I think this is where station-wagons are less confusing than pick-ups/utes. With a station-wagon, it's fairly easy to visualise weight because it's easy to keep track of anything you've taken out (seats, trim, carpets etc) AND what you've put in (drawers, kit, supplies etc). With a ute & canopy, you've got this giant container (which has weight of it's own) that just swallows up heaps of stuff. In normal use, a pick-up is useful because it can carry bulky - but not necessarily *heavy* - things. When you're building a camper you always end-up cramming stuff in to make efficient use of space, which leads to adding a *lot* of weight. A couple of months ago I was measuring-up for a custom fuel-tank for my Disco' and I got it all figured out, then I did a quick CAD drawing of the proposed tank and realised it'd hold 200l of fuel. That's great for range but do I *really* want, basically, a 45 gallon drum of fuel sat behind the rear axle? Time for a re-think. Never underestimate the weight added by fuel & water tanks.
Andrew, have you considered using the already free and available watermaker on your Landcruiser? Since you've concluded an AC is an indispensable piece of kit on the LC, you should tap into that. It would save you carrying tons of water, or at least a hundred kg on an extended trip. I've successfully used the condensation water for up to 6 weeks at a time, and only carried drinking water. I would not recommend drinking it, but it is otherwise very clean, odorless water that can be safely used for cooking, washing, showering, dishes etc. All I used was a modified wiper fluid container installed under the drain outlet and the smallest available marine bilge pump with float switch to pump the produce water back into my 40 ltr water tank tank at rates of between 5 and 15 ltrs an hour depending on time of the day, humidity and whether you use the AC on recycling or fresh air mode. An overflow was installed to deal with any surplus. Up to this day, I do not understand that with that amount of equipment for offroaders on the market, there is no such simple and easy to build equipment on the market. People carry espresso machines with them FGS! For under a 100$ of build, you have your own watermaker. It works when stationary or on the move, no big difference in performance. Free tip, feel free to market such a device.
Loose the tray headache bar and the steel frame used to lift the camper to clear that headache bar. They both probably weight 60 kg combined. without them the campernopy can be moved forward and lowered down
@@SingaporeSling1 You can still have a usable ute without that bar. Maybe even just a smaller one. The steel frame thats lifting it up to clear the bar would weigh a fair bit.
Steve Turner We all understand why he said he wanted to keep it, but the reality is I doubt he will frequently be taking his camper on and off. Secondly, you don’t need the bar to carry stuff in the bed of your truck. Just seems like it causes a lot of headaches and work around without much benefit.
Was going to suggest the same thing. It would save weight, lower centre of mass, make it slightly easier to access the camper and the kitchen area table.
People may give you a hard time for this video, but good on you for putting it out there. It’s nice to see someone in your line of work admit to having the issue.
1 litre of diesel doesn't equal 1kg. As a pilot I thought that would be an important consideration... At this point, for the places you go, I think you're looking for a Winnebago.
You’re effectively carrying an extra 250kg by having the versatility of a Norweld tray plus the camper on top. That’s why most people go for a straight canopy to save weight. I think the only real way round this, if you want to keep your current dual set-up, is to start over and get a rear Jmacx 4495 gvm chassis upgrade. Then you would also get a better ride with rear coils as well.
You’re also right on the limit for axle loading in current configuration - plus the 160kg weight you quote of two passengers will be very close to the front axle. Maximum axle weight for that set-up is 1540kg front axle & 2420kg rear axle, according to Multidrive specs.
A GVM upgrade never actually solves the issue of being an unnecessarily heavy build in the first place. Whilst I agree on coils being better, Toyota basically display engineering contempt towards their customers with that rear axle set up on a vehicle of this weight & the chassis probably isn't up to the altered load distribution of coils, irrespective of any additional strengthening that may occur. I'm an automotive design engineer & genuinely wouldn't touch anything modern with roman era leaf springs even if there was a coil conversion available. Seriously sucks in the current market as the cheapness of that garbage set up wins as they fool people into thinking they handle load better, which is only true on a cheaply constructed chassis where fitting coils would cost significantly more 😤
GAJ some good points. The Jmacx 4495 GVM upgrade incorporates a complete weld in rear chassis upgrade with the coil conversion. Thus addressing your concerns. You are correct in stating that companies like Toyota should facilitate this from the factory - there is obviously a market for them - I bought this 4495KG upgrade this year for a new 79 series dual cab land cruiser the same as Andrews as I knew anything less was going to be a compromise. Pity Andrew thought they where to expensive when he did his.
@@jeffwinter6859 Yeah, I've seen the Jmacx setup & the bit they do certainly looks up to the job, unfortunately it still leaves a significant amount of the original vehicle not modified to accommodate the extra weight. I'm not going to bag someone's personal build but please be very rigorous in checking everything else on the vehicle as the years roll on as that will definitely serve you well on something so modified as there's unfortunately always a penalty for adding 30% more weight over the original maximum limit, & not always in the most obvious way (think about everything that deals with weight all the way up to the steering wheel in your hands). It seems like you've done your research & aren't afraid of doing what's necessary so I hope it serves you well & you have many safe adventures with it 👍
@@jeffwinter6859 I'm looking at getting that upgrade to a new cruiser as well. happy with it? Pisses me off having to fork out for it, but there really isn't any other options in the same class.
Easy, get rid of two of the solar panels, one battery, your coffee machine or kettle, take one torch instead of 5, cut the headboard down so you don't have to unnecessarily space up the camper, get rid of the roof rack...... So much stuff could be culled without affecting the comfort or reliability of the thing.
The entire back seat power setup? He has a chonky power setup in his camper, and can run the air pump and winch from the car battery, no need for the extra power in the car and not the camper. If he wants to charge his cameras and stuff, the small portable power supply he took on his truck would be enough anyway.
Hey Andrew, I like the approach. Set your requirements, push to the real boundaries and then pare it back a bit if needed. It demonstrates an open mindedness to the problem. We wouldn't learn much if you'd come in under and left some desirables out. You've said for a long time the GVM is a challenge. Thanks for showing us how a properly thought out project still bounces against this constraint. 👍 And I think you are going to delight in explaining the actual steps on your journey to cut down. I have a sneaking suspicion you might still have a bit of luxury involved. I look forward to the rabbit out of the hat...😁
@@jimmyhendrix3457 QLD did it because of the new stability systems Jeeps and junk like that..over night destroyed Caravan sales.I used to drive a service truck at 140 all day at 4800kg Landcruiser..
Ya pay for it but that’s why I couldn’t understand for this type of tourer based on everything Andrew specified he was looking for, didn’t go for Jmax 4995 GVM upgrade! yes it’s expensive, but surely he could have done some sort of colab with them esp as this is prob one of the few using this type of camper on the back of a LC, 79, also the extra weight I have mentioned before of having the Tray and Headboard of the Norweld seems completely excessive. I can’t understand why this camper was not a bolt on to the chassis or built to go go onto the chassis, it’s a double up and increased cost as well as weight, increased COG, a stock tray could hav been retained for swap over when not camping for that matter. It never added up in my head. so here we go, compromise again, it’s a sic looking truck / camper, but always thought this was going to be tight as it is, bit of a shame really. These are built for long term imo not own a year or two and sell, lots of people are critical of the costs, but if building something like this it’s a long term investment, jme/o, having driven trucks and trailers and many other things loads have always been a consideration and a requirement for me, how I came to my conclusions. anyways good luck to Andrew, also should have gone Kings shocks and Dobinsons springs again jmo, widely available and supported in Aussie, Terrain Tamer actually look petty good, big fan of there products, Bilstein unsure how that will work out have had them on many if my cars which they were great for. Truck looks mega though.
@@maverick2242 totally agree a camper that bolted on the chassis would have been better option and worked out cheaper. I mean how many jack off set-ups are really used in tray configuration that often. A flat bed trailer would work out cheaper than Norweld tray and the camper. Also on topic of weights when you start pushing over 4 ton you really need to look at 6x6 for load bearing and stability or just buy a truck.
@@lawrenceproctor8613 I think Andrew is just incapable of buying a proper truck. Something about keeping it all relatively light weight and nimble. I respect his dedication to smaller vehicles that can better fit down trails, but at this point he really needs a bigger vehicle. Three people's worth of supplies takes up a lot of weight. That, or convoy - he's built a lot of vehicles, and everyone can drive. Have wheeling buddies with you to help you recover, AND more space!
Tim Sorensen Not so, the reason it is 4495 is it is 5kgs under the minimum required eg 5t or 5000kgs! Another reason most overlooked is because you have a GVM of so much dosen’t mean you should run at that GVM, you should ideally have a excess of GVM for reliability durability, being near or at maximum all the time and even with what Andrews talking about removing asked from compromise he’s still right at the limit actually he’s still over by 30-40kgs with 2 people, food weight seemed optimistic as well but hey what ever, you should always have some excess coverage to your GVM imo, Even if while driving he’s losing weight with fuel and water, everything is having to work so much harder, again this is one of the most discussed topics on everyone’s channel, so ai was surprised when he revealed his chassis extension choice of coy and GVM upgrade. Anyways it’s done, we can only see how it goes in the long term, I hope it works for them I really do, I love the concept of what he’s trying achieve and do, but having followed him for a number or years and hearing him talk of this very issue over many vehicles it really surprises me what he choose re GVMs and some features!
My understanding is that you can’t just reduce your fuel or water capacity to get GVM, if the vehicle can take it that what your insurance will calculate, be careful Andrew !!!
@@lastknownlocation8760 no evidence of how much was in the tank when you filled it. Maybe a photo of the dash and gauge with trip meter. Better to get it right from the beginning. Even if he balances the weight the cantilever off the back is a major concern on rough roads. I doubt he'll crack the chassis but he will fatigue it.....I wouldn't want to be the second owner.
