Thanks so much for the finishing tips! I would have never thought of leaving the dust. It's also great to see how nice baltic birch plywood looks when dyed. I'm going to give it a try. What a treat to get 2 video's from you in a short amount of time. Thanks to your wife for her assistance. Always enjoy your video's and learn a lot. I'm also LOVING my table saw sled I made using your plans!!! I have no idea how I ever got along without it!
Tight bond dark wood glue. Put some into the area you want to fill. Let it tack up, then before it dries sand the area with no dust collection on your sander. The dust will cover the tight bond and make color matched filler. The glue doesn't react to laquer, and will not be noticeable. Also fish glue will work using the same technique, the dry time is a bit long but it will work. I would show some pictures if I could. Ive used it on Eastern maple, white oak, red oak walnut, and so on. Usually amazed with the result. Im a full joiner and have been working with wood as long as i can remember
That is certainly a different technique !! I've never heard of that before. "Everyone" always says wipe it down, air spray it clean, use tack cloths, etc... I'll have to try that if I ever can find Deft for less than $14 a can (if I can find it at all - several places have stopped carrying it... Sheesh I can't believe how much it costs now. Oh !! And you, my friend, can "Ramble On" any time you like with your videos !! Thank you, Stacey, for the excellent camera work and direction !! Thanks for video !!
Thank you for speedy reply. I was just at a loss and pitched the can. Removed 3 coats, sanded again and will use poly I think. This is turning to a life’s work. Just wanted to touch up a desk top not have a major project! Anyway live and learn. Marie Brain
If that dutchman was centered, you could hole saw it out and put a cord passthrough there? Just a thought. Great finish Nick and good to see you come up in my feed! Take care and stay safe my friend!
I don't use laquer, but I have. Yeah, it does burn into the previous coat, so leaving the dust on kind of makes sense if you're grain filling with it. I never thought of that. When I dye wood with water based dye, I usually dampen it with water first, it seems to go on more even. You may have to apply more than once, because the dye is automatically thinned out. You need to remove the raised grain too after. A green Scotch Brite pad seems to do the trick.
I am anxious to see how you built the top for the desk. I want to use the idea for a re-do ofcoffee table on wrought iron legs. I'd like to see how you built up the 3/4" plywood. Thanks.
1:37 Sand before you put the Stain on... To FIX that ... sand the top.... Keep the wood dust from sanding Put 50/50 water and white glue, yes WHITE mix Put the mixture tiny bit in the cavity/hole and push in the dust/wood shavings into the hole Mound it up... it will soak in... let dry... SAND it the next day... I used to have a Furniture Refinishing Shop... I NEVER use Wood Glue... EVER... White Glue is EXCELLENT...
You video jumped from a satin looking finish to a high shine finish...was that just additional coats added or did you do something to finish it off to that nice shine?
What brand/color dye or stain were you spreading with the foam brush? OR, what brand dye or stain works with baltic birch plywood (building an indoor bench)?
Gave up on brush on lacquer. Used to use Deft all the time. Last few years every time I use it I get nothing but fisheyes! Did they change the formula. I need an easy way to use lacquer. Maybe this spray in will work better. What brand do you use? So tired of removing bad finishes and do overs. Just an occasional refinished for my home. So not a ton of projects. Really enjoyed the video.
thanks - this is deft - amzn.to/2VbAK0A - they were bought by PPG a while back & I know it was hard to come by for a while but now it's back - with that, it appears there may have been a formulation change to keep up with changing regulations, but that's anecdotal speculation - what I do know is the gloss is more prone to fisheyes - it seems the flatenening agent in the satin makes it less susceptible
@@JudiChristopher you didn’t upset me, you just didn’t pay attention to a video & you reference the moment in the video where I answer the question you asked - foolish really - bare minimum, the satirical value in the irony is abundant
Thanks Nick for the quick tutorial on finishing! Love that color what is it if I can ask? For the "patch in the middle one could if they had one is to put a logo over it. What is your thoughts? I was so excited to see that you had another video! Thanks again my woodworking brother!
