MK7 to MK8 PCV Install How-To, and Amazon/Epman Turbo Inlet Pipe initial review
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- www.datadrivenmqb.com
datadrivenmqb
MK8 Full Retrofit Install Specifics:
• MK8 PCV Venturi (Full ...
MK8 Basic vs Full Retrofit:
• MK8 PCV Basic vs Full ...
*CONFIRMED: Aftermarket turbo inlet pipes can cause problems*
• Confirmed: Turbo Inlet...
Why I think TIPs may cause PCV problems:
• MK7/MK8 PCV Updates: A...
MK8 Retrofit feedback and MK7/8 PCV tech talk:
• MK8 PCV Retrofit UPDAT...
Basic Retrofit Parts List:
+ 06K-103-210-D (PCV hose) vw.oempartsonline.com/oem-par...
+ 06Q-103-495-B (PCV valve) vw.oempartsonline.com/oem-par...
+ 06M-906-094 (bung, looks like price has gone up about $10 since I last purchased) vw.oempartsonline.com/oem-par...
+ Dorman 47395 (3/8 Vacuum cap - not required if doing Full Retrofit) www.amazon.com/Dorman-47395-H...
Additional Parts needed for Full Retrofit that I used:
+ 034 Turbo muffler delete: itsnotstock.com/034motorsport...
+ 90 degree 1/8npt to 3/8 barb fitting: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
+ 1/8npt extensions: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B...
Jeff's TIP/PCV vacuum testing on a flowbench: mygolfmk7.com/2024/01/mk7-tip...
Epman Turbo Inlet Pipe (can't really recommend it, watch at 15:47 why): www.amazon.com/dp/B08H2CLBGC
Capri 10mm thin wrench mentioned, very useful for OEM coil pack studs: www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-Su...
Inexpensive hose pick tool set: www.amazon.com/VASTOOLS-Remov...
0:00 Intro
0:46 Parts needed
1:31 Install sensor bung
2:02 Remove intake tube
2:38 Attempt to remove PCV hose
3:42 Disconnect coil packs
4:22 Dealing with a broken connector
4:54 Unbolt coils 3 and 4
5:25 Tip for OEM coil studs
5:52 Remove coil packs 3 and 4
6:20 Remove PCV hose w/ TIP
6:50 Separate PCV hose from valve
7:44 Fail at snaking PCV hose out
8:44 Separating a stubborn PCV hose from TIP
9:23 Hose is removed
9:41 MK7 valve removal starts
9:55 N80 purge valve out of the way
11:01 Unbolt old PCV valve
11:57 Clean and inspect after removal
13:22 Install MK8 PCV valve
14:03 Caution: Do not overtorque
15:47 Epman TIP initial impressions/quality review
20:13 N80 purge valve reinstalled
21:53 TIP install
23:26 Note if doing a Full Retrofit
24:39 Install Tiguan PCV hose
25:41 Reinstall coil packs
26:29 Reinstall intake tube
27:19 Final once-over
28:52 Final words
29:13 Preview of testing to come
#gti #mk7 #mk8 #vw #pcv #golfr #datadrivenmqb
Good one! I had to remove the metal turbo hardline near the HPFP to snake that OE hose out when I did this.
Yeah that's one advantage of the Tiguan hose... it isn't so dumb and bulky... haha.
I want to do the full retrofit to see how it works on a daily/drag car. Only problem is I have a titanium intake tube with an AN fitting for the APR catch can system. So the factory fitting with the venturi connection won't fit. I wonder if an AN fitting with a gauge port would fit. They are only 1/8" though, I wonder of that is enough? I'd have to weld a bung to the turbo outlet pipe as well since I don't have a factory turbo anymore.
Buy a bunch of the knock offs for 45, fix them up, and sell them for 125. lol
Also a tip for the coil connector or any of that style really, sliding a 90 degree pick between the coil and the connector lifts the tab and then pushing on the pick slides the connector off. After I broke one of my tabs, I found that trick.
Also, I installed my venturi setup. I’m going to give it some Miles and report back.
Because of the GT2263, I didn’t have a good place to pickup a boost source so I used a silicone barb adapter and installed it into an APR silicone turbo to boost pipe elbow. It worked well other than the fact that the APR elbow is a POS.
UA-cam really needs a laugh react. Definitely let me know how it goes! I've been testing a few things I'll be going over once a little more detail is gathered, but essentially the Venturi is the only way to go IMO.
