Yeah it kind of sucks, but the hose at least "should" be a one-time purchase. The valve itself is cheap enough I bought an extra just to have a spare at the track in case I ever do encounter any issues.
Buy a bunch of the knock offs for 45, fix them up, and sell them for 125. lol Also a tip for the coil connector or any of that style really, sliding a 90 degree pick between the coil and the connector lifts the tab and then pushing on the pick slides the connector off. After I broke one of my tabs, I found that trick. Also, I installed my venturi setup. I’m going to give it some Miles and report back. Because of the GT2263, I didn’t have a good place to pickup a boost source so I used a silicone barb adapter and installed it into an APR silicone turbo to boost pipe elbow. It worked well other than the fact that the APR elbow is a POS.
UA-cam really needs a laugh react. Definitely let me know how it goes! I've been testing a few things I'll be going over once a little more detail is gathered, but essentially the Venturi is the only way to go IMO.
What do you think of the use of venturi/ tiguan hose on the stock mk7 pcv with a BMS TIP style? I didn't notice if you talked about it in your videos. Thanks for all your provided data. You are doing a great job guys!
The MK7 and MK8 valves have a different hose connection at the PCV itself and are not compatible. The MK8 valve itself is only $65, whereas MK7 valves are all $120+. I've torn a bunch of valves down previously... the MK7 valve diaphragms are considerably more flimsy and lack a self-centering peg in the middle that I think makes the MK8 valve more robust for handling the additional vacuum levels. Considering you'd need to hack up a $130 hose to even attempt to fit it to the MK7 valve, I can't imagine it being worth attempting given how inexpensive the MK8 valve itself is. I didn't explicitly say it, but the reinforced diaphragm is called out in the diagram at this timestamp of the original video: ua-cam.com/video/jYdF-sOLe3I/v-deo.htmlsi=c1SRZHIlZkD1FCrW&t=409
how important is that harness clip snapped onto the hose at 10:25, snapped mine trying to remove the hose. Didnt know that purge valve can be removed like that for easier access
I want to do the full retrofit to see how it works on a daily/drag car. Only problem is I have a titanium intake tube with an AN fitting for the APR catch can system. So the factory fitting with the venturi connection won't fit. I wonder if an AN fitting with a gauge port would fit. They are only 1/8" though, I wonder of that is enough? I'd have to weld a bung to the turbo outlet pipe as well since I don't have a factory turbo anymore.
The idea is that you need a source of boost, but not a source of vacuum. So anywhere pre-throttle body should be useable. Technically you could tap the manifold *IF* you install an in-line check valve that only flows under boost, but seals under vacuum. I'd advise against it only because it adds yet one more complex thing. The 034 TMD is by far the "easy button" and what I'd recommend if possible. Otherwise tapping a charge pipe is the way to go IMO. @JordieG8 recently did this and might be able to show you how he did it.
Good catch. Regardless it still seems to be the closest match to an APR TIP, based off the inlet/outlet dimensions, and especially in the way it has the little standoff where it mounts to the turbo. If I ever find someone local with an APR TIP I'll be sure to get them side by side to be 100% sure. Regardless I don't think any TIPs are particularly any better than others (for overall flow). Stock is likely going to be best for the PCV system if not running the Venturi. As far as aftermarket goes, aside from a few weird ones that have a step right before it enters the turbo (CTS V2), I don't think there are any notable differences otherwise.
I got a vacuum leak code about 3 days post install (not the full retro with the venturi). Checked everything, it all looks sealed. No idea what to test next
Oh also! At 9:14, removing the tube from the TIP....if you remove the 2 coolant line mount bolts from the engine, you can slip the tube out (with TIP still attached)
I'd make sure the seal didn't get rolled over when installing the PCV valve. Also ensure the N80 valve was installed correctly, nothing cracked on the PCV itself, etc. What is the specific DTC and full description from VCDS/OBD11?
