Eric!!! I wanted to respond to your video NOT by being another person pleading their make, model, and problem to the "UA-cam car savior," but to simply say, "thank you." Unlike a lot of these individuals who do not want to take the time to do their own research or even look through past videos you've done, I have used your videos and humble teachings to keep my Prelude running into the 300K's, and looking-sounding-driving awesome. So THANK YOU Eric. I, we, all appreciate your time and effort
Hahaha. Did anyone else notice how depressed he got after he found out it was definitely the clutch? "So, I'm Eric the car guy aaaaand..... I'm gna have to replace this fucking clutch".
Eric the The car guy!!!!!!!! You always pop up when I'm trying to figure out issues with my car/cars... Thank you for the knowledge my guy. It has saved me plenty of money.
Clutch slip is super obvious - RPMs go up faster than your speed increases, you can baby it for a while but failure is inevitable, and if you ignore it too long, eventually you'll lose all friction material on the plates and the clutch won't grip at all....i.e. the car will not be able to move! I've had two clutches go on me and slip for a while, and one time I had a throw out bearing take a crap...that gave no warning, just one day it was super hard to get into any gear, maybe I could find it 1/10 times. But if the car was off, I could shift into any gear just fine. I drove home in second and replaced the clutch. I've only owned manuals over the past 13-14 years and almost all were cable clutches. I LOVE them!!
Red88Rex this is exactly what happened to my mom's mazda 5. I knew I wasn't crazy and something eventually was going to give. now I know symptoms of a giving clutch haha never had it happen to me.
When I got my Sonata it took me forever to get used to the hydrolic clutch, kept stalling it because I couldn't feel the engine, unlike the cable clutches I've driven my entire life. I like hydraulic better but man it takes a long time to get used to
Purchased a 2001 Focus with 5-speed to teach my wife how to drive manual. She liked driving it so much that we sold her minivan and I began replacing the struts and other small problems. It has been a fantastic car for our family and was very surprised when both kid car-seats fit behind my 6-foot frame. Wife was doing very well driving this car till about a month ago, then she started riding the clutch and leaving it in fourth. I am positive the clutch is on its way out. It doesn't catch right away in first and sounds like a new drive easing out with just a bit to much gas. Also, this is hard to be sure with our icy roads as of lately, but while driving if you get on the throttle in any gear it just revs and slowly accelerates like I am driving on ice. Even if the roads look dry it is difficult to know for sure (Alaska). Thanks for the videos.
This kind of video, with emphasis on diagnosis, is absolute gold. Having the wisdom to make the diagnosis with certainty is what separates the wise from the weiner. Of course there are exceptions, and even uncertainty, for any diagnosis. Therefore knowing the exceptions, and knowing what rare treatable circumstance to look for before pronouncement, is critical. Thanks.
Good to see you stressed the freeplay checkout. In addition to slippage another reason to replace a clutch is "chatter" upon initial release. Of course make sure engine mounts are OK before you condemn a clutch for chatter issues. OK,old VW Bug clutch story (there are thousands,I will just tell one). Many times a car came in and the owner says "I let the clutch out and the car does not move". One thing you want to check before you pull the engine and get into clutch repair is if one of the axle nuts has loosened up. These nuts are supposed to be tightened 'really tight" but sometimes they come loose. When the nut is loose the groves on the soft drum can be worn away by the much harder steel of the axle. If a one axle spins inside the drum the Bug does not move The fix is a new drum (with intact spline grooves) and tighten that axle nut down. Now you are a hero for the day as the customer is on his/her way and paid only a fraction of what they were expecting to pay.
@Tom64o They do actually. In your case however I'd be checking the linkage to make sure it's not loose or misadjusted. It's also very important to use Honda fluid in the transmission.
I worked on a Toyota 4x4 pickup that had a hydraulic clutch operation and an adjustable linkage behind the clutch pedal. The owner complained of difficulty getting the car in gear and shifting -- meaning the clutch wasn't full disengaging because the pedal was too high. We lengthened the adjustor to enable full clutch disengagement.
Hey Eric, just wanted to say that after reading your bio, i have a new, more complete understanding and a new respect for who EricTheCarGuy is and why you do what you do. Its only been a week since i found your channel and my automotive knowledge has been seeeeeeriously broadened by your quick tip videos and such. Especially the engine diagnosis one. Anyways, I really appreciate your help to a kid with a passion for cars. GOD BLESS
Cheers man... This has helped me with my 77' beetle... Keep losing power and jerking while shifting up... I thought it may be engine trouble but now I will review the clutch! Keep up the great work... Peace!
How can You tell if a clutch is bad? I have 2013 focus st not sure if clutch is bad or Im not just use to this more stronger clutch. Does the rpm go up and down when you just normaly driving and ingaging amd changing gear?
To make it clear. The engine is supposed to stall on even the highest gear when the clutch pedal is released in a 2-3000 rpm test. If not it's wherry likely that the clutch is worn out or damaged. Testing this way will put a lot of strain on the clutch, so do this only to confirm when in doubt.
It really depends how well you're using it and where (city or highway) you drive your car often. My friend's car's clutch had to be replaced at 85k kilometers. 110k miles is pretty good if you ask me.
Hydraulic clutch pedals can be adjusted for free play on Mitsubishi's (and Proton's for applicable continents), all you need is a 10mm spanner behind the clutch pedal itself. Pretty much critical for adjustment otherwise the clutch will not engage properly and will cause premature wear over time or replacement
The best way to align the first gear, is to put it in 2nd gear first. I find that putting it in 2nd gear before going into first, makes for a smooth gear change.
@@iunnox666 so like when I'm at a dead stop and 1st won't go in for some reason just stick it into 2nd and then it will slide into first before I start pressing the gas?
@@iunnox666 funny enough just noticed it. I guess it just tends to happen when the car has been driven a lot. Particularly on my situation I'll be driving and come up to a stop sign and be at 0 and 1st will think I'm still going faster than 2nd gear even tho it's a dead stop
clayton8or_2 in the case of an under powered car with high grip your rpms wont drop right away. either way revving it up and dumping the clutch will tell you.
Clutch in my Ranger is shot...it will still burn rubber just fine....not a perfect indicator, sadly. Hell, I can downshift on the Interstate and bark the tires, but pulling off on a hill? Clutch whines and slips. Really, my issue is more likely the shitty French Slave (mind out of the gutter, please) than the clutch...but close enough.
