I have watched literally dozens if not hundreds of wood turning videos since I started turning about 10 years ago. For what this video is for, in my opinion is one of the best & informative I have ever seen. Most turners or people doing the video, just plain assume everyone knows the all the little basic important parts related. Ex, how to turn a pen using a mandrel. No info on how to attach & support the mandrel into a live center, Never showed the tail stock. Put one in your head stock and turn it on. This video explained all you need to know for a basic beginner and someone with experience who may have not turned or sharpened anything for some time and need a refresher. This pretty much covers everything. GREAT JOB.
Okay there are a few flaws in the video and some have made points worth mentioning. Overall very informative. Yes I questioned the wheel/stone, burning, tool overheating, probably the coarse stone and a little too much pressure for a couple seconds. It was mentioned, I think, let the wheel do the grinding, no real pressure needed. good job
@@rickfillion5666 I'd be afraid to use a stone on any of my turning tools, thats why I always use the sanding disk on the back of my shopsmith headstock. I probably sharpen tools more than most ppl tho cause I kinda just polish it up more often instead of actually sharpening them. But all and all this video was pretty good as far as me needing a refresher on the right angles and whatnot. I was actually thinking about getting a carbide gouge and try that out and see how I like it. All I've ever used is HSS and I hear that those carbide tools make it like cutting butter!!. Ive been turning on a mockernut hickory burl for almost 2 weeks solid. I seriously can't tell you how hard that shit is, absolutely beautiful inside, but hard as a rock and dulls tools in seconds I kid you not. Which is why I'm here now, figuring out different grinds and so on to maybe make it a little easier but so far its all about the same, it's just crazy hard wood but im about done with it now, just gotta do a few finishing touches and sand it up all nice and smooth and put a coating of whatever I decide on and ill be done with it. But hot damn that stuff is hard as a rock. Making pens out of it was fairly easy, but this bowl is whipping my ass lol
i have always had a problem shapening a bowl gouge,,,i never could get it to cut in the bowl like the pros do it,,,but after watching this video i am well pleased in my cuts,,,now im no weres near the pros,,but it improved my cuts 100 percent,,,,i urge everyone to watch this video,,,,,it helped me a great deal,,
The jig is the Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig and Vari-grind Attachment, available from Oneway Manufacturing or most woodworking suppliers including Woodcraft, Rockler, Lee Valley and most others world-wide. With regards to the tool overheating, the tool is high speed steel (HSS) and is unharmed by heat unlike carbon steel.
I was a hs tech ed teacher for 37 years. I do appreciate the good tips in relation to grinding gouge angles but I must comment on grinder safety. I don't know of any grinder that can be purchased without a wheel guard, safety glass shield, and tool rest. This machine looks like a buffer that was converted to a grinder. A grinding wheel can self destruct in many ways but the most dangerous situations occur when a section of the wheel is broken away. The wheel then becomes unbalanced and can totally fly apart at horrendous speed. A few ways a wheel section can be broken are, by a tool lodging between the rest and the wheel, someone may have inadvertently struck the wheel while passing by with a heavy object and created a crack, the wheel may have gone through a freeze/thaw cycle in storage causing a crack. A new wheel can be cracked. A good test is to suspend the wheel from a wire and tap with a metal tool. The wheel will "ring" if good, if cracked only a dull "thud" will sound. Always stand off to the side whenever starting a grinder. Over the years a number of my students that are out in industry would contact me and confirm the scenario as noted above, complete with photos of grinding wheel sections embedded in steel sheathing. Be careful when grinding. Grinders have a high level of industrial accidents in the machine tool environment. And, as was visible in this video, always wear eye protection.
I am very Confused. you free handed to remove excess metal , but then you used the resulting angle as the template for setting up the jig for final grinding. ???
You can't get high speed steel hot enough on typical grinding wheels for it to lose the temper, some thing like 1700F. No wheel guards on friable wheels, bad boy! Not bad for some one who is not a turner, but not good either...
Actually that color your seeing from grinding has zero effect on the tools hardness. A UA-cam creator by the name of James Kilroy did a great test some years ago showing a high speed steel metal lathe cutting tool bit heated to obvious red heat with a torch then testing it against another one that hadn't been heated. There was no change in tool life or performance. Yes a high carbon tool would be seriously harmed, but other than the very cheapest of off shore drills or taps and dies everything today is either high speed steel or an alloy with cobalt or better. It's an old wives tale about it's possible to overheat any of today's high speed steels on any well dressed and cool cutting grinding wheel. However I'm not fully convinced water cooling the heated tool tip is the best of ideas since thermal shock is proven to be bad for about any material I can think of. Even the tool steel experts can't seem to conclusively prove it's harmful or not. Cracking at a microscopic level seems likely to me but I'm just an amature. That thermal shock with any carbide is a really bad idea so.........................? Yes there far different materials but I still don't water cool and allow high speed steel tools to air cool.