Quick question.. your vids are a few months old but hopefully you respond. I recently bought a cts catch can kit for my golf R. My pcv was more likely toast at 130,000km.. anyways at idle i feel like its throwing off my crank case pressure and causes a rough idle until my car gets warmed up. The kit i got has a venturi valve included. Its a metal 1 way check valve. However there is nothing online about it. I feel like they included it as a retrofit. Only im not sure where it could be used.. as there is no information. It looks like it could connect to the pvc plate and the smaller vacume hose on the left. Pcv vacume control modual thing. (Not sure what its called). It looks like the desiged it to fit inline with like a 1/4 inch hose. And thats the only hose for the system that makes sense to me. The inline valve selenoid thing has a air flow arrow on the side of it. Does the air flow through that 1/4 hose on the left and vacumes towards the pcv valve? And do you think installing this venturi valve there would make a difference on that inlet line?
That valve is not a Venturi valve, but a one way check valve to make sure that you're not sending boost pressure into the fuel tank. Look at the APR PCV video at the 35 sec mark here: ua-cam.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/v-deo.html Flow should be allowed from the tank into the barb on the plate. That is likely causing some of the running issues, but even with the plate system installed there will be some weird things noticed. There are dozens of tables dedicated to modeling how much crankcase gasses are being ingested at a given time, etc. I noticed the start-stop function got real weird if I enabled it... the car would stumble when starting and not be happy. Back to an OEM PCV and it's fine. Not that that is "necessary"... but there is a LOT more going on in the ECU to make driveability right than people realize.
@@datadrivenmqb thanks for the reply. Ive been digging around alot the last 24 hours. I guess thats a line for gas vapors to run into the system from the tank. It would make no difference. Maybe the part was included by accident.. and i just double checked my system this afternoon. Once i get my cobb accessport later this week i will be able to keep an eye on my air fuel ratio to see whats going on, on that end. By winter i will prob revert back to the old system. I also might order a new 02 sensor aswell and see if it helps any. I have new plugs and new injectors with about 20,000km at best on them. And did a walnut blast in the fall of the intake ports. Im just trying to find actual answers and your the best on this topic online that ive found so far.lol
Subscribed! Good content on your channel! Please tell, is the Mk8 pcv better at pcv'ing than the Mk 7? Also, on the mk7r, the front of the pcv has what looks like a scoop compared to the gti pcv. not sure why? The again, Hengst is a good product!
For the N80 purge valve reinstall around minute 20, have you had any issues since install when driving around? Mine I could only wiggle on most of the way and that's with using a grease to even try and help fit onto. After a day or two of driving it's split right down the center and needing replacement.
Awesome info ! I have a 2021 se , that I’m getting a weird occasional jerk when letting off the gas at low rpm’s. I’m thinking of doing this basic retrofit, do you think it’ll be worth the try ?
Having recently acquired my fist VW, a '19 Tiguan SE 4Motion( APR tune, Racingline TIP and hose, and ECS cat back), and having read a lot about the various PCV issues these apparantly have, I'm wondering if this MK8 retrofit would be beneficial on the Tiguans too? Thanks!
If it were a stock car then I'd say keep the factory PCV unless/until problems occur. But based on my research, aftermarket turbo inlet pipes essentially break the factory PCV's ability to function - in which case the MK8 full retrofit is indeed beneficial as it provides a vacuum source that aftermarket TIPs lack. Check out this video for more info on that: ua-cam.com/video/Pjcpla__riY/v-deo.html Just putting the MK8 valve on without the 034 TMD/Venturi is essentially a lateral move and doesn't have any major benefits (aside from the ability to eventually add the additional parts to function correctly). FWIW I ran the VIN of a random 2019 Tiguan, it has the same PCV valve as my 19 GTI had from the factory (BK revision) so I wouldn't expect any issues performing the retrofit.
@@datadrivenmqb Thanks for the quick reply! Based on several of your videos on the subject I has assumed that even if it didn’t help, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to do the update. I have watched the video you linked and I’m hoping you can clarify something. My first thought was of course, “great, that was a waste of $$.” But then as I watched further, and this is where some clarification would help, my understanding was that aftermarket TIPs didn’t really “break the factory PCV” until WOT. Am I misunderstanding what you were saying? I don’t and have no intention of tracking the car, and even though the additional power from the APR tune is really nice, I don’t think I’ve gone much past half throttle running up to highway speeds on an on-ramp. Based on your reply I do plan on ordering all the parts this weekend, but I was thinking of holding off on the muffler delete short term, just to break up the costs a bit(to keep my wife happy). But if you think that even with the moderate way I drive the car I should just bite the bullet and get the muffler delete right away I have no problem doing that too. Thanks again. This is my first VW(spent 35 years as a tech hating these things LOL), but since inheriting the car from my mom who passed in January, I’ve come to love the car and what to keep it for a good long while since it’s got less than 30K on it.
