Recapping one of my Game Boy Colors
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2019
- So, one of my new GBCs has no sound really. The issue is that the speaker is blown but the cause is a bad capacitor on the main board. Also, in trying to troubleshoot, I discovered that the console only works intermittently at best. This is due to a faulty power switch. To fix all these issues, I need to clean the power switch, replace the capacitors (just the one really, but the other two may already be bad or might go bad soon), and replace the speaker.
Here is the post from BennVenn with details regarding the specific issue and the fix: / 2257279161052191
These are the caps you need (nichicon is better than panasonic for this use, but if nic caps are unavailable get the panasonic ones)
22uF 16v 4x5.4mm
Panasonic www.arrow.com/en/products/eee...
Nichicon www.arrow.com/en/products/uwr...
100uF 4v 5x5.4mm
Panasonic www.arrow.com/en/products/eee...
Nichicon www.arrow.com/en/products/uwx...
100uF 6.3v 6.3x5.4mm
Panasonic www.arrow.com/en/products/eee...
Nichicon www.arrow.com/en/products/uwj...
You might be able to get the same parts cheaper on digikey, mouser, or lcsc.
You'll also need a new speaker. I used one from a parts GBC but you can also pick up new compatible speakers from aliexpress: www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...
Be careful not to lift any pads when desoldering the old caps. - Ігри
Thanks for the upload! Was working on modding my GBC and got lazy with cleaning the power switch and replacing the capacitors even though I picked up a kit. Now that I know what could happen when they go bad, I'll go back and swap them out!
Nice. Love these kind of videos. Such a satisfying ending.
Nicely done! The first GBC recap I did, I ripped part of the board off under the old cap 😅
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I relocated a crystal on an arduino not too long ago and those have the same stupid long pads and I ended up ripping one of the pads.
Great video! We needed to know what caused the issue. Thanks.
age -- electrolytic caps only last so long
Very well explained video, thanks!
Right on duder! Ive wondered why people don't use a two iron method. This confirms my theory. Nice job, good video 🤘
I use a hot plate now. Even easier than two irons.
@@makho thanks for the reply. I liked the 2 iron idea, but just went slow with 1. Success has been achieved! Overall best practice; practice, patience, and attention...? I dig your content. Mostly concise and straightforward. But folks like me don't know what questions to ask. Got any reference for how to aquire knowledge? Videos, school, influence? I'm not an idiot, just ignorant. Again, great stuff man. Thanks for your time and help 🤘
@earthskarma there is no once source I recommend. Keep in mind that most uploaders on UA-cam are entertainers first and foremost so often the content they upload is dictated by what the algorithm will do well. For general electronics stuff, probably make some stuff with arduinos or the like. Nearly everything transfers over to game boys and the documentation is a lot better. I often recommend designing (and optionally building) a mechanical keyboard.
Thanks for sharing. I have been looking at those no audio consoles and was wondering what was up.
I know you're not keen on some of Retro6 stuff, but i saw they sell a "Gameboy Color Power Capacitor kit" which is a 680uF that replaces the 100uF 6.3V stock. I wander if that actually helps at all with the audio noise issues?
I've just ordered 100uF Solid polymer Caps to replace my GBC ones. I've seen some russian mods that use MLCC caps to replace all the aluminium caps too (search for GBAmp3 on tindie and look at the GBC's PCB). I know that capacitor technology has advanced a lot since GBC was introduced, I wander if Polymer/Hybrid caps or MLCC's can make a significant improvement? I went with Polymers to keep the same aesthetics.
Nice work
The thing you are missing is liquid flux that would make recapping this easy as pie not hot air
Yep, I need better flux. I was going to order some stuff but not until after the holidays.
Hi, Could you identify the capacitors of the gameboy advance, with the arrow.com link? I have searched the web but there is no concrete information to be found.
literally in the video description
I tore the solder pad off the c38 capacitor on an old gameboy and am scared outta my mind to do again, mainly because the damn old solder isnt melting. Im having some trouble like you did but how hot did you have your soldering iron?
Please try a solder practice kit to learn how to solder first. The problem here is your method.
Would these capacitors work on the Gameboy advance as well?I think my GBA had the same issue, rusty speaker, no sound. I replaced the speaker an dit works but the sound seems ot be pretty quiet. Im thinking (after cleaning the volume wheel and headphone jack) that it may be bad capacittors
I don't know the specs on the GBA caps off-hand. They should be labelled though. It's probably a good idea to replace them in your case but I'll have to find the specific ones if these aren't it.
I actually looked it up there’s a console5 wiki that lists alll the caps for all the different handhelds
Hi! I need your help as I dont know much about capacitors. I bought an SMD kit with the same uf and VDC values but the body dimensions of one of the capacitors is smaller. Is it a problem or since the uf and v values are the same its going to be fine? Thanks a lot!
no, that's fine. Technology is not the same today as it was 23 years ago when these things were specced out and designed.
