Is Your Bust Dart in the Right Spot?
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- This week on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm going to show you how to get your bust dart in the right place. If the position of the bust dart on your pattern does not agree with where your bust is, chances are you'll end up with excess fabric where you don't need it and a snug fit at the fullest part of your bust (AKA the Apex). We'll also take a look at the length of your bust dart to make sure the tip of the dart is positioned the right distance from the apex of your bust.
00:00 Intro
01:33 Supplies Needed for this tutorial
03:45 Wrinkles caused by a bust dart that is too high
04:54 How to determine where the bust dart should be positioned vertically
07:36 Move the bust dart down to agree with the position of your bust
10:26 Is your dart too long or too short?
12:38 How to adjust the length of your dart
13:54 Enter to win a Cool Stitches Subscription Box by Wednesday 3/23/22
14:58 Outro
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Very helpful! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This was so helpful!! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This is SO helpful, thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
This was really helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Another fantastic tutorial! ♥️
Thank you! 😊
Great info. Thanks very much. Cheers Mary
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial!!
Glad you liked it! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you for sharing . Have been searching for someone that knew
My pleasure, I'm so happy you found me... Thanks for fitting along with me
You are an excellent teacher thank you!
Thank you so much! ...and thanks for following along with me
Excellent Information! Thank you so much for all your help
You are so welcome! I'm happy to hear this helps you, thanks for fitting along with me
Great information! Congratulations on 25k subscribers!
Thanks… couldn’t have gotten there without you!
Thank, Jan. Bust darts have always made me crazy. Thanks for your great explanation!
You are so welcome! Keep me posted if you need more help!
I’m trying this today! 🙏🏼🌷
So happy to hear... thanks for fitting along with me!
Great tutorial.
Glad you liked it! Happy New Year!
Some great tips especially on backing off the dart for a fuller cup size. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me
Very helpful. Thank you ❤
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great instruction. For anyone wondering where the apex is, it’s code for nipple
:) Thanks for watching
Always relevant!
Thanks so much! and thank you for watching
Thank you for going in depth with a large bust dart. I've sewn 8 tops that still do not fit me. My friends and family are thrilled but I have not been. I've been worrying too much about how big the dart needed to be. May be silly but nobody else's darts seem to be that big. But... I get now. I hope. I'm going to give it another try, put aside my doubts and just do it. I can't say thank you enough!! I really would like to sew just for me !! Lol. Have a great day!!
So happy this helped! ...Maybe you'd like to join our Basic Bodice Draft-Along. Even if you don't draft a bodice, you can see what a pattern looks like if your measurements are not agreeing with "Standard" measurements. :) Here's a link to Part 1... Part 2 is Live tomorrow at 1:00 pm edt
ua-cam.com/video/uHW2SXvOo74/v-deo.html
Your video is timely for me! I've been working on fitting my daughter with a button front blouse. She's never been able to purchase one that fits properly due to her large bust size. I've done a FBA for the first time and a few muslins. Still I'm struggling with the fit so will use your tips to analyze more. Thanks Jen !
Glad I could help! Keep me posted if you need more!
Thank you for this very clear explanation of how to move bust darts. I struggle with patterns which have them - to be honest I prefer waist darts as they generally give me less grief - but I will certainly give this modification a try.
:) Waist darts or Princess seams can be easier to work with!
Oh this was super helpful! Thank You for a great tutorial - now I am "Happy Snappy" too!
Just subscribed.
Greetings from Israel.
So happy you found me... all the way from Israel! Thank you for fitting along with me~
I like the shirt you’re wearing in this video. Do you offer a pattern for it (and maybe even sew-along?🙏) I’m new to sewing and LOVE your videos! They are so incredibly helpful!!
Thank you!🤗👏🏻
Thanks so much! Good news, when I launched the Raglan Sleeve Top, I did a free class showing how to sew it! Here's the link to the first video in the series ua-cam.com/video/m2HMpzdgDHs/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. I have been watching a lot of tutorials and I noticed some draw a straight line on the bust line for the top line of the dart , effectively the side dart is perpendicular to the apex and some tutorials slope upwards to the apex. Super confused about that. Thank you.