@@datadrivenmqb on a side note, this may be the first legitimate case where a muffler delete actually has any benefit, with the majority just being manufacturer hype.
Aftermarket TIPs do have a noticeable effect on part throttle gentle acceleration (watch from this timestamp for a few min: ua-cam.com/video/Pjcpla__riY/v-deo.htmlsi=Frz_D3LwisgaXX4g&t=1356 ), though in daily driving use it's not something that will show up with an actual symptom like smoking. Over time, the longer/more frequent positive pressure events on the crankcase might be more potential to cause leaks from places like the timing cover, oil cap, or cam cradle, etc. but that would require some OEM levels of testing to confirm and correlate the cause. People HAVE been throwing aftermarket TIPs on these cars for years now without "problems"... but I do wonder with how frequent that the above mentioned leaks occur on theEA888.3, how many of those people are/were running aftermarket TIPs. You're not in any danger or anything if you DON'T add the muffler delete right away, but I wouldn't bother with the retrofit at all if you have no intentions of ever adding it. Based on the effects I've observed by changing turbo inlet pipes, the stock TIP would be best to put back on until the Venturi is hooked up, but as mentioned above the differences between them crankcase-pressure-wise really won't be able to be noticed by the end user. Power-wise when I was IS20 there was no noticeable difference in power between stock and aftermarket TIPs also FWIW. If it were MY daily driver Tiguan, I'd honestly just leave the stock TIP on and not change anything at all PCV-wise unless there's an actual problem with it. The APR tune is torque-based so no matter what you do to the car intake/exhaust-wise, it's going to make the same amount of power - the aftermarket TIP isn't doing anything except maybe giving you another 2-3% WGDC improvement. And that's really only realized at WOT. I think the MK8 system is a great PCV system, but the honest truth is it isn't necessary in cases like yours and I'd hate to tell you that you "should" spend money on something that won't really return any tangible value. BUT if you're dead set on keeping the TIP, and want to retrofit it just because you like to tinker (which I can totally relate to... if you haven't noticed), then the full retrofit is the way in my personal opinion. Also sorry to hear about your mom 😢
For track use, it's probably the "safer" bet. If you find the can filling up excessively fast - I think that may point towards having crankcase seal leaks (or you have a TIP that pulls way too much vacuum - basically if you go for a plate system then something like the BMS TIP is more ideal since there's no diaphragm to regulate the vacuum down). Just fitted my crankcase sensor and PCV sensor on a full retrofitted 2015 GTI that still smoked (even with the modified valve)... we found very low vacuum readings on both, and confirmed a leaking rear main seal. Plan is to fix everything leaking (also had leaking timing cover, though far less severe) and then fit the sensors to his car again and measure the improvement to see if it ends up closer to what my 2019 GTI reads or not.
@@datadrivenmqb my car has a newly rebuilt short block and hadn't had any issues. The other day we did a few hard pulls / stops back to back testing brakes and we had the smoke show. Thought I had blown it up. But it had not other issues, smoke stopped and it has been fine and hasn't done it again with normal driving in addition to some pulls... everything is normal -no noises, makes same power etc. Car is G25-660 with forged rods/pistons. So figuring it's this issue since its a 15'. It's a daily driver but I don't want to go through a retrofit only to find it didn't fix it so looking for a permanent solution. This car could see autoX duty as well. Is the APR the best plate system or are their others equally good - or better values. At $700+ it's not really an inexpensive "catch can" like we run on LS setups. Appreciate your feedback!
@@dexterracingful honestly there are no guarantees regardless of what you run - engine condition and how "tight" the crankcase is (piston rings, all seals that oil touches - everything) will be what determines degree of success. PCV plates appear to be far more tolerant of less than perfect conditions, and *should* solve any large smoking issues. Conversely I know of several people who switched from various plate systems to MK8 retrofits and they claim it runs better. I'm hesitant to say that anyone "should" run the MK8 valve on any kind of built engines or big turbos... people have done so successfully but if there's one thing that's clear this entire learning experience has been a clusterfuck trying to pick up all the pieces of the jigsaw puzzle. FWIW in my opinion the APR is worth the premium over the others on the market. I am intrigued/interested in the 034 kit due to the return to sump setup as well, but the APR is the only thing I've physically tested.