@@makho thanks a lot for your response! You're awesome!👍
*Could you possibly do a recapping vid for the GBA SP?* I could not for the life of me find a recapping tutorial for it yet.
My GBA SP is making a low volume buzzing noise which can be heard both on the speaker and on headphones via an adapter. So I'm sure it's not the adapter's fault and it's not the speaker. I suspect bad caps causing power issues or something. I'm gonna try cleaning the console and the switches before even thinking about replacing capacitors. I should also check the board for bad solders.
there's only one electrolytic cap on the SP that would need replacing if that's even the issue
@@makho Thanks for the reply!
I actually noticed that both my AGB-001 and AGS-001 have the buzzing noise when either on speaker or on headphones. It's not loud enough that I could hear the buzz when playing on the console's own speakers. I can only hear it if I put my ear right next to the speaker. But on headphones it's really audible and irritating.
After a bit of testing I'm pretty sure it's just that both of them have dirty power switches. I'm gonna give them a good clean to see if that helps!
Makho, i have an og gbc without mods or anything... he does a buzz sound when i use it with headphones. It's not annoying, but i want to know what's the cause of that. It's the capacitors ? The speakers in clean and working fine ! Maybe this buzz sound is more noticiable because of the size of the headphones ? hmmm is it something it can be fix with a capacitor change ? Thanks !
Could be caps. I'd start by cleaning and potentially replacing both the headphone jack and volume wheel, then recap the console
@@makho i played a bit yesterday after that comment.... and it's not a buzz, but rather a hummmm sound..... it only gets noticeable of o turn the volume too loud. My GBA does the same thing and it's a vanilla gba as well... maybe it's just me idk lol but thanks for answering !
also, the gba makes funny noises when you boot a ez flash omega game ahahah
bruh I just ripped two cap pads in a row. I've gotta completely rethink the entirety of my soldering technique now.
I used two irons in this video but a hot plate is even easier.
I've got two gameboy colors that both had no sound. I re-capped them both and put new speakers on. Both speakers still don't work. When I plug in headphones the sound works fine. I've cleaned up the headphone jack and there doesn't seem to be any corrosion that would make it think headphones were still plugged in. Any suggestions?
Sounds like a bad headphone jack. You can test continuity on the pins and compare with a working one.
@@makhoDo you have a video on that? I'm new to doing stuff like that with a multimeter. Also do you have a discord server suggestion for retro repair?
@@davidpohle put it in beep mode and see what is connected. The headphone jack has a switch in it and there should be continuity on one of the pins to ground (the pins that aren't ground pins). Check all the pins then compare with another, known working motherboard.
Does anyone know what caps the gba needs?
So I know this is an older video, but handheld legend sells some 680uf 6.3v aluminum capacitor (the one located behind power regulator) and OMG do they make a night a day difference. When I replace all capacitors with the console5 kit, yeah it help, but since I had backlight and amp, so much noise/static. Replace with 680uf 6.3v aluminum capacitor, voila, Problem solve. Here it is in case anyone desire it: handheldlegend.com/collections/game-boy-color-gbc/products/680uf-aluminum-capacitor-for-cleanamp-20-6-3v-smd?variant=31547771846790
> HHL
:(
can you use tantalum caps as replacement?
Different values might be more optimal but I believe so. I've seen a few people try it but without long term test results, I cannot say if they are suitable in the long run.
I fucked up the negative pad on the larger capacitor. Can I just wire the negative end to the ground next to it?
Depends on which specific capacitor. The power ones, yes, the audio one, no.
Hi there. Which one is the sound capacitor?
@@mre2164 bottom left, check the schematic
If you put fresh solder the rohs solder and old old solder used will melt easier
These devices pre-date unleaded solder and post-date crappy leaded solder :)
Another trick for removing SMD caps, is cutting the 'can' part off with flat cutters, and that lets you do one pad at a time.
That's not a trick, that's bad technique and if you've done this before successfully, you're lucky you haven't ripped pads up.
@@makho Are you saying, that litterally pulling on the traces, is better than a perpendicular shearing force? Its gonna suck if you were to do it at the wrong angle yes, cuz you'd be pulling the legs together. But cutting in alignment with the traces, its the easier and safer way. In my oppinion
I just very, very, slightly rotated the can back and forth for about a minute and it snapped off, zero effort, no damage.
Where does one find cap replacements for the SP?
There are no kits that I know of if that's what you're asking. You can get replacement caps from any electronics parts retailer though like digikey, mouser, lcsc, arrow, etc.
Well it seemed as such as I scoured the tube, so I figured I'd ask a couple UA-cam Gurus. Thanks - you've taught me extensively through the last few months.