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Thank you! I appreciate it.

Hey thanks for the heads up about the seed-slik. Also, I will try a tilt on the next casting. I do have another large kind of flat piece to cast. Thank you.

I got the thermocouple sensor and the thermocouple reader from amazon. Looks like you can pick up a thermocouple reader for $30 dollars. The part that may vary in money is the thermocouple for the reader it has to go up higher than the temp of the metal. Some thermocouple sensors cost as much as $60. If you look hard I think you can find it cheaper. TL1917SL K-Type Inconel 600 Flexible Thermocouple Temperature Sensor Probes -40~2012°F that might work for aluminum its around $40 on amazon. You still might find one less expensive if you look hard.

Thank you for the reply. I was seeing a lot of them for over $500.

Yup, its pretty disappointing to pack up all the sand just for a fail. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for taking the time too look and leave an analysis of the cast. I think I did have a slight tilt for the aluminum to flow into the letters maybe next time I will increase the angle. I will take in account your suggestions and implement them. Yup, sometimes a video of a failed casting can be useful too. Thanks again!

Yup I will do my best to make more. Thanks for watching.

I believe it. You doing ok now after being exposed to all those particulates? Hopefully, you were able to have some sort of mask with a filter on.

​@@DamonsMetalCastingyou betcha, mind you it was a one summer minimum wage student job. I developed a respect for the gents who did the pours under sweltering heat

I did not vent the letters and will definitely use your suggestion on the next one. Yeah, when I saw how fine the entrance to the letters were when I received this pattern, I realized it was going to be a challenge. I also figured if I post the video anyways, I could get some good feed back from people like you. Thanks appreciate it.

Yeah its definitely an original font. There was no way I was going to be recreating it from any type of programs with different fonts, so I had to trace it. I can give you a hint what letters are in it "A V I T" and on the next video I will just say it. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Yup, I will keep trying until I get it. Hopefully sooner than later.

Hey thanks for watching the video! I purchased my thermocouple from amazon. I was pretty sure it could go to 1300C and plug directly into the little cheap hand held temp reader also sold on Amazon. I don't see my exact one on Amazon any more but I think there are a few options that might work. Some may not go all the way to 1300C but high enough for aluminum.

Hey thanks for the sub add I appreciate it. Yup that adaptor helped me, I am terrible at free hand. Recently, I picked up a desktop hobby CNC for $100 on FB market place and will hopefully be doing some more foam casting. Glad you enjoyed the video!

Thank you for the positive feed back I appreciate it. Also, thanks for watching!

I didn't realize I was yelling, maybe I am old and can't hear my self. What part of the video? This was the most difficult casting I had so far. I packed this 10-12 times in different ways before it finally gave me a mold cavity that wasn't too messed up. Thanks for watching!

@DamonsMetalCasting ❤️❤️❤️

@@huryburly6025 Thanks!

@AnunnakiAaron yeah I have looked a little. To electroplate aluminum a zincate solution is needed. I am not sure if it would be easier just to cast in zinc or if an alloy called zamak would work. I have a bar of zamak but haven't tried it yet. Thanks for checking out my video and leaving something for me to think about doing.

I purchased the sand from Amazon online. Its Teton petrobond 190mesh. I haven't seen it in a large discounted size in a while. Just smaller sizes for higher prices. Thanks for watching my video.

@@DamonsMetalCasting thank you very much

Thanks!

@madmartigan4141 Hey, thanks so much. I got my sand from Amazon. It's teton 190mesh ultra fine petrobond. I purchased it in a 100lb quantity for just over 300 dollars. I purchased that years ago and haven't seen it in that quantity size for a very long time. I think some jewelry supply companies also carry it. It's really hard to find anymore in 100lbs at the cheaper price. Thanks again for watching.

@@DamonsMetalCasting thanks for the answer, yes, I bought a 5lb bag of the same, and am bothered that I can't find it in larger quantities. Thanks again!

Yeah when I got the parting powder package and read the warning on it, I am surprised I didn't have to be in a level A hazmat suit. I think in one of my next videos I should post a picture of it. Thanks for checking out my video and taking time to post a comment!

So far, I have been only casting aluminum so I haven't encountered having the need for multiple crucibles. I have yet to try making casting sand but definitely have an interest. The sand that I purchased just got me up and running sooner than later. The boil linseed oil base sand for casting sounds interesting to try, thanks for bringing that up. I am in a desert in dry heat. I feel bad for you with that humidity, must be heck to do any of those things you listed. If you can get your hands on one of those probes its helpful in my opinion. Hey thanks again for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Much appreciated and good luck casting! (If you have a casting from your DIY sand mixture send me a picture if you don't mind. I would like to check that out. damonsmetalcasting@gmail.com )

@@DamonsMetalCasting *UGH* wrote you a long reply and then accidently navigated away and lost the text. ... I'll try again later. (So much for being computer savvy LOL)

The 180 mesh sand is green sand(grey in color) from amazon. The 180mesh sand is hydrated with water and needs a specific water content to work properly. The 190mesh is petrobond(brown in color) this is oil based and also purchased from Amazon. The company that makes these two types of sand is TETON. I started with green sand but I tried petrobond and preferred it over the green sand. When I purchased this sand it was in the 100lb quantity and cost about $3 per pound. I wish that was available again but I can't seem to find it. Thanks so much for checking out my videos. I hope this helped.

