E92 M3 Rod Bearing Replacement - What It Takes Start to Finish
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Wile Motorsport in Walpole, MA shows us how to replace the Rod Bearings and Motor Mounts start to finish on a 2010 BMW E92 M3.
Often the cause of catastrophic engine failure, the OEM bearings must be replaced.
www.wilemotors...
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Thanks to Wile Motorsport for the incredible work. Find them on their website www.wilemotorsport.com/ or instagram @wilemotorsport to service your BMW, Porsche, and Mini
Can you please tell me the brand and weight oil you are using? Thank you
@@orestwolfgang556 Up until this video I had been using BMW's 10w60. For the first time here I used liquimoly 10w60.
@@TedwardDrives Thanks for the reply, like you I like solid information. I have an an E92 m3 with 50K and was wondering if you heard anything about running thinner oil? I've heard alot about this but its a friend of a friend type of deal. I appreciate and look forward to you response. Thanks
Respect
@@orestwolfgang556 I would recommend against running anything but 10w60. There's more than just bearings relying on the viscosity of the oil. The pumps, Vanos, channels etc are all designed to work with 10w60. When you make a fundamental change, you can upset the entire system. If you're concerned about cold starts, get a block warmer for the winter.
It’s amazing how efficient professional mechanics are, the first two minutes of the video would’ve taken me two days.
I would have called you crying at least 4 times
Having the proper tools and environment does wonders.
Tools also make a huge difference
Flat rate. It’s how we multiply our hourly rate.
Its not the mechanic, but their shop setup that makes them this efficient.
Nothing like watching someone who knows what they're doing......
Lol he’s a scrub. Should release the caps more evenly.
Also he’s rubbing his fingers all over the crank, sheesh.
Engine looks incredibly clean ! Can’t believe the bearings only last that long. What a “maintenance”
I know it’s a sad truth. One reason I think it’s really important to show the reality of ownership before people get in over their heads. You can find these cars for under 20k but that cost of entry could really get some folks into trouble
I was eagerly awaiting this video. I always find it interesting to see rod bearings coming out of the S65 and S85! Fantastic work. Perfect length of video and the details of the job are awesome.
Being a do it yourselfer, I have completely lost interest in buying one of these for a fun track toy.. I'm sure the recommendation for bearings under track use are probably almost seasonal or at least every other season. NOT something I want to worry about each track day. The job looks straightforward, but a hassle .
Great video, saved me from making what I call for myself, a mistake. 😁👍
Can we talk about how clean this man's oil is. You could probably drink it.
Not sure I’ve ever received a higher compliment. Thanks 🙏
Nice job..low stress when the right guys do the job
haha lower yes...but I still held my breath when we started it for the first time. I have too much anxiety for these types of jobs on my own car
@@TedwardDrives I know the feeling, but with the right guys there is the knowledge they will make things right no matter
What many people don’t understand is “warming up properly” means starting the engine and driving easily until it warms up. NOT letting it sit there and idle for 10-15 minutes.
Yup! Get in. Start. Drive with minimal load and revs for a bit. I’m probably going to slap a heating pad on the oil pan for winter this year for those 0 degree F morning starts
Lol are you saying letting a car idle is bad for the car? 😂
Deandalapanda exactly. Cold oil is the worst thing for the car. Idling for 10-15 minutes means the oil takes much longer to warm up. Driving the car gently by keeping it under ~3,000 rpm gets the oil up to temperature much quicker, which means less wear on engine internals. The majority of engine wear occurs during cold startup so the sooner you can get the oil up to temperature, the less overall wear in the long run on the engine.
And remember that oil takes much longer to warm up than coolant. By driving the car you might get the oil up to temp in 10-15 minutes. Idling could take 30+ minutes to get the oil up to full operating temp. So you really are better off just driving the car after about 30-45 seconds of starting it.
WRONG!
With these tight bearing specifications, do not drive until engine is at full operating temperature, then only gently until other fluids come to correct operating temperatures.
Just had mine replaced at 85k and nearly all of them were showing huge amounts of copper. Drives beautifully with new engine mounts too
Which bearings did you end up going with? I'm thinking either the coated acl from lang motorsports or the classic BE's although they're considerably more expensive.
Mic Raw I went for ACL bearings with ARP bolts, bidden motor sport in the uk did it. It’s a relief knowing they’re done, plus the engine mount replacements are a must in my opinion. Feels so much smoother. I’m sure what ever you go for you’ll be fine as long as you let it warm up properly from now on
@@Faz-86 that's awesome thanks for the reply brother. I'm excited to get it done! 😁
The most balanced commentary about the bearing issue I've heard yet! :) Also a good video.
