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Norcold N300.3 Diagnostics for Winnebago Rialta HD
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- The Propane operation of the Norcold N300 series refrigerator can be a source of frustration. In the video I will show you a few things to look for to help diagnose possible problems with the operation. Typical problems are dirty burner, misaligned thermocouple, thermocouple failure, interrupter, excess resistance in wiring and switch between terminals of the interrupter.
So I have replaced the thermocouple,interrupter, safety valve, and switch is cleaned. I get 22mv from red wire out of interrupter to switch and back through the blue wire. When I connect the blue wire to the interrupter, it drops to 0. Any thoughts?
Great video, mine is in a 2005 Rialta HD which I don’t use a lot. Any idea where to get it checked and serviced?
Thanks.
How did you get the fridge pulled out enough to access the controls above the fridge? I've got most screws removed but doesn't want to come out. Anything hidden in the back?
In the front of the Fridge are three screws on each side. You will need to remove the fridge door. To do that remove the screw from to top hinge.
In the back you need to remove the screws of the anchor plates. There are 4 Phillips screws on each side. You may have to disconnect the propane line depending on how far forward you push the fridge. There is some play in the propane line, but be careful not to stress it. Be sure to turn off gas at the propane tank first.
After all the screws are removed and to the propane line disconnected, gently push the fridge forward from the rear. It should slide forward.
I hope that helps. I spent a lot of time and money on parts getting the fridge working and it has been running great. Let me know if you need further help.
I went camping in subzero conditions and my N302.3 stopped working. The burner lights fine, the meter goes into the green, but the fridge does not get cold. It also does not work on AC or DC. Anybody know where to start with that?
My problem is the fridge (N302) is at 26 degrees F regardless of the cold setting and regardless if on LP or shore power. the freezer is at -10 degrees F. I found a loose thermocouple (copper tube going to burner), tightened it but nothing changed. Is this a thermistor issue only?
I have the same issue (at least on gas, don't know about electric). Did you ever find a solution?
I'm up north with my featherlite gooseneck horse trailer that's converted to a toy hauler and it has this fridge. I will light it and the indicator just gets into the green I can hear the burner going and looked at it though the inspection cover burning pretty good. Give it like 10 minutes and it just shuts off. I tried cramming a piece of cardboard into the pilot button holding it in hoping that would keep it burning but it still shuts right off after 10 minutes or so. The last owner told me he replaced the thermocouple at one point. I'm a mechanic and can work on just about anything your video made perfect sense to me. I think I'm going to start with cleaning the burner and making sure the thermocouple is aligned properly. If that doesn't work I'll try checking the millivolts and hot wiring it. Any ideas on why it would turn off after awhile on it's own? I've been just restating it every time I can it seems to be staying decently cool
That is a good question. If you release the safety valve and it goes out right away then I would suspect the voltage is to low.. If it stays lit for 10 minutes after you release the safety valve then perhaps the propane flow is being reduced as the fridge cools and the voltage drops below what the safety needs. Try keeping it on max cooling and see if it stays lit. I would clean the burner, and check the thermocouple alignment. If that does not work try bypassing the interrupter as a test only. If that works then you most likely have too much resistance in the wires or selector switch.
@@vwbus79 should have good propane flow I have a full tank and the furnace stove and water heater work great. I've only had the temperature set to 5 I did try turning it down some once no difference. When I get home I'll dig into it. How far should that indicator go into the green range? It only moves a couple needle widths into the green
@@1997cr80rI am not sure how much into the green the needle should go as I replaced mine with a millivolt meter. I would say the higher the better as that means less resistance in the wires or selector switch. If you had the temperature knob at 5 it should stay on. It should also stay on as long as you depress the safety switch.
@@vwbus79 interesting yep it just shuts off after 10 minutes or so even with the button locked down
@@vwbus79 hey thanks for being responsive and making this great video I figured out my issue! My burner orifice was clogged up some. I damaged the burner and the orifice in the process of cleaning it but got it good enough that it stays lit and the indicator is all the way in the green. I used a thumb tac to clean the orifice hole but I might have reamed it out a tad too big I'm not sure but in process of removing the orifice it was pretty stuck I ended up twisting and breaking the metal between a couple of the burners air intake holes so I think it might be getting too much air now. But i took the burner cover off and started the fridge and found a very weak flame nothing like yours. I have a appropriate size flame now that's touching the thermocouple which it wasn't before but it's not a very clean burn and it's a rumbling flame. I ordered a new burner/orifice assembly so when that comes in I'll install it and let it run for a few hours to make forsure its ready to go and I'll report back again
Just got a newer camper with a n300 which wont stay lit in propane mode. Lights fine, but after releasing the safety, just goes out immediately. Cleaned the burner and orfice so far. Seems like either the safety is cutting it off due to current issues, or at home at 5600' its orfice just wont work. Ideas?? Thx.
