I watch 3 other videos on how to install grab bars in a tile shower. None of the other 3 videos said anything about use silicone to prevent water leaking into the walls. Obviously this guys a REAL pro and not just an paid installer.
These screws are real easy to strip the heads then your f d…so once your screws are set don’t bother with silicone very little to no water come close to those ends….if your worried about that don’t unscrew those screws and f with the holes just goop up the flange and tap the cover or caulk around the cover. I’ve done lots of these ..never any leaks of water damage. This guy is being super cautious which is ok. I’m a remodeler .. I put blocking all around showers and baths so you don’t have to hunt for studs for rails or glass door hinges….
I had to comment on here. I came back and searched for this video just to post this. Because of this video I was 100% confident in doing it on my own. Saved my father in law (who just recently had a stroke) 400+$ in installation. Got 4 of them installed by the toilet, as well as the shower. Ended up buying a better stud finder just to be safe on behalf of where is shower was located. AMAZING VIDEO! Thank you so much for making this super simple to understand. Measure twice, level twice, drill once!
I have found a stud finder (any stud finder) to be unreliable when trying to use it through tile. The best things that I have found when trying to find a stud through tile are a rare earth magnet on a string and, to confirm, a handheld metal detector. What you are looking for are the screws that are used to attach drywall or backerboard to the studs. Using this method I have always reliably found the studs.
As a DIY'er both around the house and on the car, I've seen 98% lame videos when trying to get help. Shaky cameras, poor angles, terrible sound, horrible light and worst of all, 3 minutes of BS introduction. This video is top-notch. Notice there aren't any thumbs down votes, something I've never seen before. Coincidentally, that's the exact bar (even size-wise) that my friend asked me to install in her shower. I told her I didn't want to do it because it's a spectacular house and I'm terrified of cracking the tile. After seeing this video, I just might give it a try. Thanks for the real-world help and... SUPERB JOB ON THE VIDEO MR. CLS!
Thank you! Excellent tips on how to use two different diameter drill bits, one for porcelain and one for wood. Also the angled screws. The 16 inch stud thing is a problem in an older home line mine. But I've used a stud finder before with good luck and hoping I can do the same for the tile. I can access the back wall or perhaps look in the basement since it's on the first floor. Also liked the silicone tips and demo. I knew to use it but you showed how. I haven't started yet, still want to watch a few more videos to solidify the method I'll use.
Thank you. My mom just had a stroke the the occupational therapist prescribed these. Funny, I amazoned deep sensor stud finder and the picture popped up. I already own one😂
The day you measure 16 inches from a known stud to locate the adjacent studs will be the day you learn the framer, for whatever reason, deviated from standard practice. Always use a quality stud finder, or, better yet, something such as Moen’s Secure Mount system, which does not rely on stud attachment.
thanks for the mention of Moen’s Secure Mount system. Off to google! I don’t know that I’ll have conveniently placed studs for the ones I need to install.
@@talleysuehohlfeld3959 I have installed six Moen grab bars in three bathrooms, on tile and drywall walls, and the Moen anchors worked flawlessly. They do require a large hole, and a diamond bit for tile. But regardless of what is behind the mounting points - studs or no studs - they work. Measure very carefully for spacing as the mounts are not very tolerant of errors. And tile or drywall, drill just enough to cut the material. There was a copper pipe behind one of my holes, but it was undamaged. It in no way should have been there, but plumbers and framers do whatever they want.
@@thardyryll That’s so helpful! I watched a Moen video, and they made no mention of how they waterproofed the holes. Is there some rubber backing on the plate, or something? What did you do?
@@talleysuehohlfeld3959 In my case four of the six bars are outside the shower/bath area and mounted on drywall, so there is no need for any sort of sealing. (One bar also is a towel bar, so there is absolutely no need for sealing.) in addition, the two bars mounted on tile are in a home where the sole occupant is a 90-year-old widow who uses the bathtub, never the shower. The Moen mounts have a thin piece of white foam material attached to the base plate. While it might serve as a seal of some sort, I found that the material, which is self-adhesive, had to be peeled off and discarded because it interfered with the ability of three very short screws to hold the assembly together. Silicone, as used in the video, could be used. All that said, the likelihood of a sufficient amount of water getting through a tightly clamped system like this and doing damage is near zero. And, in that what they used to call waterproof drywall is never used (or should never be used) any more behind tile, in favor of indestructible cementious board such as Hardibacker, there just isn’t a risk there.
