How to color fill laser engraved wood sign
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- Опубліковано 2 тра 2021
- Today I will show you how we at Footstepsinthepast.com
color fill laser engraved signs
this process took us years to perfect and in fact still working on it let me know what you think
www.footstepsinthepast.com
here is a link to a similar laser engraver that I am using
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my secret
Triple Thick you can find it here
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correct paint for this process not all paints work be careful here is the url
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mineral spirits
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Also Jays Printer parts is looking for good affiliates if you think you can share and promote printer parts or ink apply here it is free to apply and join
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I cover the sign in painters tape. Then laser engrave it. Take off only the letters and then just paint away. Once dry, peel off the rest of the tape and there's zero cleanup.
That may be true on simple engravings like this one however on more detailed engraving it is much more work to weed the tape off then to clean the paint off in my opinion
Only way I know
@@JaysToDoList Nah, I just use the black Gorilla tape... takes the transfer tape right off Jaay.
Think I must try that for rubber coasters. Definitely will give it a try! Thanks for the tip👍
@@notpc1630 My pleasure!
I love how you improvised! Great job thanks!
G’day from Melbourne, Australia. Wonderful advice…. Thank you, Jay!
Thank you for sharing, I will put it to good use!
Thanks for the tips Jay!
I've been using a similar technique for paint filling dithered images on baltic birch. These are even harder to get right because each dot is so small, you don't want your sealant to entirely fill it up. What I've found works best is to saturate the wood as much as possible with a single extremely thick coat of shellac. Pools of shellac to start. You can watch as this gets drawn into the pores. At first it seems like it would be too much, with a puddle of shellac on the surface, but you really want the wood to get fully saturated. I'll watch for the little bubbles to stop coming out of the grain and make sure things aren't too excessive after that. When it's all done as a single coat soak, it tends to absorb as much as it can without any prior coats there to stop it from working deep into the wood, so I've never had a problem with dried puddles on the surface with this method. The shellac is also insoluble in acetone, which makes for very easy clean up of the excess spray paint. It took me a long time to get this technique down, as I kept worrying that I would clog the dots at first, but trust that the wood will absorb a lot on the first coat..
Just found your channel in my feed - loving it! Keep them coming, please!
Thanks working on another now
Great instructions!
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing your process, def nice to know.
Great glad you enjoyed have a great day
Happy anniversary! She's obviously a keeper!
Yes she is
I do the same type of signs but i lay down some vinyl transfer paper after the wood has been finished and then laser the art work, once the laser is done i peel away the transfer paper where i need to paint, paint the piece and then just peel off the rest of the mask. Perfectly crisp lines and done very fast. You have a lot of work there and i thought this might help in your process, for what its worth, and great video
I am aware of this method and still prefer my shown method. I know alot of people prefer the other but I prefer this way thanks for watching
@@JaysToDoList great video and thanks for the response
@jaystodolist may I ask why you prefer your shown method vs the one that @bobbyboy1962 mentioned. Just tying to learn if there are certain advantage, qualities or benefits one way or the other
Laser engraving vinyl can be harmful to health, as it involves inhaling toxic fumes.
@@JaysToDoListif you tried the transfer tape masking method and had trouble with paint creeping under the masking, you can use a rubber roller like the ones used when pressing down laminate for counter tops. This will eliminate most of your clean up and allow you to use spray paint if you want.
Thank you for a great video!!
Jay, I cannot tell you how helpful your advice has been to me with my art over the last year. I've meant to come here countless times to thank you, and now I think I've found the perfect way to do so: by sharing a slight modification to your method that I have found works *wonders* for cutting down on the need to do multiple coats, especially with white fills.
Prior to laser engraving, I still do the two coats of lacquer or triple-thick glaze (depending on where the item will be used). Then, after laser engraving and cleaning of soot/residue, but *before* the final lacquer/glaze coat, I coat the inside of the engraving with a 50/50 mixture of water and regular ol' Mod Podge. I know that probably sounds like some advice from a middle-aged scrapbooking enthusiast in a Joann Fabrics checkout line, but I'm telling you, it's a game-changer. Mod Podge has become my go-to sealant for difficult, porous surfaces prior to painting. A single coat of full-thickness will seal high-density fiberboard (HDF) enough to accept spray paint without any absorption. Seriously, HDF. If you've ever tried to paint that stuff, you will understand how big of a deal that is. The 50/50 mix, meanwhile, will prevent wicking of paint into the grain of even the stringiest woods I've worked with (red oak being my most common offender).