Thanks

The 180 mesh sand is green sand(grey in color) from amazon. The 180mesh sand is hydrated with water and needs a specific water content to work properly. The 190mesh is petrobond(brown in color) this is oil based and also purchased from Amazon. The company that makes these two types of sand is TETON. I started with green sand but I tried petrobond and preferred it over the green sand. When I purchased this sand it was in the 100lb quantity and cost about $3 per pound. I wish that was available again but I can't seem to find it. Thanks so much for checking out my videos. I hope this helped.

Thanks for the information

I think it works about the same. My videos on this channel started off with 190mesh green sand(grey in color). The videos using green sand are the Maltese cross, incense holder, and peace sign. The only reason I decided to use petrobond(brown in color) is the green sand I have has to be prepared a day in advance by hydrating and mulling to make it homogeneous. I also have accidently made the green sand too wet before and had to spread it out to get the moisture out of it. The green sand was just a little bit more work but I think you can get the same results in the end provided the mesh is close. Thanks for watching!

@@DamonsMetalCasting thanks

Thank you! It just required an afternoon of metal cutting and bending.

Hey I am open to criticism. What was your idea of a better gating system? Maybe something that went around the pattern and fed into it? Thanks for watching.

@DamonsMetalCasting The first patternshop I worked in used a ratio gating system. Basically anywhere from a 1:2:2 to 1:4:4 ratio. Sprue is 1, runner and ingate is 4. Example if your sprue is a 5/8 diam or 1/2 square. That's .25 square inches. Your runner and ingate .5 or 1 square in. So your runner would be .75" sq. or 1" sq. Assuming your pattern is .25 thick a 3/16" high ingate will work. Ingate would be 3" to 5" wide. Without pictures it's harder to describe with just words. But pretty easy once you see it.

@@roscoepatternworks3471 thanks

Hey thanks again for watching!!

This casting was pretty humbling for me, with all the issues. I am glad that this video was insightful, no sense in not sharing my failures so other people can learn from them. I agree with you for the goal of making proper castings. I am still striving to learn too and maybe try more different casting techniques. (sand cores, investment casting, foam casting etc...) Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment, its much appreciated. Good Luck!

I appreciate the feed back. I agree with you 100 percent. I just don't have a TIG that can do aluminum, maybe something to evaluate in the future. Thank you for checking out the video!

@@DamonsMetalCasting tig/mig is one way to go but if you're only working with aluminum or copper/bronze that becomes approachable with certain kinds of blow torches. Again I stress the might as you should only do what makes financial sense for you, not everything needs to be big and expensive.

What are you suggesting something like the aluminum brazing rods with a torch similar to a benzomatic and mapp gas? I have used those rods for non casting work before. I don't know if the filler rod will polish or oxidize the same as aluminum so the fix doesn't stand out. Guess its something to try before going all out on a TIG.

@@DamonsMetalCasting Something similar to that yes but I'd have a gander at my hardware store and what was available from there(personally I'd lean towards mapp gas or hotter, but it should be possible to get away with propane). As long as your using a similar enough alloy to what your casting it should be possible to polish away any blemishes from blasting "it" with a torch and for the love of Christ FLUX flux use the right flux please. Bit of an art to blasting any of the copper or aluminum alloys but once you get the hang of it its not that hard, just a bit different from doing plumbing. And lastly but not least you're going to have a very hard time beating a TIG/MIG machine but have you considered a not super expensive arc welder? And lastly there are things that welding will and will not be able to do for you like for example those 2 massive holes you had in the first casting you had just forget it, weld line's would show no matter what you do. But fixing the minor blemishes and holes like on the part you decided to send out are absolutely possible. Do what makes sense to you and remember we are all just guys on the internet any advice we give may or may not be helpful to the gorilla out in the jungle banging rocks together, no matter how "right" we are.

There is a channel and the name is Olfoundryman, he is doing die casting with metal molds but not in detail. I believe the aluminum sticks to the metal mold and a material is sprayed on to keep the aluminum from sticking. I have heard of using an acetylene torch with a real sooty flame to add a non stick surface of carbon too. You are right in my opinion if you tried this I have not seen this done anywhere else on the internet. Sounds interesting to see if you get this going. Another method that you could try is make a real simple coin mold with no detail. Then make a stamping die with your laser like the actual US mint uses for coins. Then you could just stamp your aluminum blanks. Either way send me a message if you post a video or send an email of the results. That would be an interesting project. Good luck!

