Iam 81 years old and loved dodges and plym. all of my life this man is a master he is the best we live on a old farm in Idaho USA looking over the snake river wish i could go to his shop love to watch him may GOD bless him thanks
Nick and George, need to get Nick to write his Service Manuals ,Call Nicks Big Block Building Tips , etc ... Head work ,etc .. i sure buy them . Good week to everyone...
I'm resurrecting a 1977 motorhome 440 that has been transplanted into my 1974 D200. This video answered all my upper end oil passage questions. Thanks, and I can't wait to get my truck running and enjoy it.
@@NicksGarage Since that Makida Drill has a place for a handle why not make something to mount Drill in place and turn it on and let it run while you're turning the crank by hand
Back when I was a young mechanic, I started working in a Dodge dealership. I moved on to a Chevrolet Dealership. The first cam and lifters I replaced were in a custom van. I did not know about the oil coming through the push rods. I had oil going everywhere. The detail guys were not happy with me for a good reason. The service manager gave me hell and asked me why I didn't use the oil diverters clips on the valve rockers. I didn't know about them. The next time the tool truck showed up, I bought the oil diverter clips. Problem solved. Oh well live and learn.
Outstanding video! My engine is in the process of assembly by my engine builder. It is a 1966 426 Hemi and we are also using a flat tappet cam and tool steel lifters. It was my FIL’ car 1969 Dodge Dart he got new and immediately swapped in the Hemi. He recently passed away in February of this year and I am honored to now have the car and get it back on the road. It sat in his garage in NJ for close to 50 years.
Folks, Nick keeps it simple, and all in the world is good! He explains the essentials so that your engine does not fail. Just follow the protocols, no shortcuts, work clean.
You're absolutely right if the lifter is binding in the bore it will damage a cam and lifter quick. Chevys are bad about that but Buick Olds and Pontiac are not as prone to lifter sticking. I had to learn that the hard way and if I ever put another Chevy V8 together I will always check that. And using a brake cylinder hone is a good way to deburr and clean the lifter bores. 👍
Great timing for this video, I have seen a couple of other channels recently talking about wiping out the cams and lifters because of poorly made product. I have never seen anyone put the detail into the assembly that Nick does, and I think that is why he doesn't have the same issues. Pays to be a perfectionist.
There's more than one way to get your mechanical kicks But only on Nick's Garage do you get to find out all of Nicks tips and technical tricks Today he's got his favourite a 440 valve train to fix Thanks Nick Respek George
I grew up in the muscle car era. I’m not mechanically inclined- but love those cars. Now I know the difference between a hydraulic cam and a solid lifter- only took 50 years. Awesome channel.
Hey Nick, in the future id love to see a little bit about the 6 pack intake man. Id like to see how it works- which ones feed which cylinders, etc. They look like a casting work of art. Just a thought.
Hello Nick, Love your instructions, oddly as an old guy and B block racer/builder did almost the same as you for cam break in. Back in the dark ages we used STP for cam break in, no I'm not a big fan of this but it worked well for this app. Broke cam in and changed the oil. Oddly I never experienced lifter bore problems and I used some sketchy blocks, they usually turned out to be the best runners. I did lots of taboo stuff to include used cams w used lifters and not from same cams. Never lost a cam but was only twisting it to 5500 rpm. Past this power fell off. Broke a stamped rocker once, punched a pushrod through it. Changed it and made next round. Yes we won. I loved old b blocks and 727 TF. About the only way to screw em up was to fall out of the seat.
I remember short-track engine guys about 40-50yrs ago would also paint the lifter valley and rocker/spring surface of the heads. Said oil flowed back easier over the smooth surface and took more dirt with it.
Great episode Nick!!! I really like the idea you use with the valve covers with the cutout section to prevent oil spillage and also provide a view of how well the upper valve train is lubricated when the pump is being driven with the primer shaft & Drill motor.. Also the valve spring pressures while the valves are seated and fully open.. Nice!!!
