Converting a Delta Wood Bandsaw to Metal
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- Опубліковано 25 гру 2018
- Here we convert a Delta 14" upright/vertical bandsaw to cut metal. Slow it down using the jack shaft method.
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This is my opinion so take it for what's worth. There are a couple of things that are likely the cause of the vibration. First is pulley and shaft alignment. The pulleys not only need to be aligned axially the shafts also need to be parallel to each other. I realize the owner here is dealing with a light gage steel stand which does not help. Also the pulleys appear to have axial run-out. Take the belts off and indicate the vee groove for axial and radial run-out*. The frequency of the vibration looks to be around 2x the pulley rpm. Also check that the motor does not have a "soft foot". That is when one of the motor mounting pads is not in contact with the stand when the bolts are loose. Also leave the blade off to see if the bottom and top wheels are contributing to the problem. New tires on the wheels can also help. Another factor is just how straight the blade is welded. Also a 1/4 metal cutting blade should be more than enough. With 45 years experience working with metal cutting equipment from band saws to boring mills to surface and cylindrical grinding I never used a wider blade than 1/4 if at all possible. I welded my own blades and did not let anybody else use them.
*those diecast pulleys are not exactly precision made items.
One year since I posted here, but your blade has a bad weld causing it to move in and out away from the work, as you can see. It's probably long since worn out by now, so no big deal. I still like the jackshaft arrangement, very professional.
I think you are right. I got the blade from McMaster with a misaligned weld. I think that this is causing some vibration. It's still sharp as it is a bi-metal blade and I don't use it much. Someday I will replace it.
I came up with a similar answer except did 1.75" and 6.0" on both runs. This yields about 148fpm and allows you to use the old belt guard with one small modification. I did drop the motor lower in the case and blocked up the saw about 1.5" to give the belts a bit more contact.
I really enjoyed your video. Great trouble shooting. I wish I would have seen that PS book years ago.
Would have helped greatly.
Thanks, I have learned much watching your channel
I tried using one of those weird universal link belt from harbor freight. They don't develop a memory if the belt is left in the same position on a small roller causing a " bump" type of vibration.
It worked very well. I was suprised.
With a blade with less toothcount you would get even better cutting results. People often make the mistake in thinking that they need those kind of hacksaw like blades when cutting metal... And alingment of the pulleys is key, I often align pulleys of all sorts at my job and we use a laser to align them, not that you need a laser but proper alignment will make both the motor and bearing and also the blade last longer
Link belts are great for reducing vibration. Harbor freight has them and best part is they are adjustable
Thought about getting one - will have to try!
Doug looks like the pillow block shaft has a slot all the way across it to secure the pulleys - Yes? No slot would not work?
Have you checked the run out on the shafts and the pillow blocks?
There are V belts for fractional applications and automotive belts for higher HP applications and power belts the green ones, for industrial equipment like mowers and tractors. They have different shaped sections so are not interchangeable with fractional HP pulleys.
28:02 that blade isn't tracking front to back - either it is damaged or the top wheel is bent/or tilted or both
Thank you for your reply! Great Job. One last question. What keeps the shaft in place that is used for the pillow blocks?
I believe the pillow blocks have set screws that keep the shaft in place.
Have you considered looking at your feet on the bandsaw? If they are rubber make sure you have the same pressure on each one. Make sure each foot is contacting the cement or floor properly. If you are on a wood floor then you may have to put a steel plate under your bandsaw.
Do you have a link where you purchased the pulleys and pillow blocks
Doug. Is there a reason that your cross bracing for your Pillow blocks etc. uses angle iron on the back and flat bar stock on the front? Just what you had laying around?
I'm pretty sure that I used angle iron to support the pillow blocks on the back and on the front. The front one is just mirrored to the back one so you can't see the vertical flange. I think. In any event, your are right that I just had the angle iron laying around.
a use a barbecue gear reducer on my 1720 rpm to 50 rpm with a huge torque
Doug. Which pulley goes up top? 12" or 10" what size shaft should the pillow blocks be?
I used the 10" on the bottom, mainly because the 12" wouldn't fit in the base cabinet. 3/4" bore but you have to make sure you get the pulleys first, perhaps like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/383892687417?epid=2069535364&hash=item5961c98a39:g:8d8AAOSwEXRf9ylK:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!07853!US!-1&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8M1w27%2BCax7Gh0vpfaDChq32Z9X6m3coqM2eJfLc%2FRh2Snl2FobAMdBGcHAqwUhiHKFgVAtP17CWfUFG1dVAcc25A1mEkwLshNTsYghPZ8je1GeLug%2FkRwC7zK6fvE0DipU2NvQixi%2BwWdg7kK1VHv4rJBFllIKRiurPuP44E0I%2F41JIXUOXGgq6WbSLFZHqxKxxoPfGxxwvDK%2Fx2bVtEhksGnS7DMqrHzbUQP%2F4yRfI88jO97nbxXqXo0r1okNVPVWqSQXS9mIKVLECDd6kVWLVNxkMvu9sShoco2RGeA6f5EaDKV6RgThr3w2b4hDgHA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-bRmLOTYg
Would an old treadmill motor with a speed controller work so you can adjust the speed and slow down the motor
I think that would work great. I see free treadmills now and then and wonder about taking them apart for this reason.
@@dlunderdahl absolutely, get the speed controller while your at it, but most likely it is burned out, hence the garbage bin.
Its a grounding cable did some work in electronics
it could allso be that the axle intoo the bandsaw is slightly bend or the puleys are just not balanced and the base being able to rock agrivates the problem
as for the tool , thats a vibro polisher its used to deburr and polish metal parts , we have those at work and there huge about 6 feet across , this is a lot smaller
Hows works 2x10 ..2x12 ?
Where did you buy the pulleys, bearings, and jackshaft for a total of $70??
Use Link Belt. Problem Solved
why go through all this trouble just get a variable speed treadmill motor (cheep or free) then you wouldnt have to mess with the pullys and the like
loss of power at low rpm and a tendency to overheat
Couldn't you just raise the motor up and put the big pulley on the motor
Should of just used a reistat to slow the flow of electricity. Like a dimmer switch.
Is that saw running on a DC motor? I missed him mentioning that.
If you really try and do that you will find you have many problems. Rheostats of the size needed are at least $100 probably $150, and #2 they reduce the POWER to the motor when they reduce the voltage and that causes 2 problems - overheating of the motor or stalling if too much force is applied to the metal as you are cutting.
@@advancednutritioninc908 yeah with a name like darin watts what do you expect? cant make this shit up
Howmuch
u could just use a cheap chinese inverter to slow it down...