Something very similar happened to me while driving a '87 audi. The clutch pedal got stuck down after a miss shift, tho mine didn't feel soft afterwords, so I kept driving the car. About 2 weeks later the clutch went out. The clutch lever had gotten a hole wore threw it, causing the clutch to never fully engage, causing it to wear extremely quickly. I would recommend getting it looked at sooner, rather than later.
My solstice is doing that exact same thing. I put it in higher gears too and nothing, wouldn’t budge or stall. Let go of everything and still no movement. I could rev the engine without holding the clutch or brake. It’s going to the shop soon tho. Bought a new clutch kit, hope that helps.
@BlinginTom Not necessarily. Often reverse gear is not syncronised. That means that when you put into reverse, the gears are still spinning a bit because there´s no syncro rings to stop them. Try putting it into 3rd and then into reverse and see if it helps... If not it´s propably the clutch.
I can move in second and even in third and the clutch was good and the engine is 4 cylinder. If you release the clutch very slowly you can do it and it's a good trick to move when you are on ice or mud since the wheels will spin much slower
Depends where you're driving, how well you're driving it, and how often you drive it. City driving tends to wear the clutch out more than country or highway driving. My truck has 181,749.6km (very exact, I know) of mostly country driving on the odometer and it's still on the original clutch.
Clutch slipping is easy. When mine failed, I could not put my car into gear when running, The clutch pedal was fine. I had to start the car in gear then shift without the clutch to get home.
Hey Eric! My 1999 VW Polo Classic was laid up for 2 years. Now in all the gears, the car speeds up but soon the engine just increases revs without picking up speed. After driving it for a few days, things seemed fine but in my way back the same issue restarted. What do you think?
oh this guy was a terrible seller he just denied it and got angry at me and my friend who were being nice so we left! but hey now I own an 06 g35 coupe!! MT.
Some autos do have clutch packs internally AFTER the TQ, those can be burned out "welded" As well. You can hear drag guys and racers talk about "welding the packs" They mean in an auto trans that fluid broke down, or boiled, and the clutch packs where allowed to rub without lube which seizes them and then the clutch packs go bad.
My 2005 mitsubishi lancer has 175k miles. Ok so i was in 4th gear and shifted into 5th all the sudden my revs started going up but the car wasnt going. So i pulled on the side of the road stopped and put it into 1st gear again my revs started going high and the car was barely moving. I managed to get to the nearest parking lot when i got there my car smelt like really burnt clutch. Is my clutch gone bad? I had to get my car towed home. The car still runs it just barely moves when i put it into gear it wont go forward nor backwards
Can somebody help me so I recently had a new clutch installed on my 350z and it's super light and sensitive and the biting point is so low. And also in my level parkway when I'm in first with the clutch all the way in if I let of the brake the car moves foward a bit with the clutch all the way in is this normal for new clutches?
Tony the Lakers Fan depends on stage clutch, I have stage 3 clutch I bite midway and lol depends brand, so bassicly it is normal but on that clutch. Also theres a variety of clutches you can choose via "companys"
It sounds like it needs to be adjusted off of the floor. If it's hydraulic you might be able to adjust the throw of the rod going from the pedal assembly to the clutch master cylinder. You may also want to make sure the fluid has been bled and doesn't have an air in the lines.
I had this exact issue recently, it was the master and slave cylinder (i had them repaired instead of replaced). Reverse was impossible to enter unless i revved it in neutral first, and first would stay engaged with the pedal pushed flat to the floor, 2nd to other gears would shift but pedal was so light. TLDR: Master and slave cylinder, also, always do both
I have a 1984 Chev c-20 with a granny 4 speed. Installed a new clutch assembly. After about a week I adjusted the clutch in a small bit. After about three months, without any new adjustments, I'm having trouble shifting gears. What have taken place to cause this... your thoughts. Thanks 👍 Forgot to mention that this is a mechanical clutch assembly.
hey eric, i have a question, my clutch works fine (2000 ford focus) there is no vibration at the stick (standard transmission) but whenever i accelerate, especially higher gears i hear a noise coming from the gearbox or clutch, sounds like a rattling noise (obviously it only does it when gear is engaged).. thank you!! (you're great)
I have same problem thanks to your video I know that its cluch nothing else I m com down I was driving my car and by accident I switch from 6th to 3rd gear and car just completely stop then I heard grinding noise and everytime I press the cluch no reaction I check the fluid it was normal and let's hope its cluch cuz dealer told me it would cost me $6,000 to replace transmission :( by the way my car is Audi s4 :(
Thanks for the video. So…what if the clutch engages way too low…that is the clutch starts to engage when the pedal is barely off the floor. Could that be an adjustment issue (2004 Mazda6)? Or is the clutch, pressure plate, etc shot? It doesn’t seem to slip at all once engaged.
I'm having the opposite problem with my miata. The clutch seems like it won't disengage, so it's difficult to put into gear and it will stall with the pedal pushed down and it's hard to start it in gear. I really hope I don't need a whole new clutch!
RobotsWithShotguns I'm pretty sure it's the slave cylinder. I got on the ground and touched it and there was grime on it. I added fluid and bled the line and it's working great now. I ordered a new slave cylinder and it's supposed to arrive tomorrow.
Might also have had a spring released from the clutch disk. It can then wedge/jam itself and LOCK the flywheel disk & pressure plate as though it were one solid piece. Had that occur on an 87 Escort. so had to start in neutral to warm it up then start in gear and sync speeds to shift ... and plan route to get home to fix it that had no stops or at least none that were uphill..
Kris toffer J Thank you, but I think it was definitely just a worn out release cylinder. After I added fluid it worked okay, after I bled it it worked fine, and after I changed the release cylinder it works amazing! I just changed the shift turret oil today, and that seems to have me a big difference. I want to replace the turn boot shift boots.
Something I was taught ages back was where the clutch actually bites. If it bites when the pedal is half way down it's fine, but if it bites right at the very top it's starting to fail.
An African temporary fix for a slipping clutch on a Land Rover costs nothing! Of course it is only a temporary fix that might only get you to the next town. Somehow urine needs to be got into the bell housing. This decomposes to ammonia which strips grease or oil from the slipping plate. In the bush there are no garages and no spare parts so travellers need to be able to cope with breakdowns. Allegedly the tip was given to the stranded tourists by a native so never underestimate the locals. His tip of "Piss on it!" did get the Land Rover to the next town. Voila!
Thanks! I've been researching it some more too and it looks like the clutch master cylinder is most likely the problem. I ordered both the master and slave cylinders. Now I'm just waiting for some warmer and drier weather to replace them.
