These Climbing Fails are just WRONG!
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- We are back baby! Had a whole lot of submissions I had to get to on this one. I hope you enjoyed it, and as always hope you learned something as well. Its definitely easier then learning the hard way. If you have any clips feel free to reach out. Or join our community on discord, all the links are here, hope to here from you. No go out there and don't fail!
Credit to: @MisterClimber for your hammock and the nasty slab grounder!
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f***Ing crazy how most of these accidents are preventable with an helmet.... most of the time the argument is I look so stupid with my helmet. Bet the last one feels more stupid with no hair than with an helmet
I was just getting ready to talk about the helmet I use. The. I realized it’s in my profile pic. If you feel uncool with your helmet, wear clothes to match :)
5:20 "I'm going to have to make a shirt that's something about a foot behind a rope."
Foot behind the rope - be prepared to kiss the slope.
“If you die, more bones for me.” - Crag Dog
My opinion of dogs has forever changed lol. Another successful climbing fail video. Thanks!
Cats eat your face, dogs eat your bones 😂
Oh the joys of pet ownership
Agree, 5:07!
I think you should be selling helmets at your merch store ;)
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Or at least helmet stickers
Heck yes!!! I'd buy both the sticker and helmet!
"If you die, more bones for me!!" I lost it at that line, man.
Nice video man. I'd say the main issue with the auto belay fail was bad route setting. I work a small wall, and we stop the route at least 1-2 feet below the auto belay, this would have prevented her from climbing up next to the anchor.
I'm noticing on many of these belay fails, is not only too much slack. Also an important factor, is generally too much rope in the system. Position under the climber is important. If you stand closer to the wall, especially in the early parts of a wall, there will also be much less rope in the system, reducing the distance of the fall...
6:13 Get wrecked, kid! That got a laugh out of me (since nobody was hurt). Seems like her harness could have been adjusted better since she had trouble getting upright after falling.
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That was my kiddo. She’s a trooper. 😂😂😂
I think the route setting needs adjusting. The large hold at the top allows climbers to climb too high, introducing slack into the system and interferes with the device.
Another point on the slack fail at 8:00. He was walking in towards her while she was that low. It seemed like a difficult spot since the first bolt is low and the next clip she was trying to get on was pretty far even when she was reaching high to get it. But the belayer really shouldn't be moving around that much and adjusting slack in the system that much at that point. Priority at that point is keeping as much slack out of the system as possible. Give slack as needed when clipping and don't pull extra out then readjust, which is exactly what it seems like he did. Sure, it could result in a bit of shortroping but at that point of the climb, that doesn't matter as much. Also, his brake was horrendous.
Best advice: find a spot to catch, keep as much slack out as possible and give slack during the clip as NEEDED, and be ready to become a double pendulum around a pulley at any point until they are high enough to safely catch. Better to clang into each other a bit than deck your climber. This also means to keep aware of which direction, around the last quickdraw they clipped in, they will swing and which way you will swing as well.
The intro song always makes me laugh. I want another verse.
bro that harmony restores my faith in humanity. and her voice at the end good lord like good lord
"if you die, more bones for me" 😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the cool video. Here are a few coments on some clips:
1:55 It also seems like the weight difference was too big. Use an Edelrid Ohm or clip the rope to the first quickdraw of the route next to the one you actually want to climb.
Also, wear shoes when belaying. Otherwise you will smash your toes one day.
5:08 Nothing about them not wearing a helmet with this one?
6:06 In any fall, push yourself away from the wall. (Her foot got stuck behind a hold.)
7:30 Again, light belayer, heavy climber and almost no friction for the rope. I don't think that there was too much slack (but we can't see it on the video). He jumped, fell and pulled her up.
8:04 Uff, the breakhand position. Assisted belay device saves the day. With a tuber style device and the breaking hand that far up there would have been an other picture of rope burns on the hand and an unbreaked ground fall. Are there any devices where you should have the breaking hand that far up? (I only know the munter hitch)
Also, stand directly under the bolt to reduce slack as much as possible while the climber is low on the route.
Let me know if you agree.
