I was so grateful for the tips I learnt from @JamieDunbar, I revisited this tutorial. I found the bevel node technique was good, but not accurate, as wear/scratches occur in the sticking out edges, but not in the cracks. I tried using the Geometry>Pointiness node, one for edgewear, another INVERTED to add dirt in the concave crevices. I hooked it up to the "Dirt" and "Color" frames with a Color Mix node. The result is outstandingly realistic! Thanks again for showing us all those techniques and giving us the understanding to go further.
That's brilliant @Tiki_Media 🤩 I tried to make the material setup in this video simple enough that anyone with a little experience could do it and get nice results. And if you just copy what's taught here you'll get nice results - but not brilliant results. My hope is that people will take the lessons on how to build masks and take them to the next level. It's in mixing them, flipping them and combining them with nodes not even mentioned in this video that you can start to make truly beautiful materials. I feel like you've really embraced the true lessons in this video ☺
Finally someone who EXPLAINS what the individual node settings do WHILE showing the process in detail! Thank you so much, one of the best tutorials I have seen so far!
Thank God I found your channel. What I love most is you’re explaining exactly why you are adding each node and what you’re using it for. Nodes are my biggest problem. I can usually find my way to model anything but when it comes to geometry nodes I just get all confused as to what to plug into what and what node I need to use to achieve my goals
Thanks so much @dialac1 😁 I was listening to Andrew Price's podcast where he mentioned he'd had a lot of trouble wrapping his head around Geometry Nodes. And listening to him, it sounded like he'd had the same problem you're having - very few people explain WHY they're doing things. It's just: plug this isn't that, and that into this and hey-presto! You've got a realistic hamburger! And I'm like...that's great. But HOW!?
Your video tutorials are amazing! The mixture of being clear and concise with humour, great cutaways, and your knowledge makes learning this so much easier and I have recently watched all of yours that cover the basics - I found the mushroom first.lol. But the skills you teach are so much more than just basic. This video made something I have been struggling with so much easier to understand and I really appreciate the time you have spent making all of your vids - your are awesome! And thank you.
Thanks so much Jadyn. There’s quite a bit of agonising that goes into what to say and what to leave out of these videos. I’m glad what’s being left in is hitting its mark 😊
Pro tip, hold “alt” and RMB for a quick connection between the nodes (with node wrangler). Btw, this is one of the cleanest tutorial I’ve seen on yt, thank you man!
That's exactly the type of feedback I like to hear @themalandrajo Once you start to wrap your head around a handful of nodes, it becomes infinitely easier to learn the others. Good luck!
@@JamieDunbar I think these kinda short and precise videos are better than 2hr long tutorials. I believe it has sth to do with your language skill. Each sentence was clear and you explained every step with the reason you did it. Hoping to see more of it. And thanks for the awesome content.
@@ahmedhafiz2419 Thanks mate, that's really helpful feedback. I've been trying to learn better ways of making tutorials and this is the first video I've implemented it all in. By the sounds of it, it's working 🤞
That's great to hear. I was worried this one was getting a little too confusing, so very happy to hear it's hitting the mark. Also...."mate"? Do we have another Aussie in the house? 😄
Amazing video! I have been looking for some more videos that show the process of creating realistic materials. One note I would add is that using image textures for the color node brings the whole material to another level, but this is still great for being procedural 👍
Amazing tutorial! I just have a quick tip: The "dirt" should be an independent bsdf that should be added to the mixed metal and paint bsdfs. There are two reasons to do so. Your approach leads to dirt missing everywhere where there is no paint over the metal. In the real world there would normally be scratches in the paint and dirt all over the object. Your pattern would only occure if the object would be dirty and then scratched heavily. If intended this would need a more complex setup because the dirt would have been pushed and smeared around by the forces creating the damage in the paint. The second point is that every material should be its own bsdf. A bsdf tells blender how light interacts with a surface. It is not a color it is a material. By adding dirt color to the paint color you are not generating dirt but rather dirt colored paint. Dirt is an other material than paint (obviously :D) and has its own physical properties that can only be rendered realistically by adding an extra bsdf for it.
Yeah, all of this is a solid point. Admittedly adding the dirt at the end was a bit of an afterthought, and the masking isn't set up perfectly for it. It gets the job done, but it's not as accurate as it should be. I don't think you *need* an extra BSDF. You could get around it with better masking. But it's also a perfectly viable way of doing it too and is likely a little easier to set up.
@@JamieDunbar i would really use more understand of subsurface scattering. i really love this effect, but i don't fully understand how to use it to the fullest and there seem to be not too many tutorials on this subject :)
That's awesome @agathiyan2493. Out of curiosity, what's made you fearful of procedural nodes in the past? Maybe I can make a few other videos in this series.
an interesting effect during color variation as shown in 2:53 it is vary hue and luminosity, because luminosity only vary in real life on porpouse, when diving into color and how much depth you can provide is a known trick by speedpainters and pixelartist to combine hues to blueish darker colors and redish lighter colours. that way you can also keep lighten differences in colors very low because the hue involved will change the percived color by the human eye as much darker/lighter then the other
This was way more advanced than I thought it was going to be hahaha. So many nodes and steps. Definitely NOT 3 easy steps. It still worked out in the end, but that was wayyyyy more involved than I thought it was going to be. I'm not sure I'm going to remember how to do this again on my own, but I appreciate the walkthrough.
It would probably be more accurate if it were called “three principles” to realistic materials. I’d definitely put this under more of an intermediate tutorial than beginner level. But well done sticking it out to the end! And don’t worry about remembering everything step by step. I couldn’t reproduce this perfectly from memory! Try and take the principles from it. Things like using noise to break up textures. Layering materials for realism. Using some sort of edge detection to place things like dirt and scratches. Once you know the overarching principles it becomes a lot easier to look up the individual steps. And you can apply those principles in any software 😁
Superb tutorial. Thank you for creating it, and keeping it short, much appreciated! If you wish to optimize your shader node work flow, I highly suggest using the letter "O" hot key for Previewing Node Output, rather than CTRL+SHIFT+Left Mouse. 1 key press instead of 3! I wish more people would use this efficiency... ☺
Okay, where has that been hiding? I had no idea the "O" key also did node previews 😵 That said, I just tested it and...the "O" key is on the opposite side of my keyboard. I usually have my hand resting near my most common shortcuts, like A, S, G, X, E, etc. Crazy thought...do you think the "O" shortcut might be there for left handers?
@@JamieDunbar Haha! I am in fact left handed, perhaps that's why it works better than CTRL + SHIFT + Left Mouse, because the CTRL and SHIFT are also on the right side of the keyboard, but "O" is handier, no pun intended. I just discovered that when Node Wrangler is enabled, you can switch the keyboard shortcuts in Edit > Preferences > Keymap area. They are mixed in with standard node editor shortcuts. A right-handed person could, for example, make "W" the Preview Node Output key, if they wanted a small speed tweak. 🤓
@@Tiki_Media Ahahah! I called it 😁 One of my close friends from University is a left hander, so I have some familiarity with how difficult a right-handed keyboard/mouse defaults can be. Especially for gamers!
