Range Rover P38 Immobilizer Bypass with Hacked ECU
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- Опубліковано 16 тра 2016
- This is how I bypassed my Range Rover P38 with a faulty Immobilizer Module. The ECU is running in the stand alone mode. Please contact me for details on how to re-mobilize your P38 if you are having Immobilizer issues!
- Фільми й анімація
Thank you so much ,,,,I was having such a hard time ,,,everyone should know this hack
I have a similar problem in the same car. The code I saw was
P1842 and a p1843. Symptoms with the car are crank no start, no spark, no current to the injector with the
key on ignition and no injector pulse when cranking. I have checked all the fuse and relays in the power center but everything seems really nice aside from the ABS relay that I
felt is hot to the touch after cranking. Please sir help me on what I should do on this case. Thank you sir.
Also, you are looking at a Chevy V-8 from 1964. ( well, Buick). Think of it as an aluminum block small-block 283, that has been sleeved. You should be able to install a manifold, and carburetor from a 1964-5 Buick, which was even offered turbo-charged. A four-barrel Rochester and an HEI Distributor would reduce the making it run to fixing a 1960's Chevy.
Well, I wish it were that easy. I have swapped out the intake manifold on my 3.9L Rover V8, which is in a '94 Disco, but these 4.0L and 4.2 L engines are harder to retrofit an ignition system into. As you mention, going back to a carb is no problem, but the crankshaft position timing wheel has an odd number of teeth, from standard domestic V8s. So, you have to order a special unit in from England, and pull the engine to install it. It might interest you to know that I am swapping that 3.9L Rover engine (with original distributor and electronic ignition) into my Mercedes 460 G Wagen for more power. As you know, the Rover s are excellent, light V8's, and can be turned for a lot of compact power!
Ubate referring to the 4.6 liter right? It definitely resembles and performs like a gm v8 so I believe u. Thanks for this tip now I know which direction to go to get the full power out this power plant
To the guy making the video, you could jump the trigger-wire under the switches you are manually jumping, to the actual trigger-wire from your ignition switch, you might have to jump power to the power-supply side of the switch, ( This is where I would disable a system at the ECU to produce a theft prevention feature), just jump a wire from whatever lights up the dash-lights. Or, get cheap Chinese remote control relays from China, they give you four buttons to push, you could use two of them to achieve what your finger is doing under the hood. I think these are going to be classics, and the price is low now, it's scrapping the ECU that needs to happen, and I am currently swapping coil springs into my air-bagged 1996 HSE. Maybe I will post a video of how I end up doing this. I started by purchasing a suspension from a Discovery, I may bolt the front lower spring-perch to the air-bag perch, after I disassemble it. This seems like the simple adapter. A second option is to fill the air-bags with leak-sealer and block off the air inlet, just make it permanent. A third option would be to use the coil-over struts from a Land-Cruiser ( 2005 or so), it is only 4-inches in diameter and bolts into the front shock area. The rear springs are easy, replace the lower perch with the Disco gear.
Same situation, here, where did you get these 2 relays: #15, #16 ? Please explain your term, "Pick the relay" Do you mean "Squeeze" or is there an external tab on each of these relays ?
Regards,
Paul in Pennsylvania
Thank you so much for this video
hello, top as a solution! 👌 does it work if the vehicle is blocked by the alarm? and where do we find this box?
