I don't think it retaining YD-2 parts is a bad thing. Cheaper to develop, more upgrades ready on release and the new parts this chassis will get will fit YD-2 for those that don't want to let go of them (including me)
Oh I don't mean my in-video comments to mean its a bad thing, its more of "it still works so good so hard to move away from" but also the back catalogue of parts available and colour options already. I also agree with you in because I don't want to let me older YD-2's go either :D
Not only is it a good amount cheaper, it also comes with turnbuckles and better shocks. You dont have to go out and spend 30 bucks on turnbuckles right off the bat to get adjustability. Only thing I changed in mine is spacing up the transmission and upper deck 2mm for a bit of extra on throttle movement and to help the servo horn clear the top deck.
Nez0, loving the RD2.0! I knew you mentioned it when I spoke to you since I was considering a new chassis after building my RMX 3.0 KMW clone. I wouldn’t want to give up on my KMW-spec RMX but I feel it’s time to branch out and find some other chassis to play with. I’m leaning heavily into an RDX over the RD2.0 but the more I see the RD2.0, I can’t deny its prowess.
Aww yiss! I love my RMX 3.0 KMW #114 and other special MST's so i feel you there. MST has also shown their level of care for the customer doesn't mean anything to them anymore so yiss for sure time for branch out and try other things :D RD 2.0 is working very well. RDX in modded territory is also very interesting as well :D
hey man recently found your videos and love them. im in canada and want to build my first rc drift car and keep seeing the yokomo,but i know nothing about all ill need. any chance you can price/list everything id need to buy? can i buy through you?
i love the rc cars and the hobby overall but i don't get the plastic tires in drifting? wouldn't be amazing if you could drift the same but on regular wheels? isnt that achievable i can drift with Tamiya ta08pro with on-road wheels on it, its maybe not as easy as with plastic tyres but its definetly competitive.. this is a general question not personal.. Big love, still love the content.
Overall I think it's for a few reasons: tire life, drivetrain life, speed/pace control, cost. The very first time I actually tried to drift anything RC 1/10 it was a Tamiya TL-01 in 4WD with Tamiya's "Drift Tyres Type-B" which are rubbery and grippy. The next time proper was a CS Style 4WD 3Racing Sakura D3 which I put more plastic style Raikou tires all around. Still, the current gen Valino Overdose 30mm drift tires are sorta rubbery and have many grips even on our polished concrete track but the guys can still use them and send it, cars just move more swiftly (they use them for like 15 laps then change back). Mostly I believe it depends on track surface but ultimately the size...our barely medium sized track at Strickly Sidewayz for example would be much harder to do rubber tires on even though it is slippery polished concrete... the "grip/slip" ratio is too wide and we ran some science and many accidents happened xD (it just requires drivers to get used to it but was still too fast for our size of track) :)
Hey, do you know the weight distrubution for this car? I saw that everything was put on the back and I'm curious to see what changed since I have a RD 1.0
Helloo, I finally weighed this car the other week on a scale with the installed electronics in this video and the entire car in box stock form (same as video) and it was 33 Front/67 Rear.
Ibhave a few Tamiya bodies that already have body holes... I'm guessing they don't line up with the drift car mounts, is there an assortment of body mounts in the drift car kits to suit different bodies and mounting methods, like ones that come up off the front tower instead of the bumper? Or, which fairly inexpensive bodies should I be shopping for that would fit an RD2.0 or AE DC10 kit?
Hi Nez i have the RD yokomo with the V2 and V4 servo and gyro have orca esu and motor using futaba 4pmp i have a problem its jolting up and down when drifting any pointers on how to fix this issue kind regards Rob
It may have been me but it seemed a few of the arm lengths were not 1:1 in the manual vs what mm it said they should be. It was a really nice build though.
yeah the manual is very close to 1:1 but not exactly so i always recommend checking with a caliper to be sure. I messed up my steering links and had them about 1.8mm too long haha so i checked again after the completed build.
RD 2.0 u can do anything really. SD 2.0 is also a weapon. I personally like both a lot but given the choice between RD and SD 2.0's i'd go SD 2.0. Between the Shark vs SD 2.0? ... Shark is a conversion kit car where as the SD 2.0 is a complete car.
