Knuckle Puck... sick man. Always surprising to me for some reason when I'm randomly learning things from someone on UA-cam and notice after a handful of videos that they are into the same obscure music that I am. Hardcore isn't all that common among the channels I watch to improve my skills. Thank you a ton for all you do man! Keep up the good work!
Dude, I have been thinking about making one of these for a while and still plan to but this is one of the best designs I’ve seen other than 3x3’custom, all her jigs are amazing 😂 with that said, you are becoming one of my favorite youtubers! Keep up the good work. 👏🏻🤙🏼
@@SpencleyDesignCo sometimes simple is best. And other than wood (which is sounded like you already had some laying around) using the dovetail saved you from spending more on T track. 👍🏻 win win to me.
@@jonathangaliano2617 If you’ve not found it yet, her channel is 3X3Custom. If you’re a new woodworker her earlier videos when she just had basic tools will be most helpful.
The realization he forgot to chamfer the fence and choice words cracked me up. I'm glad to see a youtube woodworker show the reality of woodworking, and not just pretty thumbnails of river tables.
Great video. I have been browsing UA-cam for a good sled for my new Delta saw. I watched one guy make his and he stated it took him 15 tries to get the 5 cut right. I used a square on my old sled and had no problems. I am going to try some of the dovetail hardware as well.
The Microjig dovetail is a big improvement over T track. One of my sleds is about the same size as the one you made here. It's a beast to handle but it will crosscut a panel a little over 24" wide. My most used crosscut sled had a depth capacity of about 10" or so and it's about 20" wide. It so much lighter and easy to handle that I get the big one up on the saw only when I have to. A good portion of my cutting is for smaller work rather than cabinetry and furniture. Your squaring method is easy but it only works if the blade is parallel to the miter slots. If the fence is perpendicular to the miter slots then the cuts will be square even if the blade is off of parallel to the miter slots. The five cut method is accurate even if the blade is off of parallel.
Your are correct! I use to set up CNC machines in the early 80’s so being dead on was no joke. I have carried this into the wood shop using a dial indicator to align the arbor to the miter slots using a calibrated plate instead of the blade. Using a 100 thousands dial indicator I have 1 tenth of 100 thousands difference from from front to back. When I built my miter sled I used the 5 cut method. I want 90 degree cuts if need some other angle I get out the incra miter sled.
Great video, easy build. I look forward to making this crosscut sled as I'm currently in the process of transforming 1 bay of my 2 car garage into my woodshop. Thanks for all you do.
Cheese, I subscribed today after watching a number of your videos on UA-cam. I am really impressed by your work ethic, very much like mine. I was an electrical and mechanical contractor for 38 years but I always loved woodworking and now that I am retired I can enjoy it more. Thanks for your insight about BIG MEDIA. OldEddie
Something I learned (the hard way) was to not over-tighten the screws used to secure the t slot bars. That causes the wood to mushroom out and make it too tight to slide
When wooden slides begin to wear or shrink in the winter using the slide screws to expand the slide will remove the slop. Easing them out in the summer performs the same adjustment. I have not used wood for slides, quarter sawn or not, because of the movement due to equilibrium moisture. Instead spending a few dollars on Nylon or Delrin bars. Exact width and thickness are available for online purchase.
I love that you used the Microjig dovetail hardware. Great idea. However, I highly recommend using their router bits. I have used an undersized straight bit to make it easier on the dovetail bit but it just wasn't as good as the Microjig clearance bit and it was not expensive at all.
New subscriber and new to woodworking. I've been needing to make one of these and your video has me confident that I can actually do it. Thanks for the simple explanation 👍
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and share. I'm going to look to make one this weekend. The red devices on the back of the track, What are these please?
Great video and I love your commentary. After going through a couple saws and attaching/reattaching the runners… my sled was out of square enough to warrant realigning the fence. Like you I glued the blade guard to the fence (and base) which prevented me from being able to adjust the fence with the original pivot screw. I could have backed the fence off by an 1/8th and had enough room to adjust it, but I didn’t want to look at that all time. I’m about to build my next sled and plan on attaching the guard with screws from the inside of the fence.