This sounds like an original issue with the transponder chip and a simple key replacement along with it's programming to resolve the issue. My saviour is the Silca SBB V33.02 (Don't get an older Version!) Without this tool, and some new Transponder chips from China I could not fix certain cars (I am backyard mechanic, saving money by not transferring vehicles & paying crazy taxes, so I could not goto dealer and buy a new key ($90 to $1000 for Mercedes.)) Some ignition like the 2008 Cobalt I had to program a New transponder and place that inside the coil that surrounds the ignition (Just use an extra coil from junkyard, plug it in, and hide it under dash with Transponder chip glued or taped into it. I had to install a used ignition from a junkyard buddy (Free! I had to go get it out but it was free!) Program key FOB for the door (Most cars only need a working key to program FOB so that comes after it starts!) (Note:*** Must have specific transponder chip & Key FOB)
It cost $120.00 Canadian for the SBB programmer (Lucky to get it through customs.) Purchas blank keys with Transponder chips for $2.00 and it's good to have transponder chips for certain models. The 2004 Honda Accord with reprogrammed key from junkyard but Not with the 2006 Cobalt So SBB automatically erases all previous keys in the ECU We Programmed a blank key with New transponder, put that under dash and all was good! Of course replacing the ignition was essential and UA-cam videos help simplify the process. Oh and the Ford Focus if you have to change the key, Just rip the old steering column out as well as the ECM and get one from cheap junkyard and you are good to go. Likely can buy a whole Focus for $100 on kijiji in Canada as they rot out and have had many engine issues (So many in junkyards).
Point being, and sorry to leave such a long comment but I don't see how this helps anyone, who wants to pay $1000 to British programmer, Had you offered the techniques of how to program our own EEPROM with this update and the update itself So we can get rid of Immobilizer altogether...
Still an Interesting video and 2 thumbs and a Like for the effort and especially anything on the Land Rover is worthy of that to me.
Thanks
Hi it’s me again, I got some questions to ask because mine is getting a stand alone ecu on mine and I would like to ask how did you make it start normally without opening the hood and picking relays
Hi I have situation simular to yours, I bought a 96 range rover. Fob has been broken but I have the key, it has been immobilized as well. Your saying inevitable the fobs go bad?
Yes, the battery in the Fob will eventually need to be replaced. It is no problem is you have a Land Rover Dealer nearby, but it is still expensive. I live about 200 miles from the nearest Service Center, so I had to go with the Hacked ECU approach. It is super easy to replace the module, and then you have to splice two or three wires under the passenger's seat, but it functions perfectly, and I use it as a daily driver. By the way, the Hacked Chipsets are really only about $700 on eBay, if you want to pop the ECU cover and replace them yourself.
Question. Could this work on a 2004. And also. Is this only with a hacked system.
Well I just went through this a couple hours ago. I dont know if its a fluke or what but all I did was disconnect the battery and then pulled all the relays and fuses that had anything marked with an engine on the diagram. Reinstalled them. Then I reconnected the battery and it started up. I started it over and over again. Perhaps the system had a fart, giving me a heads up that it's gonna take a dump soon, or just needed to be reset or something. Who the hell knows but i was thankful to make it home.
You are lucky, but it is great that you are rolling again! Just keep the faith.
@@bostonmountain Yes. I assume its a fluke but like I said.....very thankful.
just stumbled on your post- pls help!; is this how the faulty Immobilizer Module would behave: all board lights on, outside lights blinking, engine won't start- all out of the blue??? could it be one of the maxi fuses?- and why is the car's manual mention that owner should not attempt to change these fuses? I would appreciate any suggestions; thx
Sorry that it took me so long to respond. LoL! I just found your comment notification... yes, it sounds like it could be an Immobilizer Fault. You can tell, because it will be displayed on your dash as "Engine Disabled", if that is what the ECU mode is indicating.
thank you- got it fixed same day; was Immobilizer Module indeed (used my remote to lock and the key to unlock which confused the system)
Thanks...
But one trick is on a super lock failure... is to resync. the key like this and only this: a) press the lock button on the key fob before inserting in the door lock, b) hold the lock button on the key fob down while inserting the key in the lock, c) while holding the lock button down on the key fob rotate the key to lock (clockwise toward back of car), d) stop at the lock position keeping the lock button pressed down on the key fob, e) count three (3) seconds off while keeping the key lock button down and the tumbler rotated fully to lock (clockwise position toward back of car), f) turn key to central (vertical) position while keeping key lock button pressed , g) remove the key from the lock keeping lock button pressed on the key, and h) release the lock button on the key. Voila, it should be synced and released from super lock !
