance and enhanced safety (ie. less chance for the sled to pop-up on a wider cut). 2) Is there an easy way to avoid burn marks when making longer rip cuts on a table saw? I seem to get burn marks whenever I make 1-2 second feed stops to grab my push stick. :(
You could also make a stop on the sled, so the blade would not get through your safety block. Finding the right design of such a stop may be tricky - there are several solutions, but they might not be 'ideal' (eg. some would require modifying the table-saw)
The realization he forgot to chamfer the fence and choice words cracked me up. I'm glad to see a youtube woodworker show the reality of woodworking, and not just pretty thumbnails of river tables.
Great looking sled and I think you just sold me on dovetail over T-track. Been watching a lot of videos on both and while T-track isn't without it's perks, it really seems like dovetail is a much more versatile option, as well as much cheaper in the long run as long as you have a router (which I don't yet, but I feel is a much better investment than 30 or whatever feet of T-track, which you also still need a router to install anyway). Thanks!
Personally I like to have some T track parallel to the blade in my crosscut sled base so I can use clamps to hold materials down in certain cases, I also made the pieces next to the blade removable so if for some reason I need to replace them or whatever, it's no big deal, instead of making a whole new sled if you somehow mess up your blade clearance or want a thin kerf blade, but then you're working with 2 layers of plywood for the base and it can get a bit heavy but I think there's a lot of ways you could improve on this design and add some more features than just basic stop blocks. I also think the fence is just too short, I want to be able to cut the full depth of my blade plus have plenty of material above it to keep the fence stiff, if you're cutting material 4" thick this short fence would not be tall enough.
I m new to woodworking and have already make 2 cross sled but it's doesn't smooth enough, i need to push a little bit harder and cutting become difficult , and the bad thing is i don't know what am I doing wrong 😔😔
I did the exact same thing recently building my first sled. Forgetting to put a chamfer on the (rear?) fence. Feels bad man. Had to take it off just as you did.
i don't know why i keep watching crosscut sled builds, i've built plenty of sleds already, but i just keep watching other people make them. it must be asmr to my sawdust filled skull.
Just a quick question: Why did you put the majority of the sled on the side of the blade with the least amount of room for long material? (i.e., the side with a wall limiting sawing longer pieces?)
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and share. I'm going to look to make one this weekend. The red devices on the back of the track, What are these please?
I found you that you do not need the expensive track. Just get a router bit to make the T slots. I have a bit to make the T track for 1/4 bolts. I also have the Microjig dovetail clamps and they are nice, but I still like t track for some things
Рік тому
I've been thinking. What i never seen is a stopper block on the "safety guard block" that prevents to be sawed trough. It would be a extra safety feature although most often we wouldn't cut right though it when the cut of the piece is made.
PLANS: www.spencleydesignco.com/products/crosscut-sled-plans
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL: Patreon.com/SpencleyDesignCo
Love the video!!! I clicked the link but got "you broke my website"!!! just an FYI
Thanks Doug! I’ll update the link
Way over built! Another "monkey see, monkey do" slead.
Thanks for this tutorial, mate..! I'll use it to build my own coming weekend..! Best tregards from The Netherlands.
The dumb & dumber scene got me, so true!
glad you enjoyed it!
It just got my subscription. Great edit.
No kidding lol
I subscribed as soon as he tied that clip with the router sound lol
Oh s#!t.. lmao..
Dude, I have been thinking about making one of these for a while and still plan to but this is one of the best designs I’ve seen other than 3x3’custom, all her jigs are amazing 😂 with that said, you are becoming one of my favorite youtubers! Keep up the good work. 👏🏻🤙🏼
Thanks so much for the support! My design is super simple, but it’s really all that I personally need 😀
@@SpencleyDesignCo sometimes simple is best. And other than wood (which is sounded like you already had some laying around) using the dovetail saved you from spending more on T track. 👍🏻 win win to me.
Exactly! I’ve easily made up for the cost of that bit 10x over with how many tracks I’ve made
Do you have a link to her videos?
@@jonathangaliano2617 If you’ve not found it yet, her channel is 3X3Custom. If you’re a new woodworker her earlier videos when she just had basic tools will be most helpful.
You got a like and a subscribe for the Dumb and Dumber clip alone!
Professional woodworkers: This should be the first jig every beginner woodworker makes!
Also professional woodworkers: Use all the scrap wood and tools you've accumulated over years of woodworking to make this beginners jig.