I’m left handed but use my mouse with my right hand! It’s super annoying as it means I can’t use a tablet / pen as a mouse. Also cntl+shift+click is still just one key press action so I’m not sure there’s much of a saving with O. Whatever works for you best I guess
@@thehomme Well, technically it's not one key press it is three. Also there are plenty of necessary Blender keys located all across the keyboard and not just on the left-hand side. Whatever works for you the best I guess.
That's awesome to hear @crummymudd8625 I almost left that part out, as I was worried it might be too much for a beginner tutorial. But frames do such a good job of organising everything in your head. I'm very glad I left it in 😊
Procedural fingerprints....probably not. Fingerprints are extremely complex shapes. However, AmbientCG has a couple of nice fingerprint materials you could add into your shader. Grab them here: ambientcg.com/view?id=Fingerprints007 And this tutorial goes over how to apply them: ua-cam.com/video/uOCT3SIr3kU/v-deo.html
Love the tutorial. Just wanted to post a update on if it's not working for you. (I had to troubleshoot this) if you download the blender project provided, just grab the model and recreate everything in another project. For whatever reason, the materials don't create the same output. I think it's a version difference that causes the mess up but if you know why this worked on a new project and not the one provided please let me know.
Oh that's interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I'm guessing you're working in Blender 4.0? This was made in 3.6, and I know I've seen one or two materials break with the big Principled shader update. I'll take a look and upload two versions of the file 😉
@@JamieDunbar I have just followed the tutorial and in most cases to get a similar result, you have to make sure to disable "Normalize" in the noise texture node. However the very last step for dirt is not working at all and i havent yet figured out how to fix that
Thanks @@Robonator14. I'm still figuring out what the "normalize" checkbox does under the hood. In some cases it seems to improve the material. In other cases (like the scratches) it turned it completely black. The ramp also plays a big part, so I'd suggest tweaking that slightly if normalize isn't giving you the desired results. I'm not sure what's going on with the dirt in your scene though. The "final" material works at my end. I even tried recreating it from scratch to make sure and didn't have any problems 🤷♂
I just took a look at the download file in 4.0. Out of curiosity, does the "final" material work okay for you? Is it just when you create the material yourself, or do both break? The "final" material seems to still be working at my end, so I'm having a little trouble trying to recreate your issue.
@@JamieDunbar I made it work now by changing the texture coordinate for the dirt block from "object" to "generated", because i saw someone else in another tutorial do it this way. Now it looks as it should. Before that it would apply the "texture" all over the model and i could not get it to only cover part of the object like it is in the video, no matter how much i played around with the other settings. To answer your other question, the final worked just fine for me. Looks as it should just a little more scratched up than it is in the video, almost as if the paint is cracking.
You’re not late! I try and make these tutorials to last the test of time so…(checks the latest Blender version)…oh wow, there’s already been three updates!? Wow that happen fast 🤯
I spent about 7 years learning Maya before moving over to Blender. Once you learn enough Maya, you start to see that everything is nodes. So not just materials, or a tool like Geometry Nodes. But literally everything from extruding a face through to rigging is connecting nodes. Most of it happens in the background so the user doesn't have to deal with it - but there's editors you can jump into to see the node tree. It's where Maya's true power comes from. Because you can literally connect any node to any other node. Sometimes in ways that crash the program 😅 So when I moved over to Blender, I had to learn the names of the nodes, but they do the exact same thing. Once you've learned on system it becomes a lot easier to learn a second. (And if you really want an experience, try learning Houdini 🤣)
I thought this was great. What I’d suggest is the final step is replaced with a painted texture to the object the material is being applied to, a bit more work but you can get a more natural look that suit the objects actual surface
Yeah there's still a lot more people could do to take this material to another level. It still bugs me that I didn't connect anything to the roughness map!
Great tutorial, however the other two mthods (Ambient Occlusion and Pointiness) were never discussed. Especially how to get better edge selection out of Ambient Occlusion for those that can't render in cycles.
Have you downloaded the project files? There’s a setup in there for both pointiness and ambient occlusion you can use. Ultimately the method is very similar. Use either the AO or Geometry node and control the contrast with a ramp or map range node 👍
Someone please tell this man how to pronounce voronoi. Great tutorial though, never knew how to get good edge detection working before so this was very helpful.
Generally, I suck at Blender, but I'm starting to get a real hang of Fusion 360 (my prefered 3d program). Yet it's still so interesting to watch the ways people make 'close to professional' art with a free software. Plus, I'm coming back to it occasionally if I feel like torturing my mind with it xD (aka challenging it beyond it's capabilities)
Fusion is one of the few 3D programs I haven't touched at all. It's breathtaking how much people can create using free tools these days. Blender. Davinci Resolve for editing. Krita or Gimp for images and photos. Heck there's even some basic motion capture tools that are free. It's genuinely possible to make Hollywood level visuals for nickles and dimes these days. (Okay, maybe dollars and cents. Inflation you know 🤑)
Such a relief to hear. I really wanted this to be as beginner friendly as possible and about halfway through I was thinking...man this is getting complex 😅 Hopefully everyone finds it as understandable as you have.
Hey mate. This tutorial was made in Blender 3.6. It sounds like you're using Blender 4.0. The BSDF went through a design overhaul in the last update, so it looks quite a bit different. Don't worry though, it still has all the inputs you need, they're just arranged slightly different. Everything in this tutorial should still work
Not 100% sure but you can also use a math node instead of mix color node on the tear and wear, if im correct the math node takes less time to compile than the mix color node.
Yes you could! There's also just the "mix" node, which works with float values rather than colour. I think either of those would offer a small performance improvement. I assume because a float is one value, while colour uses R,G and B. I'm not sure you'd notice a big difference with a relatively small node tree like this, but once you start getting big enough node trees it probably becomes really important.
A really good question, and one I often ask myself. Usually it comes down to speed vs quality. If it’s a background object I’ll often just quickly do it in Blender, rather than doing the export/import dance. But for characters or close up objects I’ll throw it into Substance.