Keep your
Key battery fresh, and just as importantly keep the main car battery above 90% reserve capacity, and fully charged. If the cars' battery when tested shows less than 90% reserve at any time, replace with the recommended size battery (ya I know its an excavator, tractor or semi battery and is heavy, costly and has short warranty... but if you are dumb enough to love the car you gotta pay that price. Going to a smaller battery no matter how high tech or what the warrantee is a sure fire way of asking for security / locking failures, ABS failures, and EAS failures. If you let the car sit for a few days without running often you will have problems due battery reserve capacity... if you put on a battery tender remember it NEEDS at LEAST 8 amp output as that is the basic load these cars put on the battery, particularly if the locks are going locko wacko.
So this now 13 year long fight against my own car is possible to end, but I got 5 of good use before it totally went locko wacko and with the other assorted issues with EAS, and ABS system problems. Love the car, hate the lock / security system. Range Rovers lose value like a falling stone... and the door lock / security system starts acting up a about year 5... basically it is worth so little after the first 5 years a junk Nissan Sentra has more valve to steal... so only a fool would steal one. So why do we need the exotic "security system".
Oh well, Rovers always been like this I had a 1961 station wagon 88 and got it stuck in the Minnesota woods by the river right at beginning of winter. It stayed there until spring and only was rescued a few days before it was washed away by the river flooding.
A final comment on the ABS brakes, bleed every year to flush the system. Replace the accumulator every 5 years (they slowly leak charge and the that's the design life), and MOST importantly replace the brake booster/masters' PLASTIC RESERVOIR every 5 years (it has a filter you cannot clean in an inaccessible place any crud or old fluid with cause the pump cavitation and /or fill your valuable and delicate ABS system with crud ), and replace the PUMP electrical RELAY every 5 years (70 amps of electrical arc every time your system pump runs! Why is ANY crud or moisture contaminated brake fluid will ruin system components costing about (currently at dealer prices) $12,000.00 for the brake electro-hydraulics. These are VITAL if you want a reliable long lasting brake system. Unfortunately, the 1997-2002 (last one produced 2001) range rovers somehow ended up with a NON failsafe braking/traction control system. The only one I know of, and it should have been a recall issue. Actually the later rover p38 was the first integrated braking/traction control system. ALL other braking / traction control or ABS brakes made FAILSAFE allowing you to proceed literally forever if the system fails but with the brakes working without the non-skid feature. Those Rovers do NOT fail safe and the brakes will totally disappear one day, with you stopping if you are lucky with the handbrake or unlucky in someones living room or ramming a car in front of you or sliding off a cliff... .
Here is the official, operation description of the locks:
Slam locking: Slam locking is only available on vehicles up to
96.5MY. Slam locking is performed by depressing
either of the front door sill buttons with the door open
and then closing the door. All the doors and the tail
door will CDL lock and the alarm will be armed in
perimetric mode with cranking disabled and
immobilisation activated. If the vehicle is slam locked
with the key in the ignition or the ignition on, all doors
will immediately unlock when the door is closed.
Key CDL locking: A single turn of the key in the driver’s door lock
towards the rear of the vehicle will cause all the doors
including the tail door to CDL lock. The alarm system
will enter perimetric mode with cranking disabled and
immobilisation active. Remote CDL locking A single press of the lock button on the remote handset will cause all the doors including the tail door
to CDL lock. The alarm system will enter perimetric
mode with cranking disabled and immobilisation
active.
Key superlocking: A double turn of the key within two seconds in the
driver’s door lock towards the rear of the vehicle will
cause all the doors including the tail door to superlock
providing that they and the bonnet are closed. The
alarm system will enter perimetric mode with cranking
disabled and immobilisation active.
Remote superlocking: A double press of the lock button within two seconds
on the remote handset will cause all the doors
including the tail door to superlock providing that they
and the bonnet are closed. The alarm system will
have crank disable and immobilisation active and if all
windows and sunroof are closed the volumetric and
perimetric systems will be activated. If any of the
windows or the sunroof are open, then only the
perimetric system will be activated. Remote
superlocking is prevented if the key is in the ignition.
Lazy Locking: The lazy locking procedure will close all open
windows and the sunroof when locking the vehicle.