Bust darts can be positioned at any angle along the edge of the bodice... They can also come from other edges besides the side seams... They can start at the front armhole, shoulder, neckline or waistline edges. I'll put this topic on my upcoming tutorial list. Thanks for watching
Since I have a large bust I lower the complete front. I draw a horizontal line Completely across the front starting about one and a half inches below the arm hole. And I lower it by how much I need to lower the bust. Many women with a large bust, the top is going to pull up in front and just lowering the side dart will not change that so I lower the complete bust for it. I hope that made sense. I can see where just moving the dark would be of help if it was just the dart in the wrong place but if the bus Apex is in the wrong place that would be a bit different. I also like how you measured from the side seam to the Apex to get the other positioning line. I measure from Apex to Apex and then measure half of that from the center front to get the vertical line. This is a much needed video. I see so many people complaining about wrinkles under their arm. Others tell them to cut away the arm hole. Where if they just put their Apex where it belongs that would give their bust more room and do away with those wrinkles.
:) ua-cam.com/video/tJ5Lu_ihwuA/v-deo.html
This is great information for large busted women. I am a DD cup and when I sew my bust dart it is always huge! The amount of fabric that is taken up into the dart is way more than I want to just press to one side. Do you have any tips on how to handle the added fabric in a larger dart. Can I serge it? This would be a tutorial that I would find helpful if you have one, please advise. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge on fitting. I have found it very helpful. So glad I found your videos
I'm so happy you found me too! You can serge off the excess dart intake after sewing the dart on your sewing machine. I would mark a 3/8" allowance along the stitched dart... trim along the line and then clean finish with a narrow three-thread stitch on your serger. Another thing that can help shape large cup size darts is to curve the dart legs a little bit. This actually reduces the amount of fabric in the dart intake slightly. Here's a link to this tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/QMP_HOpLKK4/v-deo.html Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
Can a bust dart successfully be adjusted after a garment is completed? I have a few items I have made prior to realizing I need to start lowering the darts by 3/4" to 1". Now that I know the darts are too high, it's what I notice when I wear the tops. I love to sew but it can be very frustrating. Your videos sure help. Thank you.
You can try to take out the dart... but the first issue is that on some fabrics, the holes left by the needle will not completely close up...especially at the tip of the dart. If the holes steam out with your iron, you can try to reposition the dart lower. You may have to sew the side seams back together using a little larger seam allowance if the edges don't match up where the new dart is positioned. So, make sure you have a little extra ease through the bust before trying this. Hope this helps!
When I lower mine I lower the complete top front from side seam to side seam 1 inch below the armhole. Many larger busted
I would have never thought of this...I am going to try it next time. It would be extremely helpful when the pattern also has a fish-eye dart since both darts need to be moved.
Keep me posted if you need help!
I saw your video and was impressed with the detail instructions. My question is I have had breast surgery and one of my breast hangs about an inch lower than my other one and I can’t wear padded or under wire bras so how should I do my bust darts? Should I make them different or go with the lower one or the higher one? Hope you can help me please
Thanks! That's a great question. If you make one dart an inch lower than the other, it may call attention to the asymmetry. Alternatively, you can make the lower dart 1/2" lower and the other 1/2" higher so the different is less left to right. I would make a muslin and test which option is more flattering. Also, the fabric you're going to use matters... If you're working with a print fabric, the darts will "disappear" into the fabric... so you can get away with a 1" difference. If you're working with a solid colored fabric the position of the darts will be more noticeable. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great tutorial. I am confused when you say you lower the position of your dart an 1 1/2” below the apex? Can you clarify, please.
That's a great question!! And actually the amount you would lower to dart below your apex depends on your cup size. I have a generous G-Cup, so I like my bust dart about 1 1/4 -1 1/2 below my apex. This amount gets smaller for smaller cup sizes. A-C can be 1/2" - 3/4" away... D+ Cup sizes can be 1" + away from the apex. (You want the bust dart to release before the fullest part of your bust). Hope this helps!
