@rockentry Could you do a segment where you show how to help beginners getting off their butts when doing bouldering problems/climbs with seated starts? And exercises that heavier climbers can use to build up the hand strength required for a stable grip? Thanks!
climb v4 outside and begin projecting v7 indoors! not *really* about the grade so much as feeling a step up in technique and power. i'm hitting the weight room and finally committing to a hangboard/campus routine.
Started the year with a big goal of climbing the mega crimpy 5.13c at my home crag (currently at 12.c). Immediately got some bad luck and tweaked a pulley 😢 hoping to get back on track in the next few weeks and be back into some real training
Hello Oswaldo I'm a french climber and I really enjoy by your channel. Your videos are very well done. I'm mainly a crag climber and I am trying to follow your advice. Thank you for everything and go on like this. Eric
One tip that really helped me with heel hooks is to turn the foot outward like away from the wall. Of course the specific problem will dictate the optimal foot placement for a heel hook, but often turning the foot so toes are pointing outward/away from the wall really helps.
I’ve been incorporating a lot of heel hooks lately. I find them to be extremely helpful if done right. My goal for this year is to climb climb climb. As much outdoors as possible. Also to work mostly on climbing technique as I find this to be the most important part of climbing.
I like the explanations, thanks for the video. My goal for 2020 is to climb harder and better and stop avoiding large sloper holds. Happy new year to all of you.
Thank you for your videos, keep up the good work. Most instructive, on a variety of subjects. Appreciate that. As for my goals in 2020: get from 6b to 6b+ (V4 to V4½ or possibly V5). Just started reading your book, impressive life story. Respect.
Happy New Year. Nice reinforcements and thank you as always. Small nuance with heels is subtle angle of toes? For climbers not use to using a lot, it’s not just about placement and pulling in, but also the angle of toe otherwise the heel may lose friction or efficient tension/stability. I use them a lot and by coincidence used them in so many climbs today. 😁
I’ve noticed that there are different ways to place the heel onto the hold in the first place - the frontal vs side versions. Possible to elaborate more on that? Thanks for the awesome videos as always! 🙂
Happy new year everyone. Thanks Oswaldo for all the great stuff you shared. In one year I went from v2 to v6. I'm so happy and you helped a lot I got a question for you or everyone : I cannot toe hook. I think my shoes are too small because it hurts soooo much my toe joints. Has any of you felt the same ? and can I fix it without buying new shoes ? cheers everyone! PS: Go for those double digit!!
Woah! V2 to V6 way to go! Makes me so happy to be part of your progress. If your toes hurt when you’re toe hooking it could be your shoes... do they have rubber at the top? If they don’t then that could be it. which shoes are they? Or it just could be the fact that your shoes are too tight/small for you, unfortunately. Sometimes I do tape up my toes and it’s helped. Hope this helps!
@@rockentry thanks for the reply. My shoes are the vapor V from scarpa. When I put my foot in a shoe, my toes become like a triangle. The joints are the only thing touching the upper shoe. And yes, it has rubber on the top! Cheers brother
Hi Stu, the book is a memoir, but here are the chapter titles: 1) Analytical Thinking, 2) The Flow State, 3) Grit, 4) Climbing Outdoors, 5) Intricacies, 6) Failure, 7) UA-cam, 8) Visualization, 9) Mindfulness, and 10) Parting Thoughts. You can also request a sample from the website listed in the description or from Amazon directly.
I tried using that first type of hold on an v2 overhang. My arms were pumped so it became an unplanned fall and my foot almost got wedged in. Nearly snapped my ankle that day. I'm a beginner and yeah...that was really poor technique on my part. I only realized how bad it was until I fell. I was able to send it with a beta that a far more experienced climber suggested.
Happy New Year! Did you place Santa Claus in the middle of the video on purpose? Right after you explain the toe-heel jam on the right side of the screen.
Oswaldo its about those hips thoxDgood shit man ber siked bout that pink move.ps you should try and make it to my area sometime we have a great gym here.would be super sick to get a session in.
Great tutorial, but you're omitting to warn how strenuous heel hooking is, that it require a progressive practice with slowly increasing tension and twisting motion of the knee. Improper use (too much too fast) would be counterproductive, i.e. resulting in injury preventing the climber from using this boulder crusher strategy when not used in respect with physical capabilities of the beginner/intermediate climber Peace ;)
hey Joakim! at which point would you be creating a twisting motion of the knee when heel hooking? "twisting motion of the knee" sounds a lot more like a drop knee. Cheers!