Steve Turner even with heavy vehicle crashes I’ve not heard of them going into that much detail in regards to weight. With 4 x 600 litre tanks and triple road trains even though there an S10 livestock rating. I agree about not wanting it second hand. It’s hard to go past a troopy for this application as Andrew has mentioned at the end. The poor weight distribution concerns me even if it is under GVM.
Andrew, firstly my husband and I really enjoy watching your videos. I find it also amazing the sophistication now in vehicle/camping setups available to achieve comfortable self sufficiency. Anyway, I acknowledge your concerns (as we all do with our own setups!) over 'travelling' weights, so perhaps my next comment should not be taken that seriously, but maybe something worth investigating. Recently, we watched a Ronny Dahl presentation involving a young man showing off the work he had done to a Unimog (yes, I know it is at the extreme of your nimble sized vehicle), but something that caught my attention to overcoming water carrying issues was this guy's use of a vehicle mounted desalination unit to provide water when out in remote places, say even by a beach. (thus making water as you go! My own husband has a few ideas of his own in this regard, inclusive of maybe harvesting water produced by his air conditioning unit, and filtering it - but that is something else again) Anyway, the referred Unimog video which I will post a link is very interesting in showing an alternative camper, but if you go to 19:58 in, he refers to his desalination unit which he says produces about 150 litres of fresh water a/hr. ua-cam.com/video/kg_MW-QpMlg/v-deo.html. The other thing I wondered, would you ever feel the need to put a light weight awning; even tarp over your camping outfit, for times of heavy rain/to protect against heat, though I guess yet another weight consideration. Cheers anyway! Wishing you safe and great travels in your new vehicle; really so enjoyable to watch!
Can the camper mount directly to the chassis? Thus you can have a removable tray/headboard and lose the riser/spacer. Also it may be worthwhile to move some of the weight up front, for example integrate some water storage into the front bar, engine bay or between the frame rail and rock sliders
Yeah i agree with this. Having the tray there is "oh, i might need it to haul something", this is easily fixed with hiring a box trailer for $40 for the day when you need it. Just a skeleton frame for the camper to bolt to with lights at the back. You can still chuck firewood on it if to jack it and leave it at camp. I did a similar thing with my roof top tent, saved myself 20KG-30KG on the roof by welding the feed of the rack straight to the roof top tent and ditched the rack. It also sits about 60mm lower so it saves on wind resistance too!
So if the gvm was 3950 with that terrain tamer kit in it, and the shock has been swapped out for something new, would that then render the current gvm upgrade null and void, thus making it illegal and uninsurable out on the road?
Wrong friend. Extra weight means more fuel used, and more things can break. This is the essence of overlanding. Carrying stuff you don't need is foolish, and goes against every wise overlanding principle.
@@4xoverland I should clarify, removing fuel & water because the rest of the build has brought it over GVM is madness, what was the point of the upgraded mid fuel tank etc? 65l per person of water is not too much on the CSR? Going to rely on the wells? It's a lot heavier than your troopy, so L/100 will be up. I get it, most of the time it will be under GVM. Would an external hatch slide out camera system (instead of a kitchen) on a troopy behind the passenger door be an option for a future troopy build?
@@4xoverland you remove water but add an en suite shower "Carrying stuff you don't need is foolish, and goes against every wise overlanding principle." also diesel is not 1kg per litre so you have only removed 90kg not the 110 you entered. You don't need to be far from a town/city to be isolated in Australia and may regret leaving water behind.
I’d have to agree that Andrew has missed the mark with this one. I wonder if this will reduce the amount of people buying 79’s as tourers- all those modifications and money spent on upgrades and still overweight.
Think a lot more of your Troopy the more you have to sort out this beast.(Pro,s & Cons) Suppose you will have to make it work with the money spend. Thank you for showing all the things to watch out for with such a project.
That makes it 38:62 front/rear weight distribution (with the 300mm chassis extension). The math says 41:59 front/rear if you’d chosen the 500mm extension and an appalling 32:68 ratio at the stock 3.18m wheelbase length. Been pondering your +300mm choice for a while...
I think (worth all you have paid for it) that trying to build a "dream tourer" with both options of the tray or camper set up has left in this neither Arthur or Martha situation. The tray/headboard is redundant as are any fittings for removing the camper if you just drop in on. Likewise adding an electrical system for both setups (camper and tabletop standalone) is weight that is caused from (admirably) trying to create neither fish nor fowl. If it is to be a Dream Tourer (it is a magnificent concept) then build it as such and just drop a camper on the 79 sans the tray. Lowering the centre of gravity on this will serve you well offroad I am sure. I have watched this evolve with interest from day one but the tray and headboard (and kind of clunky looking way this then incorporates with the camper honestly do spoil the lines of it and make the wonderful looking Tommy Camper look like an afterthought. GVM is of course the maximum permissible weight, offroad weight is always your enemy and I struggle now that the calculations are down to trying to wring 100kgs or so out of it (without food) just to be at MAXIMUM weight. I look forward to seeing how you get there (as I am sure you will) - I will look for the tray and third battery appearing on ebay perhaps...! Good luck with it !
I would have left that roll bar of the tray or make it removable. You'll only ever need it hauling lumber or such on the tray. It would have put your centre of gravity forward additionally by moving the camper forward.
Andy, Andy, Andy...been watching "Scotty's gone walkabout''. Realised how much stuff you don't need. Ditch the electric kettle, toaster, the 6 billion kilowatt power station...it's camping.
@Mark Somerville Andrew is not newbie camping. he is just becoming older and comfort requirements are higher, after twenty years of wild camping...he just want coffee and shower in the morning routine no matter camping he or not.
He's obviously stated in previous videos that he wants a more comfortable camp for himself and Gwynn as they have gotten older. Cant blame him. He has already been everywhere and done everything when in comes to overlanding anyway. This is just a different form.
JohnRolyAU Quickly remove some camping gear and put some water on the garden. That was a check weigh, just as you would do with a backpack or suitcase and sometimes at a helicopter base before flying into the bush for several days. There is always one idiot in a party who packs too much and tries to bully other people into leaving some of their kit behind. I have also checked weights for my tool bag and various tool boxes when I have to carry gear up and down multiple steps and/or a long driveway, except that I do not bother with a weigh scale for that kit.
Hate to pipe up, but as an automotive design engineer I'd have to consider the build a partial failure if GVM is an issue as it's a limit that shouldn't be exceeded, not a target to aim for. Seriously hoping you work something out to be confident in this regard & you keep yourself, your lovely family, every other road user & every pedestrian safe whilst still having the rig of your dreams 🤞
So you're more like 250kg-300kg once you add yourself your wife and food beers realistically plus camera equipment and the dog, removing fuel to save weight should never be an option for anyone travelling these are normally emergency supplies you take for worst-case scenarios. For me this is way too much fuel consumption would be the through the roof the strain on all the mechanical gear would be through the roof and I wouldn't be doing any corrugations with that setup being over GVM that's a lot of stress to put on that chassis.
I have a vision of you and Gwen walking behind the Dream Tourer while steering it with a remote control. " sorry Gwen....its overweight. This is the best solution I've got for the moment" Kidding aside. It looks awesome. However, I think you'll miss the livability of the troopy on those hot/windy/rainy/cold days.
Thanks Andrew, As always I watch your videos as soon as I get a moment and they never disappoint. Look forward to following your adventures. My family and I have had a Toyota Hiace campervan for the last 8 years in the UK. She has had a couple of hiccups along the way but never really let us down. Currently in Croatia having been to France, Switzerland, Italy, Slovenia already. Corona Eurotour! Can see why you love them and those land cruisers are iconic.
I literally have a RV box that I am starting to collect items. I literally purchased sporks instead of full on spoons because they save weight. I purchased stainless steel camping bowls etc. The blankets are going to be Rumpl. My daughter has one and it's extremely lightweight and breathable. Embassy RV has a novel way to handle water. They utilize a dual bladder system for potable and grey water. As on bladder is emptying the other bladder is filled. It's a water system the Marine industry is utilizing.
Happy travels Andrew and Gwen. Keep your other battery and carry about 80 litres of water and fill your fuel tanks when it suits but get rid of; second spare tyre, hot water system, electric kettle, toaster, oven, block and tackle, roll bar and steel table which will drop your centre of gravity and bring some of that rear weight forward, canopy lift off legs etc, any cast iron cookware, and if you both aim to loose 10kg each you'll feel better and live longer (win-win), second fridge in cab (use cooler bag), collapsable pots and buckets are very heavy, change your chairs to light weight compact and imagine how much space you'll gain too. Marty from Perth
Andrew, I would like to begin by thanking you for the many excellent videos that you have posted. They have taken me places that I will not go to in this life. However, I do believe that you have lost your way. For many years, you appear to have been a proponent of "Keep it Simple". This "Aussie Dream Bush Tourer" is - in my view - over engineered. I have waited several days since this video was posted before writing a comment. Reflection and contemplation have brought me to this - you have the right to whichever direction in life you wish to travel, however, I truly believe that this video does not belong on your forum. Once again, respect, gratitude and admiration for all of the great work that you have done.
Getting rid of the toaster isn't gonna cut it, is it Gwynn? GVM upgrade seems the only practical solution. If you are close to max and you hit a big bump... Well you have probably seen JC's video on broken Tritons.