Another test is put the car in 3rd gear and without touching the gas pedal , start to release the clutch slowly.. the car should stall immediately when the clutch plate catches ..if it’s catching and moving the car forward it’s wearing out and slipping
EricTheCarGuy Can someone help please, because i'm really worried. My engine was off and i did not have my foot on the clutch but still shift into my gears smoothly. Is this normal??
👍I have a 2005 Mini Cooper R52 and when I press(engage) the clutch with the engine on I feel a slight grinding and a slight noise, the gears go in real well as I drive or stationary, do in wondering if my clutch is adjustable or needs grease or what? I’d appreciate it. Ralph!
Hi great video...I have a 2018 Kia Forte...bought the car breand new...never gave me problems 3 days ago it started acting like the battery needs charge..I check the charge with multimeter it reads 12.70v...it seems good charge...when I try and start the car it sounds like the battery is low on charge...but when I press down the clutch super hard it starts right up...do you think its needs a clutch..adjustment???
I'm wondering this cause the garage who have my car is saying the hesitation in my mini is caused by the clutch but it doesn't slip, car stalls if in gear and you just let the clutch out. My problem feels more like fuel starvation
@@electronJarvs you could check your issue with a wideband or front 02 and see if it goes lean, that would indicate fuel starvation. For me I posted 3 years ago and it turned out to be most likely a bent rod or broken piston ring. eventually the block got a hole in it. it didnt throw a rod I think it was fuel/air that escaped out of the combustion chamber and into the crank case
@@electronJarvsi have a mini also with a clutch that is slipping ever so slightly. i was going to reply but seeing as how the thread is years old im sure you got it sorted out by now
@@CRT4Dummies yea, got a cheap laptop and installed ista....fuckrrs tried ripping me off turned out to be just a coil pack. Cost £20 to fix instead of the £400 plus they wanted. Was German autocentre in Sheffield
Thank you so much. I am starting to drive manual transmission now and this video basically helped me to self inspect my transmission's clutch. Thanks :)
hi eric great video I have a thumping noise when i change gear reverse and forward ? Now here is the weird thing? mounts ok it seem thumping coming from drivers side that uk car-right side noise wheel suspension not sure?
Eric, I have a 2007 Corolla, I replaced the Clutch Disc,, pressure plate and release bearing on it about 3 months ago. I also resurface the flywheel as well. Well coming down a hill, i started hearing clicking noise from the transmission and now it wont go into reverse but it will go into all other CV shaft but i cant understand where the screaming noise when i am in regular gears. I need your advice please Thanks
+Lizandro Ortix No if you try to take off from 3rd gear and it doesnt grab super great and the rpms stay high when you let the clutch then its probably slipping
Goddamnit! I purchased a 2008 Mazda 3 hatchback with 69,000 miles 2 years ago as a 3rd hand owner. The 1st owner was allegedly a woman and now at 77,000 miles i'm feeling it slip pretty badly in 4th and 5th gear.
Many many thanks to this interesting and fruitful video. I would like to ask sir, would a bad clutch do affect the engine's power specially in the 3rd gear or above ? I have a '98 Toyota Tercel, the power decrease when i reached on the 3rd gear, 4th and 5th gear., These happened specially when A/C is ON and when the road inclined, the power decrease even without A/C. Do I need to replace my clutch?. Thanks for your advise people.
I love ford's but even I have to say that their clutch system is usually poorly engineered. If you don't bleed them 60 to 100k miles than you will roast your clutch.
If i'm not wrong, those are DSG gearboxes.wich have two clutches. DSG gearboxes are actually two separate manual gearboxes in the same housing, working together. By using two independent clutches a DSG gearbox have very short shift times and having dual clutches eliminates the need for a torque converter. So yeah, it's a different kind of automatic.
you're both right. The torque converter is driven by the engine, and its output drives the planetary gears. The clutches and bands are used to stop certain parts of those planetary gears while letting others move, in a way that provides only one pathway for the engine's torque to be transferred to the drive wheels. If all the clutches and bands are disengaged, the transmission acts as if it was a manual transmission in Neutral.
I am having no problems like you described with my clutch. My problems are that it won't even go into gear. It seems to be stuck in neutral and the stick just moves freely. The pedal feels fine and there is no noise. It's at the shop and they won't get back to me till tomorrow. Any ideas what it could be?
Eric, 2006 Subaru Impreza, got a new clutch, now I can't drive it very well, release of the pedal is really high, will not grab until the clutch pedal is all the way out. Makes it really hard to get started from a dead start. I supposedly had a bad throw-out bearing. I had whining and screaming when it was colder outside. If it was warm outside, no noise. Clutch would grab as you started to release the clutch. Now I can't get it to grab until it is completely release. I have to learn how to drive it again. Cynthia
I found some techniques on the web that involve worming the engine and then slammin' the clutch pedal or stuff like that, but I really want to hear your opinion before I go do that on my little van. Thank you very much in advance. I would really appreciate the help. I don't really want to take the van apart at the moment, I'm trying to get it to run as soon as possible. Best wishes from Bucharest!
i have been having an issue with my car. in lower gears i wasnt getting much traction. i didnt know if it was the clutch or the tires. being winter, it was more likely the tires. but hearing the advice of eric, i can pretty much verify my suspicions that its just tire spin.
I felt that too but its dry so it cant be the tires so its the clutch , im going in the freeway 60mph on 5th gear and i press the gas and it wosent give power to move
ya, 5th gear i dont have much power per say, but it does go to the ground. so i am lucky that the clutch on my 3rd had jetta seems to be in good shape. you sir, may not be so lucky. i would get that checked out before you get stranded. i used to drive a vr4, but the clutch went on that. do you have any idea how embarassing it is to be towed when your car looks fine? ppl look at you like you blew up your engine.
jose lopez to be fair, 5th or 6th (if ya got one of dem fancy 6 speeds) should really only be used as a gas saver gear. Just like over drive on an auto. I only use 5th if I'm traveling a steady speed. It's actually less fuel efficient to use 5th or 6th and try to accelerate under 2k rpms
Have a NV3500 making a sound as you release the clutch like there are rocks loose spinning in the bell housing/gear box(hard to decipher). Just hoping with all of your work you may know of what could make that sound. Only happens as I am releasing clutch, not when pedal's up idling or is fully released and in gear. In other words, only makes noise (like rocks tossing about) when the clutch is early to mid throw, once gear is selected, no noise.