Clickbait ftw. Long live the algorithm !
I love that every time it’s “luckily, I had some 3/4 Baltic birch lying around” 😅 In Australia not only is it very hard to find, but also massively expensive.
In the UK its easy to find but you need to sell a kidney to buy a sheet.
@@Mr2at Too right! My local supplier quoted £132 a sheet, and I read about someone who ended up paying £500!
Can I have your old crosscut sled? I have the exact same tablesaw
Great video. The block on the back (or front?) of your sled is an outstanding addition to the sled for safety, which should not be overlooked!
The “annoying sound” joke is why I subbed
I’m a beginner table saw owner in fact just got it today for Christmas.. I am curious if you don’t have a lot of tools specifically a router what tool could you use to make the gap to collect the saw dust so it doesn’t build up?.. I enjoyed your video and I subbed you up as well.. I look forward to learning and watching more projects of yours.. God bless
Craig
You could use your table saw at a 45 degree angle and just keep it from barely sticking out the blade guard. The number 1 thing to remember with wood working (especially when watching YT) is there is always more than one way of doing things 👍🏼
Yup block plane is easy cheap and accessible. Sandpaper, spoke, even a pocket knife. It gets fun figuring out things to do in different ways.
With no thru rails. The sled travels inaccurately a short distance. Wood in a steel rail channel is sloppy wears out.
Miter guage" doesn't make any cuts!
Wave your hands and arms around while I explain how a long work pc, cut at a 45° wouldn't work at all here.
No stop block. No scale to measure any cuts. It's right around useless . This is typical rookie work because I tossed my cheap chop box miter saw.
An 18" square to set it up accurately . Nope! How many 45° samples will be cut to see if you're even close? It's a joke. A plywood sled is for lazy budget shops.
I love your videos, Spencley, but I hate the clickbait titles. You can keep the clickbait title but please consider adding the video's actual subject to the title as well. I've got four videos open and they're named: "I don't understand why people make this so difficult?", "I don't know why more people dont do this?", "seriously... dont do it" and "I don't understand why people don't teach this"
Not useful titles. 😢
Here's a question, lots of tuber's make projects out of scrap wood, but don't show where the scrap wood came from? It's like it just grows there all by itself?
You already had the "T" track from the old fence, why not just use it??? Wast of money that it!!!!! Haven't seen that hardware so where did you get it??? Where did you find dark CA glue?? I"ve never seen it...
4:50 You wouldn't be tricking us a little bit over there huh? You didn't have that scrap plywood 'just laying around' when you took the plywood for the fences ;P Just saying...
My favorite part is when you said you like to put hard wax on the surface to help it slide better, and then proceeded to put it on the top, where you "don't" want your wood to slide better...but you have 114k subscribers, and I don't even have a channel so.....nice sled still. I may make one that big myself.
Cheese, I subscribed today after watching a number of your videos on UA-cam. I am really impressed by your work ethic, very much like mine. I was an electrical and mechanical contractor for 38 years but I always loved woodworking and now that I am retired I can enjoy it more. Thanks for your insight about BIG MEDIA.
OldEddie
Eric, did you realize that you glued the back (or is it the front??) fence to the base when you glued that safety block on. Just something I noticed that apparently no one else did. I do like your videos though.
Can I just use my Bosch 305mm mitre saw without all that stuff? You live gorgeous, if you call a perfect piece of expensive birch plywood "a scrap".
Why do ALL you guys assume that everyone has unlimited amounts of 'scrap' plywood lying around? Plywood is very expensive here and I only really have pallet wood and recovered barnwood to work with
That's a great idea putting that block where the blade comes out to keep all your fingers, thanks👍
dumb & dumber 🤣🤣🤣. After seeing you making this sled, I understand why people make this so difficult😂😂
Hey man great video. Appreciate the information. I don’t see where you post you aluminum stop block type and brand? Thanks!
Why emphasize the pivoting rear fence when you attached the rear fence with screws? Wouldn't a pivoting fence be a plus?
Olá, parabéns hoje e sempre, o conteúdo do seu vídeo é fantástico sua oficina é fantástica vc é fantástico, teu trabalho é nota 1000 e muito presçiso o erro as vezes um abraço
Couldn't you just square up both fences, so you'll be able to turn the sled around and have more space on the right? You'll have two kerf marks, but it might be the best of both worlds?
Nice but looks heavy. Does everything have to be solid? Could you Swiss-cheese some of it? Or all of it?