Get rid of the badly designed tray headboard and those "spacer" prob would be a fair bit on weight saving. That Unnecessary big/complicated powers plant doesn't help either. For such a heavy rig you have surprisingly little storage space. Love your videos and you knowledge behind them, but can't help but this feels more like... Hey let's bolt all the stuff on it cause free or heavily discounted... The green troopy seemed so much more practical!
I just gained a lot more respect for you, honest man and seeing the aboriginal flag on the 79 warmed my heart. Enjoy your build mate don't listen to the trolls keep the toaster and kettle haha
Enjoying all your videos. Can't wait for the Pilbara. 11 years in PHE and surrounds. Your commentary and advice on all things mechanical and others is super.
One thing a lot of people don't think about is the weight of all the electrical components. Most people consider the weight of a second battery, but don't factor in the charger, manager boxes, displays, fuse panels, inverters and 100's of metres of wiring! I love a basic 12v system to do the essentials, but couldn't justify the weight to go full self sufficient. (Or run the coffee machine and oven). Either way love the build and keen to see the maiden voyage!
Put skinnier tyres and rims on it that will save lots of kilos that way you can fill your water tank backup and get a lighter mattress but comfortable sometimes you have to compromise ID rather have fuel and water and be safe out in the bush and if you're not going to take the canopy off the back truck why carry the legs around
That's what I was thinking too. Regardless of GVM issues, the first thing I took away from the weights was that truck could do with having much more stuff up-front.
Usually trucks are built and suspended so they can take more load at the back. To get an idea of where the weight balance should be (front to rear) but non the less, it does seem like a lot more weight at the back. For pure off road performance thought you are right, close 50-50 distribution is more ideal
Ah yes, the 1st world issue of the modern 'overlander', weight. A 1.25-1.5t camper would have provided you with more comfortable sleeping quarters, you wouldn't have to get the GVM upgrade and would you really need the dual cab ute? Understand the 'I don't want to tow' mindset, however it is the better option (as long as you keep the wife out of the selection process, because you always end up with the 3.5t van).
Fabulously interesting discussions and feedback. Full disclosure: I'm designing and close to building my own overland tourer and it's based on a LC79 Single cab. I agree the lack of storage behind the seats in a single cab sucks, but I hope I get used to it and instead I don't have to do a 300 mm extension which makes the turning circle s**t, and IMO is introducing a weakness in the chassis. Also the single cabs allegedly have thicker chassis rails due to their Ancap 5 rating, so apart from storage I think it's a better choice. Just like Andrew my goal is to stay well below 3900 Kg, partly because that's the GVM I have chosen but also because I believe that any 4WD that is heavier than say 3700 is just s**t to drive off-road. I'm sure we've all seen Ronny Dahl's videos about that subject. To that extend I fail to understand statements like "you should have taken a unimog, or an Iveco, or a whatever". Sure enough, they may have a slightly stronger chassis, but it's in the end still 4.5 Tonne on the road. I've never driven an Iveco daily but looking at some of the online videos in off road situations those vehicles scare me with the way they sway from left to right when going through holes. Second thing I am struggling with is the suggestion to take a caravan/trailer. Yes, that takes some of the weight off the vehicle and that's great for the chassis and to some extend suspension, but for the engine and driveline it doesn't make one iota of a difference because now you're lugging a heavy trailer behind you and I bet that's harder work for that same engine/driveline than a few extra kilo's on the vehicle itself. Would love to hear some constructive thoughts why my thinking is wrong.
Really I have been negative through this series because many of us were honest and made comments that reflected our frustration with this build. Nothing is good about this build it looks bad with design issues and functionally problems then it's over GVM and Won't be under unless all the over abundance of stuff is removed including the tray. Every item has a specification on weight including the car, camper it's not hard to add up every item even before you start. Tunnel vision must have a 79 but didn't do a GVM upgrade at the start.
Totally agree. Unfortunately, this has been a lesson in how not to do it. It was always going to end badly when he started on the intercooler air vent being around the wrong way.....
Not passing any judgement here like some seem to like doing. Just curious about the storage system in the back seat. I see almost everyone using plywood and mdf to build storage systems for their vehicles. I realize it’s inexpensive and easy to work with, but thinking especially with the caliber of builds you do, why not aluminum? Reduced weight and you gain a little extra space not having 18mm material. Anyways, overweight or not it’s looking great.
Hope you the best Andrew! Just beware of excessive weight as it could cause the frame to bend. Please keep us updated on what you come up with to reduce weight, I'd love to see that!
Think you should’ve planned the weight prior to the build, there’s plenty of higher GVM upgrade options out there and now having to cut things out. Just isn’t the way I’d work it.
Greetings Andrew, I enjoyed this build (I do enjoy your Africa and Australian Overlanding and also your earlier 4-wheeling videos). I have been watching on a "big-screen" TV where I don't see the comments and so I never noticed the negativity you receive until I re-watched this one on my iPad. Wow you do have patience! Anyway I WOULD LIKE TO CONTRIBUTE MY 2-CENTS WORTH, TO HELP IN YOUR THINKING UP OF SOLUTIONS FOR THE GVM CHALLENGE in a hopefully positive manner, that doesn't piss you and everybody else off 😂..... while at the same time trying to adhere to your design/build concepts, so here goes: 1) So to keep your dual purpose daily driver concept, yes KEEP the Norweld Tray, but have NORWELD or other skilled welder cut the head board tubing down to be flush or just proud of 79 roof line and re-weld the head board tubing at the new lowered height ( and grind smooth) using Aluminium TIG/MIG. Then get rid of the spacer/shim, and redo your plastic slide set up. This is a very in-expensive save on some weight and as a bonus will lower your center of gravity a tiny bit too. 2) Redo the camper water tank from 70 litres to 45 Litres and save another 25kg while still having significant water capacity in keeping with overlanding basics. 3) I Don't think you can reduce fuel capacity, but if you do you will need new smaller auxiliary fuel tank ( I don't want to do that). 4) I understand (edit) that the Tommy Camper is already Aluminium, so no weight to be saved there it seems. That's all I have for now, not much I know, but one bite at a time and we may get there at minimal cost of any necessary re-work....... .....or you can go for a big spend and upgrade to 4200GVM but that is a heavy hit and not as much of a fun challenge. Cheers !
@@akaroamale475 at this stage changing springs and shocks could get him to 4200kg GVM or he could weld in a Jmacx 4495kg chassis clip but doing it after all already extending would be a waste of money spent on the original extension. He would nearly need to sell this vehicle and build a new one to fix he's problems around GVM.
Remove those windows from the backdoors and change them to lightweight aluminium hatches. Then you can get your cameras quick from outside. And you dont need open the back door to get them. Lightweight aluminium is lighter than glasswindow. If you change the backwindow too to aluminium plate or polycarbonite window you save more weight.
Andrew, I do not know what the GVM per axle is so I'm gonna assume that most of the weight you want to lose from the back end. My thoughts: 1)Rock slides, too much for your style of overlanding. 2) the rear axle supports the camper on top of a tray on top of a flatbed and I do recall that the tray cannot be deleted due to height issues. But the flatbed could be trimmed? For example that massive chrome tubing aft of the cabin if not mandatory, could reduce the weight as well as correct a little bit the distribution (if the camper can be moved forward). 3) 2nd spare tyre massive massive overkill. Absolutely redundant. And if it was me, I'd lose the aft tyre together with the tyre carrier (bonus reduction!). 4) If the camper's feet could be easily detached that could add up to 10-20kg savings ... And now getting into much more costly ideas: 5) camper rear entry door and side portals made of plastics? 6) rear bumper (all metallic)... Any alternative materials? 7) camper ladder seems super beefy. Could it be trimmed? 8) rear camper girders (raked back) only there for aesthetics. Could be deleted (or replaced by lighter materials)? 9) as of tanks, I have no idea what you sport, but if at all possible to replace steel outboard tanks with plastic inboard ones... I hope I've given food for thought
That is the question I asked earlier...the weighbridge ticket says FRONT axle has 1,520kg and the Rear axle has 2,486kg. What we DON'T know is what is the allowable axle loadings? My Chevy has a GVM of 5,171kg, but if I was to load it to that exact figure, I'd have to ensure that the front wasn't heavier than 2,359kg and the rear no more than 2,812kg as those are the maximum allowable axle ratings and they are the two numbers that give me a 5,171kg GVM. So, I can be under GVM but still illegal because one of the axles is overloaded.
@@billroach2393 GVM upgrades -i if done well - include a reinforced rear axle that has a higher load rating. For example the JMacX 3900 and 4200 packages have a rear axle rating of 2700 kg and the higher GVMs have a rear axle rating of 3000. That also implies you need rims and wheels rated to halve that value, i.e. 1350 Kg or 1500Kg respectfully. Andrew has another axle so I don't know what his axle load rating is. As far as I know TruTrackers are not legal with those increased GVMs.
Hi Andrew. You reference the manufacturers MAX GVW which was determined before you substantially modified the vehicle. The modifications might have increased the MAX GVM. Springs, tires, rims, frame reinforcement are all key components to determining the original MAX GVM and you have changed all of those components. Good luck and nice job.
Did you think about the 4.2gvm with leafe springs, that is available for the 79 series. Why not even go the 4.45t coiled gvm with chasis extension from jmacx? These options would keep you close to clearing the gvm with 2 poeple in the cab
There's a lot of comments about you should of gone with the 4490GVM but I disagree. Who wants to weigh 4.5 ton and be stuck on a beach or not be allowed to go over certain bridges. You've got the right vehicle set-up there Andrew it's your canopy set-up I think you missed the mark on. With your creativity you could of got Tuff Engineering to build a full aluminium custom unit cheaper than the Tommy. With lower tray and a lot less bulky pop top. So Gwen can reach in the fridge and get things out the back with ease. Do it for Gwen!
sibhs66 people choose 4495 so that they always remain legal, not to always travel at the weight limit. You can go travelling at 3800kg then have plenty of spare weight capacity for particular occasions.
