How to replace spark plugs on a 5.4L Ford F150 part 2: Driver's side
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Part two of this two part series covers the replacement of the driver’s side spark plugs on a 2000 5.4L Ford F150. Watch a home mechanic tackle these difficult to access plugs. Additional challenges are an object lodged in the plug cavity and a badly stuck-on boot. For text and still pictures of this procedure see: www.originalmec...
Congratulations your the only guy I've seen do this without pulling the fuel rails . I have a 2001 5.4 and only have cylinder 7 & 8 left to do and it is possible withou pulling the rail. Thanks for the video. I'm a believer!
Yeah I never really considered pulling the fuel rails. Thanks for watching and giving me the feedback!
This video was very helpful. I changed my driver side this Saturday and have a couple tips that helped me that might be easier than what you did.
First I was able to use a 1/4 inch drive short 7mm socket, swivel, 3 inch extension and ratchet to loosen the coil screws on both cylinders 7 and 8 (the back 2). Retrieved the screws with a magnet on a telescoping stick.
Second I used 3/8 drive extensions, a 3 inch on the socket, another 3 inch, 3 inch wobbler and then a 6 inch. This got me up pass the hoses and pipes, etc and put me right at a workable spot for cylinder 8. It also allowed me to use a 3/8 or 1/2 drive (with adapter) ratchet.
Both videos were good thank you. Hope my suggestions help.
Good detailed tips. Thanks for sharing.
Gonna try this on my 4.6 I did 1-6 a couple months ago coilpacks & plugs very easy and simple till I got to 7 and 8 and realized everything was slipping I’m guessing previously whoever did them might’ve stripped the coilpack bolts but not really sure because #7 is hard to get on because the fuel rail but I’ll attempt it again it’s been driving me nuts
Thanks for the video, my dad was going to take his 2002 F150 to a mechanic for the plugs but they wanted 300. I watched both videos and we got it done.
You're welcome, Great to hear the videos helped.
Your the man. I have been looking all over trying to find out how to change the last back 2 on the drivers side. Now I will just have to just go change the last 2 on this ford. Thanks for the help, cause you have helped me a lot. All the other videos was saying to remove the fuel rail and other stuff. Just wish they would have made these ford engines a little better and easier to work on. Thanks again
its my understanding that these are famous for being a pain and i have been looking at doing this for awhile. my wifes old boss paid over 700 dollars to have plugs changed and im not gonna do that. This is the best demo i have found for my engine specifically and it made me feel like I can tackle this. thanks for the vid, great job
+Bill Zimmerman $700 does seem way high for this job. Sure it's tough for plugs but it's not $700 tough. Good luck with it and thanks for the good words.
+The Original Mechanic got the drivers side done today, went just like you showed. took me 5 hours, but dont tell anyone.....
Hey Fella! This Video was GREAT. It was not way easy to do. I had to change #8 plug. Your video saved me a ton of money and time taking it to a shop! The #8 plug had managed to actually back completely out of the motor. IT was fully intact when I pulled out the coil pack.
Great video, this gave me some ideas for sure. A must for the third coil plug bolt is removing the exhaust tube or swiveling it out of the way. his opens up the pathway. I used a 7mm wrench because I didn't have a 1/4 shorty socket. The fourth I used the 7mm wrench on the firewall side of the bolt to remove. I also used a telescoping magnet to grab all the bolts. Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing your helpful ideas for completing this frustrating job.
Helpful video. I'm going to do this on thursday, day off. I bought my 2003 F150 a year ago and it has 130k on it, never had a plug change, so after the coil packs are off I'm going to spray wd-40 in and let it set for an hour then remove plugs. Btw, the dealer wants $480 to change the plugs and various garages around town want $440. Crazy prices.
And who even knows if they'll actually change the #8 plug or take the time to blow out and around to get the debris away
Best f150 from driver side video in my opinion.....hands down
It's absolutely ridiculous what you have to go through to change out a set of spark plugs...Thank you for the video.
