Ysolda Knits Episode 3 - developing bust shaping for oversized garments
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2023
- A deep-dive into the fit and design process of my new pattern - the Gullane Tank
Now available on my website: ysolda.com/products/gullane-tank
and on Ravelry: www.ravelry.com/patterns/libr...
Share your project with the tag #GullaneTank
MENTIONED:
How to Swatch for a Sweater: ysolda.com/blogs/journal/how-...
Sandnes Garn Line: www.sandnes-garn.com/line
Little Red in the City ebook: ysolda.com/products/little-re...
Lifted increases:ysolda.com/blogs/journal/how-...
Taking body measurements and choosing your size: ysolda.com/blogs/journal/choo...
Cashmerette taking body measurements blog: blog.cashmerette.com/2020/10/...
Swatching in the Round: ysolda.com/blogs/journal/swat...
Ysolda Newsletter: ysolda.com/pages/subscribe
The Knitwork: www.knitwork.ysolda.com
Website: ysolda.com/
Ravelry: www.ravelry.com/people/ysolda
Instagram: / ysolda
Pinterest: www.pinterest.co.uk/ysolda/
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ABOUT US
At Ysolda we believe in the power of making, slowly and by hand, and that everyone should be able to access that magic. We aim to provide knitting and making inspiration and patterns to fuel your creativity, steady your days, and make beautiful projects. With over 15 years of blogging and designing experience, Ysolda and our team know a thing or two about knitting and craft techniques. To empower you to confidently tackle new skills, and knit the projects you dream of, we're sharing our experience in an extensive library of free tutorials that's growing all the time. ysolda.com/ - Навчання та стиль
Best tutorial out there!!!! As a sewer I understand darts. Your tutorial has finally helped me feel confident that I can make a knit sweater for a busty body without knitting a very expensive sack. Some knit designers mention short rows for larger busts but that doesn’t solve the underarm. Previously I have knitted a different size for the back that the front. Thank you for specifically referencing the difference in stretch for negative ease and positive ease garments.
You are a brilliant designer and I very much appreciate all the work you put in here! I really think this makes a difference for so many people who struggle with patterns that are made for smaller sizes. Off to buy your pattern now!
The amount of care and thoughtfulness you and your team put into customizing this fit and sizing is inspirational.
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This is almost a class in designing. Thanks so much. I love all the size inclusive care you put in your designs. 🙏
Thank you so much for the detailed explanation regarding bust size inclusion. I am a busty woman with a smaller waist. Thank you, I will now have more confidence with regards to obtaining a great fit for my garments. I loved too how you compared the paper pieces relating to sewing. Thank you Ysolda and team.
You are a genius and thank you for nerding out with us.
I confess I am a knitting nerd and the depth and detail of your explanation on the shaping features on this pattern makes me very happy. Thank you for all your work and creativity.💝
❤ the nerdy maths and all the details you provide.
Thank you for your tutorial and if you are a Nerd and love details, go you, I wish it would catch on. I will follow you anywhere since the Musselburgh Hat and the positive comments that I have had since knitting it.
It is easy to ask and expect designers to design size inclusive and judge designers who don’t. A lot of knitters maybe don’t think about how hard it is to make a design fit larger sizes well. I am not surprised it took you at least two years to get it right and appreciate all the hard work going in your pattern designs! I am learning so much from your podcast and will be knitting more of your patterns in the future not just the Musselburgh hat, which is my favorite hat!
Fascinating! Thank you so much Ysolda for sharing so generously and in-depth your design practice. This episode is very timely as I attempt to knit a man's sleeveless jumper in a very large size with no ready made pattern. Your discussion on short rows is most relevant.
I absolutely love all the deep knitting nerdiness. Totally my thing. I would love to see Gullane's English tailored shoulders brought into a fitted design with sleeves, with your innovations of arm scythe and sleeve cap. A Ravelston/Stockbridge 2.0 with the addition of English Tailored shoulders would be the pinnacle of an accessible but perfectly tailored handknit for me. I've been playing with it myself using the Stockbridge pattern and Cocoknits, but I'm not sure I have it exactly right and I'm not sure why.
