Great video, but read this before you order a new switch. It literally took me 5 minutes to remove the door, take out the six screws, and pull the fridge out a few inches (and for some reason I had been really dreading that!). I jumped the two terminals and, like the fridge in your video, my burner stayed lit. So (also per your video) the problem must be the switch, right? However, I remembered seeing another video where a guy had a similar problem (although he was diagnosing with with a volt meter, ohm meter, etc) and his issue ended up being a corroded connection. So rather than just ordering a new switch, I cleaned all the spade connectors between the switch and thermocouple gas diverter and she stayed lit! So the problem MAY be a bad switch, but it could also just be a less than optimal connection to or from the switch. I remembered the other youtuber saying how these wires are carrying millivolts, so any change to the resistance (corrosion) could be the difference between it working and not working. Again, great video. It really helped me out.
Mine would stay lit when making that connection, but the connection was holding the lighter button in. Is that the click when the lighter button is released? I was going to buy the part but rv guy here sa yt s it is probably flame sensor.
This is great video helping us figure out what part is defective. Thank you . Can you suggest where to order the switch from?? we have the same switch problem it seems. I cleaned the burner and it now has good flame just goes out when i release the button.
What does it mean if when you jumper the two wires and the flame indicator drops but when i let go of the gas flow button the burner stays lit. Is it possibly a bad thermocouple?
Thanks. Unfortunately I don't have any contacts in Florida. I'm on the west coast. But if you go to Thetford.com (norcolds parent company) you should be able to find a service center near you.
I have had my trailer for about a year and a half and had to replace the thermocouple 3 times only get about 3 uses out of it what could it be that's blowing it out
Thanks for the video and info , I'm rebuilding some older RV fridges and this will help !!
Great video, but read this before you order a new switch. It literally took me 5 minutes to remove the door, take out the six screws, and pull the fridge out a few inches (and for some reason I had been really dreading that!). I jumped the two terminals and, like the fridge in your video, my burner stayed lit. So (also per your video) the problem must be the switch, right? However, I remembered seeing another video where a guy had a similar problem (although he was diagnosing with with a volt meter, ohm meter, etc) and his issue ended up being a corroded connection. So rather than just ordering a new switch, I cleaned all the spade connectors between the switch and thermocouple gas diverter and she stayed lit! So the problem MAY be a bad switch, but it could also just be a less than optimal connection to or from the switch. I remembered the other youtuber saying how these wires are carrying millivolts, so any change to the resistance (corrosion) could be the difference between it working and not working. Again, great video. It really helped me out.
Thanks for adding this, checked my connections, turned out the spade connections were loose on the switch. All good now.
Thanks. That's awesome.@@drelliott40
Mine would stay lit when making that connection, but the connection was holding the lighter button in. Is that the click when the lighter button is released? I was going to buy the part but rv guy here sa yt s it is probably flame sensor.
How do you know it is not the flame sensor?
This is great video helping us figure out what part is defective. Thank you . Can you suggest where to order the switch from?? we have the same switch problem it seems. I cleaned the burner and it now has good flame just goes out when i release the button.
You can try pdxrvwholesale.com. I checked Amazon but I didn't see the switch there. I will get back to you tomorrow and give you the part number
What does it mean if when you jumper the two wires and the flame indicator drops but when i let go of the gas flow button the burner stays lit. Is it possibly a bad thermocouple?
Great video. Mine is in a 2005 Rialta as well. Any idea where can I have mine checked and serviced in S. FL ?
Thanks. Unfortunately I don't have any contacts in Florida. I'm on the west coast. But if you go to Thetford.com (norcolds parent company) you should be able to find a service center near you.
www.thetford.com/customer-support/dealer-and-service-center-locator/
Thank you, I’ll contact them.
This helps a lot. What is the switch part number? thanks
619618
I think you mean 619168, which is discontinued and no longer available anywhere. I don't see that there's a replacement.
Maybe 620
Maybe 620863 is the replacement
I have had my trailer for about a year and a half and had to replace the thermocouple 3 times only get about 3 uses out of it what could it be that's blowing it out
Is the burner dirty? Thermocouple might not be the problem if it's not burning hot enough to stay lit.
@@rvtechtips874 the thing is if I replace the thermocouple it works again but only for a few trips