Thank you so much for this video. Because you showed „it is possible“ i tried it. It was kind if a mess getting the box out and loosen the cables. But because i knew, you did it - i continued and i was successfull this evening. Tomorrow i will put everything back where it belongs to and then i will cross my fingers. Thank you for posting this video!
Kind of…;-) - after putting all together and doing the brake-in process it worked like brand new for about 3 month now. But there is a but…. A few days ago there was the screaming sound again when turning on the hand brake. I stopped using it so far. I have had no time since then for to unmount the right brake to check why the noise is back again.
You can also do this without removing the module or wheels. Lie on back with feet out back of the car, you can then just about get you arms above the front on the diff and remove the front cover of the epb in situ. You can then get your screwdriver up to unwind the brass bolt. Saves also of time and effort, I've done this on 2 cars now.
Just a handy hint if you are electricly minded, Once I unjammed the mech I attached external power to the motor to wind it back and latch it. This trick saved me a lot of swearing and only took seconds. just put an on off switch and a reversing switch between the motor and the battery and you have a very useful tool.
Hi i have a probpem where i lado replaced my rear driver hub assemled everything back now screeching noises got out the module rewound the splined bolt all the watly back in then operated the brake button and unwinds again all the way out and when full out screeches again red parking balrake flashing.. was working fine before hub changed
I believe this just happened to one of our LR3s. Changing the rear right bearing and I did not get the EPB cable locked into the pad lock notch properly. When I went to embed, cable retracted and is now stuck retracted. I cannot get it to release enough length of cable to reattach to the lock notch. Does this sound similar to your issue? Do you think your solution would apply to my problem. Any further tips? I saw one video where the actuator was left mounted under the car and it's guts accessible. Thanks!
Yes you might be able to wind it in the other direction manually but have you first tried doing a manual release from the cable inside the cabin and then reapplying the EPB? If that doesn't work you will have to open the module. It very restricted access, opening in situ requires small hands/arms and the ability to see around corners!
@@notamechanic8357 I have pulled the manual release with discernible or audible effect. But I have not reapplied EPB. I’ve used the IIDTool “unjam” function to no effect. Right hand cable still fully retracted. Will try manual pull and EPB apply. I’m clearly already down the rabbit hole on this one.
@@notamechanic8357 Found this note on forum. Might work to release cable. "Service mode (or as it's called in the IID Tool, Mounting mode) is only able to be triggered through a diagnostic tool. I wasn't ever able to get it to work via button press sequences. In the IID Tool, for the LR3, you actually have to go into the I/O menu, not the Service menu, and change the status there from Latching to Mounting. It's not fully clear and it's a bit of an odd quirk with only the L319." I/O control theoretically should allow for cable release.
Diag tools have various phrases for the operation, I use a rather inexpensive iCarsoft CR Pro - this does most of what I need. It has functions for releasing/reapplying/tensioning/unjamming/calibration (depending on vehicle model) none of which helped here, the only solution was to open the EPB module and do it manually.
New one fitted by a "mechanic" but then nothing worked ..he couldnt get the plug out so cut the wires ....hazards on with ignition ,no start and no coms with diagnostic equipment ...by passing the hand brake unit by connecting the can bus wires together sorts all the issues but the hand brake .,,,seems the new unit is f$*cked
Thank you so much for this video. Because you showed „it is possible“ i tried it. It was kind if a mess getting the box out and loosen the cables. But because i knew, you did it - i continued and i was successfull this evening.
Tomorrow i will put everything back where it belongs to and then i will cross my fingers.
Thank you for posting this video!
Hey @waldfritz ! Were you sucessfull?
Kind of…;-) - after putting all together and doing the brake-in process it worked like brand new for about 3 month now. But there is a but…. A few days ago there was the screaming sound again when turning on the hand brake. I stopped using it so far. I have had no time since then for to unmount the right brake to check why the noise is back again.
@@waldfritz1 Thanks for taking the time to reply. All the best with the brake issue!
absolute legend. Got quoted $3000 AUD to have it repaired. Saved me a kidney, thanks mate
I'm pleased you get to keep hold of your organs
You can also do this without removing the module or wheels.
Lie on back with feet out back of the car, you can then just about get you arms above the front on the diff and remove the front cover of the epb in situ. You can then get your screwdriver up to unwind the brass bolt.
Saves also of time and effort, I've done this on 2 cars now.
Just a handy hint if you are electricly minded, Once I unjammed the mech I attached external power to the motor to wind it back and latch it. This trick saved me a lot of swearing and only took seconds. just put an on off switch and a reversing switch between the motor and the battery and you have a very useful tool.
Thanks for the tip!
Hi i have a probpem where i lado replaced my rear driver hub assemled everything back now screeching noises got out the module rewound the splined bolt all the watly back in then operated the brake button and unwinds again all the way out and when full out screeches again red parking balrake flashing.. was working fine before hub changed
Great video, apart from sound, even with sound on my system turned up full, could not hear you full commentary!
Thanks for your feedback, not sure why that would be, I checked this on a variety of devices before publishing and it seemed fine.
I’m currently laid under the car feet out the back torch and t20 in hand, I hear him just fine…. Sadly my screws are weathered so unscrewable😢
Hi, I replaced the actuators but problem persist. Looks like my motor in the epb is burned/ damaged. Any ideas?
Unfortunately you will need a component level electronics engineer to be able to repair or replace the motor.
How do you release the handbrake
Pull the trim by the EPB lever/switch in the center console and pull up emergency release cable.
I believe this just happened to one of our LR3s. Changing the rear right bearing and I did not get the EPB cable locked into the pad lock notch properly. When I went to embed, cable retracted and is now stuck retracted. I cannot get it to release enough length of cable to reattach to the lock notch. Does this sound similar to your issue? Do you think your solution would apply to my problem. Any further tips? I saw one video where the actuator was left mounted under the car and it's guts accessible. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/lfgh46vyiWY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=mantaylor69
Yes you might be able to wind it in the other direction manually but have you first tried doing a manual release from the cable inside the cabin and then reapplying the EPB? If that doesn't work you will have to open the module. It very restricted access, opening in situ requires small hands/arms and the ability to see around corners!
@@notamechanic8357 I have pulled the manual release with discernible or audible effect. But I have not reapplied EPB. I’ve used the IIDTool “unjam” function to no effect. Right hand cable still fully retracted. Will try manual pull and EPB apply. I’m clearly already down the rabbit hole on this one.
@@notamechanic8357 Found this note on forum. Might work to release cable. "Service mode (or as it's called in the IID Tool, Mounting mode) is only able to be triggered through a diagnostic tool. I wasn't ever able to get it to work via button press sequences. In the IID Tool, for the LR3, you actually have to go into the I/O menu, not the Service menu, and change the status there from Latching to Mounting. It's not fully clear and it's a bit of an odd quirk with only the L319." I/O control theoretically should allow for cable release.
Diag tools have various phrases for the operation, I use a rather inexpensive iCarsoft CR Pro - this does most of what I need. It has functions for releasing/reapplying/tensioning/unjamming/calibration (depending on vehicle model) none of which helped here, the only solution was to open the EPB module and do it manually.
New one fitted by a "mechanic" but then nothing worked ..he couldnt get the plug out so cut the wires ....hazards on with ignition ,no start and no coms with diagnostic equipment ...by passing the hand brake unit by connecting the can bus wires together sorts all the issues but the hand brake .,,,seems the new unit is f$*cked