Yes thought he was doing the earlier holding wrong side of rope & hand burn also flailing with spare rope hand and too far left due to slope. Helmet/shoes is a must !
8:04 He also walked forwards instead of backwards, thereby giving MORE slack. Absolutely atrocious belay. Nearly punched his climber by keeping his hand so egregiously out of the break position
It also looks like he skipped a clip right in front of him at 7:30. Hard to tell though.
Don't jump off when lead climbing, you'll break your ankles one day
I've been wondering if I was being an ahole when I gave the advice of not climbing with untied hair to an unknown fellow climber at the gym, but not anymore after watching that last clip.
It is one of the first advice that my friends gave me, and I'm gonna keep on giving it to others :)
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It’s good advice.
Friend of mine, a metal head with long hair had that happen before too. Doesn't sound pleasent.
Ived had a little accident with my hair and a stop gear for rappel. Luckily i was near a balcony of a building so i was able to hang on it and open the stop. No hair pulled but now i have 3 mm over my entire head. Nice videos. There are good to learn from others and not by self experience👍
That was like a helmet infomercial 😂 absolutely awesome
Ha!!! Perfect man. Thanks for putting the clip in!!! Get wrekt kid!!! 😂😂😂
"Get Rekt Kid" lol classic
I was rollin'😂
That intro song was beautiful. Instant subscription
You made my entire day!
I just don't get it, why are so many climbers without a helmet? What in falling repeatedly against a rock face doesn't tell them they need a helmet?
Thankfully at my crag people will remind you to the degree that newbies even comes in their bisycle helmets, and with good reasons as our crag have had a couple of nasty accidents
I usually use them if there's a lot of potential for rocks and shit falling down.
But I'd prefer not putting my feet behind the rope at all, to avoid those headsmashes entirely
I used to work at a retail store where we sold climbing gear. When people would come in to get gear, they wouldn’t buy (some of them) helmets because it added extra cost (buying quickdraws, slings and a rope is costly enough), some of them didn’t think they needed it. But, the most frustrating thing, some people didn’t KNOW at ALL what gear they needed to climb outside. Didn’t care to take a course or even watch youtube videos. Some people don’t care to properly educate themselves and learn to assess risks. Some people, at least where I live (in Quebec, Canada), think climbing outside is like climbing in a gym, that someone else is responsible for your safety and that it’s safe. It pisses me off because when accidents happen, it’s detrimental to the whole climbing community.
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@@xtianeroc Now when you say it people don't climb with helmets inside either, and probably that's why people don't learn proper risk assignment from the beginning...
@@JohanMood well yeah, and there’s always someone else that’s responsible for you in the gym, so it doesn’t encourage individuals to take responsability for themselves. In my area, there’s a lack of education for the transition to outdoors. 🤷♀️
The man bun gives you epic powers it is stronger than a helmet
6:13 Get wrecked, kid! I am pretty sure there was slack on the auto-belay at the top (the last few feet are not reeled in), then the slack in the auto-belay gets under the left leg buckle of the harness. Then she falls and it simply flips her upside down and that untangles the webbing from under the buckle.
Great episode as usual. 🤫
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“More bones for me”was hilarious
Needs to be on a shirt!
First of these I have seen. Great video
there was a death at a climbing gym in my city.. from an autobelay. word is, the gym did not properly maintain the auto belay.. sad sad sad.. also the gym is very negligent
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Thank you, man! 👍
The second last clip looks like that first bolt is really low. There was almost no slack in the system and she still hit the ground, well backpack.
Love the opening song/jingle, please pass that along to the creator 👍👍
Dude in the second clip should not be trying to catch the climber, and falling on top of someone sucks. Instead of standing on the pad and under the climber, he should have moved the pad to be more squarely under his climber and be a step or two back to ensure he can guide her onto the pad but stay clear of the fall. They could've both easily ended up badly injured.
Woo , posted 2secs ago?!. What a treat!!!
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Many years ago, we came across a couple who were rappelling off an overhang and the girls hair had sucked into the figure 8 about 100 ft off the ground. Me and a friend quickly set up and went over the edge and we’re able to rescue her. We for sure thought we were cutting her hair but we were able to get her free without cutting it.