I love that every time it’s “luckily, I had some 3/4 Baltic birch lying around” 😅 In Australia not only is it very hard to find, but also massively expensive.
I’m new to woodworking and I’m trying to decide whether I need a table saw or not. I’m just not sure what you can do on a table saw that you can’t do with other tools, but I have a lot of projects to build.
Great looking sled and I think you just sold me on dovetail over T-track. Been watching a lot of videos on both and while T-track isn't without it's perks, it really seems like dovetail is a much more versatile option, as well as much cheaper in the long run as long as you have a router (which I don't yet, but I feel is a much better investment than 30 or whatever feet of T-track, which you also still need a router to install anyway). Thanks!
Excellent video Eric! I appreciate your honesty and attention to detail. Don't sweat the mistakes, we all make them. Two questions if you have time to reply.... 1) Does have non-locking miter guides limit the cutting capacity (width of board)? As I think about designing my sled I'm wondering if T-shaped guides would make for better performance and enhanced safety (ie. less chance for the sled to pop-up on a wider cut). 2) Is there an easy way to avoid burn marks when making longer rip cuts on a table saw? I seem to get burn marks whenever I make 1-2 second feed stops to grab my push stick. :(
I did the exact same thing recently building my first sled. Forgetting to put a chamfer on the (rear?) fence. Feels bad man. Had to take it off just as you did.
Great video, love the sled. Just one note - it's accelerator for the CA glue, NOT activator. "Activator" implies that it's needed for the glue to work, when in fact, all it does is accelerate the curing process.
Correct, and it only takes a tiny amount of accelerator. Those of us that build wooden radio controlled airplanes have discovered that the accelerator makes CA even more brittle than it already is. The black CA used in this video is probably rubberized or toughened CA which is less brittle than most.
I’m a beginner table saw owner in fact just got it today for Christmas.. I am curious if you don’t have a lot of tools specifically a router what tool could you use to make the gap to collect the saw dust so it doesn’t build up?.. I enjoyed your video and I subbed you up as well.. I look forward to learning and watching more projects of yours.. God bless Craig
You could use your table saw at a 45 degree angle and just keep it from barely sticking out the blade guard. The number 1 thing to remember with wood working (especially when watching YT) is there is always more than one way of doing things 👍🏼
I do like the do like safety forward consciousness. Keeping fingerers, limbs and toes has always been important to me. Wear safety toed shoes and dont drop heavy things for thoughts wondering about the "toes" reference
Here's a question, lots of tuber's make projects out of scrap wood, but don't show where the scrap wood came from? It's like it just grows there all by itself?
Personally I like to have some T track parallel to the blade in my crosscut sled base so I can use clamps to hold materials down in certain cases, I also made the pieces next to the blade removable so if for some reason I need to replace them or whatever, it's no big deal, instead of making a whole new sled if you somehow mess up your blade clearance or want a thin kerf blade, but then you're working with 2 layers of plywood for the base and it can get a bit heavy but I think there's a lot of ways you could improve on this design and add some more features than just basic stop blocks. I also think the fence is just too short, I want to be able to cut the full depth of my blade plus have plenty of material above it to keep the fence stiff, if you're cutting material 4" thick this short fence would not be tall enough.
You could also make a stop on the sled, so the blade would not get through your safety block. Finding the right design of such a stop may be tricky - there are several solutions, but they might not be 'ideal' (eg. some would require modifying the table-saw)
My favorite part is when you said you like to put hard wax on the surface to help it slide better, and then proceeded to put it on the top, where you "don't" want your wood to slide better...but you have 114k subscribers, and I don't even have a channel so.....nice sled still. I may make one that big myself.
Great video and plan. I've been planning to make one without overcomplicating it. Have you done or could you do a video on trueing the fence? Long cuts often get uneven from one end to the other for me :/
Very nice video! Nice music. Glad I watched. Straight forward. You were fun but still to the point. Excellent work. I also made a fat block for the cut through place on my smaller sled and then to be darn sure I never lost a thumb I screwed a piece of plate steel to the back of the block. Would rather ruin a blade than lose a finger. Again very nice video. Thanks for not being vulgar like so many are.