Ysolda, you are a genius and we don't deserve you!!!!!! How amazing is this video and how thoroughly and clearly you explain everything! I really struggle with the whole working something 2D (knitted fabric) to construct something 3D (a garment that fits a body) thing - while I have made things with short row bust shaping, and read explanations, I could never really comprehend what was really happening and why it worked, but your explanations with the mannequin (mini-quin?) and the cardboard really helped.
Thanks for including CC , have volume turned all the way up ,
I am so impressed with all of the thought that you’ve put into designing this pattern! This is really so informative. Thank you so much for putting this discussion together for us! I’m looking forward to knitting Gullane.💗
I really appreciate the thoughtfulness of your designs. I think this would make a great vest/slip over worn with a button down shirt at work.
What an amazing episode, so much design nerdery, loved it! The thoughtfulness and love for detail and different sizing you invest is incredible, thank you for that. I'll definitely add the pattern to my (overflowing) queue. Please keep those episodes coming! Lots of love from Vienna/Austria 🖤
Thank you SO MUCH for doing the 3D physics work to really thoroughly design this to look proportionally the same across so many sizes and shapes. I'm a seamstress as well as a knitter, and I've been screaming at people about these design issues (especially in oversized garments) for busty people for years...I even got in an IG argument with a rather extremely well known knitting pattern designer who could not understand that the 10" positive ease recommended for all sizes in their boxy-fit sweater would result in sleeves beginning lower than the elbow for some knitters, and kept telling me that mega-positive ease is a personal preference issue and not a design problem when it creates bizarre or sloppy fits. I am excited to knit the Gullane and look forward to your excellent size+shape work influencing further sweater patterns to come. Here's hoping other designers will up their game as well!
Your design is so thoughtful and affirming. I love your podcast!
This is amazing Ysolda! Thanks a lot for your nerding:)) I appreciate the effort you put in designing but also sharing this giant knowledge with us in such an accessible way. I love the way you describe 3D issues, putting very simple examples and models in front of the camera.
I started knitting garments out of my frustration due to not being able to find store-bought items: (1) in quality materials, (2) that fit my body. Over the course of the time I find out that most of the patterns, despite looking awesome on pictures didn't look that well on me and/or did not work well on my body (weird pulling under armpit, neck opening stretching to the sides, while front middle was going up to my neck as I was moving, etc.). Being also pretty nerdy I found my solutions and altered majority of patterns heavily, but with the knowledge I have now, I know I was not always targeting the actual root cause of the issue, but often only symptoms, which worked out well in some designs and a bit off in other.
In the previous episode you're talking about broad shoulders and I'm wondering how this could be put together with 3D bust shaping you showed here. I love drop shoulder design, but need often a width from size designed for bust 50'+ to get any "drop" curving beyond my shoulders, with upper chest of ca 34' and mid size cups. As you mentioned shoulders width grows well slower than bust circumference, as you move between the sizes up. I think that with your explanation from today I finally see, that my attempt to decrease stitches along the (bottom part of the) sleeve opening and just below joining in the round at the armpits makes sense. It is a bit like decreases you're adding below short rows, but without the increases, since my number of stitches was generous enough due to additional shoulders' width. In the loose garments I have not been adding bust short rows, intentionally creating a dip hem (often even doing side & back short rows to expose it more).
What I found, is that many garments designed traditionally to fit men looks better on me, despite the fact I have quite visible bust, but the shoulders- chest- arms proportions are still better for me, store bought jersey stretches to my bust better than to my shoulders. I started buying T-shirts, especially long sleeves from so called "men section" and I was wondering if you could talk more about gender-specific designing through the historical/ traditional lens. I do recall my mother knitting men's pullovers in a completely different construction than women's.
Looking forward to hearing you addressing other fit challenges with your attention to detail, thank you so much for those videos!
This was an excellent episode. I appreciate the work you put into your patterns and the information you are willing to share to help us as knitters be successful. I will be checking out your patterns!!
Thank you so much, what a thoughtful and informative podcast. I really find the way you share your process very interesting .
Thanks for this very thorough fit explanation! I’ve been knitting since I was a kid, but I’ve just been learning to sew garments over the last 2 years or so. The geometry of garments and fit are so fascinating, and I don’t think I’d ever seen the ideas I’ve been learning in garment sewing (Full Bust Adjustments etc) translated into knitting. Thank you for taking the time to share all this! My LYS happens to carry Line yarn, so I picked some up this week. Gullane is next in my queue! Since I live in a hot climate (Southern California), I definitely have a couple more months to wear a lightweight top like this. Thanks again for all you do, your thoughtfulness and care are really beautiful to see.