Basically, all I do is paint the 50/50 mix into all the engraved areas. It's quite thin and doesn't dry super fast, so there's some time to work. Then, I take a damp, lint-free paper towel and wipe away the excess outside the engraving. Once the Mod Podge is dry, I spray on that final coat of lacquer/glaze, then wet sand for smoothness before moving on to the oil paint.
I made a "Scrooge & Marley" sign for my local theater's production of A Christmas Carol this last winter, and filled the lettering with white. I actually had to brush away some of the white fill after only the first coat dried because the sign was meant to look weathered, and it looked *too* good.
Anyway, yeah. Mod Podge. Crazy as it sounds, give it a go sometime. I hope this is even a little bit as helpful to you as this video has been to me. Thank you again for posting it. You rock.
Thank you I have started applying triple thick over the engraving where you are applying modge podge I think this might yield similar results thanks for watching I am glad you are enjoying your laser
THANKS
Thanks a lot this is very helpful.
Great job. Thanks for sharing.
sign looks good, thanks for the vid
Been lasering a few years and always shied away from coloring because attempts were disastrous (lasering through tape and spray painting).
You proving out the paint by hand and clean up method clears up a lot of doubt and will try it. Thanks!
Thank you it is still hard it works best with a dark background light lettering. And I agree masking tape method is difficult as well I may make a video on that method. Good luck
I do small items like coasters and cutting boards. I mask and airbrush the paint in. No bleeding since the paint is so thin and isn't as wet when it hits the wood. I've always been afraid to do large items but after seeing this I think I'll give it a try.
Awesome, thanks for sharing
Congrats on the anniversary.
what a handyman, great video
You guys are really lucky in the US. You can get products over there which we can’t in the UK and if we can get it it is crazy expensive. That Rustoleum spray you used is £60 over here in the UK , that’s over $70 a can.
This is really cool please keep making videos like this! I just started with my laser so this is great content man!
Thanks I sure will just very busy at the moment
Thanks I sure will just very busy at the moment
Excellent content in this video and equally excellent presentation.
Thanks
It seems the more times I watch the video, the more questions I have. About to try it for myself, though. I noticed that, after the final color coat, you did not clear coat again, so I assume not necessary to weather proof. How long could a sign like this one be expected to last outside?
You can take a syringe and a small needle and put the paint where you need it. Works well
Instead of a plastic cup for mixing paint, I suggest you get a box of Ball Mason Jars. Get the ones calibrated in ounces on one side, and 100, 200, 300, and 400 ml on the other side. I mix enamels and epoxy primer in them and the lids usually seal tight so you get no odors as your shaking the paint. Periodically I clean them down to bare glass, because old paint tends to accumulate.
I actually just started doing this thanks for the tip
Awesome thanks for this info!
Thanks for watching I hope this helps
Thanks for your video. Because of your demonstration, it has upped my laser engraving game big time. I tried powder coating, but it is to messy mimicking your method I have my method dialed in.
Great I am glade I could help
Thx for sharing 👍
Game Changer!
I like how you don't rush each step. Well done. The idea for quality work is to take your time, step by step and do it correct :) See so many rushed jobs they end up looking 💩 😂
Thanks
Very Nice .... Made me subscribe
So I am new to this, what about using an acrylic based paint (I have watched videos that state it is used because it has properties that does not allow for bleed off) and just out of curiosity, why not spend more time being careful with the painting of the fill so you don't have to go back and wipe it down with mineral spirits. Seems like that would save several steps, time and supplies. Other than that, enjoyed your video and Happy Anniversary.
After working it this was I have found oil-based is way to go you could be more careful with the paint but when I do that I find myself applying paint for hours so this ways saves time for me a water paint paint is harder to clean up for me as well since I like to let the paint cure for final clean up
Jay, I've really enjoyed watching this video at least 4 times. Very informative. I recently tried to engrave a stained board made of pine with no coating and it turned out to be a disaster. On a large letter it burnt the letter not engraved it. Do you think that the type of stain that you use makes a difference? If so, what brand do you use?
I would not think so I use Minwax stains maybe you are engraving to slow or to hot
Thank you for this video. Do you know if I can apply this for water based paint?