Thank you. I wish I'd watched before cutting fabric today. My question is a duplicate; how to move a dart after the piece has been cut? And how to deal with darts when drafting a larger size. Bust darts are always too high for me. I traded a top up 1 size, which basically added 1" to the height of the shoulder & to the side seams. I didn't move the dart, all sizes had it at the same line.
"graded" not "traded"
My guess is that you may need to grade the top from the armhole down... not up through the shoulders and neckline. If you've already cut out your top, you can try pinning the dart in a little lower along the side seam... This is tricky because the fabric at the raw edges may not line up right, causing you to need a bigger seam allowance to catch it all in the seam. ...Hope this helps! Jen
Thank you! At last an explanation that makes sense. But my pattern has a curved side seam. How does that work? Also, I went away to the second part of the video and I would add 4 cm for the FBA - and it didn’t move my dart. Is that okay?
If your pattern has a curved side seam, make sure to ease the extra length into the back side seam at bust level (if there is extra ease along the front side seam). You can do a FBA and NOT move the bust dart if the bust dart is already positioned about 1" below the fullest part of your bust. Hope this helps!
@@JSternDesigns Thanks!
Congrats on reaching 25,000. I really enjoy your teaching. Am I right in assuming you take all bust measurements with bra on? Also, I did a FBA today and sewed it up and I’m getting a little excess fabric just beyond my dart point. It’s never happened before. I sew from side to apex right off fabric then knot thread ends together. I’m a DD and stop the dart abouttwo inches from apex. It’s not a huge amount of fabric but I thought it should be smoother. Maybe I’m being too fussy? Any suggestions ?
Thanks! Yes, wear the bra you are going to wear under your top to take measurements (bust measurements can really vary depending on which bra you wear... so maybe take measurements while wearing a few different bras then go with the average measurement.) It could be that the FBA you did created a little too big of a cup shape. Also, try curving your dart legs a little bit (so they curve inward toward the center of the dart) this will help taper the dart before you get to the tip of it... and it makes a contoured shape over your bust. Hope this helps!
I would start by checking that the dart is pointing to my actual apex. If it is, I would try letting the dart out a smidge to see if I went too large on my FBA. If that doesn't work, I might try splitting my dart into a waist dart and a side seam dart (too much fullness incorporated into a single dart can sometimes be difficult to manage depending on the fabric used). The excess fabric could also be caused by not following the grainline on your pattern which can definitely cause your darts to pucker. You're not being too fussy. It's taken me 3 paper drafts, 4 muslins and I am still not satisfied. I plan to do another muslin soon to just get a basic bodice block for myself that I can confidently use to pattern draft anything. Every body is unique and your body deserves the respect you're giving it by taking the time and effort to create a great bodice.
Hi, could you tell me how to work out how to find out what width of the bust dart needs to be on the side seam? Sue
Hi Sue, That's a great question!! I'm adding it to my short list of upcoming Subscriber Q & A Lives! Stay tuned and thanks for fitting along with me
How do I follow you on your Friday chat live on the bodis patten
Hi Sarie! If you visit my channel here on UA-cam, there's a little bell icon you can click to be notified anytime I release a video or go live. Fab Fit Friday usually starts each week at 1 pm EDT!
Do you have an "order" for fitting? I always fit the dart first but you mentioned doing fitting "higher up" first, like at the shoulders, etc. My biggest upper body fits are lowering the dart, removing gaping from the upper bust, and narrowing the shoulder. Should I be starting at the shoulder and "moving down?" It makes sense to do it that way, but do you have a sequence or order you recommend? Honestly I've had to refit muslins at times when I fit the dart first, it ends up slightly off? Thanks for all your amazing techniques!