Nick ,George, and Krew , Love watching Nick building and showing his experience and expertise on the Mopars and other Muscle Cars Engines !!! Nick ,got the same ol Snap-On torque wrench too . Had it for 4 decades and have it check every so often ...it has never needed to be recalibrated....One of the best torque wrenches around . Best Wave and Smile to everyone!!!
"Burnishing" -to burnish - this is what the break-in oil and zinc additives do. They polish the mating surfaces, reducing molecular porosity, creating a harder smoother surface on which the mating parts ride. Thanks for another great video Nick.
It's a pleasure to watch Nick show and explain in a casual but detail oriented manner things like orienting cam journal passages, and VERY important and too often overlooked, SPRING PRESSURE! TOO MUCH JUST AS BAD AS TOO LITTLE! Nick NAILED IT about less is more- break in gently and THEN IF NECESSARY, just shim a little, ESPECIALLY with hydraulic flat tappets! As yet, I believe priming and keeping spring pressure at a minimum has given me NO CAM/LIFTER FAILURES in 16 engine builds over 40 years, 7 of them in the last dozen years, with flat tappet engines. ALWAYS check lifter crown (2-2.5 thousandth and 1-1.5 on HEMI cam and lifters!) Bescause machining, especially on lifters, is NOT as good as it was in the day! Nick is right about the Melling lifters, tho I recently could not get them and went with the Mopar HEMI lifters with a Huges 440 Whiplash cam, and have my fingers crossed! These lifters look like Mexico, and spec at just over 1 thousanth crown, so does the cam taper! We shall see! Nick, thanks for finally showing us your final assembly assembly and checks for those great engines!
It is a genuine pleasure to watch you work Nick and you explain everything that you are doing really well. To do that many engines and have one odd flat tappet cam failure is a testament to the fact that when you set one up and break it in that it is done correctly because they just work. Something weird happened with my Patreon account. It rejected my payment method and then I got an email from Patreon saying that it was their mistake but then they wanted me to put in a different payment method. Well I don't have a different payment method, LOL. Not sure what to do at this point.
That’s strange. We would suggest you reach out to Patreon through their website. Do not respond to that email, in case it’s a scam. Thanks for letting us know.
you can modify old distributors to use as pre-oiling drives, just remove the drive gear, remove/weld solid moving advance parts and chuck up on the rotor shaft. for styles without the pinned retainer ring, you can grind/machine the teeth off a gear. it's almost better doing it that way as the distributor body aligns the shaft with oil pump and keeps from side loading it.
Yeah Nick, I like how you utilize your assembly techniques the way the Chrysler engineers meant it to be. Such a satisfying approach to your projects. Thank You for showing us this.
Great video, can’t wait to see this on the dyno. Best use of my lunch break 🙌. When I started getting into these old motorcycles from the 60’s the old school guys schooled me on the importance of high zinc oil in them as well.
Nick, I remember street racing my ‘71 Challenger 440 SixPak and floating a few lifters, I’d manage to pull them out of the bores, put them in a small tray with oil and take a pushrod and manually pump them back up and stick them back in the engine and button it up right there in my driveway . What we would do!
Howdy, guys!!!! These instructional videos are always great viewing, cuz what's shown is good insurance against part failure (aside from defective parts, which does happen), and Nick always explains what he's doing and why. Good stuff as always. Great week, everybody!!!
Hi Nick and George, Another Monday and a how to video from Nick's Garage. I just love these instructional videos, and all of the valuable information that Nick gives the viewers. Enjoy your vacation Nick, no one deserves it more than you!!!
@@NicksGarage I almost had the terminology correct, lol. The only way to stay cool here in Texas is to hide in the house during the afternoon. 104F right now, and 52 days of 100+ Temperatures. How Nick does it, is the correct way to do something. 40+ years of experience speaks volumes.
