Hello from Japan. It looks very beautiful when taken out of the sand mold. After all, it's no good if you don't have a proper 3D printer mold. So it will be helpful.😆
Hey thanks for watching. You are the first I have known about from Japan that has watched my video. Yup you are right about the pattern, "Garbage in garbage out" so its always good to have a proper pattern like you said.
The safety PSA combined with the big hole in the knee of your jeans gave me a chuckle. Truthfully though, I don't do much better. Nice looking pattern. I will definitely try epoxy as a coating. Thanks for making this.
Yeah those are my casting jeans and they just got worse and worse on the rip. I need more gear right now, the only things that I have protection for is my face, arms and moobs. I should probably pick up an actual full jacket and some leg covers. I can't imagine jeans would save me from +1400F aluminum. I don't think I will be doing any investment casting until I have that gear. If the investment explodes from water or expansion that is a whole lot of trouble. Thanks again for watching.
@@DamonsMetalCasting Good thinking on the investment casting. Haven't done much of that, but that aspect has always made me nervous. I think all of us don't give enough attention to lower body protection. I have a cheap leather apron, but it is warm and have "forgotten" to wear it more than once.
I'm really impressed with the quality of the final cast. I guess that spotting putty must be a contributory factor, however what is spotting putty? Thanks in advance.
Thanks! The "Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty" helps with filling in the ridges of the 3d print. Just primer can do it as well but the spot putty can go on a little quicker and thicker. Its also easy to sand and doesn't bind up the sand paper so much. How smooth you can get the pattern is how the surface will turn out. Alot of people who make their accessories out of 3d prints for cosplay do this.
Very nice work! I've never quite understood how to cast something with a 3-D hollow center--like a shotglass or bottle, for example. I understand making two sides, but how do you place sand to keep the center hollow?
I have not yet tried any core work to make a casting hollow or have a void. If you look up "sodium silicate core" on youtube you will run across videos that demonstrate what you are looking for. Usually, I have seen people utilize a pattern that includes an area to lay a premade sand core in before the 2 part mold is closed up for casting. If the part is very complicated it might require investment casting. Thank you for watching my video!
I only have had to repurchase 1 crucible (the one that came with the furnace cracked). The current crucible I am running is from Amazon and listed as "MakGrand 6.9KG Clay Graphite Crucibles, Melting Casting Metal, Withstand The High Temperature 1800℃(3272°F), Refining Aluminum Gold Silver Copper Glass, Casting Tools (6.9kg)" I have only fired that a few times. Currently, I am experimented with preheating my crucible to 450-500F in a toaster oven before I put it in the furnace with a direct flame on it. Also, I am sure you do this too, I return the crucible to the furnace after use to let it slowly cool inside the furnace when I am done.
I know this is petro bond sand, but in one of your earlier videos you had mentioned that you use 180 mesh sand. My question is where do you get 180 mesh sand? Love your videos.
The 180 mesh sand is green sand(grey in color) from amazon. The 180mesh sand is hydrated with water and needs a specific water content to work properly. The 190mesh is petrobond(brown in color) this is oil based and also purchased from Amazon. The company that makes these two types of sand is TETON. I started with green sand but I tried petrobond and preferred it over the green sand. When I purchased this sand it was in the 100lb quantity and cost about $3 per pound. I wish that was available again but I can't seem to find it. Thanks so much for checking out my videos. I hope this helped.
LOL. Yeah its hard to hold people's attention on UA-cam. My son has some UA-camrs he watches and they keep people's attention by screaming through the video. I told him that's worse than reading a book in all caps. Thanks for the watch.
That's some clean casting.
Thank you very much.
Hello from Japan.
It looks very beautiful when taken out of the sand mold.
After all, it's no good if you don't have a proper 3D printer mold.
So it will be helpful.😆
Hey thanks for watching. You are the first I have known about from Japan that has watched my video. Yup you are right about the pattern, "Garbage in garbage out" so its always good to have a proper pattern like you said.
The safety PSA combined with the big hole in the knee of your jeans gave me a chuckle. Truthfully though, I don't do much better. Nice looking pattern. I will definitely try epoxy as a coating. Thanks for making this.
Yeah those are my casting jeans and they just got worse and worse on the rip. I need more gear right now, the only things that I have protection for is my face, arms and moobs. I should probably pick up an actual full jacket and some leg covers. I can't imagine jeans would save me from +1400F aluminum. I don't think I will be doing any investment casting until I have that gear. If the investment explodes from water or expansion that is a whole lot of trouble. Thanks again for watching.
@@DamonsMetalCasting Good thinking on the investment casting. Haven't done much of that, but that aspect has always made me nervous. I think all of us don't give enough attention to lower body protection. I have a cheap leather apron, but it is warm and have "forgotten" to wear it more than once.
Those turned out fantastic!
Thank you. I saw you were monetized lately that has to make you feel on top of the world. Congrats. I am still trying to work on mine almost there.
Love your dialog and videos!!
Thanks man much appreciated!
I'm really impressed with the quality of the final cast. I guess that spotting putty must be a contributory factor, however what is spotting putty? Thanks in advance.
Thanks! The "Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty" helps with filling in the ridges of the 3d print. Just primer can do it as well but the spot putty can go on a little quicker and thicker. Its also easy to sand and doesn't bind up the sand paper so much. How smooth you can get the pattern is how the surface will turn out. Alot of people who make their accessories out of 3d prints for cosplay do this.
Very nice work! I've never quite understood how to cast something with a 3-D hollow center--like a shotglass or bottle, for example. I understand making two sides, but how do you place sand to keep the center hollow?
I have not yet tried any core work to make a casting hollow or have a void. If you look up "sodium silicate core" on youtube you will run across videos that demonstrate what you are looking for. Usually, I have seen people utilize a pattern that includes an area to lay a premade sand core in before the 2 part mold is closed up for casting. If the part is very complicated it might require investment casting. Thank you for watching my video!
Very nice work. I have been doing casting for a few years now. Lately, I've noticed that the quality of crucibles has declined. What brand do you use?
I only have had to repurchase 1 crucible (the one that came with the furnace cracked). The current crucible I am running is from Amazon and listed as "MakGrand 6.9KG Clay Graphite Crucibles, Melting Casting Metal, Withstand The High Temperature 1800℃(3272°F), Refining Aluminum Gold Silver Copper Glass, Casting Tools (6.9kg)" I have only fired that a few times. Currently, I am experimented with preheating my crucible to 450-500F in a toaster oven before I put it in the furnace with a direct flame on it. Also, I am sure you do this too, I return the crucible to the furnace after use to let it slowly cool inside the furnace when I am done.
I know this is petro bond sand, but in one of your earlier videos you had mentioned that you use 180 mesh sand. My question is where do you get 180 mesh sand? Love your videos.
The 180 mesh sand is green sand(grey in color) from amazon. The 180mesh sand is hydrated with water and needs a specific water content to work properly. The 190mesh is petrobond(brown in color) this is oil based and also purchased from Amazon. The company that makes these two types of sand is TETON. I started with green sand but I tried petrobond and preferred it over the green sand. When I purchased this sand it was in the 100lb quantity and cost about $3 per pound. I wish that was available again but I can't seem to find it. Thanks so much for checking out my videos. I hope this helped.
Thanks
love it lol
Thanks much appreciated!
ADHD, what do you mean, just because you'd already sped it up and I upped the speed to 1.75x!
LOL. Yeah its hard to hold people's attention on UA-cam. My son has some UA-camrs he watches and they keep people's attention by screaming through the video. I told him that's worse than reading a book in all caps. Thanks for the watch.