How to Set Copper Rivets By Hand
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- Опубліковано 19 лип 2024
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How to Set Copper Rivets By Hand
Setting copper (and brass) rivets is a simple skill that will open up lots of fun opportunities for you in leather crafting. Copper rivets are simple and strong -- they're also really beautiful. In this video we show you a few different ways to set copper and brass rivets on leather that can also be used on canvas and other similar materials.
Your videos are like getting an IV drip of "Instant Experience". Thank you - you save me hours upon hours of trial and error. I appreciate the time it takes you to make and post the content on your channel. Great work!
You learn from other people's experience and knowledge. 🤔 You also learn from other people's mistakes, so you don't do them yourself. 😉
I've been a leather maker for a bit, far cry from a pro like you guys. Every time you do a video I learn something new, and now with the narrative video I learn even more. Thank you. Please keep them coming.
I'm about to set my first copper rivets on one of my projects and I'm a lot more confident now after watching this. So, thanks for that. 🤝
These videos are so priceless. I really appreciate the time and attention to sharing your craft and deep experiences! And the vocal narrations are a real treat! I also find the variation on how to do things, and the logic behind them, and the variety of approach to be fascinating - these videos become more than just a "how-to", they become a "why-to" with options! Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much for the kind words! We're so glad to hear that, it's exactly what we're trying to do (though we're fairly new to teaching the craft on video!) There are so many ways to do each thing, and you can do them all for different reasons on different projects :)
I just watched another video on this and it seemed like pretty shoddy work. Then I see that there's one by Corter. My gosh I am never disappointed in the quality of information these videos provide. My project I'm designing is going to work so much better with proper rivets.
@@Corterso if you are light weight girly muscles... Which type of hammer is easiest to flatten down rivot... You mentioned peening, creet, and polishing hammer..????
@@CorterI can't seem to find the right hammer to be able to FLATTEN the rivot.. 16oz peening hammer'S not doing it 😢why can't I get these copper rivot to flatten??????????????????
Hello pls answer my comment questions?
Awesome guide to copper rivets, I got some recently and it took me a few rivets to get the hang of it. Now I have more information to add to my arsenal. Thanks.
Excellent! Thanks
I was taught to order 1 size copper. That way, you spend only a slight bit more, but have 1 post that can do any application, since you cut off the excess anyway. Worked out great. Ordered 1000 5/8 posts and get years out of the lot.
I'm going to order some for the first time, I think I'll follow your advice. A few pennies extra is better in my opinion than ordering five different sizes
learning new things in quarantine
Great video!
I also use them in woodworking attaching 2 thin slats together to make calipers, armatures, etc. The trick is to only use hardwood (so it won't split) and use a shim made from aluminum flashing between the slats to keep the joint from getting too tight - drill a hole in the shim the size of the rivet and cut a slot to it so you can pull the shim out after riveting the slats together, this will give you a joint that will move, you can tighten it to just the right tension by tapping the rivet with a ball-peen hammer.
For best strength, cut the rivet one diameter above the burr surface. (aviation riveting standard).
Good comment. Fortunately aviation gives diameter of the shop head.
Many thanks for the great demo! I'm currently renovating a P13 Bayonet, scabbard and leather frog (104 yrs old now!) The frog was so dried out and stiff that I couldn't get the scabbard out to de-rust the metal parts (despite multiple applications of leather reviver). Had to drill out two of the copper rivets to release the lower loop in the end so now I've got to re-rivet it back together once the scabbard is cleaned up. This demo will help no end - I was going to use the existing washers with new rivets but the first washer pinged off to God knows where - just waiting for the pack of new washers to arrive now!
Inexperienced leather worker here... excellent tutorial... thanks so much.
This was a really nice demonstration. Thank you, very useful!
Great video, thank you. That last example looks fantastic. I use rivets in blacksmithing and wasn’t sure if that’s how I was supposed to do it for leather too. Turns out Yes! 👍 Thanks again!
love copper rivets, they look so good and strong bond
Learning with every video. Love hearing your voice!!
Learning a new technique. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome video I’ve been inspired by people like you to make some leather working videos
Love your stuff.