Would it have been a good idea on the “sawdust chamfer” to leave an inch or so on each side of the blade? Wouldn’t this help reduce tear out on the back edge of the cut piece?
Professional woodworkers: This should be the first jig every beginner woodworker makes! Also professional woodworkers: Use all the scrap wood and tools you've accumulated over years of woodworking to make this beginners jig.
I refer to the fences as outfeed side fence and infeed side fence
Рік тому
I've been thinking. What i never seen is a stopper block on the "safety guard block" that prevents to be sawed trough. It would be a extra safety feature although most often we wouldn't cut right though it when the cut of the piece is made.
If you don’t have a square, or a square that is not 90 degree angle, you can always use a ew piece of copier paper and a piece of masking tape, just to temp secure the paper to the base.
I found you that you do not need the expensive track. Just get a router bit to make the T slots. I have a bit to make the T track for 1/4 bolts. I also have the Microjig dovetail clamps and they are nice, but I still like t track for some things
I have to move some of my tools outside when I need to cut. My table saw is small and I do not have an outfeed table (or infeed table for that matter). Is it possible (and safe!) to build a sled or am I better off using my circular saw and jigs? Cutting on the ground has it's own challenges. Keep in mind I'm not building furniture or heirlooms here but I would like to have 90 degree cuts rather than an _average_ of 90 degree cuts.
Just a quick question: Why did you put the majority of the sled on the side of the blade with the least amount of room for long material? (i.e., the side with a wall limiting sawing longer pieces?)
Hey there, this was a great video. I like your style, instruction method, and of course, the entertainment side of your content (movie add-ins). I love that you keep it real (mistakes happen, and we all have the oh F$&@ moments). And lastly, note, I like how you take care to link up your spoken video and transition flawlessly to your voiceover and vv. This is very cool; it shows you are detail-oriented and IMO something unique most content creators miss. Kudos! 👍🏽 PS: you look a little bit like a young Alexander Skarsgård 😉
I’m going to build one of these, but my table saw has only one miter gauge slot, not two. Also, I discovered that the blade is not in perfect alignment with the rip fence. After I cut a long piece of wood, the top width is about ⅛” wider than the bottom width. And the rip fence is not ajustable in any way. I’m wondering if making a crosscut sled with only one miter gauge slot rail is enough?
@@David-hm9ic Yes, it's made of different species of wood, but plywood itself is not categorized as species, perhaps types. I just found the expression funny since I had never heard it before. Thanks for replying.
I don't see where you have listed the red stop block that is connected to your dovetail hardware. I'd like to purchase but don't know what it is called?
Olá, parabéns hoje e sempre, o conteúdo do seu vídeo é fantástico sua oficina é fantástica vc é fantástico, teu trabalho é nota 1000 e muito presçiso o erro as vezes um abraço
PLANS: www.spencleydesignco.com/products/crosscut-sled-plans
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL: Patreon.com/SpencleyDesignCo
Love the video!!! I clicked the link but got "you broke my website"!!! just an FYI
Thanks Doug! I’ll update the link
Way over built! Another "monkey see, monkey do" slead.
Thanks for this tutorial, mate..! I'll use it to build my own coming weekend..! Best tregards from The Netherlands.
The dumb & dumber scene got me, so true!
glad you enjoyed it!
It just got my subscription. Great edit.
No kidding lol
I subscribed as soon as he tied that clip with the router sound lol
Oh s#!t.. lmao..
Great video. The block on the back (or front?) of your sled is an outstanding addition to the sled for safety, which should not be overlooked!
I appreciate your walking into scenes… it’s subtle but it def makes it more dynamic. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
The “annoying sound” joke is why I subbed
That's a great idea putting that block where the blade comes out to keep all your fingers, thanks👍
Knuckle Puck... sick man. Always surprising to me for some reason when I'm randomly learning things from someone on UA-cam and notice after a handful of videos that they are into the same obscure music that I am. Hardcore isn't all that common among the channels I watch to improve my skills. Thank you a ton for all you do man! Keep up the good work!