Amazing video, thank you so much for this! I have a question though, I made a sub-d robot with thousands of parts that I want to texture for high quality purposes, I thought about bringing it into painter but i don't have the hardware to handle about 100+ UDIMS in 4k so I decided to texture everything procedural, first of all is this a valid option for such a hero asset? And secondly, is there any advice u can give me to make the texturing look realistic in this case instead of just a procedural material over everything? I will definitely add a few more material variations of this video just to randomize it up a little but im still kinda nervous it might look too simple
Oh wow, that’s a lot of UVs! I usually use 4K UDIMs on my models. I tend to run out of GPU RAM around 20 tiles. So 100 of them will almost certainly kill your computer, or at least force you to render on the CPU. I’d say your best bet here would be to use some procedural materials as a base, then layer additional custom details over the top. So you’d maybe put a logo on the chest piece, but not on the other parts. That way you’ll get those extra details, but still largely have procedural materials. I’d also look into decals (an extra piece of geometry layered over the top of the original with a different material. Kind of like a sticker).
I'm using 4.02 myself now and it still works at my end. Are you using the provided file or your own model? Sometimes one of the other methods may work better for certain models. Try using the Geometry->Pointiness or Ambient Occlusion method. Or download the scene files to make sure your setup is the same.
Yes, and that can export like 3D models. For that reason, i don't like procedural materials. you can bake all teksture, but if you don't have substance painter, it has sense.
Thank you some great stuff here, (please can you consider being explicit about the node connections for new users? I'm trying to follow you but often not clear of which node exactly you are referring to, maybe you could zoom out further more to help with context).
Thanks for the feedback Alex. Ironically I've been trying to zoom in a lot more, as sometimes people have trouble reading the nodes. But I fully appreciate being able to see the entire tree to get context of where you are. I guess there must be a happy medium somewhere in there.
@@richochet Yeah I can definitely add a couple of seconds near the end of "and here's our final node setup!" For this video though, don't forget you can download the scene files and go through the nodes at your own leisure.
Congratulations, the animation of the first 3 seconds of the video, including the following motorbike are really professionally animated with Blender. But the following one is only semi-professional.
This was very well explained! Thank you. Maybe some more intermediate steps to understand better the origin of the masks mixes, but that we can do ourselves. Thank you!
as i am a new cg artist All this work that you have done should i practice with byhard and remember..(or)? And By learning like this daily, can i automatically design with new things with my self for my future films without watching tutorials...? Pls say
Hi Dinesh. It will take time and lots of practice. But yes, eventually you'll learn how to use the tools well enough you'll be able to make stuff on your own without having to watch tutorials. That said, you never stop learning. I'm currently trying to learn how to do feathers and I'm having to watch a few tutorials to learn.
the two most common issues people seem to be having are either being in material view, or using Eevee. The bevel node is a render only feature, and only works in Cycles. And don't forget, there's the scene files available for download if you want to make sure you've got the setup correct 😊
Yeah, unfortunately I didn't pick up on that when I made the tutorial. It's not too hard to get it to work though. You'll need to combine the dirt and random damage masks with a mix node. Setting the mix node to subtract seems to work.
Thank you for the tutorial. For the part you talked about the gradient, something is odd is happening with me. When I try to set it, the gradient will be show as it is going from black to gray rather than from black to white. When i changed the size of the ball to much bigger, and apply all transformation with the new size, it gave me the correct flow for gradient I am expecting and that goes along with your tutorial. however, I see you not changing the size, yet, it works fine for you and I failed to figure out the different or the problem. do you have any idea bout this? Again, I would like to thank you for your video, as i really learned a lot from it.
Well, figured it out already. It is my mistake, as did apply the scale over the object which is 0.1 m. After the application of the all transformation, the scale became 1.0 m. All these small issues can cause of a lot of problem for new learners like me. Frankly, before i post the question, i spend countless hours trying for know where is the problem and this really drain my time in such a simple thing. The wrong distinction between the scale and the dimension of an object cause all this hallucinations. When the scale is different than 1.0 m, a lot of issues arise can lead to different application of materials and textures. Again, thank you for great work, keep it up.
Glad to hear you figured it out. Applying scale is one of the most annoying things in 3D (up there will flipped normals and unmerged vertices). Unfortunately it’s one we can’t really get rid of either. There are times when you can use scale to your advantage for specific effects or rigging.
great tut. once i got to 9:06, my shaderball looks identical aside from the random damage, instead of it showing the metal underneath where the random damage is, it shows the darker color set on the mix color node for the paint. what are some potential causes of that? edit: nvm found it, its 4.0 causing the issue, by default "normalize" is checked in the noise texture and if you leave it on, it doesnt behave correctly. i can get the paint and metallic look, but despite having the nodes set up exactly the same, and having it in cycles. cant get the edge wear to show up. using 4.0. i assume thats the issue. im going to try again on 3.6. edit: i ended up getting the pink/purple texture bug when trying in 3.6, its always hilarious when it says it cant find a texture that isnt meant to be present in the first place haha. though its kind of annoying that rather than being able to tell blender not to look for a texture, one isnt supposed to be there, your only option is to external data, find missing files 😂 Anyways, i got it working in 4.0, the issue i didnt realize was that the edge wear doesnt show up in material preview, you have to have to view it in the rendered mode. i learned a lot from this tut.
Oh wow, you solved those issues pretty quick. Saw your initial post about 2 hours ago and was going to comment on the new 'normalize' setting. Looks like you've got it all sorted though 👍
hello, thanks for this very nice tutorial. I have a question; in the video you use the "mix color" node. In the "realisticProceduralMaterial.blend" file you use the "Math" node. What is the difference between them?
Oh wow, I’d forgotten I did that. You’re the first person to notice 😅 So generally the mix colour node mixes vector information - which is three bits of data. In this case red, green and blue colour data. The math node generally mixes number information, which only has the one bit of data. You can use the mix node to calculate mathematical data, but it means two of the three data slots are left empty - and is therefore wasteful. In this case it won’t make much difference, but the math node should be slight faster to calculate.
Help! I can't seem to get the "edge wear" section to work (don't see any difference on the model at least). I've tried both AO and Bevel (It's a hard surface robot), with no effect on either. I've checked what the mix and colorramp is set to, values on either and what they are plugged into. (I'm new to blender, but I'm familiar with node system via Unreal Engine)
Hey Goir. If you haven’t already, try downloading the shaderball and just make sure the material is working. There’s a few too many variables if you’re using your own model and I’d just be guessing. Also throw it into Cycles and render view. Some settings don’t work in Eevee and material view.
Hey! Could you please make a new tutorial on mastering materials in Blender 4.0? Since the software has changed, the old content is outdated. I'd love a comprehensive video using a gas station model to demonstrate all material techniques.
Hey there 😊 I’ve tested this tutorial in everything up to 4.2 and although there are a couple of new options, the tutorial itself still works. If you’re looking for something seriously in-depth, I know Blender Guru recently released a massive texturing tutorial for an old building: ua-cam.com/video/uHCJoNEWjXo/v-deo.htmlsi=I4_bGq7C8cc_Actp
Very nice video, just wanna point out that the blue yeti is not an end addressed microphone and it's side addressed instead. Please rotate the mic so you speak into the side with the mute button. Sorry but the audio nerd in me was screaming the entire time XD
Hey Fexi. I am not an audio nerd, and my house is annoyingly echoy, so I'm VERY happy to get audio advice. I'm confused though. The Yeti has a source direction option. I thought it could pick up audio from any direction (assuming it's set correctly)?