Lazy locking is initiated by holding the key turned to
the lock position or holding the locking button on the
remote handset pressed for more than one second.
The windows close simultaneously, followed by the
sunroof after the last window has closed. In some markets, the key must be held in the lock position or the remote handset lock button held
depressed until all windows and the sunroof are
closed. If the button is released prematurely, the
windows and sunroof will stop and a mislock will
sound.
Mislock: A mislock is indicated by two short ’beeps’ from the
alarm sounder or by three short flashes of the
courtesy lamps depending on the market
programmed. In some markets there is no audible or
visual mislock warning. The mislock warning will not
operate if the ignition is in position I or II. The message centre in the instrument pack will display the cause of the mislock, i.e. ’RHF DOOR
OPEN’. The message will be cancelled when the
cause of the mislock has been rectified.
Auto Relock: When a valid unlock request is received from the
remote handset and all windows are closed, the
ultrasonic sensor is activated for a period of 60
seconds or until movement is detected or:
- a door is opened or closed
- the tail door is opened
- the key is inserted in the ignition
- the ignition is turned to position I
- the vehicle is re-locked with the key or the remote
handset. If, after 60 seconds, none of the above has occurred,
the vehicle will relock to its previous locked condition.
Good morning, I have the same problem with a discovery, I reset the unit, making the contact of two relays the machine side, Peo I still flashing arrows and sounds :-( mica can you tell me what I have yet to pass bay?
I thank you in advance Nicola
Yes, the Discos are a little different. I would refer you to the guys/gals at www.V8engines.com. They are experts with the various Land Rover engine configurations.
I ve been having issue with the becm not sync to the ecu immo,
when becm is not happy it just wont give me a ride : (,
how to contact u for further instruction on bypass the immo?
Well, as you know, the Sync Problems are very difficult to diagnose without the Land Rover $20K diagnostic computer. What I did was order an "Unlocked ECU" from www.v8engines.com/ Talk to Ian. He will sell you the "hacked" & unlocked ECU module. All you do is plug the module in and the engine will start as I demonstrate by picking relay 15 to energize the electricals, and the start the engine with relay 16. After I shot this video, I had to trace the coil wires back from relay 15 and 16 back to the BeCM module connectors and bypass them around the module. The Rover operates normally at this point.
The key-fob battery must be replaced in less than 15-seconds, or you will have to re-code it. The instructions I saw said to press the lock button until it rapidly blinks, then lock the door. Do the same to un-lock. Now, it will be coded to the lock. Next, a four digit code should be in your users manual, perhaps under radio code. Turn lock four times to unlock, then finish code to the right, 2345 would be two turns, pause, 3 turns, pause, etc, and it will make noises as you do this. Bingo, it all works. If you have the code. 9 U.S. model 1996 P-38 4.6 HSE)
My P38 V8 4,6 has a similar issue, battery goes flat within 2-3 days standing, I took it our, recharged and now the doors lock, central locking wont open, and if I use manual key the alarm goes off. Disconnect battery it goes off. Tries key reset using left right formula written in service book, but still nothing, Any ideas welcome.
Pete, yes that is exactly what happened to me. You can Google Search all of the various solutions to resync the ECU and BECM units, but none of them worked for me (defective Immobilizer Module). All you will probably really need is the Chip Set to rechip your ECU. I had the guys/gals at www.v8engines.com provide me with an entire ECU that had already been rechipped, but you can do it yourself and save the extra money. Unless you can make your ECU operate in the "Stand Alone Mode", it will never let your engine start... sad to say.
Hi im hoping you can help me i have a 1997 LR RR 4.0SE V8 & it used to run great until one day the battery was dead i got a jump & it started then my cousin turns it off & it has never started again i even bought a brand new battery it cranks but will not kick over & theres no fuel coming from the fuel line & the fuel pump is not turning on also the inertia switch doesnt do anything the message displays that the windows arent set, the sunroof aint set but they work fine & also it says transfer neutral. Can you please help me? Thank you
Cleoa, thanks for your question. It sure sounds to me like your Immobilizer System has been triggered... just like mine did. The fuel pump will be disabled, the engine will crank, but the ignition and fuel injection system are immobilized. If you can get your Rover to a dealer, they will be able to reset your system for you. I am so far from a dealer, that I had to have my ECU hacked in England. Sadly, those are the only two options that I really know will work 100%. It is time to call your nearest dealer.