I started out liking your channel, but those clickbait titles which don’t have a payoff are a real bummer.
I dont understand why UA-camrs put deceiving titles and expect us to watch 20 minutes to find out.
15:41 and.. and.. you wanna paint that safety block in signal *red*
Your commentary if freakn hilarious, and great job on the instructions as well, top notch job sir, I will drink a whiskey in your honor!
I’m glad to hear you enjoyed it! What was your favorite part?
@@SpencleyDesignCo hell,. All of it.
Hahaha well I’ve got a lot more videos coming up in the future!
Awesome sled. Where do you get that beautiful plywood with so many plies? My Lowes store plywood has like 3 plies to it.
When you square up the fence, pretty close isn’t what you want. Square it up using the 5 cut method.
Don’t name call, there are others that will call you name even if you don’t ask. Good job
New subscriber and new to woodworking. I've been needing to make one of these and your video has me confident that I can actually do it. Thanks for the simple explanation 👍
That’s awesome, Mike! I’ve got an older video that’s made with even more basic tools too. ua-cam.com/video/mRfr-kNrRK4/v-deo.html
Most annoying sound in the world is the oscillating tool! You can here it from blocks away.
Just bought a new miter saw, and about to Buy a tablesaw, came to realise the miter is not needed anymore-_-
Imho crosscuts sleds are hopelessly un-useful when compared to a really good large miter fence.
Use Ajax Detachable runners, so you can put them wherever you want them.
Where do I get the stop block for the sled?
You lose all credibility starting with a Ryobi saw..Just saying..
Why not title this how to make a tablesaw jig/crusscut sled instead of clickbait bs
Please take this comment as love not hate....cool job bro
You Americans are so weird with timber work! (Aussie here)
We pretty much got rid of rip saws 30 years ago in aus to swap out for panel saws because they're so much better.
It seems Europe, U.K. America, Canada, no one ever has a panel saw. Perhaps it's all to do with available space? Surely y'all know of panel saws and how brilliant they can be.....
Oh, and, the dumb and dumber thing....classic 🤣
big box stores have them to cut big pieces small so the customer can fit them in their Honda Fit
Would love to make one, but I have a Ryobi table saw and our runners are dumb...
Vocal fry is really annoying, especially when a guy is doing it.
The Microjig dovetail is a big improvement over T track. One of my sleds is about the same size as the one you made here. It's a beast to handle but it will crosscut a panel a little over 24" wide. My most used crosscut sled had a depth capacity of about 10" or so and it's about 20" wide. It so much lighter and easy to handle that I get the big one up on the saw only when I have to. A good portion of my cutting is for smaller work rather than cabinetry and furniture. Your squaring method is easy but it only works if the blade is parallel to the miter slots. If the fence is perpendicular to the miter slots then the cuts will be square even if the blade is off of parallel to the miter slots. The five cut method is accurate even if the blade is off of parallel.
Your are correct! I use to set up CNC machines in the early 80’s so being dead on was no joke. I have carried this into the wood shop using a dial indicator to align the arbor to the miter slots using a calibrated plate instead of the blade. Using a 100 thousands dial indicator I have 1 tenth of 100 thousands difference from from front to back. When I built my miter sled I used the 5 cut method.
I want 90 degree cuts if need some other angle I get out the incra miter sled.
Something I learned (the hard way) was to not over-tighten the screws used to secure the t slot bars. That causes the wood to mushroom out and make it too tight to slide
Yup! That’s a great tip
When wooden slides begin to wear or shrink in the winter using the slide screws to expand the slide will remove the slop. Easing them out in the summer performs the same adjustment. I have not used wood for slides, quarter sawn or not, because of the movement due to equilibrium moisture. Instead spending a few dollars on Nylon or Delrin bars. Exact width and thickness are available for online purchase.
You don't have a miter saw? They aren't that expensive you know
i painted the block behind the sled red as a reminder not to put my hands close to the block
just snapped up the plans. So many over engineered cross cut sleds with unnecessary features on YT. This Design is perfect, less is more!!
Thanks so much for the support, Nathaniel! I appreciate ya!
I love that you used the Microjig dovetail hardware. Great idea. However, I highly recommend using their router bits. I have used an undersized straight bit to make it easier on the dovetail bit but it just wasn't as good as the Microjig clearance bit and it was not expensive at all.