I have been watching your videos for a bit and now that you have tested for a while I wanted your opinion & benefits of going with the MK8 PCV & Tiguan hose? I have a 2016 Golf R Stage 2 & I autocross in the summer and the odd track day. I went to an autocross day this past weekend with full oil came back and it was at the low end of the dip stick when I checked it the next day. Not sure how im burning all this oil but I figure it may be related to the PCV Valve yet I replaced it last year. Thanks
Any time when trying to solve a problem I’d recommend a leakdown and compression test to verify engine physical health first. The only thing this won’t catch is bad valve seals (which seem to be somewhat common). If they’re OK then it’s likely the MK8 PCV full retrofit could help. If they’re not “that” bad it’s possible a plate may mask the symptoms and “work” until it doesn’t. FWIW I looked at an APR plate and went over some general recommendations here: ua-cam.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/v-deo.html&si=pnJqTSZnw1cbEzBJ
Not sure about 40, but there are several people running 33-36psi on big turbos (though none on track just yet). I've blasted 120psi of shop air through the Venturi several times when bench testing and it hasn't had any issues for what it's worth.
@@kurtkennedy5370 yeah I'm not sure what the practical limit of a MK8/Venturi PCV setup is on the street, I imagine that limit will be found at the track first. Once so much blowby is being generated that it's moving more volume through the block passage and is taking oil with it is what will be the determining factor. *Generally speaking* built engines will have more blowby and would be more likely to have issues first. I'd be surprised if it's a problem on the street up to 550-600ish hp though.
@@datadrivenmqbthx for the quick reply. Mine has a noticeable increase in knock at the end of a long commute (52 miles one way daily) with normal driving.
So do I need to do the full conversion? Or running the hose bung will be okay? Does the mk7 already have a hose going to the throttle pipe? Or was that added
@@DerekStocking BL and AH are different revisions of old MK7 PCV valves. Shouldn't be any issues with retrofitting the MK8 parts in the link to a 2015.
Quick question, what’s the best way to do a pressure boost leak test after installing the full pcv retrofit with the Venturi, now that the pcv is also connected to the turbo muffler delete.
Just unplug the Venturi hose and cap it. If you’re doing a boost leak test you should be doing it after the TIP so the PCV hose won’t be a factor at that point. Just need to cap the boost line. I just slip a bolt in and clamp it when I am testing things in “basic” retrofit form FWIW.
Ah sigh, will have to back order a mk8 pcv. The mk8 is still very new here. The Venturi Tiguan hose does not even show up on the fish at the agents. I will have to buy this from the Americas. Expensive piece of plastic pipe though.
Good one! I had to remove the metal turbo hardline near the HPFP to snake that OE hose out when I did this.
Yeah that's one advantage of the Tiguan hose... it isn't so dumb and bulky... haha.
That’s crazy how cheap the valve is but the hose is double. Great vid by the way. I’ll be doing the full kit on my 2015
Yeah it kind of sucks, but the hose at least "should" be a one-time purchase. The valve itself is cheap enough I bought an extra just to have a spare at the track in case I ever do encounter any issues.
how’s your car run now with this kit? any problems?
Buy a bunch of the knock offs for 45, fix them up, and sell them for 125. lol
Also a tip for the coil connector or any of that style really, sliding a 90 degree pick between the coil and the connector lifts the tab and then pushing on the pick slides the connector off. After I broke one of my tabs, I found that trick.
Also, I installed my venturi setup. I’m going to give it some Miles and report back.
Because of the GT2263, I didn’t have a good place to pickup a boost source so I used a silicone barb adapter and installed it into an APR silicone turbo to boost pipe elbow. It worked well other than the fact that the APR elbow is a POS.
UA-cam really needs a laugh react. Definitely let me know how it goes! I've been testing a few things I'll be going over once a little more detail is gathered, but essentially the Venturi is the only way to go IMO.
What do you think of the use of venturi/ tiguan hose on the stock mk7 pcv with a BMS TIP style? I didn't notice if you talked about it in your videos. Thanks for all your provided data. You are doing a great job guys!