I already have the RD 2.0 I really like it a lot, the only issue I have with it is that my bell crank or my steering system for some reason gets loose and I have to be constantly adjusting and tightening it, that is why I want to know if is worth to do either a Shark conversion on it or just directly get and SD 2.0. Other than that everything else is working great and I am not even using fancy electronics. Thanks ❤
set it to the box manual's settings, and have a friend verify it with you and then just drive the heck out of it. Once you are used to it, then change camber/toe/ shock settings :D Aluminum shocks like Yokomo's Big Bores will bring this car alive a lot. Carbon chassis too will also improve the car a lot.
Agreed, plastic fantastic ballin' on a budget mode: RD 2.0. If you want some nice carbon and/or colours then SD 2.0. Both perform excellent and I can recommend both, this is one of those easy answers where is more how much is in the wallet vs which car is "better" :D
It's going to be a tough call however the RD 2.0 does offer more adjustments (turnbuckles all around) and a gear oil differential from the box for less cost so that is the main advantages from the box spec perspective.
I went with the rd2.0 mainly for the price and i always wanted a yd2 when they came out,and my local shop os good about keeping/getting yokomo parts in stock. These videos do help and make it difficult lol
MST RMX EX GT already available, RMX EX S Pro available for preorder now. Will be very interesting to compare. Only thing i would do about RMX EX S Pro just out of the box - cut off legs of upper deck connector (230071) - this would allow to put battery close to gearbox.
I won;t be testing anything MST in the near future as they have shown their customer's don't matter to them. They will have to fix parts support first and then win my heart back which will be very hard. I also doubt those chassis will be able to top the performance of the RDX or the RD 2.0 since the MST RMX 2.5 couldn't do it.
I don't think it retaining YD-2 parts is a bad thing. Cheaper to develop, more upgrades ready on release and the new parts this chassis will get will fit YD-2 for those that don't want to let go of them (including me)
Oh I don't mean my in-video comments to mean its a bad thing, its more of "it still works so good so hard to move away from" but also the back catalogue of parts available and colour options already. I also agree with you in because I don't want to let me older YD-2's go either :D
Not only is it a good amount cheaper, it also comes with turnbuckles and better shocks. You dont have to go out and spend 30 bucks on turnbuckles right off the bat to get adjustability. Only thing I changed in mine is spacing up the transmission and upper deck 2mm for a bit of extra on throttle movement and to help the servo horn clear the top deck.
Yup RD 2.0 has advantages from the box in terms of tuning right away.
Nez0, loving the RD2.0! I knew you mentioned it when I spoke to you since I was considering a new chassis after building my RMX 3.0 KMW clone.
I wouldn’t want to give up on my KMW-spec RMX but I feel it’s time to branch out and find some other chassis to play with.
I’m leaning heavily into an RDX over the RD2.0 but the more I see the RD2.0, I can’t deny its prowess.
Aww yiss! I love my RMX 3.0 KMW #114 and other special MST's so i feel you there. MST has also shown their level of care for the customer doesn't mean anything to them anymore so yiss for sure time for branch out and try other things :D
RD 2.0 is working very well. RDX in modded territory is also very interesting as well :D
Really want one of these to drive alongside my RDX! It looks so planted!
Aww yiss :D :D :D
I sold my RDX and after a few settings and other dampers I like the RD 2.0 better than the RDX 🙈
hey man recently found your videos and love them. im in canada and want to build my first rc drift car and keep seeing the yokomo,but i know nothing about all ill need. any chance you can price/list everything id need to buy? can i buy through you?
i love the rc cars and the hobby overall but i don't get the plastic tires in drifting? wouldn't be amazing if you could drift the same but on regular wheels? isnt that achievable i can drift with Tamiya ta08pro with on-road wheels on it, its maybe not as easy as with plastic tyres but its definetly competitive.. this is a general question not personal.. Big love, still love the content.
Overall I think it's for a few reasons: tire life, drivetrain life, speed/pace control, cost. The very first time I actually tried to drift anything RC 1/10 it was a Tamiya TL-01 in 4WD with Tamiya's "Drift Tyres Type-B" which are rubbery and grippy. The next time proper was a CS Style 4WD 3Racing Sakura D3 which I put more plastic style Raikou tires all around. Still, the current gen Valino Overdose 30mm drift tires are sorta rubbery and have many grips even on our polished concrete track but the guys can still use them and send it, cars just move more swiftly (they use them for like 15 laps then change back). Mostly I believe it depends on track surface but ultimately the size...our barely medium sized track at Strickly Sidewayz for example would be much harder to do rubber tires on even though it is slippery polished concrete... the "grip/slip" ratio is too wide and we ran some science and many accidents happened xD (it just requires drivers to get used to it but was still too fast for our size of track) :)
Where do you buy one and how much would this cost. I wanna get into RC drifting but not sure where to start. I’m in Toronto
Hey, do you know the weight distrubution for this car? I saw that everything was put on the back and I'm curious to see what changed since I have a RD 1.0
Helloo, I finally weighed this car the other week on a scale with the installed electronics in this video and the entire car in box stock form (same as video) and it was 33 Front/67 Rear.