@@andrewhurstcars Hi Andrew, if they can restrain themselves. I wonder how much payload you gain with the 4495? That conversion would add a couple of hundred Kg alone I would think. Plus a lot of rules go on GVM not what you weigh. Can't remember the weight before you can't do 110kph. Cheers Marty
sibhs66 hi Marty, put it this way - you can still do a tricked out double cab 79 with a full Norweld canopy with all the toys upright fridge etc, rooftop tent, bars, Jmacx 4495 conversion, and still come out at about 3750kg all up. It’s the separate tray base and additional camper combined where you gain so much weight.
Good on Andrew he is on the right track a Slide on Camper is a great choice it just take years of experience and trial and error to get it working together, at least he is being honest about the process unlike most, maybe try an Australian made Camper
I have never before seen a build where there was no consideration to the weight until after it was finished. 4 ton is amazing. Hope it doesn't 'banana' on you.
If you look into the Norweld catalog you'll see that Norweld makes a tray without a headboard, exactly what was needed for this build. But that version is reserved by Norweld for when you buy a canopy from them. So what may have been a better idea is to just go to another tray builder that builds custom trays to your own specification. But of course, they may not do that for free.
@@4xoverland I'd like to hear from someone who is well informed in Australian law if that is actually true. Are headboards mandatory? If so, why isn't every Ranger, DMax, etc ute coming with a headboard? If I read the official guidelines for safely carrying a load on a tray you're obliged by law to ensure that your load is restricted in moving in any direction, i.e forward, backward and sideways and ONE of the options you can use to achieve that is a headboard. But if you can safely restrain your load with other mechanisms such as straps, that's also fine.
Andrew, I have a solution. empty the fuel tanks and then pull the car as if you were a horse, thus saving 160 kilos from the two passengers that are now dragging the camper and the fuel is another 100+ kilos, therefore saving some additional room for extra things such as firewood, food or coke
Personally i see this build as an example of what is available on the market and coming up with ideas possiblly. Companies are highlighted which helps with the marketing side of things. The GVM question simply adds to the drama. People will watch these videos because of Andrew himself. The Aussie tourer has been done by others many times. Some of which have a lot of subs. Ok, the genre of these other UA-camrs maybe slightly different, but the concept is the same. Mainly trips which are a few weeks long..maybe a month or so. I cannot see this vehicle being kept. Andrew is a vehicle builder. It is part of what he does. There will, i feel, be further videos where the builds will be improved. This happened with the original Troopy builds. For me the space in the cabin is a nightmare. Far to small to live in should bad weather hit. That and the prospect of folding wet canvas back into the cabin is simply a nono for me. Having said that, it was mentioned in the last video that there was a dislike of camping in the rain. There is nothing wrong with getting companies to sponsor a build, but it does limit the build in other ways and that we need to understand. It is no good saying "You should have gone to this and that company" in the comments as it upsets the companies already involved in the deals they have made. Andrew sources what he feels is the best for him and his build. If he is right or wrong is up to the viewer and their opinion. With the overland scene becoming bigger due to things like us "Baby Boomer" generation looking for adventure and not just 2 weeks in a Hotel with a beach bar the rise of overland channels has gone crazy. The vanlife big money makers have already seen this coming and have moved their channels to things like building tiny homes to keep the money rolling in with viewers. The overland scene is no different in this respect with channels reaching saturation point and veying for views. Although i may disagree with certain aspects of the builds on this channel as well as the travelling aspects, i only see this as a positive which holds my interest. There is no doubt Andrew produces quality production and is well liked by many. It will be interesting to see what will happen in the future with so much competion out there. There is only so much a channel can review and report on before the ideas run out with regard to build videos. Maybe more touring videos will be the future as people get geared up to go travelling? Would i want to produce these type of videos knowing the time and effort it takes...no. I would rather just enjoy being on the road.
It was great to see through a a setup from start to finish. I enjoyed it a lot like most ppl here but I am also glad its over. Hop, going forward you will focus in the actual travel rather than the hardware.
That’s an outstanding tourer, a real credit to yourself, the experience in setting up shows. Perhaps if you haven’t already considered or may have already, dual under bonnet lifepo4 in parallel?
Weight reduction is a non issue. As you’ve said Test and Adjust your gear to scope it down to weight. If you were really hard up you could start going all ‘race cars spec’ taking to the camper box and rear doors with a hole saw and dimple die. Swapping out bonnet and fenders for fibreglass or carbon fibre.
There's probably a lot of camping gear you can live moderately comfortable without. It all adds up. Time to go back to basics with a whiteboard, trim the fat and leave only the essentials. Be ruthless but you will definitely get there
hi andrew love watching your builds, thanks, i am doing a custom poptop on a dualcab hilux so following with keen interest what you are doing, thanks for sharing! ...re the shower set up you had in the troopy, did you do the same in the dream tourer? is there post/blog with the full set up (ie plumbing/components etc) of how you set it up in the troopy? ie how do dial in the temperature, and how you plumbed it for using an external water source etc thanks heaps darren
@Jbog07 Rebuilt Perentie (6x6), Iveco, G-Wagen (W461 Pro) or Mog. If he was actually paying cash to build this (as opposed to product 'reviews'/contributions) he would have spent a small fortune, to the point where it is virtually uncommercial. Despite all of this, he is not GVM legal. It would be nice to know the total cost of this build.
@@nnoddy8161 In previous videos he's talked as to why a Mog/Iveco doesn't suit (climbing in/out to film and vehicle width). I fall into the minimal style for camping so am in the process of decking out my Perentie 4x4.
@@rumplestiltskin1 The GVM provided by the 70 Series was never going to be enough (even with the upgrade). If the Mog/Iveco is out due to access, then he would have been better off with a W461 or Perentie (6x6) given their significantly greater GVM (and you would not have had to lengthen the chassis on either of them). I just cannot get how much this would have cost to build and it is technically not legal.
@@nnoddy8161 Why do people like you think that your preference is better than someone else's? He is building what he wants. He has also clearly stated that Iveco doesn't suit his needs and that he is finished with landrover in other videos.
I think this is where station-wagons are less confusing than pick-ups/utes.
With a station-wagon, it's fairly easy to visualise weight because it's easy to keep track of anything you've taken out (seats, trim, carpets etc) AND what you've put in (drawers, kit, supplies etc).
With a ute & canopy, you've got this giant container (which has weight of it's own) that just swallows up heaps of stuff.
In normal use, a pick-up is useful because it can carry bulky - but not necessarily *heavy* - things.
When you're building a camper you always end-up cramming stuff in to make efficient use of space, which leads to adding a *lot* of weight.
A couple of months ago I was measuring-up for a custom fuel-tank for my Disco' and I got it all figured out, then I did a quick CAD drawing of the proposed tank and realised it'd hold 200l of fuel.
That's great for range but do I *really* want, basically, a 45 gallon drum of fuel sat behind the rear axle?
Time for a re-think.
Never underestimate the weight added by fuel & water tanks.
Andrew, have you considered using the already free and available watermaker on your Landcruiser? Since you've concluded an AC is an indispensable piece of kit on the LC, you should tap into that. It would save you carrying tons of water, or at least a hundred kg on an extended trip. I've successfully used the condensation water for up to 6 weeks at a time, and only carried drinking water. I would not recommend drinking it, but it is otherwise very clean, odorless water that can be safely used for cooking, washing, showering, dishes etc. All I used was a modified wiper fluid container installed under the drain outlet and the smallest available marine bilge pump with float switch to pump the produce water back into my 40 ltr water tank tank at rates of between 5 and 15 ltrs an hour depending on time of the day, humidity and whether you use the AC on recycling or fresh air mode. An overflow was installed to deal with any surplus. Up to this day, I do not understand that with that amount of equipment for offroaders on the market, there is no such simple and easy to build equipment on the market. People carry espresso machines with them FGS! For under a 100$ of build, you have your own watermaker. It works when stationary or on the move, no big difference in performance. Free tip, feel free to market such a device.
Loose the tray headache bar and the steel frame used to lift the camper to clear that headache bar. They both probably weight 60 kg combined. without them the campernopy can be moved forward and lowered down
Yeah I still don’t understand the need to keep that.
So he can jack the camper up and set it on legs then drive off with a usable truck without too much bother....maybe?
@@SingaporeSling1 You can still have a usable ute without that bar. Maybe even just a smaller one. The steel frame thats lifting it up to clear the bar would weigh a fair bit.
Steve Turner We all understand why he said he wanted to keep it, but the reality is I doubt he will frequently be taking his camper on and off. Secondly, you don’t need the bar to carry stuff in the bed of your truck. Just seems like it causes a lot of headaches and work around without much benefit.
Was going to suggest the same thing. It would save weight, lower centre of mass, make it slightly easier to access the camper and the kitchen area table.
People may give you a hard time for this video, but good on you for putting it out there. It’s nice to see someone in your line of work admit to having the issue.
1 litre of diesel doesn't equal 1kg. As a pilot I thought that would be an important consideration...
At this point, for the places you go, I think you're looking for a Winnebago.
You’re effectively carrying an extra 250kg by having the versatility of a Norweld tray plus the camper on top. That’s why most people go for a straight canopy to save weight. I think the only real way round this, if you want to keep your current dual set-up, is to start over and get a rear Jmacx 4495 gvm chassis upgrade. Then you would also get a better ride with rear coils as well.