That spring pressure is what I was looking at for my street 383. Even with the cam I wanted to use it was the best spring pressure for it. That seems to be what most springs give you even from the aftermarket. They know what works and lasts same as you:)
Nick, at Carlisle you recently ran into two friends of mine from Astoria. They said you would be coming to Astoria, but you didn't give a time frame. Give me a heads up when you decide to come and I will show you that Wing from the superbird..
If I had the heads milled to get them level or raise the compression always put the same thickness shims under the rocker shafts to keep the 40 to 60 thousandth preload on the lifters....
They make 2” silicone wheels with lots of fingers on them, come in different grits and great for light cleaning. Colour coded for grit size, Amazon has them. Thought they could be useful in a shop
It's definitely reassuring to see nick talk about the flat tappet camshafts, I got a 400 ford in a 1969 f100 that I want to take apart to get it resealed and install some new slugs to bring compression up to 9.6 with the stock 2v heads, I was planning on using a lunati cam with crower cam saver lifters but I'm inclined in using melling lifters if that's what nick uses confidently
Hope the vacation is going well Nick & Family? Wow another truly interesting wee video on how Nick does things the right way, thanks Nick. Top video Nick & George once again.
Many lifters have been found to have inproper taper n chamfer on the circumference. Which in my opinion is the major cause of all these cam failures on flat tappets
Great tips! Those stock rockers and springs in the 300# range are a good combo for mild hydraulics and pretty bullet proof. I've broken in cams with the 933 green stripe springs before that had 333-340# open. The stock Magnum Red springs were only in the 250# range. I've used 'rebuilt' bushed Max Wedge rockers before (on a Hydro stick) to get the adjustability and a 'true' 1.5 ratio, but broke-in on the factory stamped rockers. Rarely are the stamped ones an actual 1.5 and usually somewhat less, so it's easier on break-in. I've found them to be in the mid 1.3's to mid 1.4's for ratio.
Amazing job Nick. Sure do appreciate the way you explain all & show what you mean. It's becoming a lost art. Ty for your efforts in all you do! Cheers to continued success & health friend!🤝🏼✌🏼💫
Great video Nick and George! Very informative and a sure way to guarantee a good breakin of the cam. The cut-out valve covers are genius! No mess and it really shows the necessity of turning the crank so that both banks get oil flow.❤
Nick I can't help but learn from most of not all of your videos. I'm unclear about why the drill doesn't turn when you move the crank so you can see I have learning to do.
If I had someone turning the crank so the cam journal no.4 can line up with the oil feed openings on the block while I keep priming with the drill until we see oil flow to the rockers. Priming and turning crank all the time will end up with oil flow. Same time you can have oil pressure reading of about 75 PSI.
Iam 81 years old and loved dodges and plym. all of my life this man is a master he is the best we live on a old farm in Idaho USA looking over the snake river wish i could go to his shop love to watch him may GOD bless him thanks
Great video to show the engine builder how to install and break in a hydraulic camshaft!😊
It's not LUCK! It's Knowledge, consistency and SKILL!
Nick and George, need to get Nick to write his Service Manuals ,Call Nicks Big Block Building Tips , etc ... Head work ,etc .. i sure buy them . Good week to everyone...
Mr. Nick has all the right moves.
I'm resurrecting a 1977 motorhome 440 that has been transplanted into my 1974 D200. This video answered all my upper end oil passage questions. Thanks, and I can't wait to get my truck running and enjoy it.
Glad it helped!
@@NicksGarage
Since that Makida Drill has a place for a handle why not make something to mount Drill in place and turn it on and let it run while you're turning the crank by hand
@@RichardMLowe . Good point, but I do not have it. But there is no issues anyways.
Back when I was a young mechanic, I started working in a Dodge dealership. I moved on to a Chevrolet Dealership. The first cam and lifters I replaced were in a custom van. I did not know about the oil coming through the push rods. I had oil going everywhere. The detail guys were not happy with me for a good reason. The service manager gave me hell and asked me why I didn't use the oil diverters clips on the valve rockers. I didn't know about them. The next time the tool truck showed up, I bought the oil diverter clips. Problem solved. Oh well live and learn.
