Got some real good waves there once, the first day of a big south swell, just me and my buds, nobody else out. We walked in along the side of a house, private property no doubt. The next day we tried to repeat it, made it down to the beach before some locals or who knows what, made threats and kicked us out. Too bad they missed out on the day before haha.
Once upon a time, in a faraway land, in a place called Fischer Lumber in Malibu, I overheard Laird and his friends talking about, in another aisle, what hardware they needed, I'm pretty sure, a tow in board, or maybe it was a foil..they were debating whether or not to use stainless stee hardware or not..they could not reach a consensus..I called out and said.."Use Stainless Steel, although it too will be somewhat effected by salt water"! Silence, then the sound of cart filling..maybe i helped..this was in the mid to late mid 90's I'm pretty sure...that's my very old fart contribution to this post..
For years my old sharper/friend Gregg Liddle used to tell us about Mystos..finally, around the late 80's I finally moved to Malibu..I had a friend in Pt. Dume who had a key..we used to go to Mystos and surf and on many occasions it was just the two of us out...oftentimes we would paddle out, one of us would take off, and we would not really even talk out there due to the rotation....he was on a wave, paddle back out..I was on a wave, paddle back out..we had some great surf days there...Mystos!!!!
Got some real good waves there once, the first day of a big south swell, just me and my buds, nobody else out. We walked in along the side of a house, private property no doubt. The next day we tried to repeat it, made it down to the beach before some locals or who knows what, made threats and kicked us out. Too bad they missed out on the day before haha.
Once upon a time, in a faraway land, in a place called Fischer Lumber in Malibu, I overheard Laird and his friends talking about, in another aisle, what hardware they needed, I'm pretty sure, a tow in board, or maybe it was a foil..they were debating whether or not to use stainless stee hardware or not..they could not reach a consensus..I called out and said.."Use Stainless Steel, although it too will be somewhat effected by salt water"! Silence, then the sound of cart filling..maybe i helped..this was in the mid to late mid 90's I'm pretty sure...that's my very old fart contribution to this post..
I'm picking that's a hell of a lot harder then it looks...well done getting pack into position for the peak, look like you'd gone way too south!
In 80s was my home break....fickle place though, big south swells.......couple slabs along point for bodyboarding...
super fickle. i surf here quite often. the lower area gets incredible at high tides: and the point fires up and barrels at low tide
Master of the Canvas
Mystos!
For years my old sharper/friend Gregg Liddle used to tell us about Mystos..finally, around the late 80's I finally moved to Malibu..I had a friend in Pt. Dume who had a key..we used to go to Mystos and surf and on many occasions it was just the two of us out...oftentimes we would paddle out, one of us would take off, and we would not really even talk out there due to the rotation....he was on a wave, paddle back out..I was on a wave, paddle back out..we had some great surf days there...Mystos!!!!
@@sandman93449dm my first board was a Liddle, I shaped all the rest, Cheers!
So awesome.
Seems like a super-elaborate method for 'barrel-dodging'.
0.27 bottom of screen ,
kelp?
gustavo cutillas Yes, the kind of kelp with fins and teeth.
if you have surfed so cal alot there have been sharks near you quite a few times, you just didnt know it
GOOD KIDING FOR JESUS CRIST.
That’s not technically surfing that’s speed boating 🛶 on a board