Quicker, as in a thicker build, yes - but epoxy is a different animal altogether - I don’t know if this is the most eloquent way of wording it, but I would consider epoxy to be like a hard film finish versus lacquer being a soft film finish - this is of course, an non-catalyzed lacquer - if for purely aesthetic reasons, lacquer gives a supple & rather soft grain - epoxy gives me more of an encased, or entombed archival vibe - ✌🏼
Ramblin man- I am interested in what drove you to try the buildup technique. "Of course - why didn't I think of that before!!!" Aha moments, right? Considering what "fillers" are, why not? And plywood with its mixed soft and hard grains - sure! Great job . .. How many coats did it finally take again??
Lacquer has been my go to finish for as long as I can remember - The modern nitrocellulose lacquer dries extremely fast and you can build many coats in a short period of time - I have no idea where I came up with the idea it’s just something I’ve been doing for a long time and I would imagine that it was out of sheer laziness of wiping off every little speck of dust between sanding - I legitimately tried to keep track of how many coats I had on I would say right around 8 to maybe 10 - with 15 minutes between coats and I give it 45 minutes to an hour before I do any sanding
I watched this because I am buying a boat. The cabin has cheap, unfinished, exposed plywood that usually you spend lots of money on trying to cover it up. But I am doing this on a budget so I got to thinking... can't I just stain/gel/dye and clear coat the plywood itself? Naw, you can't do that. Why? No one does. Right?? Well I searched and found you. And yep, you can finish plywood and make it look nice without a lot of veneers and epoxys and trimming, etc. Thanks for the video!
Ok, 2 in a week? Maybe I should shut up and count my blessings. I am going to try that technique. As a one trick pony, wipe on poly guy, I'll try and broaden my horizons. You sure make it look easy. Thanks a million. Dean Kramasz
Hey Nick! Great video. I really like the finish and I'm trying to get a similar look but I'm kind of severely color blind so I can't easily match it. So what is the dye color youre using here?
That turned out nice Nick, I’ll have to try your technique out. I don’t believe it will upset any of the gods or knock earth off of it’s axes. Keep up the good work.
Great dark rich color for plywood, looks awesome , maybe clarify a little bit more, It is a quicker build, I think it is easier to do, I really like your stuff you’re doing a great job thanks so much for sharing
Thanks for this walkthrough, Nick. I always get nervous after wiping off the excess of the dye/stain cause, like you said, it looks bad. Reassuring that after all the treatment and it's sealed it looks beautiful like it does here. Nice job!! 🤘
Cool video and amazing results, only thing is, it wasn't clear to me how you got from 8:10 to 8:25. Maybe more information would help clarify the steps.
@@NickFerry How many coats in total would you say you put on, you mentioned 6 in the video.Again, I'm very impressed with the results you obtained out of a spray can.
One option that you could have considered was to take that notch out of the center and replace it with another piece of wood. What you could’ve done was match the grain around the notch with a similar grain replacement piece. If done right, you could have nearly hidden the lines. It’s a lot of work however, you seem to have something to put over it.
Bro you are a beast with the lacquer! Love the video. You are the only one I have seen who has a shop like mine (cluttered). 😂 I see the Laguna cyclone in the back how does that work for you? I recently got the grizzly 3hp but it is not a cyclone.
Hi Nick great to see you on your feet you looking very well, I enjoyed this video very much ... I missed your videos for a while. God Bless you Jack Marashlian from OZ
One thing that you are doing when you sand between coats is to knock off some of the lacquer AND any wood dust nibs. If you don’t wipe it after sanding then you are leaving the dust on your project. Not good for the final finish. You are correct in saying that it is reconstituting the lacquer dust but why not get rid of the wood dust and put more coats of lacquer on if you want a heavier finish.