@@JamieDunbar the yeti defenetly can pick up sounds from all directions, tho that might be your issue. Generally speaking a larger polar pattern records more ambient noise which leads to your echoy sound. Try using your microphone in the cardioid pattern (the symbol for that looks like a heart where they rounded of the pointy bit) The optimal speaking distance is about 20 cm away from the microphone. Cardioid is a highly directional mode that records only from the front and not from the back, the reason you don't want that btw is that in omni directional mode (the circle on the selector switch) sound is traveling from your mouth past the microphone hits a wall and comes back into the microphone. And a mic can hear Much more reverberation than we can. Edit: almost forgot, try hitting minus 12 dB recording level in your recording software.
@@flexithefurry11yearsago10 Awesome, thanks mate. I also looked up some info on the Yeti and saw a nice simple "do/don't" picture with the side addressed vs end addressed. I get what you mean now. Looking forward to recording the next one with this new knowledge 🤩
I know what cycles crashing looks like. But what do you mean by ‘cycles loads’? My best guess is it could be a drivers issues. Have you updated the drivers on your graphics card recently?
@@JamieDunbar after some reseachr found that others have the same issue, bevel node + nvidia optimized setup dont like each other... (its hard to discribe, the cycles image freezes completely but everything world grid and 3d curser r still movebl, cycles just doenst update... and when turning render preview off blender crashes, weard but firgured around it somehow (just optix disable for viewport...)
@@bUildYT Ooohh, yeah I've seen Cycles break like that before. Yes, that sounds like it's a drivers issue. Updating your drivers may fix it...but it also might be a clashing of new features that hasn't been resolved yet. If updated drivers doesn't fix it, you may need to wait for a Blender update 🥲
@@JamieDunbar I think he means distance, not height. Basically, instead of using the strength to toggle the bump, which is a bit arbitrary, you set the distance to how deep (or protruding) the bumpiness should be. Distance is in meters, so anywhere from 0.001 to 0.01 (a mil to a centimeter) is generally the range of micro detailing like scratches. You then leave the strength at 1.
@@Arjjacks Ooohh, so it's not so much that it gives different results, it's just easier to measure? If you're using real world units, you can just dial it in to exactly what you want it to be?
@@JamieDunbar Precisely. If you want to get really creative, you can even use the distance from the camera to alter the distance of the bump dynamically, so that details close to the camera only have a depth of a millimetre, say, while details further away ramp up to a meter in depth/height. Which would look cancerous up close, but far away just looks like extra detail off in the distance. All dialable to exact measurements.
Hey Joe. Do you mean you can't get good results following this tutorial? Or just in general? The model plays a big role in which material setups work best. This model has a lot of beveled edges, so the bevel node setup works well. But it may not be as good for other models. For example, I'll usually use the Geometry nodes "Pointiness" slot for organic sculpts.
I was so grateful for the tips I learnt from @JamieDunbar, I revisited this tutorial. I found the bevel node technique was good, but not accurate, as wear/scratches occur in the sticking out edges, but not in the cracks. I tried using the Geometry>Pointiness node, one for edgewear, another INVERTED to add dirt in the concave crevices. I hooked it up to the "Dirt" and "Color" frames with a Color Mix node. The result is outstandingly realistic! Thanks again for showing us all those techniques and giving us the understanding to go further.
That's brilliant @Tiki_Media 🤩
I tried to make the material setup in this video simple enough that anyone with a little experience could do it and get nice results. And if you just copy what's taught here you'll get nice results - but not brilliant results.
My hope is that people will take the lessons on how to build masks and take them to the next level. It's in mixing them, flipping them and combining them with nodes not even mentioned in this video that you can start to make truly beautiful materials.
I feel like you've really embraced the true lessons in this video ☺
Good advice
Finally someone who EXPLAINS what the individual node settings do WHILE showing the process in detail! Thank you so much, one of the best tutorials I have seen so far!
Thank God I found your channel. What I love most is you’re explaining exactly why you are adding each node and what you’re using it for. Nodes are my biggest problem. I can usually find my way to model anything but when it comes to geometry nodes I just get all confused as to what to plug into what and what node I need to use to achieve my goals
Thanks so much @dialac1 😁
I was listening to Andrew Price's podcast where he mentioned he'd had a lot of trouble wrapping his head around Geometry Nodes. And listening to him, it sounded like he'd had the same problem you're having - very few people explain WHY they're doing things.
It's just: plug this isn't that, and that into this and hey-presto! You've got a realistic hamburger!
And I'm like...that's great. But HOW!?
It's not often I comment on tutorials but this....this is the gold standard for Blender Tutorials!
Thank you! I feel honored 😊
Excellent video. I like how you explain not only what to do, but why it works that way and what it’s doing. Thank you!
Lol, it's so hard not going off on tangents. There's SOO much extra stuff I want to explain.
Thank you :)
Your video tutorials are amazing! The mixture of being clear and concise with humour, great cutaways, and your knowledge makes learning this so much easier and I have recently watched all of yours that cover the basics - I found the mushroom first.lol. But the skills you teach are so much more than just basic. This video made something I have been struggling with so much easier to understand and I really appreciate the time you have spent making all of your vids - your are awesome! And thank you.
Thanks so much Jadyn. There’s quite a bit of agonising that goes into what to say and what to leave out of these videos. I’m glad what’s being left in is hitting its mark 😊
Probably the best explained shader node video I've found. Appreciate your work!
Naw, thanks Ash. Really appreciate that 🥰
Really simple and direct way to do awesome textures. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your service to the Blender community!
Really opened my eyes to what I've been missing. I love how this tut is both helpful and also comes off very "Now draw the rest of the owl" xD
Lmao, I love that comparison. Thanks 😆
thank you! one of the best videos about procedural textures on UA-cam!!
Naw, thanks mate. That’s really nice to hear 😊
Pro tip, hold “alt” and RMB for a quick connection between the nodes (with node wrangler).
Btw, this is one of the cleanest tutorial I’ve seen on yt, thank you man!
Thank you!
And solid tip. I *never* use that shortcut. I really should.
Help! My graphics card cought on fire and so did my brain! Thank you very much for this awesome tutorial!!!
Have you tried turning them off and on again? 😜
Seriously though, thanks for the kind words.
It has helped me to settle all those nodes in my head finally. Good video!❤
That's exactly the type of feedback I like to hear @themalandrajo
Once you start to wrap your head around a handful of nodes, it becomes infinitely easier to learn the others. Good luck!
So precise and well explained. I might finally understand procedural material in Blender.