Very nice work!
Hi, first, sorry for the English, I'm using google translator. ;)
I have a P38 1996, I do not have remote control, I use only the key on the door. The alarm has tripped and is immobilized. Last year I had a problem and I had to change the BECM / ECU because the nanocom locked the BECM module and could no longer access it. Trouble has been detected in the door lock. Today I was informed that this lock is ok, but Eka does not unlock the module, continues message "Engine Disable". I would like to know if you can pass me some info, links, etc. of how to unlock the ecu (hack), or else if you could make the change for me. Thanks for any info and for sharing this video. ;-)
Thanks for your question. I am sorry that you are having the same problem that I had with my Rover. Yes, I would not hesitate to contact these guys in England. They can sell you either a hacked ECU, or you can buy the chip-set ICs and "unlock" your original ECU module. There are three or four wires that you will need to bypass, under the seat on the BECM connectors, so you don't have to open the bonnet and pick the two relays to start your Rover. Here is their link: www.v8engines.com/
See my comment about solving the problem... above involving resync. of the key .
Hi. I know you posted this a while ago but I hope you will still get this message. My 2000 Range Rover 4.6 had a new engine put into it but I do not know what syncing was done to it. When I try to start the car, the starter turns slowly and then stops and when I try again, it does the same thing. Is the cause that the engine is immobilized or the BECM not synced? I don't think I see a message saying that the engine is disabled but I tried to connect a wire from the starter to the chasis in case of grounding issues and the starter didn't turn at all. My last question concerns the key. I have one key that needs a battery but I am scared that changing the battery will cause the engine to immobilize if I try to use it. How should I go about this? Thanks.
I do not believe that your Immobilizer is the issue. When the Immobilizer triggers, it will display a message on your dash, and the horn will start blaring, etc.. It sounds to me more like your starter has failed... perhaps the brushes are not making good contact with the commutator, etc.. As far as P38 starter issues are concerned, twice, through the years, I have had to crawl under the beast and recrimp the Starter Relay Wire, where it attaches to the starter. (Wow, is it hard to reach, on the top side of the starter solenoid.) It is very bad about getting water in that spade-connector, and developing excessive resistance. So be sure to check that first, before pulling the starter. Arthur, yes, you are wise to worry about changing the battery on your key fob. It is a tricky procedure, and there are good videos, here on UA-cam that describe the process. If you mess up on that battery swap, it is an expensive service call from the Land Rover dealership. (In my case it is over 200 miles to the nearest dealership, hence the DIY approach in this video. www.rangerovers.net is the best place to Google for precise answers, IMHO. Thanks.
Thank you sooo much for your reply.
I have one more question if you don't mind. I would like to try and jump the starter to see if it works before taking it off the engine. Do you think the engine would immobilize or something would go wrong if I did this with the key in the ignition and the starter disconnected from the wiring harness? Thanks.
I don't see a problem with your approach. The Immobilizer is usually triggered when it thinks someone is trying to break into your vehicle (or the Immobilizer module fails, like in my case.) The Immobilizer won't care what you are doing, as long as you are not working on the Immobilizer System, itself.
Thanks. I will let you know what happens.
Yes, It sounds like the Immobilizer has triggered. There are a lot of posts about how you might go about resetting your unit. However, I made the mistake of changing the battery in my Key Fob, thinking that was the problem! LoL... bit mistake. So, after six months of messing around with every other approach, I just purchased the hacked (unlocked is the term they prefer) ECU from the company mentioned. It works perfectly now. With that said, I need to mention that you would need to bypass the two relays that I talked about in the video... RL15 & RL16. You can simply solder two jumper wires, at the front of the BeCM module under the passenger’s seat (American version). Let me know if you need those instructions and I will post them. It is very simple.