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Excellent video!
Thanks!
At 8:05, I guess the belay device used is grigri (or other assistent belay device)? Since his hand is way above the device taking in slack during the fall.
Using an atc, the rope would just slide right through the device with this break hand position.
Are there any good ways of taking slack during air time, (like the guy in the video using (?)grigri(?) ) when belaying with an atc?
Where did the "Dumby Dum" song video go? I tried to bookmark it. I miss that one!
Foot behind the rope , that’s a definite nope
I once had my hair start feeding through my atc during a rappel. It sucked
Once I was auto-belaying at the gym ,my foot got caught in a top rope and I got flipped upside down about ~2ish feet above the ground. Just kind of dangled there for a second until I wiggled my way out. Was fine but felt like an idiot.
A climber recently died on Auto belay in Sydney. Rumour has it the strap broke..
ATGATT! Helmet!
I’m glad they didn’t have phone cameras around when I started out, I did a lot of dumb stuff.
At 8:15 we learn that sometimes it's better to be wearing a cup than a helmet! 😲
iirc the guy who took the mega slab fall deck in first person is the same guy who hung up his hammock with the cam lol
got some hair stuck in my petzl ID at work, it ended up being a few strands I could pull out without much damage but it sure was spooky!
This was a good one. The first episode I think it was on tictok.
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the guy that up the hammock is the same guy that fell on the slab gopro video.
With that last video here are the sins my one friend pointed out:
1. She had no backup system
2. Her carabiner was unlocked
3. No helmet
4. Hair not tied up properly
At this point I’m wondering if whoever put her in this situation wanted her hurt.
She's canyoneering. It's a whole different world... Canyon people do some stuff I would consider completely sketch ass if it were on a wall.
If anything that guy did pretty good taking in all that slack.
I need to know who did the intro song
Common practice when I was climbing in the 70's and 80's was for the belayer to be anchored. That does not appear to be the trend anymore. I was wondering if you would do a video and explain why that is no longer case. I'm thinking maybe because it extends the life of the rope or that it makes the fall less hard on the climber. But isn't that why we use dynamic rope? And if it causes the climber to fall farther isn't every foot more exposing them to more random possibilities of injury? Including hitting the ground. Especially if an anchor fails, there is less room for error. So please if you would, explain why it is now more preferable to not have the belayer anchored while belaying. And thank you for your videos. Sometimes the best way to learn is to learn how not to. (Nice T-shirt slogan?)
I think the emphasis has been placed on the “soft catch” mentality. There also could be situations where anchoring the belayer could be dangerous. If the belayer needs to move to take up slack or dodge a falling object, being anchored could cause a problem.
@jchristanell Thanks for the reply. I thought that might have something to do with it. Everyone will have to decide for themselves but I believe it is a controversy worthy of discussion. I would be interested to know if this practice of not anchoring is used on a multi pitch climb or a hanging belay? I'm older now and not climbing but it still stays in the blood.
Joshua, your first climbing duo and their loose belay @ 2:22 , does the man have a prosthetic leg and foot? Kudos to him and his climbing skills, I just hope that they learned from their mistake.
Badass. But to be fair, if he had a prosthetic leg and a live foot that would be pretty weird
was looking for someone else that noticed this. didn't think it'd be possible to do sports climbing with a prosthetic leg.
A couple of those falls were spectacular but not dangerous. Pulling your belayer off the ground isn’t bad per say so long as that break hand stays on the rope. Once the belayer begins to be lifted the catch is in progress and the movement is softening the fall.
As far as I can tell the problem with the penultimate one isn’t with the climbers it is with whoever equipped the route and left too big a gap between the first two bolts.
As for the last, where the f*** was the prussic loop back up? That is what allows you to solve such problems.
@9:31 omg !!! In skrillex voice
Belay devices and drill bits don’t care about your hair. My brother is a stone mason. Once on a job he witnessed a long haired guy rip off half his hair and scalp as it wound around a long drill bit. Bloody mess. He ignored the warnings. That girl was lucky she lost only a small patch of hair.