I got a 1998 Honda Accord 5speed. You can push the clutch pedal in and it works but the shifter won’t go in any gear real hard to move it either sticks in first or reverse and sometimes you can get it to neutral and most time it grinds and stalls.
I replaced mine unnecessarily when I was in my 20s ( UK Ford Escort ) because I drove home from a party with a horrendous hangover and was driving so badly I convinced myself the clutch was bad. A dumb ass mate of mine who had changed the clutch in a rear wheel drive Cortina assured me it was easy. He abandoned me on night 1 and it took me two weeks and many tool purchases to get the job done. When I pulled out the original clutch plate it looked as good as new. Tricky job on a FWD vehicle.
to add on to my question below, it only made bad sounds while the clutch pedal was pressed, im thinking it could have been one of the springs that got loose? bearing sound ok, and there is no sound now, but its shaking really bad when starting in 1st, could it be that the flywheel was damaged?
Thanks for the very helpful infos. What if the pedal is very stiff? mine is hydraulic type clutch on a 2.8li diesel engine..Does it have something to do with the clutch? i dont see any problem on both master and slave cyl, no unusual sticking nose too..tia
hydraulic clutches are adjustable its the rod that connects the mastercylinder to the pedal its a locking nut you loosen then you can adjust the pedal height by turning the rod
Whenever I has a clutch go bad, it was due to weak or broken fingers on the pressure plate. The result was clutch drag. I've never had a clutch slip. My Jeep has a hydraulic clutch; the '78 Gremlin I once had had a clutch cable and my '69 AMX has a good old mechanical linkage.
Dude so I don’t know if it’s my clutch or my trans but I can definitely put my s10 in gear and it just doesn’t do anything at all and it actually will go into all of the gears but no movement at all and from what you said in this video I feel like it’s my clutch
GRACIAS POR LOS VIDEOS ERICK SON UNOS VIDEOS MUY PROFECIONALES Y Y MUY BUENOS...THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS, ARE VERY PROFESSIONAL VIDEOS AND GOOD VIDEOS FOR ME... ERICK.. GOD BLESS YOU
this is happening to my 2007 focus and just wondering if you could let me know what all you changed to get it to run again ? And does this happen because the clutch was worn out?
11 years later, and this video helped me confirm my clutch issues. Clear and straightforward advice and diagnosis steps. Thanks!
Eric!!! I wanted to respond to your video NOT by being another person pleading their make, model, and problem to the "UA-cam car savior," but to simply say, "thank you."
Unlike a lot of these individuals who do not want to take the time to do their own research or even look through past videos you've done, I have used your videos and humble teachings to keep my Prelude running into the 300K's, and looking-sounding-driving awesome.
So THANK YOU Eric. I, we, all appreciate your time and effort
Hahaha. Did anyone else notice how depressed he got after he found out it was definitely the clutch? "So, I'm Eric the car guy aaaaand..... I'm gna have to replace this fucking clutch".
This is funny cause my names Eric and I have to replace my clutch....
That’s hilarious I met a guy named big dick Ted and my name is Frank.
@@dotcalm8228 no way i met a guy named stacy and my name is elvis
That's also crazy, cause my name is Erick. & i have to replace the clutch in my 03 ford focus too
That is so humorous because my name is Fred and I too have to change my clutch
Eric the The car guy!!!!!!!!
You always pop up when I'm trying to figure out issues with my car/cars... Thank you for the knowledge my guy.
It has saved me plenty of money.
Clutch slip is super obvious - RPMs go up faster than your speed increases, you can baby it for a while but failure is inevitable, and if you ignore it too long, eventually you'll lose all friction material on the plates and the clutch won't grip at all....i.e. the car will not be able to move! I've had two clutches go on me and slip for a while, and one time I had a throw out bearing take a crap...that gave no warning, just one day it was super hard to get into any gear, maybe I could find it 1/10 times. But if the car was off, I could shift into any gear just fine. I drove home in second and replaced the clutch.
I've only owned manuals over the past 13-14 years and almost all were cable clutches. I LOVE them!!
I'm having the same problem. Might as well do the entire clutch if you have it out to do the TO bearing. Beats replacing a transmission:) Manuals FTW!
Red88Rex this is exactly what happened to my mom's mazda 5. I knew I wasn't crazy and something eventually was going to give. now I know symptoms of a giving clutch haha never had it happen to me.
When I got my Sonata it took me forever to get used to the hydrolic clutch, kept stalling it because I couldn't feel the engine, unlike the cable clutches I've driven my entire life.
I like hydraulic better but man it takes a long time to get used to
Red88Rex thank you for the explanation my car is going through this right now
Damn just yesterday my Porsche 924 did this. Looks like a new clutch then.
Purchased a 2001 Focus with 5-speed to teach my wife how to drive manual. She liked driving it so much that we sold her minivan and I began replacing the struts and other small problems. It has been a fantastic car for our family and was very surprised when both kid car-seats fit behind my 6-foot frame.
Wife was doing very well driving this car till about a month ago, then she started riding the clutch and leaving it in fourth. I am positive the clutch is on its way out. It doesn't catch right away in first and sounds like a new drive easing out with just a bit to much gas. Also, this is hard to be sure with our icy roads as of lately, but while driving if you get on the throttle in any gear it just revs and slowly accelerates like I am driving on ice. Even if the roads look dry it is difficult to know for sure (Alaska).
Thanks for the videos.
This kind of video, with emphasis on diagnosis, is absolute gold. Having the wisdom to make the diagnosis with certainty is what separates the wise from the weiner. Of course there are exceptions, and even uncertainty, for any diagnosis. Therefore knowing the exceptions, and knowing what rare treatable circumstance to look for before pronouncement, is critical.
Thanks.
Good to see you stressed the freeplay checkout. In addition to slippage another reason to replace a clutch is "chatter" upon initial release. Of course make sure engine mounts are OK before you condemn a clutch for chatter issues.
OK,old VW Bug clutch story (there are thousands,I will just tell one). Many times a car came in and the owner says "I let the clutch out and the car does not move". One thing you want to check before you pull the engine and get into clutch repair is if one of the axle nuts has loosened up. These nuts are supposed to be tightened 'really tight" but sometimes they come loose. When the nut is loose the groves on the soft drum can be worn away by the much harder steel of the axle. If a one axle spins inside the drum the Bug does not move The fix is a new drum (with intact spline grooves) and tighten that axle nut down. Now you are a hero for the day as the customer is on his/her way and paid only a fraction of what they were expecting to pay.
