Thanks man I really appreciate the complement. I think its a matter of just paying attention to details and following it through. If a person starts out with a smooth surface quality on their pattern, uses a high mesh petrobond, and uses an alloy of aluminum meant for casting, there should be some good results. I have seen alot of videos of pop can aluminum, rough surfaces on patterns and homemade casting sand, that just won't give a good product. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it. If I knew how to make that petrobond sand I would quit my day job and sell petrobond. When I started casting I didn't want to start off trying to figure out a recipe for casting sand so I bought mine off of Amazon. The brand is Teton and it works really well. Thanks again
Thanks! Excellent video... I got my furnace and just built the frames for my casting. Once my bag of Petrobond shows up I'm gonna follow the steps in your video.
That's great I am glad my videos have been an aid to you for metal casting. Make sure you also have a good set of lifting and pouring tongs. Most important of all make sure you have a good set of protection gear. Molten metal will be unforgiving if you have an accident. I wish you best of luck and let me know how it turns out.
Thank you! I haven't used chemicals or flux for my aluminum melts. I try and use aluminum that has been cast before and is relatively cleaned off. No point in adding aluminum with dirt on it and then trying to remove the dirt or impurities. Also, I have seen people try and use flux with aluminum cans. In my opinion aluminum cans are not an aluminum alloy used for casting and thin aluminum turns to oxide very readily before it melts. In my opinion for the amount of aluminum I have cast, I would recommend using aluminum that is casting grade aluminum alloy. That aluminum will melt at a lower temp because of the silicon content in it and will also flow better then other alloys. I would also say melt chunks not thin sheets or chips that end up making more aluminum oxide then molten aluminum. Then probably not over agitate or over stir it and gently skim the dross off before the pour. When pouring have a nice consistent pour with a pouring basin to help with a smooth introduction into the sand cavity. These things are what I believe work well for my casting.
That came out awesome!!! 👍 Great progression when looking back at your earlier castings, I do that too sometimes, it's good to see all the things learned along the way paying off in the end. Now if I only had more time to get back into casting 😅
Yeah I hear you about time, it would be great to have alot more of it. Yup, I wanted to show the progression and to also point out I appreciated all the help/support along the way. Thanks again for watching!
Unfortunately, I purchased the mill over 20yrs ago from wttool.com I purchased it around $1700 and now the prices are ridiculously high. Grizzly has a similar one for $6775. I would probably suggest looking for used mills and inspecting them for damage or wear. If I hadn't purchased mine back then I probably could never have afforded a new one. Thanks for watching!
Really nice teaching video I’m just wondering why you stopped. Another thing for the fins on the F bomb using toothpicks for channels to create air events will help dramatically and very easy to clean up. Also, I really like the thought of using car wax on the patterns. excellent idea🤠👍
Thanks a lot for the nice comment and the toothpick idea. I hit a pause because I took on 2 jobs from viewers and the jobs turned out to be alot more challenging and problematic then I expected. Instead of making people wait for the finished videos I might create parts of the videos of how I worked through certain problems. Currently where I live, the mornings before the sun comes up are 89F. I will be looking into a minisplit for my garage soon.
@@DamonsMetalCasting if you need some help sorting out some of your problems let me know I might be able to help. I have been pouring silver and copper for a few years now my videos maybe a little boring but you may find some insight in them cheers🤠👍
In this video I used a 190 mesh petrobond sold by Teton Supply Co. The high mesh sand is used for casting very intricate parts or jewelry. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Sure can, the grey sand that I use is called Green Sand because of the water in it. It has a small water content instead of an oil binder mixed in with it. My Petrobond(orange sand) is 180mesh in particle size, the green sand(grey color) is 190mesh also a very fine sand. If your Green sand(grey color) is too moist it will make steam and cause problems with your casting. The finer the sand the more detail you should be able to transfer to your casting. Good luck!
This is very informative. I'm thinking about trying this out on a hobby level but had a question about the strength of cast aluminum. Is it fairly strong in the sense that you could poor usefull tools? I'm looking at making a T handle wrench part and wondering if cast aluminum would hold up strong enough to be considered functional. Doesn't have to be extreme torsion but enough to get a bolt tight with the strength of one hand.
