No Dart Full Bust Adjustments 101
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- In-depth tutorial for No-Dart Full Bust Adjustments, including how to pick the right size for your FBA and use the right fabric for your sewing.
I break down the pattern drafting process in a simple, approachable way by identifying how to spot the need for an FBA and how to fix it. This video is designed to help people out with a C-cup or more who want their t-shirts and knit pieces to fit better!
Video Chapters:
00:00 - What to Expect
00:23 - How to Tell you Need a Full Bust Adjustment
01:55 - Analysing your Knit Fabric
05:12 - Picking your Size from the Pattern Chart
09:36 - Regular Full Bust Adjustment
18:43 - Regular FBA to No Dart FBA
26:58 - Walking and Matching the Front and Back pattern pieces
30:30 - Completed Adjustments
What I'm Wearing
B/W Striped Knit Dress (Anthropologie)
Charm Patterns Cinch It Dress made with Minerva Fabrics Cat print , adjusted to a top.
Resources
Dot Grid Pattern Paper - amzn.to/3L0CFJR (Amazon Affiliate link)
Why and How to Walk a Sewing Pattern - • How to Walk a Sewing P...
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🧵 About this channel
This channel is all about learning to sew without cutting corners and feeling confident in your handmade clothing.
Whether sewing vintage clothing or something more modern, everyone should feel empowered to create their own garments and feel great in them. - Навчання та стиль
Please be sure to check out the UPDATED timestamps, which differ than the slide in the video! As always, feel free to leave comments or questions down below :)
Video Chapters:
00:00 - What to Expect
00:23 - How to Tell you Need a Full Bust Adjustment
01:55 - Analysing your Knit Fabric
05:12 - Picking your Size from the Pattern Chart
09:36 - Regular Full Bust Adjustment
18:43 - Regular FBA to No Dart FBA
26:58 - Walking and Matching the Front and Back pattern pieces
30:30 - Completed Adjustments
So happy you released a new video!
I'm a bra size 30J, so FBAs are part of my life. Anything that fits in the bust is gigantic in the shoulder and upper chest, and large at the waist. [I am not plus size.]
Doing Bianca's FBA is a lot of work, and often is necessary to get a good fit. But sometimes you can cheat a little.
- First, if you're using a pattern, measure the pattern pieces themselves. Especially with the Big 4 companies, I find they add so much ease I need to start with a much smaller size than I thought.
- If the envelope doesn't list a high bust measurement, you can pull one from the pattern, measuring across the the bottom of the armscye. Or just use the standard bust measurement, it's pretty close (for a B cup).
- If a perfect fit isn't necessary, but you do need a bit more room, you can draw a slightly wider line at the side seam in the bust area, and ease the side seams when you sew. I wouldn't go more than 1/2" or so, but sometimes even for a large bust, this is enough. Definitely test this one, to make sure your fabric will ease invisibly.
- You can also re-draw the hem in front for extra length between the bust points, tapering back to the normal side seams.
As a plus size I love your videos, so knowledgeable and helpful. Glad to see you in my feed.
So happy to hear that! Many more FBA and related videos coming soon!
Sooo happy to have you back on youtube! Hope you won't disappear again.
Will do my best! Thinking of trying to put out videos in “seasons” to avoid the burn out! Thank you for sticking around- it means a lot to us ❤️
One of my motivations for beginning sewing was that I wanted well fitted and good quality garments without breaking the bank (not that sewing is cheap, but you get a lot more quality for the money comparatively). As a short and big busted girl a lot of store bought clothing just doesn’t fit nicely. Shoulders are too wide, arms too long, chest too tight etc. etc. so finding your channel has been so helpful. I had never heard of a full bust adjustment before finding your channel, and I would never have thought about doing a full bust adjustment for a knit T-shirt without this video.
So thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us!
Bianca it's lovely to see you back ,i have missed you xxx
Your explanation and walk-through were FABULOUS! I watched so many similar videos this weekend and yours was the most helpful. I've been sewing for 30+ years and this is such a great tutorial, even for an experienced sewist. Thank you so much for making.
This almost has me willing to just keep the stretched fabric and call it ‘a look’.😅. I’ll have try it though because don’t like the folds at the underarm or armsyce. I’m a G cup. Gotta learn this! Thank you for the information.
Brilliant! So helpful, really enjoy your presenting style.
Thank you so much for watching! Still trying to hone it in and be more concise haha!