Useful tips as always - the last one was completely new to me and looks fantastic - thanks! :)
Good video, *Thank you!* I have some of those rivets and was not sure how to do it correctly. (I thought the the rivets were too long. Live & learn.) :)
Super handy! I appreciated the variations, from simple to strongest-smoothest-styled. I also find the imperfect attempts instructive too, like "this one is a bit too long...so it's leaning over..."
Muy buenos remaches, la verdad que ese modelo nunca lo e husado
👍👍👍
Wonderful demo! I'll add one point regarding the burr: these are stamped from sheet copper, and often have a sharp side and a domed side. If you feel the outside edge of each side or look closely you'll see it. I usually apply the burr with the sharp side against the leather because it provides a smoother feel. Same goes for just about any other metal washer.
Thought I knew this... Turns out I didn't. Awesome stuff!
Thanks for the video...
Great instruction! I bought some of these rivets but wasn't sure how to use them. Now it's time to play...
You do such a good job of explaining in a simple way😊
Great info! Thanks much!
Another excellent and clear demo.
the 2nd pinning is very nice...
Thanx for the video. Has been awhile!
good job showing how it's done. I remember using these rivets to repair binder canvases on the farm in the 50's and 60's . The short ones were for joining two pieces of canvas or securing a strap to a canvass and the 1 inch ones were used to secure the wooden slats. sometimes these repairs were done in the field using a wrench for a hammer. I remember the outcry when a 1 pound box of mixed length rivets went to $5. I'd hate to guess what they are today.
Great video it will help me out a lot
Awesome video
I love using rivet to my leather works...and i prefer brass rivet more..gud video..i like it
This was awesome thanks very clear
This was great! One question I'm looking to answer is what length does one leave when clipping for a given diameter? I've run into one forum post stating one should leave an amount equal to the diameter. I think yours was a bit shy of that? Curious what you would advise. Thanks!
Great lesson, thanks!
Found out the hard way that the surface you set rivets on and the hammer you use can determine if you ruin your project or get it right
Exactly the video I needed. Thank you!
I am a Stohlman taught leather smith started late 70’s ...Al teaches to rotate the domer while hammering..rounding it off better..
Learned something watching this, Great JOB...Nice production. Thank you!
nice work, sets are great two part tools. just done some for a pirates chest that I didnt have a set for.
I always watch your videos
Got some rivets today - first time trying them out!
Thanks for sharing video.. 👍
Awesome! Thank You
Hey there!
Quick question: I've recently bought some chrome tanned BMW leather but for wallets and stuff like this this isnt really suited (I knew that before but I had multiple reasons to get this anyway ;D)
So now I want to buy some veg tan leather but I like slim wallets/cases etc. . But I also like they way you can burnish veg tan leather... Do you think you can burnish 1.0 - 1.3mm (2.5 - 3 oz) thick leather well? Would appreciate your help alot! ;D
This was very helpful. I sorta messed up my first copper rivet attempt. Now I know what I did wrong and can try again! Thank you!
I love the video but don't recall ever seeing a video where you made something using rivets.
Thank you...this is what i call Craftsmenship
Always learn something from your videos.
i can't believe you're doing all that hammering on a piece of stone. would never have thought that would end well. thanks
Super,thank you
I like the leather washer idea. It looks good and seems to keep the washer from dishing as badly.
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you.
What snips are you using to clip off the river? We have 10” ones from vise grip but it is very difficult to snip?!
Hey man, awesome video. I have a question...can you set thise rivets without using a rivet setter? I mean is it possible to do it without the tool?
Could you please turn the audio up by 30 - 40%? Thank you for the content!
question: I have had the burr popping off again (especially after shortening the rivet) when trying to rivet 2 layers of thick leather - like you are showing in the video. That made fixing the rivet/hammering it down almost impossible. The rivets were long enough, no problem, but I just couldn't get the burrs to stick down. What to do?
A big part of the skill in setting rivets like these is getting a feel for how much rivet you need to stick up above your layers/washer when trimming the rivet. flush cutters are going to need a bit taller post than something that cuts at an angle to make sure you've got enough material to mushroom out on top of the burr so it doesn't just pop off. In short: Try trimming your rivet posts to leave a bit more length and see if that helps
@@bjornsworkshop9288 thank you. Indeed that is what I did. Some I tried not cutting at all even. But with 3 layers of thick leather (and a curve) those burrs were popping off like a champagne cork out of a bottle. :/ though there was ample length (about half the rivet or more) after hammering the burr down with the setting tool at first. They came loose immediately.