You might get better use out of welding 2 rods together in a T for the wrench rather than cast aluminum. I find the cast aluminum to be softer than standard 6061 aluminum. If you are some how attaching a fitting to the end of a casting that is metal to turn a bolt it might work fine. I think cast aluminum directly turning a bolt might wear/strip pretty quick. The aluminum also might make a comfortable handle for your T wrench if you made the rest out of metal. Just throwing some ideas out there. Good luck on your project!
@@DamonsMetalCastingthe only thing that gives me encouragement to want to try it is that it's not for a standard metal bolt like you think, it will be for a 2" plastic head bolt and the wrench will just have a couple beefy "fingers" that index into the plastic bolt head. Normally this bolt is just finger tight anyway. I made one from maple wood which worked great. The torsional strength of cast metal over time is what I wonder about though. Thanks for your thoughts
Well I don't see why not there are plenty of resources out there like UA-cam and Facebook groups. I would probably say do the following when you finally get into it: Make sure have enough protective gear to safely work. Make or buy a decent set of lifting and pouring tongs. If you get a furnace with ceramic wool cover it up with an appropriate coating so you don't breath ceramic fibers. Good Luck!
I got the thermocouple sensor and the thermocouple reader from amazon. Looks like you can pick up a thermocouple reader for $30 dollars. The part that may vary in money is the thermocouple for the reader it has to go up higher than the temp of the metal. Some thermocouple sensors cost as much as $60. If you look hard I think you can find it cheaper. TL1917SL K-Type Inconel 600 Flexible Thermocouple Temperature Sensor Probes -40~2012°F that might work for aluminum its around $40 on amazon. You still might find one less expensive if you look hard.
I purchased the sand from Amazon online. Its Teton petrobond 190mesh. I haven't seen it in a large discounted size in a while. Just smaller sizes for higher prices. Thanks for watching my video.
Challenge accepted. I got an idea I could do but I have a few videos inline before I get to that. I definitely appreciate the feed back for what people would like to see. Thanks for watching.
I'm new to sandcasting. Every time I fill the mold with the delft clay and pound it down, the clay will "split" open on the mold. Usually it splits in a different part of the mold, that I'm pounding. I hammering the clay in fairly hard. Is it possible I'm doing it too hard? I just can't understand what's causing this. When I turn the mold over, the bottom of the mold is nice and smooth. Can you please tell me what could be wrong? Thank you in advance.
I have not used Delft clay before so I will just throw out some guesses that might help. One issue could be if its been used up and has a lot of burnt binder in it preventing it from being able to stick together. It might need better mixing/mulling. Maybe a bad batch from the manufacturer? I have pounded the heck out of my sand(Petrobond) and made a real hard layer, then the next layer on top doesn't want to combine to the first layer and peels off. I have seen people scratch up the hard layer even with a hair pic so it can combine easier with the next layer added. Sorry I couldn't help more. Its difficult when not hands on with a problem and only throwing out guess. Good luck!
Did you make the flask? What are the dimensions, because I want to cast flat sterling silver pendants around 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick and that flask looks the right depth, as opposed to most of the ones on Amazon which are deeper.
Yup, I made the flask from wood on my table saw. The outer flask dimensions are 9" long, 5" wide and one half of the flask is 1.25" deep. The total depth of both halves together would be 2.5". The inner dimensions are 7.5" long and about 4.25" wide. The ends have thick wood on them so I can screw the sides in and attach a handles. I agree, I like using flasks that are closer to the dimensions of the part I am casting. Thanks for watching my video!
By far one of the most smooth casting I've seen here on UA-cam. Well done. Can you tell something about the metal you're using? Is it just alumnium or an alloy with some zinc in it or something?
Thanks! Yup the aluminum is an alloy I am not sure of the exact alloy number since I get it from salvaged car parts that have been previously cast. Cast car rims work well, and so do cast engine intake manifolds. This type of aluminum contains silicon to help it become more fluid. Aluminum that was machined like the common 6061 or another type used for soda cans are terrible for casting. Just look for a source that has already been cast and it will probably work well. Good luck and thanks for watching.
I wish I knew the recipe. I had purchased this sand from a supplier. Its Teton-Bond Petrobond Ultra-FINE (190 Mesh). I do use a small amount of brand new sand for the facing sand. The rest of the sand for packing up the flask is reused from previous castings. I also try and remove as much as possible of the burnt sand from the used sand too. Thanks for watching my videos.