You can buy infind clean up is harder
Hi, where is your video about making the frames?
I am really enjoying this video. I just started laser cutting, looking into finishing options, and I'm finding this really helpful.
Happy Anniversary!
Great I am glade I could help
Beautiful job, where do you get the lyrics?
Great tutorial.
I prefer a flat finish. Is there a such thing as a flat clear coat for outdoors?
Sure do the high gloss for all coats then after all dru apply a flat clear coat such as clear exterior spray paint
Wicked awesome job! Are you using regular plywood or an outdoor rated ply?
This one is outdoor rated ply however do not use treated
You did an great job with that video - you shouldn’t have much trouble building an audience if you keep going.
Thanks
Great Video. Glad I found your UA-cam channel Kind of new to laser engraving. Can't wait to try this. So the plywood you use is 3/8 inch? And the wood you use for the frame is 1 inch? Is that correct?
That is right good luck with your Laser you will never want to stop now
Hello, I really appreciate you sharing this method and find it very helpful! If I use lacquer to seal the wood instead of the Rustoleum gloss spray does it work all the same? Would you seal the sign after applying the final paint, or do you not need to? Very new to this and just want to know if I need to finish the signs again after the paint is applied.
you can do the same method with lacquer I use it from time to time as long as the fill paint is not also lacquer make sure it is something that cleans up with mineral spirits not lacquer thinner as you will make a mess. melting your clear finish into the fill during clean up. you do not need to clear coat on top unless you want the same sheen
@@JaysToDoList okay will do! Thank you!
I have read a few comments and have not seen this question asked yet. I apologize in advance if you have answered it many times already, but I am curious if you have ever tried oil-based paint pens and if clean-up is still doable with pens? I currently have been using acrylic pens with Shellac, but your cleanup looked easier than mine.
I have never tried worth a shot
I just love this sign and have been wanting to try it for myself on my diode laser. Okay, I'm looking at your engraving, and it doesn't look that deep, so I'm wondering if I could do that with the diode? Why not try, right? So I did. However, when I tried to do the over-paint cleanup, I was wiping paint out of the engraving as well. I'm thinking an error in technique that would be immediately obvious to you and would be grateful for any suggestions.
I would suggest allowing the paint to dry a little longer
@@JaysToDoList Thanks, Jay.
Hello,
Thanks so much for the video! Could I ask why you done the sign on both sides? Is that something you do with all your signs? Thanks again
This was a custom sign and the customer wanted it double sided
ok makes sense. Appreciate the reply so much
any alternative to mineral spirits? great video! thank you so much!
not with this method. we have has some success with a water based paint like latex however this is the method I prefer even still some people like to put masking tape done then engrave and fill but I find this method tedious
@@JaysToDoList thank you! you’re the man!
would masking the sign lessen the steps? would be easier for cleanup. Thanks for the vid you make beautiful work.
As long has you have a good clear coat you do not need to I have had issues with the masking method and do not care for it
Hi there, thanks for all this info! I want to give this is try. However, I live in Los Angeles and Mineral Spirits and Denatured alcohol are banned here. Are there any substitutes for those that you know of? Thanks for your help!
Sorry, but those are the best they have substitutes, but they don't work. Make sure you get out and vote this year
Wouldn’t it be easier to use masking tape before you laser cut then paint it then remove the masking tape? That’s what I use but I don’t do things this size. I buy masking tape that 12” wide.
I'm Surprised you don't use powder coat and the laser. seemed like a great Idea, I have yet to try it.
nope not yet seems like the air asist might blow the powder away but I might try it with the assist off
I enjoyed your video and learned a lot. However one question I have is how deep are you engraving? I cannot seem to get that right.
you don't have much control over dept slow it down and heat it up to go deeper, speed it up and cool it off to not. this is a plywood sign so it basically for me it took off the first layer of plywood and stopped at the glue
Hi super video thanks. Where can I buy triple thick? I’m in France and not seen it on Amazon. Thanks
You can use Lacquer in its place
Great video! Thanks. Do you spray 1 more coat of triple thick after you’re all done cleaning up the white?
I do like to clear coat once it is all cleaned up so i all looks even
@@JaysToDoList thanks. Your signs are beautiful. I had been wonder the best way to get the engraved part filled in.