I agree I have standard dovetail that would work ok but also have Microjig dovetail Bit. The Microjig dovetail creates a rounded edge at the top
Damn I hate these click bait titles but I realize UA-cam is to blame here.
Good stuff buddy. Please use ear protection, tinnitus is not funny
Hey there, this was a great video. I like your style, instruction method, and of course, the entertainment side of your content (movie add-ins).
I love that you keep it real (mistakes happen, and we all have the oh F$&@ moments). And lastly, note, I like how you take care to link up your spoken video and transition flawlessly to your voiceover and vv. This is very cool; it shows you are detail-oriented and IMO something unique most content creators miss.
Kudos! 👍🏽
PS: you look a little bit like a young Alexander Skarsgård 😉
Thanks so much for the kind words, Emanuel!
Why make it difficult... Uses a table router...
Thanks for this video. After watching some of your other videos and how easily it cut, I was hoping you would show how you made it.
I’m glad it was helpful, Shane!
I made a block as well, but placed a metal plate on the back as a safety precaution. I'd rather buy a new blade in worst case scenario....can't buy fingers.
What does every woodworker overcomplicate?
Great video. I have been browsing UA-cam for a good sled for my new Delta saw. I watched one guy make his and he stated it took him 15 tries to get the 5 cut right. I used a square on my old sled and had no problems. I am going to try some of the dovetail hardware as well.
Thanks Tom!
Спасибо, но какой же ты болтун-говорун!
I laugh how Murican woodworkers casually all reach for the same ‘cheap offcut’ stock….no less than 3/4” Baltic birch ply! The most expensive sheet ply you can obtain!…even if you CAN find it these days. Meanwhile us poor folk overseas will have to make do with warped, void filled construction ply or OSB.🙄. Almost as casually profligate is the slathering all joints in pints of expensive Titebond, a luxury in UK at nearly two bucks an ounce. American woodworkers bathe in gallons of it ! 13:20 I feel your pain BUT, c’mon…you really can’t figure out how to cut a small dust relief channel in the mating corner without disassembly??? 1) osc multi tool doing a shallow plunge 2) Box cutter held at 45deg in the corner 3) hand drill with 1/4” bit pulled along the joint 4) round rasp bit in a drill pulled along the joint 5) Dremel etc etc Even IF glued it would not be a show stopper, just need some imagination.
I have the same Makita sander you do. What did you use to connect it to the shop vac?
Here’s a video I did on that topic a long time ago. It’s not great, but it shows how I handle the issue: ua-cam.com/video/59m52t9-sB0/v-deo.html
What's the deal with the sloping table end at 4:57?
What if theirs only one runner slot on the table saw
A note for any Canadians out there. Watch the shipping costs! CA Glue plus accelerator costs $55US or $74CDN to ship across the border.
I use the ones that come with my saw, they're free.
4:08 is the moment you got me as a subscriber 🤣
To not use the five-cut method of fence adjustment is foolish. The modest effort is well worth it to get ppm accuracy. The math is simple and the only tools needed are a vernier caliper and a set if feeler gauges. The fence should be tested for STRAIGHT before the adjustment process as relying on clamping the fence to a workbench as a form for assuring flatness during the glue up will not, in general, be accurate enough. A purpose built work-board for glue ups will insure that the final state of a glue up will be flat, straight, and planar within the tolerances of the work board, which are as good as the setup of parallelism of the table saw use to construct them.
Where the CODE word so you will read the comment?
Getting back to the REAL world. You always talk about how you got ride of your miter saw. Im like mmmmm, what you dont have is place for it in beach for you table saw. where you can take the saw in and out for the long cuts. When I say long, Im talking 4 or more feet on both side of the miter saw. and to where the saw is flat with the beach top. Any way that my take on how to deal with a miter saw and table saw. After all isn't that what the bench is for?
8:24 - "Just a bit" ... moves the sheet basically all the way over. Glad this guy doesn't eye ball his measurements and is big on using actual measuring tools because his language and what he thinks is just a bit doesn't correlate with the reality.
I have to point out... the most underrated part of this video is that Knuckle Puck t-shirt!
If you don’t have a square, or a square that is not 90 degree angle, you can always use a ew piece of copier paper and a piece of masking tape, just to temp secure the paper to the base.
Bro anybody ever tell u how committed u are? That’s fucking dope
How does a crosscut work on angle cuts
That dumb and dumber excerpt was awesome ...lol However when you forgot about the gap, that is sooo me. (the grinch clip made me laugh )
I came across this excellent video but next time I looked for it I could not find it because it has a daft name. Please name your videos about what they are about!