Ibhave a few Tamiya bodies that already have body holes... I'm guessing they don't line up with the drift car mounts, is there an assortment of body mounts in the drift car kits to suit different bodies and mounting methods, like ones that come up off the front tower instead of the bumper? Or, which fairly inexpensive bodies should I be shopping for that would fit an RD2.0 or AE DC10 kit?
Hi Nez i have the RD yokomo with the V2 and V4 servo and gyro have orca esu and motor using futaba 4pmp i have a problem its jolting up and down when drifting any pointers on how to fix this issue kind regards Rob
Im looking into then rc drift scene. Should I stick with yokomo electrocnis for this car only and what transmitter works well for the money?
I'm building one now as my first drift car!
It may have been me but it seemed a few of the arm lengths were not 1:1 in the manual vs what mm it said they should be. It was a really nice build though.
yeah the manual is very close to 1:1 but not exactly so i always recommend checking with a caliper to be sure. I messed up my steering links and had them about 1.8mm too long haha so i checked again after the completed build.
In terms of upgrades. What is the route to go? Do a conversion to Shark or jump into an SD 2.0?
RD 2.0 u can do anything really. SD 2.0 is also a weapon. I personally like both a lot but given the choice between RD and SD 2.0's i'd go SD 2.0. Between the Shark vs SD 2.0? ... Shark is a conversion kit car where as the SD 2.0 is a complete car.
I already have the RD 2.0 I really like it a lot, the only issue I have with it is that my bell crank or my steering system for some reason gets loose and I have to be constantly adjusting and tightening it, that is why I want to know if is worth to do either a Shark conversion on it or just directly get and SD 2.0. Other than that everything else is working great and I am not even using fancy electronics. Thanks ❤
@@cianu6 Drill it out and use a long counter sunk screw with a nylock nut at the top.
great video, just ordered one!!
I just recently built one of these. Any setup/modification tips for a newb to drifting like myself?
set it to the box manual's settings, and have a friend verify it with you and then just drive the heck out of it. Once you are used to it, then change camber/toe/ shock settings :D Aluminum shocks like Yokomo's Big Bores will bring this car alive a lot. Carbon chassis too will also improve the car a lot.
@@BadShoppe Awesome thanks. I'm thinking of upgrading the shocks as the kit ones didn't feel real smooth.
What tires are you running?
when you say RDX, do you mean the 2.5 rtr?
Reve D RDX chassis
Great ! Thsnx !!
I am Japanese. I want to be a friend ! Someday in Japan!(^^)!
Which do you like RD2.0 or YD-2Z or RDX ?
Rd 2.0 vs Sd 2.0. ?
Cost effective performance on a budget, RD2.0....want carbon fiber and "limited edition color" options, SD2.0
Agreed, plastic fantastic ballin' on a budget mode: RD 2.0. If you want some nice carbon and/or colours then SD 2.0. Both perform excellent and I can recommend both, this is one of those easy answers where is more how much is in the wallet vs which car is "better" :D
Thats where I'm at now cant decide between rdx or rd2.0
It's going to be a tough call however the RD 2.0 does offer more adjustments (turnbuckles all around) and a gear oil differential from the box for less cost so that is the main advantages from the box spec perspective.
I went with the rd2.0 mainly for the price and i always wanted a yd2 when they came out,and my local shop os good about keeping/getting yokomo parts in stock. These videos do help and make it difficult lol
Both!
What gyro sensitivity do you usually run?
Anywhere between 50-65% for most cars.
I’m getting one tomorrow
Heck yiss did you get it? :D
MST RMX EX GT already available, RMX EX S Pro available for preorder now. Will be very interesting to compare. Only thing i would do about RMX EX S Pro just out of the box - cut off legs of upper deck connector (230071) - this would allow to put battery close to gearbox.
I won;t be testing anything MST in the near future as they have shown their customer's don't matter to them. They will have to fix parts support first and then win my heart back which will be very hard. I also doubt those chassis will be able to top the performance of the RDX or the RD 2.0 since the MST RMX 2.5 couldn't do it.