@@NickFerry Hey Nick! Thanks for the video. Have tried leaving the dust on technique that you used and that works great. If using water based dye, I usually wet the bare wood with some distilled water and wipe it down and let it dry which raises the grain. Then a light sanding with 220 before dying. This takes care of the wood nibs and the water base dye will not re-raise the grain. All makes a smoother and more even dye coating. Keep up the great videos
That's not a patch..that's a custom feature found only in this piece which cannot be found in any other comparable project. (Beautiful finish; well done)
When your spraying lacquer, spray in a way where you cover up your overspray. Your spraying it backwards. But to each his own... just my two cents and it’s what I have had the best luck with.
@@NickFerry I repair furniture for a living and sometimes I catch people doing things differently then i do them, I dont think there really is a "wrong way". Believe me I have tried just about every way of doing most stuff and have found what works best for me. But also i dont have to worry about camera angles lol
Artist/Craftsman choice & that makes YOUR CHOICE concerning leaving the lacquer dust!!! I think it makes great sense. No different than putting glue in a defect, gouge, ding or scratch & then sanding the area which your basically make "Wood Filler" when doing it that way. This the lacquer dust (like you said) is filling the pores. Just mho, hopefully I made sense!!
@@NickFerry Thank you, Sir! Coming from a man at your skill level, that means a LOT, to me!!! By the way, I loved your leg leveling setup, nicely done!
I would have hit it with shellac after the stain. Builds fast, fills pores, sands easily, and is cheap. Then add the lacquer. But that's just me. I like shellac.
Wash coat of shellac would have covered your staining worries about blotchiness and the dutchman. Piece looks excellent as is Nick. Great work as always!
Pumice is for “sanding” away finish in a very fine way, like polishing but not actually filling the pores - in my method the lacquer dust reconstitutes and fills in the pores Think of it like I’m knocking off mountain peaks to fill in the valleys to make the horizon more even - pumice will knock the peaks off but isn’t left behind to fill the valleys
that's bananas. Looks super good for plywood!
thanks
WOW... This is a GREAT Video...
and I did not know they had DYES for Wood...
Love this video... Beautiful
I am a big fan of using the saw dust from the project and a little glue to make a paste. I always get excellent filling and good color match.
Absolutely!
Mike,
I also do the same and it's great!
those imperfections give wood character...
Thank you Nick! Any finishing tips are sooo welcome.
Thanks much man
Thanks so much for the finishing tips! I would have never thought of leaving the dust. It's also great to see how nice baltic birch plywood looks when dyed. I'm going to give it a try. What a treat to get 2 video's from you in a short amount of time. Thanks to your wife for her assistance. Always enjoy your video's and learn a lot. I'm also LOVING my table saw sled I made using your plans!!! I have no idea how I ever got along without it!
Haha thanks - my wife has been a huge help - glad to hear you are loving the sled design - I hope you get to use yours daily!
@@NickFerry Yes, I use my table saw sled for practically everything I do. It's so easy and precise to make cuts now!
Tight bond dark wood glue. Put some into the area you want to fill. Let it tack up, then before it dries sand the area with no dust collection on your sander. The dust will cover the tight bond and make color matched filler. The glue doesn't react to laquer, and will not be noticeable. Also fish glue will work using the same technique, the dry time is a bit long but it will work. I would show some pictures if I could. Ive used it on Eastern maple, white oak, red oak walnut, and so on. Usually amazed with the result. Im a full joiner and have been working with wood as long as i can remember
If wait until just before it hardens completely its possible to match the grain pattern using a few dental tools
That is certainly a different technique !! I've never heard of that before. "Everyone" always says wipe it down, air spray it clean, use tack cloths, etc... I'll have to try that if I ever can find Deft for less than $14 a can (if I can find it at all - several places have stopped carrying it... Sheesh I can't believe how much it costs now. Oh !! And you, my friend, can "Ramble On" any time you like with your videos !! Thank you, Stacey, for the excellent camera work and direction !! Thanks for video !!