Thanks 🙏
Cheers, thanks for the video! I was eagerly waiting this one after watching a bit of the live stream. Fantastic to have someone as calm and experienced as Evan and Wile to do this work.
As I said during the stream, I had the much more rare main bearing failure on my car a couple of months ago. Completely stock and only 56k miles. These cars are magical, but having been through the experience now, I'm very lucky that it's not my only car, and that I can afford to fix it. Advice to other owners, if the engine seizes, *do not* try to get it running again. Mine unseized, but it just began to tear itself apart. If you disassemble it after it seizes, the crank and block might be saved. If you get it running again, the bearing will spin and it'll start to grind itself down.
I used to race with Jake! Top notch guy!!! I remember when he started his company...
Thats great! I remember he replaced the clutch on my M5 about 7 years ago in the garage of that house he was renting haha
My Skyline RB20DET has done 450,000kms on stock internals, I am running 24 psi boost pushing 350kw for the last 350,000km at the wheels never had the head or sump off just change the oil once a year
For my RACE SHOP, I still use my 1996 Jeep Cherokee for picking up bikes. It has 600,000 miles and the oil pan has NEVER BEEN OFF. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Good on you
Was that a Technoviolet E46 M3 in the background? Lots of collectable rides in that garage!
Tory Taglio looks like it! Favorite e46 of all time!
This is the first time I’ve ever heard of them being fractured rather than machine to fit. Very cool.
Same with the B58
Same as N54. Did mine in my garage. Heard knock as #4 was only worn one. I got lucky as hell. Rod knock as not resurfaced and no more shaving in the filter.
Dude awesome mechanics! Plain and simple it’s a rough business especially for them, with customer not understanding maintenance cost. They think it’s a simple pull and unloosen bolts. It’s so much more.
Thanks! They are great. And I was hoping this video would help to explain to owners why its a ~2500 dollar job. I would never have the courage to do this myself haha
@@TedwardDrives 2500$ to undo some bolts and stick in standard sized bearings?
@@TedwardDrives thats not bad
@@gicugigel3790 some other place would have charged way more
@@burrell2k711203 thats a 500$ job
Nice to see the process in a shop close to home, may have to call em up for some maintenance myself.
It is so important with these ///M engines to run good quality 5w-50 oil, tungsten disulfide and allow them to fully warm up before revving them out. Oil viscosity and temperature is of utmost importance for the rod bearing clearance issue.
I thought the Liqi Moly 10W60 was the best you could get so that is what I use. Why use 5w50 ?
@@Andrew4181975 redline 5w-50 has proven to be best with these engines. It’s a much better cold start viscosity than 10W. Cold 10W oil is too viscous.
hello
instead of removing all the suspension components would it not be better to just remove the 3 bolts from the top strut and drop the full leg complete with the subframe?
Thanks.
woooh glad to see a shop in mass posting up vids
this is the first video where it's mentioned that connecting rods were made in one piece and bottom part cracked. It's a vital info, very interesting
Rather common knowledge.
Yep. Even PT Cruisers have fracture split conrods
I laughed so hard at the dental plan joke
That techno violet E46 in the background!!! 😍😍😍
Best technique I"ve seen so far ! 👌👌👌
Truly great production, content, and narration
Thanks. Going to be creating a similar video for e46 rear subframe reinforcement
So once you replace the bearings does that solve the issue or do you need to keep replacing them?
Damnit ! These guys know their damn job !
Nice job lads. Great garage and full of stunning BMWs. 😉
You need wheelallignment my friend after dropping the subframe!!!!
Take Down no he don’t, they prob mark the bolts to put it exactly in the same spot..
Josefin Kjellsson iam sure you havent own any bmw ever... mark bolt and put back... yeah...
Josefin Kjellsson wow lol racist much?
No alignment needed. They removed the tie rods from the inner part which always screws in all the way. They didn't touch the adjustable part of the tie rods.
Very detailed video tutorial for installation instructions
Don't miss my e92 anytime soon.
Do a S62 M5.
Just out of curiosity, how much does a service like that cost, on average? Amazing vid, as always.
Best to budget around 2500
Nice! Video, Simplicity is important , that Mechie made it look easy lol , preventative maintenance is important 💯
Thanks for the video and great job guys I just did my rod bearings And engine mounts just for the peace of mind
Well documented. Did they use looser specifications than factory? Most techs say the S65 and S85 rod to crankshaft throw bearings impossibly tight for proper lubrication on start-up or even before the engine attains full operating temperature.
That was fun to watch :) Enjoyed the live stream too :)
"Right in the gabbage". Gotta be a days ride from NY to recognize that.