THANKS, HOWEVER, IMHO: MOST PEOPLE DO NOT HAVE "3D PRINTING" EQUIPMENT, SO, PERHAPS SHOW SOME "OLD SCHOOL" CARVING, AND "PATTERN MAKING" METHODS...?!... [SUGGESTION: USE A LOT MORE AMBIENT LIGHTING, IN FUTURE VIDEOS. SO THE DETAILS WILL BE EASIER TO SEE.]
Thanks for your feed back, I will try and add more light. Honestly, I am probably stuck with using the 3D printer because of my lack of artistic skills. I have Zero skills for carving. I also plan to distribute some of my original 3d print pattern STL files which I can't do if I carve by hand either. The used 3d printers of Facebook market place and craigslist are selling for as low as $100. I do agree 100% that watching the old school pattern making is great but I am just lacking in the skill to be able to do that and time to learn.
That is something entirely different! The title doesn’t read SCULPTING and casting If you’re unable to find a way of making your own objects to place within a mould or just duplicating something, then you’re obviously not very bright 🙃 Who types in CAPS honestly 🥸
It's ridiculous to expect every content creator to work around the restrictions of what the viewers may or may not have. The entitlement of people is mind boggling.
@@chrisgenovese8188 Yup I agree, they should really have the mindset of it being a benefit to have the ability to experience something they can't or don't want to invest in. I will never be able to purchase a sports car like a Ferrari, but I can have an experience of watching and learning about one that somebody shared in their video.
I use talc with a dust mask and only use talc sparingly for the part to be cast in the sand. Baby power which is now corn starch works well enough for me to use as parting powder since I literally have to dust it on all over the drag for the sand casting. I have read that on the internet there is more of a link to cancer exposure with talc that has contaminates of asbestos included in it. This was taken from cancercenter.com "According to the American Cancer Society, some studies have suggested that workers who mine or mill talc may be at increased risk of lung cancer, but other studies show no link. These workers are also likely to be exposed to other minerals and elements that are known to be carcinogenic, such as asbestos and radon, making it more difficult to assess how much of the risk is associated specifically with talc. The ACS states that additional research is needed into whether a connection exists between talcum powder and endometrial cancer for women who are post-menopausal." I strongly suggest that people should do their own research before coming to their own conclusion if Talcum powder is something they should use.
That's one of the very best sand castings I've ever seen. Really nice work!
Thank you very much.
This is one of the better detailed looks at how to do it right. Subbed
Thank you! I appreciate it.
you are one of the few who show casting done safely outside on a sensible surface. Keep up the excellent work.
Thank you. I still need to make a pair of decent lifting tongs. The lifting tongs that came with my furnace are very sketchy.
I have that exact same Harbor Freight bandsaw. It's been working for at least 15 years. I used it today.
Thats great mine has been holding up as well but my blade pops of easily do you have the same issue, or ideas to fix that?
I have the same belt sander lol. Excellent casting work sir! Thank you for posting this!
It might be overstepping to call you a master, but that's lost wax or steel die quality from sand casting
That's insane, kudos to you, dude
Thanks man I really appreciate the complement. I think its a matter of just paying attention to details and following it through. If a person starts out with a smooth surface quality on their pattern, uses a high mesh petrobond, and uses an alloy of aluminum meant for casting, there should be some good results. I have seen alot of videos of pop can aluminum, rough surfaces on patterns and homemade casting sand, that just won't give a good product. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the clear explanations. Your videos are getting me ready for my first casting pours.
Thank you for the feed back. When you do your first pour make sure you have some protection and I wish you luck! Thanks again for watching my videos.
Up and coming keep up the great work!
Thank you so much!
Hi Damon. Watching from Australia. Love your work. I am a newbie and would love a video of how you make your sand it looks really great. Cheers.
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it. If I knew how to make that petrobond sand I would quit my day job and sell petrobond. When I started casting I didn't want to start off trying to figure out a recipe for casting sand so I bought mine off of Amazon. The brand is Teton and it works really well. Thanks again
Congrats on the 1 year mark and coming so far!
Thanks!
Thanks! Excellent video... I got my furnace and just built the frames for my casting. Once my bag of Petrobond shows up I'm gonna follow the steps in your video.
That's great I am glad my videos have been an aid to you for metal casting. Make sure you also have a good set of lifting and pouring tongs. Most important of all make sure you have a good set of protection gear. Molten metal will be unforgiving if you have an accident. I wish you best of luck and let me know how it turns out.