@@turningpoint6643 me to, but I don't really grind grind my tool's as much as I sorta just polish the edge back on it more often than actually sharpening them. I also don't use a stone at all, I opt for the 12 inch sanding disk or the belt sander I have instead so it doesn't really get that hot to begin with. But yeah, I agree with what you said about heating hss, it'll take it and keep on cutting away lol.
I find this tutor somewhat presumptuous. I currently use no power sharpening system. The lower priced grinders I have seen in wood working catalogs dont have accessory tools built in. I am researching everything before buying any wood turning equipment. This video is not for newbies like myself
@@Galleitch I have always seen that when you discolor the edge like that, you remove the temper... Other than that, he is spot on. This is how they taught us to make machining bits for steel lathes back in trade school...
@@T3CHKN0W High Speed Steel (HSS) does not suffer loss of temper. Mild steel definitely does, but not HSS. Quality wood chisels are all HSS. Some cheap ones are only carbon steel. His are HSS.
Wrong grinder, you are destroying the temper of the tool steel (see the blue/yellow color). Get yourself a Tormek with water stone and sharpen without damaging your tools.
Amazing we got ourselves out of the stone age without Tormeks, really. Hint: if you get high speed steel hot enough to lose its temper, you will most likely be on fire.
if you're seeing refractory colors on steel, that means your drawing out a temper. Tempering reduces the hardness of the steel, and your edge won't last as long. I had this problem before I bought a low RPM grinder. Keep a bucket of water next to your grinder to dunk between grinds to ensure you keep it cool.
By far the best tutorial I’ve seen, for sharpening a bowl gouge. Simple and precise.
I have watched literally dozens if not hundreds of wood turning videos since I started turning about 10 years ago. For what this video is for, in my opinion is one of the best & informative I have ever seen. Most turners or people doing the video, just plain assume everyone knows the all the little basic important parts related. Ex, how to turn a pen using a mandrel. No info on how to attach & support the mandrel into a live center, Never showed the tail stock. Put one in your head stock and turn it on. This video explained all you need to know for a basic beginner and someone with experience who may have not turned or sharpened anything for some time and need a refresher. This pretty much covers everything. GREAT JOB.
Okay there are a few flaws in the video and some have made points worth mentioning. Overall very informative. Yes I questioned the wheel/stone, burning, tool overheating, probably the coarse stone and a little too much pressure for a couple seconds. It was mentioned, I think, let the wheel do the grinding, no real pressure needed. good job
@@rickfillion5666 I'd be afraid to use a stone on any of my turning tools, thats why I always use the sanding disk on the back of my shopsmith headstock. I probably sharpen tools more than most ppl tho cause I kinda just polish it up more often instead of actually sharpening them. But all and all this video was pretty good as far as me needing a refresher on the right angles and whatnot. I was actually thinking about getting a carbide gouge and try that out and see how I like it. All I've ever used is HSS and I hear that those carbide tools make it like cutting butter!!. Ive been turning on a mockernut hickory burl for almost 2 weeks solid. I seriously can't tell you how hard that shit is, absolutely beautiful inside, but hard as a rock and dulls tools in seconds I kid you not. Which is why I'm here now, figuring out different grinds and so on to maybe make it a little easier but so far its all about the same, it's just crazy hard wood but im about done with it now, just gotta do a few finishing touches and sand it up all nice and smooth and put a coating of whatever I decide on and ill be done with it. But hot damn that stuff is hard as a rock. Making pens out of it was fairly easy, but this bowl is whipping my ass lol
i have always had a problem shapening a bowl gouge,,,i never could get it to cut in the bowl like the pros do it,,,but after watching this video i am well pleased in my cuts,,,now im no weres near the pros,,but it improved my cuts 100 percent,,,,i urge everyone to watch this video,,,,,it helped me a great deal,,
Excellent video, clear video of the grinding, nothing distracting. Appreciate it.
Excellent tutorial, thank you for sharing!
great explanation. I go one step further and scribe a line on the slide bar. This way I know I have the bevel angle the same on all set ups.
The jig is the Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig and Vari-grind Attachment, available from Oneway Manufacturing or most woodworking suppliers including Woodcraft, Rockler, Lee Valley and most others world-wide. With regards to the tool overheating, the tool is high speed steel (HSS) and is unharmed by heat unlike carbon steel.