Can you help my p38is stuck in key code lock out. Got it off my dad amd no codes
Can you show how to solder the two jumper wires under the becm thanks
So did you have to flash the new ecm to the vehicle my p38 just did this
No flashing required . Just plug-and-play with the ECU hacked/chipped. I never looked back, Robert. However, my next step is pulling the fuel injection, like I've done on my other P38 and Discovery, and swapping-in a carburetor and a standard CDI ignition. With what's coming, you'll want Total Reliability, and that ECU will smoke when Putin lights us up, imho. LoL! #BeUnstoppable
My relays are plastic covered with no external tabs whatsoever. Do you know where your relays originated from ? What model year is your P38 Range Rover. Help !!!
he has the plastic cover taken off the relay, those two he squeezes have covers removed
Good video but i have a slightly different problem in that my '96 P38 4L starts and runs fine, but at the same time the siren blares and the door locks chatter, the direction indicators stop working, the windows go up and down, sometimes the harzards come on and the dashboard gauges malfunction. So, if I drive it, it looks like the carnival arriving. Any ideas please?
Yes, the problem sounds like a BECM module failure. If the unit (under the passenger seat) ever gets wet, it will fail in the manner you describe. You can find them used on eBay, or there are guys who can repair yours for about $500 USD.
OK thanks for that. Worse news than I thought! Yes the whole inside of the vehicle has got regularly wet from what i think is the roof seams leaking. I disconnected the siren (4 wire) yesterday to stop the noise and it at the moment it's still running and driving fine. I will see how it is when it has another spasm and the door locks etc start chattering.
If you can put a fan in the floorboard and let it run while you are not driving it, the BECM module may fully recover. Those modules are notorious for malfunctioning in wet weather.
@@bostonmountain Yes, I'll try that and I'll see if I can get the trim off the roof as well and fix the leaks up there.
This is likely just a bad wire or a short somewhere and likely a bad ground from the Battery to the body or the connections to the body control module in your case, or the the ecm, look for lumps in wires, bad connections, Switch relays with others of the same number within your Power Control Center and check for issues at the relays with a meter and a light when these conditions are happening. a test light goes a long ways in these cases as well as knowing which pins control what in the Relay slot. You need to find out if the issue if before the relay or after it to eliminate stuff. This more or less sounds like the harness to a module has rubbed against the body, bared a wire and is shorting itself out. It is nice to have a junkyard to get a few cheap parts so you have some test units in the event it is a body control module or something but without a Programmer you cant just go swapping out parts that are mated to the car, but you can check the wiring and connections and do tests of voltages to see if they are there and if they are flashing in sync to the locks and stuff as you suggest.. You can wiggle and shake wires to see if that changes it's pattern to find the short....
great job!..hey i have a 2010 LR2 HSE, new batter and starter, and my immbolizer is triggered.
They say i need a EKA 4 digit code, where and how do i find one? i bot the car used. i use the code by turning the door key left and right in sequence, or is there another way to bypass the immbolizer???? please help!!!
You Rover is much newer than the older P39 chassis. I would call my nearest dealer and they can probably look up your code. Thanks!
@@bostonmountain with my vin???
@@mml1224 Yes, they'll need your VIN, and a way to confirm that you are the new owner.
@@bostonmountain i wonder wat thy wld nede2 confirm ownership or if i need to b there in person w title at dealership
@@mml1224 they can look up the registration I'm sure or if you have the registration and the title would be all you need
Wow!
You are not bypassing the immobiliser. You are only turning the vehicle on and starting , which would happen if you turn your key ....the main issue here that would be very helpful is if you showed us how to start it from the ecu that has immobiliser on or how to hack the ecu and unlock the ecu😊
i have a 2006 range rover sport i can not fine the immobilizer and do you think i can bypass it.
