you have improved on so many levels: climbing, editing. story telling. You are a role model for me. You teached me to keep strong, not only on climbing. also on my mindset. Thank you
Ozzy, what a gratifying (and certainly well-deserved) compliment it must be to have inspired not one, but TWO of us in each of these disciplines and in life. Markus, your sincerity and self-awareness are a strength, man. Also, your compliment was so well-said. Thx for sharing your thoughts with this community.
This is such an underrated skill. Focusing on pressing with your feet while still getting accurate hands can make routes & boulders feel massively easier. Thanks for the videos Oswaldo!
The way you explained pressing with your feet toward the hold, and not away from the wall… It finally clicked with why my dynamic moves are not improving! Thank you 🙏
My TL;DR: 1. Stay low, don't "T-Rex". By keeping your legs like a wound spring, they can deliver maximal power. 2. Generate momentum from the hips, your center of gravity. Deliver *no* power through the legs *until* your hips are directly in the path from the feet to your target hold in 3-D space. 3a. Deliver the power through the posterior chain: back and glutes engaged to keep hips close to the wall, through hamstrings, to the calves and toe flexors. 3b. If the hold is within deadpoint range, release no feet or hand and keep them engaged through the end. If it's beyond that, keep feet pushing and other hand pulling for as long as possible to keep yourself close to the wall. By the time your hand hits the target of your dyno, your posterior chain is ready to curl up (Janja Garnbret style) to minimize as much swing by converting translational momentum into rotational momentum (the classic ice skater example). And that's it!
The part about being decisive spoke to me. Don’t just get on the wall without a plan. I need to apply this to life. I’m such a just see what happens kind of guy.
It is so awesome that you are climbing at the same gym as I do now. You are just as cool in person as you are on these videos. These how-to vids are my favorite and I learn so much from them. Keep up them coming. Smearing is a technique I really need to work on more.
Such a good video. I have been focusing on paying attention to my feet more for noticing when and how much power I am delivering to them. I never have notice that the little pump you do helps with dynamic movement but never understood why. It makes so much sense and I feel like it is going to be key in helping with dynamic movement. Thanks
Thanks for this man! I’ve been training so hard almost everyday to improve my climbing and mainly focused on strength training thinking that it’s the only key to getting my first v6-7. But didn’t really see a significant increase in my grade difficulty since i lack all those other techniques and my problem solving isn’t very good as well. My mental aspect is very poor, I’m so afraid of failure and falling, and people seeing me fail in the gym. I’d love to see you make a content about the mental aspect of climbing, that would be helpful for many new climbers i think. You gained a new subscriber by the way!
Hey Oz, For the second dyno, i just noticed, but do correct me if Im wrong is it possible to swap your feet from that position before going for the dyno or is it a really cramped? That way you have less counter balancing to do with your left foot trying to bring it back for a backflag? Just a thought. Good videos sir keep it up.
That's a great point! I tried it on a couple of my attempts and I just felt very cramped and really hard to be explosive from it. The sloper hold I'm going to it's pretty far, hard to tell on video. The beta I use I can really crank back and be explosive to reach that far hold without feeling cramped. I can see it work for a different climber maybe!
so when I think about it, and from what I saw in your video, jumping towards or away from the wall depends, at least in part, on your hips, right? If your hips are away from the wall, since your legs are angled towards your hip when straighter, they point away from the wall too. So when you jump, you jump away. With your hips close, your legs are more under the hips, and you jump closer to the wall and up. Does that sound correct? Great video as always sir ^_^ thank you for all the lessons.
Future Ozzie? Always great to “relearn” and instill right skills. If we don’t check in our form periodically, I think we’re apt to develop bad habits like the 3 mentioned. Now it’s Fran in my mind I’ll look for them when climbing. 🙏🤘
You have a great point there! You’d want to avoid building bad habits because it gets more difficult to unlearn them in the future. Thanks for sharing Jon! This gives me a great idea for a future video!
Very informative video! You aced it.. AGAIN. Have always been kind of scared of doing dynamic moves due to my fear of falling.. but will keep working on it. I realized that it can help me improve so much in climbing, also because I am petite. LOL. Looking forward for more of your videos Oswaldo. Wish we can meet you in person once the borders open. :)) It will be such an honor.
As a petite climber who prefers to static everything I feel this 😅 I'm trying to work on actually making the big moves that I have to do on nearly every route.
So cool that you're living in Vegas now. Origin is my home gym so you gotta start cranking out videos sooner so I can work these same problems ;) I think they just redid this wall so this problem is already down. I'm an overweight novice climber that can't climb V6, could it would be neat get on the same problem and try your techniques to get better.