“Wanna hear the most annoying sound in the world?” Seamless transition and it had me dying
Dude, I have been thinking about making one of these for a while and still plan to but this is one of the best designs I’ve seen other than 3x3’custom, all her jigs are amazing 😂 with that said, you are becoming one of my favorite youtubers! Keep up the good work. 👏🏻🤙🏼
Thanks so much for the support! My design is super simple, but it’s really all that I personally need 😀
@@SpencleyDesignCo sometimes simple is best. And other than wood (which is sounded like you already had some laying around) using the dovetail saved you from spending more on T track. 👍🏻 win win to me.
Exactly! I’ve easily made up for the cost of that bit 10x over with how many tracks I’ve made
Do you have a link to her videos?
@@jonathangaliano2617 If you’ve not found it yet, her channel is 3X3Custom. If you’re a new woodworker her earlier videos when she just had basic tools will be most helpful.
The realization he forgot to chamfer the fence and choice words cracked me up. I'm glad to see a youtube woodworker show the reality of woodworking, and not just pretty thumbnails of river tables.
Great video. I have been browsing UA-cam for a good sled for my new Delta saw. I watched one guy make his and he stated it took him 15 tries to get the 5 cut right. I used a square on my old sled and had no problems. I am going to try some of the dovetail hardware as well.
Thanks Tom!
The Microjig dovetail is a big improvement over T track. One of my sleds is about the same size as the one you made here. It's a beast to handle but it will crosscut a panel a little over 24" wide. My most used crosscut sled had a depth capacity of about 10" or so and it's about 20" wide. It so much lighter and easy to handle that I get the big one up on the saw only when I have to. A good portion of my cutting is for smaller work rather than cabinetry and furniture. Your squaring method is easy but it only works if the blade is parallel to the miter slots. If the fence is perpendicular to the miter slots then the cuts will be square even if the blade is off of parallel to the miter slots. The five cut method is accurate even if the blade is off of parallel.
Your are correct! I use to set up CNC machines in the early 80’s so being dead on was no joke. I have carried this into the wood shop using a dial indicator to align the arbor to the miter slots using a calibrated plate instead of the blade. Using a 100 thousands dial indicator I have 1 tenth of 100 thousands difference from from front to back. When I built my miter sled I used the 5 cut method.
I want 90 degree cuts if need some other angle I get out the incra miter sled.
Great video, easy build. I look forward to making this crosscut sled as I'm currently in the process of transforming 1 bay of my 2 car garage into my woodshop. Thanks for all you do.
Cheese, I subscribed today after watching a number of your videos on UA-cam. I am really impressed by your work ethic, very much like mine. I was an electrical and mechanical contractor for 38 years but I always loved woodworking and now that I am retired I can enjoy it more. Thanks for your insight about BIG MEDIA.
OldEddie
Something I learned (the hard way) was to not over-tighten the screws used to secure the t slot bars. That causes the wood to mushroom out and make it too tight to slide
Yup! That’s a great tip
When wooden slides begin to wear or shrink in the winter using the slide screws to expand the slide will remove the slop. Easing them out in the summer performs the same adjustment. I have not used wood for slides, quarter sawn or not, because of the movement due to equilibrium moisture. Instead spending a few dollars on Nylon or Delrin bars. Exact width and thickness are available for online purchase.
A note for any Canadians out there. Watch the shipping costs! CA Glue plus accelerator costs $55US or $74CDN to ship across the border.
Simple and to the point
That dumb and dumber excerpt was awesome ...lol However when you forgot about the gap, that is sooo me. (the grinch clip made me laugh )
I have to point out... the most underrated part of this video is that Knuckle Puck t-shirt!
You got a like and a subscribe for the Dumb and Dumber clip alone!
I love that you used the Microjig dovetail hardware. Great idea. However, I highly recommend using their router bits. I have used an undersized straight bit to make it easier on the dovetail bit but it just wasn't as good as the Microjig clearance bit and it was not expensive at all.