Any luck bro, im having the same issue
Good 👍
👌
I have a P38 (Bosch), I lost the key, I Can't use my P38 in 3 years :-( .... I need Help
Very sorry to hear about your Range Rover problem. Since yours is a Bosch System, I do not believe that this GEMS hack will work for you. The best bet is to call your nearest dealer. They can program a new key for you. Thanks!
Hi. Just a question: What direction are p38 engines supposed to turn?
If you are facing the front of the engine, it turns clockwise.
Thanks. It is turning correctly but does not make full revolutions and I don't think think the problem is the starter ground or the starter.
Arthur, that may not be a good sign... if the engine only rotates through part of the engine cycle, something mechanical may be "jamming". You mentioned that it is a new engine (to your Rover) and I wonder if it was, indeed, a running engine when installed. I have actually installed a replacement engine before, only to find that it had several pre-existing mechanical problems. Do you know for certain that the new engine was running properly when donated to your Rover?
Yes. It ran while in the crate before it was put in the bay.
Understood, and that is good news!
👍
Was your key on the whole time
Yes, key on the whole time. However when the Immobilizer is triggered no power is applied to the coil on Relay 15, so the fuel and ignition system remain inactive. It has to be reconfigured to operate directly from the key switch down at the BECM.
Do you still start it like this
No, it starts and runs normally. I was just demoing it for the video. Transmission also operates normally. Thanks!
If it's immobilized will you always see an error...no error ..dash not turning on was working fine til we disconnected battery :(
Yes, once you disconnect the battery, the Rover will go into hard lock-down.
@@bostonmountain okay mine isn't turning on but nothing on dash...
I know the vid is 6 years old if you still have the car show us how it turns on
How do I get to these guys ?!
Here is a direct link to their online store. They know what to do. www.v8engines.com/
will it shift into reverse?
Yes, the Range Rover P38 runs & drives perfectly. There are no issues with the transmission, etc.. The ONLY thing that I have not attempted to fix, is the slowly-blinking LED on the dash. It still indicates that the vehicle is in Theft Mode, but it doesn't affect anything else, so I will probably just leave it.
Dear Victorian Machine
Kindly advise who can supply the hacked stand alone ECU
Cannot pick it up in previous threads
Much appreciated
Locksmith hold my beer um gonna hack this shit😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
Bring my xprog
These things are a nightmare
Does anyone know where the ews is located on a 1999 Range Rover?
ua-cam.com/video/USMpkJRq15U/v-deo.html
The song name
The song was off of a royalty-free Chill House compilation album from several years ago. I'll see if I can locate it again. Thanks Range Rover Man 11!
Hi brother
I need the guy info From British
Здравствуйте; как с вами связаться
Я переезжаю, и пока у меня нет точной контактной информации. Спасибо!
We have created a Range Rover P38 group on FaceBook, WHAT another one i hear you say? Well we set out to try and do something a little different and that is to do things right.! Gone are the wannabe armchair engineers and the trolls that seem to hinder most groups and in will be an admin team that consist of guys who knwo what they are on about and can navigate their way around RAVE to come up with solutions to problems. Its a very fresh group, and its very early days, but with your help we will get there, and not only are we looking for new members, we are looking for experienced guys to join the admin team and help build the group. We can be found here.... facebook.com/groups/925014894688556/
Thanks John. I just sent you a FB request to join.
@@bostonmountain You are welcome, see you there :o)
British hacker? Rofl, remote access is hacking? Cool didn't know I'm am one
Same situation, here, where did you get these 2 relays: #15, #16 ? Please explain your term, "Pick the relay" Do you mean "Squeeze" or is there an external tab on each of these relays ?
Regards,
Paul in Pennsylvania
Paul, relay #15 and #16 are just the normal Ignition System relays. If you 'pick' (hold down the contactor blade) on relay #15, it provides power to the ignition system, and #16 actuates the starter motor. However, unless you have a new chip-set (EPROM memory integrated circuits) in the ECU, it won't work. Sadly, the chip-set are selling for about $700 on eBay, which is pretty expensive. I know of no other real option for reactivating a disabled ECU, and I've tried everything short of taking it to a dealer. (My nearest dealer is about 200 miles away.)