Great to see you posting again now and then Nick!
Looks great! I've used that technique for a while with shellac, never thought about it for lacquer.
Thank you for speedy reply. I was just at a loss and pitched the can. Removed 3 coats, sanded again and will use poly I think. This is turning to a life’s work. Just wanted to touch up a desk top not have a major project! Anyway live and learn. Marie Brain
this is great! it is basically the same process used for painting fancy bicycle frames. cool!
I rocked tinted blue on my chrome dyno compe for almost a full summer
If that dutchman was centered, you could hole saw it out and put a cord passthrough there? Just a thought. Great finish Nick and good to see you come up in my feed! Take care and stay safe my friend!
Thanks - I debated a usb station but it was in a weird spot
Very good for plywood and DYI PROJECTS, thank you
I don't use laquer, but I have. Yeah, it does burn into the previous coat, so leaving the dust on kind of makes sense if you're grain filling with it. I never thought of that. When I dye wood with water based dye, I usually dampen it with water first, it seems to go on more even. You may have to apply more than once, because the dye is automatically thinned out. You need to remove the raised grain too after. A green Scotch Brite pad seems to do the trick.
@9:35 looking at your bandsaw in the background.....how do you keep your blades so shiny? Thanks.
Not sure - I don’t go out of my way to shine them
I am anxious to see how you built the top for the desk. I want to use the idea for a re-do ofcoffee table on wrought iron legs. I'd like to see how you built up the 3/4" plywood. Thanks.
That will make for some cool legs - I’m editing the shelf video for the desk as I type - more to come
I’m going to have to give that lacquer dust a try. Thanks for sharing
I really like the idea of leaving the dust as filler. And will definitely try it on the guitar my son and I are building together.
Let me know how that works out for you, I would love to see it on the guitar
GREAT job Nick. I definitely will try the "sand N spray" technique on the next project -- or a scrap piece. Thanks! !! !!!
let me know how it goes for you - remember, the finer the sandpaper the easier it is to get better results
It looks great! What color stain did you use? Didn't see a link in the description.
You sure?
1:37
Sand before you put the Stain on...
To FIX that ...
sand the top....
Keep the wood dust from sanding
Put 50/50 water and white glue, yes WHITE mix
Put the mixture tiny bit in the cavity/hole and push in the dust/wood shavings into the hole
Mound it up... it will soak in... let dry... SAND it the next day...
I used to have a Furniture Refinishing Shop... I NEVER use Wood Glue... EVER...
White Glue is EXCELLENT...
Definitely going to try your technique on next build. Thanks nick.
I might have to try that Nick! Thanks for the insight. I spray lacquer all the time so I find experimenting fun.
No problem Drew - and don’t be a stranger!
Doing my best
Interesting finish process. I will have to try it out. Thank you for sharing.
Let me know how it works out for you
Nice job. Try Rustoleum lacquer, it has a very high build too out of a spray can.
Thanks - I’ll have to try it out
I have done that for years and was by accident I found that you said it kinda melts back together .
Gonna have to give that a try.
You video jumped from a satin looking finish to a high shine finish...was that just additional coats added or did you do something to finish it off to that nice shine?
Just more coats - rattle can lacquer is slow to build - another thing is to brush a couple coats for build, then top with the spray
@@NickFerry thanks for the info and tip!
Great watching your videos again Nick!
Thanks Stacey!
Great technique. gonna try this on my next finish. Thanks for your time, and tips. I appreciate it.
thanks - let me know how it works out for you - the finer the sandpaper the easier it is to do well
What brand/color dye or stain were you spreading with the foam brush? OR, what brand dye or stain works with baltic birch plywood (building an indoor bench)?