@Tom64o They do actually. In your case however I'd be checking the linkage to make sure it's not loose or misadjusted. It's also very important to use Honda fluid in the transmission.
I worked on a Toyota 4x4 pickup that had a hydraulic clutch operation and an adjustable linkage behind the clutch pedal. The owner complained of difficulty getting the car in gear and shifting -- meaning the clutch wasn't full disengaging because the pedal was too high. We lengthened the adjustor to enable full clutch disengagement.
i'll check that out, thanks, the car i'm driving is a Toyota mr2 turbo.
You, sir, are the win. You helped me learn something today, and properly diagnose the apparently abused clutch on my bought-used 1995 SL1.
Eric, I just found your channel, and after watching it I've learned several things I can do to repair my clutch. THANK YOU.
Hey Eric, just wanted to say that after reading your bio, i have a new, more complete understanding and a new respect for who EricTheCarGuy is and why you do what you do. Its only been a week since i found your channel and my automotive knowledge has been seeeeeeriously broadened by your quick tip videos and such. Especially the engine diagnosis one. Anyways, I really appreciate your help to a kid with a passion for cars. GOD BLESS
Ok
@@littlereptilian7580Ok
11 years later I bet you’re a pro now!
I guess my clutch is good, I Just suck at driving
Oni Mori 😂😂😂😂
That clutch won't last long
Oni Mori 😂😂😂😂
You must be living or from CA.
i guess my clutch was good ...
A bad clutch on a 2002 focus is called Totalled.
Called beater. Bad tranny on a automatic is totaled. Respect beaters!
It’s a one day fix in the drive way goofy
A manual transmission is never totaled
@@theethuntv until u lose some gears
@@theethuntv Tell that to the last getrag on my 330i that welded itself from the inside
Cheers man... This has helped me with my 77' beetle... Keep losing power and jerking while shifting up... I thought it may be engine trouble but now I will review the clutch! Keep up the great work... Peace!
I love the man’s honesty right off the bat! Sold me he is a good mechanic, and a real man! 👊
When your engine is making a lotta noise but ya ain't going no where, it's probably the clutch
How can You tell if a clutch is bad? I have 2013 focus st not sure if clutch is bad or Im not just use to this more stronger clutch. Does the rpm go up and down when you just normaly driving and ingaging amd changing gear?
@@totov7673 Not sure with anything that new did it allways do that?
@@totov7673 more importantly most focuses are sutomatic
Which don't have a clutch
@@yeetbomb2015 The focus ST model is diffrent it only comes with a manuel 6 speed stick it has a clutch.
To make it clear. The engine is supposed to stall on even the highest gear when the clutch pedal is released in a 2-3000 rpm test. If not it's wherry likely that the clutch is worn out or damaged.
Testing this way will put a lot of strain on the clutch, so do this only to confirm when in doubt.
It really depends how well you're using it and where (city or highway) you drive your car often. My friend's car's clutch had to be replaced at 85k kilometers. 110k miles is pretty good if you ask me.
Mine is slipping at 280,000km (170,000 miles) in my Saturn SL. I don’t feel like changing it, but I feel like it did pretty good.
@@AudioOrchardMusic196K miles on my ‘05 Carolla. Wonder if it’s even worth fixing. But I’m in no place for a new car. She lasted a good while though
I'm currently at 104k miles on the original clutch.
@@AudioOrchardMusichow long did your car last if you used it?
@Motorchevytoyota That's a tribute to your driving abilities.
Hydraulic clutch pedals can be adjusted for free play on Mitsubishi's (and Proton's for applicable continents), all you need is a 10mm spanner behind the clutch pedal itself. Pretty much critical for adjustment otherwise the clutch will not engage properly and will cause premature wear over time or replacement
The best way to align the first gear, is to put it in 2nd gear first. I find that putting it in 2nd gear before going into first, makes for a smooth gear change.
Is that a joke?
@@gavinlorenz6837 You don't start in second, you just throw the stick there before putting it in first to get going.
@@iunnox666 so like when I'm at a dead stop and 1st won't go in for some reason just stick it into 2nd and then it will slide into first before I start pressing the gas?
@@gavinlorenz6837 Yep. Sometimes my car doesnt want to go into 1st and I have to do that.
@@iunnox666 funny enough just noticed it. I guess it just tends to happen when the car has been driven a lot. Particularly on my situation I'll be driving and come up to a stop sign and be at 0 and 1st will think I'm still going faster than 2nd gear even tho it's a dead stop
Sorry to see you go Eric. I'm gonna miss your videos. Up till you bought the Fairmont, your videos were one of the most informative ones on UA-cam.
This place looks like the inside of Los Santos customs from GTA V lol
"What's wrong with her now?" lol
Gun X Umbrella if that car was a woman id kiss her
0:03 this Ford looks like it just pulled up to a Pay'n'Spray
dude im pretty sure los santos customs from GTA V looks like This Place.
''If that car was a woman, i'd kiss her!''
Couldn't of asked for a better guide to diagnosing the clutch. Thank you.
1:17 Man, you remind me of George Clooney. Awesome.
eric i love you videos ive been in the field working in a dealer since october and i feel at home!
We're burnin' this clutch!! haha love it
I'm not good at cars, but you are really good at explaining how things work! I subbed!
Yo from Scandinavia.
A more fun way to tell is if the car will do a burnout or not by revving it high and dumping the clutch. If the tires spin then you're fine
Kid Mechanic I like your thinking.
_when you have a 170hp AWD vehicle..._
And if they don’t spin.... you have a heft bill.
clayton8or_2 in the case of an under powered car with high grip your rpms wont drop right away. either way revving it up and dumping the clutch will tell you.
Clutch in my Ranger is shot...it will still burn rubber just fine....not a perfect indicator, sadly. Hell, I can downshift on the Interstate and bark the tires, but pulling off on a hill? Clutch whines and slips. Really, my issue is more likely the shitty French Slave (mind out of the gutter, please) than the clutch...but close enough.
Something very similar happened to me while driving a '87 audi. The clutch pedal got stuck down after a miss shift, tho mine didn't feel soft afterwords, so I kept driving the car. About 2 weeks later the clutch went out. The clutch lever had gotten a hole wore threw it, causing the clutch to never fully engage, causing it to wear extremely quickly. I would recommend getting it looked at sooner, rather than later.