Wow looks awesome. Thanks for this been trying to work this out myself.
Thank you!
Best surface I ever seen!
Other youtubers use chemicals for degassing and Flux. What your thoughts/experience about that?
Thank you! I haven't used chemicals or flux for my aluminum melts. I try and use aluminum that has been cast before and is relatively cleaned off. No point in adding aluminum with dirt on it and then trying to remove the dirt or impurities. Also, I have seen people try and use flux with aluminum cans. In my opinion aluminum cans are not an aluminum alloy used for casting and thin aluminum turns to oxide very readily before it melts. In my opinion for the amount of aluminum I have cast, I would recommend using aluminum that is casting grade aluminum alloy. That aluminum will melt at a lower temp because of the silicon content in it and will also flow better then other alloys. I would also say melt chunks not thin sheets or chips that end up making more aluminum oxide then molten aluminum. Then probably not over agitate or over stir it and gently skim the dross off before the pour. When pouring have a nice consistent pour with a pouring basin to help with a smooth introduction into the sand cavity. These things are what I believe work well for my casting.
That came out awesome!!! 👍
Great progression when looking back at your earlier castings, I do that too sometimes, it's good to see all the things learned along the way paying off in the end.
Now if I only had more time to get back into casting 😅
Yeah I hear you about time, it would be great to have alot more of it. Yup, I wanted to show the progression and to also point out I appreciated all the help/support along the way. Thanks again for watching!
boi i watched alot videos and i already have done several pours but your video is a must watch right before my next pour!
Thank you!
verry nice video
Thank you. I appreciate the feed back.
Good job! Short and sweet video. Picked up a few tips I could use myself. Thanks! +1 sub
Thank you so much!
Sir, you're awesome.
Thank you!
Very smooth finish on your casts. Always learning and growing 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks! Yup always trying to learn and grow. Also, speaking of growing your channel is doing great man. Congrats on all your subs!
@@DamonsMetalCasting keep it up! thanks, I'm putting in the work. 🔥🔥
The V8 came out great. Just goes to show you have to love every step of the process if you want a great outcome
Thank you. Yup pretty much, can't skip on attention to each step.
Hi really enjoyed your video, your milling machine looks good can you tell me the brand/model?
Unfortunately, I purchased the mill over 20yrs ago from wttool.com I purchased it around $1700 and now the prices are ridiculously high. Grizzly has a similar one for $6775. I would probably suggest looking for used mills and inspecting them for damage or wear. If I hadn't purchased mine back then I probably could never have afforded a new one. Thanks for watching!
Really nice teaching video I’m just wondering why you stopped. Another thing for the fins on the F bomb using toothpicks for channels to create air events will help dramatically and very easy to clean up. Also, I really like the thought of using car wax on the patterns. excellent idea🤠👍
Thanks a lot for the nice comment and the toothpick idea. I hit a pause because I took on 2 jobs from viewers and the jobs turned out to be alot more challenging and problematic then I expected. Instead of making people wait for the finished videos I might create parts of the videos of how I worked through certain problems. Currently where I live, the mornings before the sun comes up are 89F. I will be looking into a minisplit for my garage soon.
@@DamonsMetalCasting if you need some help sorting out some of your problems let me know I might be able to help. I have been pouring silver and copper for a few years now my videos maybe a little boring but you may find some insight in them cheers🤠👍
@4ninesfinesilver315 thanks appreciate it
❤super Bravo and thanks
Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
One of the most insanely clean molds I’ve seen. What kind of sand do you use??
In this video I used a 190 mesh petrobond sold by Teton Supply Co. The high mesh sand is used for casting very intricate parts or jewelry. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Can we use cement sand the color grey sand. Like casting on it while its still a little moist..
Sure can, the grey sand that I use is called Green Sand because of the water in it. It has a small water content instead of an oil binder mixed in with it. My Petrobond(orange sand) is 180mesh in particle size, the green sand(grey color) is 190mesh also a very fine sand. If your Green sand(grey color) is too moist it will make steam and cause problems with your casting. The finer the sand the more detail you should be able to transfer to your casting. Good luck!
!awesome ❤
Thank you!
This is very informative. I'm thinking about trying this out on a hobby level but had a question about the strength of cast aluminum. Is it fairly strong in the sense that you could poor usefull tools? I'm looking at making a T handle wrench part and wondering if cast aluminum would hold up strong enough to be considered functional. Doesn't have to be extreme torsion but enough to get a bolt tight with the strength of one hand.