Really informative, could you kindly advice not to hit your knee into the wall while doing the dynamic moves? There was a occasion that I smash my knee into a jug and I had to call off the session straight away haha
ouch! I won’t lie.. it’s happened to me too before lol and it hurts! Some holds/volumes do get in the way and you just have to position yourself in a way to avoid hitting your knee. hope you’re ok now!
Keeping weight on other feet or hands you don't have to lose if they remain in range will save the brunt of the weight and shearing force off of those few poor cm² of skin. Of you're already doing that, keeping flappers and callouses in check by trimming and shaving will keep them from becoming a node that invites more shearing forces!
Hello friends, Hope this helps you with your current or future projects! Much love and thanks for watching.
you have improved on so many levels: climbing, editing. story telling. You are a role model for me. You teached me to keep strong, not only on climbing. also on my mindset. Thank you
This means A LOT! I try my best to improve my skills in climbing, editing, story telling and overall life. Much appreciated, thank you!
Ozzy, what a gratifying (and certainly well-deserved) compliment it must be to have inspired not one, but TWO of us in each of these disciplines and in life.
Markus, your sincerity and self-awareness are a strength, man. Also, your compliment was so well-said. Thx for sharing your thoughts with this community.
This is such an underrated skill. Focusing on pressing with your feet while still getting accurate hands can make routes & boulders feel massively easier. Thanks for the videos Oswaldo!
Glad you mentioned focus. Lots of times I’ll make a catch and fall only to realize that I took my focus off a foot.
The way you explained pressing with your feet toward the hold, and not away from the wall… It finally clicked with why my dynamic moves are not improving! Thank you 🙏
My TL;DR:
1. Stay low, don't "T-Rex". By keeping your legs like a wound spring, they can deliver maximal power.
2. Generate momentum from the hips, your center of gravity. Deliver *no* power through the legs *until* your hips are directly in the path from the feet to your target hold in 3-D space.
3a. Deliver the power through the posterior chain: back and glutes engaged to keep hips close to the wall, through hamstrings, to the calves and toe flexors.
3b. If the hold is within deadpoint range, release no feet or hand and keep them engaged through the end. If it's beyond that, keep feet pushing and other hand pulling for as long as possible to keep yourself close to the wall. By the time your hand hits the target of your dyno, your posterior chain is ready to curl up (Janja Garnbret style) to minimize as much swing by converting translational momentum into rotational momentum (the classic ice skater example).
And that's it!
Perfect!
The part about being decisive spoke to me. Don’t just get on the wall without a plan. I need to apply this to life. I’m such a just see what happens kind of guy.
It is so awesome that you are climbing at the same gym as I do now. You are just as cool in person as you are on these videos. These how-to vids are my favorite and I learn so much from them. Keep up them coming. Smearing is a technique I really need to work on more.
I love the community at origin and felt so welcomed! Thanks brotha for the love and support!
I love these super detailed instructional videos you make about specific skills or projects. Can’t get enough. Seriously, you’re the best around!
Thank you!
Great timing! I have been working on getting better at dynamic moves in climbs lately so this was really helpful. Thank you!
Love the random ‘shhhh!’ You hear in the background. This is a great video. Im a new climber and get blinders towards that ‘next’ hold.
I love these breakdown type videos , great to come back to them for a refresher
Such a good video. I have been focusing on paying attention to my feet more for noticing when and how much power I am delivering to them. I never have notice that the little pump you do helps with dynamic movement but never understood why. It makes so much sense and I feel like it is going to be key in helping with dynamic movement. Thanks
thank you oswaldo you are the best!! always helping my technique day in and day out.
Excellent analysis Ozzie! Amazing how just some minor tweaks make a world of difference.
Thanks for this man! I’ve been training so hard almost everyday to improve my climbing and mainly focused on strength training thinking that it’s the only key to getting my first v6-7. But didn’t really see a significant increase in my grade difficulty since i lack all those other techniques and my problem solving isn’t very good as well. My mental aspect is very poor, I’m so afraid of failure and falling, and people seeing me fail in the gym. I’d love to see you make a content about the mental aspect of climbing, that would be helpful for many new climbers i think. You gained a new subscriber by the way!
9:04 when shes sitting there, waiting for you to make the first move
Another absolute banger tutorial! THANK YOU!
Thank you!
This is the exact video I needed for where I'm at with my climbing! Keep up the great content, my guy.
Perfect timing!