The MK7 and MK8 valves have a different hose connection at the PCV itself and are not compatible.
The MK8 valve itself is only $65, whereas MK7 valves are all $120+. I've torn a bunch of valves down previously... the MK7 valve diaphragms are considerably more flimsy and lack a self-centering peg in the middle that I think makes the MK8 valve more robust for handling the additional vacuum levels. Considering you'd need to hack up a $130 hose to even attempt to fit it to the MK7 valve, I can't imagine it being worth attempting given how inexpensive the MK8 valve itself is.
I didn't explicitly say it, but the reinforced diaphragm is called out in the diagram at this timestamp of the original video:
ua-cam.com/video/jYdF-sOLe3I/v-deo.htmlsi=c1SRZHIlZkD1FCrW&t=409
@@datadrivenmqb ty for the reply! ;)
how important is that harness clip snapped onto the hose at 10:25, snapped mine trying to remove the hose. Didnt know that purge valve can be removed like that for easier access
Shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure stuff isn't rubbing/chafing and I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
I want to do the full retrofit to see how it works on a daily/drag car. Only problem is I have a titanium intake tube with an AN fitting for the APR catch can system. So the factory fitting with the venturi connection won't fit. I wonder if an AN fitting with a gauge port would fit. They are only 1/8" though, I wonder of that is enough? I'd have to weld a bung to the turbo outlet pipe as well since I don't have a factory turbo anymore.
Would this be the exact same if I have a 2018 s3 8v & upgrading an 8y s3 pcv valve?
I'm almost positive the 8Y S3 is the same valve as the MK8 Golf R.
Details/parts list at www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv
For the full retrofit, can you extend the pipe and go direct from the intake manifold instead of the chargepipe?
The idea is that you need a source of boost, but not a source of vacuum. So anywhere pre-throttle body should be useable. Technically you could tap the manifold *IF* you install an in-line check valve that only flows under boost, but seals under vacuum. I'd advise against it only because it adds yet one more complex thing.
The 034 TMD is by far the "easy button" and what I'd recommend if possible. Otherwise tapping a charge pipe is the way to go IMO. @JordieG8 recently did this and might be able to show you how he did it.
Looks like a EPMAN might be making them for ECS or CTS, not APR since they press not thread on the piece for the pcs hose.
Good catch. Regardless it still seems to be the closest match to an APR TIP, based off the inlet/outlet dimensions, and especially in the way it has the little standoff where it mounts to the turbo. If I ever find someone local with an APR TIP I'll be sure to get them side by side to be 100% sure.
Regardless I don't think any TIPs are particularly any better than others (for overall flow). Stock is likely going to be best for the PCV system if not running the Venturi. As far as aftermarket goes, aside from a few weird ones that have a step right before it enters the turbo (CTS V2), I don't think there are any notable differences otherwise.
I got a vacuum leak code about 3 days post install (not the full retro with the venturi). Checked everything, it all looks sealed. No idea what to test next
Oh also! At 9:14, removing the tube from the TIP....if you remove the 2 coolant line mount bolts from the engine, you can slip the tube out (with TIP still attached)
I'd make sure the seal didn't get rolled over when installing the PCV valve. Also ensure the N80 valve was installed correctly, nothing cracked on the PCV itself, etc. What is the specific DTC and full description from VCDS/OBD11?
22:40 "BALLS!" lol
Quick question.. your vids are a few months old but hopefully you respond. I recently bought a cts catch can kit for my golf R. My pcv was more likely toast at 130,000km.. anyways at idle i feel like its throwing off my crank case pressure and causes a rough idle until my car gets warmed up. The kit i got has a venturi valve included. Its a metal 1 way check valve. However there is nothing online about it. I feel like they included it as a retrofit. Only im not sure where it could be used.. as there is no information. It looks like it could connect to the pvc plate and the smaller vacume hose on the left. Pcv vacume control modual thing. (Not sure what its called). It looks like the desiged it to fit inline with like a 1/4 inch hose. And thats the only hose for the system that makes sense to me. The inline valve selenoid thing has a air flow arrow on the side of it. Does the air flow through that 1/4 hose on the left and vacumes towards the pcv valve? And do you think installing this venturi valve there would make a difference on that inlet line?