My solstice is doing that exact same thing. I put it in higher gears too and nothing, wouldn’t budge or stall. Let go of everything and still no movement. I could rev the engine without holding the clutch or brake. It’s going to the shop soon tho. Bought a new clutch kit, hope that helps.
@BlinginTom Not necessarily. Often reverse gear is not syncronised. That means that when you put into reverse, the gears are still spinning a bit because there´s no syncro rings to stop them. Try putting it into 3rd and then into reverse and see if it helps... If not it´s propably the clutch.
The trick is to start at 3rd gear.
a good clutch should stall always
You can always pull of in 2nd with a good clutch
@@callumbalch6484 not with a car with 100 torque lol I've tried and my clutch is 4 months old
l KillerCam l go smoother
callum balch
I can move in second and even in third and the clutch was good and the engine is 4 cylinder. If you release the clutch very slowly you can do it and it's a good trick to move when you are on ice or mud since the wheels will spin much slower
Enjoy Eric's vids for years. Keep up the great work.
Depends where you're driving, how well you're driving it, and how often you drive it. City driving tends to wear the clutch out more than country or highway driving. My truck has 181,749.6km (very exact, I know) of mostly country driving on the odometer and it's still on the original clutch.
Eric your echo is godly are you one of the car gods?
Clutch slipping is easy. When mine failed, I could not put my car into gear when running, The clutch pedal was fine. I had to start the car in gear then shift without the clutch to get home.
But that damages synchros?
Toasted synchros maybe. Try double clutching next time
Hey Eric! My 1999 VW Polo Classic was laid up for 2 years. Now in all the gears, the car speeds up but soon the engine just increases revs without picking up speed. After driving it for a few days, things seemed fine but in my way back the same issue restarted. What do you think?
dude tried to sell me his 350z with a burnt clutch like this and denied it so bad Lol.
lol how much of a discount was he willing to go. If all it needed was a clutch that's not a big deal, unless he was going full price.
oh this guy was a terrible seller he just denied it and got angry at me and my friend who were being nice so we left! but hey now I own an 06 g35 coupe!! MT.
KpopNiDontStop Niceeee
KpopNiDontStop Not bad! 2 seats situation is killing me :(
haha the back seats of the g35 are okay they are torture chambers for people above 5 ft 7inchs.
Some autos do have clutch packs internally AFTER the TQ, those can be burned out "welded" As well. You can hear drag guys and racers talk about "welding the packs" They mean in an auto trans that fluid broke down, or boiled, and the clutch packs where allowed to rub without lube which seizes them and then the clutch packs go bad.
Is there any way to shorten the clutch? so you dont have to push it so far down and it doesnt sit so high from the ground?
Nevezla adjust the clutch pedal itself
the cable on the clutch fork right by the bellhousing
Eric Great Video, I have a very hard clutch to push in, can you change the spring or finger rate? Thanks
My 2005 mitsubishi lancer has 175k miles.
Ok so i was in 4th gear and shifted into 5th all the sudden my revs started going up but the car wasnt going. So i pulled on the side of the road stopped and put it into 1st gear again my revs started going high and the car was barely moving. I managed to get to the nearest parking lot when i got there my car smelt like really burnt clutch. Is my clutch gone bad? I had to get my car towed home. The car still runs it just barely moves when i put it into gear it wont go forward nor backwards
Check your cv axles.
Thank you for your video, I have a question on a 2013 Toyota Avensis diesel car, Panda clutch or actuator be adjusted?
Can somebody help me so I recently had a new clutch installed on my 350z and it's super light and sensitive and the biting point is so low. And also in my level parkway when I'm in first with the clutch all the way in if I let of the brake the car moves foward a bit with the clutch all the way in is this normal for new clutches?
Tony the Lakers Fan depends on stage clutch, I have stage 3 clutch I bite midway and lol depends brand, so bassicly it is normal but on that clutch. Also theres a variety of clutches you can choose via "companys"
It sounds like it needs to be adjusted off of the floor. If it's hydraulic you might be able to adjust the throw of the rod going from the pedal assembly to the clutch master cylinder. You may also want to make sure the fluid has been bled and doesn't have an air in the lines.
Same issue in my 04 Stang GT
I had this exact issue recently, it was the master and slave cylinder (i had them repaired instead of replaced).
Reverse was impossible to enter unless i revved it in neutral first, and first would stay engaged with the pedal pushed flat to the floor, 2nd to other gears would shift but pedal was so light.
TLDR: Master and slave cylinder, also, always do both
Thank you for sharing 👍
If the car stalls in 1st gear is that good
What do you mean.Obviously if you release the clutch faster is gonna stall in 1 gear
Ya real good
I have a 1984 Chev c-20 with a granny 4 speed. Installed a new clutch assembly. After about a week I adjusted the clutch in a small bit. After about three months, without any new adjustments, I'm having trouble shifting gears. What have taken place to cause this... your thoughts. Thanks 👍 Forgot to mention that this is a mechanical clutch assembly.
it goes without saying it. driving manual is becoming a lost art.
in america
When driving for fun, manual all the way. Driving in heavy stop/start traffic, I'll take the auto and provided it's good enough a CVT.
Lukas Graphen everywhere. Europeans will switch to electrics to feel power again.
shiftable automatics now.
You can drive em auto for city....or shift em for country/back roads.
@@bigjermini They've got ladyboys now too if you're trying to have it both ways so bad 😂
hey eric, i have a question, my clutch works fine (2000 ford focus) there is no vibration at the stick (standard transmission) but whenever i accelerate, especially higher gears i hear a noise coming from the gearbox or clutch, sounds like a rattling noise (obviously it only does it when gear is engaged).. thank you!! (you're great)
I have same problem thanks to your video I know that its cluch nothing else I m com down I was driving my car and by accident I switch from 6th to 3rd gear and car just completely stop then I heard grinding noise and everytime I press the cluch no reaction I check the fluid it was normal and let's hope its cluch cuz dealer told me it would cost me $6,000 to replace transmission :( by the way my car is Audi s4 :(
Thanks for the video.
So…what if the clutch engages way too low…that is the clutch starts to engage when the pedal is barely off the floor. Could that be an adjustment issue (2004 Mazda6)? Or is the clutch, pressure plate, etc shot? It doesn’t seem to slip at all once engaged.
I'm having the opposite problem with my miata. The clutch seems like it won't disengage, so it's difficult to put into gear and it will stall with the pedal pushed down and it's hard to start it in gear. I really hope I don't need a whole new clutch!