Ysolda thank you ❤ your discussion of fit, bust considerations, measuring, and bias spoke to me and has given me the tools I need. I’m so excited to learn more. I plan to knit Gullane as a means of determining how these puzzle pieces fit together for my body. I’m planning on using wool just to minimize fabric issues and to use a material I have more experience with as I consider fit. Looking forward to your next episode
You are great. Thanks for sharing the info so generously.
Hi, this is so fascinating! I’ve taken a pause from knitting garments due to lack of time and body changes from two pregnancies! Now that I’m slowly picking it up, my goal is to knit garments that FIT! Purchased this and it will be my next project - looking forward to it!
I hope you love knitting Gullane!
Your patterns are amazing. Size inclusive and extremely accurate. I’m almost done with this knit. It’s so amazing ❤
❤❤❤ This sweater is my JAM!!! I love a v-neck and a drapey tank. I also have some linen blend that I’ve been waiting to use and this is the PERFECT pattern!! I’m so super impressed with your pattern and your excellent descriptions of not only what the pattern does but why you incorporated the design features. I am thrilled and cannot wait to finish my current knit so I can cast it on!!! I foresee this being as popular or even more so than Ranunculus ❤❤❤ Thank you so much for such a lovely knit.
❤ the new added instructions and diagrams /images to help…. Great job
I love this!
❤ Just bought the pattern (and two others) can wait to have this in my wardrobe. Love your explanation. How I would like to do an internship and pick your brain 😊. Those small mannequins, brilliant! Not sure if your patterns have this but all my others have th same stitch count on the a back as in the front. Why? The way I try to make them fit me better is readjusting the sleeves. So less stitches on my back and more in the front and knitting a smaller size. Can’t wait to see how your design will workout since you base you size on the upper bust instead of the full bust. I have your book, little red in the city, now i have to make time to read it (but then I can’t knit 😢) but not ripping back sweater saves time so… 😊 hope to hear from you a lot more. I think that your patterns need more attention. I’m hoping the knitting community can do something about that.
thank you! I think whether the front and back should have the same stitch count really depends on the cup size (and on how broad the person's back is). In general your arms are slightly forward and you need a bit more ease at the back of a garment to move comfortably, which means for smaller cup sizes it kind of balances out and the front and back being the same width works fine. For larger cup sizes it definitely works better to have more stitches at the front, but depending on shape you don't always want that extra room above and below the bust.
I can’t wait to make this! Love how fabulous the pattern features are. excellent job!
thanks so much - an interesting and informative podcast.
Wonderful
I love hearing about your design process. I looked at the Gullane projects on Rav and this tank looks great on everybody! This is how I judge a pattern. Plus, I love that it is a staple wardrobe piece. I will definitely be casting this on in the future. Thank you for the time you put into these videos!
This was all so very fascinating. I had no idea about the biasing in knitting in the round and that is something I'll keep in mind. I have recently started following Cashmerette and learning to sew for myself and I'm glad I had some of that knowledge to better understand what you were talking about. Thank you for such in depth information on your process.
I sew all my clothes and generally have to modify sewing patterns with FBAs. I always want to do the same thing to my knitted garments, thank you for doing all the hard work!!!!!
Thank you.
This is Brilliant! So glad to have this in depth look-see at all this design work that happens. I did not know the name of the shaping in the back at the shoulders! English Tayloring!!! Would it be possible to do the same in the front for increases for bust dart shaping? Maybe that would look silly....
This was so informative. Makes sense. I hope to see a longer sleeve garment with these design elements in the future. In the mean time I think I will get this pattern just to see how these events improve the fit. I have yet to knit a sweater/top that fits properly. I have tried several different techniques to modify patterns, but as a fairly new garment knitter it’s been pretty much trial an error. (Adjust chosen size, high bust or full bust, pick up extra stitches under arms, move stitches from back to front, use stitch counts for one size for back and larger size for front, short rows,….combine two or more techniques 😩🤯). Frankly it’s been a crap shoot.
Thank you for tackling this fit issue with such dedication and working it directly into your pattern for those of use that need it.
I love the idea of doing a longer sleeve garment with similar design elements!