What do you think of the use of venturi/ tiguan hose on the stock mk7 pcv with a BMS TIP style? I didn't notice if you talked about it in your videos. Thanks for all your provided data. You are doing a great job guys!
The MK7 and MK8 valves have a different hose connection at the PCV itself and are not compatible.
The MK8 valve itself is only $65, whereas MK7 valves are all $120+. I've torn a bunch of valves down previously... the MK7 valve diaphragms are considerably more flimsy and lack a self-centering peg in the middle that I think makes the MK8 valve more robust for handling the additional vacuum levels. Considering you'd need to hack up a $130 hose to even attempt to fit it to the MK7 valve, I can't imagine it being worth attempting given how inexpensive the MK8 valve itself is.
I didn't explicitly say it, but the reinforced diaphragm is called out in the diagram at this timestamp of the original video:
ua-cam.com/video/jYdF-sOLe3I/v-deo.htmlsi=c1SRZHIlZkD1FCrW&t=409
@@datadrivenmqb ty for the reply! ;)
That’s crazy how cheap the valve is but the hose is double. Great vid by the way. I’ll be doing the full kit on my 2015
Yeah it kind of sucks, but the hose at least "should" be a one-time purchase. The valve itself is cheap enough I bought an extra just to have a spare at the track in case I ever do encounter any issues.
how’s your car run now with this kit? any problems?
I have been watching your videos for a bit and now that you have tested for a while I wanted your opinion & benefits of going with the MK8 PCV & Tiguan hose? I have a 2016 Golf R Stage 2 & I autocross in the summer and the odd track day. I went to an autocross day this past weekend with full oil came back and it was at the low end of the dip stick when I checked it the next day. Not sure how im burning all this oil but I figure it may be related to the PCV Valve yet I replaced it last year.
Thanks
Any time when trying to solve a problem I’d recommend a leakdown and compression test to verify engine physical health first. The only thing this won’t catch is bad valve seals (which seem to be somewhat common). If they’re OK then it’s likely the MK8 PCV full retrofit could help. If they’re not “that” bad it’s possible a plate may mask the symptoms and “work” until it doesn’t.
FWIW I looked at an APR plate and went over some general recommendations here:
ua-cam.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/v-deo.html&si=pnJqTSZnw1cbEzBJ
22:40 "BALLS!" lol
Quick question, what’s the best way to do a pressure boost leak test after installing the full pcv retrofit with the Venturi, now that the pcv is also connected to the turbo muffler delete.
Just unplug the Venturi hose and cap it. If you’re doing a boost leak test you should be doing it after the TIP so the PCV hose won’t be a factor at that point. Just need to cap the boost line. I just slip a bolt in and clamp it when I am testing things in “basic” retrofit form FWIW.
For the full retrofit, can you extend the pipe and go direct from the intake manifold instead of the chargepipe?
The idea is that you need a source of boost, but not a source of vacuum. So anywhere pre-throttle body should be useable. Technically you could tap the manifold *IF* you install an in-line check valve that only flows under boost, but seals under vacuum. I'd advise against it only because it adds yet one more complex thing.
The 034 TMD is by far the "easy button" and what I'd recommend if possible. Otherwise tapping a charge pipe is the way to go IMO. @JordieG8 recently did this and might be able to show you how he did it.
Looks like a EPMAN might be making them for ECS or CTS, not APR since they press not thread on the piece for the pcs hose.
Good catch. Regardless it still seems to be the closest match to an APR TIP, based off the inlet/outlet dimensions, and especially in the way it has the little standoff where it mounts to the turbo. If I ever find someone local with an APR TIP I'll be sure to get them side by side to be 100% sure.
Regardless I don't think any TIPs are particularly any better than others (for overall flow). Stock is likely going to be best for the PCV system if not running the Venturi. As far as aftermarket goes, aside from a few weird ones that have a step right before it enters the turbo (CTS V2), I don't think there are any notable differences otherwise.
how important is that harness clip snapped onto the hose at 10:25, snapped mine trying to remove the hose. Didnt know that purge valve can be removed like that for easier access
Shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure stuff isn't rubbing/chafing and I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
Could you do a how to with the full retrofit video with the 034 tmd?
If someone locally does the full retrofit install, I'll be sure to do so. Thanks!
Awesome info !
I have a 2021 se , that I’m getting a weird occasional jerk when letting off the gas at low rpm’s.
I’m thinking of doing this basic retrofit, do you think it’ll be worth the try ?
Thanks! But the PCV is probably not related to your issue.