It could be the red and blue wires from the interrupter or the selector switch contact. The circuit from the interrupter to the selector switch and back can build up resistance. There is a wire kit available which has better connectors and heavier wire. My problem turned out to be resistance at the contact used for the gas setting. The switch can be removed by pulling the knob and removing the screws. The switch can be taken apart and the contact cleaned. I replaced my switch and that solved the problem. A way to diagnose the problem is to bypass the switch by connecting a wire from one connector directly to the other connector on the interrupter. Once the fridge is lit, it should stay on if the problem is with resistance in the wires or switch. You will have to disconnect the wire or turn off the gas to shut off the fridge, since the selector switch has been bypassed. Bypassing the switch should only be used for diagnosis not for a permanent solution.
Also if you have a multimeter you can test the millivolts at the connector on the interrupter closest to the thermocouple and make sure you are getting 30 millivolts with the wires disconnected and the fridge lit and the safety pushed in. If you are getting less than 15 millivolts, your thermocouple may be misaligned or bad.
Let me know what the solution turns out to be.
Wires! Fixed. For now...
I have the problem that Lars smiths had. But I will tell you, my flame when lit, is not as big as yours. I have put in a new thermalcouple, and no change. I wonder if because flame is so low, not heating up couple? Could the burner control is culprit? Is there a voltage to open the valve more? I could clean switch. Just not sure if related due to low flame?
If you have not removed and cleaned the burner, I would do that first. Make sure the propane valve on the back of the fridge is all the way on. Also make sure the temperature control valve is on the max setting which should be the 5 setting.
The best way to tell if the thermocouple is getting hot enough is to measure the voltage at the thermocouple side of the interrupter. You should get around 20 to 30 millivolts.
Also the thermocouple should be in the hottest part of the flame as in the video.
Let me know how it goes. It is possible the temperature control unit which controls the gas flow could be limiting the flow of propane.
+Rialta99 I failed to mention to make sure to turn off the gas at the propane tank before removing, cleaning and reinstalling the burner. Rust from the flu can drop down onto the burner and clog the slots in the burner.
I use a 1/4" Rachel with a Phillips head socket to remove the burner screw. Also you will have to disconnect the burner from the propane line.
After reinstalling the burner check for propane leaks using soapy water.
Yes, burner was removed and cleaned. then replaced thermal couple. I just ordered the replacement wires. When they get here, I will do the work then. I understand it has not worked since last owner bought the camper. I'm owner #3. Owner #2 is a good friend, he has not persued a repair like I have. He just tried the thermal couple replacement 3-4 years ago,and gave up.
+Jeff Powers It is probably the wires or the selector switch? As a test, did you try bypassing the wires and selector switch by running a wire from one end of the interrupter to the other? If it stays lit then you can shut off the fridge by disconnecting the bypass wire or turning off the gas.
I have a norcold 400 pretty much the same as everyone else soon as I take my finger off the safety valve pilot goes out. First I changed thermocouple still nothing then I think I cleaned the back it still didn’t work Then I replaced the burner and orifice worked one time in my driveway but of course when I left it stopped. Then I replaced the temp sensor I think it was called same thing worked in my driveway then when I left stopped. I tried like you said and bypassed the switch I’m assuming the small blue wire is just for the green and white meter. I went and got a multi meter if I was doing it right it read only 8 mill amps and on the other side only one. Like I said I replaced my thermocouple already I hope it’s not bad it was 60 bucks.They are pretty proud of those. Anyway if you have any input it would be much appreciated.
I would read through all the messages. Make sure the thermocouple is properly aligned in the top of the blue part of the burner flame. Make sure your burner is clean. Then you can try to bypass the interrupter as a test only by connecting both ends of it with a wire. If it stays lit when you release the safety chances are it is due to resistance in the wires, connections, or selector switch. If you bypass the interupter then you will have to shut off fridge by shutting off the propane or disconnecting the bypass wire. Remember the safety is there for a reason, so only bypass the interrupter for diagnosis.
Rialta99 I fixed it thanks I guess it was the contacts on controller I sprayed with brake cleaner all I had but it worked.. thank you
@@paulmayfield9709 Glad you got it fixed and you very welcome.
Rialta99 it did it again I guess maybe I should get something besides brake cleaner. But it works in a pinch I guess.
@@paulmayfield9709 I used De-ox It. I did end up replacing my selector switch and that did the trick.
My N300.3 will spark and make a and flame as the burner tries to light, but it immediately goes out. The gas lines are purged of air, orifice is clean, pressure at the orofice is 11 WC, and I've cleaned the burner inside and out. I have also tested the thermocouple and interrupter terminals, and everything reads ZERO millivolts, however, this is with NO FLAME at the pilot/burner. As far as I understand, you can't test any voltages until you first have a flame, since all of the (milli)voltage is generated by the TC when it gets hot. Am I correct? So what is the problem, a faulty gas safety valve? Interrupter? TC? Also I'm looking at replacing the Interrupter red/blue wires. Thanks.