Nice Dumb and Dumber reference. It really applies to those router cuts, doesn't it?
I’m new to woodworking and I’m trying to decide whether I need a table saw or not. I’m just not sure what you can do on a table saw that you can’t do with other tools, but I have a lot of projects to build.
I do like the do like safety forward consciousness. Keeping fingerers, limbs and toes has always been important to me. Wear safety toed shoes and dont drop heavy things for thoughts wondering about the "toes" reference
Knuckle Puck... sick man. Always surprising to me for some reason when I'm randomly learning things from someone on UA-cam and notice after a handful of videos that they are into the same obscure music that I am. Hardcore isn't all that common among the channels I watch to improve my skills. Thank you a ton for all you do man! Keep up the good work!
Excellent video Eric! I appreciate your honesty and attention to detail. Don't sweat the mistakes, we all make them.
Two questions if you have time to reply....
1) Does have non-locking miter guides limit the cutting capacity (width of board)? As I think about designing my sled I'm wondering if T-shaped guides would make for better performance and enhanced safety (ie. less chance for the sled to pop-up on a wider cut).
2) Is there an easy way to avoid burn marks when making longer rip cuts on a table saw? I seem to get burn marks whenever I make 1-2 second feed stops to grab my push stick. :(
You could also make a stop on the sled, so the blade would not get through your safety block.
Finding the right design of such a stop may be tricky - there are several solutions, but they might not be 'ideal' (eg. some would require modifying the table-saw)
I appreciate your walking into scenes… it’s subtle but it def makes it more dynamic. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
The realization he forgot to chamfer the fence and choice words cracked me up. I'm glad to see a youtube woodworker show the reality of woodworking, and not just pretty thumbnails of river tables.
Great looking sled and I think you just sold me on dovetail over T-track. Been watching a lot of videos on both and while T-track isn't without it's perks, it really seems like dovetail is a much more versatile option, as well as much cheaper in the long run as long as you have a router (which I don't yet, but I feel is a much better investment than 30 or whatever feet of T-track, which you also still need a router to install anyway). Thanks!
Personally I like to have some T track parallel to the blade in my crosscut sled base so I can use clamps to hold materials down in certain cases, I also made the pieces next to the blade removable so if for some reason I need to replace them or whatever, it's no big deal, instead of making a whole new sled if you somehow mess up your blade clearance or want a thin kerf blade, but then you're working with 2 layers of plywood for the base and it can get a bit heavy but I think there's a lot of ways you could improve on this design and add some more features than just basic stop blocks. I also think the fence is just too short, I want to be able to cut the full depth of my blade plus have plenty of material above it to keep the fence stiff, if you're cutting material 4" thick this short fence would not be tall enough.
Why is the hard wax coating controversial? Wouldn't it be controversial not too?
I m new to woodworking and have already make 2 cross sled but it's doesn't smooth enough, i need to push a little bit harder and cutting become difficult , and the bad thing is i don't know what am I doing wrong 😔😔
I did the exact same thing recently building my first sled. Forgetting to put a chamfer on the (rear?) fence. Feels bad man. Had to take it off just as you did.
i don't know why i keep watching crosscut sled builds, i've built plenty of sleds already, but i just keep watching other people make them. it must be asmr to my sawdust filled skull.
Hahaha same here
What model table saw do you have ? And have you done a video on tuning your table saw up? Thank you
Just a quick question:
Why did you put the majority of the sled on the side of the blade with the least amount of room for long material? (i.e., the side with a wall limiting sawing longer pieces?)
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and share. I'm going to look to make one this weekend. The red devices on the back of the track, What are these please?
DUMB N DUMBER CLIP IS SPOT ON LOLLLL
Nice video. I don’t have a use for a sled really as we have a slider, but due to the high quality of the video, I stuck around anyways.
why u don't like the t track ?
My shitty ryobi saw only has 1 miter groove on the top... how can I make this without 2 slots?
I found you that you do not need the expensive track. Just get a router bit to make the T slots. I have a bit to make the T track for 1/4 bolts. I also have the Microjig dovetail clamps and they are nice, but I still like t track for some things
I've been thinking. What i never seen is a stopper block on the "safety guard block" that prevents to be sawed trough. It would be a extra safety feature although most often we wouldn't cut right though it when the cut of the piece is made.
What are you using for stops