Outstanding video! My engine is in the process of assembly by my engine builder. It is a 1966 426 Hemi and we are also using a flat tappet cam and tool steel lifters. It was my FIL’ car 1969 Dodge Dart he got new and immediately swapped in the Hemi. He recently passed away in February of this year and I am honored to now have the car and get it back on the road. It sat in his garage in NJ for close to 50 years.
What an opportunity to have some fun👍
@@alanmeyers3957yes Sir, thank you
Father in law , took me way too long to figure that out , lol.
Good luck on the build 👍
@Nick's Garage - Thank you Nick! You are a master craftsman. No one but no one does it like you! :) I hope you have a great day. :)
Thanks, you too!
good afternoon nick and George I am ready for a great show 🛠🔧👍🇨🇦😁😊
Thanks for taking the time, Danoh. Great to have you here again.
Folks, Nick keeps it simple, and all in the world is good! He explains the essentials so that your engine does not fail. Just follow the protocols, no shortcuts, work clean.
You're absolutely right if the lifter is binding in the bore it will damage a cam and lifter quick. Chevys are bad about that but Buick Olds and Pontiac are not as prone to lifter sticking. I had to learn that the hard way and if I ever put another Chevy V8 together I will always check that. And using a brake cylinder hone is a good way to deburr and clean the lifter bores. 👍
Thanks Nick for the Mopar 440 Valve Train Assembly lesson build ❣ 👍
Old Shoe🇺🇸
Great timing for this video, I have seen a couple of other channels recently talking about wiping out the cams and lifters because of poorly made product. I have never seen anyone put the detail into the assembly that Nick does, and I think that is why he doesn't have the same issues. Pays to be a perfectionist.
Thanks Nick ,
I have learned a few things.
Central California watching
Great to hear!
There's more than one way to get your mechanical kicks But only on Nick's Garage do you get to find out all of Nicks tips and technical tricks Today he's got his favourite a 440 valve train to fix Thanks Nick Respek George
Really fascinating. Interesting to see the oil flow circuit. Great video and music too. Relaxed this evening watching this one.
Glad you enjoyed it
I grew up in the muscle car era. I’m not mechanically inclined- but love those cars. Now I know the difference between a hydraulic cam and a solid lifter- only took 50 years. Awesome channel.
Auto shop class with Professor Nick is in session! Sit down, take notes and pay attention. 😁👍🏼
nice job with the priming great oil pressure also
Thanks 👍
thanks Nick for the secrets as to why you never have problems with flat tappet cams . Hope it saves people time money and camshafts . Great info
Hey Nick, in the future id love to see a little bit about the 6 pack intake man. Id like to see how it works- which ones feed which cylinders, etc. They look like a casting work of art. Just a thought.
Hello Nick,
Love your instructions, oddly as an old guy and
B block racer/builder did almost the same as you for cam break in. Back in the dark ages we used STP for cam break in, no I'm not a big fan of this but it worked well for this app. Broke cam in and changed the oil. Oddly I never experienced lifter bore problems and I used some sketchy blocks, they usually turned out to be the best runners. I did lots of taboo stuff to include used cams w used lifters and not from same cams.
Never lost a cam but was only twisting it to 5500 rpm. Past this power fell off. Broke a stamped rocker once, punched a pushrod through it. Changed it and made next round. Yes we won. I loved old b blocks and 727 TF. About the only way to screw em up was to fall out of the seat.
That was a great show. You explained everything for anyone to understand. I really enjoyed it.
Awesome, thank you!
Simple good old 440 old school goes just as hard . 👍🏻🇦🇺💯⛽️.
Thanks Nick for all the handy tips you make it look easy keep them coming and see you Monday
A lot of people convert their engine to this style setup. You see shaft rockers in high end builds yet Chrysler did it from the factory!
Nice job teaching us Nick. Thank you.
Love these building series, learn a lot each time.
I remember short-track engine guys about 40-50yrs ago would also paint the lifter valley and rocker/spring surface of the heads. Said oil flowed back easier over the smooth surface and took more dirt with it.