Did witness such an belaying accident myself once. Very small gym and she was lucky we were around to help her out. No scalping back then.
rip. one of the clips was my home gym. sad times
Got my beard caught once
Anyone else notice the one legged climber?
Any thoughts on why many people don't wear helmets these days? When I was climbing in the 80's-90's, you never saw anyone without a helmet? Any ideas? People too complacent with bolts and not worrying about falling far? I just don't know.
Don't be a dope, watch your rope !
(fall safe)
Sandpaper water slide 😂
Helmet > manbun
New Sub here, realy like the "use a helmet" show. Besides rockfall all hazards seem to also apply to indoor climbing. Should we see helmets in the gym more often?
Good question, I ask myself that some times. I think with propers technique and not having the rope behind your leg would prevent most accidents and a need for a helmet indoors. Indoor climbs don’t usually wonder around like some dangerous outdoor climbs and have bolts properly distanced. I wouldn’t hate on anyone that wears a helmet inside and in fact one of my episodes a guy does hit his head indoor and had a helmet on so. In the end the decision on what risk to take is the climbers.
Man I loooove the tune in the intro... on the topic at 4:15 what are your thoughts on belaying with GLOVES ??
Essential if your using an 8 not so much with a grigri. So it all depends. If I was belaying for days on end I’d wear them. Like a big wall
@@BetaClimbers understood... so... good to practice whith em....! keep rocking Josh (see what I did there?)
@@federicoezequielmackin 😂
What does he mean when says "chalk is not aid"?
I think helmets are better than man buns as well 🤣
7:50 I felt like the slack was alright, but then he pulled her up quite a bit which is why he hit her.
Do a coiled rope with snake fangs and just do the don't tread on me flag but don't tread behind me
To the guy in 4:45. "Thank God for the ground, You can always count on it to catch your fall, if all else fails".
@7:40. Too much slack and usually when they meet like that isn’t the first and second pro a bit further apart than it should be?
Yay, for being the first viewer and first commenter. Your a legend.
The clip at 1:53 wasn't really a fail. I was at the gym when it happened, the fall was completely planned and the extremely lose belay was intentional. Although it wasn't the safest whip, the belayer was in control the whole time. It was reposted to some Instagram pages a couple months after it got filmed which is probably how it ended up here.
I cannot tell if this is true, but it really, really did look like a (bit risky) fall training to me.
Is that TRC Morrisville? Looks like right next to the lead wall.
@@BillyGrayNC Yes its TRC Morrisville
@@chaosengine4597 It was intentional. I'm pretty sure it wasn't actually fall training, it was just for a bit of fun.
Helmet doesn't help with the hair stuck in the belay device problem, had the same accident last week with helmet.
Yeah I guess if you don’t tied the hair up into the helmet you can get pretty stuck good point lol
No helmets - more bones for dogs 🤭✌
7:30 it looks like the climber didn't clip a bolt resulting in the large whip.
I dropped a comment about this a few months ago, but wanted to reiterate:
If you have any insight, please please please do a video about autobelays. At this point, I feel like I've done a ton of research, but still can't get a clear answer on why some seasoned climbers seem generally suspicious of them. From what I can tell, 99% of the accidents are user error, but I can't for the life of me get an answer regarding what explains that last 1%.
Climbers need to inspect their gear that they depend their life on. One of my rules is trust no one to do anything. You are solely responsible for your safety. I have seen a lot of accident that went something like this “oh I thought he did it” you can’t assume with this kind of stuff. Now as far as auto belays you have to assume they are properly maintained. So you better put a lot of trust in your local gym. That being said I use them often, I climb maybe ten feet up and jump off to assure thing are functioning well. There has been a resent death in Sydney for example and people think it may be improper maintenance we will have to see.
@@BetaClimbers this is helpful, thanks. Luckily my local gym seems to be pretty on top of it. They seem really scrupulous about getting maintenance done on the autobelays, even if that means only a 2-3 of the normal 7 devices being available for a few weeks. I think they send them off somewhere to have them looked at.