Any point in the heel hook. Look at the picture at 00:02, the toes are pointing outwards; that a twist of the knee (and that’s the opposite movement as in a drop knee - toes go ‘inwards’). Except that in a heel hoop, there is ‘tension’ on the knee (contraction of hamstrings) as opposed to compression of the knee (contraction of quads) during a drop knee. Rotation and tension of the knee is a winner combo for tearing ligaments and damaging meniscus if excessive force is applied, or on unused climber body. Cheers
@@joakimgenin8433 His knee is inline with this toes. I'd argue that this is more of an external hip rotation as oppossed to an external knee rotation. To me to appears his femur, knee, tibia and toes are all pointing the same direction (maybe with a slight rotation of the knee). Now if you don't have this type of hip flexibility it could result in having to twist the knee to get into this kind of position but that's not what hes doing at 00:02
Hello, i like what u show in this video. However, those heel hokes are for really low level climber. Have u some tips for hard and technical heel hooks like on crimps in overhang wall? Thank u guy
Hello man, thank you for your videos, it's very inspiring ! I was wondering what type of diet do you have, because maybe it helps to progress, depending on what we eat ? Or maybe you don't pay attention to that, which would be good news in a way ;)
@rockentry you know when you go for a hold and you get pushed off the wall but use your core and arms to get back on the wall (see at 0:06 - 0:07 of this video) is there a way to prevent that or is it normal? When/Why does this happen? It seems pretty common, but uses lots of energy. PS. Foot-Heel Jam (head explodes!)
A mandatory warning: I'm a very casual beginner What if it happens 1+ meter higher and your right foot slips, and you fall. Would you be able to quickly remove your hooked left foot from the hold? Is it not dangerous to place it like that?
It can be dangerous, but his hands and feet looked really solid. After you climb long enough you begin to subconsciously calculate your odds of success for each move by feeling out the situation as you progress through a problem or route. Injury is always a possibility, so self-awareness is very critical in climbing.
3:48 "I create a toe heel jam and what this does is... " Ozzie, what it does is it breaks your ankle if your hand slips! I get that one has to commit to hard moves, but you don't need that kind of dangerous technique there.
Fails to actually explain how to heelhook properly. There was a massive difference between the first one and the other two. Who can spot it? And who can explain it?
Hello friends, I want to know your goals for this year! List them below and what actions are you taking to achieve them? Let's do this!
@rockentry Could you do a segment where you show how to help beginners getting off their butts when doing bouldering problems/climbs with seated starts?
And exercises that heavier climbers can use to build up the hand strength required for a stable grip? Thanks!
climb v4 outside and begin projecting v7 indoors! not *really* about the grade so much as feeling a step up in technique and power. i'm hitting the weight room and finally committing to a hangboard/campus routine.
Started the year with a big goal of climbing the mega crimpy 5.13c at my home crag (currently at 12.c). Immediately got some bad luck and tweaked a pulley 😢 hoping to get back on track in the next few weeks and be back into some real training
Can we all take a second to appreicate how high quality and practical this is. You're the best 🤙🤙
Much love laura!
+1
My favorite climbing channel😍😍😍
bite-size and practical, obsessed
does the guy in the background chalk his beard?
I chalk my beard :)
Another concise, informative video. You are at the V14-level (Video Rating Scale)...at least!
Hello Oswaldo
I'm a french climber and I really enjoy by your channel. Your videos are very well done.
I'm mainly a crag climber and I am trying to follow your advice.
Thank you for everything and go on like this.
Eric
Just started bouldering and climbing. 4th session already and I'm learning a lot from this channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
You channel deserves more attention. Love the detail tutorials.
Thank you!
One tip that really helped me with heel hooks is to turn the foot outward like away from the wall. Of course the specific problem will dictate the optimal foot placement for a heel hook, but often turning the foot so toes are pointing outward/away from the wall really helps.
I like how you also show the typical mistakes people make, it really helps me to hear the reason behind these things
You got me hooked on your content! thanks bro
I love your climbing tips videos! I like how you focus on details and comparisons of bad and good solutions really help :)
This is extremely important for me right now. Your video archive is a goldmine of important information 🤗
Superb video
I gained a lot of clarity on heel hooks
I’ve been incorporating a lot of heel hooks lately. I find them to be extremely helpful if done right. My goal for this year is to climb climb climb. As much outdoors as possible. Also to work mostly on climbing technique as I find this to be the most important part of climbing.