Purity of cast and endurance of your mold are the issues. Although all steel alloys melt at much higher temps than aluminum, some of it will work its way into the cast anyway, affecting the surface qualities as well as gradually degrading the mold. If you have deeper pockets you could try machining a titanuim mold. (I'd be surprised if your laser is hot enough to dent it without many dozens of passes though :). Interestingly, titanium does expand with heat. (The reason the USAFs famous SR-71 Blackbird leaked fuel on the pad was because the titanium structures had to have gaps to allow for said expansion at Mach speeds. At full tilt, the plane elongated more than you might guess... Homework exercise :p) That historical tidbit aside, using a titanium mold in your coin casting might work well. Seems like Im contradicting myself but because your coins are going to be relatively thin (I assume) the pour will freeze faster than the mold expands. It would also help to paint on a thin layer of a commercial grade refractory which will be sacrificial, requiring replenishing before each pour. You could also try multiple layers of same if youd like to try the steel mold - it might work but youd loose a bit if detail as the thickness of sufficient layers would tend to fill the fine lines. In ether case you could also have more than one coin in the mold. But at some quanity, the tutanium would expand enough to spoll the whole batch. Expensive experiment. The stamp suggestion our dear video producer gives might just be the best in the long run. Be it gold, silver, pewter, or my favorite alloy, Zimac-12, "soft stamp" it just after the metal starts freezing. If a chill runs up your spine, that's because the spirits of the coin minters of yore are smiling as they watch over your shoulders. For that is how it was done for thousands of years.

@@anthonyp3066 Thank you so much!

That sounds pretty interesting. I haven't heard of anybody using casting for knife making like that. I am glad the video can help you out. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.

@joequillun7790 Thank you! Also, I appreciate the feed back.

@Mister0J78 Thank you so much. I bet you will be up and running making good castings in no time. If you do have a little bit of problems like aluminum freezing up too soon in the mold try an aluminum that was previous used for casting. Pop can aluminum doesn't have any silicon in it that helps with flow. Good luck, and thanks for watching!

@@DamonsMetalCasting I love seeing your videos and it is part of the inspiration that made me purchase my vevor melting furnace

@Mister0J78 Thanks! I hope you get alot of enjoyment out of it. Stay safe.

@@DamonsMetalCasting always staying safe. Can I ask what is the best way to ensure the crucible is fully empty after a pour ?

@Mister0J78 I just poor all the aluminum out into a steel muffin pan because ingots from the muffin pan fit well in my crucible. There might be a thin skin of aluminum left but after the crucible cools it pulls right out.

Thank you!

@kenclaro1806 Thanks for watching my videos. Send me a message to my email and when I find the file I will send it to you.

Im not to computer savy whats your email addy and i dont need the file i need the part

I am not sure what type of aluminum you are melting. Aluminum car parts like manifolds work great for me or computer hard drive chassis. If you are doing aluminum cans you will get alot of aluminum oxides/slag If you are melting thin aluminum like cans it oxidizes pretty bad because of the larger surface area per volume. The slag should be floating to the top to scrap off before the pour also. If you can provide more detail I might be able to understand what is happening better. Thanks for commenting!

@@DamonsMetalCasting it is soda cans that I was melting and after removing to be excessive amounts of slag I then poured the molten aluminium and then for some reason there was a lot that had stuck to the inside of the crucible I will take photos tomorrow and try and upload them

People travel, loss of interest in gathering place, preference to upstate in travel: lost the fleur de lis

@sophiakean-chong6692 yup its incorporated in alot of designs. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment, much appreciated.

@@dangoss1188 it's USG sheetrock Plus 3 joint compound. You can thin it way down with water for the first coat to get a good first layer. You can mix with water to get whatever consistency works best for you.

@@DamonsMetalCasting thank you, I'll give it a try 👍 I use to do all forms of metal work many moons ago and am just setting back up again, whilst I have some good old tried and tested home methods I am under no illusion that new materials and even old revised ones come out every year that are more suitable. Your video was well done in many ways so keep them coming 👍

Thanks a lot for the nice comment and the toothpick idea. I hit a pause because I took on 2 jobs from viewers and the jobs turned out to be alot more challenging and problematic then I expected. Instead of making people wait for the finished videos I might create parts of the videos of how I worked through certain problems. Currently where I live, the mornings before the sun comes up are 89F. I will be looking into a minisplit for my garage soon.

@@DamonsMetalCasting if you need some help sorting out some of your problems let me know I might be able to help. I have been pouring silver and copper for a few years now my videos maybe a little boring but you may find some insight in them cheers🤠👍

@4ninesfinesilver315 thanks appreciate it

Thank you!

Unfortunately, I purchased the mill over 20yrs ago from wttool.com I purchased it around $1700 and now the prices are ridiculously high. Grizzly has a similar one for $6775. I would probably suggest looking for used mills and inspecting them for damage or wear. If I hadn't purchased mine back then I probably could never have afforded a new one. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much.

I am just showing wants out there and what works best for me. I have a guy that will buy pop cans 2x the price of casting aluminium and sell me casting aluminium. Basically what ever I have in cans he gives double back to me in casting aluminium scrap. I agree there is a cost to everything and you do what works best for you. Thanks for watching!

Your not made of aluminum I am

@@3dguy839 I guess since Iron man died we could use a backup called Aluminum Man.

Thank you!

Yeah I wish I could do something like that but I need to clean up each time I am done casting. My wife has a few opinions on how the backyard should look.

Thanks!

Thanks man totally appreciate it!