I've been waiting all week fr this! I've been in withdrawal without the other show! Love the show, From Perth Australia
Great episode Nick!!! I really like the idea you use with the valve covers with the cutout section to prevent oil spillage and also provide a view of how well the upper valve train is lubricated when the pump is being driven with the primer shaft & Drill motor.. Also the valve spring pressures while the valves are seated and fully open.. Nice!!!
Nick ,George, and Krew , Love watching Nick building and showing his experience and expertise on the Mopars and other Muscle Cars Engines !!! Nick ,got the same ol Snap-On torque wrench too . Had it for 4 decades and have it check every so often ...it has never needed to be recalibrated....One of the best torque wrenches around . Best Wave and Smile to everyone!!!
That Snap-On is a rebranded Performance Instruments torque wrench. I have the 3/8 and 1/2.
@@josephphillips865 It sure works good . I have had mine for 4 decades and still on the money when being checked ...
"Burnishing" -to burnish - this is what the break-in oil and zinc additives do. They polish the mating surfaces, reducing molecular porosity, creating a harder smoother surface on which the mating parts ride.
Thanks for another great video Nick.
Thanks for the info!
It's a pleasure to watch Nick show and explain in a casual but detail oriented manner things like orienting cam journal passages, and VERY important and too often overlooked, SPRING PRESSURE! TOO MUCH JUST AS BAD AS TOO LITTLE! Nick NAILED IT about less is more- break in gently and THEN IF NECESSARY, just shim a little, ESPECIALLY with hydraulic flat tappets! As yet, I believe priming and keeping spring pressure at a minimum has given me NO CAM/LIFTER FAILURES in 16 engine builds over 40 years, 7 of them in the last dozen years, with flat tappet engines. ALWAYS check lifter crown (2-2.5 thousandth and 1-1.5 on HEMI cam and lifters!) Bescause machining, especially on lifters, is NOT as good as it was in the day! Nick is right about the Melling lifters, tho I recently could not get them and went with the Mopar HEMI lifters with a Huges 440 Whiplash cam, and have my fingers crossed! These lifters look like Mexico, and spec at just over 1 thousanth crown, so does the cam taper! We shall see! Nick, thanks for finally showing us your final assembly assembly and checks for those great engines!
It is a genuine pleasure to watch you work Nick and you explain everything that you are doing really well. To do that many engines and have one odd flat tappet cam failure is a testament to the fact that when you set one up and break it in that it is done correctly because they just work.
Something weird happened with my Patreon account. It rejected my payment method and then I got an email from Patreon saying that it was their mistake but then they wanted me to put in a different payment method. Well I don't have a different payment method, LOL. Not sure what to do at this point.
That’s strange. We would suggest you reach out to Patreon through their website. Do not respond to that email, in case it’s a scam. Thanks for letting us know.
you can modify old distributors to use as pre-oiling drives, just remove the drive gear, remove/weld solid moving advance parts and chuck up on the rotor shaft.
for styles without the pinned retainer ring, you can grind/machine the teeth off a gear. it's almost better doing it that way as the distributor body aligns the shaft with oil pump and keeps from side loading it.
Thank you. I learned a lot. Nick is Mr. Worldwide!
Excellent video Nick and George. Thank you very much!
Greetings from South Carolina Nick & crew. Nice show Nick!👍Good basic trust worthy procedures. Good for any engine build. Can't wait for Dyno day😉✌️
Right on! We have not been in the dyno for a while now, and we know folks are missing it. More to come!
Yeah Nick, I like how you utilize your assembly techniques the way the Chrysler engineers meant it to be. Such a satisfying approach to your projects. Thank You for showing us this.
Thanks 👍
Thanks Nick 👍
You bet!
Dr. Nick, I really like these in the engine room tutorial videos, to see how you build the motors, cheers.
Glad you like them!