I agree I have standard dovetail that would work ok but also have Microjig dovetail Bit. The Microjig dovetail creates a rounded edge at the top
New subscriber and new to woodworking. I've been needing to make one of these and your video has me confident that I can actually do it. Thanks for the simple explanation 👍
That’s awesome, Mike! I’ve got an older video that’s made with even more basic tools too. ua-cam.com/video/mRfr-kNrRK4/v-deo.html
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and share. I'm going to look to make one this weekend. The red devices on the back of the track, What are these please?
The safety block is terrific. I'm a beeswax and mineral oil fan for a foodsafe finish and ease of maintenance.
A dumb and dumber clip bit had me rollin, laughing, prime editing! Lol
Great video and I love your commentary. After going through a couple saws and attaching/reattaching the runners… my sled was out of square enough to warrant realigning the fence.
Like you I glued the blade guard to the fence (and base) which prevented me from being able to adjust the fence with the original pivot screw. I could have backed the fence off by an 1/8th and had enough room to adjust it, but I didn’t want to look at that all time.
I’m about to build my next sled and plan on attaching the guard with screws from the inside of the fence.
This is by far the easiest sled to build that I have seen. Thank you. New subscriber and I am enjoying your content.
great job. I appreciate your attention to detail...
I love that every time it’s “luckily, I had some 3/4 Baltic birch lying around” 😅 In Australia not only is it very hard to find, but also massively expensive.
In the UK its easy to find but you need to sell a kidney to buy a sheet.
@@Mr2at Too right! My local supplier quoted £132 a sheet, and I read about someone who ended up paying £500!
I’m new to woodworking and I’m trying to decide whether I need a table saw or not. I’m just not sure what you can do on a table saw that you can’t do with other tools, but I have a lot of projects to build.
Use Ajax Detachable runners, so you can put them wherever you want them.
Thanks for this video. After watching some of your other videos and how easily it cut, I was hoping you would show how you made it.
I’m glad it was helpful, Shane!
Great looking sled and I think you just sold me on dovetail over T-track. Been watching a lot of videos on both and while T-track isn't without it's perks, it really seems like dovetail is a much more versatile option, as well as much cheaper in the long run as long as you have a router (which I don't yet, but I feel is a much better investment than 30 or whatever feet of T-track, which you also still need a router to install anyway). Thanks!
4:08 is the moment you got me as a subscriber 🤣
I really like the way you explain everything. Great job !!
Yay for plans in real units (metric) ! ❤️
Excellent video Eric! I appreciate your honesty and attention to detail. Don't sweat the mistakes, we all make them.
Two questions if you have time to reply....
1) Does have non-locking miter guides limit the cutting capacity (width of board)? As I think about designing my sled I'm wondering if T-shaped guides would make for better performance and enhanced safety (ie. less chance for the sled to pop-up on a wider cut).
2) Is there an easy way to avoid burn marks when making longer rip cuts on a table saw? I seem to get burn marks whenever I make 1-2 second feed stops to grab my push stick. :(
I made one similar to this today. Thanks for this video.
I did the exact same thing recently building my first sled. Forgetting to put a chamfer on the (rear?) fence. Feels bad man. Had to take it off just as you did.
Great video, love the sled. Just one note - it's accelerator for the CA glue, NOT activator. "Activator" implies that it's needed for the glue to work, when in fact, all it does is accelerate the curing process.
Correct, and it only takes a tiny amount of accelerator. Those of us that build wooden radio controlled airplanes have discovered that the accelerator makes CA even more brittle than it already is. The black CA used in this video is probably rubberized or toughened CA which is less brittle than most.
I’m a beginner table saw owner in fact just got it today for Christmas.. I am curious if you don’t have a lot of tools specifically a router what tool could you use to make the gap to collect the saw dust so it doesn’t build up?.. I enjoyed your video and I subbed you up as well.. I look forward to learning and watching more projects of yours.. God bless
Craig
You could use your table saw at a 45 degree angle and just keep it from barely sticking out the blade guard. The number 1 thing to remember with wood working (especially when watching YT) is there is always more than one way of doing things 👍🏼
Yup block plane is easy cheap and accessible. Sandpaper, spoke, even a pocket knife. It gets fun figuring out things to do in different ways.