That's awesome Ahmed!
I was worried this might have been too much information too fast, but that's really exciting to hear 😁
@@JamieDunbar I think these kinda short and precise videos are better than 2hr long tutorials. I believe it has sth to do with your language skill. Each sentence was clear and you explained every step with the reason you did it. Hoping to see more of it. And thanks for the awesome content.
@@ahmedhafiz2419 Thanks mate, that's really helpful feedback. I've been trying to learn better ways of making tutorials and this is the first video I've implemented it all in.
By the sounds of it, it's working 🤞
The logic is really amazing, and easy to understand. Thank you for the lesson mate.
That's great to hear. I was worried this one was getting a little too confusing, so very happy to hear it's hitting the mark.
Also...."mate"? Do we have another Aussie in the house? 😄
Lol, no sir @@JamieDunbar , I guess this is the result of having Statham movies too much.
@@frozthound Roflmao. Either way, I like it 🤣
Great tutorial, one of the best I've seen on this topic so far 👍
Wow, thanks so much!
Thanks man, really struglled with some other tutorials but now i understand way better. Thanks !
Thank you. Just the right balance of speed and explanation for me. Subscribed.
Yay, welcome to the channel 🤩
Amazing video! I have been looking for some more videos that show the process of creating realistic materials. One note I would add is that using image textures for the color node brings the whole material to another level, but this is still great for being procedural 👍
Amazing tutorial! I just have a quick tip: The "dirt" should be an independent bsdf that should be added to the mixed metal and paint bsdfs. There are two reasons to do so. Your approach leads to dirt missing everywhere where there is no paint over the metal. In the real world there would normally be scratches in the paint and dirt all over the object. Your pattern would only occure if the object would be dirty and then scratched heavily. If intended this would need a more complex setup because the dirt would have been pushed and smeared around by the forces creating the damage in the paint. The second point is that every material should be its own bsdf. A bsdf tells blender how light interacts with a surface. It is not a color it is a material. By adding dirt color to the paint color you are not generating dirt but rather dirt colored paint. Dirt is an other material than paint (obviously :D) and has its own physical properties that can only be rendered realistically by adding an extra bsdf for it.
Yeah, all of this is a solid point. Admittedly adding the dirt at the end was a bit of an afterthought, and the masking isn't set up perfectly for it. It gets the job done, but it's not as accurate as it should be.
I don't think you *need* an extra BSDF. You could get around it with better masking. But it's also a perfectly viable way of doing it too and is likely a little easier to set up.
Beautiful! Thanks for this.
Awesome video, please more tutorials on procedural materials! Loved both this one and about the realistic glass
Thank you! Any requests?
@@JamieDunbar i would really use more understand of subsurface scattering. i really love this effect, but i don't fully understand how to use it to the fullest and there seem to be not too many tutorials on this subject :)
@@crdhdxyz Ooohh, that's a good idea. I'll add that to my list.
Nice tutorial easy to follow, will definitely break the fear of procedural nodes
That's awesome @agathiyan2493.
Out of curiosity, what's made you fearful of procedural nodes in the past? Maybe I can make a few other videos in this series.
@@JamieDunbar the math nodes, thanks man
an interesting effect during color variation as shown in 2:53 it is vary hue and luminosity, because luminosity only vary in real life on porpouse, when diving into color and how much depth you can provide is a known trick by speedpainters and pixelartist to combine hues to blueish darker colors and redish lighter colours. that way you can also keep lighten differences in colors very low because the hue involved will change the percived color by the human eye as much darker/lighter then the other
That's some top tier colour theory right there! Very cool tip.
Great video. All the most important things are explained briefly and clearly.
Thank you! And I'm glad it's all coming through clearly. There was...a lot of editing on this one.
This was way more advanced than I thought it was going to be hahaha. So many nodes and steps. Definitely NOT 3 easy steps. It still worked out in the end, but that was wayyyyy more involved than I thought it was going to be. I'm not sure I'm going to remember how to do this again on my own, but I appreciate the walkthrough.
It would probably be more accurate if it were called “three principles” to realistic materials. I’d definitely put this under more of an intermediate tutorial than beginner level. But well done sticking it out to the end!
And don’t worry about remembering everything step by step. I couldn’t reproduce this perfectly from memory! Try and take the principles from it. Things like using noise to break up textures. Layering materials for realism. Using some sort of edge detection to place things like dirt and scratches.
Once you know the overarching principles it becomes a lot easier to look up the individual steps. And you can apply those principles in any software 😁
Best Texturing tutorial on youtube.
Naw, thank you. That’s extremely kind 😊
Superb tutorial. Thank you for creating it, and keeping it short, much appreciated!
If you wish to optimize your shader node work flow, I highly suggest using the letter "O" hot key for Previewing Node Output, rather than CTRL+SHIFT+Left Mouse. 1 key press instead of 3! I wish more people would use this efficiency... ☺
Okay, where has that been hiding? I had no idea the "O" key also did node previews 😵
That said, I just tested it and...the "O" key is on the opposite side of my keyboard. I usually have my hand resting near my most common shortcuts, like A, S, G, X, E, etc.
Crazy thought...do you think the "O" shortcut might be there for left handers?
@@JamieDunbar Haha! I am in fact left handed, perhaps that's why it works better than CTRL + SHIFT + Left Mouse, because the CTRL and SHIFT are also on the right side of the keyboard, but "O" is handier, no pun intended. I just discovered that when Node Wrangler is enabled, you can switch the keyboard shortcuts in Edit > Preferences > Keymap area. They are mixed in with standard node editor shortcuts. A right-handed person could, for example, make "W" the Preview Node Output key, if they wanted a small speed tweak. 🤓
@@Tiki_Media Ahahah! I called it 😁
One of my close friends from University is a left hander, so I have some familiarity with how difficult a right-handed keyboard/mouse defaults can be. Especially for gamers!
I’m left handed but use my mouse with my right hand! It’s super annoying as it means I can’t use a tablet / pen as a mouse. Also cntl+shift+click is still just one key press action so I’m not sure there’s much of a saving with O. Whatever works for you best I guess
@@thehomme Well, technically it's not one key press it is three. Also there are plenty of necessary Blender keys located all across the keyboard and not just on the left-hand side. Whatever works for you the best I guess.
Awesome tutorial. Looks so complex, but thanks for tip on Frames, it all starts to make sense
That's awesome to hear @crummymudd8625
I almost left that part out, as I was worried it might be too much for a beginner tutorial. But frames do such a good job of organising everything in your head. I'm very glad I left it in 😊
Love the pacing bro!
That's great to hear mate! I was trying out a new, faster paced editing style with this one and it's lovely to hear it's hitting it's mark.
Thank you so much!. Is it possible to create Procedural Fingerprints on a model?
Procedural fingerprints....probably not. Fingerprints are extremely complex shapes.