That valve is not a Venturi valve, but a one way check valve to make sure that you're not sending boost pressure into the fuel tank. Look at the APR PCV video at the 35 sec mark here:
ua-cam.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/v-deo.html
Flow should be allowed from the tank into the barb on the plate. That is likely causing some of the running issues, but even with the plate system installed there will be some weird things noticed. There are dozens of tables dedicated to modeling how much crankcase gasses are being ingested at a given time, etc. I noticed the start-stop function got real weird if I enabled it... the car would stumble when starting and not be happy. Back to an OEM PCV and it's fine. Not that that is "necessary"... but there is a LOT more going on in the ECU to make driveability right than people realize.
@@datadrivenmqb thanks for the reply. Ive been digging around alot the last 24 hours. I guess thats a line for gas vapors to run into the system from the tank. It would make no difference. Maybe the part was included by accident.. and i just double checked my system this afternoon. Once i get my cobb accessport later this week i will be able to keep an eye on my air fuel ratio to see whats going on, on that end. By winter i will prob revert back to the old system. I also might order a new 02 sensor aswell and see if it helps any. I have new plugs and new injectors with about 20,000km at best on them. And did a walnut blast in the fall of the intake ports. Im just trying to find actual answers and your the best on this topic online that ive found so far.lol
Subscribed! Good content on your channel! Please tell, is the Mk8 pcv better at pcv'ing than the Mk 7? Also, on the mk7r, the front of the pcv has what looks like a scoop compared to the gti pcv. not sure why? The again, Hengst is a good product!
I JUST released a new video going over current findings/trends yesterday where that is basically the topic:
ua-cam.com/video/cRznF5fx4rE/v-deo.html
For the N80 purge valve reinstall around minute 20, have you had any issues since install when driving around?
Mine I could only wiggle on most of the way and that's with using a grease to even try and help fit onto. After a day or two of driving it's split right down the center and needing replacement.
Nope, hasn't been an issue. Roughly 15k miles on it, with a bunch of track days, etc. Might just be your hose was more old/brittle?
Awesome info !
I have a 2021 se , that I’m getting a weird occasional jerk when letting off the gas at low rpm’s.
I’m thinking of doing this basic retrofit, do you think it’ll be worth the try ?
Thanks! But the PCV is probably not related to your issue.
I have a 2021 S and have this happen sporadically. I’d love to get to the bottom of it. My thought was the diverter valve (wild guess).
@@Florida_Boi_333
I’ve noticed that with a full tank the issue doesn’t happen. Once the gas starts to go down it happens worse and worse.
Could you do a how to with the full retrofit video with the 034 tmd?
If someone locally does the full retrofit install, I'll be sure to do so. Thanks!
Having recently acquired my fist VW, a '19 Tiguan SE 4Motion( APR tune, Racingline TIP and hose, and ECS cat back), and having read a lot about the various PCV issues these apparantly have, I'm wondering if this MK8 retrofit would be beneficial on the Tiguans too? Thanks!
If it were a stock car then I'd say keep the factory PCV unless/until problems occur. But based on my research, aftermarket turbo inlet pipes essentially break the factory PCV's ability to function - in which case the MK8 full retrofit is indeed beneficial as it provides a vacuum source that aftermarket TIPs lack. Check out this video for more info on that:
ua-cam.com/video/Pjcpla__riY/v-deo.html
Just putting the MK8 valve on without the 034 TMD/Venturi is essentially a lateral move and doesn't have any major benefits (aside from the ability to eventually add the additional parts to function correctly).
FWIW I ran the VIN of a random 2019 Tiguan, it has the same PCV valve as my 19 GTI had from the factory (BK revision) so I wouldn't expect any issues performing the retrofit.
@@datadrivenmqb Thanks for the quick reply! Based on several of your videos on the subject I has assumed that even if it didn’t help, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to do the update.
I have watched the video you linked and I’m hoping you can clarify something. My first thought was of course, “great, that was a waste of $$.” But then as I watched further, and this is where some clarification would help, my understanding was that aftermarket TIPs didn’t really “break the factory PCV” until WOT. Am I misunderstanding what you were saying? I don’t and have no intention of tracking the car, and even though the additional power from the APR tune is really nice, I don’t think I’ve gone much past half throttle running up to highway speeds on an on-ramp. Based on your reply I do plan on ordering all the parts this weekend, but I was thinking of holding off on the muffler delete short term, just to break up the costs a bit(to keep my wife happy). But if you think that even with the moderate way I drive the car I should just bite the bullet and get the muffler delete right away I have no problem doing that too. Thanks again. This is my first VW(spent 35 years as a tech hating these things LOL), but since inheriting the car from my mom who passed in January, I’ve come to love the car and what to keep it for a good long while since it’s got less than 30K on it.