When in filing with white use silver as a precoat, more dense and easy to cover
Thanks for the tip I'll try it
Scotty, is that some kind of oil base paint?
It may just be the camera, but there still seem to be some dark spots within the infill. Might a 3rd coat have been better?
Possibly needed a third coat I don't remember if i did one or not at this point . white is a very hard color to hide the dark burn from the laser
A heads up NEVER use any type of alcohol on acrylic it causes micro fractures. Use it before the clear coating but never after it. Your glaze is acrylic based and most likely that's why your paint bleeds through into the wood even though you've sealed it first.
Morning! Great vid! Beautiful signs! What size laser printer bed do you work with?
We have a few largest is about 36x48 inch bed
Do you do laser engraving ? what brand do you use?
@@JaysToDoList I do! I have a Boss Laser 1630ls. Bed is a 16x30". I mostly work in acrylic, but have recently ventured into little wall art stuff. I have gantry doors for tiling larger signs, but can't figure out in my Engravelab software how on earth to set that up. I'm thinking about upgrading the software so I can use Ruida works, because engravelab is incredibly limiting.
I wish I had more experience with engravelab to help you out all my lasers have Ruida controllers and use Rdworks I can help you out there if needed
have a great day
As someone that does really small letter color fill ( think 10 pt font) on finished product where thinners aren't possible, I think you should really reconsider using high tack paper transfer paper.
If I were in your shoes, I'd apply the transfer paper, vector the lettering/graphics when possible. Then engrave, blow off the dust at a low PSI, clear coat to seal the bare wood, apply my two/three coats of paint, and then peel. "Weeding" that sort of sign would take a maximum of 5 minutes and is super low risk vs painting and then doing cleanup afterwards where it's pretty easy to rub on a letter and then you have an inconsistent finish which needs touch up.
Thank you for your input
Thats how i do it too, the important part is sealing the wood before painting or it will bleed. You can also take the paper off then seal it all, fill the engrave with paint then sand the whole thing down and put a topcoat on
I just saw your tutorial this morning, while waiting for the snow to melt. Question: since you already had the pattern, why didn't you cut a mask from poster board and spray the letters? It would seem to me that would eliminate a lot of cleanup. Regards, Gary
That is another way to do it and a lot of people like that method I personally can't stand peeling the masking tape off Then there's always clean up afterwards anyway So I do this method
@@JaysToDoList I wasn't thinking of masking tap. O was thinking of poster board to limit the overspray. Less to clean up afte.
Regards,
Gary
Jay ...thank you for the videos...i cant find where you show how you cut grooves into your framing wood....can you tell me the title of the vid please👍
Hello thanks for watching I believe this video shows my proccess for the grooves here is the link
ua-cam.com/video/Zteeb_P4yns/v-deo.html
@@JaysToDoList Not on this one Jay. 🙈
Hello nice video and nice sign too. I did feel sorry for you with all the clean up at the end that you have to do. SO i thought i'd post this little tip. If you use blue painters tape or even clear artist masking tape. You could use this to mask off the entire wood panel. Then laser engrave you letters through the tape and then pick out any remains of the letters covered with tape. This lets you have a fantastic masking for the white paint. Once the paint is dried remove the masking tape and you have a lot less amount of clean up to do. This should save you a lot of time. Ive seen some other laser work channels doing the same and proves the idea works.
Hello I am aware of this method it has ita down falls as well after making thousands of signs I still prefer the method I have shown thank you for your input
I continued to go back to painting after hearing about masking saving so much time. I have tried this many times, on many different wood types and I have wasted so much time trying to get the laser settings down on my diode 10 Watt and I cannot seem to get it. Not sure what I am doing wrong, but in the end, the painting is peaceful and my shop doesn't stink so bad.
Great video! Thanks! Question, I am still learning how to laser engrave but I have seen a video of someone using blue painters tape to cover the engraved area then applying a clear lacquer to avoid bleeding, and then paint and than remove tape. Would that have the same outcome?
Oracal would be better. It depends on whether your time or the Oracal is worth more. If you're running a business, go with the Oracal.
Hello I have done this method and i still prefer mine you can do this and yield some pretty good results. But we started our business with a vinyl cutter and I never want to weed again doing this the painters tape method yuck it will bring back that horrible weeding
@@JaysToDoList I heard if you do the duck tape method were you good where you apply on top of area and peel back . Have you tried that?