However, AmbientCG has a couple of nice fingerprint materials you could add into your shader. Grab them here:
ambientcg.com/view?id=Fingerprints007
And this tutorial goes over how to apply them:
ua-cam.com/video/uOCT3SIr3kU/v-deo.html
YOU ARE THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!@@JamieDunbar
@@hotsauce7124 Lol, you're most welcome 😄
great video, very detailed and good pacing
Great tutorial. Thanks a lot!
Я хоть не англичанин, но всё равно большое спасибо за такой урок. Теперь мои рендеры станут чуточку лучше)))
Пожалуйста. Удачи. 😁
Thanks! This can be used as a template tool for materials in projects. And adjust node parameters accordingly.
Yeah definitely. There's still a ton more stuff you could do to take this material to another level. But it's a really solid place to start from.
Great Tutorial, perfect compilation and application of new information
Very comprehensive tutorial. Thank you for that. Subscribed.
Yay! Welcome to the club :D
Thank you for this. I can now generate geometry for cracks along a surface in geometry nodes.
Oh that’s cool. I don’t know Geometry Nodes all that well, but it’d be really cool if some of these techniques could transfer over 🤩
Yes, Voronoi texture works about the same. So just SetPosition with offset= normal scaled by texture. @@JamieDunbar
great contribution. Great tutorial. You have my like. Thank you so much
Yay! Thanks heaps 🤩
This is really a great video I need to make materials in the 3D process but just want to optimize the software
🎉🎉
Love the tutorial. Just wanted to post a update on if it's not working for you. (I had to troubleshoot this) if you download the blender project provided, just grab the model and recreate everything in another project. For whatever reason, the materials don't create the same output. I think it's a version difference that causes the mess up but if you know why this worked on a new project and not the one provided please let me know.
Oh that's interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I'm guessing you're working in Blender 4.0?
This was made in 3.6, and I know I've seen one or two materials break with the big Principled shader update.
I'll take a look and upload two versions of the file 😉
@@JamieDunbar I have just followed the tutorial and in most cases to get a similar result, you have to make sure to disable "Normalize" in the noise texture node.
However the very last step for dirt is not working at all and i havent yet figured out how to fix that
Thanks @@Robonator14. I'm still figuring out what the "normalize" checkbox does under the hood. In some cases it seems to improve the material. In other cases (like the scratches) it turned it completely black. The ramp also plays a big part, so I'd suggest tweaking that slightly if normalize isn't giving you the desired results.
I'm not sure what's going on with the dirt in your scene though. The "final" material works at my end. I even tried recreating it from scratch to make sure and didn't have any problems 🤷♂
I just took a look at the download file in 4.0. Out of curiosity, does the "final" material work okay for you? Is it just when you create the material yourself, or do both break?
The "final" material seems to still be working at my end, so I'm having a little trouble trying to recreate your issue.
@@JamieDunbar I made it work now by changing the texture coordinate for the dirt block from "object" to "generated", because i saw someone else in another tutorial do it this way. Now it looks as it should. Before that it would apply the "texture" all over the model and i could not get it to only cover part of the object like it is in the video, no matter how much i played around with the other settings.
To answer your other question, the final worked just fine for me. Looks as it should just a little more scratched up than it is in the video, almost as if the paint is cracking.
I know I’m a year late, but holy cow was this video fantastic! Thank you!
You’re not late! I try and make these tutorials to last the test of time so…(checks the latest Blender version)…oh wow, there’s already been three updates!? Wow that happen fast 🤯
Where did you learn the use and how to connect and manipulate nodes to get your desired result?
I spent about 7 years learning Maya before moving over to Blender. Once you learn enough Maya, you start to see that everything is nodes.
So not just materials, or a tool like Geometry Nodes. But literally everything from extruding a face through to rigging is connecting nodes. Most of it happens in the background so the user doesn't have to deal with it - but there's editors you can jump into to see the node tree.
It's where Maya's true power comes from. Because you can literally connect any node to any other node. Sometimes in ways that crash the program
😅
So when I moved over to Blender, I had to learn the names of the nodes, but they do the exact same thing. Once you've learned on system it becomes a lot easier to learn a second. (And if you really want an experience, try learning Houdini 🤣)
Thank You very much, Jamie!
''the bump node really helps bring up cracks'' - got me laughing, let's continue with the tutorial lmao
Roflmao. That never even occurred to me 😂
You earned a subscriber mate
Yay! Thanks Ace. Hopefully see you around 😁
I thought this was great. What I’d suggest is the final step is replaced with a painted texture to the object the material is being applied to, a bit more work but you can get a more natural look that suit the objects actual surface
Yeah there's still a lot more people could do to take this material to another level. It still bugs me that I didn't connect anything to the roughness map!
best video on this topic! thanks
This was fantastic, thank you!
Thanks, this video helped alot with some of my stuff!
Great tutorial!!
Great tutorial, however the other two mthods (Ambient Occlusion and Pointiness) were never discussed. Especially how to get better edge selection out of Ambient Occlusion for those that can't render in cycles.
Have you downloaded the project files? There’s a setup in there for both pointiness and ambient occlusion you can use.
Ultimately the method is very similar. Use either the AO or Geometry node and control the contrast with a ramp or map range node 👍
@@JamieDunbar OK great! I will download those! Thanks so much!
Someone please tell this man how to pronounce voronoi. Great tutorial though, never knew how to get good edge detection working before so this was very helpful.
Great tutorial, but I think it needs a couple more Colour Ramp nodes for good measure ;)
No, we need more colour ramps! MMOOAARR!!!
And these textures can then be baked in different maps (diffuse, normal, metallic, roughness) and then brought to Unreal Engine for example?
Yes, absolutely 👍
Thank you for this great tut
Generally, I suck at Blender, but I'm starting to get a real hang of Fusion 360 (my prefered 3d program). Yet it's still so interesting to watch the ways people make 'close to professional' art with a free software. Plus, I'm coming back to it occasionally if I feel like torturing my mind with it xD (aka challenging it beyond it's capabilities)
Fusion is one of the few 3D programs I haven't touched at all.
It's breathtaking how much people can create using free tools these days. Blender. Davinci Resolve for editing. Krita or Gimp for images and photos. Heck there's even some basic motion capture tools that are free.
It's genuinely possible to make Hollywood level visuals for nickles and dimes these days. (Okay, maybe dollars and cents. Inflation you know 🤑)
Awesome Tutorial!!! Thank you!!!!
Whoaa, so clear, thank you
Such a relief to hear. I really wanted this to be as beginner friendly as possible and about halfway through I was thinking...man this is getting complex 😅
Hopefully everyone finds it as understandable as you have.
Great presentation Jamie 👍
Thank you kindly 🥰
why my bsdf has only color, metalic, roughness, IOR, alpha and normal inputs?