You’re also right on the limit for axle loading in current configuration - plus the 160kg weight you quote of two passengers will be very close to the front axle. Maximum axle weight for that set-up is 1540kg front axle & 2420kg rear axle, according to Multidrive specs.
A GVM upgrade never actually solves the issue of being an unnecessarily heavy build in the first place. Whilst I agree on coils being better, Toyota basically display engineering contempt towards their customers with that rear axle set up on a vehicle of this weight & the chassis probably isn't up to the altered load distribution of coils, irrespective of any additional strengthening that may occur. I'm an automotive design engineer & genuinely wouldn't touch anything modern with roman era leaf springs even if there was a coil conversion available. Seriously sucks in the current market as the cheapness of that garbage set up wins as they fool people into thinking they handle load better, which is only true on a cheaply constructed chassis where fitting coils would cost significantly more 😤
GAJ some good points. The Jmacx 4495 GVM upgrade incorporates a complete weld in rear chassis upgrade with the coil conversion. Thus addressing your concerns. You are correct in stating that companies like Toyota should facilitate this from the factory - there is obviously a market for them - I bought this 4495KG upgrade this year for a new 79 series dual cab land cruiser the same as Andrews as I knew anything less was going to be a compromise. Pity Andrew thought they where to expensive when he did his.
@@jeffwinter6859 Yeah, I've seen the Jmacx setup & the bit they do certainly looks up to the job, unfortunately it still leaves a significant amount of the original vehicle not modified to accommodate the extra weight. I'm not going to bag someone's personal build but please be very rigorous in checking everything else on the vehicle as the years roll on as that will definitely serve you well on something so modified as there's unfortunately always a penalty for adding 30% more weight over the original maximum limit, & not always in the most obvious way (think about everything that deals with weight all the way up to the steering wheel in your hands). It seems like you've done your research & aren't afraid of doing what's necessary so I hope it serves you well & you have many safe adventures with it 👍
@@jeffwinter6859 I'm looking at getting that upgrade to a new cruiser as well. happy with it? Pisses me off having to fork out for it, but there really isn't any other options in the same class.
Easy, get rid of two of the solar panels, one battery, your coffee machine or kettle, take one torch instead of 5, cut the headboard down so you don't have to unnecessarily space up the camper, get rid of the roof rack......
So much stuff could be culled without affecting the comfort or reliability of the thing.
shush Im enjoying the Covid distraction
was thinking the same with head board.
The entire back seat power setup? He has a chonky power setup in his camper, and can run the air pump and winch from the car battery, no need for the extra power in the car and not the camper. If he wants to charge his cameras and stuff, the small portable power supply he took on his truck would be enough anyway.
Most Australians: 50kg over GVM? That's 300kg lighter than I expected!
🤣🤣
Light weight wheels
Absolutely, if every 4wd or backpacker vehicle was weighed Australian highways would stop.
@@c10196 Isn't this happening more and more?
A 4 tonne vehicle! Without passengers and food & supplies.
What an expensive fail.
The wrap on the camper doors just makes it look bang on 👌👌
Hey Andrew, I like the approach. Set your requirements, push to the real boundaries and then pare it back a bit if needed. It demonstrates an open mindedness to the problem. We wouldn't learn much if you'd come in under and left some desirables out. You've said for a long time the GVM is a challenge. Thanks for showing us how a properly thought out project still bounces against this constraint. 👍
And I think you are going to delight in explaining the actual steps on your journey to cut down. I have a sneaking suspicion you might still have a bit of luxury involved. I look forward to the rabbit out of the hat...😁
The GVM issue is exactly why I ultimately went for a Fuso Canter in preference to the L-C 79
My vote...Get ride of the 2nd spare tire. And then start thinning out the extra gear.... toaster and such.
GVM rules laws need review.
MrLunithy to an extent there are many factors that they need to look over
@@jimmyhendrix3457 QLD did it because of the new stability systems Jeeps and junk like that..over night destroyed Caravan sales.I used to drive a service truck at 140 all day at 4800kg Landcruiser..
Should have gone with the titanium toaster and water kettle.
Ya pay for it but that’s why I couldn’t understand for this type of tourer based on everything Andrew specified he was looking for, didn’t go for Jmax 4995 GVM upgrade! yes it’s expensive, but surely he could have done some sort of colab with them esp as this is prob one of the few using this type of camper on the back of a LC, 79, also the extra weight I have mentioned before of having the Tray and Headboard of the Norweld seems completely excessive.
I can’t understand why this camper was not a bolt on to the chassis or built to go go onto the chassis, it’s a double up and increased cost as well as weight, increased COG, a stock tray could hav been retained for swap over when not camping for that matter. It never added up in my head. so here we go, compromise again, it’s a sic looking truck / camper, but always thought this was going to be tight as it is, bit of a shame really.
These are built for long term imo not own a year or two and sell, lots of people are critical of the costs, but if building something like this it’s a long term investment, jme/o, having driven trucks and trailers and many other things loads have always been a consideration and a requirement for me, how I came to my conclusions. anyways good luck to Andrew, also should have gone Kings shocks and Dobinsons springs again jmo, widely available and supported in Aussie, Terrain Tamer actually look petty good, big fan of there products, Bilstein unsure how that will work out have had them on many if my cars which they were great for.
Truck looks mega though.
@@maverick2242 totally agree a camper that bolted on the chassis would have been better option and worked out cheaper. I mean how many jack off set-ups are really used in tray configuration that often. A flat bed trailer would work out cheaper than Norweld tray and the camper. Also on topic of weights when you start pushing over 4 ton you really need to look at 6x6 for load bearing and stability or just buy a truck.
@@lawrenceproctor8613 I think Andrew is just incapable of buying a proper truck. Something about keeping it all relatively light weight and nimble.
I respect his dedication to smaller vehicles that can better fit down trails, but at this point he really needs a bigger vehicle. Three people's worth of supplies takes up a lot of weight. That, or convoy - he's built a lot of vehicles, and everyone can drive. Have wheeling buddies with you to help you recover, AND more space!
Maverick224 if he went that high he would have to rego as a truck and have a truck license then would need to logbook driving hours
Tim Sorensen Not so, the reason it is 4495 is it is 5kgs under the minimum required eg 5t or 5000kgs!
Another reason most overlooked is because you have a GVM of so much dosen’t mean you should run at that GVM, you should ideally have a excess of GVM for reliability durability, being near or at maximum all the time and even with what Andrews talking about removing asked from compromise he’s still right at the limit actually he’s still over by 30-40kgs with 2 people, food weight seemed optimistic as well but hey what ever, you should always have some excess coverage to your GVM imo, Even if while driving he’s losing weight with fuel and water, everything is having to work so much harder, again this is one of the most discussed topics on everyone’s channel, so ai was surprised when he revealed his chassis extension choice of coy and GVM upgrade. Anyways it’s done, we can only see how it goes in the long term, I hope it works for them I really do, I love the concept of what he’s trying achieve and do, but having followed him for a number or years and hearing him talk of this very issue over many vehicles it really surprises me what he choose re GVMs and some features!
Lots of hate here, but it’s good to always see a different build for Overlanding and compare to others, we are experiencing this for free on UA-cam.
My understanding is that you can’t just reduce your fuel or water capacity to get GVM, if the vehicle can take it that what your insurance will calculate, be careful Andrew !!!
Yes this is a huge issue to consider. They will do everything they can to not pay out
That’s not correct. It weighs what it weighs. If you have an accident it will be weighed as it is.
Adam Rosenberg and you could dispute that by showing the most recent fuel receipt and distance travelled etc.
@@lastknownlocation8760 no evidence of how much was in the tank when you filled it. Maybe a photo of the dash and gauge with trip meter. Better to get it right from the beginning. Even if he balances the weight the cantilever off the back is a major concern on rough roads. I doubt he'll crack the chassis but he will fatigue it.....I wouldn't want to be the second owner.
Steve Turner even with heavy vehicle crashes I’ve not heard of them going into that much detail in regards to weight. With 4 x 600 litre tanks and triple road trains even though there an S10 livestock rating.
I agree about not wanting it second hand. It’s hard to go past a troopy for this application as Andrew has mentioned at the end. The poor weight distribution concerns me even if it is under GVM.
Andrew, firstly my husband and I really enjoy watching your videos. I find it also amazing the sophistication now in vehicle/camping setups available to achieve comfortable self sufficiency. Anyway, I acknowledge your concerns (as we all do with our own setups!) over 'travelling' weights, so perhaps my next comment should not be taken that seriously, but maybe something worth investigating. Recently, we watched a Ronny Dahl presentation involving a young man showing off the work he had done to a Unimog (yes, I know it is at the extreme of your nimble sized vehicle), but something that caught my attention to overcoming water carrying issues was this guy's use of a vehicle mounted desalination unit to provide water when out in remote places, say even by a beach. (thus making water as you go! My own husband has a few ideas of his own in this regard, inclusive of maybe harvesting water produced by his air conditioning unit, and filtering it - but that is something else again) Anyway, the referred Unimog video which I will post a link is very interesting in showing an alternative camper, but if you go to 19:58 in, he refers to his desalination unit which he says produces about 150 litres of fresh water a/hr. ua-cam.com/video/kg_MW-QpMlg/v-deo.html. The other thing I wondered, would you ever feel the need to put a light weight awning; even tarp over your camping outfit, for times of heavy rain/to protect against heat, though I guess yet another weight consideration. Cheers anyway! Wishing you safe and great travels in your new vehicle; really so enjoyable to watch!