Nice explanation with some great tips. We had one "professionally" installed in a remodeled bathroom about 8 years back. But as time passed it appears the screws used to install the grab bar rusted so badly that rust runoff is now running down the tile! This also means that the overall strength of the screws will deteriorate over time depending on the rate of rust on the screws themselves. Although not as strong, stainless steel hardware might perhaps be a wiser choice for installation rather that the usually supplied zinc coated steel screws to reduce potential rust and ultimate failure of the zinc-steel screws. Any comments regarding this suggestion?
Are you sure they were zinc ? Stainless steel can rust , which the more corrosion resistant grades are often to soft to keep from stripping the screw heads. But even still ... properly coating all the screw surfaces should keep that from happening . Also are you sure it isn't the mounting plate that is rusting ? Anyways ... try replacing 1 screw at a time ... and keep in mind each end may only have 1 screw in wood , with the others using anchors of some kind. Start with a screwdriver , not drill .
Please play violin music in background before reading this. Shower grab bar total disaster. Able to find nails by swinging magnet from string. 3/16 carbide tipped drill doesn’t do anything. Went to HD and got 3/16 diamond tipped drill for $19. Got through one hole after about 1”, hit empty space, and then enough wood for about 3/4” of the screw- enough. Then did second hole on top and then nothing. Poking a wire hanger inside hits insulation. Ok, maybe another hole on bottom of bar is enough. Diamond drill got through 1/4” and then wouldn’t go any further. So $19 buys you two holes with a diamond tipped drill. Have to buy another drill to finish off the third hole and hope to hit something to bite into. The nail indications were not a 2x4. Who knows? Then the pleasant thought hit me, if you do hit an electrical line you wouldn’t know till you took a shower. Yes, I know, you could ck with a non-contact voltage tester. I did. Will run it out now with another drill. If I do get it attached, I will refuse to use it out of sheer hatred. Get someone to do it? Handle bar installation runs from $80 to $600 with an avg of $360. How do you know they won’t hit an electric or water line? You might not know and water could soak inside of walls. Builder knows but they won’t tell you. One of my favorites from Ecclesiastes: In much wisdom is much grief. And he who increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. And I don’t even drink anymore. If you do, have one for me. I prefer scotch.
I get your humor...I wanted to let you know that there's someone out there laughing at your post and appreciating your verbosity! (FYI..keeping the diamond bit damp every few seconds may...have prevented the issue). Hope you found a suitable resolution!
@@dondacombs9635 Thanks for the sympathyi. Eventually got through to what felt like solid wood and was able to screw down solidly. For the fourth hole I just used plastic anchor and screw. I’ve been told that works for all holes but I wouldn’t trust it. Still alive and walls not flooding.
@@wernerhartl2069 As a Handyman that started doing fix-it jobs 30ish years ago. Your explanation sounds like situations I have experienced many times on all kinds of job types. And actually I think I only installed a grab bar on a tile surface twice maybe , many years ago ? Hence after doing jobs this many years , I know to be cautious , and why I am here to get some pointers. (which this guys video is pretty darn good imho) But I have to say , knowing how horribly wrong some particular situation can go wrong. I am leaning to telling the ole lady she needs to hire someone specializing in this sort of thing. Because she is already worried about the tile , and I don't want to worry about her slipping pulling the bar out. I appreciate you mentioning to imagine violin music while reading , hence I don't want to be hearing that later . . . hehe Thanks ;)
So what do you do if you live in Florida and there are no regular studs just metal studs that are pain in the ass and our exterior walls are all cinder block
If it is a tile covered wall, and the wall is built properly, I'd suggest using 3 Toggler brand alligator anchors at each end of the bar and not worrying about where studs are. Also, don't use a hammer drill when drilling into tile.