Sounds like the master or slave cylinder.
RobotsWithShotguns I'm pretty sure it's the slave cylinder. I got on the ground and touched it and there was grime on it. I added fluid and bled the line and it's working great now. I ordered a new slave cylinder and it's supposed to arrive tomorrow.
I ended up changing the slave cylinder. It had leaked the fluid.
Might also have had a spring released from the clutch disk. It can then wedge/jam itself and LOCK the flywheel disk & pressure plate as though it were one solid piece. Had that occur on an 87 Escort.
so had to start in neutral to warm it up then start in gear and sync speeds to shift ... and plan route to get home to fix it that had no stops or at least none that were uphill..
Kris toffer J Thank you, but I think it was definitely just a worn out release cylinder. After I added fluid it worked okay, after I bled it it worked fine, and after I changed the release cylinder it works amazing!
I just changed the shift turret oil today, and that seems to have me a big difference. I want to replace the turn boot shift boots.
Once again i learn something new from Eric!
Something I was taught ages back was where the clutch actually bites. If it bites when the pedal is half way down it's fine, but if it bites right at the very top it's starting to fail.
exact same problem.thanks 4 the helpful video
An African temporary fix for a slipping clutch on a Land Rover costs nothing! Of course it is only a temporary fix that might only get you to the next town. Somehow urine needs to be got into the bell housing. This decomposes to ammonia which strips grease or oil from the slipping plate. In the bush there are no garages and no spare parts so travellers need to be able to cope with breakdowns. Allegedly the tip was given to the stranded tourists by a native so never underestimate the locals. His tip of "Piss on it!" did get the Land Rover to the next town. Voila!
+Tech Davey Never underestemate the power of piss! :D
+Tech Davey oh my , we are inventive on the troll channel
it is also amazing how much abuse they can have before critical failure.
Tech Davey Bear Grylls would be proud.
Tech Davey yer talking pish man...
Thanks! I've been researching it some more too and it looks like the clutch master cylinder is most likely the problem. I ordered both the master and slave cylinders. Now I'm just waiting for some warmer and drier weather to replace them.
Another test is put the car in 3rd gear and without touching the gas pedal , start to release the clutch slowly.. the car should stall immediately when the clutch plate catches ..if it’s catching and moving the car forward it’s wearing out and slipping
DVJFan you got nae nae’d
Last time i watched ETCG he had 20K subs. Congrats man!
EricTheCarGuy Can someone help please, because i'm really worried. My engine was off and i did not have my foot on the clutch but still shift into my gears smoothly. Is this normal??
+lucky kaur Yeah, thats likely ok buddy! Sometimes if all lines up inside the gearbox just right you can do that! I wouldn't be concerned!
Ok you so much! :)
👍I have a 2005 Mini Cooper R52 and when I press(engage) the clutch with the engine on I feel a slight grinding and a slight noise, the gears go in real well as I drive or stationary, do in wondering if my clutch is adjustable or needs grease or what? I’d appreciate it. Ralph!
best test, dump the clutch from 4k rpms in first, if the tires don't spin your clutch is bad.
Hi great video...I have a 2018 Kia Forte...bought the car breand new...never gave me problems 3 days ago it started acting like the battery needs charge..I check the charge with multimeter it reads 12.70v...it seems good charge...when I try and start the car it sounds like the battery is low on charge...but when I press down the clutch super hard it starts right up...do you think its needs a clutch..adjustment???
could a slipping clutch feel like a misfire?
I'm wondering this cause the garage who have my car is saying the hesitation in my mini is caused by the clutch but it doesn't slip, car stalls if in gear and you just let the clutch out. My problem feels more like fuel starvation
@@electronJarvs you could check your issue with a wideband or front 02 and see if it goes lean, that would indicate fuel starvation.
For me I posted 3 years ago and it turned out to be most likely a bent rod or broken piston ring. eventually the block got a hole in it. it didnt throw a rod I think it was fuel/air that escaped out of the combustion chamber and into the crank case
@@electronJarvsi have a mini also with a clutch that is slipping ever so slightly. i was going to reply but seeing as how the thread is years old im sure you got it sorted out by now
@@CRT4Dummies yea, got a cheap laptop and installed ista....fuckrrs tried ripping me off turned out to be just a coil pack. Cost £20 to fix instead of the £400 plus they wanted. Was German autocentre in Sheffield
Thank you so much. I am starting to drive manual transmission now and this video basically helped me to self inspect my transmission's clutch. Thanks :)
What does it mean if it shudders in first gear and not any other gear
Like while you're setting off? Give it more gas.
Did you find out? I have the same problem but it's in first and 2nd gear only.
Did you? I have 1st and 2nd aswell
Jin- No. It seems like it stopped doing that. I don't really know what to say.
If it shudders in first gear, maybe try actually using the accelerate pedal
hi eric great video I have a thumping noise when i change gear reverse and forward ? Now here is the weird thing? mounts ok it seem thumping coming from drivers side that uk car-right side noise wheel suspension not sure?
I have no pressure on my clutch. I can't select gears when the car is on. My car has a cable clutch.
Cable clutches don't have hydraulic lines, fluid, master or slave cylinders.
Eric, I have a 2007 Corolla, I replaced the Clutch Disc,, pressure plate and release bearing on it about 3 months ago. I also resurface the flywheel as well. Well coming down a hill, i started hearing clicking noise from the transmission and now it wont go into reverse but it will go into all other CV shaft but i cant understand where the screaming noise when i am in regular gears. I need your advice please
Thanks
4:12
4:16
i wish it took this long to remove a transmission ;)
Got here too late but thanks much, this is exactly what my car is doing
so ur saying that i might be needing a new clutch becuase when im in third gear i can floor it and the power goes by its self?????????
+Lizandro Ortix No if you try to take off from 3rd gear and it doesnt grab super great and the rpms stay high when you let the clutch then its probably slipping
My 96 dodge one ton hard to push in clutch wont start unles cluch is down wats my problem
Leon Branum Sounds like your ignition system has a clutch lockout. Just means you have to push in the clutch pedal every time you start your truck.
Leon Branum your legs are weak.
Quick diagnosis. Have you ever replaced the clutch fluid, the fluid filter or adjusted the pedal in any way?
Goddamnit! I purchased a 2008 Mazda 3 hatchback with 69,000 miles 2 years ago as a 3rd hand owner. The 1st owner was allegedly a woman and now at 77,000 miles i'm feeling it slip pretty badly in 4th and 5th gear.