If you have a bunch of things you need to adjust, make a list and then order them like this: First get every key area in the right place vertically. (for example, get the bust dart, waist and hip/hem in the right place by raising or lowering it. You may also need to lengthen or shorten the armhole if you have excess vertical length above your bust. Then start with the shoulders and neckline to get your shirt to hang properly. Finally you can adjust for body specific things like high round back or sway back and the ease if needed. The trick is that everything you adjust can affect other parts of the pattern, so getting it correct vertically first will show you more clearly how you have to adjust them for ease and body specific things. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thanks! That is so helpful. I love your channel!
Are busy side darts supposed to point directly at the apex or angle up to the apex please
That's a great question! A bust dart can be parallel to the floor, positioned slightly below the apex. Or it can angle up toward the apex.. with the tip of the dart positioned slightly below the apex... French dart is a bust dart that's angled up from lower along the side seam! Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
I have questions. What about darts that come down from the shoulder to the apex? Still back it away from the point by the same amount (depending upon your bust size)? Also, what about French Darts? How do you get those to lay in the right place?
That's a great questions... and a little more involved for me to answer here... I'm put your question(s) on my list of upcoming tutorials ...Thanks for fitting along with me, stay tuned!
@JSternDesigns thank you! I'm also trying to learn more about convex and concave darts. I saw a girl do a French dart that was almost an S curve and the fit was amazing but I cannot figure out how she did it. You're always so helpful and knowledgeable- thank you!
I love the way you explain things! I have lost a lot of weight, and I am trying to adjust my patterns. I have to make it a little easier on myself because I have a vision impairment. My current shirts already have a bust dart, how do I make the shirt pattern smaller when my bust dart is on it? I hope you understand my question. Thank you so much greetings from Amsterdam, the Netherlands.
Thanks so much! I think i would pin out the excess cup ease first, then do a small bust adjustment. Then you can take the side seams in & you may have to take up some excess vertical length too. I think you can pin all of that out of one of your existing shirts, transfer the adjustments to the paper pattern and make a new fit muslin to fine tune the fit. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Hallo! Das Video ist super ,obwohl mein englisch nicht so gut ist .Dankeschön, meine Frage ist könntest du bitte vielleicht einen grundschnitt für Grösse 40/42 mit grosser oberweite zeigen mit abnäher . Ich habe einige grundschnitt mir hier bei you Tube abgeschaut, leider sitzen und passen die Sachen nicht wenn ich es genau so gemacht habe. Du würdest mir sehr helfen. Liebe Grüße aus Germany tina
Hallo Tina, hier ist eine zweiteilige Serie, die zeigt, wie man allgemeine Passformanpassungen an einem Hemdmuster mit Brustabnähern vornimmt. Hoffe es hilft dir! ua-cam.com/video/329lXPqe5cc/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns Thank you very much.
FYI that we don't all love hearing long lists of needed tools. For many of us, it's overkill to mention things like pens, rulers and tape. I like it if something unusual is mentioned while you are using it. You can put a link to that item in the description if it is not easy to find.
So sorry about that... I was mentioning supplies because some of my subscribers asked me to let them know what they would need to work along with me... I guess I can't make everyone happy Thank you for watching
Julie, please! I know life can be stressful and we feel there are times we have to vent but please! You’re stressing over a verbal itemization of tools one might need here. So are you saying that you are so experienced that you can’t remember the days of long ago when you were a sewing neophyte and needed such guidance? Or maybe you were so advanced from the very beginning that…well for you, that day never existed? Well Julie we’re sorry to tell you that that you’re not alone in this sewing world 😢and we who aren’t up to your skill set humbly bow at your feet and request that you please put up with us just a little longer as we try our best to ascend to your sewing heights…😊😂 woman please!
FYI you can easily skip it. A creator doesn’t need to cater to your personal preferences. Unless you’re someone’s boss, don’t tell them how to do their job. It’s rude
I agree. I like your tutorials the way they were before you started adding the long tools list at the beginning. I want to see what you’re doing first… And then if I want to do it I want to know what tools I need… If it’s something different as another comment mentioned. Please don’t change! There are too many chatty videos out there already!
Hey Miss Condescending Bossy Big Boots with a full sewing studio 📣 Some of us are beginners. If you don’t need a list, just fast forward.