Hey man great video. Appreciate the information. I don’t see where you post you aluminum stop block type and brand? Thanks!
Very nice, I need to rebuild my slide, you've inspired me.
just snapped up the plans. So many over engineered cross cut sleds with unnecessary features on YT. This Design is perfect, less is more!!
Thanks so much for the support, Nathaniel! I appreciate ya!
If I had all the tools you use here, I would already be a pro.
I do like the do like safety forward consciousness. Keeping fingerers, limbs and toes has always been important to me. Wear safety toed shoes and dont drop heavy things for thoughts wondering about the "toes" reference
You have changed wood working forever. I may never work with or even look at a router table the same agin.
Nice but looks heavy. Does everything have to be solid? Could you Swiss-cheese some of it? Or all of it?
Awesome sled. Where do you get that beautiful plywood with so many plies? My Lowes store plywood has like 3 plies to it.
When you square up the fence, pretty close isn’t what you want. Square it up using the 5 cut method.
What model table saw do you have ? And have you done a video on tuning your table saw up? Thank you
The back fence also serves as a counterbalance to the weight of the front fence.
Here's a question, lots of tuber's make projects out of scrap wood, but don't show where the scrap wood came from? It's like it just grows there all by itself?
This is a great video. Thank you.
Bro anybody ever tell u how committed u are? That’s fucking dope
Your commentary if freakn hilarious, and great job on the instructions as well, top notch job sir, I will drink a whiskey in your honor!
I’m glad to hear you enjoyed it! What was your favorite part?
@@SpencleyDesignCo hell,. All of it.
Hahaha well I’ve got a lot more videos coming up in the future!
Personally I like to have some T track parallel to the blade in my crosscut sled base so I can use clamps to hold materials down in certain cases, I also made the pieces next to the blade removable so if for some reason I need to replace them or whatever, it's no big deal, instead of making a whole new sled if you somehow mess up your blade clearance or want a thin kerf blade, but then you're working with 2 layers of plywood for the base and it can get a bit heavy but I think there's a lot of ways you could improve on this design and add some more features than just basic stop blocks. I also think the fence is just too short, I want to be able to cut the full depth of my blade plus have plenty of material above it to keep the fence stiff, if you're cutting material 4" thick this short fence would not be tall enough.
You could also make a stop on the sled, so the blade would not get through your safety block.
Finding the right design of such a stop may be tricky - there are several solutions, but they might not be 'ideal' (eg. some would require modifying the table-saw)
My favorite part is when you said you like to put hard wax on the surface to help it slide better, and then proceeded to put it on the top, where you "don't" want your wood to slide better...but you have 114k subscribers, and I don't even have a channel so.....nice sled still. I may make one that big myself.
Great video and plan. I've been planning to make one without overcomplicating it. Have you done or could you do a video on trueing the fence? Long cuts often get uneven from one end to the other for me :/
Why emphasize the pivoting rear fence when you attached the rear fence with screws? Wouldn't a pivoting fence be a plus?
Don’t name call, there are others that will call you name even if you don’t ask. Good job
Where do I get the stop block for the sled?
Very nice video! Nice music. Glad I watched. Straight forward. You were fun but still to the point. Excellent work. I also made a fat block for the cut through place on my smaller sled and then to be darn sure I never lost a thumb I screwed a piece of plate steel to the back of the block. Would rather ruin a blade than lose a finger. Again very nice video. Thanks for not being vulgar like so many are.
Would it have been a good idea on the “sawdust chamfer” to leave an inch or so on each side of the blade? Wouldn’t this help reduce tear out on the back edge of the cut piece?
Professional woodworkers: This should be the first jig every beginner woodworker makes!
Also professional woodworkers: Use all the scrap wood and tools you've accumulated over years of woodworking to make this beginners jig.
Clickbait ftw. Long live the algorithm !
I refer to the fences as outfeed side fence and infeed side fence
I've been thinking. What i never seen is a stopper block on the "safety guard block" that prevents to be sawed trough. It would be a extra safety feature although most often we wouldn't cut right though it when the cut of the piece is made.