Can the camper mount directly to the chassis? Thus you can have a removable tray/headboard and lose the riser/spacer. Also it may be worthwhile to move some of the weight up front, for example integrate some water storage into the front bar, engine bay or between the frame rail and rock sliders
Yeah i agree with this. Having the tray there is "oh, i might need it to haul something", this is easily fixed with hiring a box trailer for $40 for the day when you need it. Just a skeleton frame for the camper to bolt to with lights at the back. You can still chuck firewood on it if to jack it and leave it at camp.
I did a similar thing with my roof top tent, saved myself 20KG-30KG on the roof by welding the feed of the rack straight to the roof top tent and ditched the rack. It also sits about 60mm lower so it saves on wind resistance too!
Weight is weight so moving the weight still means he's over GVM (other than potentially removing the weight of a physical tank if it can be removed).
@@rumplestiltskin1 ideally removing the tray would bring the car under GVM (at a guess). Moving weight up helps the F/R balance issue.
So if the gvm was 3950 with that terrain tamer kit in it, and the shock has been swapped out for something new, would that then render the current gvm upgrade null and void, thus making it illegal and uninsurable out on the road?
my thoughts exactly
Love the kids at the end. “ house is our now parents gone” lol
Removing fuel and water is madness. Complete opposite of ‘overlanding’
Remove water and fuel, but keep the toaster coffee machine and kettle 🤦♂️
Wrong friend. Extra weight means more fuel used, and more things can break. This is the essence of overlanding. Carrying stuff you don't need is foolish, and goes against every wise overlanding principle.
@@4xoverland I should clarify, removing fuel & water because the rest of the build has brought it over GVM is madness, what was the point of the upgraded mid fuel tank etc?
65l per person of water is not too much on the CSR? Going to rely on the wells? It's a lot heavier than your troopy, so L/100 will be up.
I get it, most of the time it will be under GVM.
Would an external hatch slide out camera system (instead of a kitchen) on a troopy behind the passenger door be an option for a future troopy build?
@@4xoverland you remove water but add an en suite shower "Carrying stuff you don't need is foolish, and goes against every wise overlanding principle."
also diesel is not 1kg per litre so you have only removed 90kg not the 110 you entered.
You don't need to be far from a town/city to be isolated in Australia and may regret leaving water behind.
I can't watch this anymore. It's like a slow-motion train wreck. I hope it all works out at some point.
I’d have to agree that Andrew has missed the mark with this one. I wonder if this will reduce the amount of people buying 79’s as tourers- all those modifications and money spent on upgrades and still overweight.
Nah the bearded bogans will still buy them. They don’t care if they are over weight.
Unfortunately I have to agree... the shannons engineering one is perfect. But this one🥴
I Enjoy watching this alot. I'am glad that Andrew is Honest.
@@dunk1 Andrew doesn't have a JMacX GVM upgrade.
Think a lot more of your Troopy the more you have to sort out this beast.(Pro,s & Cons) Suppose you will have to make it work with the money spend. Thank you for showing all the things to watch out for with such a project.
I'm getting so much vibes of "back to the troopy" 🙂
That makes it 38:62 front/rear weight distribution (with the 300mm chassis extension).
The math says 41:59 front/rear if you’d chosen the 500mm extension and an appalling 32:68 ratio at the stock 3.18m wheelbase length.
Been pondering your +300mm choice for a while...
I think (worth all you have paid for it) that trying to build a "dream tourer" with both options of the tray or camper set up has left in this neither Arthur or Martha situation. The tray/headboard is redundant as are any fittings for removing the camper if you just drop in on. Likewise adding an electrical system for both setups (camper and tabletop standalone) is weight that is caused from (admirably) trying to create neither fish nor fowl. If it is to be a Dream Tourer (it is a magnificent concept) then build it as such and just drop a camper on the 79 sans the tray. Lowering the centre of gravity on this will serve you well offroad I am sure. I have watched this evolve with interest from day one but the tray and headboard (and kind of clunky looking way this then incorporates with the camper honestly do spoil the lines of it and make the wonderful looking Tommy Camper look like an afterthought. GVM is of course the maximum permissible weight, offroad weight is always your enemy and I struggle now that the calculations are down to trying to wring 100kgs or so out of it (without food) just to be at MAXIMUM weight. I look forward to seeing how you get there (as I am sure you will) - I will look for the tray and third battery appearing on ebay perhaps...! Good luck with it !
I would have left that roll bar of the tray or make it removable. You'll only ever need it hauling lumber or such on the tray. It would have put your centre of gravity forward additionally by moving the camper forward.
Andy, Andy, Andy...been watching "Scotty's gone walkabout''. Realised how much stuff you don't need. Ditch the electric kettle, toaster, the 6 billion kilowatt power station...it's camping.
@Mark Somerville
Andrew is not newbie camping. he is just becoming older and comfort requirements are higher, after twenty years of wild camping...he just want coffee and shower in the morning routine no matter camping he or not.
He's obviously stated in previous videos that he wants a more comfortable camp for himself and Gwynn as they have gotten older. Cant blame him. He has already been everywhere and done everything when in comes to overlanding anyway. This is just a different form.
William L yes
He’s said before that he doesn’t like or want a caravan, but he’s built one on the back of a landcruiser.
No he hasn’t
@@lastknownlocation8760 So true.
Scale: shows 4 tonnes
Andrew: the vehicle is too heavy!
proceeds to bolt on new suspension with separate oil reservoirs
wieght (and space) savings can be made on tables, chairs etc by using lightwieght bushwalking equipment such as HELINOX gear. We do this..
you are supposed to start the shocks at the lowest setting and turn them up until you like how it feels
A lot of money to be so far off GVM. How can you plan to fail so badly? The vehicle is at this point illegal and uninsurable.
JohnRolyAU Quickly remove some camping gear and put some water on the garden. That was a check weigh, just as you would do with a backpack or suitcase and sometimes at a helicopter base before flying into the bush for several days. There is always one idiot in a party who packs too much and tries to bully other people into leaving some of their kit behind. I have also checked weights for my tool bag and various tool boxes when I have to carry gear up and down multiple steps and/or a long driveway, except that I do not bother with a weigh scale for that kit.
Hate to pipe up, but as an automotive design engineer I'd have to consider the build a partial failure if GVM is an issue as it's a limit that shouldn't be exceeded, not a target to aim for. Seriously hoping you work something out to be confident in this regard & you keep yourself, your lovely family, every other road user & every pedestrian safe whilst still having the rig of your dreams 🤞
So you're more like 250kg-300kg once you add yourself your wife and food beers realistically plus camera equipment and the dog, removing fuel to save weight should never be an option for anyone travelling these are normally emergency supplies you take for worst-case scenarios.
For me this is way too much fuel consumption would be the through the roof the strain on all the mechanical gear would be through the roof and I wouldn't be doing any corrugations with that setup being over GVM that's a lot of stress to put on that chassis.
Should have done the JMACX 4200 or 4495GVM with GVM upgrade. There for you couldn't have the issue...
How much does the spacer under the camper weigh??
What happened to the old swag and esky no gvm required
I have a vision of you and Gwen walking behind the Dream Tourer while steering it with a remote control. " sorry Gwen....its overweight. This is the best solution I've got for the moment" Kidding aside. It looks awesome. However, I think you'll miss the livability of the troopy on those hot/windy/rainy/cold days.
Thanks Andrew,
As always I watch your videos as soon as I get a moment and they never disappoint. Look forward to following your adventures. My family and I have had a Toyota Hiace campervan for the last 8 years in the UK. She has had a couple of hiccups along the way but never really let us down. Currently in Croatia having been to France, Switzerland, Italy, Slovenia already. Corona Eurotour! Can see why you love them and those land cruisers are iconic.
I literally have a RV box that I am starting to collect items. I literally purchased sporks instead of full on spoons because they save weight. I purchased stainless steel camping bowls etc. The blankets are going to be Rumpl. My daughter has one and it's extremely lightweight and breathable.
Embassy RV has a novel way to handle water. They utilize a dual bladder system for potable and grey water. As on bladder is emptying the other bladder is filled. It's a water system the Marine industry is utilizing.
Fuck that is smart
Cut your toothbrush in half
@@mark2073 gold.
Happy travels Andrew and Gwen.
Keep your other battery and carry about 80 litres of water and fill your fuel tanks when it suits but get rid of;
second spare tyre, hot water system, electric kettle, toaster, oven, block and tackle, roll bar and steel table which will drop your centre of gravity and bring some of that rear weight forward, canopy lift off legs etc, any cast iron cookware, and if you both aim to loose 10kg each you'll feel better and live longer (win-win), second fridge in cab (use cooler bag), collapsable pots and buckets are very heavy, change your chairs to light weight compact and imagine how much space you'll gain too.
Marty from Perth
The colour-coded doors on the camper works a treat.
Reminds me of The Meaning of Life! "Finally Miseour a wafer thin mint."
Andrew, I would like to begin by thanking you for the many excellent videos that you have posted. They have taken me places that I will not go to in this life. However, I do believe that you have lost your way. For many years, you appear to have been a proponent of "Keep it Simple". This "Aussie Dream Bush Tourer" is - in my view - over engineered.
I have waited several days since this video was posted before writing a comment. Reflection and contemplation have brought me to this - you have the right to whichever direction in life you wish to travel, however, I truly believe that this video does not belong on your forum.
Once again, respect, gratitude and admiration for all of the great work that you have done.
Jmacx 4495kg GVM
Getting rid of the toaster isn't gonna cut it, is it Gwynn? GVM upgrade seems the only practical solution. If you are close to max and you hit a big bump... Well you have probably seen JC's video on broken Tritons.
Get rid of the badly designed tray headboard and those "spacer" prob would be a fair bit on weight saving. That Unnecessary big/complicated powers plant doesn't help either.
For such a heavy rig you have surprisingly little storage space.
