This jig will work for thin plane blades and long chisels with a very long shank,. The tool guide and slot are set back too far to toward the bottom to allow for many short handled chisels. Stanley standard and Japanese chisels are shorter and the blades are not able to get close enough to the wheel to be of any uses. The problem is they designed the stand this way as the track is set back near the bottom of the platform. I purchased a similar guide with a track that is much higher on the jig base and allows the moveable guide to grip my tools and reach the wheel of my grinder. It would be better if Veritas advertised this jig for use with chisels with long shanks.
Dear Justin, many thanks for that demo! One question for me is open: There are three ways to move the jig in the toolrest: (1) towards the grinder wheel (tool would be flat on front part of toolrest) and then there are some mm the bigger groove of the rest allows to move the slightly smaller jig forward, (2) left and right, (3) you can tilt towards or away from the grinder wheel. When you set the angle chisel vs. wheel you make (3)? I. e. you tilt the jig towards you when aligning to the wheel so you can exert pressure when the grinder runs? Hope I could make my point. Thanks in advance Christian
At 1:50, when he says “include angle finder” is he referring to it being included in the kit or the finder is set up to give you an exact included bevel angle of a particular degree for a tool with two bevels such as a skew used by a woodturner., which would be nice to have?
That's not quite how you use the angle setter. You want a spot half the thickness of the blade to touch the wheel. You can gauge the thickness using the lines in the angle finder.
Please email me at jimmypickett02@gmail.com about the way you setup for a chisel. The gauge is hard to tell where 1/2 distance really is. Jimmy Pickett
Me too. I have mostly Japanese chisels with curved shanks and the flat section of the tool when clamped into the guide is too far back to reach the wheel. Jeez.
Nice video. It covers just about all aspects of its use. Thanks for posting it, it helped me quite a bit though. It would have been nice if you included the grinding wheel diameter to feel more confident during the set-up. But I guess is 6" (?)
I have some inexpensive chisels and a small Stanley finish planer, all with short blade lengths, that don't touch both stops on the jig to keep it square (perpendicular to the wheel). Free hand isn't accurate. Does anyone have a work-around for those?
no solution will get you the accuracy you need with this jig. weld a piece of metal to the top, not bottom of bevel down blade, unweld, reflatten the top of the blade. oh what a mess. build a custom jig out of hardwood to fit your shorter blades
I have a 6" grinder. Had trouble with concave spots when I was setting primary bevel on old garage/flea market chisels. Ended up using 60 grit Emory flat on a stone to get it for honing. Way to much work.
Pipe down champ. The adjustable handle screws are worth that each. Unless you have the ability to produce them for anything near those numbers, go kick rocks.
Thank you, this was the only place that I could find the maximum capacity of the jig of 2 3/4 inches! I have some wide plane irons! Gr8 work btw.
Thank you for the detailed video.
Nice demonstration, thanks.
Hi, thanks a really good video and I might just get one.
Thank you for the demo.
This jig will work for thin plane blades and long chisels with a very long shank,. The tool guide and slot are set back too far to toward the bottom to allow for many short handled chisels. Stanley standard and Japanese chisels are shorter and the blades are not able to get close enough to the wheel to be of any uses. The problem is they designed the stand this way as the track is set back near the bottom of the platform. I purchased a similar guide with a track that is much higher on the jig base and allows the moveable guide to grip my tools and reach the wheel of my grinder. It would be better if Veritas advertised this jig for use with chisels with long shanks.
Nice! That guide fits on Viel sander table rest to also grind with a belt. Very useful. What about short shank tools?
Dear Justin, many thanks for that demo! One question for me is open: There are three ways to move the jig in the toolrest: (1) towards the grinder wheel (tool would be flat on front part of toolrest) and then there are some mm the bigger groove of the rest allows to move the slightly smaller jig forward, (2) left and right, (3) you can tilt towards or away from the grinder wheel. When you set the angle chisel vs. wheel you make (3)? I. e. you tilt the jig towards you when aligning to the wheel so you can exert pressure when the grinder runs? Hope I could make my point. Thanks in advance Christian
At 1:50, when he says “include angle finder” is he referring to it being included in the kit or the finder is set up to give you an exact included bevel angle of a particular degree for a tool with two bevels such as a skew used by a woodturner., which would be nice to have?
It is an included angle-setting gauge to set the table to the common bevel angles of 20, 25, 30 and 35 degrees.
That's not quite how you use the angle setter. You want a spot half the thickness of the blade to touch the wheel. You can gauge the thickness using the lines in the angle finder.
Please email me at jimmypickett02@gmail.com about the way you setup for a chisel. The gauge is hard to tell where 1/2 distance really is.
Jimmy Pickett
@@flosscap I came here because I had the same question, kinda frustrating that the instructions don’t cover it
Just got mine. Seems it doesn't pork well if the chisels are too short. I've got a 3" chisel and I've to figure it out.
Me too. I have mostly Japanese chisels with curved shanks and the flat section of the tool when clamped into the guide is too far back to reach the wheel. Jeez.
Nice video. It covers just about all aspects of its use.
Thanks for posting it, it helped me quite a bit though.
It would have been nice if you included the grinding wheel diameter to feel more confident during the set-up. But I guess is 6" (?)
thats an 8 inch grinder. Ihave the same one
Thanks very much Justin. Question; what is the distance you have set between the base of the grinder and the base of the jig?
The mounting holes for the tool rest should be approximately 2" from the front of the grinder base and directly in front of the wheel.
@@HighlandWoodworking Thank you much Justin
I have some inexpensive chisels and a small Stanley finish planer, all with short blade lengths, that don't touch both stops on the jig to keep it square (perpendicular to the wheel). Free hand isn't accurate. Does anyone have a work-around for those?
no solution will get you the accuracy you need with this jig. weld a piece of metal to the top, not bottom of bevel down blade, unweld, reflatten the top of the blade. oh what a mess.
build a custom jig out of hardwood to fit your shorter blades
I bought a peach tree jig that is designed to handle any chisel because the slot is near the top of the platform
I have a 6" grinder. Had trouble with concave spots when I was setting primary bevel on old garage/flea market chisels. Ended up using 60 grit Emory flat on a stone to get it for honing. Way to much work.
Now show us how to get the temper back in the corner of that chisel.
That's a bit of rust up on the corner. I had the same thought when I first saw it!
For what it is, it's not worth the money £3.00 with of material behave will you £15.00 and that's being generous
Pipe down champ.
The adjustable handle screws are worth that each.
Unless you have the ability to produce them for anything near those numbers, go kick rocks.