Links in the description
Looks awesome...where can I find the dye you used? Thanks
Thanks - link info in the video description
Excellent!!! Great information AND a video filled totally with digression!!
haha, you know how I roll - quite well actually, I'm rather round
@@NickFerry 👍👍
Long time no 👀. 😀
Gave up on brush on lacquer. Used to use Deft all the time. Last few years every time I use it I get nothing but fisheyes! Did they change the formula. I need an easy way to use lacquer. Maybe this spray in will work better. What brand do you use? So tired of removing bad finishes and do overs. Just an occasional refinished for my home. So not a ton of projects. Really enjoyed the video.
thanks - this is deft - amzn.to/2VbAK0A - they were bought by PPG a while back & I know it was hard to come by for a while but now it's back - with that, it appears there may have been a formulation change to keep up with changing regulations, but that's anecdotal speculation - what I do know is the gloss is more prone to fisheyes - it seems the flatenening agent in the satin makes it less susceptible
hmm ... who would have thunk it? Nick thunk it. Looks great!
🤣
1:01
Is that DYE or is that Stain... Big Difference.
And what did I say in the video? Listening & not listening, big difference
@@NickFerry
Wow... sorry I upset you.
I just asked a question.
@@JudiChristopher you didn’t upset me, you just didn’t pay attention to a video & you reference the moment in the video where I answer the question you asked - foolish really - bare minimum, the satirical value in the irony is abundant
Thanks Nick for the quick tutorial on finishing! Love that color what is it if I can ask? For the "patch in the middle one could if they had one is to put a logo over it. What is your thoughts? I was so excited to see that you had another video! Thanks again my woodworking brother!
thanks much - logo would work out great - that's where her keyboard was going so we didn't worry - color should be in the description or my website
that good job have you tried tiny layer of epoxy resine i think it ll be mutch quicker
Quicker, as in a thicker build, yes - but epoxy is a different animal altogether - I don’t know if this is the most eloquent way of wording it, but I would consider epoxy to be like a hard film finish versus lacquer being a soft film finish - this is of course, an non-catalyzed lacquer - if for purely aesthetic reasons, lacquer gives a supple & rather soft grain - epoxy gives me more of an encased, or entombed archival vibe - ✌🏼
Ramblin man- I am interested in what drove you to try the buildup technique. "Of course - why didn't I think of that before!!!" Aha moments, right? Considering what "fillers" are, why not? And plywood with its mixed soft and hard grains - sure! Great job . .. How many coats did it finally take again??
Lacquer has been my go to finish for as long as I can remember - The modern nitrocellulose lacquer dries extremely fast and you can build many coats in a short period of time - I have no idea where I came up with the idea it’s just something I’ve been doing for a long time and I would imagine that it was out of sheer laziness of wiping off every little speck of dust between sanding - I legitimately tried to keep track of how many coats I had on I would say right around 8 to maybe 10 - with 15 minutes between coats and I give it 45 minutes to an hour before I do any sanding
@@NickFerry Thank you sir. I think I will be doing that. I really like that finish.
Is the trim also the same plywood?
No, that is solid maple
Hey man, I am getting into more carpentry and looking into doing doing a nice plywood desk, this has been a great video to watch, thanks,
Glad I could help you on you journey
I watched this because I am buying a boat. The cabin has cheap, unfinished, exposed plywood that usually you spend lots of money on trying to cover it up. But I am doing this on a budget so I got to thinking... can't I just stain/gel/dye and clear coat the plywood itself? Naw, you can't do that. Why? No one does. Right?? Well I searched and found you. And yep, you can finish plywood and make it look nice without a lot of veneers and epoxys and trimming, etc. Thanks for the video!
my pleasure - you'll have to let me know how the boat turns out - if you post some pictures anywhere try to tag me - curious to see your boat
It works, and like you said, ditto for shellac.
hello Nick, shared beautiful finish.👍👏👏👏👏
Much appreciated 👊🏻👊🏻
Good tip, I'm gonna have to try that.