You might get better use out of welding 2 rods together in a T for the wrench rather than cast aluminum. I find the cast aluminum to be softer than standard 6061 aluminum. If you are some how attaching a fitting to the end of a casting that is metal to turn a bolt it might work fine. I think cast aluminum directly turning a bolt might wear/strip pretty quick. The aluminum also might make a comfortable handle for your T wrench if you made the rest out of metal. Just throwing some ideas out there. Good luck on your project!
@@DamonsMetalCastingthe only thing that gives me encouragement to want to try it is that it's not for a standard metal bolt like you think, it will be for a 2" plastic head bolt and the wrench will just have a couple beefy "fingers" that index into the plastic bolt head. Normally this bolt is just finger tight anyway. I made one from maple wood which worked great. The torsional strength of cast metal over time is what I wonder about though. Thanks for your thoughts
@DavidGeorgeson Being that it's for a plastic bolt head, it will be fine.
I hope i can do this kind of thing myself one day.
Well I don't see why not there are plenty of resources out there like UA-cam and Facebook groups. I would probably say do the following when you finally get into it: Make sure have enough protective gear to safely work. Make or buy a decent set of lifting and pouring tongs. If you get a furnace with ceramic wool cover it up with an appropriate coating so you don't breath ceramic fibers. Good Luck!
Nice job,, I just started sand casting, this is great advice!
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
What’s the tool you’re using to measure the molten metal? Do you have a brand name of that one? Is it expensive?
I got the thermocouple sensor and the thermocouple reader from amazon. Looks like you can pick up a thermocouple reader for $30 dollars. The part that may vary in money is the thermocouple for the reader it has to go up higher than the temp of the metal. Some thermocouple sensors cost as much as $60. If you look hard I think you can find it cheaper. TL1917SL K-Type Inconel 600 Flexible Thermocouple Temperature Sensor Probes -40~2012°F that might work for aluminum its around $40 on amazon. You still might find one less expensive if you look hard.
Thank you for the reply. I was seeing a lot of them for over $500.
Você fez ou comprou esta areia? Há um vídeo no canal com a receita?
I purchased the sand from Amazon online. Its Teton petrobond 190mesh. I haven't seen it in a large discounted size in a while. Just smaller sizes for higher prices. Thanks for watching my video.
@@DamonsMetalCasting thank you very much
Good Job, Nice Video. Thanks !!!!
Thanks for watching and the feedback!
Hey damon id like to see you attempt cast wrestling title belt cast an oject with a curve would a neat process to see demonstrated
Challenge accepted. I got an idea I could do but I have a few videos inline before I get to that. I definitely appreciate the feed back for what people would like to see. Thanks for watching.
I'm new to sandcasting. Every time I fill the mold with the delft clay and pound it down, the clay will "split" open on the mold. Usually it splits in a different part of the mold, that I'm pounding. I hammering the clay in fairly hard. Is it possible I'm doing it too hard? I just can't understand what's causing this. When I turn the mold over, the bottom of the mold is nice and smooth. Can you please tell me what could be wrong? Thank you in advance.
I have not used Delft clay before so I will just throw out some guesses that might help. One issue could be if its been used up and has a lot of burnt binder in it preventing it from being able to stick together. It might need better mixing/mulling. Maybe a bad batch from the manufacturer? I have pounded the heck out of my sand(Petrobond) and made a real hard layer, then the next layer on top doesn't want to combine to the first layer and peels off. I have seen people scratch up the hard layer even with a hair pic so it can combine easier with the next layer added. Sorry I couldn't help more. Its difficult when not hands on with a problem and only throwing out guess. Good luck!
@@DamonsMetalCasting Thanks for the reply. I just bought the clay, so it's never been used. Maybe it is a bad batch. Thank you.
@@scotts4134 You can also look at videos online of people who use deft clay and see if its similar consistency and works the same.
Happy New Year! I've just discovered your channel and wondering if you offer the 3D Printing File of the V8 Emblem?
Send me an email. Also I have a video that shows conversion of 2d black and white clip art to 3d
Looking good
Thank you
Did you make the flask? What are the dimensions, because I want to cast flat sterling silver pendants around 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick and that flask looks the right depth, as opposed to most of the ones on Amazon which are deeper.