Nice video. I don’t have a use for a sled really as we have a slider, but due to the high quality of the video, I stuck around anyways.
If you don’t have a square, or a square that is not 90 degree angle, you can always use a ew piece of copier paper and a piece of masking tape, just to temp secure the paper to the base.
I found you that you do not need the expensive track. Just get a router bit to make the T slots. I have a bit to make the T track for 1/4 bolts. I also have the Microjig dovetail clamps and they are nice, but I still like t track for some things
Can I have your old crosscut sled? I have the exact same tablesaw
Good job!
What are you using for stops
I really enjoy your builds
How does a crosscut work on angle cuts
I have the same Makita sander you do. What did you use to connect it to the shop vac?
Here’s a video I did on that topic a long time ago. It’s not great, but it shows how I handle the issue: ua-cam.com/video/59m52t9-sB0/v-deo.html
This is the one i'm going for!
Nicely done!
Thanks for checking out the video, J!
I'm making this.. great job man
Thanks, John!
Nice Dumb and Dumber reference. It really applies to those router cuts, doesn't it?
O state! Go buckeyes!
15:41 and.. and.. you wanna paint that safety block in signal *red*
Just found your videos! You do a great job!
Thanks, Ran! I appreciate the support!
sick sled sir!
Thank you very much, Brandon! Anything you would’ve added?
@@SpencleyDesignCo built in measuring tape in couple with your flip up stop block would be handy
I thought about that, but with the way this specific stop block works, the tape wouldn’t work
I have to move some of my tools outside when I need to cut. My table saw is small and I do not have an outfeed table (or infeed table for that matter). Is it possible (and safe!) to build a sled or am I better off using my circular saw and jigs? Cutting on the ground has it's own challenges. Keep in mind I'm not building furniture or heirlooms here but I would like to have 90 degree cuts rather than an _average_ of 90 degree cuts.
You can absolutely build a sled! Check out some of my very very first UA-cam videos. I started all of this out of the parking lot of my apartment
in europa we have sliding table saws those are the best on my opinion
Just a quick question:
Why did you put the majority of the sled on the side of the blade with the least amount of room for long material? (i.e., the side with a wall limiting sawing longer pieces?)
Hey there, this was a great video. I like your style, instruction method, and of course, the entertainment side of your content (movie add-ins).
I love that you keep it real (mistakes happen, and we all have the oh F$&@ moments). And lastly, note, I like how you take care to link up your spoken video and transition flawlessly to your voiceover and vv. This is very cool; it shows you are detail-oriented and IMO something unique most content creators miss.
Kudos! 👍🏽
PS: you look a little bit like a young Alexander Skarsgård 😉
Thanks so much for the kind words, Emanuel!
Another great video!
I’m going to build one of these, but my table saw has only one miter gauge slot, not two. Also, I discovered that the blade is not in perfect alignment with the rip fence. After I cut a long piece of wood, the top width is about ⅛” wider than the bottom width. And the rip fence is not ajustable in any way. I’m wondering if making a crosscut sled with only one miter gauge slot rail is enough?
The saw carriage underneath is probably adjustable.
i painted the block behind the sled red as a reminder not to put my hands close to the block
Be a good idea to make a stop so the blade can't come threw the back
"Species of plywood" That was funny
Yellow pine, fir, birch, poplar and hoop pine are all among the species of wood used for plywood cores regardless of the veneer layers.
@@David-hm9ic Yes, it's made of different species of wood, but plywood itself is not categorized as species, perhaps types. I just found the expression funny since I had never heard it before. Thanks for replying.
GO BLUE!!!
I use the ones that come with my saw, they're free.
Thanks
I don't see where you have listed the red stop block that is connected to your dovetail hardware. I'd like to purchase but don't know what it is called?
It’s free kmtools.com
Olá, parabéns hoje e sempre, o conteúdo do seu vídeo é fantástico sua oficina é fantástica vc é fantástico, teu trabalho é nota 1000 e muito presçiso o erro as vezes um abraço
Would love to make one, but I have a Ryobi table saw and our runners are dumb...