If you use the alligator anchors, approximately how much weight do you think the grab bar will hold? We have the same situation where the exterior wall is just the outside of the house and we are in Florida as well so I don't know if there is a strong enough stud finder to find studs behind tiles
I mean if you drill into the cinderblock use tapcon screws. Then you absolutely never need to care about studs. The block wall holds up the house! My primary concern with all this drilling is compromising the waterproof layer
I need to have these installed in my bathroom. I already have everything needed, just I don't have anyone to install it. Any suggestions? I live in NYC.
Do you have any suggestions for getting the screw cover trim ring to stay on the bracket? Mine keeps popping off the little tabs. I've tried pounding it into place with a rubber mallet but I can't get it to stay. Thanks!
You can use some silicone to just adhere it in place. Pull the cover back, then apply a couple generous dots of silicone, then push the cover back in place into the silicone.
This is the best video on installing a grab rail on tile on youtube. The others didn't bother to locate a stud which is vital. Well done.
I watch 3 other videos on how to install grab bars in a tile shower. None of the other 3 videos said anything about use silicone to prevent water leaking into the walls. Obviously this guys a REAL pro and not just an paid installer.
True, don’t want water seeping behind the anchors causing water damage, even I knew that.
These screws are real easy to strip the heads then your f d…so once your screws are set don’t bother with silicone very little to no water come close to those ends….if your worried about that don’t unscrew those screws and f with the holes just goop up the flange and tap the cover or caulk around the cover. I’ve done lots of these ..never any leaks of water damage. This guy is being super cautious which is ok. I’m a remodeler .. I put blocking all around showers and baths so you don’t have to hunt for studs for rails or glass door hinges….
I had to comment on here. I came back and searched for this video just to post this. Because of this video I was 100% confident in doing it on my own. Saved my father in law (who just recently had a stroke) 400+$ in installation. Got 4 of them installed by the toilet, as well as the shower. Ended up buying a better stud finder just to be safe on behalf of where is shower was located. AMAZING VIDEO! Thank you so much for making this super simple to understand. Measure twice, level twice, drill once!
I am glad it helped you out.
This was the most informative video, covers everything from finding stud Location to silicone for waterproofing optimizing no damage to the tile
Excellent explanation of all the necessary steps.
Glad it was helpful!
I have found a stud finder (any stud finder) to be unreliable when trying to use it through tile. The best things that I have found when trying to find a stud through tile are a rare earth magnet on a string and, to confirm, a handheld metal detector. What you are looking for are the screws that are used to attach drywall or backerboard to the studs. Using this method I have always reliably found the studs.
As a DIY'er both around the house and on the car, I've seen 98% lame videos when trying to get help. Shaky cameras, poor angles, terrible sound, horrible light and worst of all, 3 minutes of BS introduction. This video is top-notch. Notice there aren't any thumbs down votes, something I've never seen before. Coincidentally, that's the exact bar (even size-wise) that my friend asked me to install in her shower. I told her I didn't want to do it because it's a spectacular house and I'm terrified of cracking the tile. After seeing this video, I just might give it a try. Thanks for the real-world help and... SUPERB JOB ON THE VIDEO MR. CLS!
Thank you
Thank you! Excellent tips on how to use two different diameter drill bits, one for porcelain and one for wood. Also the angled screws.
The 16 inch stud thing is a problem in an older home line mine. But I've used a stud finder before with good luck and hoping I can do the same for the tile. I can access the back wall or perhaps look in the basement since it's on the first floor. Also liked the silicone tips and demo. I knew to use it but you showed how.
I haven't started yet, still want to watch a few more videos to solidify the method I'll use.
Thank you. My mom just had a stroke the the occupational therapist prescribed these. Funny, I amazoned deep sensor stud finder and the picture popped up. I already own one😂
This is a great detailed tutorial. Very professional. Thank you
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Great video, clear instructions, was good a noting risks and hints on how to avoid mistakes. Thanks for the help!
Very good education. Thank you. Very detailed.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent description for this installation, thank you for the tips.