Hey mate. This tutorial was made in Blender 3.6. It sounds like you're using Blender 4.0.
The BSDF went through a design overhaul in the last update, so it looks quite a bit different.
Don't worry though, it still has all the inputs you need, they're just arranged slightly different. Everything in this tutorial should still work
very clean tutorial!
Great tutorial Jamie
Hi Sam 👋
Thanks mate.
Not 100% sure but you can also use a math node instead of mix color node on the tear and wear, if im correct the math node takes less time to compile than the mix color node.
Yes you could! There's also just the "mix" node, which works with float values rather than colour. I think either of those would offer a small performance improvement. I assume because a float is one value, while colour uses R,G and B.
I'm not sure you'd notice a big difference with a relatively small node tree like this, but once you start getting big enough node trees it probably becomes really important.
question is when to use procedural instead of going over adobe painter ?
A really good question, and one I often ask myself. Usually it comes down to speed vs quality.
If it’s a background object I’ll often just quickly do it in Blender, rather than doing the export/import dance.
But for characters or close up objects I’ll throw it into Substance.
Amazing video, thank you so much for this! I have a question though, I made a sub-d robot with thousands of parts that I want to texture for high quality purposes, I thought about bringing it into painter but i don't have the hardware to handle about 100+ UDIMS in 4k so I decided to texture everything procedural, first of all is this a valid option for such a hero asset? And secondly, is there any advice u can give me to make the texturing look realistic in this case instead of just a procedural material over everything? I will definitely add a few more material variations of this video just to randomize it up a little but im still kinda nervous it might look too simple
Oh wow, that’s a lot of UVs!
I usually use 4K UDIMs on my models. I tend to run out of GPU RAM around 20 tiles. So 100 of them will almost certainly kill your computer, or at least force you to render on the CPU.
I’d say your best bet here would be to use some procedural materials as a base, then layer additional custom details over the top. So you’d maybe put a logo on the chest piece, but not on the other parts. That way you’ll get those extra details, but still largely have procedural materials.
I’d also look into decals (an extra piece of geometry layered over the top of the original with a different material. Kind of like a sticker).
Thank you for the tutorial. My edges don't highlight after adding the bevels. I've rewatched the section over and over. Using 4.0.2
I'm using 4.02 myself now and it still works at my end.
Are you using the provided file or your own model? Sometimes one of the other methods may work better for certain models. Try using the Geometry->Pointiness or Ambient Occlusion method. Or download the scene files to make sure your setup is the same.
Your amazing, thank you ❤
Thank you, Jamie! Super fantastic and helpful video! 🙂👍❤️
Great stuff, thank you!
Yes, and that can export like 3D models. For that reason, i don't like procedural materials. you can bake all teksture, but if you don't have substance painter, it has sense.
Very good, thanks bro!
loved it 🤩
Thank you some great stuff here, (please can you consider being explicit about the node connections for new users? I'm trying to follow you but often not clear of which node exactly you are referring to, maybe you could zoom out further more to help with context).
Thanks for the feedback Alex. Ironically I've been trying to zoom in a lot more, as sometimes people have trouble reading the nodes. But I fully appreciate being able to see the entire tree to get context of where you are. I guess there must be a happy medium somewhere in there.
@@JamieDunbar Thanks Jamie for the message back. Maybe a simple node setup screenshot of this (and future) videos?
@@richochet Yeah I can definitely add a couple of seconds near the end of "and here's our final node setup!"
For this video though, don't forget you can download the scene files and go through the nodes at your own leisure.
Thanks Jamie, or even a screenshot download link could help, but anyway cheers and noted.
what a amazing video.. love this
Congratulations, the animation of the first 3 seconds of the video, including the following motorbike are really professionally animated with Blender. But the following one is only semi-professional.
Ahahaha, sorry mate, those are all video clips. I'm not quite THAT good 😅
ROFL@@JamieDunbar
Great tutorial!
This was very well explained! Thank you. Maybe some more intermediate steps to understand better the origin of the masks mixes, but that we can do ourselves. Thank you!
as i am a new cg artist All this work that you have done should i practice with byhard and remember..(or)? And By learning like this daily, can i automatically design with new things with my self for my future films without watching tutorials...? Pls say
Hi Dinesh. It will take time and lots of practice. But yes, eventually you'll learn how to use the tools well enough you'll be able to make stuff on your own without having to watch tutorials.
That said, you never stop learning. I'm currently trying to learn how to do feathers and I'm having to watch a few tutorials to learn.
@@JamieDunbar thank you sir
Amazing work thank u so much
Thanks Strawberry 😁
Was really struggling with the bevel section, none of my adjustments where doing anything to my object and couldn’t figure out why! So frustrating
the two most common issues people seem to be having are either being in material view, or using Eevee.
The bevel node is a render only feature, and only works in Cycles.
And don't forget, there's the scene files available for download if you want to make sure you've got the setup correct 😊
@@JamieDunbar OMGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
I got it Thank u!!
@@Weneedrest 🥳🎉
Great Tut Thank You!
Very cool, it's a pity it doesn't work out to achieve the effect that dirt covers scratches
Yeah, unfortunately I didn't pick up on that when I made the tutorial.
It's not too hard to get it to work though. You'll need to combine the dirt and random damage masks with a mix node. Setting the mix node to subtract seems to work.
Thank you for the tutorial. For the part you talked about the gradient, something is odd is happening with me. When I try to set it, the gradient will be show as it is going from black to gray rather than from black to white. When i changed the size of the ball to much bigger, and apply all transformation with the new size, it gave me the correct flow for gradient I am expecting and that goes along with your tutorial. however, I see you not changing the size, yet, it works fine for you and I failed to figure out the different or the problem. do you have any idea bout this? Again, I would like to thank you for your video, as i really learned a lot from it.
Well, figured it out already. It is my mistake, as did apply the scale over the object which is 0.1 m. After the application of the all transformation, the scale became 1.0 m. All these small issues can cause of a lot of problem for new learners like me. Frankly, before i post the question, i spend countless hours trying for know where is the problem and this really drain my time in such a simple thing. The wrong distinction between the scale and the dimension of an object cause all this hallucinations. When the scale is different than 1.0 m, a lot of issues arise can lead to different application of materials and textures. Again, thank you for great work, keep it up.
Glad to hear you figured it out. Applying scale is one of the most annoying things in 3D (up there will flipped normals and unmerged vertices).