Love your videos and you knowledge behind them, but can't help but this feels more like... Hey let's bolt all the stuff on it cause free or heavily discounted...
The green troopy seemed so much more practical!
totally agree. This one has many people scratching their heads.
I just gained a lot more respect for you, honest man and seeing the aboriginal flag on the 79 warmed my heart. Enjoy your build mate don't listen to the trolls keep the toaster and kettle haha
I am watching the weight on my build at the moment. Diesel weighs .85 kg per litre. Something to bear in mind when calculating GVM.
What a soundtrack. The quality of these videos, in all aspects, has risen to a plane of its own. I learn something every single video. Commendations.
Enjoying all your videos. Can't wait for the Pilbara. 11 years in PHE and surrounds. Your commentary and advice on all things mechanical and others is super.
One thing a lot of people don't think about is the weight of all the electrical components. Most people consider the weight of a second battery, but don't factor in the charger, manager boxes, displays, fuse panels, inverters and 100's of metres of wiring! I love a basic 12v system to do the essentials, but couldn't justify the weight to go full self sufficient. (Or run the coffee machine and oven). Either way love the build and keen to see the maiden voyage!
With that sort of weight over the rear axle, i would be considering an upgraded diff and axles with the correct axle load rating.
Put skinnier tyres and rims on it that will save lots of kilos that way you can fill your water tank backup and get a lighter mattress but comfortable sometimes you have to compromise ID rather have fuel and water and be safe out in the bush and if you're not going to take the canopy off the back truck why carry the legs around
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ideal 4x4 one where the weight on the frount axles is as close to the rear as possible
E.g. balanced
That's what I was thinking too.
Regardless of GVM issues, the first thing I took away from the weights was that truck could do with having much more stuff up-front.
You wont get that with any 79 series with any sort of tray / canopy.
Usually trucks are built and suspended so they can take more load at the back. To get an idea of where the weight balance should be (front to rear) but non the less, it does seem like a lot more weight at the back.
For pure off road performance thought you are right, close 50-50 distribution is more ideal
Ah yes, the 1st world issue of the modern 'overlander', weight. A 1.25-1.5t camper would have provided you with more comfortable sleeping quarters, you wouldn't have to get the GVM upgrade and would you really need the dual cab ute? Understand the 'I don't want to tow' mindset, however it is the better option (as long as you keep the wife out of the selection process, because you always end up with the 3.5t van).
Hitch the camper when the wife / family join the trip, chuck a swag in the back tray when it’s solo or with mates 👌
It looks fantastic with all the decals, best shot ever at the end!
I'm dying, how is 11 minutes supposed to get me to next week.
Good to see it all together!
Fabulously interesting discussions and feedback. Full disclosure: I'm designing and close to building my own overland tourer and it's based on a LC79 Single cab. I agree the lack of storage behind the seats in a single cab sucks, but I hope I get used to it and instead I don't have to do a 300 mm extension which makes the turning circle s**t, and IMO is introducing a weakness in the chassis. Also the single cabs allegedly have thicker chassis rails due to their Ancap 5 rating, so apart from storage I think it's a better choice. Just like Andrew my goal is to stay well below 3900 Kg, partly because that's the GVM I have chosen but also because I believe that any 4WD that is heavier than say 3700 is just s**t to drive off-road. I'm sure we've all seen Ronny Dahl's videos about that subject. To that extend I fail to understand statements like "you should have taken a unimog, or an Iveco, or a whatever". Sure enough, they may have a slightly stronger chassis, but it's in the end still 4.5 Tonne on the road. I've never driven an Iveco daily but looking at some of the online videos in off road situations those vehicles scare me with the way they sway from left to right when going through holes. Second thing I am struggling with is the suggestion to take a caravan/trailer. Yes, that takes some of the weight off the vehicle and that's great for the chassis and to some extend suspension, but for the engine and driveline it doesn't make one iota of a difference because now you're lugging a heavy trailer behind you and I bet that's harder work for that same engine/driveline than a few extra kilo's on the vehicle itself. Would love to hear some constructive thoughts why my thinking is wrong.
That's a heavy vehicle. too much stuff. Steve
Really I have been negative through this series because many of us were honest and made comments that reflected our frustration with this build.
Nothing is good about this build it looks bad with design issues and functionally problems then it's over GVM and Won't be under unless all the over abundance of stuff is removed including the tray.
Every item has a specification on weight including the car, camper it's not hard to add up every item even before you start.
Tunnel vision must have a 79 but didn't do a GVM upgrade at the start.
He did a GVM upgrade at the start, just not big enough obviously
Totally agree. Unfortunately, this has been a lesson in how not to do it.
It was always going to end badly when he started on the intercooler air vent being around the wrong way.....
Not passing any judgement here like some seem to like doing. Just curious about the storage system in the back seat. I see almost everyone using plywood and mdf to build storage systems for their vehicles. I realize it’s inexpensive and easy to work with, but thinking especially with the caliber of builds you do, why not aluminum? Reduced weight and you gain a little extra space not having 18mm material. Anyways, overweight or not it’s looking great.
I thought the same thing at the time. 80/20 construction is my go to now. Sometimes not as space efficient, but def, lighter.
My guess is the ease of modification is a big factor as well as reduced risk of rattling
Weight, new thing to test out and sound insulation + less vibration
Hope you the best Andrew! Just beware of excessive weight as it could cause the frame to bend. Please keep us updated on what you come up with to reduce weight, I'd love to see that!
Andrew you will work it out and look fwd to the vid on how you do.
Think you should’ve planned the weight prior to the build, there’s plenty of higher GVM upgrade options out there and now having to cut things out. Just isn’t the way I’d work it.
Massive envy but also massively excited for you Andrew! Can't wait for the first treck.
Greetings Andrew, I enjoyed this build (I do enjoy your Africa and Australian Overlanding and also your earlier 4-wheeling videos). I have been watching on a "big-screen" TV where I don't see the comments and so I never noticed the negativity you receive until I re-watched this one on my iPad. Wow you do have patience! Anyway I WOULD LIKE TO CONTRIBUTE MY 2-CENTS WORTH, TO HELP IN YOUR THINKING UP OF SOLUTIONS FOR THE GVM CHALLENGE in a hopefully positive manner, that doesn't piss you and everybody else off 😂..... while at the same time trying to adhere to your design/build concepts, so here goes:
1) So to keep your dual purpose daily driver concept, yes KEEP the Norweld Tray, but have NORWELD or other skilled welder cut the head board tubing down to be flush or just proud of 79 roof line and re-weld the head board tubing at the new lowered height ( and grind smooth) using Aluminium TIG/MIG. Then get rid of the spacer/shim, and redo your plastic slide set up. This is a very in-expensive save on some weight and as a bonus will lower your center of gravity a tiny bit too.
2) Redo the camper water tank from 70 litres to 45 Litres and save another 25kg while still having significant water capacity in keeping with overlanding basics.
3) I Don't think you can reduce fuel capacity, but if you do you will need new smaller auxiliary fuel tank ( I don't want to do that).
4) I understand (edit) that the Tommy Camper is already Aluminium, so no weight to be saved there it seems.
That's all I have for now, not much I know, but one bite at a time and we may get there at minimal cost of any necessary re-work.......
.....or you can go for a big spend and upgrade to 4200GVM but that is a heavy hit and not as much of a fun challenge. Cheers !
We recommended 4495kg GVM at the start Andrew 🤦♂️ well you live and learn.
Hi there, how can you get the higher GVM? Or what does Andrew have to do, or should have done, to get the higher GVM?
@@akaroamale475 Could have bought an Iveco.
@@akaroamale475 at this stage changing springs and shocks could get him to 4200kg GVM or he could weld in a Jmacx 4495kg chassis clip but doing it after all already extending would be a waste of money spent on the original extension. He would nearly need to sell this vehicle and build a new one to fix he's problems around GVM.
The truck is resplendent 👌🏾
@@lawrenceproctor8613 Thankyou
time for the family to go on a diet :)
Remove those windows from the backdoors and change them to lightweight aluminium hatches. Then you can get your cameras quick from outside. And you dont need open the back door to get them. Lightweight aluminium is lighter than glasswindow. If you change the backwindow too to aluminium plate or polycarbonite window you save more weight.
Diesel is lighter than water so you can add a few kgs to your calculations!
0.75 kg per ltr
Andrew, I do not know what the GVM per axle is so I'm gonna assume that most of the weight you want to lose from the back end. My thoughts:
1)Rock slides, too much for your style of overlanding.
2) the rear axle supports the camper on top of a tray on top of a flatbed and I do recall that the tray cannot be deleted due to height issues. But the flatbed could be trimmed? For example that massive chrome tubing aft of the cabin if not mandatory, could reduce the weight as well as correct a little bit the distribution (if the camper can be moved forward).
3) 2nd spare tyre massive massive overkill. Absolutely redundant. And if it was me, I'd lose the aft tyre together with the tyre carrier (bonus reduction!).
4) If the camper's feet could be easily detached that could add up to 10-20kg savings
... And now getting into much more costly ideas:
5) camper rear entry door and side portals made of plastics?
6) rear bumper (all metallic)... Any alternative materials?
7) camper ladder seems super beefy. Could it be trimmed?
8) rear camper girders (raked back) only there for aesthetics. Could be deleted (or replaced by lighter materials)?
9) as of tanks, I have no idea what you sport, but if at all possible to replace steel outboard tanks with plastic inboard ones...
I hope I've given food for thought
Amazing, as always.
Take the rear grab handles off for starters.
LOL
I feel for those rear wheelbearings🤔😆😵🤣
Isn’t the rear axle allowed weight on the 3950 GVM only 2200kgs? Too much weight too far back?