I really wanna do this myself, but I don't have a lift, and doing this in my garage is just too much.
My gosh around the crankshaft that thing looks like brand new!!!!
This shop is amazing!
Great info. Now drive it to a detail shop hahah.
The term 'I wouldn't touch one with yours' springs to mind
I got rod knock because of lack of starvation didn’t change my oil
Great video 👌 I had to do that on mine and good thing I did since she lives hard track life .
How long did they take, and how much did it cost?
I was wondering how do they do it.. I thought they have to pull up whole engine out of engine bay and take apart to a single bolt.. Smart solution. But can I have question ? You said that ARP bolts has slightly different torque specification so they have to be tighter right? So if they are tighter the gap between rod bearings and rod bearing journals will be e.g. ten thousandths of a millimeter smaller so is that mean the friction will be higher ? What is benefit to have ARP bolts rather than new OEM ones. Thank you for interesting video Ted, I really love this car. Greeting from Slovakia 🇸🇰
ARP bolts are not stretch bolts like the OE bolts...Just important to know to use the specifications assigned by the hardware and not to make any assumptions =)
The bearing change really isn't that difficult. There is a great DIY on m3post. I used BE ARP bolts when doing my swap. I previously did this on an e46 M3 using OEM bolts. The ARP bolts make the installation significantly easier due to the less complicated installation process. Using an angle gauge is a real pain when working in a tight space.
@@96maxse ^ This =)
@@TedwardDrives love the track videos. 0 experience there yet.
Мужик, как тебе повезло с тачкой, гаражем, инструментами... ну и страной проживания...
Great video, so how many hours did take. I"ve heard of dealships saying it take close to 40 hrs.
I think it’s booked as about 10
How did he replace the top half of the bearing? Thanks for the video
I believe You push the rod up, dislodge the upper bearing, push it around to drop out the bottom.
The problem isn't the rod bearings, the problem is the main bearings closest to the chain. The chain puts too much tension on the crankshaft making the main bearings closest to the chain work way harder. If you are thinking all you need to do is replace rod bearings to extend the life of your S65/S85 THINK AGAIN. You know how all these shops pull out the rod bearings and look at them on a piece of paper and say "oh yea its great we caught this in time" it's a bunch of bull. Have them take apart the engine completely down to the crankshaft and have them look at the main bearings closest to the chain, THAT'S YOUR PROBLEM! If you actually want your engine to last have them replace both your rod bearings AND your main bearings. Unfortunately you can't just drop the oil pan to replace your main bearings, you need the entire engine taken out and disassembled. BMW Quality!
proof?
@@brapinator8500 look up m539 restoration's vids on project frankfurt
@@brapinator8500 look up M539 restoration's video "103k-Mile BMW M3 S65 V8 Engine Teardown - E92 M3 - Project Frankfurt: P4" and go 40minutes in
Nice job guys from an ex BMW master tech
I enjoyed the video, thanks so much.
Got coated bearings for my Porsche 944 turbo and the clearance was TIGHT !!! Did your guy plastigauge those bearings ?
Plastigauge not that accurate on such tight bearing specifications.
Some scary stuff right there! Awesome job.
Great video man. Any issues with the car since this? Also can you ballpark how much this cost for labor and parts (mounts and bearing replacement)? Looking at getting one of these with low miles and searching for known issues.
thats the most important thing they make it look easy tho
Replace at 81,000? That's why I own Japanese cars.
good luck with your plastic interior.
@@ziadbakkich3132 but at least the plastic last. Have a honda with 264000 miles still going. No engine or trans work yet. Can your can your European cars do that?
@@jriv5040 BAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!
264k miles is nothing.
my mercedes 350 cdi has 800.000km on the clock. no major repairs. and oil changes every 30k kilometers. no one buys japenese car is europe. here in europe its german, italian, french, volvo or nothing.
@@ziadbakkich3132 ya but u doing work on a BMW at 81000
@@jriv5040 this car is made for DRIVING NOT GOING FROM POINT A TO B.
Can you please put the links up for all the parts you used please and thank you
1. What was the pink putty you used? and 2. do you wipe clean the backing of the bearings prior to dropping them in the rod? I always have to prevent the rod bearing from spinning. is it ok to allow some lub between the bearing and rod or was there a blast of carb cleaner that got edited out? lol Thanks!
Were the rod bearings replaced before or this is the first time? At what mileage?
Thanks for the video.
First time
Why would you remove the engine when this can simpy be done from under the car on jack stands or a lift?
the engine was not removed.
Great footage. Learned a lot.
Excellent video. What if the bearings are already causing rod knock? Is it too late to just replace them? Does that mean other engine components are already damaged?