@@datadrivenmqb on a side note, this may be the first legitimate case where a muffler delete actually has any benefit, with the majority just being manufacturer hype.
Aftermarket TIPs do have a noticeable effect on part throttle gentle acceleration (watch from this timestamp for a few min: ua-cam.com/video/Pjcpla__riY/v-deo.htmlsi=Frz_D3LwisgaXX4g&t=1356 ), though in daily driving use it's not something that will show up with an actual symptom like smoking. Over time, the longer/more frequent positive pressure events on the crankcase might be more potential to cause leaks from places like the timing cover, oil cap, or cam cradle, etc. but that would require some OEM levels of testing to confirm and correlate the cause. People HAVE been throwing aftermarket TIPs on these cars for years now without "problems"... but I do wonder with how frequent that the above mentioned leaks occur on theEA888.3, how many of those people are/were running aftermarket TIPs.
You're not in any danger or anything if you DON'T add the muffler delete right away, but I wouldn't bother with the retrofit at all if you have no intentions of ever adding it. Based on the effects I've observed by changing turbo inlet pipes, the stock TIP would be best to put back on until the Venturi is hooked up, but as mentioned above the differences between them crankcase-pressure-wise really won't be able to be noticed by the end user. Power-wise when I was IS20 there was no noticeable difference in power between stock and aftermarket TIPs also FWIW.
If it were MY daily driver Tiguan, I'd honestly just leave the stock TIP on and not change anything at all PCV-wise unless there's an actual problem with it. The APR tune is torque-based so no matter what you do to the car intake/exhaust-wise, it's going to make the same amount of power - the aftermarket TIP isn't doing anything except maybe giving you another 2-3% WGDC improvement. And that's really only realized at WOT.
I think the MK8 system is a great PCV system, but the honest truth is it isn't necessary in cases like yours and I'd hate to tell you that you "should" spend money on something that won't really return any tangible value.
BUT if you're dead set on keeping the TIP, and want to retrofit it just because you like to tinker (which I can totally relate to... if you haven't noticed), then the full retrofit is the way in my personal opinion.
Also sorry to hear about your mom 😢
@@JeffSinon that's basically my take as well😆
Since the 15-16' cars arent always fixed with the retrofit is the APR catch can with PCV plate a more sure fire solution for this issue?
For track use, it's probably the "safer" bet. If you find the can filling up excessively fast - I think that may point towards having crankcase seal leaks (or you have a TIP that pulls way too much vacuum - basically if you go for a plate system then something like the BMS TIP is more ideal since there's no diaphragm to regulate the vacuum down).
Just fitted my crankcase sensor and PCV sensor on a full retrofitted 2015 GTI that still smoked (even with the modified valve)... we found very low vacuum readings on both, and confirmed a leaking rear main seal.
Plan is to fix everything leaking (also had leaking timing cover, though far less severe) and then fit the sensors to his car again and measure the improvement to see if it ends up closer to what my 2019 GTI reads or not.
@@datadrivenmqb my car has a newly rebuilt short block and hadn't had any issues. The other day we did a few hard pulls / stops back to back testing brakes and we had the smoke show. Thought I had blown it up. But it had not other issues, smoke stopped and it has been fine and hasn't done it again with normal driving in addition to some pulls... everything is normal -no noises, makes same power etc. Car is G25-660 with forged rods/pistons. So figuring it's this issue since its a 15'. It's a daily driver but I don't want to go through a retrofit only to find it didn't fix it so looking for a permanent solution. This car could see autoX duty as well.
Is the APR the best plate system or are their others equally good - or better values. At $700+ it's not really an inexpensive "catch can" like we run on LS setups.
Appreciate your feedback!
@@dexterracingful honestly there are no guarantees regardless of what you run - engine condition and how "tight" the crankcase is (piston rings, all seals that oil touches - everything) will be what determines degree of success.