Yup, I made the flask from wood on my table saw. The outer flask dimensions are 9" long, 5" wide and one half of the flask is 1.25" deep. The total depth of both halves together would be 2.5". The inner dimensions are 7.5" long and about 4.25" wide. The ends have thick wood on them so I can screw the sides in and attach a handles. I agree, I like using flasks that are closer to the dimensions of the part I am casting. Thanks for watching my video!
Bạn làm hay đó.
Thank you.
By far one of the most smooth casting I've seen here on UA-cam. Well done. Can you tell something about the metal you're using? Is it just alumnium or an alloy with some zinc in it or something?
Thanks! Yup the aluminum is an alloy I am not sure of the exact alloy number since I get it from salvaged car parts that have been previously cast. Cast car rims work well, and so do cast engine intake manifolds. This type of aluminum contains silicon to help it become more fluid. Aluminum that was machined like the common 6061 or another type used for soda cans are terrible for casting. Just look for a source that has already been cast and it will probably work well. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@DamonsMetalCasting Awesome! Thank you
“The smoother the pattern, the smoother the casting…”
You want smooth (and as hard) as glass….
useful info
Thanks
mint badge
Try using lime powder..
I will see what I can do when I run across some. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
What's that sand u used plz?
Teton-Bond Petrobond Ultra-FINE (190 Mesh) Casting Sand. Thanks for watching my video.
@@DamonsMetalCasting thanks
0:00 Bethesda npcs when i talk to them
LOL! yeah you got me on that one.
Sir ur sand recipe,plz tell❤❤
I wish I knew the recipe. I had purchased this sand from a supplier. Its Teton-Bond Petrobond Ultra-FINE (190 Mesh). I do use a small amount of brand new sand for the facing sand. The rest of the sand for packing up the flask is reused from previous castings. I also try and remove as much as possible of the burnt sand from the used sand too. Thanks for watching my videos.
THANKS, HOWEVER, IMHO: MOST PEOPLE DO NOT HAVE "3D PRINTING" EQUIPMENT, SO, PERHAPS SHOW SOME "OLD SCHOOL" CARVING, AND "PATTERN MAKING" METHODS...?!...
[SUGGESTION: USE A LOT MORE AMBIENT LIGHTING, IN FUTURE VIDEOS. SO THE DETAILS WILL BE EASIER TO SEE.]
Thanks for your feed back, I will try and add more light. Honestly, I am probably stuck with using the 3D printer because of my lack of artistic skills. I have Zero skills for carving. I also plan to distribute some of my original 3d print pattern STL files which I can't do if I carve by hand either. The used 3d printers of Facebook market place and craigslist are selling for as low as $100. I do agree 100% that watching the old school pattern making is great but I am just lacking in the skill to be able to do that and time to learn.
That is something entirely different! The title doesn’t read SCULPTING and casting
If you’re unable to find a way of making your own objects to place within a mould or just duplicating something, then you’re obviously not very bright 🙃
Who types in CAPS honestly 🥸
It's ridiculous to expect every content creator to work around the restrictions of what the viewers may or may not have. The entitlement of people is mind boggling.
@@chrisgenovese8188 Yup I agree, they should really have the mindset of it being a benefit to have the ability to experience something they can't or don't want to invest in. I will never be able to purchase a sports car like a Ferrari, but I can have an experience of watching and learning about one that somebody shared in their video.
Dude, you aren't ordering a pizza. Since you have so many suggestions do your own video.
Talc: Cancer and neuropathy
Deeelicious
I use talc with a dust mask and only use talc sparingly for the part to be cast in the sand. Baby power which is now corn starch works well enough for me to use as parting powder since I literally have to dust it on all over the drag for the sand casting. I have read that on the internet there is more of a link to cancer exposure with talc that has contaminates of asbestos included in it. This was taken from cancercenter.com "According to the American Cancer Society, some studies have suggested that workers who mine or mill talc may be at increased risk of lung cancer, but other studies show no link. These workers are also likely to be exposed to other minerals and elements that are known to be carcinogenic, such as asbestos and radon, making it more difficult to assess how much of the risk is associated specifically with talc. The ACS states that additional research is needed into whether a connection exists between talcum powder and endometrial cancer for women who are post-menopausal." I strongly suggest that people should do their own research before coming to their own conclusion if Talcum powder is something they should use.