Thanks for making this simple and clear video. I'm here because my wife's purse has a broken strap.
Good video
Informative video - Question ? --- Is that a piece of Corian you are using when you use the Hole Punch?? Does Corian NOT DULL the punches ???
Very nice thanks
Hi. I've been looking for the best type of rivet to attach a shotgun cartridge cap to leather. So far I've been taking out the precussion cap and putting a cap rivet in through the middle but I've seen some where they have been attached and still somehow have the original precussion caps. How could I rivet them and not have something sticking all he way through the hole in order to be able to put the cap back in?
perfect i have suscribed :) :)
Can this be used to set snaps as well? Thank you!
Same procedure when placing a rivet in stainless (except for the hole punch)?
Greetings as you call this piece that you hit the rivet I looked on the site but I didn't find
Отличное видео, я такие заклёпки специальным молотком с закруглённым бойком забиваю, и не нужно специальный инструмент использовать.
Could you include a picture?
Thanks for the video. Where is your nice rivet setter from?
Are there any other way to set this rivet without the tool? I've ordered the tool and it's still on route, need to set the rivets right now :(
Hi quick question. What hardware do you match with copper rivets. I have some beautiful leathers that will work so nice but what color hardware I struggle with.
Well explained, thank you, Sir!
I've used those, but unless I need the extra strength I use solid brass Jiffy rivets, I just think they look more consistent and not so rustic. Just a preference, I use this type on say an axe cover, they seem to fit there, but on a bag most folks prefer the Jiffy rivets. They come double dome or flat on one side and dome the other and I never use plated steel hardware on anything I make. I don't like customers coming back with rusty snaps or rivets. If it doesn't say solid brass it is plated steel.
Sounds good! Both of these rivets are solid metal throughout, both copper and brass. Since you have to clip and peen rivets they're never plated as the plating would get ruined, but jiffy rivets are also a good option for lighter weight work!
@@Corter I've done a tear test with Jiffy rivets and before they start to even warp you need 8 oz thick leather other wise the leather tears apart before they do.
Thank you👍👍👍
What the name of this on amazon ?!
I never find it in the internet
👍
Nice video. Thanks.
So when would you use this?
Спасибо!
Nice video.
Very good 👍
Great!
Now with the BUR .. do you want the rounded side down, or the sharp edge side down ?
Thank you.
I love that peening hammer you use in all of your videos. Who makes it? It looks antique, where did you find it?
Very helpful, thank you!
I‘ve never used these types of rivets...just the horribly expensive ones, from the sewing store. But the cost adds up so quickly, maybe it’s time, to put that money into setting tools, instead.
I made my setting tools from a couple bolts. One I drilled on the thread end the length needed to press the bur down. The other I just put a dimple in with a drill bit for doming the rivet. Much cheaper and works well.
Good video👍,I like the attention to detail.
Deberían tener una tienda en Chile 🙁
where can we get this ?
Blacksmith's tip - If you want a nice even dome, Cut the rivet 1 1/2 times the thickness of the rivet above the washer.
Kita beli di mana itu alatx om
Bravo magnifique tuto. Merci
Add a washer before you cut the ribbon and cut it on two sides so that your burp is even and then when you chop down on the rivet it will be the same length for each one
Thank you. 🐣🐇
How about setting brass rivets? Im sure the process is the same but I always struggle with flattening brass rivets.
Same process but yea - brass is a harder metal, so it takes a bit more work :) a heavier hammer helps!
@@Corter
Agree. An arbor press makes for a better end result, imho.
The top side of the rivet can also be domed (Makes a big difference) using a rapid rivet setter...Check out Al Stohlman’s Book of tools...How to use and sharpen them...
You have the most beautiful hands.
It's possible to hammer down directly without doming?
yep! Just be careful as it's a lot easier to bend the rivet inside the leather, so you end up with a joint that isn't as strong