On cylinder 7 or the third one I just pulled the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail then i could wiggle it to the side enough. I did have to use 15-20” of extension and a ujoint adapter but it worked
Well done!
Thank you for showing us how complicating it is to change your own spark plugs! This was by far the best demo we have seen! Great job, and I hope your truck is running smoothly again! We have to do the same thing, but I don't want to pay $250 to get it changed by a dealer!! I like working on trucks, and I want to try doing this myself! I wrote down every tool you stated, and I love a challenge! I think it looks fun, but hubby thinks it looks difficult, and doesn't want to do it.... :( We will see lol!
+Kaitlyn Smith $250 is a lot for spark plugs but this is labor intensive job. I hope all goes well if you decide to tackle it (I always do). Thanks for watching and commenting!
I know! That's why I want to tackle this job. The fuel rail on each side are the biggest problems we will face....
fuel rails have two bolts holding them just pull them and pop the rail off the injector o-ring fuel will spill so NO SMOKING while doing it this way. makes it alot easier. carefull with the o-rings and make sure they are there when reassembling it .
you probably did the job since ur post was 8 months ago. so this is for future repairs and jobs.
just got done doing a coil pack and plug change on my 03 f150 fx4 5.4 this is the most helpful video i came across great details in the video I was actually able to get the back coil pack bolt out in between the fuel rail
Nice work. Thanks for watching and commenting!
im lucky had my mechanic at work do all my coilpaks we used your vid as a guideline thanks he mostly works on big diesel trucks said this job was a pain
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting and glad you made use of the video
For #7 ingnition coil, put universal joint on the end of a 6" extension and aim it until it touches the bolt. Then, carefully straighten the universal with the resistance from the bolt and clamp down until the universal is on. Doesn't always work the first try lol. When putting it back, put the bolt back in the coil hole first.
Miss my 76 CJ7 Jeep. I could take a nap and do engine work, when I woke up. All while standing inside engine compartment straight 6.
I went and got some REALLY LONG handled needle nose pliers for all that back stuff which helped quite a bit when I did my 97 5.4L. Menards had em.
I just did a 2000 F150. It is as much a hassle as this video shows. I used multiple extensions, a Universal Joint and a magnet on a stick. I didn't have any plugs break. I would suggest doing the coils while you are at it if you have any question as to whether they work or not.
Other than being tedious and time consuming, the process was fairly straight forward. It took me about 4 hours from start to finish. A large portion of the time was simply trying to find the right combination of extensions to make it possible to remove the plugs.
I gladly paid for new coils to avoid pulling them off again -- $30 for generic or $70 for Motorcraft is chump change compared to an unexpected repair away from home.
Yeah thanks becuase i saw your video i was able to get the last coil pack on the driver side on my 98 ford f150 5.4L v8 without removing the fuel rail i was also having trouble with the fuel pressure regulator blocking the screw on coil number seven
I have done about 6 plug changes on the 2v 5.4 over the years on different trucks I've owned. This is a 2 hour job start to finish once you realize what you have to remove and what you don't. Most importantly torque the plugs to 28 ft lbs then the risk of spitting a plug is gone. Good job though on your plug replacement I enjoyed both part 1 and 2
Thanks for adding these helpful details.
I take it, the 1998 will spit plugs, the later models will have stuck plugs?
You my sir helped me out.....so much
I used a rubber vacuum hose pushed on the end of the spark plug to start the thread instead of grabber.
Amazing how the designers or engineers (not sure who's responsible for the actual layout; perhaps both to a degree) can create the engine specs but fail to consider the preventative and necessary maintenance. Why not try to design/engineer with this maintenance in mind. It makes the design harder but at some point people will shy away thinking "X brand is to difficult to work on". Ive always bought Ford trucks but my next purchase will definitely include "workability"; especially since I'm gettin' to old for this shizz.
Thats the point. They design it so you have to pay someone else to maintain it.