If you can light the fridge with the spark igniter as you are holding the safety button in then it should stay lit as your keep pushing the safety button in. If it does stay lit and your meter goes into the green then your Thermocouple is working. If you are getting flame out immediately then your burner box is flooded with propane, so you need to wait 5 minutes before trying again or you can try using a barbecue lighter from the outside while having someone hold the safety button in on the inside.
The next thing I would suspect is the selector switch. That was ultimately the problem with mine. You can test this by lighting the fridge with the safety in. Then use a jumper to connect the two terminals on the interrupter. When you let go of the safety, the fridge should stay lit as you are no longer having resistance from the wires or selector switch lowering the voltage below the needed 15 milli-volts. Be forewarned by jumping the interrupter the only way to turn fridge off is by removing the jumper or shutting off the propane. It is not a solution only a test. If this works you can try the wire kit or make up your own wires. You can also spray de-oxit on the terminals and into the selector switch. I just replaced my selector switch with a new one.
Other than that make sure your thermocouple is lined up in the blue flame properly as in the video. Also I recently replaced my burner and it works much better. The burners do get old and corroded over time.
Thanks for watching and let me know if you need more help. Sorry for the delayed response as I am traveling.
@@vwbus79 thanks for all the info. Last week, I got the pilot to stay lit by jumping the interrupter, but only with the safety button held down. This allowed me to test the TC which put out 24 mv which was marginal so I ordered a new one, along with the wire kit, new safety valve and interrupter for $82. I was about to take to my local RV store but figured the repairs would probably be in the hundreds, so this is the cheapest way to go. If that doesn't fix it, I'll go with the new selector switch as you mentioned, I see I can get them for about $52. Thanks again for all the info.
@@vwbus79 Hey, I wanted to thank you. It was the selector switch, I found one on ebay for $52. If only I'd been able to reach you before I replaced 4 other parts (thermocouple, interrupter, blue/red interrupter wire, a necessary upgrade, and safety valve which I damaged on disassembly) I would have saved another $82. As it was the total $134 I spent was way cheaper than if I'd taken it to an RV repair place. If you hadn't queued me into the selector switch, I don't know what I would have done. After reading possibly 30 other forums researching this issue, you were the ONLY person to suggest the selector switch. Now I know more than my local dealers :)
@@kcomst I am glad you got the fridge working and do not feel bad about all the new parts. I also bought a thermocouple, wire kit, safety valve, and interrupter, before I figured it must be the selector switch. It was quite a learning experience. Enjoy your cold fridge!!!
Rialta99 ok I’m in the same boat have already don’t the burner and orifice thermocouple and the interrupter. Then I bypassed the selector switch and just hook the two wires manually. It worked for a little while but now won’t work again. Thus is s as bout the third or fourth time I fixed it. Then as soon as I leave it doesn’t work anymore, unless I hold down the safety switch with a screw then it e we I’ll stay lit. But wh re m I do get it to stay lit it e we I’ll just add lol of a sudden go out or sometime if I move the wires but sometimes when I move wires it won’t go out . But I found if I hit the front of the fridge it will put the pilot out. I guess I will try and bypass the interrupter also see if that works Also the green and wire meter every once in awhile the needle doesn’t go up but if I hit the igniter a couple times it will go up
Thank You for the great video. How do you remove that safety valve? I can't get the loctite off ;-( Thank You
I am not sure about that. The odds of the safety valve failing are probably low. What makes you think it failed?
I installed thermocouple, interrupter, the wire switch and other parts, when I go to light it after bleeding the stove stays lite after turning it off the burners make a popping noise, and the pilot light will not stay lit. The meter does work. I'm thinking the gas is stopping at the safety valve? I don't know?
I have had that popping noise when I turned off the burners on the stove. It only happened a few times. You may have blocked burner ports. See this video ua-cam.com/video/fJZhyunyJb0/v-deo.html Also make sure your propane valve is fully opened at the propane tank.
Have you measured the voltage between the two connectors on the interrupter? Also I found the replacement interrupter did not work as well as the original. I put the old one back in and it works well.
Also as in the message below, did you try bypassing the wires and selector switch by connecting the two interrupter connectors together with a single wire? Note only do this as a simple test. In order to shut of the fridge you will need to turn off the propane or disonnect the bypass wire to the interrupter. If it does stay lit using the test then you have resistance in the selector switch or wires.
The popping noise is scary. I haven't heard it before and I let the burners run longer. I did clean the burners. I'll check out the UA-cam Video Thank You.
I too have replaced the interrupter 3 times due to being faulty. The last one checks out.
Ops no I'm bad I did not bypass the wires/selector. I'll give it a try!!!
Thank You so much!!! I appreciate your advice!!! Have a Great Weekend ;-)