This is awesome 🙌! I try to static everything because I suck at dynamic moves so this breakdown was super helpful
Loving the lofi beats in the background 👌
another great video, keep it up!!! as noob climber you videos are helping me a hell of alot. ty bro
you explained this so well! this whole time i've been focusing only on the hold i want to hit - will try these tips out next sesh! thank you 🙏
Hey Oz,
For the second dyno, i just noticed, but do correct me if Im wrong is it possible to swap your feet from that position before going for the dyno or is it a really cramped?
That way you have less counter balancing to do with your left foot trying to bring it back for a backflag?
Just a thought.
Good videos sir keep it up.
That's a great point! I tried it on a couple of my attempts and I just felt very cramped and really hard to be explosive from it. The sloper hold I'm going to it's pretty far, hard to tell on video. The beta I use I can really crank back and be explosive to reach that far hold without feeling cramped. I can see it work for a different climber maybe!
Thats usually always the case, its hard to tell when just watching someone else climb until you get a feel for the position yourself.
Thats how i read it to
so when I think about it, and from what I saw in your video, jumping towards or away from the wall depends, at least in part, on your hips, right? If your hips are away from the wall, since your legs are angled towards your hip when straighter, they point away from the wall too. So when you jump, you jump away. With your hips close, your legs are more under the hips, and you jump closer to the wall and up. Does that sound correct?
Great video as always sir ^_^ thank you for all the lessons.
This man climbs like a ballerina. It's soo satisfying to watch!!
Awesome video, super helpful! Really cool since I also asked a couple vids ago for a video just like this lol
Hehehe this one is for you ;)
I’ve never even thought of trying to compress the second I dyno to make it easier to stay on the wall… INSANE.
Great video as always. Thank you
Future Ozzie? Always great to “relearn” and instill right skills. If we don’t check in our form periodically, I think we’re apt to develop bad habits like the 3 mentioned. Now it’s Fran in my mind I’ll look for them when climbing. 🙏🤘
What is up with the auto correct? 😆 How did “Fran” come “fresh”? 🤣
You have a great point there! You’d want to avoid building bad habits because it gets more difficult to unlearn them in the future. Thanks for sharing Jon! This gives me a great idea for a future video!
Very informative video! You aced it.. AGAIN. Have always been kind of scared of doing dynamic moves due to my fear of falling.. but will keep working on it. I realized that it can help me improve so much in climbing, also because I am petite. LOL. Looking forward for more of your videos Oswaldo. Wish we can meet you in person once the borders open. :)) It will be such an honor.
As a petite climber who prefers to static everything I feel this 😅 I'm trying to work on actually making the big moves that I have to do on nearly every route.
wow that was really detailed and informative. I rly like ur teaching style! will try to keep these pointers in mind when I head for the gym tmr :)
So cool that you're living in Vegas now. Origin is my home gym so you gotta start cranking out videos sooner so I can work these same problems ;) I think they just redid this wall so this problem is already down. I'm an overweight novice climber that can't climb V6, could it would be neat get on the same problem and try your techniques to get better.
These are the videos I like. We need more like this
Glad you like these! More to come!
Yesssss my kinda video, sheeeeEeeesh 😭👏
god I wanna do this boulder now, this looks so much fun and it forces a teaching moment
It was a great climb and glad I could share a lot from it!
Super helpful!! Thanks
Mad Rock Drones for the win! 👌
Yes!
You are an amazing human
Thank you!
More this kind of videos!
More on the works!
Did you buy ur shirt from Costco ?? The orange one , looks like mine lol
Really informative, could you kindly advice not to hit your knee into the wall while doing the dynamic moves? There was a occasion that I smash my knee into a jug and I had to call off the session straight away haha
ouch! I won’t lie.. it’s happened to me too before lol and it hurts! Some holds/volumes do get in the way and you just have to position yourself in a way to avoid hitting your knee. hope you’re ok now!
Man i just got 2 flappers from trying dyno-ey moves :( any tips on how to avoid them or what im doing wrong?
Keeping weight on other feet or hands you don't have to lose if they remain in range will save the brunt of the weight and shearing force off of those few poor cm² of skin. Of you're already doing that, keeping flappers and callouses in check by trimming and shaving will keep them from becoming a node that invites more shearing forces!
7:48 Good shhh :)
What's with the circle on 4:33?
Oops! That shouldn’t be there. That one got away!
@@rockentry guess there's no secret giveaway button ;)
First
Could not start watching due to mask on the face.. will not watch any other videos. Take it off for fk sake!
Yeess I needed this! I have a problem with pushing out with my feet whenever there’s a dynamic move… 😅
Yeah! I used to have a problem of pulling more with my hands and forget about my feet. Feet need love too hehehe