@@jakebardin834 right on sorry for the rant lol 🤙🏻
Details matter or the lack of attention to them.
smack smack smack
That biner is not locked on the last video (girl with hair stuck)
Alguien se dio cuenta, 9:13, que la Niña rubia del cabello en el ocho tenia el mosquetón con el seguro sin cerrar. 😬
Hey, I’ve seen you repeatedly talk about taking in slack when people are falling on lead, which obviously you really only want to do when they’re low to the ground. I feel like this is an important point to make for people that are just starting to dip their toes in the lead waters and I haven’t seen you talk about the importance of a soft catch.
The most important thing for generating forces is not falling distance, but stopping distance. A short fall with a sudden stop is gonna be worse than a big fall with a nice soft catch. Obviously, I’m sure you’re aware of this, but I think it’s important to clarify
The less slack= the less force is not really true. A longer fall dissipates more energy. I mean the one in the gym could have been better if she took out some of it, but that's more because of their weight difference. If they were the same weight it would have been fine
That’s only if the long fall is because the belayer is slowing your fall.
I like your videos better now. Your comments are way more constructive 🙂
The one at 2:00 is my local gym 😎
You mentioned auto belay accidents. Did you hear what happened in Sydney?
Yeah I did, last I heard it’s still under investigation
What happened in Sydney?
@@BetaClimbers good to know. I spoke to the staff on Saturday. They indicated a fault and said the gym will put out a statement.
@@ralfrussel1950 I think if you do a search might be best. It’s under investigation so no definite answer. Only want to inform others so we each can make our own decisions.
@@stephendoggett4397 he asked „what happened“, not „why did it happen“ or „who is responsible that something happened“.
It's as if helmet is a dirty word.
7:30 he missed a clip by his waist
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6:50 wouldn't wearing a helmet damage or dent the rock?
I'd think that if the rock is so shitty that an impact from a climbing helmet could damage it, you shouldn't be climbing on it in the first place.
@@AyahuascaSage this. I sometines wonder where people climb, crumbly sandstone? You shouldn't be climbing there anyways haha
@@AyahuascaSage 😜🤪🤣😜🤪🤣
If a helmet is gonna damage the rock I think your skull is probably gonna leave a dent too
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The person that sent the letter should neither be belaying or typing. You have to lack common sense to grab the non braking side of rope! Haha! Glad they’re still alive, though!
The dramatic meltdown over hair was easily the best
Hey Josh, side note, have you watched The Alpinist yet?
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Don’t think I have I’ll Check it out 🤙🏻
@@BetaClimbers you would definitely know if you have. It may still be in theatres in the US. It is about an alpine free solo guy named Marc Andre Leclerc. He started climbing as a kid in my local gym in Abbotsford Canada. It's an incredible documentary.
All them ignorant beginners.. as if it’s only bout coolness
spoilers: wear your helmet folks
m ui
8:40 : first clip very low and climber too much to the right, belayer has no choice to stand on the left.
really great climbing "heroes" never wear helmets...?!
Gri-Gris are dangerous and teach bad belaying habits. But great for hard wall routes.
It’s typically considered polite to ask permission to use someone’s video(s) or to at least give credit.
All videos are submitted 🤙🏻
@@BetaClimbers that’s dope, I never submitted my two videos you used. Would it have taken longer then replying to the comment to shoot a message or, idk, tag the accounts you would’ve pulled the videos from?
@@MisterClimber if you are the original owner I can tag you in the description. I get 100s of videos sent to me I never know if they are truly the owner or not. Just let me know which ones are yours and stop failing so much lol jk 🤣
@@BetaClimbers due diligence is something I learned after decking from 30 feet.
And the hammock was placed over 6 feet up, pleb hikers got a decent laugh off of it.
@@MisterClimber lmao kk I’ll add that in
Get your weight off the device or go bald 😂😂😂
Your advice that belayers should always take in all the slack prior to a climber falling is completely wrong. On steep or overhanging terrain having a bit of slack can prevent a serious pendulum into the rock. Learn to climb before you start handing out advice is my advice to you.
that intro song is cringe. I need to find a new hobby.
Nothing tastier then Some cringe mmmm mmm
Tis Halloween after all 🥧👻
Couldn't find a pumpkin so here's a pumpkin pie instead.
Like the song actually nice voice too.