Bianca! What a lovely surprise to see you pop onto my subscription list again. Great video...that pulling/gapping at the armpit is SO annoying. Will definitely be coming back to this video...once I get back into my sewing room...it's become a bit of a catch-all mess of a space. But some day!
This was the best FBA I’ve ever seen. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful! I tried to make it as helpful as possible :D
You are clever! Craftsmanship 👏👏👏😊
Thank you Bianca! Your videos are always so helpful, and packed with useful information! 😃
New subscriber. Thanks so much for your tutorials
Always glad to see a video from you 😍🤩😊This is a great and very useful video!👍
So glad you liked it! Jose and I had a lot of fun shooting this one!
I have always loved your videos, thank you? Will you be doing more videos soon?
Yes of course! New video went out today- hope you like it!
I might try this for my next sweater that I knit and creating the length at the bottom with short rows, instead of making a dart with short rows over the bust.
Thank you so much for making this video! I did the FBA on a knit pattern for someone and it fits beautifully across the chest and armhole! Now I'm having a bit of trouble there is excess fabric centre front below the bust, but when I pinch it out at the side it ruins my FBA!! Any advice? Would I be better off not pivoting the dart down and instead blend at the sides?
Thank you for this. Can I ask something.. on the before and after example near the beginning, the white shirt looks way better without the lines, but it looks as if there is some stretching from the armhole, is an adjustment on that a thing too, like maybe raising the armhole a bit to also give extra room in the bust that way ? .. more of a tailored fit to a person's body ?
Thank you for showing this! I always have a problem that the back piece is to long, creating a horizontal crease in the back above the waist. How can you make a dart to get this crease out? I guess it is because the front piece has to be longer in order to fit the bust. Has anyone got the same problem?
Thanks for this video. What criteria did you use to pick a size 16? Thanks!
When I follow these steps, my bodice comes out almost the same size as my non-FBA version. I feel like starting from the corner of the armscye/sideseam removes all that space we added to the bust, but maybe I'm doing something wrong...
❤
I wish you would use an contrasting color between your work surface and the pattern. It's difficult for my old eyes to mae out exactly what you've done. I'm very interested to see this particular adjustment.
Thanks for the feedback! Will take that into account for my next desk purchase :)
Why do you say the closes pattern measurement to you is 16 when your bust is 45 inches and the pattern size 16 the bust is only 41 inches? Wouldn't 43 inches be the closest measurement to you? By the way, I love your video, It's great to get sewing tips from my full-busted sista. I've just subscribed, I know I'll learn a lot here.
The high bust measurement perhaps is close to 41? Myself I am 38d and use size 18 on commercial patterns making a 2” adjustment in total (1” on each side). She may be using a woven pattern and compensating for stretch of knit. That is why I use “for knits” only patterns.
I’m a bit lost and hoping I can get just a quick answer - hopefully I’m not simplifying it too much. My measurements are all over the place - I’m often several sizes different in hips, waist and bust. My high bust is 38, my full bust is 48, my waist 32 for example. I’m trying to learn more about FBAs, and I just want a clarifying tip…
Do I pick the size to cut out (to then make my FBA to) according to my HB all the time? Do I do the calculations for stretch before or after? Like, do I have to calculate the finished stretched size, and then pick the size closest to my HB after that calculating, or do I just go with the bust measurement on the envelope closest to my HB?
Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Why not hinge the dart out from the bottom to the point where the sides meet at the armscye, snd take the dart out internally? Then, you have kept the side seam.
Hmph... could work! If you give it a shot, please leave a comment in this thread so we can see how it worked out! Always looking for new ways to do things!
Question. Can you not use the back as a template to draw the side in place on the front?
Great question! Definitely something to reference, but I wouldn't use it as a guide 100%. Sometimes the front and back have curves which are drafted differently, but when eased together in the sewing process, line up (for example, the front piece may be more curvy than the back based on the cut of the garment.) So it might be a good general guideline, but may not always work 100% of the time.
I love this idea. But would you be able to just hinge the side seam across to the new width of the bottom so that you don’t actually have to redraw the side seam?
Good question! Hinging the side seam could work... but the side seam would still be "off" from where the dart was closed at the side. So while it would shortcut part of the side seam, the rest of it would still need to be redrawn, I think. If you give it a shot, please reply to this thread- would love to find out how it works out for you!
This was confusing to me !
difficult to see.