That is the question I asked earlier...the weighbridge ticket says FRONT axle has 1,520kg and the Rear axle has 2,486kg. What we DON'T know is what is the allowable axle loadings?
My Chevy has a GVM of 5,171kg, but if I was to load it to that exact figure, I'd have to ensure that the front wasn't heavier than 2,359kg and the rear no more than 2,812kg as those are the maximum allowable axle ratings and they are the two numbers that give me a 5,171kg GVM.
So, I can be under GVM but still illegal because one of the axles is overloaded.
@@billroach2393 GVM upgrades -i if done well - include a reinforced rear axle that has a higher load rating. For example the JMacX 3900 and 4200 packages have a rear axle rating of 2700 kg and the higher GVMs have a rear axle rating of 3000. That also implies you need rims and wheels rated to halve that value, i.e. 1350 Kg or 1500Kg respectfully. Andrew has another axle so I don't know what his axle load rating is. As far as I know TruTrackers are not legal with those increased GVMs.
Hi Andrew. You reference the manufacturers MAX GVW which was determined before you substantially modified the vehicle. The modifications might have increased the MAX GVM. Springs, tires, rims, frame reinforcement are all key components to determining the original MAX GVM and you have changed all of those components. Good luck and nice job.
Did you think about the 4.2gvm with leafe springs, that is available for the 79 series. Why not even go the 4.45t coiled gvm with chasis extension from jmacx? These options would keep you close to clearing the gvm with 2 poeple in the cab
The decals really put the finishing touches to the build Andrew.I’m looking forward to seeing your trip vids
Could you loose the tray and mount the camper to the chassis?
There's a lot of comments about you should of gone with the 4490GVM but I disagree. Who wants to weigh 4.5 ton and be stuck on a beach or not be allowed to go over certain bridges. You've got the right vehicle set-up there Andrew it's your canopy set-up I think you missed the mark on. With your creativity you could of got Tuff Engineering to build a full aluminium custom unit cheaper than the Tommy. With lower tray and a lot less bulky pop top. So Gwen can reach in the fridge and get things out the back with ease.
Do it for Gwen!
sibhs66 people choose 4495 so that they always remain legal, not to always travel at the weight limit. You can go travelling at 3800kg then have plenty of spare weight capacity for particular occasions.
@@andrewhurstcars Hi Andrew, if they can restrain themselves.
I wonder how much payload you gain with the 4495? That conversion would add a couple of hundred Kg alone I would think. Plus a lot of rules go on GVM not what you weigh. Can't remember the weight before you can't do 110kph. Cheers
Marty
sibhs66 hi Marty, put it this way - you can still do a tricked out double cab 79 with a full Norweld canopy with all the toys upright fridge etc, rooftop tent, bars, Jmacx 4495 conversion, and still come out at about 3750kg all up. It’s the separate tray base and additional camper combined where you gain so much weight.
@@andrewhurstcars Lighter than I expected.
Cheers Andrew.
Marty
Can't believe its that light, that's great. Nice job.
Good on Andrew he is on the right track a Slide on Camper is a great choice it just take years of experience and trial and error to get it working together, at least he is being honest about the process unlike most, maybe try an Australian made Camper
I have never before seen a build where there was no consideration to the weight until after it was finished. 4 ton is amazing. Hope it doesn't 'banana' on you.
He started the series by stating the 'KISS' principle....that went out the window with batteries, toasters, kettles, coffee machines, boilers....
If you look into the Norweld catalog you'll see that Norweld makes a tray without a headboard, exactly what was needed for this build. But that version is reserved by Norweld for when you buy a canopy from them. So what may have been a better idea is to just go to another tray builder that builds custom trays to your own specification. But of course, they may not do that for free.
Yes. But when I remove the camper and need a ute, then what? Headboards are mandatory. But I have a plan ahead.
@@4xoverland I'd like to hear from someone who is well informed in Australian law if that is actually true. Are headboards mandatory? If so, why isn't every Ranger, DMax, etc ute coming with a headboard? If I read the official guidelines for safely carrying a load on a tray you're obliged by law to ensure that your load is restricted in moving in any direction, i.e forward, backward and sideways and ONE of the options you can use to achieve that is a headboard. But if you can safely restrain your load with other mechanisms such as straps, that's also fine.
If you had done a coil conversion from jamax it would have been good with a 4495 gvm
Andrew, I have a solution. empty the fuel tanks and then pull the car as if you were a horse, thus saving 160 kilos from the two passengers that are now dragging the camper and the fuel is another 100+ kilos, therefore saving some additional room for extra things such as firewood, food or coke
hahahahahaha
Personally i see this build as an example of what is available on the market and coming up with ideas possiblly. Companies are highlighted which helps with the marketing side of things.
The GVM question simply adds to the drama.
People will watch these videos because of Andrew himself.
The Aussie tourer has been done by others many times. Some of which have a lot of subs.
Ok, the genre of these other UA-camrs maybe slightly different, but the concept is the same.
Mainly trips which are a few weeks long..maybe a month or so.
I cannot see this vehicle being kept. Andrew is a vehicle builder. It is part of what he does.
There will, i feel, be further videos where the builds will be improved. This happened with the original Troopy builds.
For me the space in the cabin is a nightmare. Far to small to live in should bad weather hit. That and the prospect of folding wet canvas back into the cabin is simply a nono for me.
Having said that, it was mentioned in the last video that there was a dislike of camping in the rain.
There is nothing wrong with getting companies to sponsor a build, but it does limit the build in other ways and that we need to understand. It is no good saying "You should have gone to this and that company" in the comments as it upsets the companies already involved in the deals they have made.
Andrew sources what he feels is the best for him and his build. If he is right or wrong is up to the viewer and their opinion.
With the overland scene becoming bigger due to things like us "Baby Boomer" generation looking for adventure and not just 2 weeks in a Hotel with a beach bar the rise of overland channels has gone crazy. The vanlife big money makers have already seen this coming and have moved their channels to things like building tiny homes to keep the money rolling in with viewers.
The overland scene is no different in this respect with channels reaching saturation point and veying for views.
Although i may disagree with certain aspects of the builds on this channel as well as the travelling aspects, i only see this as a positive which holds my interest. There is no doubt Andrew produces quality production and is well liked by many. It will be interesting to see what will happen in the future with so much competion out there. There is only so much a channel can review and report on before the ideas run out with regard to build videos. Maybe more touring videos will be the future as people get geared up to go travelling?
Would i want to produce these type of videos knowing the time and effort it takes...no. I would rather just enjoy being on the road.
It was great to see through a a setup from start to finish. I enjoyed it a lot like most ppl here but I am also glad its over. Hop, going forward you will focus in the actual travel rather than the hardware.
That’s an outstanding tourer, a real credit to yourself, the experience in setting up shows. Perhaps if you haven’t already considered or may have already, dual under bonnet lifepo4 in parallel?
Weight reduction is a non issue. As you’ve said Test and Adjust your gear to scope it down to weight.
If you were really hard up you could start going all ‘race cars spec’ taking to the camper box and rear doors with a hole saw and dimple die. Swapping out bonnet and fenders for fibreglass or carbon fibre.
Another great one, Andrew. We had our weighed 5 times before I was setting off around Australia. Good on you. Love Rolanda and mark, Auckland NZ
There's probably a lot of camping gear you can live moderately comfortable without. It all adds up. Time to go back to basics with a whiteboard, trim the fat and leave only the essentials. Be ruthless but you will definitely get there
I realise it's it's not a cheap change over & steel has its benefits but an alloy bulbar could save you 50 to 60 odd kilos
hi andrew love watching your builds, thanks, i am doing a custom poptop on a dualcab hilux so following with keen interest what you are doing, thanks for sharing!
...re the shower set up you had in the troopy, did you do the same in the dream tourer? is there post/blog with the full set up (ie plumbing/components etc) of how you set it up in the troopy? ie how do dial in the temperature, and how you plumbed it for using an external water source etc
thanks heaps darren
Remove the 2 extra doors to regain the weight.
that was my first thought. They'd be 50kg each I imagine.
Looks great Andrew! Fantastic work!
It is illegal!!! Unfortunately this build is a lesson in how not to do it.
11:11 I see the kids are sad you're going.
lenstar1 hahaha Time for fun
Pawty time
Barge arse. I know his love of Toyotas, but wrong vehicle/platform to begin with.
Love the 'flux capacitor' sitting between the seats.
@Jbog07 for him a Unimog was enough.
@Jbog07 Rebuilt Perentie (6x6), Iveco, G-Wagen (W461 Pro) or Mog. If he was actually paying cash to build this (as opposed to product 'reviews'/contributions) he would have spent a small fortune, to the point where it is virtually uncommercial. Despite all of this, he is not GVM legal.
It would be nice to know the total cost of this build.
@@nnoddy8161 In previous videos he's talked as to why a Mog/Iveco doesn't suit (climbing in/out to film and vehicle width).
I fall into the minimal style for camping so am in the process of decking out my Perentie 4x4.
@@rumplestiltskin1 The GVM provided by the 70 Series was never going to be enough (even with the upgrade). If the Mog/Iveco is out due to access, then he would have been better off with a W461 or Perentie (6x6) given their significantly greater GVM (and you would not have had to lengthen the chassis on either of them). I just cannot get how much this would have cost to build and it is technically not legal.
@@nnoddy8161 Why do people like you think that your preference is better than someone else's? He is building what he wants.
He has also clearly stated that Iveco doesn't suit his needs and that he is finished with landrover in other videos.
thank you for detail video on your build of the tour as wish best safety travel in Australia