I have a 2021 S and have this happen sporadically. I’d love to get to the bottom of it. My thought was the diverter valve (wild guess).
@@Florida_Boi_321
I’ve noticed that with a full tank the issue doesn’t happen. Once the gas starts to go down it happens worse and worse.
So do I need to do the full conversion? Or running the hose bung will be okay? Does the mk7 already have a hose going to the throttle pipe? Or was that added
Depends on your needs/driving. Track and autocross is far more demanding. Few people have actual problems on the street. www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv
Quick question.. your vids are a few months old but hopefully you respond. I recently bought a cts catch can kit for my golf R. My pcv was more likely toast at 130,000km.. anyways at idle i feel like its throwing off my crank case pressure and causes a rough idle until my car gets warmed up. The kit i got has a venturi valve included. Its a metal 1 way check valve. However there is nothing online about it. I feel like they included it as a retrofit. Only im not sure where it could be used.. as there is no information. It looks like it could connect to the pvc plate and the smaller vacume hose on the left. Pcv vacume control modual thing. (Not sure what its called). It looks like the desiged it to fit inline with like a 1/4 inch hose. And thats the only hose for the system that makes sense to me. The inline valve selenoid thing has a air flow arrow on the side of it. Does the air flow through that 1/4 hose on the left and vacumes towards the pcv valve? And do you think installing this venturi valve there would make a difference on that inlet line?
That valve is not a Venturi valve, but a one way check valve to make sure that you're not sending boost pressure into the fuel tank. Look at the APR PCV video at the 35 sec mark here:
ua-cam.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/v-deo.html
Flow should be allowed from the tank into the barb on the plate. That is likely causing some of the running issues, but even with the plate system installed there will be some weird things noticed. There are dozens of tables dedicated to modeling how much crankcase gasses are being ingested at a given time, etc. I noticed the start-stop function got real weird if I enabled it... the car would stumble when starting and not be happy. Back to an OEM PCV and it's fine. Not that that is "necessary"... but there is a LOT more going on in the ECU to make driveability right than people realize.
@@datadrivenmqb thanks for the reply. Ive been digging around alot the last 24 hours. I guess thats a line for gas vapors to run into the system from the tank. It would make no difference. Maybe the part was included by accident.. and i just double checked my system this afternoon. Once i get my cobb accessport later this week i will be able to keep an eye on my air fuel ratio to see whats going on, on that end. By winter i will prob revert back to the old system. I also might order a new 02 sensor aswell and see if it helps any. I have new plugs and new injectors with about 20,000km at best on them. And did a walnut blast in the fall of the intake ports. Im just trying to find actual answers and your the best on this topic online that ive found so far.lol
Would this be the exact same if I have a 2018 s3 8v & upgrading an 8y s3 pcv valve?
I'm almost positive the 8Y S3 is the same valve as the MK8 Golf R.
Details/parts list at www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv
Can you add the fittings on the Tmd without taking it out of the car
Yeah, if you use both of the 1/8 npt extensions there's enough clearance.
Coming in late to the party here, How are these holding up in the 40psi range on larger turbo setups?
Not sure about 40, but there are several people running 33-36psi on big turbos (though none on track just yet). I've blasted 120psi of shop air through the Venturi several times when bench testing and it hasn't had any issues for what it's worth.
@@datadrivenmqb That's good info, Thank you. I am running 40psi on a large turbo / Built motor.
@@kurtkennedy5370 yeah I'm not sure what the practical limit of a MK8/Venturi PCV setup is on the street, I imagine that limit will be found at the track first.
Once so much blowby is being generated that it's moving more volume through the block passage and is taking oil with it is what will be the determining factor. *Generally speaking* built engines will have more blowby and would be more likely to have issues first. I'd be surprised if it's a problem on the street up to 550-600ish hp though.
Hello. Will this work on the 1.8 tsi engine in the base Golf as well?
Yes, @karstgeo7290 has done the full retrofit on my IS38 1.8 Alltrack.
@@datadrivenmqbthx for the quick reply. Mine has a noticeable increase in knock at the end of a long commute (52 miles one way daily) with normal driving.
What hose did you use for 034 inlet to Tiguan ?
It's the hose that comes with the Tiguan hose.
www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv
Ok cool. I ordered all the parts. It’s for my 2015 gti. I’m confused on the bl and ah codes. Hopefully your link for the mk8 valve works for 2015?
@@user-ut1zy2qc7r BL and AH are different revisions of old MK7 PCV valves.
Shouldn't be any issues with retrofitting the MK8 parts in the link to a 2015.