Ok, 2 in a week? Maybe I should shut up and count my blessings. I am going to try that technique. As a one trick pony, wipe on poly guy, I'll try and broaden my horizons. You sure make it look easy. Thanks a million. Dean Kramasz
Great video, Nick! Would love to see the video with, Bob too!
Thanks as always B!
Secret Society of Paint Engineering 😂😂😂
I got a chuckle out of that, too ! That accounts for the 5 thumbs down....
Tut, what's the first rule of...
They are the worst!
Hey Nick! Great video. I really like the finish and I'm trying to get a similar look but I'm kind of severely color blind so I can't easily match it. So what is the dye color youre using here?
Thanks - I believe it is 347 from WD Lockwood
Came for the woodworking stayed for the ramblings
Awesome 👊🏻👊🏻
That turned out nice Nick, I’ll have to try your technique out. I don’t believe it will upset any of the gods or knock earth off of it’s axes. Keep up the good work.
Haha thanks buddy!
Can we make this a regular thing? So nice to have you back! Like many others will have give this technique a try>
you are in luck - working on another one right now!
Looks great, thanks for the tip.
Great dark rich color for plywood, looks awesome , maybe clarify a little bit more, It is a quicker build, I think it is easier to do, I really like your stuff you’re doing a great job thanks so much for sharing
that's the biggest run on sentence ever - that's why I Iove you brother!
Well done Nick. Solid information. You learned well.
Much appreciated Bob - the knowledge you’ve given me over the years is so greatly appreciated
Thanks for this walkthrough, Nick. I always get nervous after wiping off the excess of the dye/stain cause, like you said, it looks bad. Reassuring that after all the treatment and it's sealed it looks beautiful like it does here. Nice job!! 🤘
much appreciated man - I still doubt the look sometimes
How do you endure the *Fumes?*
Open the door, skylight, fan, breeze or whatever, I’m not particular
Cool video and amazing results, only thing is, it wasn't clear to me how you got from 8:10 to 8:25. Maybe more information would help clarify the steps.
Just more coats of lacquer
@@NickFerry How many coats in total would you say you put on, you mentioned 6 in the video.Again, I'm very impressed with the results you obtained out of a spray can.
Thanks for sharing that, well done!
Where did you get your apron ?
amzn.to/39hX5dC
So clicky tappy makes you happy? Lol love the color and I didn’t know you could do that with the dust.
Of course! Thanks Ashley
Love this technique. Thanks
What’s the color of the stain or dye ?
I thought I listed it in the description or on the website
Try sanding sealer ....its way quicker to build up an fill in the grain
But then I would have to re-title the video to finishing plywood with grain filler
Cool technique! Now, if I were just a good enough woodworker to have the rest look good enough to make it match!
One option that you could have considered was to take that notch out of the center and replace it with another piece of wood. What you could’ve done was match the grain around the notch with a similar grain replacement piece. If done right, you could have nearly hidden the lines. It’s a lot of work however, you seem to have something to put over it.
yes, a simple patch or dutchman/bowtie was an option - but as you alluded to, that's where the keyboard resides
Bro you are a beast with the lacquer! Love the video. You are the only one I have seen who has a shop like mine (cluttered). 😂 I see the Laguna cyclone in the back how does that work for you? I recently got the grizzly 3hp but it is not a cyclone.
it works out pretty good - plenty of power
Looks good
thanks Ozzy!
Looks great Nick, thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
thanks buddy - stay safe!
@@NickFerry you too!
Awesome!
Thank you
have you consider finishing plywood with polyurethane?
I have - I don’t like the extended dry times on polyurethane especially in the colder months
Minwax 209 natural stain (basically the stain with no pigment is good to seal plywood before die or darker stain...
Thanks Billy - that’s similar to the vinyl sealer I debated - I need to look at my compressor
Love it!!!
thanks much!
Gonna give that a go.
Yo nick cool channel I’m a new subscriber, where do you buy those type of shirt your wearing?