Great video, can’t wait to see this on the dyno. Best use of my lunch break 🙌. When I started getting into these old motorcycles from the 60’s the old school guys schooled me on the importance of high zinc oil in them as well.
Thanks for sharing Nick! Loved the valve cover camera shot of the oil pooling up in the rockers.
Thanks! It is fun to see where the gopro will fit.
@@NicksGaragewas there a video where you listed the cameras and gear you use?
... This one is for you George.
I could literally watch this all day long! Keep ‘em coming!
Hello from AZ Nick and George! Nice work Nick, thank you! Nice camera work George!
Nick, I remember street racing my ‘71 Challenger 440 SixPak and floating a few lifters, I’d manage to pull them out of the bores, put them in a small tray with oil and take a pushrod and manually pump them back up and stick them back in the engine and button it up right there in my driveway . What we would do!
Howdy, guys!!!! These instructional videos are always great viewing, cuz what's shown is good insurance against part failure (aside from defective parts, which does happen), and Nick always explains what he's doing and why. Good stuff as always. Great week, everybody!!!
Nick you are so smooth and knowledgeable it’s a pleasure to watch!
Thank you.
Thank you Nick for personally answering my question about flat tappet wear and for an excellent presentation on flat tappet assembly.
Happy to help!
No rockers were harmed in this video!😊
Yes sir!
Evenin Mr Nick an George! Have a Great week!!
Thanks, you too!
Yasoo Nicholaki. Steve from Adelaide Australia watching g from the UK
Nice! Thanks for the international watch!
Hi Nick and George, Another Monday and a how to video from Nick's Garage. I just love these instructional videos, and all of the valuable information that Nick gives the viewers. Enjoy your vacation Nick, no one deserves it more than you!!!
Our pleasure, sir! But Nick is too humble to call it a 'how to'. So we call it a 'how Nick does it'. Stay cool in the Lone Star State.
@@NicksGarage I almost had the terminology correct, lol. The only way to stay cool here in Texas is to hide in the house during the afternoon. 104F right now, and 52 days of 100+ Temperatures. How Nick does it, is the correct way to do something. 40+ years of experience speaks volumes.
@@eugenecastles7475 Wow that is hot! I thought it got hot here in Sydney. Jeeezuz.
@@eugenecastles7475 ...Thanks Eugene.
Dream Cruise this weekend in Detroit, Nick!
That spring pressure is what I was looking at for my street 383. Even with the cam I wanted to use it was the best spring pressure for it. That seems to be what most springs give you even from the aftermarket. They know what works and lasts same as you:)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated! As always ✌️
Thanks nick for the tips on the product I will test it for my next engine build and will tell how it goes !!! Keep up the legend of the 440 !!!
Great info.
Thanks .
I talked to you @ the moparty when the parts guy called you from bowlingGreen, ky
440 , Cuda build. Have a great day 😊
Very cool!
Nick, at Carlisle you recently ran into two friends of mine from Astoria. They said you would be coming to Astoria, but you didn't give a time frame. Give me a heads up when you decide to come and I will show you that Wing from the superbird..
Oh I wish nicks garage was where I live in California.
Thanks Nick. Never did this process.
I love this show so much!
Thank you!
Nick/George,
These 'wrenching' videos are my favorite - thank you!
Paul (in MA)
Wow, thanks!
If I had the heads milled to get them level or raise the compression always put the same thickness shims under the rocker shafts to keep the 40 to 60 thousandth preload on the lifters....
They make 2” silicone wheels with lots of fingers on them, come in different grits and great for light cleaning. Colour coded for grit size, Amazon has them. Thought they could be useful in a shop
Thanks for the tip!
@@NicksGarage they are called bristle discs.
It's definitely reassuring to see nick talk about the flat tappet camshafts, I got a 400 ford in a 1969 f100 that I want to take apart to get it resealed and install some new slugs to bring compression up to 9.6 with the stock 2v heads, I was planning on using a lunati cam with crower cam saver lifters but I'm inclined in using melling lifters if that's what nick uses confidently
Hello from South Carolina Nick! Sure enjoyed the video as I do all them.