That was awesome!!! I feel super confident to do this now!!
Great video, thank you for posting.
Well done. Clear and informative. Thanks
The day you measure 16 inches from a known stud to locate the adjacent studs will be the day you learn the framer, for whatever reason, deviated from standard practice. Always use a quality stud finder, or, better yet, something such as Moen’s Secure Mount system, which does not rely on stud attachment.
thanks for the mention of Moen’s Secure Mount system. Off to google! I don’t know that I’ll have conveniently placed studs for the ones I need to install.
@@talleysuehohlfeld3959 I have installed six Moen grab bars in three bathrooms, on tile and drywall walls, and the Moen anchors worked flawlessly. They do require a large hole, and a diamond bit for tile. But regardless of what is behind the mounting points - studs or no studs - they work. Measure very carefully for spacing as the mounts are not very tolerant of errors. And tile or drywall, drill just enough to cut the material. There was a copper pipe behind one of my holes, but it was undamaged. It in no way should have been there, but plumbers and framers do whatever they want.
@@thardyryll That’s so helpful! I watched a Moen video, and they made no mention of how they waterproofed the holes. Is there some rubber backing on the plate, or something? What did you do?
@@talleysuehohlfeld3959 In my case four of the six bars are outside the shower/bath area and mounted on drywall, so there is no need for any sort of sealing. (One bar also is a towel bar, so there is absolutely no need for sealing.) in addition, the two bars mounted on tile are in a home where the sole occupant is a 90-year-old widow who uses the bathtub, never the shower.
The Moen mounts have a thin piece of white foam material attached to the base plate. While it might serve as a seal of some sort, I found that the material, which is self-adhesive, had to be peeled off and discarded because it interfered with the ability of three very short screws to hold the assembly together. Silicone, as used in the video, could be used.
All that said, the likelihood of a sufficient amount of water getting through a tightly clamped system like this and doing damage is near zero. And, in that what they used to call waterproof drywall is never used (or should never be used) any more behind tile, in favor of indestructible cementious board such as Hardibacker, there just isn’t a risk there.
Fine job with clear video and instructions. Thanks so much!
I’ve been a subscriber and this video is the very best! Nice work & great information.
Nice explanation with some great tips. We had one "professionally" installed in a remodeled bathroom about 8 years back. But as time passed it appears the screws used to install the grab bar rusted so badly that rust runoff is now running down the tile! This also means that the overall strength of the screws will deteriorate over time depending on the rate of rust on the screws themselves. Although not as strong, stainless steel hardware might perhaps be a wiser choice for installation rather that the usually supplied zinc coated steel screws to reduce potential rust and ultimate failure of the zinc-steel screws. Any comments regarding this suggestion?
Are you sure they were zinc ? Stainless steel can rust , which the more corrosion resistant grades are often to soft to keep from stripping the screw heads.
But even still ... properly coating all the screw surfaces should keep that from happening .
Also are you sure it isn't the mounting plate that is rusting ?
Anyways ... try replacing 1 screw at a time ... and keep in mind each end may only have 1 screw in wood , with the others using anchors of some kind.
Start with a screwdriver , not drill .
Should not rust if siliconed no moisture can get back that if point of contacts are good.
Nice. Thank you!!!
Thank you
Thank you. Very good detail
great job
Idk if this is dumb but, putting a plastic anchor in also reinforce the bar would it help
Please play violin music in background before reading this.
Shower grab bar total disaster.
Able to find nails by swinging magnet from string. 3/16 carbide tipped drill doesn’t do anything. Went to HD and got 3/16 diamond tipped drill for $19. Got through one hole after about 1”, hit empty space, and then enough wood for about 3/4” of the screw- enough. Then did second hole on top and then nothing. Poking a wire hanger inside hits insulation. Ok, maybe another hole on bottom of bar is enough. Diamond drill got through 1/4” and then wouldn’t go any further. So $19 buys you two holes with a diamond tipped drill. Have to buy another drill to finish off the third hole and hope to hit something to bite into. The nail indications were not a 2x4. Who knows?