Unfortunately it’s one we can’t really get rid of either. There are times when you can use scale to your advantage for specific effects or rigging.
super efficient thanks
love this channel
Naw, thank you so much 😁
great tut. once i got to 9:06, my shaderball looks identical aside from the random damage, instead of it showing the metal underneath where the random damage is, it shows the darker color set on the mix color node for the paint. what are some potential causes of that? edit: nvm found it, its 4.0 causing the issue, by default "normalize" is checked in the noise texture and if you leave it on, it doesnt behave correctly.
i can get the paint and metallic look, but despite having the nodes set up exactly the same, and having it in cycles. cant get the edge wear to show up. using 4.0. i assume thats the issue. im going to try again on 3.6.
edit: i ended up getting the pink/purple texture bug when trying in 3.6, its always hilarious when it says it cant find a texture that isnt meant to be present in the first place haha. though its kind of annoying that rather than being able to tell blender not to look for a texture, one isnt supposed to be there, your only option is to external data, find missing files 😂 Anyways, i got it working in 4.0, the issue i didnt realize was that the edge wear doesnt show up in material preview, you have to have to view it in the rendered mode.
i learned a lot from this tut.
Oh wow, you solved those issues pretty quick. Saw your initial post about 2 hours ago and was going to comment on the new 'normalize' setting. Looks like you've got it all sorted though 👍
hello, thanks for this very nice tutorial. I have a question; in the video you use the "mix color" node. In the "realisticProceduralMaterial.blend" file you use the "Math" node. What is the difference between them?
Oh wow, I’d forgotten I did that. You’re the first person to notice 😅
So generally the mix colour node mixes vector information - which is three bits of data. In this case red, green and blue colour data.
The math node generally mixes number information, which only has the one bit of data.
You can use the mix node to calculate mathematical data, but it means two of the three data slots are left empty - and is therefore wasteful.
In this case it won’t make much difference, but the math node should be slight faster to calculate.
@@JamieDunbar thanks 🙂
I'm already using your methods.
Help!
I can't seem to get the "edge wear" section to work (don't see any difference on the model at least). I've tried both AO and Bevel (It's a hard surface robot), with no effect on either.
I've checked what the mix and colorramp is set to, values on either and what they are plugged into. (I'm new to blender, but I'm familiar with node system via Unreal Engine)
Hey Goir. If you haven’t already, try downloading the shaderball and just make sure the material is working. There’s a few too many variables if you’re using your own model and I’d just be guessing.
Also throw it into Cycles and render view. Some settings don’t work in Eevee and material view.
@@JamieDunbar Thanks, I'll give it a go!
Hey! Could you please make a new tutorial on mastering materials in Blender 4.0? Since the software has changed, the old content is outdated. I'd love a comprehensive video using a gas station model to demonstrate all material techniques.
Hey there 😊
I’ve tested this tutorial in everything up to 4.2 and although there are a couple of new options, the tutorial itself still works.
If you’re looking for something seriously in-depth, I know Blender Guru recently released a massive texturing tutorial for an old building:
ua-cam.com/video/uHCJoNEWjXo/v-deo.htmlsi=I4_bGq7C8cc_Actp
@@JamieDunbar Thank you
Very nice video, just wanna point out that the blue yeti is not an end addressed microphone and it's side addressed instead. Please rotate the mic so you speak into the side with the mute button.
Sorry but the audio nerd in me was screaming the entire time XD
Hey Fexi. I am not an audio nerd, and my house is annoyingly echoy, so I'm VERY happy to get audio advice.
I'm confused though. The Yeti has a source direction option. I thought it could pick up audio from any direction (assuming it's set correctly)?
@@JamieDunbar the yeti defenetly can pick up sounds from all directions, tho that might be your issue. Generally speaking a larger polar pattern records more ambient noise which leads to your echoy sound. Try using your microphone in the cardioid pattern (the symbol for that looks like a heart where they rounded of the pointy bit)
The optimal speaking distance is about 20 cm away from the microphone.
Cardioid is a highly directional mode that records only from the front and not from the back, the reason you don't want that btw is that in omni directional mode (the circle on the selector switch) sound is traveling from your mouth past the microphone hits a wall and comes back into the microphone. And a mic can hear Much more reverberation than we can.
Edit: almost forgot, try hitting minus 12 dB recording level in your recording software.
@@flexithefurry11yearsago10 Awesome, thanks mate. I also looked up some info on the Yeti and saw a nice simple "do/don't" picture with the side addressed vs end addressed. I get what you mean now.
Looking forward to recording the next one with this new knowledge 🤩
@@JamieDunbar looking forward to watch it
The next question is how to bake the metallic, roughness, and specular out so that it can be combined in a texture map for importing into UE5.
+1
when i use the bevel node with optix cycles loads or chrashes, why?
I know what cycles crashing looks like. But what do you mean by ‘cycles loads’?
My best guess is it could be a drivers issues. Have you updated the drivers on your graphics card recently?
@@JamieDunbar after some reseachr found that others have the same issue, bevel node + nvidia optimized setup dont like each other...
(its hard to discribe, the cycles image freezes completely but everything world grid and 3d curser r still movebl, cycles just doenst update... and when turning render preview off blender crashes, weard but firgured around it somehow (just optix disable for viewport...)
@@bUildYT Ooohh, yeah I've seen Cycles break like that before. Yes, that sounds like it's a drivers issue. Updating your drivers may fix it...but it also might be a clashing of new features that hasn't been resolved yet. If updated drivers doesn't fix it, you may need to wait for a Blender update 🥲
What an intro! Good work!
Like & Subscription😻
Haha, thank you. And welcome to the channel! 😁
thank you for the video
☺🥰
8:40 adjust height, not strength to be more physically correct!
Hey mate, can you explain how that works? I've seen the same thing in a few other videos, but when I try it myself I just don't see the difference.
@@JamieDunbar I think he means distance, not height. Basically, instead of using the strength to toggle the bump, which is a bit arbitrary, you set the distance to how deep (or protruding) the bumpiness should be. Distance is in meters, so anywhere from 0.001 to 0.01 (a mil to a centimeter) is generally the range of micro detailing like scratches. You then leave the strength at 1.
@@Arjjacks Ooohh, so it's not so much that it gives different results, it's just easier to measure? If you're using real world units, you can just dial it in to exactly what you want it to be?
@@JamieDunbar Precisely. If you want to get really creative, you can even use the distance from the camera to alter the distance of the bump dynamically, so that details close to the camera only have a depth of a millimetre, say, while details further away ramp up to a meter in depth/height. Which would look cancerous up close, but far away just looks like extra detail off in the distance. All dialable to exact measurements.
@@Arjjacks I need one of those memes with the electricity firing through the neurons. That's some next level trickery there!
wohhhh its brilliant
I've tried a million methods for edge wear using the bevel node, but I have never once gotten these types of results out of it. What am I doing wrong?
Hey Joe. Do you mean you can't get good results following this tutorial? Or just in general?
The model plays a big role in which material setups work best. This model has a lot of beveled edges, so the bevel node setup works well. But it may not be as good for other models.
For example, I'll usually use the Geometry nodes "Pointiness" slot for organic sculpts.