Thank you for the though and work you put into this very informative episode. This kind of understanding is not easy to come by.
I think it's a great point about doing bust shaping at the bust vs. at the hem (that it might look more feminine to see the line of the bust dart). But I think what doing the shaping at the bust where you need it helps with is avoiding angular 'drag' or 'pull' lines from the apex of one's chest toward the side of the garment. Not putting shaping via short rows at the apex creates almost a fold of loose fabric that has nowhere to go.
I'd experiemented before with quickly increasing and then rapidly decreasing on only the front of the garment before I learned more about bust shaping, and i'm excited experiment more with increases/decreases AND short-row shaping at the same time since I do really like garments with positive ease.
Thanks so much!
I uset not to buy a lot of "straight forward" patterns as I'm a short (and over the years sturdier) person with a large bust. I always had to do a lot of adjustments and the patterns still didn't turn out just right for me very often. I really appreciate the amount of thoughts you have put in this top! And sharing that information really helps to choose the right couple of adjustments. Maybe you can give us that same amount on sharing regarding to circular yokes? I always have problems when the short row shaping for rising the back is put under the yoke. It creates a strange blobb on the back...
Very informative, thank you.
“nerdy math details” I am listening!
Watching your video, I'm now wondering if this additional (brilliant!) shaping you've invented for Gullane will address what I have often experienced when adding short row bust darts: I get this sort of 'bubble' effect underneath the short rows over my tummy, which makes the bottom hem left up from my pants in a tent like fashion (wish I could send a picture to show this - hope my description is clear enough). Anyway, bought the pattern and I guess we'll find out ☺ Thanks for the thorough explanation and visual aids via cardboard. Super clear!
it might! It could also be that the dart is too low for your body, or that you need some waist shaping below the bust (which there are various ways to achieve depending on the fit / style you want)
Super interesting and helpful and I love the crossover discussion into sewing. Does adding a column of purls along the sides help with biasing? Several of isabel kraemer patterns have that detail and I always wondered if it's really doing anything. I like the look but wasn't sure if it actually adds scaffolding 😊. Thanks!!
There are several ways of adding a "faux" seam to seamless sweaters and it can be a lovely detail, but no - it won't add structure. Karen Templer did an interesting blog post on making a seamless raglan with an extra stitch at each "seam", which was then folded and the stitches on either side were seamed together at the end. Doing that would add structure, but wouldn't help specifically with biasing because you're still knitting in a spiral rather than a zig zag. That basically means that all of your stitches will lean slightly in the same direction, but again, this isn't a problem with a majority of yarns.
Its so lovely to see your wonderful podcast and to hear how much thought went into your new design. Thank you. I have a question. I have purchased Gullane and looked at the chart and am trying to decide a size. My upper bust is 106.5 cm which puts me at around size six but.this means all the cup sizes will be at negative ease which concerms me with plant fiber (my full bust 122 cm). Does this mean i go up to a size seven (23 cm positive ease at upper bust) with a c/d cup or do i do size six and try to adjust the g/h cup to fit? I prefer a fit that just skims my body and is a bit firmer at bust.
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Hi there am in edinburgh well usually at the moment in Eyemouth
I'm in the process of knitting my first garment--a Gullane in 5G-H. (Shawls are my forte.). I chose this pattern because of the V neck and the bust shaping. I'm curious about the dart/shaping placement. Looking at one of the test knits (BonzaSonza's Silver Gullane), she indicates that the "dart" on her is below her bust, rather than at the apex. (I'm also 5'2" tall.). Is that where it should be? I have just joined for knitting in the round (my next Gullane will be knit flat for comparison).
Being new to this, I'm going to follow the pattern, but I welcome your thoughts. Thanks.
Great discussion about bust shaping. What is the name of the pattern used in the afghan/throw behind you?
Thanks! It's the Nectar Blanket knit in a worsted / aran weight yarn. You can find the pattern here: ysolda.com/products/nectar-blanket
What thorough and thoughtful pattern...thank you. I do have a question: I don't prefer deep V-necks, is there a recommendation in how to make shallower.
Oh, I see, the neck ribbing can be deeper to make a shallower V-neck.
Yes, you could do that, or you could adjust the shaping for the opening so that you’re increasing more frequently. You’d then join the 2 sides of the front together higher up.