Then the pleasant thought hit me, if you do hit an electrical line you wouldn’t know till you took a shower. Yes, I know, you could ck with a non-contact voltage tester. I did.
Will run it out now with another drill. If I do get it attached, I will refuse to use it out of sheer hatred.
Get someone to do it? Handle bar installation runs from $80 to $600 with an avg of $360.
How do you know they won’t hit an electric or water line? You might not know and water could soak inside of walls. Builder knows but they won’t tell you.
One of my favorites from Ecclesiastes:
In much wisdom is much grief.
And he who increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow.
And I don’t even drink anymore. If you do, have one for me. I prefer scotch.
This guy is a disaster. He should never try a diy. What he should do is find a dark cave and live there.
I get your humor...I wanted to let you know that there's someone out there laughing at your post and appreciating your verbosity! (FYI..keeping the diamond bit damp every few seconds may...have prevented the issue). Hope you found a suitable resolution!
@@dondacombs9635 Thanks for the sympathyi. Eventually got through to what felt like solid wood and was able to screw down solidly. For the fourth hole I just used plastic anchor and screw. I’ve been told that works for all holes but I wouldn’t trust it. Still alive and walls not flooding.
@@wernerhartl2069 As a Handyman that started doing fix-it jobs 30ish years ago.
Your explanation sounds like situations I have experienced many times on all kinds of job types. And actually I think I only installed a grab bar on a tile surface twice maybe , many years ago ? Hence after doing jobs this many years , I know to be cautious , and why I am here to get some pointers. (which this guys video is pretty darn good imho)
But I have to say , knowing how horribly wrong some particular situation can go wrong.
I am leaning to telling the ole lady she needs to hire someone specializing in this sort of thing. Because she is already worried about the tile , and I don't want to worry about her slipping pulling the bar out.
I appreciate you mentioning to imagine violin music while reading , hence I don't want to be hearing that later . . . hehe Thanks ;)
DO NOT hammer drill...it's ceramic, not cement or brick. Straight drill.
Thanks!
Came to the comments to check why a hammer drill function was "needed"
that’s interesting! I hadn’t thought of that. I would have to buy a drill with hammer capability. So maybe I don’t need to
@@talleysuehohlfeld3959 Regular drill with ceramic spade bit or diamond bit for ceramic.
So what do you do if you live in Florida and there are no regular studs just metal studs that are pain in the ass and our exterior walls are all cinder block
If it is a tile covered wall, and the wall is built properly, I'd suggest using 3 Toggler brand alligator anchors at each end of the bar and not worrying about where studs are. Also, don't use a hammer drill when drilling into tile.
@@windsorrocks thanks that's exactly what I did and it worked well
If you use the alligator anchors, approximately how much weight do you think the grab bar will hold? We have the same situation where the exterior wall is just the outside of the house and we are in Florida as well so I don't know if there is a strong enough stud finder to find studs behind tiles
I mean if you drill into the cinderblock use tapcon screws. Then you absolutely never need to care about studs. The block wall holds up the house! My primary concern with all this drilling is compromising the waterproof layer
I need to have these installed in my bathroom. I already have everything needed, just I don't have anyone to install it. Any suggestions? I live in NYC.
Great product for your bumm
If I have a walk in shower how many inches from floor should I install bar?
How much did you charge for this project?
I think many people need to know the How To if it goes onto an OUTSIDE WALL...how to find Stud?
Do you have any suggestions for getting the screw cover trim ring to stay on the bracket? Mine keeps popping off the little tabs. I've tried pounding it into place with a rubber mallet but I can't get it to stay. Thanks!
You can use some silicone to just adhere it in place. Pull the cover back, then apply a couple generous dots of silicone, then push the cover back in place into the silicone.
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One Thanks! I'll give that a try.
How do you remove the covers of the safety bar? I can't get them loose?
They just pry off. Use a flat blade screwdriver to from the base.
Can't always locate the stud. No access to the back of the wall.
I have that same stud finder and itll find a stud but then the stud apparently moves through the wall. I dont trust it