@@betobeto7903 do not use duct tape it will ruin your piece masking take will work
The rattle can is most likely oil based,, Water base won't stick to the oil based undercoat.. If you always use this procedure,, that could explain why water based doesn't work for you.. Oil based products are typically MUCH better but they have been outlawed in California (as is everything else in king gavin's neighborhood).. AND,, If you mask your wood with laser masking tape, before the laser cutting,, you have a perfect paint mask/stencil built in and ready to paint. Just add the color coat, remove the mask and VIOLA!!!
Thanks the "rattle can" I use is a Alcohol based it is perfect with oil paints. I have done masking many time and still prefer this way but I do know alot of people like to mask have a great day
I wqtched until I saw Menards - USA... there is more to the world... do you hav suggesions for similr products to Triple Thick that the rest of us can use?
Sure it is a rustoleum product I belive they are world wide
Affiliate links are the way to go.
if you use masking tape before engraving, the painting will be much more easier?
That may be true on simple engravings like this one however on more detailed engraving it is much more work to weed the tape off then to clean the paint off in my opinion
@@JaysToDoList yeah I agree with you. For much more detailed ones, what is the optimal solution? Cleaning after painting takes time and consumes more consumables. So what is your opinion?
@@themusicifeel I recommend the method I show in this video
@@JaysToDoList Thanks. 👍
Why not use medium tack masking tape to mask it? Engrave, seal, paint then pull the tape off... ezpz. Sharp lines, no cleaning up with alcohol etc. ?
This is just the way I prefer I personally hate weeding masking tape. It's also a way that people have not seen before. I may do a video on the masking tape method which I have done many many times.
What is the wood species? Good sources? Thx
Yellow pine
Have u ever considered powder paint and melt it in the laser? Zero clean up!
Happy Late Anniversary
you need to make a sign rack to free up space (so you can fill it with other junk right?). I think if you used the same sort of wide making tape I see on other channels you could save the laborious step of cleaning off all the excess paint that went outside the engraving. Oh wait LousianaHObbyGuy said the same thing. great minds think alike and fools seldom differ.
Good idea
Why don't you use a HVLP gun to spray your clear coat & save money on product cost? You can buy the liquid in 1-gallon or 5-gallon pails.
Where do you but this in 5 gallon pails?
What brand of laser do you use?
I recommend rabbit laser tell them Jay sent you if you call for a good deal
Looks like it still needs another coat.
just continue another coat if you think yours needs it. I personally love the wood grain showing through
What is the link to your website
Hi Joey z we can be found at www.footstepsinthepast.com
Real Chris Pratt vibes on here
Oh boy thanks
@@JaysToDoList pretty wholesome vibes have a good day
Happy Early 18th anniversary!!!
"Its time to science the sh1t out of this"
Seriously though is this Matt Damon in disguise 🤔
Much faster if you use a mask, no need to wipe after any coat.
Maybe but i personally would rather wipe then weed the mask yuck
Take a vinyl cutter and cut the lettering and skip the paint. Done in an hour.
Yuck it won't very a long time outdoors
How much would you tend to sell this sign for?
I want to say this sign went for 199 with free shipping but it is double sided
@@JaysToDoList thanks mate! My laser comes next week (got a Mira 9 coming) I’m uk based so luckily no one else selling locally :)
Just trying to get a rough pride guide for things people are selling
Appreciate the reply thanks :)
That Thai food ?
Sorry man but this is the hard way.
1.Stain and finish panel.
2. Mask with masking paper.
3. Engrave
4. Spray finish in the engraving.
5. Spray paint and peeling masking (perfect clean lines)
6. Add frame. Frame last so sanding in between is easier.
Thanks for your input I personally very much dislike the masking tape method
@@JaysToDoList Have you tried Oramask 813?
Oh yes I've tried this alot of people like that way I personally do not
I agree. I'd rather spend the extra time you gain masking and put another coat on the letters. Better end result with less work.
"Every single flat surface is filled..."
Welcome to my hell.
Oh man good luck
I've seen people mask it out with tape or other products then engrave, paint and voila. No clean up.
That is definitely another way of doing it I have much experience in that way and still prefer this way however I'm working on a video to show the other way
Please wear gloves. It might seem fine now, but you'll have nerve damage later in life. A respirator when your spray will save your lungs.
Thank you for your concern