There could be damage to the journal but if the bearing hasn’t spun there probably still a good chance of saving it. But inspect the crank thoroughly
Looking forward for more m3 videos
Hi there. Very good video. I have a question. What is the torque to be given to the ARP bolts? can you instruct me? Thank you so much
I love watching this
Amazing. first video i find is in MA where I'm looking.
What are the odds haha. That’s awesome
@@TedwardDrives How much was the whole service?
It should be Kinda the same on the N54 e92 no? The rod bearing issue that is.
Nice car I have the exact same on my channel with exhaust and some other mods
I think I am hearing the knocking rod sound from my engine. I have bmw323i 2010. Does that mean the engine is gone or can I replace it and it will be fine.
He didn't check the clearances in the new bearings?
I have 45k miles on my E92...I feel like my time for bearing replacement is fast approaching...
The odds are in your favor with low miles :)
I know have 56k on my 2013. My shop says I can wait till closer to 80k. I'll have them done before that though.
If you often find yourself in stop and go traffic, your bearings will wear out quicker due to the constant idle/low rpm and low oil pressure.
Nikolay Petrov running a high viscosity oil is good too
I live in Canada, and changed mine at 60 000kms and they were very similar to the bearings in the video. You might as well do it. The peace of mind alone was worth the cost of replacement. I opted for BE bearings if anobody cares, but that is an entirely different topic on its own.
I dont think you should grease the bearings. instead only apply oil. Also how did you determine if you are within the specified gaps when you replaced the bearings?
They just used standard sized bearings
Really wagged my tail on this one 🤙
Are you sure there isn’t something wrong there my guy? That is quite the excessive wear for 80k. The LS3 rods are also cracked cap rods, similar design and that type of wear is unseen unless there was an engine failure of some kind. That’s with constant spirited driving and high revving.
I didn't understand the end of the video. Di you come back for any reason?
nope just bonus footage to get a good look under the car and see more.
I've seen people drive round with con rod bearing failure. I hope they have big pockets.
Why worry about the engine every time you want to smash the gas? I get it with being a v8 and all but the n54 will our perform it on almost every metric when tuned well.
The e92 is not all about engine where as the n54/55 is.
What is the Price for Both???
so how many hours is the job and are there multiple kits to buy between or only 1 ?
How come the torque spec some people are being told should be 50ftlbs and not the recommended 45 from arp? Just noticed your shop used 45. Really curious.
The m3 community will seemingly find “better” ways to do everything but never back it up with data or proof. Not sure if this is the case here but i just stopped listening to it all. They’ll tell you the recommended oil will ruin your car 😆. It’s just silly after a while and it only gains traction because hundreds of randoms agree for no reason but that it feels good
It looks like should fill the oil filter up with oil so you don't start the engine run dry for a few seconds there's no reason this type of engine should have oil and bearing problems also they make acumulator that you can actually have oil pressure before you start the engine up may not be a bad idea for a car that cost this much money
GOOD JOB
Good job guys!!!
Hi could you please explain how to torque the original Oem rod bolts.. please please
Definitely consult a bmw service manual. Any mis step on that and it’s very bad news
Beautiful job
Brilliant job
I feel like getting an e92 m3 just so i can get the rod bearings replaced.
😂
How much did they charge you
That actually looks doable at home if you have the equipment
GMC rod bearings will last 250k miles not like this BMW at 36k?
this Bmw has 80k. nobody said 36k.
How did you determine what bearing size do that you needed do you have standard my E46 it's about reaching to 200,000 miles I'm planning on doing this next year spring between spring and summer you guys did a great video on that
Isreal Perez is it an m3? I have a 323i and I’m at 252k miles and no issues
@@FishFind3000 that's great I have 04 325xi with 199375 I wold like to do it with this car
Czemu nie wymienili głównych panewek tylko korbowodowe? Za dużo roboty?
This was dope!
How much was this at this shop?
And how much $$$ would this job run for?
Why do you guys put yourselves through all this pain & expense when far more cheaper & reliable cars are available ?
There are no "cheaper more reliable" V8 M3 available. Never made.
@@machtschnell7452 LOL yeah but you could get something else other than a BEE EM TROUBLEYOU ? I had a 2003 330Ci for 7 years, that POS is gone now & I've never been happier about getting rid of a car.
@Graeme Williams cheaper than M3: yes, more reliable than M3: yes, more engaging and luxyours than M3: HELL NO!!!
@@graemewilliams1308 haha b m trouble-u :-). yeah i test drove multiple m cars and got a mustang 5.0 performance pack instead. no engine failure lol. awesome car and tons of reliable fun. couldn't imagine a $3000 preventive maintenance haunting me on every drive.