PCV plates appear to be far more tolerant of less than perfect conditions, and *should* solve any large smoking issues.
Conversely I know of several people who switched from various plate systems to MK8 retrofits and they claim it runs better.
I'm hesitant to say that anyone "should" run the MK8 valve on any kind of built engines or big turbos... people have done so successfully but if there's one thing that's clear this entire learning experience has been a clusterfuck trying to pick up all the pieces of the jigsaw puzzle.
FWIW in my opinion the APR is worth the premium over the others on the market. I am intrigued/interested in the 034 kit due to the return to sump setup as well, but the APR is the only thing I've physically tested.
@@datadrivenmqb really appreciate the feedback man. You know far more about it than I do so leaning on your experience here!
Can you add the fittings on the Tmd without taking it out of the car
Yeah, if you use both of the 1/8 npt extensions there's enough clearance.
I have been watching your videos for a bit and now that you have tested for a while I wanted your opinion & benefits of going with the MK8 PCV & Tiguan hose? I have a 2016 Golf R Stage 2 & I autocross in the summer and the odd track day. I went to an autocross day this past weekend with full oil came back and it was at the low end of the dip stick when I checked it the next day. Not sure how im burning all this oil but I figure it may be related to the PCV Valve yet I replaced it last year.
Thanks
Any time when trying to solve a problem I’d recommend a leakdown and compression test to verify engine physical health first. The only thing this won’t catch is bad valve seals (which seem to be somewhat common). If they’re OK then it’s likely the MK8 PCV full retrofit could help. If they’re not “that” bad it’s possible a plate may mask the symptoms and “work” until it doesn’t.
FWIW I looked at an APR plate and went over some general recommendations here:
ua-cam.com/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/v-deo.html&si=pnJqTSZnw1cbEzBJ
Coming in late to the party here, How are these holding up in the 40psi range on larger turbo setups?
Not sure about 40, but there are several people running 33-36psi on big turbos (though none on track just yet). I've blasted 120psi of shop air through the Venturi several times when bench testing and it hasn't had any issues for what it's worth.
@@datadrivenmqb That's good info, Thank you. I am running 40psi on a large turbo / Built motor.
@@kurtkennedy5370 yeah I'm not sure what the practical limit of a MK8/Venturi PCV setup is on the street, I imagine that limit will be found at the track first.
Once so much blowby is being generated that it's moving more volume through the block passage and is taking oil with it is what will be the determining factor. *Generally speaking* built engines will have more blowby and would be more likely to have issues first. I'd be surprised if it's a problem on the street up to 550-600ish hp though.
Hello. Will this work on the 1.8 tsi engine in the base Golf as well?
Yes, @karstgeo7290 has done the full retrofit on my IS38 1.8 Alltrack.
@@datadrivenmqbthx for the quick reply. Mine has a noticeable increase in knock at the end of a long commute (52 miles one way daily) with normal driving.
So do I need to do the full conversion? Or running the hose bung will be okay? Does the mk7 already have a hose going to the throttle pipe? Or was that added
Depends on your needs/driving. Track and autocross is far more demanding. Few people have actual problems on the street. www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv
What hose did you use for 034 inlet to Tiguan ?
It's the hose that comes with the Tiguan hose.
www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv
Ok cool. I ordered all the parts. It’s for my 2015 gti. I’m confused on the bl and ah codes. Hopefully your link for the mk8 valve works for 2015?
@@DerekStocking BL and AH are different revisions of old MK7 PCV valves.
Shouldn't be any issues with retrofitting the MK8 parts in the link to a 2015.
Quick question, what’s the best way to do a pressure boost leak test after installing the full pcv retrofit with the Venturi, now that the pcv is also connected to the turbo muffler delete.
Just unplug the Venturi hose and cap it. If you’re doing a boost leak test you should be doing it after the TIP so the PCV hose won’t be a factor at that point. Just need to cap the boost line. I just slip a bolt in and clamp it when I am testing things in “basic” retrofit form FWIW.
Ah sigh, will have to back order a mk8 pcv. The mk8 is still very new here. The Venturi Tiguan hose does not even show up on the fish at the agents. I will have to buy this from the Americas. Expensive piece of plastic pipe though.
Check out the latest video as there have been some new/important developments. ua-cam.com/video/cRznF5fx4rE/v-deo.html