Thank you so much. 8m a newbie to turning. Very informative
I was a hs tech ed teacher for 37 years. I do appreciate the good tips in relation to grinding gouge angles but I must comment on grinder safety. I don't know of any grinder that can be purchased without a wheel guard, safety glass shield, and tool rest. This machine looks like a buffer that was converted to a grinder. A grinding wheel can self destruct in many ways but the most dangerous situations occur when a section of the wheel is broken away. The wheel then becomes unbalanced and can totally fly apart at horrendous speed. A few ways a wheel section can be broken are, by a tool lodging between the rest and the wheel, someone may have inadvertently struck the wheel while passing by with a heavy object and created a crack, the wheel may have gone through a freeze/thaw cycle in storage causing a crack. A new wheel can be cracked. A good test is to suspend the wheel from a wire and tap with a metal tool. The wheel will "ring" if good, if cracked only a dull "thud" will sound. Always stand off to the side whenever starting a grinder.
Over the years a number of my students that are out in industry would contact me and confirm the scenario as noted above, complete with photos of grinding wheel sections embedded in steel sheathing. Be careful when grinding. Grinders have a high level of industrial accidents in the machine tool environment. And, as was visible in this video, always wear eye protection.
Thanks for a great video!
How do you keep the tool from overheating? Where can the tool jig be purchase ? The video is a great training tool. Thank you.
Very nice and informative. Thank you.
Great video. What grinding stone is that
How do you know what the bevel angle is?
This is precisely what I was searching for. Thank you very much.
I am very Confused. you free handed to remove excess metal , but then you used the resulting angle as the template for setting up the jig for final grinding. ???
Is the V-Arm a separate piece of hardware from the grinder to purchase?
Big like!👍👍👍👍👍✅💪Felicitări! Great video 👍
I took it one step further and put pencil marks on pivot arm to quickly set it up.
You can't get high speed steel hot enough on typical grinding wheels for it to lose the temper, some thing like 1700F. No wheel guards on friable wheels, bad boy! Not bad for some one who is not a turner, but not good either...
Looks to me that the steel has overheated.
Actually that color your seeing from grinding has zero effect on the tools hardness. A UA-cam creator by the name of James Kilroy did a great test some years ago showing a high speed steel metal lathe cutting tool bit heated to obvious red heat with a torch then testing it against another one that hadn't been heated. There was no change in tool life or performance. Yes a high carbon tool would be seriously harmed, but other than the very cheapest of off shore drills or taps and dies everything today is either high speed steel or an alloy with cobalt or better. It's an old wives tale about it's possible to overheat any of today's high speed steels on any well dressed and cool cutting grinding wheel. However I'm not fully convinced water cooling the heated tool tip is the best of ideas since thermal shock is proven to be bad for about any material I can think of. Even the tool steel experts can't seem to conclusively prove it's harmful or not. Cracking at a microscopic level seems likely to me but I'm just an amature. That thermal shock with any carbide is a really bad idea so.........................? Yes there far different materials but I still don't water cool and allow high speed steel tools to air cool.
@@turningpoint6643 me to, but I don't really grind grind my tool's as much as I sorta just polish the edge back on it more often than actually sharpening them. I also don't use a stone at all, I opt for the 12 inch sanding disk or the belt sander I have instead so it doesn't really get that hot to begin with. But yeah, I agree with what you said about heating hss, it'll take it and keep on cutting away lol.
Finally
Looks like the edge is being overheated due to the grinder speed!
Postup je perfektní ale provedení je špatný, materiál je vyhřátý.
I find this tutor somewhat presumptuous. I currently use no power sharpening system. The lower priced grinders I have seen in wood working catalogs dont have accessory tools built in. I am researching everything before buying any wood turning equipment. This video is not for newbies like myself
Is it me, or did he burn the bejesus out of that gouge?
It's you.
@@Galleitch I have always seen that when you discolor the edge like that, you remove the temper... Other than that, he is spot on. This is how they taught us to make machining bits for steel lathes back in trade school...
@@T3CHKN0W High Speed Steel (HSS) does not suffer loss of temper. Mild steel definitely does, but not HSS. Quality wood chisels are all HSS. Some cheap ones are only carbon steel. His are HSS.
Not bad for a Millennial. Keep up the good work.
If your tool goes blue I’m pretty sure that’s a bad thing! 😨
I know, you are absolutely right...
Gee no guards 🙈
Wrong grinder, you are destroying the temper of the tool steel (see the blue/yellow color). Get yourself a Tormek with water stone and sharpen without damaging your tools.
Amazing we got ourselves out of the stone age without Tormeks, really. Hint: if you get high speed steel hot enough to lose its temper, you will most likely be on fire.
this blue color of the steel f.ckin' hurts me until the video....
River hunters
if you're seeing refractory colors on steel, that means your drawing out a temper. Tempering reduces the hardness of the steel, and your edge won't last as long. I had this problem before I bought a low RPM grinder. Keep a bucket of water next to your grinder to dunk between grinds to ensure you keep it cool.
You would have thought he knew better being this is from wood magazine.
@@ptudor63 , I don't think grinding HSS is as much a problem as if you were grinding on high carbon steel.
I go h