I like the explanations, thanks for the video.
My goal for 2020 is to climb harder and better and stop avoiding large sloper holds.
Happy new year to all of you.
This is so helpful!! Locking in has been a harder concept for me- the way you explained and demonstrated...thank you
Thanks. This helps me to work on my heel hooks!
Excellent videos! I learn a lot from them. Right now I'm working on footwork so that I don't change it after placing my feet on a hold.
Thank you for your videos, keep up the good work. Most instructive, on a variety of subjects. Appreciate that.
As for my goals in 2020: get from 6b to 6b+ (V4 to V4½ or possibly V5). Just started reading your book, impressive life story. Respect.
Love the book bro!
Really glad you loved it! Thank you!
My 2020 goal was to climb my first outdoor 7a boulder, I climbed my first 6c yesterday and my first 7a today!! Guess I need another goal!!
Congratulations on the book!
Thank you!
I love nerding out on heel hooks and tweaks.
Happy new year to you too!
Happy New Year. Nice reinforcements and thank you as always. Small nuance with heels is subtle angle of toes? For climbers not use to using a lot, it’s not just about placement and pulling in, but also the angle of toe otherwise the heel may lose friction or efficient tension/stability. I use them a lot and by coincidence used them in so many climbs today. 😁
As always, nice vid and very well explained techniques!
I was wondering, how high are those walls in your gym?
Thank you!
The walls at this gym are about 17ft high.
I love your work. Happy new year.
Happy new year!
Spot on as always. Great video 💪
Thank you!
Perfect timing! I just got new shoes (Sportiva Solutions) to try out heel hooking more!
I’ve noticed that there are different ways to place the heel onto the hold in the first place - the frontal vs side versions. Possible to elaborate more on that? Thanks for the awesome videos as always! 🙂
Would be interesting to see a video about high heel hooks on small holds in an overhanging terrain like we see in most of the competitions nowadays
Thanx a lot for your guides!
My pleasure!
Amazing stuff like always, thanks mate :)
Always gives me power before climbing!
Thanks for the video, super informative and entertaining.
Happy new year bro 😉👍. Thanks for the tips they helped me a lot
Your videos are great man, also climb at LAB and CoI too, always hope to run into you at the gym one day aha
Happy new year everyone.
Thanks Oswaldo for all the great stuff you shared. In one year I went from v2 to v6. I'm so happy and you helped a lot
I got a question for you or everyone : I cannot toe hook. I think my shoes are too small because it hurts soooo much my toe joints. Has any of you felt the same ? and can I fix it without buying new shoes ? cheers everyone!
PS: Go for those double digit!!
Woah! V2 to V6 way to go! Makes me so happy to be part of your progress.
If your toes hurt when you’re toe hooking it could be your shoes... do they have rubber at the top? If they don’t then that could be it. which shoes are they? Or it just could be the fact that your shoes are too tight/small for you, unfortunately.
Sometimes I do tape up my toes and it’s helped.
Hope this helps!
@@rockentry thanks for the reply. My shoes are the vapor V from scarpa. When I put my foot in a shoe, my toes become like a triangle. The joints are the only thing touching the upper shoe. And yes, it has rubber on the top! Cheers brother
Great video. Show us a little bit what's inside your book.
Hi Stu, the book is a memoir, but here are the chapter titles: 1) Analytical Thinking, 2) The Flow State, 3) Grit, 4) Climbing Outdoors, 5) Intricacies, 6) Failure, 7) UA-cam, 8) Visualization, 9) Mindfulness, and 10) Parting Thoughts. You can also request a sample from the website listed in the description or from Amazon directly.
@@williamha8679 Thanks. I was thinking Rockentry would benefit by showing a bit of that in the video.
@@sktubis that's very true!
I tried using that first type of hold on an v2 overhang. My arms were pumped so it became an unplanned fall and my foot almost got wedged in. Nearly snapped my ankle that day. I'm a beginner and yeah...that was really poor technique on my part. I only realized how bad it was until I fell. I was able to send it with a beta that a far more experienced climber suggested.
Happy New Year!
Did you place Santa Claus in the middle of the video on purpose? Right after you explain the toe-heel jam on the right side of the screen.