Thanks
thanks much - amzn.to/2Unpefc
Hi Nick great to see you on your feet you looking very well, I enjoyed this video very much ... I missed your videos for a while. God Bless you Jack Marashlian from OZ
One thing that you are doing when you sand between coats is to knock off some of the lacquer AND any wood dust nibs. If you don’t wipe it after sanding then you are leaving the dust on your project. Not good for the final finish. You are correct in saying that it is reconstituting the lacquer dust but why not get rid of the wood dust and put more coats of lacquer on if you want a heavier finish.
life is too short to worry about nibs in a plywood top
@@NickFerry Hey Nick! Thanks for the video. Have tried leaving the dust on technique that you used and that works great. If using water based dye, I usually wet the bare wood with some distilled water and wipe it down and let it dry which raises the grain. Then a light sanding with 220 before dying. This takes care of the wood nibs and the water base dye will not re-raise the grain. All makes a smoother and more even dye coating. Keep up the great videos
what finishes does this work with and not work with? Who wants to clean all that dust off anyways. Great to see you making videos again.
THUMBS UP TO YOUR WIFE AND YOU.
thanks much
That's not a patch..that's a custom feature found only in this piece which cannot be found in any other comparable project. (Beautiful finish; well done)
First! But, I have to watch it later. All the best, Nick! #KeepTheChipsFlying!
Much appreciated 👊🏻👊🏻
When your spraying lacquer, spray in a way where you cover up your overspray. Your spraying it backwards. But to each his own... just my two cents and it’s what I have had the best luck with.
Absolutely - you’d be surprised how many things that I do a little bit differently to make sure that I’m not blocking the camera
@@NickFerry I repair furniture for a living and sometimes I catch people doing things differently then i do them, I dont think there really is a "wrong way". Believe me I have tried just about every way of doing most stuff and have found what works best for me. But also i dont have to worry about camera angles lol
Artist/Craftsman choice & that makes YOUR CHOICE concerning leaving the lacquer dust!!! I think it makes great sense. No different than putting glue in a defect, gouge, ding or scratch & then sanding the area which your basically make "Wood Filler" when doing it that way. This the lacquer dust (like you said) is filling the pores. Just mho, hopefully I made sense!!
I like the way you think
@@NickFerry Thank you, Sir! Coming from a man at your skill level, that means a LOT, to me!!! By the way, I loved your leg leveling setup, nicely done!
Thanks for sharing gonna try that technique. Have a save and blessed week.
H Nick, Great finish on the desktop. Fantastic tip on leaving the dust. I will give that a go when needed. Cheers, Huw
A stupid idea that works is not a stupid idea. :) I'll just have to give that a go on a build I have in mind.
love the way you think!
U have a patch in the middle of the plate pal..
Where?
@@NickFerry :)
I say one, and I repeat "When Nick Ferry has something to say, it's better leasing"
Thank you kindly
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Nick. I'll give that trick a try. It's hard to argue with the results.
I would have hit it with shellac after the stain. Builds fast, fills pores, sands easily, and is cheap. Then add the lacquer. But that's just me. I like shellac.
Dennis Hill . I think he was showing us another option.
I've watched your video very interestingly, thanks for your detailed explanation.
Nick, haircut, and a beard trim
I'm in day 47 of this 2 week quarantine
Wash coat of shellac would have covered your staining worries about blotchiness and the dutchman. Piece looks excellent as is Nick. Great work as always!
Lmao i heard you on ks107.5
haha on the radio?
Nick Ferry yes lol
There is a notch in the middle
Yup - it think it was BC plywood
👍👍👍🤗
pumice to fill holes in the grain
Pumice is for “sanding” away finish in a very fine way, like polishing but not actually filling the pores - in my method the lacquer dust reconstitutes and fills in the pores
Think of it like I’m knocking off mountain peaks to fill in the valleys to make the horizon more even - pumice will knock the peaks off but isn’t left behind to fill the valleys
Wisco love! #dells