Many many thanks to this interesting and fruitful video. I would like to ask sir, would a bad clutch do affect the engine's power specially in the 3rd gear or above ? I have a '98 Toyota Tercel, the power decrease when i reached on the 3rd gear, 4th and 5th gear., These happened specially when A/C is ON and when the road inclined, the power decrease even without A/C. Do I need to replace my clutch?. Thanks for your advise people.
Problem with that one is that it was a Ford.
Ben thank you
Hahaha
Ben yeah not a Honda
I love ford's but even I have to say that their clutch system is usually poorly engineered. If you don't bleed them 60 to 100k miles than you will roast your clutch.
Nothing's wrong with it. If it was an automatic, then I understand you
If i'm not wrong, those are DSG gearboxes.wich have two clutches. DSG gearboxes are actually two separate manual gearboxes in the same housing, working together. By using two independent clutches a DSG gearbox have very short shift times and having dual clutches eliminates the need for a torque converter.
So yeah, it's a different kind of automatic.
And another way to diagnose a bad flywheel is to drive 1000 kilometers and let it blow out of your engine
you're both right. The torque converter is driven by the engine, and its output drives the planetary gears. The clutches and bands are used to stop certain parts of those planetary gears while letting others move, in a way that provides only one pathway for the engine's torque to be transferred to the drive wheels. If all the clutches and bands are disengaged, the transmission acts as if it was a manual transmission in Neutral.
Well fuck my Subaru
I am having no problems like you described with my clutch. My problems are that it won't even go into gear. It seems to be stuck in neutral and the stick just moves freely. The pedal feels fine and there is no noise. It's at the shop and they won't get back to me till tomorrow. Any ideas what it could be?
Eric, 2006 Subaru Impreza, got a new clutch, now I can't drive it very well, release of the pedal is really high, will not grab until the clutch pedal is all the way out. Makes it really hard to get started from a dead start. I supposedly had a bad throw-out bearing. I had whining and screaming when it was colder outside. If it was warm outside, no noise. Clutch would grab as you started to release the clutch. Now I can't get it to grab until it is completely release. I have to learn how to drive it again. Cynthia
I found some techniques on the web that involve worming the engine and then slammin' the clutch pedal or stuff like that, but I really want to hear your opinion before I go do that on my little van.
Thank you very much in advance. I would really appreciate the help. I don't really want to take the van apart at the moment, I'm trying to get it to run as soon as possible.
Best wishes from Bucharest!
i have been having an issue with my car. in lower gears i wasnt getting much traction. i didnt know if it was the clutch or the tires. being winter, it was more likely the tires. but hearing the advice of eric, i can pretty much verify my suspicions that its just tire spin.
you need to be a bit smoother then and stop wheel-spinning :P
on polished ice, not much you can do. wheels will spin. ^_^
I felt that too but its dry so it cant be the tires so its the clutch , im going in the freeway 60mph on 5th gear and i press the gas and it wosent give power to move
ya, 5th gear i dont have much power per say, but it does go to the ground. so i am lucky that the clutch on my 3rd had jetta seems to be in good shape. you sir, may not be so lucky. i would get that checked out before you get stranded.
i used to drive a vr4, but the clutch went on that. do you have any idea how embarassing it is to be towed when your car looks fine? ppl look at you like you blew up your engine.
jose lopez to be fair, 5th or 6th (if ya got one of dem fancy 6 speeds) should really only be used as a gas saver gear. Just like over drive on an auto. I only use 5th if I'm traveling a steady speed. It's actually less fuel efficient to use 5th or 6th and try to accelerate under 2k rpms
Have a NV3500 making a sound as you release the clutch like there are rocks loose spinning in the bell housing/gear box(hard to decipher). Just hoping with all of your work you may know of what could make that sound. Only happens as I am releasing clutch, not when pedal's up idling or is fully released and in gear. In other words, only makes noise (like rocks tossing about) when the clutch is early to mid throw, once gear is selected, no noise.
I believe you were on the right track shutting him down for his rolling comment, however automatics do have clutches and lots of them.
eric if you lived in my area id have you fix my cars. you seem very knowledgeable
I got a 1998 Honda Accord 5speed. You can push the clutch pedal in and it works but the shifter won’t go in any gear real hard to move it either sticks in first or reverse and sometimes you can get it to neutral and most time it grinds and stalls.
I replaced mine unnecessarily when I was in my 20s ( UK Ford Escort ) because I drove home from a party with a horrendous hangover and was driving so badly I convinced myself the clutch was bad. A dumb ass mate of mine who had changed the clutch in a rear wheel drive Cortina assured me it was easy. He abandoned me on night 1 and it took me two weeks and many tool purchases to get the job done. When I pulled out the original clutch plate it looked as good as new. Tricky job on a FWD vehicle.
to add on to my question below, it only made bad sounds while the clutch pedal was pressed, im thinking it could have been one of the springs that got loose? bearing sound ok, and there is no sound now, but its shaking really bad when starting in 1st, could it be that the flywheel was damaged?
I've got a pos 96 civic dx. My question is. With the clutch fully engaged and you give it throttle what causes the car to "lurch" or "jerk"??
Thanks for the very helpful infos. What if the pedal is very stiff? mine is hydraulic type clutch on a 2.8li diesel engine..Does it have something to do with the clutch? i dont see any problem on both master and slave cyl, no unusual sticking nose too..tia
hydraulic clutches are adjustable its the rod that connects the mastercylinder to the pedal its a locking nut you loosen then you can adjust the pedal height by turning the rod
Whenever I has a clutch go bad, it was due to weak or broken fingers on the pressure plate. The result was clutch drag. I've never had a clutch slip. My Jeep has a hydraulic clutch; the '78 Gremlin I once had had a clutch cable and my '69 AMX has a good old mechanical linkage.
Dude so I don’t know if it’s my clutch or my trans but I can definitely put my s10 in gear and it just doesn’t do anything at all and it actually will go into all of the gears but no movement at all and from what you said in this video I feel like it’s my clutch
GRACIAS POR LOS VIDEOS ERICK SON UNOS VIDEOS MUY PROFECIONALES Y Y MUY BUENOS...THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS, ARE VERY PROFESSIONAL VIDEOS AND GOOD VIDEOS FOR ME... ERICK.. GOD BLESS YOU
this is happening to my 2007 focus and just wondering if you could let me know what all you changed to get it to run again ? And does this happen because the clutch was worn out?