Hope the vacation is going well Nick & Family? Wow another truly interesting wee video on how Nick does things the right way, thanks Nick. Top video Nick & George once again.
Thanks Blinkie! 👍
Many lifters have been found to have inproper taper n chamfer on the circumference. Which in my opinion is the major cause of all these cam failures on flat tappets
That is why he uses made in USA lifters, and avoids the made in china stuff
I don't believe in luck you are very skilled you know what your doing it not good luck bad luck it is how good you are and you my sir are the best
Aluminum heads from 440 source and a roller cam.
Hi Nick! Outstanding videos! Really wish we saw more yt mechanic videos like yours. Exceptionnel et fantastique!
Glad you liked it!
3rd Plattsburgh NY view!!! Im home lol
Right on! Thanks for checking in.
Always the best! Thanks Nick!
I hope everything’s going well in the old country 🇬🇷 Niko😊
Great video as allways ....lookin good buddy !
Thank you! Cheers!
Love watching a perfectionist at this.
But I've always use STP for first time pump n lube.
No matter.
GREAT AS USUAL NICK I ONLY HAVE A 1098CC ENGINE IN MY MINOR 1960 NOT A V8 BUT LOVE YOUR VIDS
Nick , thanks for the upload although it confused this retired guy thinking it was Friday already ☺
Haha. We upload each Monday. And do a live stream on each second Friday. (Summer hours may vary) 👍
Great tips! Those stock rockers and springs in the 300# range are a good combo for mild hydraulics and pretty bullet proof. I've broken in cams with the 933 green stripe springs before that had 333-340# open. The stock Magnum Red springs were only in the 250# range. I've used 'rebuilt' bushed Max Wedge rockers before (on a Hydro stick) to get the adjustability and a 'true' 1.5 ratio, but broke-in on the factory stamped rockers. Rarely are the stamped ones an actual 1.5 and usually somewhat less, so it's easier on break-in. I've found them to be in the mid 1.3's to mid 1.4's for ratio.
Yes, the factory stamped rocker shafts have no where near 1.5 ratio. If they were, more HP.
NICK, IF YOU SHARPEN THE EDGE OF SOME OLD PUSHRODS. YOU COULD PROBABLY USE THEM AS SOUVLAKI SKEWERS FOR YOUR NEXT BARBECUE AT THE SHOP.
Haha!
Another great episode from Nick...
I use a German torque wrench “good-n-tite”. Works great.
That's easy nick that's why mopars the best
Love the video I have learned so much from you Nik thank you
Thank u George for another great video u do an excellent job
So nice of you.
Thank you for the CC.
Amazing job Nick. Sure do appreciate the way you explain all & show what you mean. It's becoming a lost art. Ty for your efforts in all you do! Cheers to continued success & health friend!🤝🏼✌🏼💫
Great video Nick and George! Very informative and a sure way to guarantee a good breakin of the cam. The cut-out valve covers are genius! No mess and it really shows the necessity of turning the crank so that both banks get oil flow.❤
Thanks 👍
Thank you Nick.
Thanks Nick! Just Excellent!!
Thanks!
Thank YOU. Much appreciated. Your support helps a lot.
Nice work George!
Thank you! Cheers!
Rebuilding 440’s near the 440! You couldn’t have asked for a better location!
Each one rolls in and out of the shop via the 440, too. 🛣
I always soak my lifters in oil before I install them so they take less time to pump up.
Very interesting video. We all learn a lot from the Master of Mopar!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it!
This was awesome, thanks Nick 👍😁
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nick I can't help but learn from most of not all of your videos. I'm unclear about why the drill doesn't turn when you move the crank so you can see I have learning to do.
If I had someone turning the crank so the cam journal no.4 can line up with the oil feed openings on the block while I keep priming with the drill until we see oil flow to the rockers. Priming and turning crank all the time will end up with oil flow. Same time you can have oil pressure reading of about 75 PSI.