The crux in Spanish version please!!! 😁😁🤙🤙Fantastic video, thanks!!!
Amazing video
Glad you think so!
Oswaldo its about those hips thoxDgood shit man ber siked bout that pink move.ps you should try and make it to my area sometime we have a great gym here.would be super sick to get a session in.
Great tutorial, but you're omitting to warn how strenuous heel hooking is, that it require a progressive practice with slowly increasing tension and twisting motion of the knee.
Improper use (too much too fast) would be counterproductive, i.e. resulting in injury preventing the climber from using this boulder crusher strategy when not used in respect with physical capabilities of the beginner/intermediate climber
Peace ;)
hey Joakim! at which point would you be creating a twisting motion of the knee when heel hooking? "twisting motion of the knee" sounds a lot more like a drop knee. Cheers!
Any point in the heel hook. Look at the picture at 00:02, the toes are pointing outwards; that a twist of the knee (and that’s the opposite movement as in a drop knee - toes go ‘inwards’). Except that in a heel hoop, there is ‘tension’ on the knee (contraction of hamstrings) as opposed to compression of the knee (contraction of quads) during a drop knee. Rotation and tension of the knee is a winner combo for tearing ligaments and damaging meniscus if excessive force is applied, or on unused climber body. Cheers
@@joakimgenin8433 Makes a lot of sense, thanks for clarifying!
@@joakimgenin8433 His knee is inline with this toes. I'd argue that this is more of an external hip rotation as oppossed to an external knee rotation. To me to appears his femur, knee, tibia and toes are all pointing the same direction (maybe with a slight rotation of the knee). Now if you don't have this type of hip flexibility it could result in having to twist the knee to get into this kind of position but that's not what hes doing at 00:02
@@Robyoutube1327 I think what Joakim means is that the force applied to the hook is orthogonal to the plain created by the bented leg.
great video! thank you :)
Glad you liked it!
my goal is doing my first 7b this year i m climbing for a bit longer than 1 year now so i should be able to do it this year
My goal is to climb a few v4s this year!
What pants are those? They look very flexible and comfy!
Hello, i like what u show in this video. However, those heel hokes are for really low level climber. Have u some tips for hard and technical heel hooks like on crimps in overhang wall?
Thank u guy
Hello man, thank you for your videos, it's very inspiring ! I was wondering what type of diet do you have, because maybe it helps to progress, depending on what we eat ? Or maybe you don't pay attention to that, which would be good news in a way ;)
instant click :) good start in the year
Thanks for being here early!
Heel hook king!! :)
What's the name of song which come out at the beginning? I want to know exactly this version please. Happy new year~
@rockentry you know when you go for a hold and you get pushed off the wall but use your core and arms to get back on the wall (see at 0:06 - 0:07 of this video) is there a way to prevent that or is it normal? When/Why does this happen? It seems pretty common, but uses lots of energy.
PS. Foot-Heel Jam (head explodes!)
Front row!
Yes!
Should your toe always be pressing against the wall during the heel hook?
A mandatory warning: I'm a very casual beginner
What if it happens 1+ meter higher and your right foot slips, and you fall. Would you be able to quickly remove your hooked left foot from the hold? Is it not dangerous to place it like that?
It can be dangerous, but his hands and feet looked really solid. After you climb long enough you begin to subconsciously calculate your odds of success for each move by feeling out the situation as you progress through a problem or route. Injury is always a possibility, so self-awareness is very critical in climbing.
3:48 "I create a toe heel jam and what this does is... " Ozzie, what it does is it breaks your ankle if your hand slips! I get that one has to commit to hard moves, but you don't need that kind of dangerous technique there.
Oof seeing these heel hooks makes my leg and hip hurt, was wondering if you/anyone can share their experiences in order to avoid injury?
Guy at 3:57 has a santa claus beard
3:40 I call this a toe/heel cam
I think the best way is to find some way to do not heel hook it is very stupid i always fall on it
what does Crux mean when climbing?
Simply put it’s the most difficult or technical move in a climb
hey wait a minute where's the part where you blow your opponent's knee out? lol
haha wrong sport!
@@gxyxy1012 lol
3:58 dude rocking a blonde beard
Fails to actually explain how to heelhook properly. There was a massive difference between the first one and the other two. Who can spot it? And who can explain it?
This is not a heel hook