You look like you have so much more room in your engine bay, I feel as if I have sooo many hoses and wires and lines and it makes it difficult, glad I found this video cause I probably would've NEVER found a way to get 3 and 4 coil packs in the back out with a wrench, I used a swivel attachment and a deep socket 7MM for the fourth coil pack and almost got it but i think it's been stripped
Glad you were able to make use of this video.
Yall made this seem way harder than it is... I was worried because the guys at work were like Goodluck Goodluck. Mannn this shit looks easy compared to volkswagens.
Also, run a can of sea foam at 1/4 tank to loosen corrosion on spark plugs that strips the threads out of head.
very nice video.
You should have used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 1/4 inch universal on those hard to reach 7 mm coil bolts it would have been a lot easier. On the rear coil bolts I also had a magnet handy and put that next to the bolt when loosing them so they don't drop down into the engine. A 7 mm box end ratchet wrench will help too.
Good tips! Thanks for sharing ways to make this frustrating job easier.
#7 plug the fuel regulator is in the way
Leave the screw in the coil, carefully set it in there, use a long 1/4" drive wobbly extension not a wrench.
I changed my plugs and packs 1-6 on my 4.6 and as far as 7 and 8 tried attempting several times but I’m guessing just over time or whoever did them previously stripped the bolt head on the coil packs and I can’t figure out how in the hell to get them out especially on #7 cylinder… Any ideas I don’t wanna pull the fuel rail
Sorry if I missed in video but did you install plugs dry at 20 ft lbs?
I have a 2005 f150 triton, my first coil on the driver side up front towards the radiator is loose,where the screw hole is its broken.but the screw is still in the cole where its suppose to be any way to repair this with out a big fix.thanks in advance.
I am trying to change my trucks spark plugs but I only could take one out because it's stuck I think the last mechanic fast it so hard
Use kana kroil penetrant to loosen for a night. Then use the loosen method slowly and then spray more kroil. Tighten a little bit then loose slowly again all the way this time. Guarantee to work unless porcelian of spark plug is broke inside cylinder head
Isn't the first plug on driver side near front the number 5 cylinder
The left bank is numbered sequentially 1-4 (front to back). The right bank is 5-8 (front to back).
Hate to say it but this was one of the most tedious things I have ever had to do on a vehicle in 30+ years. Luckily I have thin fingers and hands. Said quite a few curse words aimed towards Ford design engineers. That third plug on the drivers side and the fourth plug on the passenger side.....loss for words. The fourth plug on passenger side with the plug angled toward the firewall was ridiculous. Being that you are already not in a good position by being up on top of the engine, it's a demanding job. Be careful when you torque the plugs. Remember, original Ford spec of 13 ft lbs torque is now considered wrong by Ford mechanics and should be torqued to anywhere from 23 to 25 Ft lbs torque to prevent backing out due to very small thread engagement with the head.
Imagine number 3 sparkplug on drivers side, coil bolt stripped! Had to tap it out with a thin long chisel. Laying across the engine! Son of a bitc$! Penetrating spray helped.
Cut a straight line in the bolt head with chisel 1st. Then tap bolt head Conterclockwise. Using different force with hammer. Tap until loose. I also filed some of the bolt head straight. Was able then to get a socket on it. Finish removing with fingers. Hope this helps someone, someday.
Am about to do this tomorrow Dec 9 2018and not even half way motivated for all the staff that is on the way counting I live in Chicago and the weather is just cold
Seems like u could have removed alot of things to assist you. Also some speed wrenches are worth there weight in gold.
did you remove the fuel rail ?
I did not. I have heard that some others do though.
Does the engine need re-timing after the coil packs are changed?
No
I have to do this to mine now that its throwing a misfire code. It just so happens to be 105 degrees here and i dont have ac in my shop. this is gonna suck!
A friend of mine had a devil of time finding the reason for that code. It turned out to be a coil pack. Good luck and try to stay cool. This time of the year is when we have it good in the north. 82 degrees here today.
A socket works a lot better for that 3rd coil
Yes has to been a small not deepsocket like he had
Oh yeah, exc vid.
thanks for the tips ,not looking forward doing mine, thanks
Terrible video quality